Underfloor heating is considered a complex engineering task in itself. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the phased device.

Laying underfloor heating on the ground refers to complex engineering measures. This means that the performer bears responsibility not only for efficiency and long term heating system service, but also for normal behavior flooring in conditions of cyclic heating. Therefore, proceed consistently and strictly follow the recommendations of the device technology.

What pipes are suitable for underfloor heating

The first thing to do is to decide on the type of heat pipes. While the issue with the acquisition is being resolved the right type products, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work... In addition, you will be familiar with the pipe fixing system from the very beginning, and you will provide everything necessary for this.

So, let's start with the rejection of pipes that do not have such a designated purpose as being used in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a pressfitting system and PPR brazing pipes plastic water pipe... The former do not show themselves in the best way in terms of reliability, the latter poorly conduct heat and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.

Initially, a convenient and reliable installation system for temporary fastening of pipes is selected. It could be reinforcement mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with a wire, but imagine installation in this way on an area of ​​100 m 2 or if suddenly several ties come off during the pouring of concrete. Therefore, a mounting substrate or rail system should be used. They are attached to the base of the floor while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click clamps.

The fastening system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing that needs to be paid attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.

Finally, we decide on the material of the pipes. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the mounting technology eliminates the human factor during bending and joining.

Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubing is easy to install, requiring a bottle of flux and a gas burner to solder. Copper the best way manifests itself in systems of "fast" warm floor, which works in parallel with radiators, but not on a permanent basis. Bend copper tubes carried out according to the template, respectively, their break is extremely unlikely.

Polyethylene. This is the more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically not susceptible to breakage, but a special crimping tool is required for installation. Polyethylene can have different density, it is recommended not less than 70%. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene is poorly resistant to diffuse penetration of gases, at the same time, water in a pipe of this length can entrain oxygen in significant volumes from the external environment.

Soil preparation

When installing a warm floor on the ground, a "cake" is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined on an individual basis. But these data are important already at the first stage of work, so that, if necessary, deepen the earthen floor and not sacrifice the height of the room.

V general case the soil is removed 30-35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled in a horizontal plane, an incompressible material is added over the geotextile layer, in most cases, an ASG is used for this.

After careful manual compaction of the bedding, preparation is carried out with low grade concrete. For the purpose of additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface is brought out into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the cake plus about 10-15 mm more.

The choice of insulation

The water-heated floor cake consists of insulation tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. A rather narrow number of requirements are imposed on the insulation itself.

Compressive strength is mainly normalized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as they are more fireproof. If desired, you can use slabs of mineral wool grade 225 according to GOST 9573-96. Cotton wool is often rejected due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydro-barrier (polyamide film). It is characteristic that minimum thickness the plate is 40 mm, while when installing a reflective screen made of EPPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20-25 mm.

Foam materials also serve as a good barrier against moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require a waterproofing device. Many can be stopped by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).

The thickness of the insulation is determined heat engineering calculation... If concrete with expanded clay as a filler was used in the preparation, 10-15 mm EPS or 60 mm mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values ​​must be increased by 50%.

Preparatory and accumulating screeds

It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between the two ties and that any movement or vibrations are excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation plates are glued onto it using tile glue under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If mineral wool is used, the concrete preparation must first be covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.

The screed layer above the insulation must be of such a thickness that its overall thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the heat shield. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5-2 cm of the total height of the ceilings, but to adjust the inertia of the warm floor, you can freely "play" with this value. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.

The top layer of the screed, subjected to heating, is poured after the walls have been enclosed with a damper tape. For convenience, the accumulation screed can be poured in two stages. On the first, about 15-20 mm are poured with reinforcement with a rare mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting plane and fix the pipe installation system, the rest is poured to the level of the zero mark minus the thickness of the floor covering.

