How to connect 3 switches to 2 chandeliers. Various ways to connect a chandelier to a switch. Connecting a chandelier to a switch block with a socket

As a rule, the installation of a chandelier itself does not cause any special difficulties for anyone - it is good that there are more than enough various devices for mounting it. But the question of how to connect it to a dual switch baffles many. We will tell you how to do it yourself, without the help of a professional electrician.

First we need to decide how many and which lamps we want to turn on with one or the second key. There are few options here. One key turns on one lamp, and the second - two at once. But what (left or right) key that will turn on is very important (or convenient) for some.

Ceiling

As a rule, 3 (or a three-wire wire) hang from the ceiling. In houses new building There can be 4 wires. One is the “ground”, according to the European standard. It is dyed in yellow, and along it is a green stripe. The rest are checked by the indicator. You need to find a wire on which there is no voltage. This is zero. The rest is a phase. This is done with the keys in the "on" position.

Chandelier

Wires also come out of the chandelier. If there is a ground wire on the ceiling, then the yellow-green ones can be safely connected. In modern models of chandeliers, all connections are made “inside” the chandelier, only the wires from each light bulb go out to the “phase”, and one wire is their common zero. Moreover, inside the chandelier, the connection of the phase wires of some lamps has already been made. For models with 3 lamps, two are already connected and will turn on at the same time. In other words, the manufacturer decided for us how the chandelier should be turned on.

So, 3 wires come out of the chandelier ("earth" does not count). We connect the zero of the "chandelier" with the zero of the "ceiling". Everything is clear here. Now the phases. Each of the phase wires of the "ceiling" goes to the switch. We installed with two keys. Accordingly, we connect the wires of the phases of the chandelier and the switch.

Then we check. If there is a desire to make sure that the right key turns on those lamps (or a lamp) that the left one now turns on, then the wires need to be swapped - nothing complicated. And when you turn on both keys at the same time, all the lamps will light up at once.

A warning:

In any case, regardless of the color of the wires, they should be checked for voltage. Especially yellow-green. During installation, electricians could make a mistake, so control is required. The connection of wires is done with the circuit breaker turned off.

Before connecting the wires from the chandelier to without fail you need to read the manufacturer's instructions and see. It is different, as is the number of wires coming out of the chandelier.

Now it is rare to see a light bulb hanging from the ceiling alone. Everyone wants to live in a beautiful environment and, in an effort to decorate their home, they acquire multi-track chic chandeliers. But here's the problem - you have to pay more for electricity!

But this happens only for those owners who choose such chandeliers incorrectly or connect them to a single-key switch, and in this case all the lamps turn on at once at the same time.

A competent and thrifty owner will make right choice and connect the chandelier to two-key switch so that you can turn on one lamp or several or all at once, if the case requires it.

Chandelier selection.

If only two wires come out of the chandelier you have chosen, then such a chandelier is usually connected to a single-gang switch. Although you can remake it yourself for a two-key one.

If three wires come out of the chandelier, then this is what you need.

There is also a third option - this is when a lot of wires come out of the chandelier, connected in pairs. This is also your option.

What is the difference between the second and third options?

In the third option, each pair of wires is connected to a separate lamp, which gives you the opportunity to create combinations for switching on lamps yourself. In the second option, the choice is small - usually either one lamp or several or all at once are turned on here, depending on which scheme the chandelier manufacturer has assembled.

The second condition for the possibility of connecting a chandelier to a two-gang switch is the presence of three wires suitable both for the switch and coming out of the ceiling. There are still cases when a cable with four wires comes out to the place of suspension of the chandelier. One of them is usually yellow-green (this is grounding) and such cables are laid in new-built houses. It happens that in the chandeliers there is a wire of the same color - these wires must be connected to each other. If there is no fourth wire in the chandelier, then simply insulate it with electrical tape in the supply cable.

If suddenly in your house it turned out that only two wires ("phase" and "zero") fit the chandelier's suspension point, and you still want to connect the chandelier to a two-gang switch, then this is also possible, only then you will have to do it yourself in some way bring another wire there or replace the existing wiring with a three-core cable.

So, we checked the wiring, decided on the choice of the chandelier - it's time to start installation.

For work you will need:

3-core cable;

ordinary screwdriver;

indicator screwdriver;

pliers or side cutters;

insulating tape;

Installation and connection.

