How to properly fix the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. How to install an air conditioner in an apartment: layout diagrams. A few words about which split system to choose

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and classes. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and humidity in the simplest way. Agree, in the summer period there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.

After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home masters and for customers of installers' services to check proper execution.

We describe in detail the installation process, lists the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. A valuable addition to the text, which facilitates the perception of information, are photo and video applications.

When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.

The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of the split system are above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on a site near a window or on balcony slabs

Exist certain rules, which must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:

• the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
• from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
• to a barrier that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.

For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the plates enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based technical requirements to the wall of the ventilation facade used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the mass of the installation unit

For high-rise building, especially if the apartment is located on the top floor, you will need to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of equipment location is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on model range and characteristics.

Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be done arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between Daikin split system blocks is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route should be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to start installing a split system on your own comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. Incredibly high amounts for the performance of the work, which takes 3 hours, are argued by the presence of expensive tools and its wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the services of the master.

If the prices from split system installers are too high, it is worth installing with my own hands having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that preparatory work can be done on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connection to electrical network, carrying out the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware installation tools

It is possible to carry out independent installation of the cooling unit, because. most of the tools are in the suitcase of the home master. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of masters do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If, when installing the air conditioner yourself, it was not possible to find a vacuum pump, an alternative would be a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower

During installation important aspect is the observance of the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check. building level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

The following equipment will need to be prepared in advance:

1. Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which a route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
2. Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
3. Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
4. Device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
5. Roller of copper pipes.

Some believe that the use of a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.

Only after the beveler has been manipulated, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.

The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is carried out by the method of deformation of the tube according to the selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and round section are preserved.

According to the technical rules of installation, it is necessary to have vacuum pump- sealing of the air conditioning system is performed by this equipment. After filling the line with refrigerant, the process of evacuation is carried out.

Purchase of necessary materials

You will need a lot of components, but they are all easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.

Standard is a four-wire power cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​​​2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

Still need to prepare seamless pipes thick-walled type made of soft copper, designed for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected smaller and larger diameters. For more specific specifications, please refer to the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be covered to protect against dust settling inside the product.

Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy well flared and provides proper tightness

Foam rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in segments of 2 m. To implement measures for thermal insulation, a length equal to the length of the route will be required. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.

As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with a surcharge of 80 cm.

You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the margin of safety for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing the bracket for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, do not make additional holes in it, because. this significantly reduces the margin of safety of the part

As fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box with standard dimensions of 60 * 80 cm.

Split system installation procedure

Installing an air conditioning system on your own is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions specifically for the purchased equipment model.

Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units

The indoor unit is to be installed first. Having decided on the location of its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling backlashes, plastic plugs for dowels are inserted, a card is hung and fixed with dowels.

The most thorough fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because. on this site are the latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using the building level, the exposure to the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is coming. First, the line of its location is calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. So, the formed condensate will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the units, it is required to check the hole designed to accommodate the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it is the turn of the installation of the outdoor unit. If it's about high-rise building, you will need special equipment for high-rise works.

As in the first case, the strict horizontal position of the block must be maintained, therefore, a level is also used at the markup stage.

When positioning the outdoor unit, the limitation regarding its slope must be taken into account - the maximum allowable slope angle is 45°

At the time of installation of fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts ( standard diameter 10*100 mm), regardless of their number. After that, the outdoor unit is exposed and also fixed with fasteners.

Stage # 2 - laying a communication line

With the help of an electric wire and two copper tubes, the connection between the outdoor and indoor units is carried out. Additionally, a drainage system will be laid through the wall, which is responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be properly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, you should prepare the copper pipes by cutting the desired length with a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, inside the tube gets metal shavings, which will circulate through the system and eventually lead to compressor failure.

To lead copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust

Thermal insulation of tubes is carried out by putting polyurethane foam hoses on them. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a sealant - it has a short service life. After completing the measures for thermal insulation, all the connecting sections of the material are tightly glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with tongs.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both units, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.

The drain tube is connected to a special outlet on the indoor unit and is led out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, its laying is carried out at an angle to the exit to the outside. Requires fixing with clamps every meter of length to eliminate sagging in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate.

Stage # 3 - connecting the system blocks

Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount in freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: bring it into the sewer or into the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it is not widely used.

When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, sagging is also not allowed - condensate will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.

For the outer part of the device, a similar procedure is performed, but many people ignore it. If instead of a hose polymer pipe, the appropriate adapter is selected. With it, connect the output of the block and the tube.

To connect copper pipes, you need to initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.

The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and a sharp crease. First of all, they are connected to the indoor unit. To do this, loosen the nuts on the respective ports.

When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped at the time of production to eliminate the oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal chips from entering the system.

The edges of the pipes in a section of 5 cm are aligned. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the input and output of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness, in the process of moving freon.

The flared end of the pipe is connected to necessary exit and secured with a nut. It is forbidden to use any accessories– sealants, gaskets, etc. The applied copper tubes provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly compress the fitting, and the contact will be tight

Similar actions are done with all four ports. After connection, the last stage of the installation of the air conditioning system follows - the elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during installation.

