Warm electric floors - types of systems, characteristics, installation features. Installation of electric underfloor heating: cable and film infrared Film type of heating

About floor heating in recent times think more and more often. This is dictated by both practical and aesthetic considerations: the absence of a radiator gives free rein to design imagination. Stores presented big choice products for underfloor heating, they all have different characteristics and can be designed for both the main and additional source heat. The most interesting here are electric underfloor heating, the use of which is virtually unlimited.

Thermal conditions in the room

In any room, be it an apartment or an office, there is natural circulation air. Warm air rises and cold air sinks. During the heating season, when a radiator is hanging on the wall, the air flow is directed upward from the battery, then it goes around the room on the ceiling, and already cooled air descends downward.

This situation cannot be called comfortable. It turns out that it is cold on the floor, but there is nothing to breathe. Residents of the first floors feel this problem most acutely, especially in houses without a basement. In this case, the flow rate of the coolant can be increased, and the heating bills are large.

A warm floor can change this state of affairs. Breathing will be much easier, and your feet will be warm. This is especially important if there are children in the house who love to crawl on the floor. Carpets used to solve the problem of cold floors, but this source of dust and allergies is not suitable for everyone.

Types of warm floors

Today there is three ways to heat floors:

1. water;
2. electric;
3. combined.

In this case, the first one works from central or autonomous heating in the house, and the second and third - from electricity.

Pros and cons of water heating

Underfloor heating pipe - very economical option... For this, both plastic and copper can be used, but even if the cost of the pipes is more expensive than the cable, you will save on costs. Say what you like, but the cost of a kilowatt-hour is now great. And if you have your own boiler room, then you will save on fuel: when heating the floor, there is no need to heat the coolant to high temperatures.

There are two disadvantages of such floors. So, for their installation in apartment building approval is required, because when you change the position of the heater, the flow rate of the coolant changes throughout the house.

But the main disadvantage is that such a system is not guaranteed to be secure. Pipes tend to burst, especially in systems central heating, where its seasonal launch is accompanied by water hammer with an increase in temperature. But it's one thing when you have a radiator that is in plain sight, and a pipe hidden under the screed is quite another. You will not only have to open the floor, but also pay for repairs to the neighbors below. Thus, the water floor will be safe in a country house.

Electric floors

Electric floor heating is another matter. Here you are not limited either legally or economically. Of course, the calculation here has its own subtleties, which are often neglected. But if you get down to business wisely, you can make an electric floor as an additional source of heat, as well as the main one. How much it meets your expectations depends on several factors:

1. power consumption;
2. thermal conductivity of the flooring;
3. heat capacity;
4. efficiency of heat transfer to the interior of the room.

Often, disappointment comes not from the product itself, but due to its incorrect installation and the lack of ideas about what system to lay under what.

Features of heat transfer of a warm coating

The flooring in the house can be arranged in the form plank floor on logs and pie with screed... In the first case, the tree serves good heat insulator but a poor conductor of heat. The need for floor heating in a house with wood floors rarely occurs: they are warm in themselves. Of course, you can lay both pipes and a cable under them, but then you will not heat the floor, but the space under it, the air. Boards from this can add a couple of degrees, but they will disappear when you just decide to set the thermostat to zero. Thus, the installation of an electric underfloor heating under wooden floors is impractical.

Another thing is a cement screed. It serves as a kind of heat accumulator. Its thickness is about 5 cm, the heat capacity is high, as is the thermal conductivity. Therefore, laying the underfloor heating system in it will be a very good solution.

Among floor coverings, tiles are the best conductors of heat, worse - linoleum and laminate... If we talk about the latter, then they have a limitation on operating temperatures: overheating is dangerous because the coating will begin to collapse and release harmful substances into the air.

Varieties of electrical surfaces

Attention should be paid to systems that are powered by the mains. There are several of them, and you can tell about each separately. Today there are the following types on sale:

1. resistive cable in a coil or in thermomats;
2. self-adjusting carbon rods in mats;
3. two-component film;
4. electrofluidic floors;
5. capillary systems.

Resistive cables

They consist of nichrome in isolation. Nichrome - high resistivity alloy... It is from it that the spiral in the electric stove is made.

Cables can consist of either one core or two. There is no fundamental difference between them, just a single-core cable will have to be pulled twice, and a two-core cable at the end is locked with a special sleeve. There is a slight difference in their internal structure... So, one core has polypropylene insulation, steel wire braid and external flexible plastic insulation, and in a two-core cable each cable has its own insulation, between which a copper drainage core is laid. All this is wrapped with a polyethylene aluminum tape and packed in flexible plastic.

High power cables are sold in coils, and small ones in mats, that is, they are fixed on a mesh and sold in rolls.

Rebar floors

They are also sold in the form of mats, and carbon plays the role of a heating element in them. This material has one useful property - its power consumption depends on temperature. environment... If the resistor always heats up, then carbon is where it is needed. Therefore, such mats can be laid all over the floor, there will be no overheating under the furniture.

Of the advantages of rod mats, two can be noted:

1. efficiency - they consume less electricity;
2. parallel connection of conductors; when one rod fails, the others will continue to work.

The disadvantages include a shorter service life.

Infrared films

The name is not entirely correct - all warm floors give off heat by radiation. Films differ from other types of floors in thickness, they can be laid directly under the covering. There are two types of them - carbon and bimetallic. The first ones are analogous to the rod ones with the only difference that the carbon in them is packed in a lavsan film.

The principle of operation of the latter is interesting in that in other cases people refuse such a natural phenomenon. It is about a combination of copper and aluminum. When it comes to wiring, everyone tries to connect copper and aluminum through terminals, as simple twisting leads to overheating. The fact is that these metals have different coefficients of thermal expansion, and when current passes between the conductors, gaps can appear, and this leads to even greater heating.