1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel bedding; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - hydro-vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - reinforcing mesh; 7 - underfloor heating pipes; eight - cement-sand screed; 9 - floor covering; 10 - damper tape

System installation, proportions and loop pitch

Underfloor heating pipes should be laid according to a previously thought out scheme drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate loop of the loop.

The same principle applies to floor zoning. For example, in the play area, pipes can be laid at a more frequent pace, and it is advisable not to lay them under the cabinet furniture at all. In every single loop rectangular, depending on the priority of heating, the tubes can be laid either with a snake or a snail, or you can combine options. General rule simple: the further a specific point is from the beginning of the channel, the lower its temperature, on average, there is a drop of 1.5-2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, optimal length the loop is in the range of 50-80 meters.

The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the permissible bending radius. A denser gasket is possible according to the snail pattern or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to adhere to a distance equal to 20-30 values ​​of the tube diameter. Allowance must also be made for the thickness of the accumulation screed and the desired heating rate of the floor.

The installation system is attached along the route through the insulation to the layer concrete preparation, accordingly, the length of the fastener (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% longer than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.

When laying the pipe, you should consider an impromptu spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all hinges are fixed in the mounting system, they are checked high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, the upper layer accumulating screed.

The inclusion of a warm floor in the heating system

It is recommended to lay whole pipe sections without joints in the screed layer. Loop tails can either be fed to local collectors or lead directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is slightly removed from the boiler or if all rooms have common corridor, for which indirect heating is sufficient.

The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to the manifold assembly. Each of the bends is supplied shut-off valves, on the feed tubes set Ball Valves with a red flywheel, on the return - with a blue one. A threaded transition with shut-off valves is required for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, its purging or flushing.

An example of a connection diagram for a warm water floor to the heating system: 1 - heating boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - underfloor heating manifold cabinet

The connection of the collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators, two-pipe and combined schemes inclusion. In addition to the thermostat, the manifold units can be equipped with recirculation systems that maintain a comfortable temperature of the heating agent in the supply of about 35-40 ºС.

Arrangement of underfloor heating in a house on the ground requires a carefully planned approach. In most cases, a phased implementation of the work is required: at the first stage, a rough screed is poured and waiting for it to ripen, at the second stage the remaining layers are laid.

Construction for a private house

Neglecting this rule can lead to negative consequences. This is explained by the constant movement of the soil and, accordingly, all the layers located above. Movements can be observed even on packed and compacted soil, which long time lay without load.

After laying the underfloor heating cake, which has a rather impressive mass, cracks from subsidence may form. The most negative consequence there may be a rush of elements of the warm floor, that is, all the costs of its arrangement will be in vain.

Installation of a warm water floor on the ground

The first step is to determine the level to which the excavation will be carried out. It is necessary to remove the top fertile layer in any case, since plant residues tend to decompose and smell unpleasant. Regardless of whether the subfloor is poured or not, the top layer of soil must be removed.

In addition, the fertile layer is less dense due to the presence of living beings and microorganisms in it, therefore, under the weight of the layers of the water-heated floor, it will begin to sag. As a result, the overlying layers will suffer again.

The height of the underfloor heating pie on the ground can be more than 20 cm, so the counting must start from the mark where the finished floor will pass. In this place, put the appropriate mark and measure the required depth. In this case, it is better to mark the level of each layer so that it is easier to navigate during the arrangement.

Step by step guide

For a high-quality implementation of the process, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for installing a warm floor on the ground:

• Remove the top fertile layer, remove large debris and stones. The bottom of the resulting pit is leveled and tamped. This will be the basis for the layers to be laid, so it is best to check the level with a level.
• Next, a layer of sand is poured, and any sand is suitable for dumping. It must be well tamped and leveled.
• The next layer in the underfloor heating with water heating is expanded clay or crushed stone. However, it should be remembered that crushed stone is characterized by lower thermal conductivity. It is better to take stones of small or medium size. It is necessary to compact for a long time, until the surface becomes almost monolithic.
• Now it's the turn of the preliminary screed, for the manufacture of which you can use two options. In the first case, sand and crushed stone are spilled with a slurry of sand and cement in a 2: 1 ratio. In the second case, a rough screed with a thickness of 5-7 cm is poured with the laying of a reinforcing mesh. This option is considered more reliable, capable of withstanding significant loads.
• After the screed has set and hardened concrete mortar proceed to laying the waterproofing layer. In most cases, this is done using a 200 micron thick polyethylene film laid in two layers.
• Styrofoam plates are laid on the waterproofing, the joints must be glued with tape to prevent the solution from leaking.
• Above it is necessary to lay a metallized waterproofing.
• Then proceed to the installation of the "warm floor" system. Install the fasteners, lay the cable and heating pipes.
• The entire structure of the warm floor on the ground is poured with a reinforced floor heating screed.

Before you make a warm floor in a private house, you need to take into account all the nuances. The thickness of each layer is determined by the climatic conditions of the region, for colder areas thick layers of cake are required, for the southern regions the layers can have a thickness of 2 to 5 cm. Careful compaction and leveling of the layers is the key to a better and more durable warm floor. You can use manual devices to tamp the layers of a warm floor on the ground with your own hands, but a mechanized process allows you to achieve maximum efficiency.

The heat-insulating material deserves special attention. When deciding how to make a warm floor on the ground, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene plates with a density higher than 35 kg / m 3. The thickness of the insulating layer is also determined by the climatic conditions of the area. In the northern regions, thermal insulation is laid with a thickness of 10 cm. In this case, laying can be carried out in two layers with overlapping the seams of the lower row with upper plates. The joints of the slabs must be glued with tape.

Enough important point in the arrangement of a water-heated floor is waterproofing and thermal insulation of the foundation. It is assumed that the base surface will be treated with a waterproofing material prior to the commencement of all work. In addition, it is recommended to lay along the perimeter expanded polystyrene plates, which will become an obstacle to the cold air inside.

How to make a warm floor on the ground with a high level of groundwater

At high level groundwater, it is necessary not only to correctly arrange the layers of the warm floor. At the same time, it is very important to organize the drainage of water from the foundation.

For floors on soil with a warm water floor, the level of which is located below the passage of groundwater, it is necessary to equip drainage. In this case, below the floor level, at least 30 cm do drainage system... Pour on the bottom river sand or free soil mixed with gravel.

The material is poured in layers no more than 10 cm, each layer is abundantly moistened with water and carefully tamped. In most cases, three layers are sufficient, but more can be added if necessary. Geological textiles are laid on top of the sand or soil, which prevents the penetration of water to the layers of the warm floor. Geotextile is a modern material characterized by high tensile strength and resistance to damage by rodents. In addition, it is able to compensate for mechanical loads that will be exerted on a warm floor along the ground in a private house.

Features of the floor layer scheme

Also, we must not forget about the foundation, it can be processed. bituminous mastic or others waterproofing materials and impregnations. For thermal insulation, polystyrene foam plates are laid along the inner perimeter.

Then they act according to the scheme conventional mounting water underfloor heating on the ground. Layers of sand and gravel are poured and a rough screed is poured. In this case, it is better not to use the option with a slurry of sand and cement. Reinforced rough screed is considered more reliable.

For waterproofing at high groundwater levels plastic wrap it is recommended to replace with weld-on waterproof materials or polymer membranes. The cost of these materials is higher, but the reliability and quality are at a high level.

Then do the styling thermal insulation material and a metallized hydro-barrier. The "warm floor" system is installed according to the instructions. A metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top and the entire structure is poured with a concrete screed.

The completion of all work is the installation of the finishing floor covering.

Warm floor on the ground can be called complex design, the arrangement of which must be approached very responsibly. For greater reliability, a rough screed should be poured, in extreme cases, all layers should be carefully tamped.