Stage #4 - evacuation of the system

During the installation work air enters the air conditioner pipes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles adversely affect all details. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when it comes into contact with water. As a result, the wear of components will accelerate.

Two methods can be used to remove air: a vacuum pump or not a large number of freon liquid, which descends from the block located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with little surplus.

The “puff” method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, the plugs are unscrewed on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of a larger diameter. Under its cover is a hexagon socket. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90 ° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. With a second finger pressure on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal of air, the spool outlet is screwed with a plug, and the valves open completely and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, insignificant factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, pipe rolling without stripping the rim, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful in all details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the issue of installing split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.

In the hot summer, people begin to understand what they lack in home improvement.
Air conditioning allows:

• get rid of problems such as heat and stuffiness;
• maintain the desired level of temperature in the room, as comfortable as possible for humans and household appliances.

Unlike fans, causing drafts and leading to colds, modern air conditioners maintain the set temperature regime in automatic mode without problematic movements of air flows.

According to their design, household appliances are divided into two main classes:

• monoblock;
• multiblock devices.

Monoblock plants consist of one working unit and are divided into the following main types:

• Window. Such devices must be installed in window opening. Modern systems are produced with a power of 1.5-6 kW, can have additional system air heating, automatic temperature control and remote control. The price of this air conditioner from 12000 rubles and higher, depending on the configuration.

• Monoblock air conditioner mobile type designed for floor installation and can move around the apartment. He does not require special installation; the only condition is that the air outlet hose must be brought out. The hose has a diameter of up to 15 cm and a length of up to 2 m, which limits movement in the distance to the window.

• rooftop devices, which are rarely used as domestic installations.

Multi-block structures are represented by split systems different installation with two or more blocks. They have an outdoor unit containing a compressor and are installed outside the room, and one or more indoor units for air distribution.

• The most common type of split system is wall variant indoor unit. It connects electrically and hydraulically to the outdoor unit and is fixed to the wall anywhere in the room. Such devices are produced with a power of 2-7 kW and are able to cool a room ranging from 12 to 75 square meters. m. The distance between the elements (pipeline length) is selected up to 7 m.

• Unlike a simple split with 1 indoor unit, a multi-split system is based on an installation of 2 to 5 internal devices, which may have different design and power (within 2-5 kW). Such a system allows you to distribute air conditioning throughout the apartment, without cluttering outer surface walls with additional blocks.

Air conditioner power calculation

The choice of air conditioner power. This important parameter of the device depends on the volume of the room.

• S- the area of ​​the room;
• H- ceiling height;
• q- the heat transfer coefficient of the walls (for the sunny side q=40, for the shady side - q=30) with the addition of 10% for the heat generated by people and household appliances (except for the kitchen).

For example, for a room with an area of ​​​​30 square meters, a height of 2.5 m, facing the sunny side of the house, the power should be 30 x 2.5 x 40 x 1.1 \u003d 3300 watts. Standard power range of split systems: 2; 2.6; 3.5; 5.3 and 7 kW. Hence, you will have to choose an air conditioner with a capacity of 3.5 kW.

How to choose the right air conditioner

With the onset of the summer season, many are wondering: which air conditioner to choose? When selecting, in addition to power, We recommend that you pay attention to the following characteristics:

• electricity consumption, the length of the freon line;
• weight;
• drainage features, design;
• important - the presence of automatic temperature control, remote control, the presence of fittings for fastening;
• and, of course, the price of the device.

Watch our video on how to choose the right air conditioner:

The principle of operation of the air conditioner

All household split systems have a similar operating principle:

• The air is cooled by coolant(freon) at the moment of transformation into gas in the evaporator chamber takes in a lot of heat.
• Vacuum pump gaseous freon is pumped out of the chamber and enters the condensation chamber, where again turns into a liquid.
• Then a new cycle begins, and so it repeats constantly. It should also be taken into account that in the evaporation chamber when freon evaporates, water condensate is formed, accumulating at the bottom of the chamber and requiring withdrawal (drainage).

A feature of the split system is remote separation of the location of the condensation chamber, compressor and vacuum pump, and the evaporation chamber.
Due to the fact that all elements that emit noise (compressor, pump) are located in the outdoor unit and taken out of the room, it is ensured silent operation.
Freon is distilled through annealed copper tubes through the indoor unit, where the evaporation chamber is located and the air is cooled.

The energy consumption of the system can be reduced by the following measures:

• the minimum length of the freon line;
• good drainage of the evaporation chamber;
• exclusion of heating of the outdoor unit under the influence of direct sunlight.

Energy consumption is reduced when the outdoor unit is lower than the indoor unit, just as when heated, any liquid itself rushes up, which means that it does not have to be promoted artificially.

The tightness of the entire system is important - any microscopic defects can lead to freon volatilization.

Installing an air conditioner and a split system with your own hands

Installing a split air conditioner includes the following main steps:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Installation of outdoor and indoor units.
3. Freon piping.
4. Installation of a drainage system.
5. Installation of the electrical circuit.
6. Filling refrigerant and sealing the system.
7. Test and launch.