To start with indicator screwdriver identify and mark the phase conductor suitable for the circuit breaker. To do this, we touch the bare ends of the wires in turn. The light in the indicator lights up - therefore, this is a phase and this wire must be connected to the corresponding contact of the switch. A three-gang switch will always have three contacts - one common, to which the phase is connected, and two others, from which the voltage will be transmitted directly to the chandelier through the mounting box.

Now we need to move on to determining the phase wire on the ceiling. To do this, turn on both keys of the switch, alternately touch the bare ends of the wires with an indicator screwdriver: the indicator lights up - it means the phase, if it does not light up, then "zero". At correct installation there should be two phases and one "zero".

Mark in some way where the phases are and where is "zero" and you can go directly to connecting the chandelier.

Collect all wires of the same color coming out of the chandelier into one bundle and connect to "zero", and you can group the remaining wires with each other as you wish, depending on the switching scheme you have chosen and connect these groups to phase wires.

Insulate all twisting points with electrical tape. If desired, they can be pre-soldered for a more reliable contact.

To avoid some connection errors, watch this video.

VERY IMPORTANT ADDITION!!!

When wiring NECESSARILY turn off the voltage.

It can be turned on in compliance with all measures of protection against electric shock only when determining the phase wires and during the final check of the installation.

When buying a new lamp, few people think about how to connect the chandelier, how many drives are there and what kind of switch is needed? In the store, the seller gave recommendations on how to care for the lighting fixture, read the manufacturer's advertisement by heart, and on this the purchase is considered complete. But, having come home, unpacked lighting fixture, wires of different colors are detected. How to be? What to do?

After all, the store said that only two lamps can be turned on in the chandelier, and not all five, and it is connected to a single-gang switch. This article covers all connection options, as well as security measures.

Safety

Before you start connecting the chandelier to the mains, install the switch, you need to familiarize yourself with the safety precautions in working with electricity. To do this, you do not need to study the Talmuds of "physics on electricity", you should familiarize yourself with the rules:

In all used tools for working with electrical appliances, as well as for electrical wiring, the handles are insulated.
To carry out work, the electricity in the entire room is turned off on the panel. To do this, turn off the light switch is not enough. It is required to turn off the plugs on the electrical panel (meter in a private house), but if there are no buttons there, the plugs are unscrewed.
The switch for the lamp is installed in the break of the "phase" wire.

If you follow these rules, then nothing will threaten life.

Checking wires with an indicator

How to recognize wires?

All wires are available in several colors. This greatly facilitates the work of an electrician, and gives a hint to a beginner.

Common Standard:

Grounding - yellow wire with a light green stripe (ground).

Attention! It is not used to connect electrical devices. This is only grounding (so that during the operation of the electrical appliance, the current does not pierce with “small trembling”).

Blue (blue) wire - zero.
Phase colors are colors other than those listed.

In houses and apartments with old wiring, all cables are the same, there was no grounding. To determine the type, you should make a call.

What threatens to swap the phase and zero?

There is an opinion from people who consider themselves professionals (I installed 1 socket in the house) that when installing the switch, there is no difference in connecting the wires, because electricity does not enter the lamp through open contacts. This is not true. You should know exactly what is the phase, and which wire goes "zero". With a broken zero electricity is not supplied, but there is phase current in all cables. What threatens to defeat a person with electric current. Otherwise, fluorescent lighting fixtures, as well as economy lamps, flicker or dimly shine with phase current.

How to connect wires?

Twisting is a very laborious business. If it is done incorrectly, a remake is made. Therefore, you should do it correctly, as well as firmly isolate it. If there are a lot of such twists, and there is a lot of voltage in the network or poor contact of the connection is heated, then the electrical tape may burn out soon, which will lead to a short circuit. Therefore, when twisting the wires, it is necessary to press them well and insulate them.

Terminal blocks are now used. They have proven themselves as fire-fighting elements. With their help, four or more twists are connected. One of them is WAGO. No tools are required for connection, installation takes place in a short time. To begin with, the levers open, insert the wires there and close the lever. In this case, the connection will be reliable, fireproof. The purchased new chandelier is disassembled, the quality of the blocks and screws is checked. If necessary, the screws must be well tightened. Especially if the chandelier is made in China.

Terminal blocks are the most convenient to use

Required tool for mounting the chandelier

In order to connect the chandelier to the wires on the ceiling, you will need tools:

Three different screwdrivers: flat-end, curly, indicator.
Side cutter and pliers.
Knife - must be sharpened.
Voltmeter.
Insulating tape.

A knife is required to expose a single-core wire, because pliers will damage or break the core itself. The exposure is done with a sharp knife blade in the same way as a pencil is sharpened. If burrs remain - this does not threaten anything.