This property of metals was used only in the manufacture thermocouples for measuring devices and switches, and now copper and aluminum are enclosed in a polyurethane film, where they serve as a bimetallic heating element.

PEX pipe with cable

This system is a polyethylene pipe with a diameter of two centimeters. Antifreeze is poured into it and a heating cable wrapped in Teflon is laid. Thus, this floor is combined. It has many advantages, the most important of which is economical power consumption. Also, when the electricity is turned off in a house where there is no heating, the liquid in it does not freeze.

Such floors do not overheat, so they can be installed throughout the room without fear for the condition of the furniture and the covering underneath.

Compared to classic hot water heating, the pipe heats up evenly, so you can lay it in any way.

Capillary systems

This is a collection of thin tubes with distilled water, equipped with a heating element and a pump. The control unit of such a floor is the size of a book, but looks quite aesthetically pleasing. Compared to a classic water floor, the amount of liquid in it is small: a few liters. Such a tube is closed with a self-leveling coupler.

The main disadvantage of capillary floors is the limitation on the area that they can heat up. As a rule, it does not exceed 20 square meters. Another drawback is energy consumption: such systems have a power of about 2.5 kW, at the same time, the price for the set itself remains high too.

Installation of underfloor heating

Different types of electric floors are installed at different depths, and it depends both on the shape of the heater and on its power. The larger the heater, the better it should be recessed.

Resistive cable floors in coils are laid under a cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. The same applies to PEX pipes. In order for such a warm floor to warm you, and not your neighbor from below, you need to lay a roll of insulation with a reflective coating under the screed, and lay a reinforcing mesh on it. A cable or pipe is attached to the mesh. So that they do not float during the pouring of the floor, they should be fixed to the mesh with clamps.

Floors made in the form of mats can be covered with a thinner layer of leveler, and the films are laid directly under the covering. In the latter case, it is important that the surface on which the film is laid is flat: small bumps and pits can lead to tearing of the film and its failure.

Underfloor heating installation is usually straightforward. You can do it yourself. But knowing some of the subtleties will not hurt you:

And, of course, if when buying a floor you were given a repair kit for it, do not lose it. After all, most of the malfunctions associated with electric floors are removable.

Electric underfloor heating is popular for its ease of installation and durability. It also does not require the supply of any additional communications, except for electricity, therefore it is successfully used in private construction. It is not difficult to make an electric underfloor heating, its installation does not require special knowledge and takes a little time. Consider the main stages and important nuances that you need to know when installing a warm floor.

Electric underfloor heating is successfully used in absolutely any type of premises. These can be apartment buildings or private houses, garages, baths or loggias. It is only important to correctly select the power of the system and provide sufficient thermal insulation. This method can be used as the only source of space heating. But electricity bills can go up dramatically.

Types of electric underfloor heating (ETP)

All options for organizing such systems are divided into three groups.

1. ETP based on heating wire. The whole system is a thermostat, a temperature sensor and a long double-insulated wire that produces heat. This is the cheapest, but also the most time consuming option. The wire must be laid out on the base floor and fixed in a special mounting tape. It is important to maintain the same distance between the turns of the wire and to avoid kinks and overlaps of the wire.
2. ETP based on heating mats. This option is more convenient in installation, since the wire is factory laid in special reinforcing mats and rigidly fixed in them. You do not need to worry about laying the wires, you just need to unfold the mats of the required power on the base and connect them. This saves a lot of time and reduces the risk of error.
3. ETP based on infrared film. This option is fundamentally different from the previous two. Heating occurs due to infrared radiation of carbon material deposited on a film base. This option does not require the use of a cement screed, the topcoat can be applied directly over the film. However, this is the least reliable and uneconomical ETP option.

Comparative characteristics of cable and film underfloor heating

Signs	Film heating	Cable heating
Utility room	Not necessary	Not necessary
Floor thickness with screed	5-10 mm	50-100 mm
Installation time	1 day	1 day
Ready for operation	Straightaway	28 days
Installation options	Floor, ceiling, walls, any surface	Floor. Mounting on other surfaces is possible, but difficult
Reliability	If even a significant part of the system is damaged, the undamaged segments continue to work.	Any damage to the cable completely breaks down
Repair costs	Minimum	High, 100%
Service	Not required	Not required
Freezing in winter	Absent	Absent
Impact on health	Positive healing	Neutral on condition of good quality two-core cable
Heat distribution and influence on coatings	Uniform heating	Uneven temperature distribution, there are areas of increased temperature
Zoning		Possibility of organizing separate point zones
Expenses	Relatively low initially. Energy saving	Relatively low initial, operational - according to the counter

The principle of operation of the ETP

In the case of heating wires and mats, the conductor heats up under the influence of the electric current... The wire heats the screed, which in turn heats the topcoat. Heating takes place by convection.

In the case of using infrared films, heating occurs by thermal radiation of the carbon layer, which occurs under the action of an electric current. This radiation heats the topcoat and objects close enough to the floor. From them, by convection, the air in the room is heated.

Temperature control is carried out using a temperature sensor and a thermostat through which the heated floor is connected.

How to choose the required power underfloor heating

Before calculating the power, you need to know whether the room will be heated only with the help of the ETP or it will supplement the main heating system, creating additional comfort. Each manufacturer of an ETP in the technical data sheet of its product indicates which capacity must be selected in each case.

For most premises, a value of 120-140 W / m2 is selected as a comfortable ETP based on a heating wire or heating mat. If the ETP is made on the basis of infrared film, then the comfortable value is 150 W / m2.

If the room will be heated only by the ETP, then the value of 160-180 W / m2 for the heating wire or mat is selected, and for the infrared film the power should be equal to 220 W / m2.

If you use a heating mat or infrared film, then the power per square meter is known in advance and you just need to choose suitable option... In the case of using a heating cable, the power will depend on the distance between its turns. You need to know in advance the area and shape of the heating surface, after which, using the tables in the technical passport or instructions, you will determine the required distance. Usually it is 10-30 cm, depending on the power of the cable.