In your home, you may need a water floor heating device on the ground. Subject to compliance with the existing SNiP, you can independently perform the work, starting from bedding and ending with a finishing screed, followed by finishing with a floor covering.

Is it possible to make a water floor on the ground

A cake of a water-heated floor on the ground can be performed provided that the method of installing the heating system using a concrete screed is used. Laying allows you to simultaneously achieve several goals: to make a sub-floor and prepare a base for a topcoat.

The construction of a water-heated floor on the ground provides for the work that is usually used to prepare concrete slab in industrial and residential buildings. The result of the work largely depends on the achievement of several tasks:

• Providing reliable thermal insulation that prevents the floor from freezing.
• Protection of the premises from the appearance of dampness.
• Prevention of board cracking after several years of operation.

Literate self-styling A water floor over the ground helps to accomplish all three tasks. Installation directly on the ground is allowed in accordance with SNiP.

What "pie" should be under a warm floor

The layout of the flooring on the ground is somewhat different from the usual pie used to install the heating system on an already finished base. The following stages of work are carried out:

To make a water floor on the ground with your own hands, it will take from 20 days to 1.5 months. You can speed up the installation process by ordering ready-made cement mixes.

The main mistakes when installing a water floor on the ground

When working on fill soil, it is easy to make mistakes that lead to the destruction of the slab in the future. It is required to strictly observe phased production cake water floor heating, starting from the ground.

It would be optimal to perform a preliminary heat engineering calculation, which allows you to accurately determine the thickness of the backfill, thermal insulation and the power of the heating system.

Common mistakes during installation are:

• Violations of the technology for installing a warm water floor on the ground. The absence of expansion gaps in the slab, poorly performed work on tamping the powder, improperly laid waterproofing, subsequently cause freezing of the screed, accumulation of condensate and dampness in the room.
• Be sure to sprinkle sand in front of the crushed stone on the soil base. In this case, you can use any kind of raw material, but river sand of a coarse fraction will be optimal. The minimum soil density after compaction depends on the weather and atmospheric conditions terrain and is calculated according to special tables.

Self-installation of a water heating circuit on the ground is used in private houses, garages, car services and other buildings. Gradual adherence to the installation rules will allow you to do all the work yourself.

Floor arrangement schemes on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• based on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• with support on the walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all rooms on the ground floor. Ground floors are cheap, simple and lightweight; it is also beneficial to arrange in a basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple construction, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractive in value.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the floor insulation on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse from the floor on the ground if it is required to backfill with soil to a too high height, more than 0.6-1 m... In this case, the costs of backfilling and compaction of the soil may be too high.

Floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage, which is located above the ground.

Three schematic diagrams of flooring on the ground

In the first option concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig. 1.

After the concrete has hardened, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this version, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for regulatory load floors, have adequate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork during the construction reinforced concrete slab overlap. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended floor on the ground".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of soil shrinkage under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the fill soil is more than 600 mm... The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk over time of significant subsidence of the filled soil.

Second option - this is the floor on the foundation - slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for walls and a base for the floor, Fig. 2.

The third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in between load-bearing walls based on bulk soil.

Here, the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The floor load is completely transferred to the filled soil, Fig. 3.

It is the last option that is correctly called floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Ground floors should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against the penetration of soil moisture and gases into the premises - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of condensate water vapor inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structure.

Backfilling of a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion made of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, then the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the cushion: sand, fine gravel, Sand and gravel, and at a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (no thicker than 15 cm.) compaction with water pouring of soil. The degree of compaction of the soil will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large rubble, broken brick, pieces of concrete should not be placed in the pillow. There will still be voids between large fragments.

It is recommended to make the thickness of the pad made of bulk soil in the range of 300-600 mm. Compact the fill soil to a state natural soil still fails. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can result in too much and uneven floor settlement.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capturing layer is made with a thickness of 20 cm.The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer there should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The upper layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm... in terms of heat saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm... foam. To protect the insulation plates from being pushed through and waterproofing films, which in some floor structures are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before starting the filling of the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay the water supply and sewage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as the pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or to lay down cases for future pipe installation.