The indicator is needed to find the phase. In such a screwdriver, the tip is made for tightening screws. You do not need to do this, because it is impractical and will soon break.

There are 2 types of measuring instruments: with a digital screen and with arrows. Preference is given to digital ones, since their readings are the most accurate. Digital devices shockproof, have overload protection. The pointer device is used in a horizontal position. Its advantage is that it shows the measurement without additional power (accumulators, batteries).

Attention! In all devices, the range alternating current no more than 500-600 watts.

To connect the lighting device to the mains, you must perform step by step algorithm action with detailed instruction.

Preparatory work: ringing - phase detection on the ceiling

At this stage of preparation, it will be clarified what to do with the ground wire and how to distinguish between phase and zero on the ceiling? How to connect a lot of wires from a chandelier with cables on the ceiling? Connecting a lighting fixture with your own hands is a neat business, requiring minimal knowledge of electricity.

To find desired cable the indicator will help

Ground wire

If the wiring has already been done on the ceiling (the wiring is done, say, under drywall in a frame base), then there is “zero” among them, the rest are phase and earth.

Attention! Wiring with grounding is made in new buildings and in rooms with repairs.

The ground wire is yellow-green. By international standard denoted RE. It connects to the same color wire on the chandelier. You can’t just leave the wire like this, as this can lead to a short circuit. If there is grounding in the chandelier, and old wiring on the ceiling, then you need to make PE insulation in the chandelier. Grounding insulation is carried out on the ceiling, if it is not in the chandelier. Insulation is done neatly and efficiently with insulating tape. It is unacceptable that the edge of the tape sticks out or peels off.

Proper insulation

We are looking for phases and zero

All wires are checked - you need to determine where the phase and zero are. You can't just rely on color scheme for several reasons. Firstly, it is not known (in many cases) how the wires were connected to the junction box - the qualification of an electrician or a neighbor; secondly, the color scheme can change, and if a person is sure that the phase is red in color, then this opinion may be erroneous.

If only three wires come out of the ceiling, a switch with 2 keys is installed, then there can be two power wires for each section of the switch, and one zero is common. Ringing is done using a multimeter (tester), indicator.

To call you need to do the following:

Put on shoes with rubber soles. Be in a dry area. Hands and feet should also be dry. Water is a current conductor.
The voltage is turned on on the meter or shield, and the switch is set to the “on” mode.
Carefully so that the wires do not touch each other (so as not to burn all the wiring in the house), you should touch each one in turn with the indicator, the edge of the screwdriver. If the screwdriver ignites, there is voltage.
When connecting a measuring device, the tester will show, with an arrow or numbers on the display, what voltage is in the wire.
To be sure (if the memory is bad), the phase is marked with a marker or everything is written down on paper - what color.
After the phase is detected, the switch is turned off, and then the apartment is de-energized on the electrical panel or on the meter.

To determine the wires by the tester, you need to put the switch on the device on “volts”, select the scale “more than 220 V”. After that, carefully touch the probes, you need to hold the handle, and not the bare iron, to the wiring in stages, and not all at once. Two power wires between themselves do not give a ringing. If there is such a pair, then these are phase wires. And the third "zero". Further, each wire, the intended phase, is required to be connected with probes to zero. 220 V will appear on the tester screen. The cables should be marked with a marker on the insulation or the colors should be written down. Working with the indicator is easier: lit - phase, no - zero (indicated by the letter N). Phase - the letter L.

If there are only 2 wires in the ceiling, one of them is definitely a phase. The switch is single-key, and if there is a second one, then it is non-working.

Chandelier connection diagrams

The market offers a large variety of chandeliers that amaze with their beauty and originality.

Chandelier with one cartridge.
With rotating platform.
With a large number of halogen and LED sources.
There are models with built-in dimmers, drivers that allow you to turn on the lighting device with a remote control. And also with the help of the remote control, the brightness of the light and the sequence of operation of the lamps change.

But, despite such an extensive classification of chandelier models, they will all be connected according to the schemes below.

One of the main nuances is the correct connection of cables on the ceiling with wires from the chandelier. FROM necessary tools the connection is made quickly by a person who does not have experience in working with electrical devices.

