DIY creative epoxy table. How to make an epoxy countertop How to make a transparent epoxy countertop

Epoxy resin is an exceptional material that consists of a hardener and resin. The main property of pouring is that the original volume remains after complete drying, because hardening occurs due to chemical reactions. The surface is covered with a uniform layer, cracks and bulges are not formed. This is what makes it possible to use epoxy resin for any surface with any complex configuration.

It makes it possible to cover a surface on which a drawing or ornament was previously applied, or small decorative elements were laid out. Making a countertop with your own hands from epoxy resin is a great opportunity to show your abilities and imagination. Your table will look like
3D image with a unique design.

The surface of the table is not afraid of damage, and it will not deform, chips and cracks will not appear during use. This material has an affordable cost. An amateur can work with epoxy because it is easy to use. You don't need any special skills, you just need to follow the instructions clearly.

For work, you need to purchase a special painting paper suit, rubber gloves and a hat (you can take a shower cap). Such precautions
are needed so that the hair does not get into the resin, because it is almost impossible to remove it from there.

Let's highlight the main advantages of the material:

after drying, the fill retains the same volume and remains perfectly even;
mechanical damage is practically not terrible - dents, cuts and chips;
has excellent moisture resistance, which is necessary for surfaces in the kitchen;
not exposed to the aggressive effects of cleaning chemicals;
does not require the purchase of expensive household chemicals for personal care.

Among the shortcomings, we highlight:

if the temperature drops sharply, then "white flakes" appear in the filling;
at high temperatures, toxins can be released due to evaporation;
to get the desired result, you must observe the exact proportions;
all safety precautions are required during operation.

When using different decor items, keep the following in mind. The base, filled with epoxy, must be absolutely dry and clean, therefore the decorative elements must also be dry. If the filler contains droplets of moisture, whiteness will appear in the resin, this is how the resin reacts with water. Light decor need to be glued so that it does not float. When his the height is not more than half a centimeter, then one layer of resin is enough. Complex shape items for decoration will require pouring resin in several layers, between which you need to stand for no more than two days. When pouring resin, keep in mind that when the object to be poured has pores and depressions, air will appear in the resin in the form of bubbles, which can be removed by heating (use a burner or hair dryer). The penetration time of the resin lasts about three hours. Therefore, it is best to dip the object into the material in advance, and only then place it on the surface to be poured.

Something new constantly appears in the creation of interior design, and the elements of concrete present in various furniture are the latest novelty, especially in the kitchen or in the country. However, do not limit yourself to only kitchen set, a coffee table in a living room with a concrete top will look very original and interesting.

And making such a tabletop is quite simple with your own hands, and you don't need a lot of experience to create it, almost anyone can make it, the main thing would be a desire.

Such countertops are simply not replaceable. for country furniture : do not get wet, do not deteriorate!
, it is enough to cover the worn-out table with it - and you will get a super modern thing.
For the kitchen - they do not deteriorate and are very durable!

Instruments

In order to make a coffee table with a rectangular concrete top, we need:

Wooden boards.
Wire mesh for reinforcing concrete.
A piece of 1/2-inch chipboard or plywood panel to make the desired shape.
Drywall.
Screws.
Pneumatic nailer to attach the sides to the bottom panel.
Large plastic container for mixing cement.

Worktop manufacturing instructions

Step 1: making the box

Regardless of the size and shape of the countertop, the wire mesh should be two inches shorter in width and height than chipboard or plywood panels.

We make a box of the shape and size we need from panels and gypsum board. After the workpiece is completely ready, you can start mixing the concrete.

Step 2: pour concrete

V plastic container we knead the cement, for this you can use an ordinary shovel, which must be thoroughly mixed with the mixture.
After that, carefully pour the concrete into the mold up to half, distributing it in the corners.
Cover wire mesh mix, and then fill the shape to the top so that the mixture protrudes slightly from the top. This is done in order to make it easier to level the surface and make it smooth, for this purpose it is best to use a spatula.

TIP: After that, you need to leave the mold for several days to completely dry the cement.

Step 3: sanding

Then you need to remove mold and sand from the surface. In order to smooth the table top, it works well sandpaper grit 120.

