Plasterboard wall cladding provides for the device or wooden beams. Metal lathing is mainly used, it is more durable and more practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden blocks with a moisture content of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant compositions for the construction of the frame. In places with high humidity, as well as where it is required to increase the fire resistance of structures, only a metal frame is used.

What kind of timber is needed

For the device of wooden frames, choose a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for the material: moisture - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What fasteners and connection methods are needed

The connection of the frame parts, their fastening on the wall and ceiling are performed dowel-nails... In concrete surfaces, holes are pre-made with a perforator with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners include metal corners... They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The fastening of the guides of the wooden beams is carried out in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest posts).

The metal plate is applicable for both walls and ceilings

The connection of the elements of the wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws at an angle or metal perforated corners. The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are attached directly to the wall. If it is a curve, it is leveled with special compounds or by placing wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

In the set of rules for design and construction, there are basic requirements that must be met to create a strong frame and the subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

1. All products and materials must have a hygienic certificate and fire certificates;
2. In the space between the frame and the rough base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, fire insulating material;
3. Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant plasterboard sheets should be no more than 10%;
4. GKLVO sheets (moisture-resistant) are used in rooms with an air humidity of no more than 90%, a temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used for surface treatment;
5. To fasten GKL sheets with a thickness of not more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
6. With the longitudinal placement of the sheets, the step of their attachment is made no more than 60 cm, with the transverse - no more than 1.25 m;
7. To improve the sound insulation properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide rails, the ceiling and the floor;
8. Fixation of sheets to the frame is carried out with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm, (spacing) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge ​​with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
9. The joints of the sheets with their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, with the horizontal - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
10. The pitch of the load-bearing beams on the ceiling is 50 cm with the transverse arrangement of the gypsum board, 40 cm - with the vertical one;
11. The step of fixing the gypsum board on the ceiling is no more than 17 cm.

Step-by-step construction instructions

The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the end of the wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after the completion of the finishing and laying of utilities. All work is carried out in the following order:

1. Markup;
2. Frame assembly;
3. Installation of sheets;
4. Finishing work.

1. Markup

On the floor and ceiling, the position of the future starting beams of the frame is applied with a chopping cord, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is carried out with a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the attachment points of the vertical pillars, taking into account the selected step, are noted.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical posts. To do this, make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the step of the profiles in the right places.

2. Assembling the frame

Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of ​​the room should be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation is laid in the frame

Attention! If you plan to place insulation in the space between the frame and the wall, you need to take this into account at the calculation stage by placing the starting bar at a tedious distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical beams are mounted with the selected step. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is reinforced with racks located horizontally between them.

Laying of communications

If you plan to place sanitary pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), this must be done after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing the vertical beams, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Installation of sheets

The sheets are placed on the frame, adjusted close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). The caps of the self-tapping screws are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw does not enter the material at a right angle or is deformed, it is replaced with another, placing it at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of plasterboard edge. Putty compound is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. The corners are processed using a reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying with the solution, the surface of the sheets is finished, followed by the placement of the facing material.

There are several ways to create smooth walls and ceilings in the interior of the house. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Plasterboard beams are made of spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the sheathing

The beam must be carefully checked. It can be slightly yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and straightness deviations.

For construction and finishing work, it is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood beetle and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for interior work or prepare a 4% sodium fluoride solution on your own by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for mounting a wooden frame

A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• building level or plumb line;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or fixing plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need gypsum board sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. In this case, you need to remember about the thickness of the gypsum board and take it into account when applying the markings.

The starting point is chosen at the line of the ceiling joint with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are made with enough precision to be used to determine right angles. To do this, we apply the gypsum board at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. Using a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using chalked thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of beams located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markings. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support bar, which is attached to the floor using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be borne in mind that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the beams are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then, vertical posts are installed in the central part of the frame. They start with the bars that frame the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size of the door frame.

The racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling beams of the frame. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates designed for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will provide reliable communication. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal lintel.

Between the opening and the walls, evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm, put the required number of racks. With large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of gypsum board. Fasten drywall to wooden slats so that the junction of the two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account the future cutting and installation of gypsum board.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing of the frame with GKL sheets and finishing work

Installation of gypsum board on a wooden frame begins from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. For this, self-tapping screws for wood 35 mm are used. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. In this case, the caps of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for a high-quality wall finish.