For mounting do-it-yourself air conditioner, you must prepare the following tool in advance:

• perforator, electric drill and screwdriver;
• rolling set;
• vacuum pump and gauge manifold;
• pipe processing tool - pipe cutter, scraper, reamer, pipe bender;
• Screwdriver Set;
• a set of socket and wrench keys;
• Adjustable wrench;
• tester;
• level and plumb;
• Bulgarian.

How to choose a humidifier? What is the use of this device, and is there any harm? Details.

How to choose and install it yourself? Let's figure it out.

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When installing the device yourself, you will need next material for installation and equipment:

• for freon route: copper tube (two sizes); return nuts for tubes (two sizes); material for thermal insulation of the route;
• for electrical installation: cable, circuit breaker at least 25A, connecting (terminal) block, RCD, PVC electrical tape, corrugated pipe for cable;
• for the drainage system: hose for outdoor and indoor units, fittings for connecting to sewer system and connections;
• for fastening: brackets for the outdoor unit, mounting plate for the indoor unit anchor bolts, dowels and screws, rope (cable) to hold the outdoor unit during installation;
• for filling and sealing: freon bottle, silicone sealant;
• auxiliary elements: plastic boxes for pipes and drainage (60-100 mm) and cable (20-30 mm), clamps, pipeline fasteners, screws, dowels.

Preparatory work

The preparatory phase includes a number activities without which you can not start work:

1. preparation of the mounting kit;
2. studying instructions;
3. checking the availability of all details;
4. determination of the place of attachment of blocks;
5. route marking; clarification of the possibility of the power grid.

Installation work must begin by reading the instructions by use. Without instructions, where the specified parameters of the device are given, quality installation impossible. If the instruction is lost, then you should find an air conditioner similar in model (company office, service centers, Internet).

The instructions specify the following parameters:

• operating current;
• permissible length and diameter of the pipeline;
• drainage requirements specific installation requirements;
• type of refrigerant and its working pressure;
• mass of blocks.

Block placement

When determining the place where it is necessary to install an air conditioner in an apartment, certain rules must be followed.

• The internal one is installed close to the ceiling, but not closer than 15 cm.
• There must be a free gap of at least 10 cm around the block.
• During installation, the unit should be hung obliquely at an angle of up to 5 degrees.
• The location of the element should allow free supply of pipes and cables, and be away from heat sources.
• The distance to the block from the window should not exceed maximum dimensions set for the length of the freon route.
• The outdoor unit is installed on outside the walls are lower than the inner one, but not more than 3 m.
• Its location must be chosen so that the installation is easy to carry out from the window opening.
• The length of the pipes from the block to the entrance to the room should not exceed 1 m.
• During installation, the outer element is moved away from the wall by 10 cm. It is forbidden to install the unit near the gas pipeline.

Planned block installation sites are marked with chalk or a marker with mounting brackets. Then between them piping route is marked for freon and power cable. noted mounting location of electrical distribution box. Drainage systems are being marked s and diverting it into the sewer.

Wiring and laying a freon route

Installation of the system consists in fixing the blocks, laying and fixing the pipeline, electrical wiring and drainage system.

The pipeline and cable along the wall can be laid in three ways:

• penalty;
• plastic box;
• corrugated hose.

Penalties allow you to make a hidden route, but require a lot of time and effort. For laying all highways in concrete, a standard channel size 40 x 60 mm.

Chasing is carried out using a grinder, puncher or wall chaser. The easiest and most high-quality way is to use a wall chaser, which allows you to make a channel in one pass, but the cost of such a power tool is high. More a common method is to cut 2 longitudinal slots with a grinder followed by sampling of concrete between the slots with a perforator.

An easier laying method is a plastic hose or box. They are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes with a diameter of about 8 mm are drilled in the marked places. To draw a route through a wall, it breaks through hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm using a perforator.

Installation of the drainage system

Proper installation - draining the air conditioner into the sewer, but this is realized only with a close location of sewer pipes. Most often, the drainage hoses are simply brought out (the volume of condensate is small and is released in the form of drops). A feature of laying drainage is the need to ensure the self-flow of water, i.e. the hose should be lowered by 3 cm for every 1 m of gasket length.

Electrical connection

The cable for power supply of the units is placed in a corrugated hose or a stub pierced in the wall. It is pulled through the wall into the same hole as the tubes. Along the outer wall and in the wall hole wiring is located in the corrugation. The channel for laying inside the wall has dimensions of at least 10 x 10 mm.

The outlet of the electrical circuit of the air conditioner from the main electrical network is carried out in the nearest junction box, if the section of the supply wires allows. Often, necessary into an existing channel extend additional cable(wire) of the desired section. A terminal block is installed in the junction box, in which the connection is made.

Introductory RCD is installed on the electrical panel with a circuit breaker for a current of at least 25 A.