It is important to take into account the maximum possible load on the building's electrical network and to use switchgear rated for the respective load current.

What are the consequences of errors during the installation of the ETP

A common mistake is laying an ETP under massive furniture and household appliances... Insufficient cooling of the floor surface can cause the wire to overheat and fail.

Never switch on heating wires or mats until the screed is completely dry. Even short-term activation can lead to damage to the heater. Checking the integrity of the laid cable and the correct connection is possible only by measuring the resistance. This does not apply to the infrared film floor, it can and should be connected to the network for testing.

Do not bend, step on, or pull on the wire. All this can lead to damage to the conductor or insulation and damage to the entire system. Also, avoid damaging the heating foil if you are installing an infrared ECD.

Do not forget to check the insulation resistance at all stages of work, especially before pouring the screed. The value should not differ from that declared by the manufacturer by more than 10%. If you see a significant discrepancy in the values, pause and locate the damaged insulation. If this rule is disregarded, then after the screed has dried, a very unpleasant surprise may await you in the form of an inoperative ETP.

Do not pour the temperature sensor directly into the screed. Place it in the corrugation, which will be filled with the screed. Sensors often fail, and if you fill it in a screed, then replacement will require a lot of effort.

When installing the infrared ETP, do not forget to insulate the live parts in the places where the film is cut. Otherwise, the protective equipment will constantly record the leakage current and turn off the power supply to your ETP.

ETP advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of the ETP are:

• ease of installation of the structure. This is especially true for heating mats and infrared films. It is enough to simply spread them on the base and connect according to the instructions, this does not require any special knowledge;
• high reliability and durability. Provided the insulation is intact, the heating wire or mats embedded in the screed have an almost unlimited service life;
• high autonomy. ETP does not require connecting the house to the water supply and even works from an electric generator. This allows it to be used in country houses and summer cottages.

The disadvantages of this heating method include:

• relatively high price for heating the room. ETP consumes quite a lot of power, especially if it is the only heating method;
• Due to the relatively low temperature of the floor surface, the air in the room warms up rather slowly. This is relevant if the ETP is the only source of heat and does not work constantly. For example, in country house in winter;
• Since heating elements must not be placed under massive furniture, after the completion of the work, the global rearrangement of the furniture will be impossible.

Step-by-step instructions for ETP installation

Preparation of the base

The ETP floor must be laid on a clean, dry base. In the wall, it is necessary to grind a groove for the temperature regulator and the wire. Carefully sweep up any debris that has formed.

After that, you need to put a layer of thermal insulation on the base, for example, penofol or expanded polystyrene. If there is a heated room on the floor below, then it will be enough to put a layer of foam foam 5 mm thick. If under the warm floor there is unheated room or soil, it is necessary to use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 20 mm to 50 mm, depending on the severity of winters in your area. Thermal insulation is fixed using any adhesive material.

Laying heating elements

Mark the floor prior to installation. It is important to highlight those areas that should not warm up. It is important to remember that a distance of 0.5 m must be observed to walls and large furniture, and the distance to heating devices, stoves and fireplaces must be at least 0.3 m.

If you are installing a warm floor based on a heating wire, then first you need to install the mounting tape. It will fix the turns of the wire and prevent them from shifting. Lay the tape over the thermal insulation and secure with dowels.

Fastening the mounting tape

Unwind the heating wire carefully and lay it over the thermal insulation and mounting tape, strictly observing the parallelism of the turns and the gaps between them. Secure each turn with the fixing tabs on the mounting tape. The turns of the wire must never overlap. After finishing the installation, measure the insulation resistance, it should not differ from the standard by more than 10%.

If you are using infrared film, then carefully unwind it along the base, then connect the sheets of film together in parallel. Lead the wires to the place where the thermostat is installed.

Installing a temperature sensor

If you are installing an ETP based on a heating wire or mat, then the temperature sensor must be located in a corrugated tube. Make a small indentation in the thermal insulation layer and insert a 20 mm diameter tube into it. Tightly plug one end of the tube with insulation, and bring the other end above the floor level in the same place where the wires will come out.

Place the temperature probe at the end of the tube and make sure it can be easily removed. This is important in order to be able to replace the sensor after the floor has been filled with screed.

If you are using an infrared ECD, you can check it by turning it on, the floor should be warm to the touch.

Filling underfloor heating with a screed

If you use an infrared ETP, then pouring is not required, you can immediately proceed with the installation of the topcoat.

If you use a heating wire or mat, then pouring the screed is strictly required. It is necessary to fill with cement to a thickness of 30-50 mm. After the screed hardens, you can proceed with the installation of the topcoat, for example, tiles, laminate or linoleum. The first switching on of the warm floor can be carried out only after the screed is completely dry. Most manufacturers set a complete drying time of 28 days. This ensures that no voids form around the wire, which over time will cause the wire to burn out.

Video - Installation of heating mats

Video - Warm floor under the tiles

Video - Installation of underfloor heating Electrolux, cable

Video - Installation of film underfloor heating

The feeling of even and pleasant warmth, which gives an electric floor heating, provides comfort in the room. But this type of heating has become popular not only for this reason. Modern intelligent control systems allow efficient use of electricity and make this heating method cost effective.

Types of electric floor heating

Depending on the type of heating element, electric floors are of the following types:

• traditional cable;
• innovative film;
• pivotal.

Cable models can be supplied on sale in the form of a simple coil, sections, as well as mats made of a special elastic mesh. The latter uses a thinner cable than other models.

Electric cable floor is only convection, and film and rod models work on the principle of infrared heaters.

Each of the varieties has its own styling characteristics and restrictions on use. If you decide to equip an electric underfloor heating, choose its characteristics based on what method of installation is possible in the room.