Chandelier connection diagram

If the switch is single, and the chandelier is two-wire (for example, arion or sconce), then you need to follow the steps according to the chandelier-ceiling 2x2 scheme. That is, there is a two-core cable on the ceiling. This option is simple and fast. After the phase and zero are determined, the power supply is turned off. The neutral wire on the chandelier (you can find this out from the instructions for the lighting fixture, by color) must be connected to the desired "zero" on the ceiling. It is also done with the "phase". All connected wires must be properly insulated. There are no difficulties, installation is carried out quickly.

If the chandelier is five-arm or three-arm, and the switch is with one key, then it follows:

Consider all the wires in the chandelier. There are 2 wires coming out of each horn. This means that a phase and zero are connected to each. Then all the lights will turn on.
Preparation of wires for connection with the general wiring of the house. Each wire on the chandelier is exposed by 3 cm. Since they are very thin, everything should be done carefully. Further, all wires of the same color (say, blue) are taken and twisted into one group. It turned out twisting one core from each cartridge. The same twist is done with the remaining wires of a different color.
It turned out 2 twists - zero will be suitable for one, and phase for the second. After that, the indicator checks the closure of the cartridge-twisting circuit.
Two strands of wires are fixed to 2 wires on the ceiling. Be sure to use electrical tape.

Attention! Do not connect aluminum and copper wires. These 2 metals oxidize over time and the contact will disappear. There are special adapters for this.

Connecting a chandelier to a single-gang switch

The chandelier has 2 wires, the ceiling has 3 wires (double switch)

There are 2 options here: the third wire is grounding or the second phase, with a 2-key switch. In such a situation, you need to do this:

Be sure to make a call using the indicator. For this operation, the network must be electric, and the switch is turned on. Otherwise, the indicator will not show the second phase. Indicator behavior:

The first case is when, when touched with a screwdriver, 2 wires illuminate the indicator, and the third one does not light up. This is a common wire.
The second case - one is lit, and the other 2 are not. The wire that gives the glow is common.

If there is no indicator, then any 2 cables are taken from the ceiling and connected to the chandelier. Turn on the power on the panel and the switch. If the lamps light up, then the installation is proceeding correctly. And you don't need to redo it.

Designate the phases and zero, if they are of the same color, turn off the power to the meter.
After that, a common wire is fixed in the terminal and one of the remaining two to choose from. The wires from the chandelier are also connected. Exposure must be insulated.
If there is a desire for the chandelier to light up from any of the two keys on the switch, a jumper is placed.

After complete isolation, the power supply is turned on and the operation is checked.

If the switch is two-key, and the chandelier is five-lamp, then:

In the chandelier, 2 wires come out of each horn with a lamp.
Everything is collected in one bundle and divided into groups (double): 2 feeders, 1 zero. One color - 1 group. The rest of the outgoing people are divided into random groups.
All groups of wires are twisted with those indicated on the ceiling.

Connecting a chandelier with three wires to a multi-key switch

Wiring diagram for a multi-key switch

If the chandelier is two-arm and more, then connection options are possible:

If you turn on the switch, all the lights will turn on.
With the help of one key, a group of light bulbs on a chandelier is turned on (for example, the lower cartridges in a multi-tiered lamp).
With the help of one key, 2-3 lamps are lit, but not all.

There are 2 wires on the ceiling, which means that only the first option is possible - all the lamps will light up at the same time. To connect a chandelier with three wires to 2 on the ceiling, you should carefully study the technical characteristics of the chandelier. Basically, by the manufacturer, all the threads in the chandelier are connected in pairs. In this case, the connection takes place in an elementary way: finding the phase and zero, and connecting the chandelier.

If in the chandelier each wire comes from the ceiling, then all the wires are connected in parallel by installing an additional jumper wire.

Scheme for connecting a chandelier with several wires to a three-core cable on the ceiling

If it is required to turn on the lamps in groups in a three-lamp chandelier (five-cartridge carol), then the connection is made according to the diagram. At the same time, a two- or three-gang switch is installed. To do this, on the ceiling, a common wire, zero, phase in a three-core cable is determined by the indicator. At the same time, a switch for at least 2 keys is installed for everyone. 1 wire of their pair, coming from each chandelier horn, is connected to the common wire.

There will be 2 threads that join the free wires from the pairs from the cartridges.

Attention! Before installing a multi-horn chandelier to a multi-key (triple) switch, you need to carefully study the lighting device, its technical characteristics and instructions for use.

Wiring diagram for a three-gang switch

Connecting a chandelier to a switch block with a socket

In some cases, it is required to install an outlet and a switch nearby (this is often found in the kitchen). These two points change to one - the block "socket-switch" by anam. In this case, the switch has from one to four keys. Acting according to the scheme, which indicates the usual connection of the chandelier to the switch, installation will be quick. There is one wire in the circuit that comes out of "zero" and enters the socket outlet. The scheme is classical, but in practice, zero and phase are often reversed.

