Mulching fruit trees. Preparing trees for winter: basic autumn procedures. Video: an example of mulching tomatoes with plant residues

Early and unexpected frosts pose the most serious danger to garden plants, since they have not yet had time to adapt to low temperatures and are easily damaged. But it is very easy to insure against such unpleasant surprises - it is enough to carry out the autumn mulching of trees and bushes in your garden.

The roots of plants are especially affected by frost. To protect the soil in the near-trunk circles, the soil must be dug shallowly and mulched. For this purpose, both organic and inorganic materials are used.

The former include humus, compost, spruce and pine, the latter, in turn, include crushed stone, expanded clay, gravel, etc. The indisputable advantage of organic is that over time it rotts, mixes with the soil and not only protects, but also nourishes the plantings.

After mulching, a mound should appear around the trunk, but not so high. This is an example of an incorrect procedure.

However, the use of sour peat and needles provoke an increase in the acidity of the garden soil. Therefore, these substrates are mainly mulched trees and shrubs, which grow better on slightly acidic or even acidic soil.

Inorganic materials are more durable, but some of them, similar to organic matter, have a significant effect on the acidity of the soil, its mechanical and chemical composition... For example, it is recommended to cover the soil with a layer of gravel and crushed limestone in rock gardens and rockeries, because plants that prefer an alkaline environment are most often cultivated in them.

The very technology of mulching garden trees and bushes is carried out as follows:

a circle is drawn around the trunk of a tree or bush, the diameter of which is half or two-thirds of the diameter of its crown.
then in the inner part of the circle sod and weeds are removed, a layer of soil with a depth of 15 to 20 centimeters for shrubs and 20 to 25 centimeters for trees is removed.
the roots are carefully dug in, and the bottom of the resulting hole is loosened with a pitchfork either.
the surface of the earth is leveled and tamped a little, and the pit is filled with mulching material (preferably organic).
in the last turn, the soil, which was previously selected from the pit, is returned to the place.

Please note that for coniferous crops, the diameter of the circle should be made the same as the diameter of the crown or even more. The optimal mulch mixture for these plants is their own needles mixed with sour peat.

Of course, in large gardens it is simply unrealistic to insulate all plants in this way, so I advise you to first protect those varieties and species for which the minimum is characteristic. In addition, if the soil in your area is light and clean of weeds, then there is no need to dig a hole and pick soil out of it, but you just need to loosen it and sprinkle it with a 15-20 cm layer of mulch.

Fruit trees, like other cultivated garden plants, need preparation for winter. Novice gardeners have questions about when to whitewash the trunks, whether it is necessary to cover the trees for the winter, than to spray them to get rid of diseases. We will try to answer them in our article.

Pest control

First of all, take a good look at the trunks of your fruit trees: if they have "winter apartments" spider mite, plum moth, apple caterpillar and others, then they need to be peeled off on thick paper and burned.

Those insects that plan to winter in the near-trunk circle will die from frost if you dig up the soil. For the prevention of diseases and pests, it is necessary to treat all the skeletal branches of trees with a solution of ferrous sulfate for the winter.

Painting trees for the winter protects them from rodents and various diseases such as lichen and scab. It is also necessary to whitewash the trunks so that they do not overheat in the sun during the day and do not cool down at night.

You can also cover tree trunks with spruce branches and kraft paper to protect trees from rodents. How to wrap trees for the winter: we cut the paper into strips 30 cm wide and wrap it up on the trunk, after which we tie it with spruce branches (construction bag).

Mulching tree trunks

Preparing fruit trees for winter also consists in mulching - organizing a kind of fur coat to keep warm in the trunk circle. First, you need to loosen the soil to a depth of about 5 cm - loose soil freezes less. Then we put 10-20 cm of mulch. It can be peat, compost, humus, sand, sawdust. This should be done before persistent cold weather sets in.

When snow falls, it is thrown into the trunk circle and trampled down well - this serves as additional thermal protection.

Today we will talk about different types mulch. How to mulch correctly with grass, straw, fallen leaves? How to cook your own mulch? What's the best for mulching strawberries?