Cable electric floor

The use of cable for heating has already become a classic. For the manufacture of warm floors, both resistive and more complex self-regulating models are used. Resistive cable can be single or two-core, and the second option due to its design features is used for electric heating sex much more often.

The fact is that the result of the system's operation is electromagnetic radiation, and the use of a two-core cable makes it possible to somewhat reduce its intensity. Self-regulating models are much more complex than a conventional heating cable. They are able to identify areas where overheating has occurred and reduce, or even completely turn off the power.

Basic rules for installing cable underfloor heating

In general, the technology for installing an electric underfloor heating is about the same, regardless of what kind of it is used. Using the example of laying a conventional heating cable, we will consider the main stages of this process. Features and nuances that characterize the installation process of other models will be discussed in the relevant chapters.

Arrangement of any type of electric floor begins with choosing a place for installing a thermostat. A recess is cut in the wall for the device and the wires that will power the system. It will also contain a conductor for connecting the sensor.

After that, the floor surface is prepared. Lay on a plane aligned and cleaned of debris thermal insulation material... Heating sections are placed on top and secured with mounting tape.

By the way, using a cable makes it possible to choose the distance between the elements depending on what intensity of heating is required. For example, along the cold outer wall sections can be laid in smaller steps than in more protected parts of the room.

Important: Make sure that the heating conductors are not crossed during installation!

After the installation is completed, all connections are made electrical wires... Then the internal sensor is installed. It must be placed inside the corrugated tube. This will protect the device from damage. A tube with a sensor and a connected wire is placed between the heating cable. It remains to test the system for performance. If the resistance of the sections and the sensor corresponds to the data specified in the technical data sheet, then you can start pouring the cement-sand screed.

After three days, the topcoat is laid. The warm floor is connected only after the screed is completely dry - not earlier than after 28 days. You can independently equip a warm electric floor, the installation - the video of which is presented below, is not a very difficult process. The main thing is to follow the instructions given in this video. But if in the process of viewing it turns out that you do not have any skills or you do not have necessary tools then use the services of a specialized company.

Heating mats - option for underfloor heating under tiles

Warm mats are a type of traditional cable floor. They have the same heating element - a cable, but in the manufacture of mats, models with a smaller cross-section are used. In addition, this floor is sold in finished form- it is fixed on an elastic fiberglass mesh. Most often, mats are used for heating floors with ceramic tiles.

The underside of the mesh is usually covered with an adhesive that allows the structure to be fixed almost instantly. Therefore, the installation of an electric underfloor heating in this case does without the use of mounting tape. After the heating mats are unfolded and secured, required connections and system testing. Then the surface is poured with mortar for fastening ceramic tiles and lay the topcoat.

Infrared electric floors

Infrared floor with carbon heating rods is gradually becoming a strong competitor for other varieties electrical systems underfloor heating... Only a rather high price limits its widespread use. This is the healthiest way to maintain a comfortable temperature in your home. Those who have already installed a core heat-insulated floor give reviews about it mostly positive.

Such a floor can be laid even under a surface filled with furniture, as well as easily move it during operation. Carbon rods are not afraid of overheating because they have a self-regulating function. The carbon mat is designed to be installed using a screed or adhesive. It is suitable for laying ceramic tiles, but it can also be used under other coatings.

To increase the efficiency of the system, a heat-reflecting film substrate is first placed on the floor surface. For reliable adhesion of the glue or screed to the subfloor, special holes are made in the insulation. Electric underfloor heating is laid evenly over the entire surface. If necessary, the mats are cut in the places where the connecting wire is located into pieces of the required size. After completing the installation and verification work, the surface is covered with a thin layer of cement-sand screed or glue.

The easiest way to carry out the installation of a warm electric floor of a film structure. It does not require preliminary measures for the arrangement of the surface. Such a floor is laid on a heat-reflecting substrate, and the selected coating is laid on top.

Electric floor control

The system is not only connected to the power supply through the thermostat, but is also controlled with its help. This device monitors the heating of floors and air by reading the readings of internal and external sensors. Internal sensors are the main ones, they are installed when installing an electric heated floor in a screed or under a covering. Auxiliary sensors register the air temperature. They are usually located on the wall.

The simplest thermostat is able to maintain a certain temperature in the room: if certain parameters are exceeded, it simply cuts off the power and allows the system to cool down. The programmable thermostat for electric underfloor heating works according to a more complex scheme. Its use allows owners to set the desired heating algorithm for the room.

Some models have a set of standard programs that take into account the time of day, weekends or weekdays.

They will turn on the power on their own before the arrival of the owners and turn it off while there is no one at home. On this moment thermostats already exist that are controlled remotely, via the Internet or mobile phone... This allows apartment owners to adjust the program in the event that plans have changed.

Of course, you will have to pay several times more for a thermostat with artificial intelligence than for a simple model. But the costs will pay off due to the fact that the operation of an electric underfloor heating will be more rational, and energy consumption will be economical.

Electric underfloor heating: main and additional heating system

It is possible to use an electrically heated floor as the main heating system only if the room is carefully insulated. But even while observing of this condition this heating method is more suitable for areas with warm winters. In more severe conditions, it will not be very effective and very costly.

To maintain a comfortable temperature level only due to the warm floor, its area should have a fairly big sizes- at least two thirds of the total area of ​​the room.

Accordingly, if there is a lot of furniture in the room, then the system will not fully fulfill its task. In addition, a specific power of at least 150 watts is required.

Warm floor for heating the balcony

Having made the decision to create a system of underfloor heating in an apartment or house, the owners are faced with another problem of choice - which technology for heating the lower part of the premises to choose. There are types of systems on the market now. Some of them run on water, others are powered by electricity. However, not everyone knows that there is also an electric-water heat-insulated floor - one of the newest technologies, which has already gained a good reputation among many craftsmen and those who have tested this floor heating system.