LED chandelier

Stands out because typical spotlight contains additional elements for uninterrupted operation, laid down by the manufacturer. Such elements are: dimmers, drivers, converters. The light is controlled by the remote control.

A passport is attached to the chandelier indicating the options for work, technical specifications, as well as with the wiring diagram for connecting it to the mains. When connecting a chandelier, precise work is required, according to the scheme given in the passport, otherwise it will not work correctly or burn out. After connecting the lighting device to the network, adjustment and testing is carried out using a switch and a remote control.

After reading the title of the article, surely someone will definitely say - “why about e so-and-so write, with such work any landlord himself will be able to cope. Yes, of course, the installation and connection of a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in an apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if they are incorrect installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting fixture is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems related to how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - providing correct connection it to the mains and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

find out useful information, from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting fixture, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, at the same time, one should not forget about some other aspects of the choice.

The total luminous power of the chandelier should correspond to the size and type of the room for which it is intended. There are certain illumination standards, which can be summarized as follows:

— For rooms where soft, diffused, subdued light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), one should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W / m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bathroom, bathroom) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (study or nursery) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W / m².

- For rooms with bright illumination (living room), this indicator is taken equal to 20 W / m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting fixture with the required number of horns should be selected. Important nuance- in no case should you increase the overall illumination using more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. Material of plafonds, cartridges, section internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even to a fire hazard.

The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, conversely, too small will simply get lost on the plane of the ceiling of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

— Optimum diameter chandeliers can be roughly determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D- chandelier diameter in centimeters

L And S- the length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room with dimensions of 5 × 3 m the best option there will be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference ceiling option lighting device, so that from the floor to it was at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m. Hanging option will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
Chandeliers are most often sold unassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, compliance with the threads on all collapsible parts, integrity decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and clear instructions for product installation.
Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality goods and outright fakes for famous brands. On such products, cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures, can be installed. They will issue a counterfeit poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisting of wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out wire switching, their desoldering and insulation in accordance with all the rules. In particular, this applies to "fancy" chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these unnecessary troubles, it is better to choose a product with really high-quality cable and electrical “stuffing”, demand assembly and testing of the product in the store.

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lights

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

We deal with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

In this article, we will not consider particularly complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions from the field of home wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out on two wires - phase and zero. If a ground loop is provided in the house (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and, most often, this issue is foreseen in new buildings), then a third wire connected to the ground bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking of single-phase wires electrical network:

A characteristic nuance - if the neutral wire always has a blue or blue color, and the ground contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire may vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting fixtures, to switch between different modes of their operation:

Ideally, both the chandelier and the house wiring should use this color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single color insulation. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

Particular attention should be paid to safety measures when working with electrical wiring. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with bare hands, unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work under the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable foundation - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes the best option there will be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the easiest option is a cable with two wires coming out of the hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. By existing rules zero should go directly to the junction box, and phase should be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “did not bother” with these issues.

To check, you must have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often it is performed in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent body, although modern models may have another design, including even with an indication of the magnitude of the phase voltage.
First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment on the switchboard. This is necessary in order to thoroughly clean the wires from insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are bred to the sides as much as possible to prevent their short circuit. After that, turn on the machine on the shield.
Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked in sequence. None should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, then the wiring in the house is not done correctly - on the switch, apparently, “zero” is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - it should just be borne in mind, exercising special care in further work.

The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling holes should be like the appropriate amount phase wires. The check is carried out in the same way as described above, with the marking of each phase separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - just to eliminate the errors of the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

The easiest way is when the chandelier is one- or two-three-horn, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - zero and phase. If there is a ground wire, then it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

In the case when it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue "zero" wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often, this can be seen quite clearly on chandeliers, and such switching will not be difficult.

The simplest case: all the wires are in full view

In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the device of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, here you can figure it out by ringing all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the cartridges (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and empirically find out which horn is powered from which wire. After that, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

For "call" hidden wires you need a multitester

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of a circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all cartridges, but in practice it is still probably easier to just ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and a group of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: wiring diagram for a five-arm chandelier to a two-gang switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything became clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of work depends on the design of the chandelier, and on the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of mounting chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In old high-rise buildings hanging hooks were installed in the ceiling holes at the construction stage. If it is worth it, then the problem is less, however, it does not hurt to check it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load is easily maintained, then there should not be any special concerns.