The figure shows circuit diagram air conditioner connections:

Split system installation

The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets, the dimensions of which must take into account the weight of the device, as well as weather factors (snow, icing, wind). The brackets are fastened with anchor bolts, and the holes in the wall for them are punched with a perforator. Usually brackets are included. It is recommended to install a canopy over the outdoor unit.

To install the indoor unit pre-on wall fixed with dowels mounting plate included with the air conditioner. Holes for dowels are drilled with an electric drill or punched with a puncher. The block itself, according to the installation technology, is installed with an inclination at an angle of 3 to 5 degrees to direct the cool air down.

When laying copper pipes, special attention should be paid to their bending. To avoid deformations, bending should be carried out using a special device - a pipe bender. The permissible bending diameter is 20 cm. The tube must be cut with a pipe cutter, and the cut end must be processed with a scraper.

A heat-insulating hose made of polyurethane foam is put on the pipes(flex). Threaded flanges (back nuts) are installed on the ends of the tubes, and the end is rolled with a reamer. The flanges are installed on the fittings of the blocks and tightened, but so as not to deform the soft copper base of the tube.

Special attention - the thread of the flanges must be directed towards the end, and when fastening the cold outlet of one unit must not be connected to the hot outlet of another.

Charging refrigerant and completing the installation

The final stage of installation of the air conditioner includes filling the system with refrigerant, sealing and testing.

After the installation is completed, the power supply is connected and the system is charged with freon.

• air is pumped out using a vacuum pump;
• then the system is filled with freon from a cylinder, where it is under pressure.

The tightness of the structure is controlled by a manometric manifold.

If the collector shows no pressure increase within 60 minutes, then the tightness is considered normal; otherwise, the sealing of the joints should be checked. The easiest way to check is soap suds. The broken joints are sealed by applying silicone sealant.

Testing is carried out when turned on different modes. Switching on is done using an automatic switch, and the test mode is set on the air conditioner.

To learn how to install the air conditioner yourself, see the video:

Rules for the use of air conditioners

When using the air conditioner in Everyday life you should follow some rules:

• it is impossible to direct a strong stream directly at a person, so as not to cause a cold;
• it is not recommended to allow a temperature difference between adjacent rooms of more than 10 degrees;
• recommended optimum temperature- 20-22 degrees;
• you should periodically turn off the device and ventilate the room to restore the ozone content;
• it is recommended to apply;
• need preventive measures– replacement of filters, addition of freon, system cleaning.

It is forbidden to turn on a faulty air conditioner: sparking in places of electrical contact, clicking inside, cable heating, refrigerant leakage.

air conditioner installation cost

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires certain costs - the purchase of fasteners, refrigerant, auxiliary materials. In general, all costs should not exceed 1000 rubles.

Installing an air conditioner by a specialist can be produced without spending your own time and effort, but will require at the lowest prices from 6000 rubles. By time installation of a split system will take no more than 8 hours in the presence of the right tools and materials.

This article will discuss how to install the air conditioner with your own hands. Experts strongly recommend preparing the climate device for intensive use in advance. Installation of air conditioners is a responsible and rather complicated event from a technical point of view. With a certain desire, practical skills and a theoretical base, installation work can be done by hand.

The efficiency and duration of the operation of a split system depend on how accurately the installation rules are followed. Wrong place, incorrectly selected equipment for installation, its inconsistency specifications operation, violation of technology - all this can eventually lead to a breakdown of the unit. And even the most expensive devices fail without revealing their potential.

Properly organizing the whole process will not work if you do not have an idea about the principle of operation of this climate apparatus.

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The principle of operation of the unit

All models of split systems offered for sale are built and operate according to the same principle. They consist of a compressor and an evaporator unit. To connect them, special pipes are used. The outdoor unit is mounted outside the wall.

Unit device

An evaporator is installed inside the room. More productive and expensive models are equipped with several with a common compressor.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner at home:

1. 1. High-pressure refrigerant (freon) is supplied through a nozzle, the diameter of which corresponds to the outlet pipes.
2. 2. It goes to the inside of the evaporator, where it gradually expands, and after some time it completely boils. The generated steam actively absorbs heat.
3. 3. In the process of absorption, condensate is certainly released in the form of water, which settles on the surface of the radiator.
4. 4. Moisture is transferred to the tank, and then discharged outside the walls of the house.

If the installation of the air conditioner is done professionally and correctly, the compressor will constantly pump out freon vapors from the internal chamber, while the internal pressure increases in parallel. As a result, the refrigerant heats up, which contributes to its transformation into a dense fog.

The refrigerant is redirected to the condensation chamber, where it is cooled by an integrated fan, transforming into a liquid. In this state, it is sent to the evaporator (through the nozzle) and everything closes in a circle.

note! If you install an air conditioner inside a room near a heating device, then the energy consumption will increase significantly, and the device itself will most likely fail after a few months of operation..

Even ordinary dust can lead to breakage of the climate unit. Wet cleaning is not only necessary, but also prescribed, and thorough, regular and thorough. Indoors, it is strictly forbidden to put any products or objects on the unit itself. It is also impossible to cover it with a tablecloth.