Why do people still argue about which floor is better - running on water or on electricity? The thing is that these heating technologies differ from each other in terms of installation, they have certain disadvantages and advantages. And the choice is not always easy to make.

Warm floor - which is better?

Features of water floors

This is a rather complex system in relation to the installation, which operates on such a coolant as hot water. The advantage of water heating is that this type is quite economical during operation.

The main disadvantage is the complexity and some features of the installation. For example, a water-heated floor is not in all cases allowed to be connected to a central heating system - for this it is necessary to obtain permission from management company... In a private house, an installation will be needed, which is also associated with the peculiarities of the operation of this type of heating system. The boiler itself can, depending on the type, take up quite a lot of space in the house, this must also be taken into account when choosing this heating system.

Also, for the installation of a water heating system for a warm floor, you will have to spend a lot preparatory work... It is worth remembering that before putting such a floor into operation, the cement screed must dry well.

Features of electric floors

This heating system works, as you might guess, on the basis of electricity. The heat generated by special cables or mats is transferred directly to the final floor covering, making the floor tactilely pleasant, cozy and warm.

Electric floor heating connection diagram

The main difference from a water floor is that in this case, the surface heating is always the same, while the water runs through the pipes constantly and has time to cool down until the next heating. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage of this type of heating.

On a note! Because of this feature, electric floors may not always be usable. Everything will depend on what kind of flooring is laid, as well as on the location of the furniture in the apartment. However, the places where there are cabinets and sofas can simply be bypassed when installing electric floors.

Electric floors are subdivided into film and cable. The first is laid on the surface of the screed directly under the finishing coating, the second, similar to the water floor, is poured with a cement screed.

With the help of both types of underfloor heating, you can easily equip underfloor heating in any home. However, it is always difficult to choose between them. But technologies do not stand still, and now there is an electric-water floor on sale, which combines the advantages of both types.

Liquid electric floor

An electric-water floor is a combined type of heating system that combines the advantages of working with both water and electric type heating.

On a note! Calling such a floor water is not entirely correct. In some models, water is not used as a coolant - antifreeze is pumped into the tubes. Thus, the correct name for this underfloor heating system would be "liquid floor".

electric water underfloor heating

This type of underfloor heating is a pipe system or one long thick-walled pipe. When the liquid heating system is turned on, the coolant is heated, due to which a certain pressure is created and the boiling of antifreeze or distilled water begins (the coolant in different systems used differently). This is how heat energy is generated.

Advantages of electric-water underfloor heating

In order to fully appreciate all the benefits of a liquid underfloor heating, it is important to know its advantages, which distinguish this system from other analogues. And the advantages of electric-water systems over conventional water systems are many:

• they do not need to be connected to a heating boiler or heating system;
• a pump is not needed for the system to work;
• when installing the floor, you do not have to install a manifold and a switch cabinet;
• the volume of liquid contained within the system is small, and therefore the likelihood of flooding an apartment or even a strong leak of equipment is completely excluded;
• the heating of the system is as uniform as possible, the liquid inside the tube does not have time to cool down;
• ease of installation compared to water systems.

Also, the liquid system has considerable advantages over electrical ones:

• since the cable is constantly inside the liquid, its overheating and burnout are excluded, unlike an electric cable simply laid in a screed;
• repair of the liquid floor is easy to carry out. For example, pouring antifreeze or replacing a heating element is easy to carry out through a special junction box. A damaged area can be identified by small spots on the screed;
• thermal energy is stored not only inside the screed, but also in the pipe itself, due to which the heating effect lasts longer.

If we compare liquid floors with film floors (which, in fact, are also electric), then the former can be used in a room with any humidity indicators, which distinguishes them favorably from the latter. Also, liquid-based floors can be installed under absolutely any floor covering.

Popular models of liquid electric floor

There are two main models of electric water underfloor heating. These are XL Pipe (Korea, Daewoo Enertec) and Unimat Aqua (Korea, Caleo). They have structural differences.

On a note! Unimat Aqua systems are also manufactured in Russia. And this is worth remembering when choosing products.

These are two completely different designs that only have general principle work - the coolant is heated by electricity. But the heaters and heating mechanism are somewhat different.

This type of underfloor heating is a single long, thick-walled tube with a diameter of 2 cm, which is made of a special type of polyethylene. This element is a "container" for a coolant, which is an antifreeze of a certain brand. A seven-core Teflon-lined cable made of chromium-nickel metal is laid inside the pipe. The pipe is sealed at both ends, so that the circulation of the coolant does not occur, which, in turn, eliminates the need to purchase any other equipment.

On a note! The approximate power consumption of this system is 14.5 watts / m2.

Heating due to the liquid system occurs quickly and evenly, allowing the entire surface of the finish coating to be heated. At the same time, such a floor cools down for a very long time. The advantages of a liquid floor include the fact that it is not afraid of pressure from the outside, that is, you can safely put furniture on the finish coating where such a system lies - it will not bring harm to heating.

XL Pipe is installed inside the screed, or rather, the laid system is poured cement mortar about 4-5 cm thick. The pipes are laid according to a certain scheme. For installation, you will also need a thermostat,. At the same time, there are no particular features of the installation of these elements - they are mounted in the same way as when arranging other types of heating. Unless you have to purchase a specific thermostat, designed specifically for liquid electric floors. A 12x12x14 cm junction box is also useful.

The XL Pipe system is reliability, safety and environmental friendliness in one type of equipment. The warranty period is 10 years, but in general, use the system when correct installation can be about 50 years old.

Table. Characteristics and cost of XL Pipe floors.