Floor construction on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• floor on the ground with concrete screed;
• floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed;
• floor on the ground on wooden logs.

Concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Ground floors are a multi-layer structure, Fig. 4... Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Lay on a ground pillow material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor are fixed separating edge layer from strips 20 - 30 thick mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 for crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for waterproofing. Radius of adjoining concrete to walls 50-80 mm... The concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh fits into lower part slabs with a protective layer of concrete at least 30 mm. For the reinforcement of concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber with a length of 50-80 mm and a diameter of 0.3-1mm... At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured over with water. Read:
4. On hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing are laid on the mastic or roofing material on a bituminous basis with the institution of each layer on the wall. Rolls are rolled out and overlapped 10 cm... Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be connected to a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of waterproofing and gas insulation thermal insulation slabs are laid. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic is also used, with a minimum density of PSB35 (living quarters) and PSB50 under heavy loads (garage). Polyfoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying the foam on the polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with overlapping sheets of 100-150 mm... The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by the heat engineering calculation.
6. Per layer of thermal insulation laying the underlying layer(for example, a plastic film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete of the floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 mm... executed from concrete of class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with a welded steel mesh... The mesh is placed in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar is applied on top of a layer of concrete from dry mixes of factory production with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. On the screed mount the finishing floor.

This is a classic flooring on the ground. On its basis, it is possible different options execution - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Applying modern Construction Materials, concrete floor on the ground is often made without a layer of concrete preparation... A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for the adhesive roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base, impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this, a profiled film, is used, which is laid directly on the ground pad.

The profiled membrane is a polyethylene sheet high density(PVP) with projections molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g / m 2 and comes in rolls from 0.5 to 3.0 width m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sandy base, without deforming or shifting during installation.

Fixed in a sandy base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for placing thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands without rupture the movement of workers and machines for transportation concrete mixes and solutions (excluding caterpillar machines).

The service life of the profiled membrane is over 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid down on a well-compacted sand cushion with the spikes down. The membrane spikes will engage in the pad.

Seams between overlapping rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The spiked surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation plates directly on it and concreting the floor screed.

If plates of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used for the installation of a layer of thermal insulation, then such plates can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill from crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this version, a polymer film of waterproofing is laid on top of a layer of insulation.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is poured from expanded clay, then you can abandon the layer of insulation under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with a bulk density of 250-300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make an insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400-500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, it will be necessary to lay a layer of 45 cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to tamp is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. In wet expanded clay, the thermal insulation properties are reduced. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete, large-porous without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Strong, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of large-pore, sand-free expanded clay concrete.

Floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated screed

In floors on the ground as an upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For living quarters of the first floor of a house more simple and cheap option there will be a flooring device on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is flood-resistant. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in damp rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

A floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 — Floor covering- parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Adhesive for parquet and laminate joints.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for screed assembly.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Pipe of communications (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Thermal insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base of class B15 concrete.

13 - Substrate.

The device for joining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Figure 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquered parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard undercoat.
5. Prefabricated screed made of prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersive adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed of class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam or extruded polystyrene foam, calculated thickness.
12. Substrate.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outside wall.

As already mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and itself has certain thermal insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating(without underfloor heating).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

Fig. 7. Necessarily in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, the insulation is laid with tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends rather strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge is formed in this zone. Through the floor, soil and basement, heat leaves the house.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The ground is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building rules prescribe it is imperative to insulate the area through which heat escapes. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two lines (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the outside of the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is not less than 0.8 m.(item 11 in fig. 6).