Scheme of work

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation without fail involves sealing all connecting elements and joints, which will level the likelihood of refrigerant evaporation. Experts recommend placing the outdoor unit in such a way that it is lower in level than the indoor unit. The standard installation of the air conditioner involves the location of the outdoor unit in a cool place, in the shade.

The device and principle of operation of the air conditioner



Tools and preparations

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner cannot be done without pre-training tools:

• electrical tester;
• bicycle and vacuum pumps;
• pipe cutter;
• perforator;
• indicator;
• example;
• pipe flaring kit.

Required Mounting Tools

This is just a basic set of accessories necessary for the installation of air conditioners. Additionally, you will need a full coil of copper tube (note that its ends must be rolled initially, at the factory). Any visual defects (dents, scratches) are simply not acceptable.

note! Installation of air conditioning systems is impossible without making holes in the walls, damaging the exterior and interior finishes, so the work should be carried out in parallel with the repair.



Step-by-step instructions for installing the climate system

After purchasing the climate unit and preparing the necessary tools, you can proceed to the main pool of work. The installation scheme is quite simple:

• choice of location for the installation of the unit.
• installation of brackets on which the unit will be installed.
• Initially, the installation of the external (outdoor) unit of the unit is carried out.
• then the indoor unit and other elements of the system are mounted inside the object.

note! In the process of performing the relevant work, it is extremely important to strictly observe safety standards, especially when it comes to a height of 2-3 floors. Knowing how to install the air conditioner yourself should not go against the precautions.



The choice of a place for the installation of the unit is no less important than the purchase of the climatic device itself. Experts advise taking into account a number of requirements when choosing a place for the indoor unit:

• remoteness from the side wall - from 30 cm;
• distance from the ceiling - at least 15 cm;
• to the nearest large object that disrupts the movement of air masses - from 150 cm.

Unit placement options

As for the location of the outdoor unit, perfect place a balcony is considered, but provided that it is open. In the case of a glazed loggia, you can stop at the option of mounting on the fence, with sufficient bearing capacity this design. We recommend that residents of the first and second floors place this part of the split system above the window so as not to cause inconvenience and level the likelihood of theft.

note! In the case of a private house, no strict recommendations are provided.

Choosing a place for the unit

If there are several air conditioner units, then the minimum distance between them should be at least 1.5 m, optimally - 3 m. A number of manufacturers do not regulate this value and you can select it yourself. But it is better to refuse the “sandwich” option, in which neighboring blocks are located with the back side to each other.

The distance between 2 blocks indoors is from 6 m. More is allowed, but in this case, refueling with refrigerant cannot be avoided. It is better to invest in the specified value.

Where to install the air conditioner

Installation of brackets for air conditioning

Brackets for installing the unit

So, where is the best place to install an air conditioner? – The climate control unit is fixed in an unhindered access zone. Balcony air conditioner installation best option. This type of equipment requires periodic and high-quality maintenance.

Experts strongly recommend placing the outdoor unit on the north or east side. Installation of a window air conditioner is often performed at the bottom of the balcony. This zone is considered the best, because it allows you to freely open the window, service the unit. The sequence of actions is simple:

1. 1. The fixing points of the brackets are indicated and marked with a level.
2. 2. Holes are formed under the anchor bolts.
3. 3. For communications, it is necessary to prepare a through hole, its diameter should be at least 8 cm. It is better to make mounting recesses and recesses in the space between adjacent bricks, this will not only simplify the work, but also make them visually neater.

Bracket dimensions

The brackets are installed in accordance with the preliminary marking, adjusting them according to the level and screwing in the anchor bolts. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there should be about 10 cm of free space between the base of the wall and the air conditioning unit. Gaps must be carefully sealed. After making sure that this block is securely fastened, the installation steps continue, but already inside the room.

ATTENTION! Don't skimp on brackets.

Brackets for air conditioners. What is the difference?

Outdoor unit fixing

Starting to fix the outdoor unit, you need to make sure that the wall is structurally reliable and durable. Large models can weigh more than 50 kg, and in some cases more. Household climate units weigh about 15 kg, and there are no problems with their fastening. Experts advise to provide a margin of safety for all fasteners and walls at least 2 times.

Advice! If your house has external insulation, you should make sure that the brackets are fixed not to it, but to the wall itself.

In recent years, in the segment of private development, such material as aerated concrete has been especially popular. With all their positive qualities it is not able to provide sufficient strength for mounting the air conditioner. The same is the case with the ventilated facade.

note! During the installation process, it is extremely important to ensure a horizontal level for the product, while you can use the building level. The slightest deviations are fraught with improper circulation of the refrigerant.

Proper fixing of the outdoor unit

• the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be blown by the wind from all sides (if possible);
• the body is better placed under a canopy;
• upper floor residents apartment buildings they can be placed directly on the roof;
• the maximum line length is 15 m, if this value is exceeded, then cold losses increase.