Then wipe the surface well with a sponge, roller brush or soft cloth.

If you want nothing to cover the surface of the coffee table, then it is best to seal the countertop with concrete sealant then it will look very beautiful and be more practical.

Step 4: attach the tabletop to the legs

After the top of the coffee table is completely ready, you can use absolutely any base.
Very beautiful and practical option will be like this table on wooden legs on casters so that it can be easily moved.
We attach the tabletop to the legs liquid nails or silicone glue.

Such an original concrete table will become a real decoration. home decor and will make the interior irresistible.

Ideas and photos of concrete countertops and tables

With a flower bed in the middle

For a summer residence, an excellent option is to leave a gutter where you can plant flowers when pouring concrete. Looks very awesome.

How to lighten the construction

Ideal and great idea- leave a hole in the middle and make a glass tab... To do this, you need to cut out the groove for the glass inlay.
Also put concrete countertop on legs with wheels- this is especially appropriate for coffee tables that often have to be moved.

Almost every housewife dreams of kitchen interior that is both functional and cozy. An important element of any kitchen is the worktop. Produce it from the most variety of materials, the most popular of which is concrete. You can make a product with your own hands, without involving other specialists. A concrete countertop has numerous advantages.

Basic moments

The technology for the manufacture of concrete products is very popular in private construction. A horizontal work surface made of concrete can be characterized as a stone of artificial origin, obtained by molding and hardening a mixture, consisting of the following components:

cement High Quality(acts as an astringent);
placeholders different sizes, selected by color;
low salt liquid;
special additives to improve the quality of concrete.

For those who are going to make a concrete countertop with their own hands, it is important to consider a few important points... The operation of the product assumes a large shock load on it, for example, during the chopping of carcasses with cartilages, that is, reliable reinforcement is necessary.

Choosing a sink and hob, it is worth giving preference to the overhead type... Such a design does not require special accuracy in the dimensions of the opening, while the installation flange has a sufficient width. Possible flaws will be hidden, and the product will receive reliable fastening... Concerning mortise structures, then their installation requires special equipment... Such work is carried out exclusively in a workshop.

A concrete countertop weighs a lot, therefore, its base must be quite strong. To reduce weight, try to shorten the width without sacrificing strength. An important stage is grinding, accompanied by big amount dust.

The table top is a decorative element, so it is important to think over its color scheme. If you use gray cement, then the product will turn out to be the same color. Fortunately, today there is a wide variety of colors to add to the mix, so you can choose the shade that suits you best.

Preparatory stage

Preparation is a mandatory step. You must purchase necessary materials and tools. First of all, procure the components from which it is prepared concrete mortar:

sand;
cement;
crushed stone;
water.

To make the horizontal surface more durable, you need to put a metal reinforcing frame in the solution. Here you cannot do without steel rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. To make a mesh out of them, you need knitting wire. The frame is attached with self-tapping screws.

The table top is poured into a formwork made of several various materials... The main thing is a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which should be from 12 mm. Alternatively, laminated chipboard... It is important to take high-strength materials, even a slight curvature will affect the countertop.

Don't forget about the tap hole. To do it, you need plastic pipe 50 mm long, 35 mm in diameter. The standard fitting of the mixer is 35 mm in diameter.

Sketching and preparing the formwork

You can make a drawing as before preparatory stage, and after it. It is necessary to accurately measure the place where the furniture with the countertop will be located. If you plan to put them in the corner of the room, it is important to align the angle at 90 degrees. This will allow not only to make the repair better, but also to simplify the installation of cabinets, placing them exactly along the wall planes.

The installation boundaries of the product are measured with a tape measure. Work zone kitchens often have a curved shape. In this case the best solution there will be a division of the element into parts, when its own tabletop is made for each separate part. At the same time, the single formwork is divided into elements. It is important that the boundaries of the parcels are transverse. They must match on the sides of the pedestals. This will prevent the occurrence of cracks. A heavy-weight, self-made monolithic tabletop is more difficult to install.

To prepare the formwork, you will need to position the moisture-resistant plywood on a comfortable horizontal surface, such as a table. Dimensions from the drawing are copied to the sheet. Boards of 50 × 30 mm are placed along the edges, they are needed to determine the height of the product (50 mm). This is the most suitable size. If you increase it, then the mass of the product will increase, and if you decrease it, the strength will deteriorate, which in no case should be allowed.