Mulch in our understanding is, first of all, saving the soil from drying out. This is true, and three times true for the hot steppes. Earlier I wrote that it is impossible to live in the south without mulch, the soil dries up without it! In fact, it is impossible without it both in the rainy Non-Black Earth Region and in cold Siberia.

It is she who protects the soil from erosion by rainstorms. It is the organic matter of mulch that is the main source of carbon dioxide for photosynthesis and food for soil animals. It is mulch that protects the soil from temperature surges. During the day, it reflects the extra heat of the sun, and at night it stores the warmth of the root layer. It is only under the mulch that dew settles and goes to work, prolonging the effect of rain.

But first, I'll touch on the "non-organic" mulch.

We use mulch from black film only for strawberries - we put it once for three years, spreading organic matter under it. Without a good dose of organic matter, it makes no sense to lay a film: the soil will not improve.

Advantages of film mulch: moisture retains much longer, there are almost no weeds. Cons: it is not nutritious, not mobile, does not allow planting, compact planting. For densely sitting greens and root crops, it is not applicable at all.

In summer, the black film heats up. In the damp north, in Siberia, this is only beneficial. In our country, the film has to be covered with straw: already in June it "gets hot" up to 70 ° С. And to be honest, I am very reluctant to pull plastic out of the garden almost every year. But this is how anyone.

Of course, in Europe, and especially in Israel, mulch film is the basis of high-tech production. But the mulch films there are brought to mind: the right width, with holes, reflective and long-lived. And even with a yellow seamy side - it turns out that weed shoots die better this way. And now they are already biodegradable. Under them is a dose of organic matter and irrigation tapes, periodically supplying nutrient solutions with water. It's smart for the desert, and there is no other way out. For poor sandy loam and sand - also a radical way out, if you have money.

My main goal is the natural fertility of the soil. Therefore, my constant mulch - plant residues: straw, grass from mowers, foliage and shredded branches. It is laid after the beds have warmed up, when the seedlings of tomato-cucumbers have taken root and arose, and juicy weeds torn out during planting, the remnants of greenery and radishes, fresh grass - a gift to worms just fall under it.

Here, for example, a young currant bush was cut to enhance growth. Under it lay 4–5 kg of fresh grass. Until August it will be eaten by worms. Imagine what kind of work they will do!

Straw we take the baled one. It keeps weeds better than others. Bright, reflects light and does not heat up - this is an important plus for the south. Easy to lay in layers. It decomposes slowly over a year.

If you want to speed up the decay - sprinkle with a solution of sugar and urea, a glass on a bucket of water. It is the "fuel" for the cellulose-degrading microbes.

Traditionally strawberries are mulched with straw, in English - strawberry, "straw berry". All my beds usually go in the winter under mulch, covered with a thick blanket. Having removed the mulch in spring, I can sow and plant with my hands - the soil is perfectly prepared.

It is especially useful to cover the trampled autumn green manure with straw. By the spring, little is left of him. V mandatory and all the aisles and paths in the garden are constantly covered with straw - here the roots also feed and find moisture.

I can't help but mention: potatoes under the straw... This method is successfully used by many. Warming up a little and loosening the garden with a pitchfork, sprinkle humus, compost, any nutritious organic matter on it. Put straw on top in a loose layer of 10-15 cm. With our hand we make passages in the straw and press the pieces of seed tubers with sprouts into the soil. We leave the holes so that the sprouts quickly get out.

We got out - we rake in the bushes so that the light does not pass to the soil. It's all. No need to spud, weed - almost the same. It is necessary to water well twice: at the time of budding and at the end of flowering. We harvest at the beginning of the yellowing of the tops. You don't have to dig: the tubers are right under the straw, clean.

Lawn Mower Hopper Grass- perhaps the most ideal mulch for garden beds. It is nutritious, contains a lot of nitrogen and attracts crowds of worms. It cakes quickly in a dense layer and keeps weeds well. It's always damp underneath. Open from April until the end of the season. Replenished with mowing. It disintegrates completely during the winter. It's completely free.

Dry foliage- the same as straw, but more nutritious, and packs more densely - a real blanket. Knowledgeable people foliage is stored in cubic meters. Any one is suitable, except for oak and walnut - it is better to lie on the sidelines for a year: they are too rich in aggressive tannins. The beds hibernate well under the foliage.