But what if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? No problem, you can install it yourself.

FROM wooden ceiling there should be no problems in principle - a hook-screw is easily screwed in there.

FROM concrete slab overlaps can be various solutions:

— You can hang a hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the plate. In this case, care must be taken not to damage the wiring passing there with the rod.

- Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a “butterfly” lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

Hook with a spring retainer - "butterfly"

- If this option is not possible, for example, in the case when there is no “regular” opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill in concrete floor a hole for a plastic dowel, but still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it is useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If the internal cavity of the plate is caught during drilling, a special metal dowel for hollow structures - with screwing it in, a “skirt” is formed that securely holds the fastener in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. Recommend after that the speaker metal part insulate by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting on it a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier for a regular mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply of the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected by terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks can occur on them with melting of the insulation. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram, about which it was written above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually closed with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch, in order to immediately verify that there are no short circuits. It does not hurt to check the absence of a phase on the metal body of the chandelier with an indicator. If everything is fine, then when the switch keys are turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed or inserted into the cartridge and the practical functionality of all chandelier horns is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can proceed to the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative details etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many produced chandeliers, especially designed for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting plate fixed to the ceiling. This greatly improves the reliability of the overall installation, as the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.

The design of the mounting plate can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The bar can be straight or curved, with brackets for fixing the body of the lighting fixture, or with protruding studs or screws.

Particularly heavy chandeliers can be supplied with cruciform planks or in the form of a reinforced I-profile.

The bar may have a hole with the edges covered with an insulating sleeve for the passage of wires coming out of the ceiling. You can place the bar in the immediate vicinity of the cable outlet - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring.

The mounting plate is fixed to the ceiling plane in various ways, depending on the specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference being that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a clamping head “under hide».

As well as when using a hook, the reliability of fastening under load must be checked.

The mount must be checked under load - in order to prevent such situations

Quite often, a situation occurs when the location of the dowels too close to the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure the reliability of installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So optimal choice fasteners and installation sites still remains with the direct executor of the work.

Fastening the chandelier itself to the mounting plate can also have its own characteristics. Perhaps, in this case, help is required - the lamp will have to be held on weight while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the body of the chandelier is attached to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was described above.

Features of fastening the chandelier to the plasterboard ceiling

By by and large, you should plan the placement of the chandelier even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or more additional metal profiles for attaching a mounting plate or installed a hook, which will then be easy to build up with a chain or rod. IN drywall sheet a hole is immediately marked and drilled in the right place for the exit of wires and a hook.

But what if this question of hanging a chandelier arose later?

In the case when the lighting fixture is of a suspended type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the GVL - its strength is unlikely to be enough for a point load. You can do it like this:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening with a long drill installed in a puncher.

An anchor with a long threaded stud is inserted and fixed to the limit in the hole made, so that the stud comes out beyond the drywall plane.

An eye nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, to which the chandelier itself will later be hung. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

Spring "butterfly" with a hairpin

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - everything same way, as when working on a conventional ceiling, only the fasteners do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it comes out.

If the chandelier is a console type, that is, it is installed on a mounting plate, then a lot depends on its mass.

- In the case when the total weight from the fixture does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, you can fix the bar directly to the GVL sheet. For this, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

Dowels "butterfly" and "snail" for fixing parts on drywall

The first are held as a result of the spread plastic construction under a sheet of drywall when screwing in a self-tapping screw. The second principle of operation is different - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwing in. The "snail" is screwed in completely, flush with the GVL surface, in the right place, and a hole remains in its center, into which an ordinary self-tapping screw easily enters.

- If the chandelier is heavier, then to fix the mounting plate, you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become mounts for a slatted or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from mounting a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: fixing a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for different types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

None practical advice on independent installation of a chandelier on a stretch ceiling will not be given - this should be done only by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling canvas.

Read detailed information about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall on the planned height of the stretched canvas. Based on the location of this embedded platform, the craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, reinforcing their edges, through which the wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempts to cut holes yourself in order to hang the chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using methods of work by type plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. A deplorable, but logical result of such amateur activity will be the need complete replacement canvases.

After the “ceiling” masters finish their work, leaving the necessary holes reinforced with special eyelets for the chandelier and fasteners, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care so as not to break or puncture the surface in any case.