Model	Length, m	Power, W	Cost, rub.
DW-010	14	560	5400
DW-015	21	840	8000
DW-020	28	1120	10700
DW-025	35	1400	13400
DW-030	42	1680	15300
DW-040	56	2240	21300
DW-050	70	2800	24300
DW-060	84	3360	28000

XL Pipe advantages

This floor heating system has certain advantages:

• it is not a source of electromagnetic radiation;
• practically does not need to install additional equipment;
• does not overheat and does not negative impact on the topcoat;
• allows you to put on furniture;
• maintainable;
• economical (electricity costs are on average 20-30% lower than when using electric floor heating);
• relatively simple installation.

DIY XL Pipe installation

Step 1. The sub-floor base is prepared - it is cleaned of debris, all cracks and irregularities are corrected. Next, 5 cm thick extruded polystyrene foam plates are placed on the surface for thermal insulation.

Step 2. Plates are fastened with special "umbrellas". Previously, holes are made in the plates for the fastening material, then the dowels-umbrellas are inserted into them.

Step 3. Over expanded polystyrene plates a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10-20 cm is laid.

Step 4. The individual parts of the mesh are connected with a knitting wire.

Step 5. The heating cable is unpacked and tested for resistance.

Step 6. The XL Pipe is laid out on the floor surface from the installation box according to the selected scheme with a step of 20-30 cm. The pipe is fixed with plastic clamps on the reinforcing mesh.

Step 7. A power cable is connected from the thermostat to the junction box.

Step 8. The wires from the pipe are connected to the power cable. The wires can be connected with special terminals.

Step 9. The ground wire is connected to the reinforcing mesh.

Step 10. A temperature sensor is attached at a distance of 5 cm from the system tube.

Step 11. The junction box is closed with a lid, the seams of which are sealed with a sealant. Everything, installation and installation are completed, it remains only to fill the system cement screed and wait for it to dry.

Video - Installation of XL Pipe without screed on a wooden floor

Capillary underfloor heating Unimat Aqua

The Unimat Aqua system is slightly different from the XL Pipe. Instead of one thick tube, it has in its structure a large number of small diameter tubes. That is why the system is called capillary. It is connected to a special device with a power of about 2.4 kW, due to which the coolant is heated and heat energy is released. The system is closed, the pressure in it is created using the same device. The system also does not need to install additional heating equipment.

On a note! The volume of liquid inside the Unimat Aqua system is no more than 6 liters. Distilled water acts as a heat carrier.

The heating area of ​​one system is about 20 m 2. That is why it is not used for spacious rooms, although several Unimat Aquas can be installed in the same room. Service life is about 5 years.

Unimat Aqua is presented in two types - basic and additional. The first one includes a control unit, a mounting kit and two sections of a connecting pipe. From all this, a small pipeline is formed. An additional set consists of coils of small diameter tubes, the amount of which is enough to heat an area of ​​10-20 m 2. Also, for installation, fasteners for pipes and a material that reflects heat energy are used. A standard cement mix is ​​used to fill the screed.

The main advantage of this system lies in the multifunctional control unit, which can:

• determine and control the room temperature or heating of the heat carrier;
• set the time for turning on and off the heating system.

The system is completely safe and can be installed even in a sauna. But the Unimat Aqua has a certain drawback - it is similar to the water floor system. The heat carrier comes from a heating unit with a higher temperature, gradually cools down, and therefore the heating of the floors will be uneven.

Table. CharacteristicsUnimatAqua.

Installation of underfloor heating Unimat Aqua Caleo

Step 1. The sub-floor surface is thoroughly cleaned of debris, all irregularities are removed.

Step 2. The location of the thermostat installation on the wall is selected.

Step 3. In the rough base or screed, a strobe is made for laying the temperature sensor.

Step 4. Installation in progress heat-reflecting material... The sheets are connected to each other with tape or attached to the base with a stapler.

Step 5. The underfloor heating system is laid out on the surface on the side where the thermostat is planned to be installed.

Step 6. Where the mat needs to be rotated, one connecting wire is cut. The strip unfolds 180 degrees. The tubes must not cross each other.

Attention! The cut should only be made in the middle of the power cable. Maximum length stripes should not be more than 25 m.

Step 7. The system is glued to the surface of the heat reflector using adhesive tape.

Step 8. Installation wires are used to connect the mats to each other. For this, the ends are stripped of insulation at the cut. A sleeve is installed in this place, it is clamped with crimping pliers.

Step 9. A heat-shrinkable tube is put on the wire. The power wire is connected to the connecting one. The sleeve is crimped and heated with a special hair dryer. The sleeve is closed with a tube, which is then heated and shrinks.

Step 10. Next, the system is connected to the thermostat. The Unimat Aqua strip is attached to it using a connecting wire and special regulator clamps. Connection is made according to the diagram included with the thermostat.

Step 11. Holes are cut in the heat reflector to connect the future screed to the base of the floor.

Step 12. The temperature sensor is installed inside the corrugated tube. It is located along the rods of the system.

sensor for underfloor heating

Step 13. The system is checked for operability within 15 minutes.

Step 14. The system is poured with a cement mixture, a screed is formed.

Video - Installation of Unimat Aqua floor

Liquid or water electric floors are an excellent alternative to other types of heating. They are easy to use, practical and perform well. The use of such systems will give an apartment or house a cosiness, making the flooring warm and pleasant.

To increase the comfort in the house, many property owners install underfloor heating. In our article, we will get acquainted with the varieties of such structures, we will describe how to choose heating elements and carry out their installation.

According to experts, electric underfloor heating is performed in two main varieties: cable and film (infrared). Next, we will briefly familiarize ourselves with each of the described technologies. As the name implies, the first design uses a cable as a heating element.

The wiring is laid manually with a certain step, and near the enclosing structures, the cables are mounted at a shorter distance from each other, in warmer places less often (when using film, this scheme is not used).

Cables can be single or dual-core, although the latter is more commonly used. Experts point out that the energy consumption of the heating element will completely depend on the thermostat settings. Self-regulating cables can be included in the design of the electric underfloor heating, which set the heating temperature regardless of the controller settings.