All this organic matter gradually decomposes, is eaten and dragged into the soil, where it feeds both microbes and plants, and in the end is humified.

Shredded branches- super mulch. For several years I have been happily preparing it using an MTD rotary chopper, but I recognized and appreciated it only after I got acquainted with the developments of the Canadians.

It turns out that hardwood branches are thinner than 5 cm - just a warehouse of sugars, pectin, amino acids and vitamins. Wood fiber is a bonus and material for creating a particularly durable, high-quality humus. Indeed, forest soils are very fertile. Now it's clear why.

I mainly grind fruit branches, and not thicker than a finger. They are especially rich in sugars and proteins. The layer also compresses, retains moisture well and cuts off weeds. At the same time, the rug of small chips is very pleasing to the eye.

Leafy branches from summer pruning are especially good. A real food warehouse! Before chopping, the leaves must be dried, otherwise the chopper periodically slips, clogging up with a juicy mass. A pile of chopped branches with leaves begins to burn inside on the second or third day. The branches grow twice a year, and also completely free.

Which shredder is the best for branches? Better the one to which spare knives are sold! Take two spare kits at once. And advice: never grind dry tree branches. The machine is not designed for them! The knives will immediately become dull. Dry branches - for fire only. Exceptions are dry shoots of blackberries, maiden grapes and honeysuckle, thin willow branches, stems of weigela, buddlei, corn and other "hollow bodies".

Comment on the article "How to mulch the beds for the winter? Do it yourself mulch"

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On the technique of mulching the trunks of fruit trees and berry bushes, garden beds, you can say a lot and reasonably, but still experience tells us better ways its application. There are also disadvantages. Let's figure it out.

What agronomic requirements can we place on the mulch that we use for our garden and garden crops? First, it should not give free rein to the weeds - endless tedious weeding in tree-trunk circles fruit crops, berry bushes and vegetable beds is familiar to all land users. This means that the mulch should be quite dense, but at the same time freely allow atmospheric air to pass to the roots, root collar and stem of the plant. At the same time, it should not prevent the release of hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide and other compounds harmful to the plant from the soil. Skilled gardeners know that the soil itself and the mulch on it must breathe. Good mulch should also give additional food plant and protect it from disease and weather.

But is there such a perfect mulch in everyday life? I guess it's compost. He is with us today - the main organic fertilizer... It turns out - you need to prepare compost on your land. There are opportunities for this. But in our SNT, only five owners have their land plots composts are visible. Other gardeners prefer to dispose of components suitable for preparing high-quality compost, which is suitable for fertilization and mulching, in a landfill, littering gardening, or burned.

When to prepare the above compost? The best time for this - the days of late spring, summer, early autumn months, when there is still heat - with it, the decomposition of plant residues by soil microorganisms and microflora, the processes of mineralization and fermentation are faster in the compost.

In conclusion, we list other types of mulch. This is, first of all, straw with a layer of 10-15 cm, which then settles down to 4-6 cm. Mulching of tree trunks and shrubs with tops of previously harvested potato varieties. For strawberries, mulching between rows with rotted sawdust, weathered peat, fallen leaves. For tree trunks, the "live mulch" is also good - the bent weevil.

I. Krivega

(Gardener No. 25, 2011)

What is mulching

The word "mulch" is translated from English as covering with manure, straw. Mulching is the covering of the free soil surface around the plants with a protective organic layer or film. Unfortunately, this technique is rarely used on garden plots, but in vain! Mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil, protects it from wind and sun, relieves you from weeding, reduces the amount of watering, and also prevents the surface layer from hardening and crusting. And last but not least - mulching gives the plantings a beautiful and well-groomed look.

What can be used as mulch? The first group of mulching materials is film and fibrous materials. For mulching, use a foil 0.03-0.06 mm thick and 100-120 cm wide. Spread the foil on the surface of the soil, and sprinkle the edges with earth. Leave 30-50 cm of uncovered soil between the strips of film. Heat-loving crops (cucumbers, tomatoes) grow especially well with this mulching, as well as all plants in cold summers with little rainfall.

Vegetables and strawberries are best mulched with black perforated film or black fibrous material. Cabbage grows well on mulch white, for tomatoes the most suitable mulch is red.