The thickness of the insulation is calculated from the condition that the general indicator of the resistance to heat transfer in the section floor - soil - base should be no less than a similar parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement insulation plus the floor must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For climatic zone in the area of ​​Moscow, the total thickness of foam insulation is not less than 150 mm. For example, vertical insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

These are the minimum requirements for floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that what more sizes the thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is necessary only in the case of installing underfloor heating in rooms or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat assimilation of the floor surface... Heat assimilation of a floor surface is the property of a floor surface to absorb heat in contact with objects (for example, feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. This insulated floor will feel warmer.

The index of heat absorption of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° C)... A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Concrete base slab, class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, rammed into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a cross section of at least, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on a waterproofing layer with a step of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or sliding the pads, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 width should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

Lags lie loosely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary ties.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based panels are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. Thickness of slabs not less than 24 mm. All joints of the slabs must necessarily rest on the joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor of quality boards can be operated without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

Insulation can be laid in the space between the lags, if necessary. Mineral wool slabs must be covered with a vapor-permeable film on top, which prevents the penetration of insulation microparticles into the room.

Roll waterproofing made of bituminous or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers on a concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When device gluing waterproofing longitudinal and transverse overlap of panels should be provided at least 85 mm.

For ventilation of the underfloor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards should be provided in the rooms. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room cm 2 .

Wooden floor along the ground on logs along the posts

There is another constructive floor scheme - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig. 5.

Positions in Fig. 5 .:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Adhesive and self-tapping screws for screed assembly.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wooden leveling strip.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - The column is brick or concrete.
12 - Base soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground below the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "spree" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

Construction of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles assumes the device of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Ground floors in a house on a pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, the underground part of the foundation is also required to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with outdoor multilayer walls with insulation outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the supporting part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

Your question, it almost always arises when installing a simple floor and underfloor heating. The question is mainly whether it is possible to put waterproofing and all subsequent layers (epps, etc.) on the dump, or necessarily on the rough floor. See, a lot of opinions for what you can. But we pondered here for a long time, and consulted, and came to the conclusion that it is better to lay the waterproofing (and subsequent layers) either on a rough screed, or pour it on, and on it. Let me explain what we are based on. You have soil inside the box, although it is caked, it just lay there, no load. Now you will add more layers, and they are also not rigid, but bulk. That is, the waterproofing will be between the rigid EPS and the bulk (albeit rammed) layer. Any movement of the layer under the waterproofing will lead to the fact that the waterproofing will be somehow unevenly located. Following the micro-movements of the waterproofing, there can also be micro-movements of the Epps. I understand that all your top ties will be reinforced, and they will "keep" the ties from moving. But all the same, why are these extra loads? And I can’t guarantee that nothing will ever move in the layers under the waterproofing :-).

By the way, you have waterproofing in the text description, but not in the picture. If your groundwater is lower than 2 meters from the floor level, then there may be no waterproofing. Epps is just put in and so on. But everything that I wrote above is still valid. Without a hard layer under the eps, any movement under it will create additional loads on the upper layers.

• sand filling 50mm thick, level to a level
• dumping from crushed stone or expanded clay with a thickness of 100 mm, and on it, or pouring a layer of crushed stone / expanded clay with a liquid cement-sand mortar ((2 parts of sand for 1 part of cement), or a rough screed. In total, the thickness of the already spilled crushed stone / expanded clay will be 10-12 cm. If this pouring is not done, then on top of expanded clay you need to make a rough screed of 5-7 cm. Allow the solution to harden and lay waterproofing and subsequent layers on top of it.
• waterproofing
• laying blocks of expanded polystyrene, a layer of 50mm blocks, 20mm blocks on it, so that the total is 70mm
• top waterproofing with foil
• fittings and pipes for underfloor heating, are poured into concrete screed thickness 100mm
• topcoat (tile), about 20mm on it.

As for the fact that for the crushed stone dumping device it is necessary to remove the top 100 mm of soil, this requirement, apparently, in order to arrange dumping on better compacted layers (not on the surface). You can do this, it will only benefit.