Professionals most close attention pay competent arrangement of the drain for the removal of condensate. In accordance with the rules and regulations, this tube must be connected to the sewer system. That's just our compatriots in the vast majority neglect it, completely in vain.

The outdoor unit should be at least 10 cm away from the wall surface. It is required to ensure high-quality blowing of the unit. If you do not withstand it, then the device may completely fail. Remember that any activities associated with the installation of the outdoor unit are associated with a high risk to health, since these are high-altitude work.

Fixing the indoor unit

Professionals categorically prohibit placing the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above the battery. Self-installation of the air conditioner in these places is fraught with failure of the device's processor. Having decided on the place, it is imperative to check the wall for other communication solutions (heating pipes, plumbing, electrical wiring).

Fixing the indoor unit

Direct installation of a window air conditioner is possible only if there is a free area. First of all, a metal plate is mounted: at least 10 cm must be retreated from the ceiling, and about 7 cm from the base of the wall. Distances are marked with a pencil. Holes are made for fasteners, and the plate is securely screwed.

Fixed plate for indoor unit

The further installation scheme involves fixing the indoor unit on an already attached plate. A hole is made in the wall parallel to the gasket copper cable, hoses for condensate, pipes, as well as electrical wiring. Standard includes all necessary products, solutions and elements.

Electrical connection

Electrical connection diagram

The indoor unit functions only if it has its own wiring, the cross section of which must be at least 1.5 square meters. mm. A mandatory requirement is the presence of a shutdown machine, especially if it is the installation of industrial air conditioners. The wiring is connected to the shield only when it is fully laid: to neutral wire connect a yellow wire with a small green stripe.

note! In order to determine the phase and zero, it is most effective to use an indicator.

The rules for installing an air conditioner require the connection of individual units using insulated stranded wires, previously passed through a hole in the wall. Each climate control unit comes with instructions that clearly indicate the wiring diagram and sequence.

Answering the question of how to properly install an air conditioner, professionals invariably state that the key to the success of this entire event depends on the quality and literacy of laying copper pipes. They are cut in such a way that there is a small margin (about 0.8-1 m) for bends.

Pipe laying

It is simply not possible to bend them, since dents, wrinkles will form, and the metal may even crack.

note! The installation of industrial air conditioners, as well as household ones, involves the use of special pipe benders. They allow you to maintain the structural integrity of the tubes. For window air conditioners, this moment is the key to effective functioning.

Only after this, the tubes can be covered with polyurethane foam hoses, which play the role of thermal insulation. As for the traditional foam rubber, it is completely unsuitable in this context, due to the short service life. Flanges for threading are worn solely on the fact of pipe insulation.

Installation and installation of air conditioners is carried out with mandatory flaring, while the process itself requires utmost care in order to eliminate the risk of grooves and microcracks. Be that as it may, spare parts and the necessary tools should always be at hand. On rolling, the nut should be placed easily, but when tightening, it is better to use a torque wrench, which eliminates the likelihood of small particles being squeezed out of the machined area.

Further, it is enough to fix the corresponding pipeline at each fitting. A small piece of pipe in a reinforced casing is attached to the drain pipe (for such cases, it is better to use heat-shrinkable tubes).

Advice! An important component of the successful installation of an air conditioner at home is the presence of a drainage pipe located at the maximum possible distance from the bearing walls.

The next step is to insert pipes into the holes in the wall, while they should be placed as evenly as possible. At the wall, the canvas is fixed with clamps. An air conditioner with installation outside the home must be mounted extremely securely. Small holes fill mounting foam. To check the tightness, you can use a soapy solution.

Vacuum system

To install air conditioners, it is necessary to evacuate the system. Even if the activities are carried out at home, this is indispensable, since moisture and fine dust are removed as part of the evacuation. During the installation of the air conditioner, connections and threads are sealed, otherwise it will not work to remove air from the unit. A vacuum pump is used to pump out air for 20-40 minutes.

vacuuming

After the installation of the air conditioner is completed, the refrigerant in the cylinder is supplied to the system. A small adapter is attached to it, and then a pressure gauge. The filling of the air conditioning tank is independently carried out taking into account and correcting for pressure. Upon completion of the process, the disconnector is activated and the system enters the test mode.

note! The uniform circulation of cold air indicates that everything is done correctly. The air conditioning unit can be used for its intended purpose.

Results

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself. This work is quite feasible. Naturally, this is not a simple and easy task. The key recommendation is to strictly follow the instructions and if any defects occur, they must be eliminated in a timely manner. In this case, the air conditioner will work effectively for a long time. Be sure to watch the video on installing the air conditioner from A to Z.

Climate technology and, in particular, split systems, which are habitually called air conditioners, help to survive the summer heat and stuffiness. The equipment is not cheap, but the worst thing is that for its installation it is required to pay an amount slightly less than for the equipment. Because many think about self-assembly. Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is possible, but there are many little things and features, ignorance of which leads to rapid wear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instruction will help you get things right.

Location selection

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a place for both. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how cold air will spread in a house or apartment, as well as take into account technical requirements.

Let's start with the technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:

• from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers, at least 20-30 cm);
• to the wall on the side - at least 30 cm;
• to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.