The next group is organic materials. Mulching with organic materials benefits all vegetable and ornamental crops... The mulch layer stimulates the reproduction of earthworms and beneficial soil microflora, which in turn improves the structure of the soil and increases its fertility. Thanks to soil microorganisms, within one year of mulching, a layer of humus is formed with a thickness of 0.5 cm.

For mulching the vegetable garden and garden, use chopped green fertilizers, residues cultivated plants, weeds (without seeds), grass, hay, straw, manure, leaves, chopped bark and cones, lawn mowed grass, sawdust, peat, fallen leaves.

Grind plant residues from the garden before mulching, you can mix them with green fertilizers. This mulch can be used to cover any surfaces in the garden.

Leaves of trees and shrubs can also be chopped before use, but not necessary. Hay (especially meadow hay) is a very valuable raw material for mulch. You can use straw either alone or in combination with other organic materials, semi-rotted manure. But it is impossible to mulch the ground with rotten straw immediately before sowing, since it contains substances that inhibit the growth of plants.

Use kitchen waste only after composting. Oilcake, according to the experience of vegetable growers, is the ideal mulch for gardens, just cover it with a layer of moist plant material. But the needles are acidic and therefore can be used for plants that prefer acidic soil, such as rhododendrons and heather. And mulch from the leaves and stems of tomatoes scares away the cabbage whitewash.

The paths in the garden are most often lined with sawdust, sprinkling them with a layer 5 cm thick. To accelerate their decomposition, nitrogen fertilizer can be added (at the rate of 50 g of nitrogen per 1 m2). A small pieces wood or bark - high quality and sufficient decorative material for filling up permanent paths in the garden or vegetable garden. Under the layer of bark (pieces of wood), you can put a layer of fibrous material, but in no case a film.

When and how to mulch? It's simple, carry out the first mulching immediately after sowing (planting) the plants, after watering them abundantly. Replenish the mulch layer as it warms up, but not more often than once every 2 weeks. If you mulch crops, mark the sprouting spots with sand or mature compost, and cover the row spacing with a layer of mulch of 2-10 cm, depending on the crop. On the clay soils lay the mulch in a layer no thicker than 2 cm and repeat the procedure as necessary (for example, every 2-3 weeks), since in rainy weather Bottom part mulch starts to rot. The results of mulching heavy soils do not appear immediately - only after 2-3 years, when the soil structure will noticeably improve. On light soils and in arid regions, the layer of mulch may be greater.

O. Mironova

(Gardener No. 20, 2012)

Mulch and mulching

Mulching is covering the free surface of the soil in the beds, between the rows of strawberries and between the trees with a protective layer of chopped organic materials, as well as film, sand, slag and other similar materials.

Under natural conditions in the forest, fallen leaves and needles play the role of mulching materials, and in the field - sod, which for many years form a layer of litter that is unique in its capabilities.

And in the garden and in the garden, many materials can be used as mulch - humus, manure, peat, rotted compost, sawdust, leaves, crushed green fertilizers, straw, plastic wrap etc. It all depends on your capabilities and views on the need for this procedure on the site.

A good, well-chosen mulch will do a lot for you. First of all, it dramatically affects the heat balance of the soil. The soil temperature under mulch is on average 3-4 degrees higher than on open bed... At the same time, sharp daily fluctuations in soil temperature decrease, protects it from excessive overheating in hot summers and from severe hypothermia in a harsh and snowless winter.

And for growing thermophilic crops in cold climates, only dark-colored mulch should be used, which gives an even more significant effect.

Mulch protects the soil from excessive moisture evaporation. No soil crust will ever form under any mulch layer. In addition, mulch protects the soil from erosion by surface waters.

And organic mulch, among other things, improves the structure of the soil, provides plants with nutrients, promotes good development root system in plants. In addition, decomposing, the mulch releases carbon dioxide into the ground layer, which is an additional fertilizing for the plants.

Mulching the soil inhibits the growth and development of certain pests and diseases. So, sawdust mulch scares away slugs, tomato leaf mulch scares off cabbage whites, etc.

And yet, with a great many important advantages that mulch has in comparison with the traditional Russian completely weeded and loosened bed, it is very important to choose exactly the type of mulching material that is best suited for the purpose you need.