If necessary, cutting the drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges are turned to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the gypsum board on one side of the partition, its internal space for sound insulation is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and data cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back of the wall is sheathed.

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then well putty the joints and caps of the screws.

Plasterboard sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all the joints and caps of the screws are closed with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles are glued or any other type of finishing is applied.

Plasterboard covering uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow a part of the space to be occupied by plasterboard, you can use it to quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceiling with it. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, you need to repeat all the operations described for the installation of the lintel, setting the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some craftsmen assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Plasterboard is installed on the slats, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no supporting vertical posts.

When installing the gypsum board on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal lathing is performed with its fixing to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard has a slightly lower thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.

Drywall is great for interior wall decoration. With its help, you can make absolutely flat walls, while only a real professional can achieve such a result with just plaster. Plasterboard is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.

There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One is to attach drywall to wood slats. Thus, you can hide the communications running along the wall (for example, pipes and wires), as well as make additional heat and sound insulation.

Tools and materials:

1. Slats from soft wood. The optimal section is 100 × 50 mm or 75 × 50 mm, but smaller is possible.
2. Drywall screws
3. Screwdriver
4. Wall plugs
5. Drill

Advice. Sound and heat insulating material can be laid under the sheets of drywall. For greater effect, you can use insulating drywall.

Process:

1. Use chalk to draw a line for attaching the battens around the perimeter of the wall and for the vertical battens. Calculate the spacing between the vertical planks so that the edges of each drywall sheet are in the middle of the next plank. Use a saw to cut the slats to the required length.
2. We attach the slats to the wall. Use dowels and a drill.
3. Place spacers between the attached uprights of the same wooden battens. They must be adjusted to the size of the drywall sheets so that the joints between the sheets are in the middle of the spacer. However, nail the slats at different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive nails into their ends.
4. In places where the slats do not fit snugly against the wall, place wood or drywall supports between them and the wall.
5. When the base mesh is ready, we begin to fix the drywall. As a reminder, its edges should run exactly in the middle of the struts and struts. It is best to use screws for fasteners - they will reduce the risk of splitting drywall. Mark the fasteners every 15 mm so that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the material. In places where the drywall sheet is too large, cut it to size with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
6. Close up the joints between the drywall sheets. Use duct tape for the joint or regular tape with a little plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, seal them first with plaster and then with tape. Cover the tape with putty on top so that you get a very gentle inconspicuous rise along the seam. After sanding and painting, it will be invisible.
7. The wall is ready! Now you can cover it with plaster or make a regular finish, for example, by gluing wallpaper.

Various materials are used to work with drywall. The most common method is the installation of profiled metal frames, but wooden structures can also be found quite often.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so many people prefer it. It should be said that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, therefore it requires additional processing.

Wood preparation

They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Basic physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%.
• For W121 partitions with a height of 2.8–3 m, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for lathing is used.
• For W122 partitions with a height of 2.8–4.2 m, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and battens is suitable, while, depending on the height, different sheet thicknesses are used: for a height of 2.8–3 m - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3–3.6 m - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6–3.9 m - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9–4.2 m - 2 × 18 mm.
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm.
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety.
• Connection on nails, thorns and self-tapping screws is allowed, while thorns are the most preferable, since they create a rigid and durable connection.
• The thickness of the mineral wool sound insulation should be between 50 and 60 mm.
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm.
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood must lie for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

Use quality lumber that meets moisture and fire safety requirements. Make sure that you have certificates of material processing with fire retardants and passing the appropriate examinations.

In addition to fireproofing, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo an antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms... A tree can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds, and the wood becomes unusable and destroyed.
• Biological decay... Wood is an organic material that is susceptible to necrobiosis and decay. For conservation, antiseptic treatment is required.
• Carpenter insects... Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
• Rodents... Also dangerous for wood. Antiseptic treatment scares these animals away.

Pest insects can spoil wood in a short time

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The limiting rate is 3.5–4%.

Sodium fluoride penetrates well into wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not provoke metal corrosion, is odorless and is not toxic to humans. Strong enough antiseptic.