The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on open balcony, if he is. On a glazed balcony / loggia, installation on a fence (if it has sufficient bearing capacity) or next to a wall is possible. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, they try to put the outdoor unit above the window level - away from passers-by. On higher floors, it can be placed under a window or on the side.

If the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is planned in a private house, a place is usually chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. If there is a ventilated facade, you can use a special mount or hang the unit on the plinth, if any.

When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is normalized. Specific figures manufacturer dependent. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m ( different models Daikin) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). For some manufacturers, the minimum length is not regulated, that is, it can be any. In this case, you can install the blocks "back to back". Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.

Slightly easier is the situation with the maximum distance between two blocks. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refueling of the system with freon will be required, and these are additional costs, and considerable ones. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.

What you need for self-assembly

You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, because the work is only 3 hours, they answer that very expensive equipment and its depreciation makes up a significant share of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many crews do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, but a bad one is of no use.

Equipment

So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands, you will need the following equipment:

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to take it and on tracks up to 6 meters they do without it.

materials

To connect and install two blocks of split systems, you will need the following consumables:

This is all that is needed to install the air conditioner with your own hands.

Installation procedure and features of the work

There is nothing super complicated in self-installation of a split system, but there are a lot of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, you should carefully read the installation and operating instructions that come with the equipment. You compensate for the time spent by knowing exactly what and how to do with your air conditioner, because there are some nuances.

Start - mount the blocks

Before starting all work, it is worth looking at the intended installation site concealed wiring or heating pipes. Getting into them at work is very sad. Next comes the actual installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. You need to start with the installation of the indoor unit. On the selected place we place a plate for its fastening. The block must hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviation. Therefore, we carefully approach the marking and fastening.

We apply the plate, set it according to the level, mark the places for fasteners. We drill holes, insert plastic plugs under the dowels, hang the plate and fix it with dowels. Attach with particular care lower part plates - here are the latches that hold the block, so they must be firmly fixed. No loopholes. Then check the horizontal position again.

Having estimated where the track will be located (it should go at an inclination of at least 1 cm per meter - for normal drainage installation), we begin to drill a hole in the outer wall. We also drill the hole with a slope - again, so that the condensate normally leaves (the angle can be greater than that of the route).

The minimum hole diameter is 5 cm. If there is no drill of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, bring out not a common bundle of communications, but each tube / cable separately. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for the copper and electrical cable, the second for the drain tube. It must be laid below the rest - so that it does not numb on communications in an emergency.

If two units are mounted back to back, the hole must be strictly aligned (measure on your own unit where the connection ports are)

Then install the brackets for the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a high-rise building, you will need climbing equipment and skills to work at height. This block must also hang strictly horizontally, so we also use the level when marking the holes. When mounting the brackets, we install fasteners in each hole, no matter how many there are - this is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners - anchors 10 * 100 mm. More is possible, less is highly undesirable.

After the brackets are fixed, expose the outdoor unit. We also fix the block in all the fasteners that are. This is the only way to ensure that it stays in place under any conditions.

Laying communications

Two blocks are connected by an electric wire, two copper tubes. Also, a drainage tube is brought out through the wall. All these communications must be properly selected, connected, laid and fixed.

Copper tubes

We start with copper pipes. One larger diameter, the other smaller. Dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. We cut off a piece of the required length with a pipe cutter, process the edges from burrs with a special tool, straightening and leveling the cut. It is undesirable to use a conventional saw, as well as a file to remove a burr - there will definitely be sawdust inside the pipe, which will enter the system and quickly destroy the compressor.

Heat-insulating tubes are put on the prepared pipes. Moreover, the thermal insulation must be continuous and pass inside the wall as well. The joints of the pieces of thermal insulation must be glued with metallized tape, achieving a very tight fit of the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensation will form on the non-insulated sections of the pipes, and it can drain inside the wall, causing frozen drips, destroying the wall.

Copper pipes wrapped in thermal insulation must be passed through a hole in the wall. Before that, it is imperative that the edge that will be inserted into the wall be carefully sealed so that dust does not get inside the pipe (or it is better to plug both ends securely immediately after cutting and leave the plugs before starting the connection). This is very important point as the dust will quickly damage the compressor.

Cable and drainage

The situation is simpler with an electric cable. Each wire is terminated with special lugs, installed on conductors that have been stripped of insulation and crimped with tongs. The prepared cable is connected according to the diagram, which is in the instructions.

On the indoor and outdoor units, above the ports for connecting copper pipes, there is a removable plate, under which there are connectors for connecting the cable. Before you start installing the split system yourself, remove the plates, consider what and where you need to connect - it will be easier to work later. Especially with an outdoor unit.

Connecting the drain pipe is generally simple: it is connected to the appropriate outlet on the indoor unit and led out through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it ends at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. Laying the drainage pipe should be done with a slope towards the exit to the street. Slope not less than 1 cm per meter long. More is possible, less is not.