On a heavy ceiling, it is preferable to use a pendant one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, " halogens" or fluorescent "housekeepers" are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly spoil the decorative effect of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: an example of mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

Connecting a chandelier to lighting wiring is an integral part of any repair, both in the apartment and in a single room. And although this operation is associated with work in electrical circuits, absolutely anyone can handle it. It is only necessary to follow certain rules, and then the work will be done quickly, efficiently and there will be no question of how to properly connect the chandelier.

Primary requirements

The most important requirements when working with electrical wiring are compliance with safety rules and rules for installing electrical devices. It makes no sense to study the "bible" of electricians: "Rules safe operation electrical installations of consumers" (PBEEP) and "Rules for the installation of electrical installations" (PUE). Such documentation is necessary mainly for those people for whom working with electricity is the main occupation. For home repairs, in order to connect a chandelier to a switch, it is enough to know and follow simple rules.

Rule 1. All tools that will be used for electrical work must have high-quality handle insulation.

Rule 2. Most work should only be done on de-energized wires. It is not enough to flip the light switch. To turn off the electricity completely, there is a main switch on the apartment panel, which must be turned off before starting work.
Rule 3. The light switch is mounted exclusively in the break of the phase wire.

Wiring diagram for a chandelier with a double switch

As can be seen from the figure, three wires fit on the double switch, one of which comes from the junction box, and the other two are used to connect the lamp. Therefore, when installing new wiring, a cable with 3 wires must be used.

Connecting a chandelier to a double switch follows the same rules as connecting a conventional lamp.

What is fraught with polarity reversal?

Quite often you can hear from non-professional advisers that the switch can be installed on any wire. Like, what's the difference, because with open contacts, the current does not go through the lamp and this is enough. This is not true. The fact is that if the switch breaks the neutral conductor, then no current flows through the lamps of the chandelier, but there will be a phase potential on all wires, which threatens with a current shock during work.

A less dangerous, but unpleasant feature of such switching is that fluorescent lamps and “housekeeper” lamps can dimly glow or flicker even in the off position.

Tool

To connect a chandelier or other lamp, you will need the following:

Straight and Phillips screwdrivers;
Side cutters;
pliers;
Sharp knife;
Measuring device, digital or pointer;
Indicator screwdriver (probe);
Insulating tape.

The purpose of most tools is clear without comment. Why do you need a knife? In some cases, namely when removing insulation from single-core conductors electric cable, side cutters or pliers cannot be used, since a transverse cut of the core on the connected wire will lead to its fracture. This is especially true for aluminum wires.

The insulation needs to be cut sharp knife like sharpening a pencil. Longitudinal scratches on the cores of the wires are not terrible.

An indicator screwdriver is used to search for a phase conductor. And although its end provides for the possibility of using it as a screwdriver, this is not necessary, since mechanical strength indicator is very small and it is almost impossible to tighten the screw normally without breaking the tool (it is possible, but the tool will not last very long).

More details should be given to measuring devices. They are digital and pointer. For most parameters, digital is preferable. They have high precision, are not afraid of shocks and falls from a height, are protected from overload.

The pointer device should only be used in the position for which it is intended (most portable devices must be placed horizontally), a fall from a height with a 100% probability will disable it, as well as an overload with improperly set regulator positions. The undoubted advantage of the pointer device is that voltage measurements can be performed without a built-in power source.

Note for all types of devices: the operating range must provide for the measurement of an alternating voltage of at least 500 V.

Wire marking

To facilitate the continuity of wires and eliminate errors, color marking of the insulation of conductors in the cable is used. The generally accepted standard is the marking of the ground conductor yellow with a green stripe.

You should never use a conductor with such a color to connect devices! This conductor is used only for grounding.

For the neutral (neutral) conductor, cores with blue or blue colors are used. Phase conductors may have a variety of colors other than those listed.

Problems arise when working in houses with old wiring. Once the insulation of the wires was made the same for all the wires, so before starting work, it is necessary to perform a continuity test of the wires.

Wiring continuity

First of all, you need to check the correct connection of the switch. In the open position, the indicator screwdriver should show the presence of a phase on one of the conductors. If the phase cannot be found, then this means that the switch is connected incorrectly or there are problems in the junction box.

In the place of the ceiling where the lamp will be installed, at least two wires must come out - zero and phase from the switch. In the case of connecting a multi-track chandelier, the number of wires can be large. One of them remains neutral, the number of others corresponds to the number of keys on the switch.

Using the indicator

Determining the purpose of each wire is very simple. When the switch is on, only one of the wires should be free of voltage. The rest should cause the indicator to glow. By turning off the light switch keys in turn, you can determine which wire corresponds to which key.