The walls must be securely fixed, because the concrete solution will press on them. Can be used metal corners or use bars 50 × 50 mm, fixing them at the corners of the product. If the board is long, it is advisable to fix another 2-3 bars in the middle of the structure.

Sink hole and reinforcing frame

The sink can be built-in or overhead, the latter has a horizontal rim around the perimeter. If an invoice type is put, the product is turned over, placed on plywood sheet, and the outline is done on the board. Next, you need to determine the width of the side, for example, this is 3 cm, then a similar shape is deposited inside at a distance of 2.5 cm.

If a sink of the built-in type is intended, an outline should be applied along the edge of the sink. Then boards of 50 × 50 mm are placed along the lines, they must be attached to the plywood with self-tapping screws.

The built-in sink has a landing chamfer, which is quite difficult to make. So, the manufacture of concrete countertops involves the use of an overhead structure. It is only necessary to fix the pipe at the place of installation of the mixer.

The wire frame is a mesh with a mesh size of 25 × 25 mm. At the same time, it must be at a distance of 25 mm from the edges of the formwork and plywood. Therefore, you need to cut the wire taking into account such nuances. Polyethylene is placed in the formwork, its edges are inserted into the boards. It is important to polyethylene film had no folds and lay flat.

The frame is assembled in formwork or separately. If installation is required at a height of 25 mm, then it is best to do this with self-tapping screws... There is one more installation option. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the plywood sheet along the perimeter of the formwork every 25 mm. The level and ruler allow you to level the height of the caps. Next, the pieces of wire are attached to the self-tapping screws. At the intersection, knitting wire is used.

Before pouring a concrete countertop, you need to process the joints. It is important to ensure that the sealant fills in crevices and gaps. When it is necessary to obtain rounded corners, then a pipe is placed in the place where two boards meet. After that, the sealant is activated.

The concrete can be poured completely filling the formwork or in layers. Choosing the first method, it is necessary to mix cement, sand and coarse aggregate in a 1: 2: 2 ratio. It is desirable to use marble chips as filler. Also take 0.5 part of the liquid. First, water and cement should be mixed, then the remaining components are added. It is necessary to mix the solution very thoroughly.

A concrete countertop can be very original view... It is important to correctly design its front side. Let's say you can lay on polyethylene:

glass shards;
coins;
beads;
cable cores;
wire.

Fiberglass looks great. Such decor must be fixed with glue to prevent displacement during pouring. When creating the first layer, a fine sand mortar is used that does not include any coarse fillers. For example, such as crushed stone or gravel. It is better to take a little less liquids than is suggested in the classical proportion, this will prevent the formation of pores. Lack of water is also unacceptable. Cracks may appear due to this.

If you are not sure that the solution will work out, it is better to use the purchased mixture. On the packaging of such a composition, there is usually an instruction, in it you can find information about how much water is added. Better to mix at low speeds. It is necessary to pour concrete mortar by a third or half of the total height. There is no need to wait for drying.

After 30 minutes, you can start pouring the main bearing layer. In this case, the mixture can be prepared according to the traditional recipe, which involves the addition of expanded clay instead of crushed stone and gravel to give the structure lightness. After pouring, the concrete horizontal surface is covered with a film, which is removed after 24 hours.

Pieces of damp cloth are placed on top, you can use a wet towel. This slows down the hardening process and improves strength.

It is possible to disassemble the formwork in two days, but experts still recommend waiting a few more days. If you have difficulty in removing the form, gently pry off the edge with a spatula. You can also use a brick as a support.

If the concrete product does not imply a decorative layer, the front side is carefully sanded. The sanding procedure removes the remaining irregularities and removes excess glue. You should choose clothes for work that you will not mind ruining. It is better not to use a grinder for such purposes. It is preferable to opt for grinder angular type. Such a device is very convenient when working with horizontal surfaces. You will also need to purchase several grinding wheels.

First, they work with a coarse-grained polishing pad, then take a fine-grained one. Polishing is preferable with a felt wheel. If necessary, cut the product, use a grinder with diamond discs... When sanding, be sure to use protective goggles and a respirator, as well as a vacuum cleaner.