A feature of using an infrared floor is the fact that the released thermal energy is not transferred to air masses, but to surrounding objects that absorb and give off heat. Thanks to these qualities, it is possible to achieve uniform heating of the premises. A heating element such as a film has a small thickness compared to a cable, which affects the size of the screed and the height of the premises. In addition, infrared floor heating is much more effective than its predecessor.

The film can be installed under any type flooring... If the heating system is mounted under a tile, then the base base must be leveled with sheets of drywall or plywood. This is due to the fact that the materials in question have low thermal conductivity and this will improve heat transfer. The main disadvantage of an infrared floor is considered to be the increased cost compared to the analogue.

How to choose electric underfloor heating

The choice of any of the described space heating systems is influenced by many factors. First, you need to pay attention to the use of the structure - as the main source of heating or as an auxiliary element. In the first case, it is recommended to use a cable underfloor heating, which is most often installed under the tiles laid in the bathroom.

When using such a system, the landlord or country house can save you a significant amount of money on heating. It should be noted that additional thickness screeds in the described design will make the surface warming up more even. The system has one small drawback, it is much more difficult to lay cables than to mount the film.

If a warm floor is used as an additional source of heat, then it is recommended to use electric mats for its construction. A similar heating device is often used in small rooms that do not have central heating. Experienced people believe that infrared floors can be installed under laminate flooring, as well as under linoleum and other types of flooring.

The second nuance of the choice is taking into account the area of ​​the room where the warm floor will be installed. For the system to work with maximum efficiency, its area must cover at least 70% of the usable surface. It is impractical to install heating elements in the places where furniture is installed. In this regard, the layout of the rooms must be done in advance before installing the floor.

How to choose a warm floor so that it does not affect the load on the power grid? Particular attention should be paid to the operating modes of the system. You can control the surface heating temperature using a thermostat. Also make sure that the electrical network of the apartment or country house can withstand the load from the heating system. Each square meter of warm floor will consume from 100 to 160 watts of power. If the underfloor heating will be used as the main source of heat, then the power will increase to 180 watts / m2.

Cable heated floor for bathroom

As we have already said, the "warm floor" system can be installed in virtually any room of the apartment, but it is especially necessary for the bathroom. When taking a shower in winter, a person's feet move over the cold tiles, which causes some discomfort and not only this, but also the possibility of catching a cold. Ceramic tiles are considered the main type of bathroom flooring. This material is always cold, but it can be heated to a certain temperature.

Principle of operation

The underfloor heating cable starts working after the thermostat is turned on at a certain temperature. After connecting the system to the mains, the cable begins to warm up, which transfers heat to the screed and tiles. Electricity consumption depends on the set temperature, but for rapid heating of the surface, the regulator must be set closer to the maximum position, then set the necessary indicators. The released heat will be bounced off the substrate and will begin to warm up the screed, and then the tile. After a while, the flooring will become warm and comfortable to move around.

Preparation of the base

You can lay the cable with your own hands, but the first stage of such work will be a thorough leveling of the base. The fact is that heating elements must be laid on ideally flat surface... Besides base layer cleaned of debris and construction tool, remove all present dirt.

If the base surface for some reason turned out to be uneven, then it is necessary to remove all the bumps with a punch or other tool. Pits, cracks and chips are filled with a cement-sand mortar, if necessary, the base is leveled using a screed. If the base layer consists of wooden planks or plywood sheets, all irregularities are also hidden with the help of quick-drying mixtures.

Leveling the subfloor prevents damage to the heating system during operation. The laid cable can run into bumps or run into holes, which will lead to power outages. It is noticed that it is quite difficult to eliminate such breakdowns.

Substrate

After the base layer is leveled with a screed, you can start laying the substrate or insulation (usually penofol is used for this purpose). This material plays a huge role in the construction of a warm floor, its surface beats off heat rays in the right direction, making the heating process more economical. Penofol is made in the form of a self-adhesive strip with a foil coating up to 14 micrometers thick. Such a product has a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, which is 0.05 W / m * C.

The material in question is supplied to construction stores in rolls, it is laid on the surface of the base in such a way that the foil is directed towards the top (beats off heat rays). The joints of the panels are glued with construction tape. When working with penophenol, indents are made from the walls and corners of the premises within 5-10 centimeters.

Cabling

After laying the substrate, you can proceed to the next stage of work, installation of the cable. This element is laid on a mounting tape, which is pre-fixed to the base surface. Some manufacturers can supply ready-made designs to the market in which heating cables are already installed in the frame with a certain pitch. Such products are supplied to hardware stores in the form of rolls.

The mounting grid can be supplied separately from the cable. Such a structural element increases the strength of the entire system, makes it possible to lay conductors with a certain pitch in a zigzag direction. In most cases, the distance between the turns is chosen as a multiple of 20-25 centimeters.

Installing the thermostat and connecting

Next, you need to install a thermostat in the "warm floor" system and connect all the parts. A device such as a temperature sensor is installed in any convenient place outside the bathroom. The thermostat is usually mounted at a height of 30 centimeters from the floor surface, it is connected to the heating elements using a wire that is installed in a corrugated tube.

Now you can check the functionality of the system using a tester for this purpose. If everything is fine, you can proceed to the screed device. The leveling layer is usually made of cement-sand mortar or quick-drying mixture. In any of the above cases, the thickness of the screed should be between 3 and 5 centimeters.

In order to achieve a perfectly aligned base for the future flooring, the solution is poured in between the previously exposed beacons. After that, the mixture is aligned with the rule. After carrying out such work, the integrity of the system is checked with a tester and the solution is left until the brand strength is set. This usually occurs within 28 days.

Energy consumption

Connection heating elements the network is carried out only one month after the screed is completed, since overheating of the material can cause cracks on the surface. Electricity consumption per m2 of coverage will depend on the capacity power cable, as well as the density of its packing. Such indicators can vary from 100 to 200 W / m2.