Sodium fluorosilicate is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.

It is unacceptable for residential premises to use oily antiseptics:

• creosote;
• coal;
• shale;
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame for drywall

Routing Partition-to-Wall Connection Lines

Use the rule to draw lines

To do this, measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it the width of the GKL sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer in a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

• This can be done by building the "Egyptian triangle" - a right-angled triangle with an aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5, where 3 and 4 correspond to the legs, and 5 is the hypotenuse. In this case, we lay one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of three.
• From the bottom point, we draw a circular arc in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of four.
• From the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we construct an arc of a circle with a radius multiple of five so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
• By connecting the intersection of these arcs to the original bottom point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line along this perpendicular on the floor - the second line of our partition.

We connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth last line. Thus, we must draw a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick - attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long one from the calculated point.

Frame installation

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame, vertical and horizontal beams. Installation of the frame should be started with the frame.

To do this, fasten the bars along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with self-tapping screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is stone, we fix the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge on both sides of the doorway. If the opening is located against a wall, the bottom beam will be solid and will lie on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, to drill holes in the walls and ceiling, we use an impact drill with a drill on concrete.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers

DIY doorway installation instructions:

1. To do this, we install two risers on the sides of it. The opening width should be 4–5 cm wider than the door frame.
2. We install risers and strengthen them with additional bars.
3. At the height of the door frame plus 2-3 cm, we install a horizontal lintel, which we connect with two vertical bars to the ceiling strip.
4. Vertical beams give the structure additional rigidity and are needed for joining drywall sheets.

Racks

To determine the location of the lintel, we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be located at the doorway, in place of its edge we fix the lintel so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates designed for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed to withstand significant loads.

We must check each detail by level, the racks must be strictly vertical, the jumpers must be horizontal.

Try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is a topic for a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality sawn timber, and dealing with low-quality timber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

You will need:

1. a hammer;
2. hacksaw for wood;
3. screwdriver;
4. impact drill with a drill for concrete;
5. construction knife;
6. plumb line;
7. level;
8. pencil;
9. roulette;
10. square;
11. crowbar;
12. screwdriver;
13. coated thread;
14. screws;
15. dowels;
16. brackets.

If you don't have an impact drill or screwdriver, you can rent one from a home improvement store.

Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for soundproofing. Thick mesh mats can be used to avoid laying the cotton wool in two layers.

Conclusion

Now you know, assemble a wooden frame under the gypsum board. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website contains detailed photo and video instructions, in which you will find the necessary information on this issue. Good luck!

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Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips

When does it make sense to mount a drywall sheet on a frame in general, and on a wooden one in particular? In what cases is the use of wooden lathing impractical? How and from what to correctly assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to cover the frame and putty plasterboard? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it's worth getting in touch with drywall at all or whether it's better to use plaster the old fashioned way.

Here are the reasons for the GCR:

• High finishing speed due to the large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
• Possibility to eliminate significant unevenness of the base at minimal cost. For example, with a height difference between adjacent elements of a slab of 8-10 centimeters (yes, it happens), leveling the ceiling with plaster is very costly and unsafe: falling of peeled plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for the gypsum board on the crate, the state of the surface under it does not matter - if only there was something to attach the frame to;

• The surface of the kraft paper (gypsum core sheath) has excellent adhesive properties. Wallpaper of any density can be glued onto it using any wallpaper glue; tile also adheres perfectly to cement tile glue or homemade cement-based mortar.

Curious: I used a dotted silicone sealant to apply the tiles to the drywall above the bathroom. It was also used to seal the joints between the tiles and to adjoin the apron to the bathtub. All seams maintain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; the tile is held more than securely.

How does drywall lose to plaster?

1. Mechanical strength. I will clarify: in this parameter, gypsum sheet material is second only to cement plaster. Using gypsum plasterboard for wall decoration in a gym or in a workshop is a dubious idea;
2. Resistant to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant drywall only tolerates high humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core in water - and it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, it would be a bad idea to use gypsum plasterboard without protection with a waterproof finishing finish for the construction of shower walls;
3. The occupied area of ​​the room. It is better to level walls with minor irregularities in a small room with a thin layer of plaster: after all, even glued directly to the wall, without a crate, a GKL sheet, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will displace the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move to the center of the room by 60 - 80 mm.