If the surface cannot be polished, it is necessary to prime it by covering it with a special varnish. It is preferable to use a roller. It is important to keep the work piece wet. There is no need to rush, the movements should be neat and even.

When insignificant depressions appear, the situation can be corrected with a special sealing mixture, which has acrylic base... All remaining holes and voids are filled with this composition. If necessary, you can cover the surface with an additional layer. At the end, the countertop is rubbed wax composition... After waiting for it to harden, you should wipe the surface with a clean cloth.

Some craftsmen in the manufacture of concrete countertops do not create a template, skipping this important step, although it is of great importance and should in no way be neglected. Creating a sketch allows you to achieve the ideal parameters of the product. Cardboard scraps connected by means of glue may well be used as a template. If a sink is embedded in the countertop, this point must be taken into account before pouring. This will avoid cutting out the material.

Making a beautiful work surface for the kitchen with your own hands is not easy, but it can be done if you follow step by step instructions having studied all the nuances of the process. The described technology can be used for the manufacture of a kitchen set.

Quite often, starting repairs in their homes, people want to make the interior unusual and exclusive.

You can diversify your kitchen, living room or dining room with an epoxy table. You can do it yourself, having a drawing, the necessary consumables, tools and free time.

Also, with the help of polymer resin, you can return the former attractiveness of an old product that has lost its aesthetics for long years exploitation. Such a piece of furniture will bring special sophistication, originality and bright accents to the room.

Epoxy resin can be classified as an exclusive material. She has mass advantages... The main ones include:

naturalness and safety;
long service life;
exclusive appearance;
convenience and ease of use;
acceptable cost.

With the help of epoxy resin, people create truly unique masterpieces with interesting textures and textures.

What is polymer resin? It is a two component material consisting of a hardener and resin. It can be used to cover the treated surfaces with an even and transparent layer. There are no cracks, bulges or any other defects on such a surface..

Epoxy coated features include:

perfectly flat surfaces;
good resistance to mechanical stress;
moisture resistance;
ease of use and maintenance;
resistance to direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays.

Advice... To prevent the release of toxins, the surface of the table is covered with yacht varnish.

But in addition to the positive qualities, the epoxy resin countertop has and limitations:

the appearance of white flakes inside the filling with a sharp drop in temperature;
the release of toxins at a very high air temperature;
strict adherence to safety measures during cooking work.

Important... When white flakes appear, heat the product to 50 degrees Celsius.

Varieties

According to the types, polymer resin countertops are divided into:

completely made of epoxy without additional construction;
resin coated bases made of wood, chipboard and other materials;
combined products made from epoxy and other materials.

Each individual option has its own advantages.

Important. Epoxy worktops without backing are only acceptable for manufacturing coffee tables... Since such products are not designed for heavy loads.

The products will look very attractive if a composition of dry leaves is made under the coating. You can also add a little multi-colored glitter to the resin to add brightness to the thing.

During restoration old countertops, paint, varnish and any other materials are removed from its surface. The surface can decorate with stones, coins, you can apply ornaments using a router. Under a transparent layer of resin, these compositions will look extraordinarily beautiful.

Choosing an epoxy resin

Epoxy resin is synthetic polymer... This material is not used in its pure form. It shows its properties only after contact with the hardener.

Depending on the combination of components, you can make a resin:

solid;
liquid;
high-strength;
rubbery.

After creating a drawing - project, you can select and consumable... When choosing a material, the following characteristics should be considered:

the material should be transparent... Then it will be possible to achieve any visual effect: make a 3D effect, set the backlight, attach any objects;
life expectancy. The material you choose should freeze slowly... This will make it possible to form patterns, ornaments and give the product the desired shape;
no shrinkage... The material should not lose volume when poured;
degree of viscosity. Material low viscosity, will fill even the most difficult-to-reach areas with good fluidity and prevent the formation of bubbles inside the product.

How to do it?

Drawing

To make it more convenient for you to make furniture, you should make a drawing in advance. With its presence, you will not make mistakes when working. The drawing should indicate the exact dimensions of the product, the shape of the product, and the design. When choosing these sizes, personal needs and the dimensions of the room are taken into account. When choosing sizes, you can build on both general standards and personal wishes. The main thing is that the product is stable and capable of withstanding loads.