Mulch from natural material if put in a thick enough layer, it will quickly suppress the growth of annual weeds with roots located on the soil surface. But before putting such mulch on the soil, all perennial weeds must be carefully weeded out by the roots. Otherwise, they are in favorable conditions will grow as luxuriantly as cultivated plants.

Another way to quickly deal with perennial weeds is to cover the ground with a black film with holes, and put mulch from natural material on top. The holes in the film are needed so that the first heavy rain does not wash away the mulch lying on top of the film.

As in any business, mulching has its own rules that must be followed. If you plant in early spring, then you have to wait until the soil warms up, and only then mulch it. And when autumn planting on the contrary, the soil should be mulched immediately after planting.

In arid areas, the soil should be mulched as early as possible in order to fully retain snow and rainwater... And in highly humid areas, on the contrary, you should not rush to mulching so that the soil can dry out.

Now let's talk very briefly about useful properties different types mulch to better use it on your site.

Manure... Well-rotted manure gradually mixes with the soil and fertilizes it. Even not completely rotted manure (but by no means fresh) serves as an excellent mulch. A fresh manure must be kept for at least three months before use.

Compost compost... It consists of all kinds of plant debris (grass cuttings, weeds, wilted flowers), as well as food waste collected in a heap for decay over several months. In addition to the properties inherent in any mulch, it has the ability to ennoble the soil, enriching it with nutrients. It should be scattered in a layer of 3-5 cm around the plants and along the rows.

Compost, along with manure, is the best organic mulch because beneficial microorganisms in it, allow you to control soil pathogens. In addition, there is no need to remove the compost mulch at the end of the season because it will rot completely. But it is imperative to ensure that plants that have been treated with herbicides do not get into the compost.

Coniferous needles... The needles are convenient for mulching, decorative, practically free. It has a high physiological activity. Such a coniferous coating will not be blown away by the wind. It holds well in place, but tends to acidify the soil. Therefore, it should not be used for mulching crops that do not tolerate high acidity.

By the way, to use the needles, it is not at all necessary to cut it off with green, you can completely do with fallen needles, since it does not lose its useful properties.

Shredded leaves - It is a suitable "insulating" material for the roots of most crops. They are a nutrient-rich mulch, a great source of humus, but must be chopped up. If this is not done, they will dry out and scatter, and in rainy weather they can create a waterproof layer through which moisture cannot penetrate to the roots of plants.

Chopped bark ... This mulch is very attractive to look at, suitable both for decoration and for mulching. It persists for a very long time, suppresses the growth of weeds and, over time, as it decomposes, enriches the soil with humus. It is desirable to use it to suppress weeds around perennial herbs.

However, the bark contains little nutrients and binds nitrogen in the soil. Therefore, plants mulched with bark need nitrogen feeding. It should also be borne in mind that the bark acidifies the soil and for most crops you have to add additional lime or ash.

Weeds... If there are not enough plant materials for mulching, then for these purposes you can use the weeds growing on the site - burdock, horsetail, plantain, dandelion, runny, etc. But at the same time, it is necessary that they pre-wilted and be well crushed. This mulch can also serve as a good top dressing at the same time.

It is very effective to add chopped nettle to such mulch, which repels slugs, and valerian, which attracts earthworms. Such mulch retains moisture well, prevents weeds from growing, decomposing: it serves as a fertilizer.

Black plastic wrap ... Such a film warms the soil well and suppresses the growth of weeds. It can be put on the garden bed several weeks before sowing to warm the soil well.

Plants are planted through holes cut in the foil. But this coating must be pressed along the edges with bricks or sprinkled with earth. But it is undesirable to use it for mulching the soil under bushes, because however, their roots will grow too close to the soil surface. Quite often, plastic wrap is used as a bedding for any other mulch.

At the same time, this film does not allow the earth to breathe, does not allow water to pass through. In addition, ants often settle under it.

Non-woven fabric ... The black non-woven fabric prevents weeds from growing. The soil underneath breathes and does not compact. Perfect material for mulching, but expensive.

Straw... It is a very good mulch, although it can easily bring in weed seeds from the fields. It is especially good for mulching strawberry beds.