Anti-glue frame

When is it worth mounting drywall on a frame, and when is it better to glue it directly onto the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the drops, blockages and curvature of the base exceed 40 - 50 millimeters, a frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: again, it will save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fixing the gypsum board along the crate:

1. Installation of a plasterboard partition. Here comments seem to be not required: without a frame, its sheathing simply has nothing to attach to;
2. Laying of communications behind the wall cladding - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than ditching a main wall.

In some cases (for example, when it comes to a panel partition inside an apartment), grooves of significant width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree versus profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has only one merit - cheapness... In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for a bar and a profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, as opposed to galvanized steel, hygroscopic and is also capable of change its linear dimensions and geometry depending on the humidity of the air. On the practical side, this means that in a damp room, the wooden crate can warp and bend the wall lining, or even lead to cracks along its seams.

Finally a tree susceptible to biological influences: it rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanized.

1. Wood frame for drywall can be used only in dry rooms... For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before assembling it must be be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, a simple way to bring the wood closer to the galvanized profile in terms of performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with fluctuations in humidity, a bar is enough saturate with linseed oil: its constituent oils fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• It is better to apply drying oil heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• It is easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with linseed oil with a brush, but to dip into a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
• The drying oil dries for several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying the bar, it is better to allocate a separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the wood frame for drywall going from?

It was not for nothing that I cited a 50x50 millimeter bar as an example of the price of a crate: it is he who is the most popular material for assembling the frames of partitions and battens (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from a 50x100 bar; the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how the maximum resistance to lateral loading is achieved.

Finally, when installing the wall sheathing, edged and unedged boards of any width can be used. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails in wooden chops.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the lathing on suspensions - yes.

The wood must not have any defects from the following list:

• Rot and damage by woodworms;
• Oblique (significant deviation of the direction of the wood grain from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Drop knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the bar.

The instruction is due to the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the tree should not exceed 20%: when drying, the bar often warps.

Frame installation rules

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with marking the lines for attaching the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as the extreme racks on the adjoining walls. To keep the lines strictly in the same plane, use a plumb line.

Then to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls, the bars of the harness and end posts are attached. A damper tape is laid under them, eliminating the transmission of acoustic vibrations to the capital structures of the building and thereby contributing to sound insulation. Anchor bolts or ordinary dowel screws can be used to fasten the harness and uprights to the walls.

The next stage is the installation of the racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the stiffness of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) should be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

The edges of adjacent sheets, if possible, should be attached to a common frame or lathing element for them. In this case, the likelihood of cracking along the seams is minimal.

The connections of the racks with the straps do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the sheathing of the partition, drywall, therefore, any methods of fastening the racks are permissible:

• Nails or screws hammered in or wrapped at an angle to the rack;
• An insert from a trim bar, which is attached to the harness, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated plates;
• Furniture corners;
• Inset of half-wood racks with glue landing. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with linseed oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive properties of the glue.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized joiner's adhesives and ordinary PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; drying of the glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden frame of a partition?

1. In the lower trim, a pass is made for the width of the door with a frame;
2. The door leaf is wedged in the frame with wooden wedges. The goal is to leave, after installation, gaps that do not allow the door to overwrite the jambs;
3. A rack adjacent to the box is mounted from one of the edges of the doorway;
4. A strip of polyurethane foam is applied to the outer surface of the box, after which it is attracted to the rack with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected such that they go deeper into the box, but do not go through it;
5. On the second side of the opening, the second post is mounted in the same way;
6. From above, the racks are connected with a jumper;
7. All connections of the racks with straps are reinforced with galvanized strips on self-tapping screws.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is installed in the same way - with the amendment that its frame rests on a horizontal lintel between the posts.

Lathing on suspensions

How to assemble a wooden lathing for wall cladding with significant irregularities with drywall with your own hands?