Tools and materials

Before starting the workflow, you must put on:

To make a product with decorative elements, you will need the following materials:

plexiglass or plywood formwork;
decorative elements;
sandpaper for grinding;
glue based on epoxy resin.

From instruments will be required:

scales or measuring cups for diluting materials;
pliers;
building level;
plastic spatula;
gas burner or construction hair dryer(to remove air when filling).

Manufacturing

Purchase epoxy for decorative works can be in the store in ready-made kits... These kits include a hardener and resin at once.

Important... It is necessary to prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, in compliance with all proportions.

To mix the components you will need:

Prepare 2 containers the required size and a stirring stick.
Further measure out the right amount of resin and pour in a hardener into it.
Thoroughly mix mix until smooth.

Important... If you mix the solution poorly, the mass will harden badly.

After preparing the solution, you can start making the countertop:

we place the workpiece strictly horizontally. Otherwise, there will be irregularities and sagging on its surface;
the casting mold is cleaned and dried in advance. Moisture must not get on the work surface;
it is recommended to work with the material at an air temperature above 22 degrees Celsius. But teach, the higher the temperature, the faster the solution will solidify;
if bubbles form inside during pouring, they can be removed with a syringe or cocktail tube.

Solid wood table top

In the manufacture of a single-color tabletop with a base, the stage-by-stage work consists in:

Degreasing work surface... The tree is pre-primed with resin, as it absorbs liquid.
Further the mixture is being prepared from epoxy and flooded in the form.
After that, we leave the furniture for 10-15 minutes... If bubbles appear during the work, remove them.
After 2 days we grind surface and polish the product.
A week later, after the material has completely hardened, the table is ready for use.

Fill with decor

To make a product with decor, you need to prepare the filler. These can be: coins, pebbles, bottle caps, colored sand. The workflow proceeds in the following sequence:

Important. The resin is poured in a thin stream at one point. This will prevent the formation of voids in corners and hard-to-reach areas.

Installing the countertop

After making an epoxy countertop, it is necessary for the frame. In order not to drill holes in the poured surface for installing the legs, these places should be outlined in advance and reinforced with small pieces of pipes required diameter... After the material has hardened, these pipes are pulled out, and products are installed in their place.

Photo

The results of working with epoxy can be amazing:

Useful video

All stages of the process as well as many important nuances can be seen in the following video:

Finishing

The finished product is considered after the resin has completely solidified. But after that, the tabletop requires finishing... It is sanded, polished and varnished in several layers. All these procedures will save your product from negative factors. the environment such as hitting direct sun rays, will give the product shine and aesthetic appearance.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that if you do not have experience in making furniture, but really want to try yourself in this industry, make an epoxy countertop with your own hands. Even a beginner can cope with this job. The main thing is to prepare all the necessary materials, tools, drawing. Show your imagination, and then you will get an exclusive and unique handmade product.

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Marble stains are mesmerizing. But marble is soft, which is why it is rare in the kitchen. Hard granite, but difficult to work with. Concrete - fake diamond, it is lighter, more varied in color and pattern. An acrylic or epoxy conglomerate countertop would compensate for the disadvantages stone slabs, if not for the price. Casting yourself out of concrete, feeling like a sculptor - isn't it an idea? Having plunged into technological tricks, it turns out that concrete does not conceal any particular difficulties.

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Features of concrete in the manufacture of kitchen furniture

Desired properties of furniture concrete:

does not crack at low thickness, that is, it has sufficient toughness,
does not create an extra high load on furniture supports,
absorbs a minimum of heat,
the plate must be highly decorative, fit into the interior,
lends itself to grinding, polishing, and therefore filling granules are selected with a hardness identical to concrete,
the mass is created with a homogeneous consistency, but thick, plastic - in such a way as to fill the mold by hand, without filling (the used construction term "casting" is not entirely correct here),
as a result, a solid plate with a thickness of up to 40 mm is the main requirement.

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The listed properties are achieved by adding washed quartz sand, marble chips, plasticizers, broken glass, stable (dry / pasty) dyes to the cement (grade not lower than 400).