It is best to put straw in a layer of up to 10 cm. And if the straw is thoroughly chopped, then it will very well scare away slugs and snails. During decomposition, straw binds nitrogen in the soil. Therefore, straw-mulched plants need additional nitrogen fertilization.

Gravel, pebbles, stones ... Around the trunks of trees or potted plants, they are not only decorative but also help to retain moisture. But over time, they "go" into the ground, and after a while weeds appear in the intervals between them.

Stones or a layer of pebbles will be more effective remedy against weeds, if you put a perforated black film under them. The holes in the foil will allow rainwater to enter the soil.

The sand retains moisture well, inhibits the growth of weeds. But over time, it mixes with the soil and to preserve its decorative effect, it has to be constantly poured.

If you have heavy soils in your garden, then organic mulch is best mixed with river sand... This technique is especially effective on airtight soils (clay, heavy loam).

And when using sawdust or chopped straw as mulch, additional nitrogen fertilizers to compensate for nitrogen losses as a result of their decomposition.

And the last thing. Contrary to popular belief, mulching the soil in the garden and vegetable garden significantly reduces labor costs for its maintenance.

V.G.Shafransky

One of the basic techniques that any farmer must master is soil mulching. In the garden, mulch has many functions to help preserve the soil. But any agrotechnical technique becomes useful only with a competent approach. In the article we will talk about mulching trees and bushes in the garden, consider the main methods.

The biological meaning of soil mulching

Mulching is covering the surface of the treated soil with a layer of organic or inorganic material. In nature, there is no bare ground under the trees. It is always covered with fallen leaves or covered with growing grass. This natural mechanism has the following functions:

protects the soil from erosion;
prevents evaporation of moisture from the upper layers;
improves air exchange, preventing the appearance of soil crust;
protects plant roots from overheating in the heat and from freezing in winter;
becomes a barrier to the penetration of insect pests and pathogenic microorganisms;
becomes a source of carbon dioxide and nutrients for plants;
increases the activity of beneficial soil flora and fauna.

Observing nature, people began to intuitively use this soil protection mechanism, using different means... Depending on the materials used, mulching is divided into two types - organic and inorganic.

Mulching as an agricultural technique originated from observations of nature.

3 mistakes when using mulch in the garden

Wanting to benefit their trees, gardeners sometimes make a number of mistakes:

Leaves fallen from fruit trees are used as mulch. Leaf litter can be infected with spores of pathogenic fungi. Instead of being beneficial, such mulch harms the garden, becoming a source of infection.
Lay the mulch on unheated soil. Mulching materials absorb the sun's rays and prevent the soil from warming up in spring.
Lay a thick layer of mulch in wet weather. In a rainy spring or summer, putrefactive bacteria develop in waterlogged mulch that can damage the bark of trees and shrubs.

Tip # 1. Sometimes a thick layer of caked mulch becomes dense and loses breathability. Such mulching will also not do the garden any good. It is necessary to stir up the mulch from time to time, and comb the soil under it with a rake.

Mulching trees with organic materials

For mulching tree trunks in fruit garden various natural materials can be used:

Mulch material	Advantages	Flaws
Mown lawn grass	The most affordable type of mulch. Contains a lot of nitrogen and, when decomposed, becomes a good food for trees. It activates the activity of soil microorganisms.	If the grass has managed to seed, it cannot be used. In the undried green mass, slugs and snails are often found.
Chopped nettle	Decomposes very quickly. Contains a lot of nitrogen and potassium. Scares away slugs and snails, suppresses pathogenic microorganisms.	Not detected.
Chopped straw or hay	Suppresses the growth of pathogenic microorganisms, does not cause waterlogging. Scares away slugs and snails.	Attracts mice and other rodents that can damage tree bark. It flies in windy weather. Often contains weed seeds.
Needles and cones	Prevents the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Remains friable, does not cake. Scares away slugs and snails. Gives decorative effect to the garden.	Acidifies the soil. Contains few nutrients.
Bark and chips	Suppresses the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Does not cake. Insulates well root system in winter. Scares away slugs and snails. Gives decorative effect to the garden.	It decomposes for a long time and acidifies the soil. During decomposition, it takes nitrogen from the soil.
Peat	It retains moisture well and insulates the root system. When decomposed, it forms a lot of humus. Activates beneficial soil flora.	In hot weather, it contributes to overheating of the soil. In hot weather, forms a crust, impairing air exchange.
Compost	Perfectly nourishes trees, activates soil flora and the activity of earthworms. Does not cake. Keeps moisture well.	Not detected.
Rotten manure	Contains a large number of nitrogen. Decomposes quickly, emits a lot of carbon dioxide. It activates soil flora and the work of earthworms.	May contain weed seeds. It loses a lot of nitrogen without embedding in soil.