Cable underfloor heating price

Many owners of city apartments or suburban real estate are interested in the price per m2 of underfloor heating. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the cost of materials and labor costs of workers. So the price of an average quality thermostat ranges from 3,000 to 4,000 rubles, the cost of mats with a laid cable depends on the area:

• 2m2 - 2800 rubles;
• 3m2 - 5300 rubles;
• 4m2 - 8000 rubles.

The cost of the master's services should be added to the indicated data. Professional builders will take for their work about 450 rubles for each square meter of heated floor installed.

Infrared floor heating

The considered type of heating has a beneficial effect on human health and this is confirmed by numerous user reviews. The fact is that the heated surface emits heat in the infrared range and this is better perceived by the body. The room temperature can be several degrees lower than the standard values, but this is not felt in any way, which ultimately leads to energy savings. Another advantage of the infrared floor is ionizing radiation, which leads to the destruction of pathogenic bacteria and viruses. Despite the huge number of advantages, the heating system under consideration has one significant drawback - it is high cost.

Device

You can make infrared heating using a special film or rod mats. These two elements are made in the form of rolls with busbars made of copper or silver. The tension is transmitted through these tires to the sealed carbon sections, which generates a certain amount of heat. The strips are divided into several pieces in sections that have dividing lines. According to these designations, it is possible to cut the element into smaller parts, which is very convenient for installation. The width of standard products, depending on the manufacturer and brand, ranges from 50 to 100 centimeters, the thickness of the film varies from 0.2 to 2 millimeters.

We figured out the underfloor heating device, now we will get acquainted with the procedure for its installation. In this case, the film can be laid on a pre-leveled base without a backing. If the heating system is used in a bathroom, sheets of plasterboard or plywood are laid for protection. Installation of the film will not be particularly difficult, even an inexperienced builder can handle the installation of a warm floor, and make the floor in small room can be done in one working day.

At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to draw up a plan for the premises on a scale, highlight the areas where the furniture will be located. The next important nuance in installing the coating is the choice of a place for fixing the thermostat. Wiring is connected to this element of the system, a temperature sensor and a film heater are connected. Next, rolls are placed on the base surface in such a way that they overlap the useful floor area as much as possible and do not intersect with each other.

Power consumption

One of important nuances the choice of the foil floor is the energy consumption per m2 of usable area. In this case, there are two options for choosing heating systems. If the coating will be used for additional heating of the room, then a film with a power of 150 W / m2 will be quite enough. In the case when the system is used as the main source of heating, more powerful models are needed, at least 250 W / m2. The maximum power indicators of a modern underfloor heating are 400W / m2.

Another factor in the selection of power is the type of coating used. This is especially true for the floor in the bathroom or kitchen, if it is made of ceramic tiles. Ceramic absorbs heat well, so if it is not heated sufficiently, the surface will feel cold to the feet of a person.

Laying the film

At the initial stage of installation, it is necessary to lay around the perimeter of expanded polystyrene plates with a thickness of about 1 centimeter to a height of up to 10 centimeters (the insulation will prevent the release of heat through the enclosing structures). Insulation is also laid on the base surface; to increase the efficiency of the system, foil is laid on the coating. This material will direct heat flows upward, which ultimately will reduce the financial costs of heating.

Further, according to the drawn diagram, the film is laid on the surface, while the rolls should be guided downward with a copper strip. The top should have a matte finish, not a shiny finish. When laying each of the structural elements, make sure that no air accumulates between them. If necessary, the rolls are cut according to the marked marking lines (indicated by a dotted line and a scissors symbol).

According to experts, it is best to install the mats if they are deployed partly with contacts towards the location of the thermostat. During installation, position the strips so that there is a gap of several centimeters between them. If linoleum will be used as a floor covering, the distance between adjacent mats is chosen as a multiple of 1 centimeter. Please note that the tires must not touch or overlap each other under any circumstances.

When all the elements are laid on the surface, you can start connecting the underfloor heating. This procedure is usually carried out using the cable that comes with the heating system... A contact is placed on a copper or silver conductive strip in such a way that one part of it is on top, the other is below the core. We install contacts on all tires and crimp with pliers. On the side of the foil opposite to the thermostat position, the bus bar is covered with insulation. After that, all the strips are fastened together and the surface of the insulation, for this, tape is used.

Installation of the thermostat

Next, proceed to the installation of the thermostat. They make a strobe in the wall and lead in conductors from the film covering. A recess for the sensor is made under one of the strips in the insulation material. After fixing on the surface, this device is connected to a thermostat. The conductors are stripped and fastened to the contact part, the exposed areas are carefully insulated.

Connecting the entire system

A qualified specialist must be engaged in connecting the power supply to the thermostat. After the current is applied, the system is tested; for this, the temperature on the device is set within 30 degrees. After a while, check the fastening of the contact part and the quality of the heating of the strips. If no problems are found, you can start laying the topcoat.

Ceramic tiles can be laid on a small layer of glue (within 1-2 centimeters), but must be laid under parquet or laminate plastic wrap to be used as waterproofing. If the coating is soft, then the surface of the subfloor can be leveled with plywood sheets or OSB boards. These elements are attached to the surface using dowels or self-tapping screws. When fixing such parts, it is necessary to ensure that the fasteners do not fall into the conductive strips. After that, they start laying soft flooring, carpet or linoleum.

Price

As we have already said, an infrared heated floor is distinguished by a significant cost, let's consider this issue in more detail. So, the price of a thermostat, depending on the model, will range from 3000 to 4000 rubles. The film itself has the following cost: 2m2 - 3800 rubles, 3m2 - 5500 rubles, 5m2 - 9000 rubles. The cost of the master's services (if the work is carried out by a highly qualified specialist) is from 500 rubles / m2.