Interesting: white grout for tile joints is white cement M500, which has all the properties of a molding material.

The chaotic mosaic is interesting. Pieces of polished onyx, marble are placed at the very bottom of the mold, the gaps are filled with a mixture of sand, cement, and crumbs. Fragments at the bottom should not be polished - for bonding. The thinner the mosaic elements, the stronger the monolith.

Design and creation of a drawing

A product that is longer than 4 m must be reinforced. Depending on the method of reinforcement, concrete countertops are subdivided into:

with chipboard filling,
reinforced with metal,
fiberglass.

Reinforcement methods are as follows:

From channels, corners, triangular brackets up to 60 cm are welded (the width may be greater), they are fastened with a step of 0.5 m to the wall along the level using dowels. This provides access to the floor that has not yet been equipped. Level from concrete screed gender is h = 25 (floor) +850 ( kitchen cabinets) - 30 - 30 = 815 (mm), the first 30 mm - the thickness of the concrete of the countertop, the second 30 mm - moisture resistant plywood grounds. The wall is grooved until a groove is formed. The groove is filled with strips of polystyrene (the plate will "play" in size, heating up and then cooling down). The board of the countertop is mounted on a plywood sheet. Pour in. Replacement of plywood - two sheets of fiberboard fastened together.

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A reinforcing welded grid made of a metal bar is placed in the pouring tray between the layers of concrete, having previously treated the inset structure with an anti-corrosion compound. The rods do not reach the 5 cm slab contour.

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With a total tabletop height of 35 mm, the first layer of fiberglass is laid after pouring 15 mm of concrete, the second after 20 mm, by pressing. The third layer is applied on top.

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But the most advanced reinforcement is chipboard filling: with it, the tabletop weighs less, the plate is drilled, it becomes possible to reduce the thickness and reduce the cost. An important point - the fiberboard itself is used again as an insert after the template is made. Paradoxically, combining fiberboard with concrete must be prevented (the tensile coefficient of the materials is different). The recessed sheet has the value of a substrate, it is impregnated with linseed oil even before it comes into contact with cement.

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It is safer to mount and transport a "sandwich" of both layers. So that the fiberboard does not fall out of the nest, it is wound with tape, the last stage is glued with mounting glue.

Combination different ways reinforcement is always permissible. Welded lines are used to reinforce around large holes. It is important to prepare the reinforcement inserts in advance because the casting process takes only 50 minutes. After the first setting, the concrete cannot be moved and moved: the structure will be broken. Complete hardening occurs after 2 weeks.

Drawing, template

Working with the plan, you need to decide where the hob will be, where is the sink. It is important to use the capabilities of the cast worktop to the maximum: arbitrary configuration allows you to place the sink in the protruding "crest" of the wave, the hob can stand across, and not along the wall. Perhaps you need to abandon the semicircular break of the table and give the edges a kind of avant-garde shape.

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Original, remember the modularity of the sideboards, upper cabinets. Having measured the wall, they are looking for options in a grid with a step of 20, 30 cm (scale 1:10), entering hob, oven, extractor hood and taking into account that all the furniture will be covered with the same type of doors, flanges - it should look complete, rhythmically.

Two strips of fiberboard set the value of each specific angle in place, fasten the sheets glue gun... Then they bring the sheet to the wall, mark on the fiberboard future slots, protrusions for niches, wall turns, sink contours, an electric stove, etc. ceramic apron). You also need to take into account that the real angles of the premises differ from 90 degrees.

Experimenting with color

Determine whether the table top should be light or dark, perhaps gray?
Reddish, beige, yellowish or cold.
The incoming blotches are dark on white. Then from what? Ditto for the opposite effect.

Cut off the milk box, mix the sample, adding broken brown, green, transparent glass, mica, amber, along with the dye. The result is corrected.

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Regardless of the additives, the concrete base is classic:

for casting - cement + river (preferably quartz) sand, ratio 1: 4;
for modeling - the ratio is 1: 3.

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Water is added gradually. The density of the first solution is oil. The density of the second is plasticine. The mold is poured first. The second is kneaded for frame concrete.