Mulching trees with inorganic mulch

Inorganic materials used for mulching have significantly fewer functions than organics. Inorganic mulch only protects the soil from erosion and moisture loss. The following materials can be used to mulch the trunks of garden trees and shrubs:

Mulch material	Advantages	Flaws
Polyethylene film	Keeps moisture well. Suppresses the growth of weeds. The black film contributes to the rapid heating of the soil. The latest color and photoselective films have a positive effect on the yield of low-growing shrubs.	Creates a greenhouse effect, overheating the soil in the summer. Ants and slugs grow under the films. Difficulties arise with root feeding of trees.
Agrotextile (spunbond, agrospan, lutrasil, etc.)	Good water and air permeability. Does not cause soil overheating. Black mulching textiles promote rapid soil heating in spring.	Limits the possibility of root dressing.
Cardboard	Suppresses the growth of weeds well. Permeates rainwater. Decomposes.	In the heat, it draws water from the soil. Low decorative effect. Slugs collect under the cardboard and mold forms.
Expanded clay, gravel and crushed stone	Water and air permeable. Builds up solar heat and reduces temperature fluctuations. Gives a decorative look.	Overgrown with weeds that are inconvenient to weed out. Limits the possibility of root dressing.
Sackcloth	Permeates water and air, does not overheat the soil. Suppresses the growth of weeds.	Poor moisture retention. Low decorative effect.

To give the garden a special decorative effect, you can use colored rubble for mulching.

Mulching the garden by tinning

One of the options for mulching fruit plantations is growing under and between trees lawn grass... This method is called tinning. Tinned soil naturally retains moisture and all the qualities of fertility.

It is important to keep in mind that full tinning is only suitable in an adult garden. Around the seedlings, it is still necessary to leave the near-stem circle without grass, mulching it with something else.

By applying this method, you should pay attention to the mulching of the lawn itself. The soil on it also needs care. Good help a mulching lawn mower will do just that. It transforms the cut grass into a fine cut and spreads it evenly over the grass between the trees.

A good and inexpensive mulching mower is produced by Greenworks. For example, model 2505107 has a grass catcher. With its help, you can collect ready-made mulch and sprinkle it around the trees yourself. One more worthy option in terms of value for money - the Champion LM4215 mower.

How to properly mulch trees and bushes?

When mulching near-trunk circles, you must adhere to the following rules:

Do not push the mulch close to the root collar. An indent of 5-10 cm is necessary so that the neck does not decay and decay.
Carry out spring mulching after warming up the soil at a depth of 20 cm to + 12-14⁰С.
In autumn, replace undecomposed organic mulch with peat or sawdust.
Using cut grass as mulch, it must be pre-dried.
Spread mulch only on wet soil - after rain or watering. Read also the article: → "".

How to water mulched soil

If a material that is permeable to water is used, water should be done directly through the mulch cover. It is curious that mulched soil has to be watered much less frequently than open soil. This is due to the mechanism of the so-called "autowatering": warm air under the mulch is cooled, and water vapor falls out of it in the form of dew.

To prevent thick layers of organic mulch from moldy from moisture, they need to be agitated from time to time. EM preparations will help decompose the biomass into components more quickly and prevent it from rotting.

Tip # 2. You can accelerate the mineralization of organic matter by mixing mulch with mineral fertilizers.

How to feed on mulched soil

Using organic mulch reduces the need for regular tree feeding. Mulch itself is an excellent nitrogen supplement. You can add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in spring and summer:

Name	Feeding time
"AVA"	The beginning of sap flow
"Kafom K"	Before or after flowering
"Fertika Autumn"