With a voltmeter

When checking with a measuring device, you need to find a wire relative to which voltage will be present on the remaining wires. This wire will be zero. Between the remaining wires, the device will show the absence of voltage. Further, leaving one of the probes of the device connected to the neutral wire, turn off the switch keys in turn to determine the ownership of the wires.

Wire connection

Connection of luminaire wires to lighting wiring can be done by soldering, twisting and using special adapter terminal blocks.

Soldering is the most reliable method, but it is quite difficult to do it at a height in the limited space between the base of the chandelier and the ceiling. Therefore, this method is practically not used.

Twisting can only be used when twisting conductors of approximately the same diameter. Single and stranded wires must not be twisted together.

Such a connection forms an electrochemical pair and, even in the presence of traces of humidity in the room, quickly oxidizes, causing a breakdown in contact and heating of the junction. Most fires are caused by poor conductor connections.

The place of twisting must be carefully wrapped with insulating tape so that the tape comes on the insulation of both connected wires. It is better to use special insulating caps.

Most best way connections - use of connecting terminals. On sale you can find a wide variety of types of terminals - from simple screw to spring.

What to do if the type of switch or chandelier does not match the required

It may happen that the old chandelier had several groups of lamps and turned on from a two-gang switch, and after the repair it was decided to install a regular single-arm one. Or vice versa, instead of a simple chandelier, a multi-track one was installed. How to connect the lamp correctly?

The number of keys is more than the conductors in the chandelier

If more wires come out of the double switch (and from the ceiling, respectively, to the chandelier) than are necessary to connect the chandelier (most often four, one of which is grounding), then the most radical way is to replace the switch, and leave some of the wires free.

And you can connect a simple chandelier to a double switch. You can combine the wires coming from different switch keys. The connection can be made on the ceiling in front of the chandelier connection block or in the switch itself (in this case, the second wire to the chandelier must be left free). Then the chandelier will turn on with any key, and to turn it off, you need all the keys to be in the off position.

The number of keys is less than the conductors in the chandelier

If you do not repair the wiring, then connecting a chandelier with two or more horns to two wires is possible with only one option - by combining all the separate groups of lamps into one.

As a last resort, if wiring permits, two switches can be used.

A completely different situation is when connecting a modern chandelier with a remote control. Regardless of the number of groups of bulbs, the chandelier is connected to the switch by wiring with two wires, and the switching of different groups of lamps is carried out by a control unit located in the luminaire.

When buying a new three-arm chandelier, everyone pays attention to the many wires inside and asks the question, how to connect the wires in the chandelier?

Many chandeliers, especially those brought from China, do not have inside necessary connections. Therefore, for example, before connecting a chandelier with three lamps to a switch with two keys, you need to decide how many separate groups of light bulbs will be. Lamps belonging to the same group must be connected in parallel. As a rule, a pair of wires of two colors come out of the socket of each light bulb, usually blue or black and brown. For example, a three-arm chandelier will have 6 wires inside. Wires of the same color must be twisted together. This is done with each group of light bulbs.

Next, the blue wires from each group are also connected together and one wire is led out of them, which will then be connected to the neutral conductor. Separate wires are also taken out from the remaining connections, and connected to the wires from the switch.

Option to connect a five-arm chandelier with two groups to a two-gang switch

Connecting a five-arm chandelier is no more difficult than connecting any chandelier with a two-gang switch.

Connecting a five-arm chandelier with 5 lamps usually means splitting into two groups with 2 and 3 lamps in each. And then the connection diagram will not be any different from installing a chandelier with three wires.

When connecting the wires inside the chandelier with a twist, it is necessary to carefully insulate them. Installation is greatly simplified by using special terminals. The most common are Wago terminals.

The figure clearly shows that the wires connected together of blue color connected to the neutral wire, brown wires, divided into two groups - to separate wires from a two-gang switch.

When connecting several fixtures to one switch, they are also connected in parallel.

Use of ground

New buildings must be equipped with electrical wiring with grounding conductors to comply with existing standards. As already mentioned, such wires are marked with a yellow-green color. In this case, for a chandelier with two groups of lamps, 4 wires will come out of the ceiling: ground, zero and two phase, from the switch.

Luminaires with metal parts usually have a ground connection terminal. Therefore, when the lamp is connected, one must also remember about grounding to the chandelier. If there is no ground terminal, then the ground wire can be omitted. It is only necessary to insulate it and hide it under the lamp body.