1. In this case, the assembly of the frame also begins with attaching the lower and upper straps to the floor and ceiling. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of fastening the harnesses is the same as in the above scenario;
2. Then, the extreme posts are attached to the adjoining walls through the damper fly;
3. On the main wall strictly vertically, along a plumb line, the positions of the intermediate racks are marked (recall, with a step of 40 or 60 cm from the center to the center of the bar);
4. Along each rack with a pitch of 80 cm, direct suspensions are attached with dowel screws;
5. The racks are set according to the markings, after which the ears of the suspensions are screwed to them with self-tapping screws for wood 25 mm long. The free part of the ears is bent towards the wall. The frame is ready for sheathing.

Lathing on gaskets

With a relatively small curvature of the wall, the lathing can be attached to it without suspensions, using gaskets made of scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a block, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be cut into narrow planks or a block with a conventional hand-held circular saw with a guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The lathing is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails into pre-drilled holes with wooden chops. The bottom harness is absent as such; instead of it, short bars are attracted to the gap between the racks of the lathing to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple one-level flow is mounted in the same way as the lathing on straight hangers - adjusted for the location in the horizontal plane. To create a frame of curved elements of a multilevel flow, thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used; when sheathing, the gypsum board is attracted by self-tapping screws to its end.

Sheathing

How to mount drywall on a wooden frame?

For wall cladding, 12.5 mm thick wall plasterboard is used. The ceiling is usually sheathed with 9.5 mm thick plasterboard. In dry rooms, ordinary gypsum board (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be sequentially impregnated with antiseptic and drying oil.

Self-tapping screws for wood with a length of 32 mm are used to fasten the sheet. The length of the self-tapping screws exceeds that used for mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; the average consumption of fasteners is 100 self-tapping screws per sheet size 2500x1200.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under the seam perpendicular to the uprights. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (12 mm or more) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to the common frame element.

Where the wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a bar under the transverse seam. In his absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers... GKL of the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of gypsum board is mounted with bandaging of horizontal and vertical seams; for fastening, self-tapping screws for wood with a length of 45 mm are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut the gypsum board to the desired size?

• Curved parts are cut with a jigsaw with a wood saw. GCR is cut by it very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for bearings of cooling systems of computers and laptops, therefore, during the repair, they must be kept off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along straight lines, the plasterboard is cut with a sharp knife along a ruler by a quarter of the thickness, after which it is broken at the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the sheets cut to size are embroidered: a chamfer is removed from the edges with a sharp one at an angle of 45 degrees by half the thickness of the sheet.

Reinforcement and puttying

A wall or partition sheathed with plasterboard is not yet ready for finishing: the caps of the screws and the seams between the sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

For the reinforcement of seams, it is traditionally used serpyanka- self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. It is necessary to putty at least twice: gypsum putty gives a slight, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

Outside corners are reinforced:

• Galvanized perforated corner profile;
• Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is recessed in the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner glued to the silicone sealant after filling and painting to protect the corners.

The photo shows the corner of the partition, protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What type of filler should be used to level the surface?

The most widespread in Russia are gypsum putties produced by the German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common ABS Saten: the mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, it can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when mixed.

How to properly prepare the putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture is poured into a wide bowl (I use a plastic paint bucket);
2. The mixture is poured into water, spreading as evenly as possible over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a drill mixer.

How and how to properly putty the seams, corners and caps of self-tapping screws?

• The hats are covered with two movements of a 10-12 cm wide spatula crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the groove with putty, the second ("on the sdir") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with a cruciform movement of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracking. With the second pass, the seam, together with the serpentine reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of a spatula 30 - 35 cm wide;

• For leveling the outer and inner corners, it is better to use special corner spatulas.

After filling the seams and masking the caps of the fasteners, the gypsum board is often putty over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick finally masks the seams and does not allow the base to shine through the painting.

Next stage - grinding... GKL grind with mesh No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is best to sand in bright oblique lighting, which will accentuate the slightest irregularities due to the shadows cast by them. I use an inexpensive vibratory sander for sanding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be carried out after filling the seams and sealing the self-tapping screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of the gypsum board is dedusted (I clean it from dust with a regular broom) and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will adhere the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the drywall surface and the finishing coat - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will shine through any number of layers of paint due to the moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, the video in this article will offer you additional information. Feel free to share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

September 28, 2016

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