During the creation of the sample, the ratio of the ingredients is recorded. The main components are common. To improve the plasticity of the mass, it is recommended to add 150 g to 25 kg of cement washing powder(solution). There is a universal concrete plasticizer on the market that improves toughness and plasticity.

Form preparation

On sturdy table put chipboard, exceeding the contours of the product by 20 cm. The surface is covered with PVC, with a sheet of thicknesses. 2 mm (options - polystyrene, fiberboard). With strips of chipboard (planed beams) on the drawn contours, spread the board lubricated with silicone, fix it with self-tapping screws, clamping it so that the silicone goes beyond the gap. The excess is erased. To form a facet at the junction of the substrate and the bead, a hose with a diameter of 1 cm is fixed, filling the gap of the hose and flat surfaces with window putty.

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You can set the facet configuration yourself. To do this, a wooden plank is thinned at the edge "under the shoulder blade", the profile is cut with a jigsaw. Constructed from hardwood, water repellent properties obtained from impregnation sunflower oil... With such an abacus, the window putty is distributed with broaches.

In order to avoid leaving the board from the perpendicular, it is strengthened with stiffening ribs from pieces of plywood, chipboard.

The circles are laid out with thick plastic, also fastening them on the "ribs", drilling "in the sweep". Sharp bends are made of strips of thick plastic of the same height as the side, heated to 160 degrees. The work is carried out, protecting hands with thermal gloves. A tungsten filament behind a metal box, covered with an even larger box - a simplified heater design. Plastics choose refractory.

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Places of pipe entries, cutouts are laid with plastic plugs from shampoos, from old cans, polypropylene pipes, etc., fastening with a glue gun. Level-checked sides are sprayed with liquid wax (soap bar, as an option) from a household spray. The dried surfaces are protected from adhesion to concrete 2-3 times.

Fill the table

The concrete mixer is filled with cement - 60% of the volume, sand - 10%, solid fractions - 29.5%. Water is only 0.5%. Check the viscosity, transfer by hand or in bulk from buckets. The mobile concrete is spread with a trowel. Plasticine is trampled down with palms, small blocks of wood. Aligned along the upper edge with a bar (or building level type "knife"). Aligned, cover without gaps with plastic wrap.

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The thick mass (for "stucco" tables) is laid by a team of manufacturers: in 50 minutes you need to have time to lay out, compact.

Laying decorative elements and inserting fasteners

The location of the grooves for the dowels, metal corners, if required, are set in advance, marked on the template. Then the template is attached to wooden frame coinciding with the contour board. The template sheet is drilled (cut through) on the marks.

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The grooves for the dowels are formed by the dowels themselves, and the corners are welded onto pieces of a reinforcing mesh. Moving the corners along the non-frozen mass, they find a match with the template, pour it on top.

The pre-cast molded brackets with protruding reinforcement are welded to the reinforcing mesh. The inserts protruding beyond the countertop are aligned with angles and level according to the marks indicated on the template.

Grinding, polishing

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After 2 weeks, the countertop is opened, moistened several times, dried - to ensure the end of the chemical processes. A dry slab is ground first from the bottom. Then it is turned over, moistened, dried and polished with a grinder with grain size P 80. The grain size is increased by 50 values, and continues to be ground until a “mirror” surface is obtained. The end of the process is P 500 emery with the addition of water. The grinder must have guaranteed moisture protection. In inaccessible places, a round stick with a skin fixed on it, a wooden block is used.

Restoration of an old concrete countertop

Primer for concrete is applied to the old concrete countertop, and it is dried. Distribute with a spatula a composition similar to the previous one. Cracks are filled with a knife, awl, trowel. The dried surface is sanded, giving it water-repellent properties with liquid wax, polishing wooden surfaces(like Pronto).

Video: how to make a concrete countertop, a kitchen sink with your own hands - instructions

Above we looked at how to make a concrete countertop, below - instructions for making a sink with your own hands.

Wide planes are comfortable, visually expanding the space. Arrangement of the kitchen with ordinary rectangular worktops can be achieved by cutting chipboard plates, MDF. Is it worth bothering with the casting process if only rectangular shapes? Also, in a small kitchen it is impossible to appreciate a spectacular wavy line. You need at least 4–5 meters of a free wall.