The tube must be fixed every meter so that sagging does not occur in it. Condensation then accumulates in them, which may end up on your floor or on furniture. When you pass the tube through a hole in the wall, it is also better to muffle it with something.

Indoors, pipes and cables are usually wrapped with metallized tape into a single bundle. Then they are fixed to the wall in several places, a plastic box is attached on top. Usually it is taken in white or a color suitable for finishing.

If you wish, you can hide all the tubes in the wall - gouge the track in the wall, lay it there and, after checking the performance, wall it up. But this is a rather risky option, since in order to repair something you will need to disassemble the wall.

Connecting blocks

Here, in general, there are no special secrets. The communications stretched through the hole in the wall are connected to the appropriate connectors. There are no problems with connecting the cable - connect the wires of the same color to the terminals that are already connected to them. In this case, you can't really go wrong.

If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop to catch the oil (we lay copper pipes in this way) dissolved in freon. If the drop is lower, we do not make any loops.

Drainage

There are two ways to divert drainage from the split system - into the sewer or just outside, out the window. The second method is more common with us, although it is not very correct.

Connecting the drain tube is also easy. A corrugated hose is easily pulled onto the outlet of the drainage system of the indoor unit (a tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit). To keep it secure, you can tighten the connection with a clamp.

The same is the case with the drainage from the outdoor unit. Exit it at the bottom. Often they leave everything as it is, and the water just drips down, but it's probably better to put on a drainage hose too and take moisture away from the walls.

Outdoor Unit Drainage

If not a hose is used, but a polymer pipe, it will be necessary to select an adapter that will allow you to connect the outlet of the air conditioner and the tube. You will have to watch on the spot, because situations are different.

When laying a drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns and certainly not to allow sagging - condensate will accumulate in these places, which is not good at all. As has been said more than once, the tube is laid out with a slope. Optimal - 3 mm per 1 meter, minimum - 1 mm per meter. Throughout it is fixed to the wall, at least every meter.

Freon circulation system

It is somewhat more difficult with connecting copper pipes. They are carefully laid out along the walls, avoiding kinks and creases. For bending, it is better to use a pipe bender, but you can get by with a spring one. In this case, sharp turns should also be avoided, but in order not to bend the tubes.

The ports on the outdoor unit look like this. Same on the inside.

From the beginning, we connect the tubes in the indoor unit. On it, we twist the nuts from the ports. As the nuts loosen, a hiss is heard. It's nitrogen coming out. This is normal - nitrogen is pumped in at the factory so that the insides do not oxidize. When the hissing stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, put it on the tube, and then start rolling.

rolling

First, remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burrs. If the section is not round during cutting, use a calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in the forehead store. It is inserted into the pipe, scrolled, aligning the section.

The edges of the tubes are carefully aligned for 5 cm, after which the edges are flared so that they can be connected to the inlet / outlet of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correct execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system must be airtight. Then refueling the air conditioner will not be needed soon.

When flaring, hold the pipe with the hole down. Again, so that copper particles do not get inside, but spill out onto the floor. In the holder, it is clamped so that it sticks out 2 mm outward. That's right, no more, no less. We clamp the tube, put the flaring cone, twist it, applying solid efforts (the tube is thick-walled). The flaring is finished when the cone goes no further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with the other tube.

If you have not rolled pipes before, it is better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge should be smooth, with a clear continuous border.

Port connection

We connect the flared edge of the pipe to the corresponding outlet, tighten the nut. No additional gaskets, sealants and the like should be used (forbidden). For this, they take special tubes made of high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional funds.

You need to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case, the copper will flatten out, squeeze the fitting, the connection will become almost monolithic and precisely sealed.

The same operation is repeated with all four outputs.

Vacuuming - why and how to do it

The last stage, which ends with the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, is the removal of air and moisture, argon residues from the system. During installation, humid air from the room or from the street fills the copper pipes. If it is not removed, it will enter the system. As a result, the compressor will work with a greater load, it will heat up more.

The presence of moisture also adversely affects the performance of the system. The fact is that freon, which is filled with air conditioners, contains a certain amount of oil to lubricate the elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but saturated with water, it lubricates the insides less effectively, and this leads to their premature wear.

From all this it follows that the system will work without air removal, but not for very long and with possible shutdown due to overheating (if there is such an automation).

There are two ways to remove air from the system: using a vacuum pump or some amount of freon released from the outdoor unit (it is charged at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).

The "puff" method

On the ports of the external unit, unscrew the valve plugs (in the photo they are indicated by arrows).

We will carry out operations with the lower port (larger diameter), which sticks out perpendicular to the body. Under the cover there is a socket for a hexagon, we select a key that is suitable in size.

Under the cover is a valve with a hexagon socket

Next, with this key, turn the valve 90 ° for one second, return it to its previous position. We let some freon into the system, it created overpressure. We press a finger on the spool, which is located on the same port. By this we release a mixture of freon and gases located there. Press for literally seconds. Part of the mixture should remain so as not to start a new portion of air inside.

You can repeat 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can turn the valve located above. With a track of 2-3 meters - you can 3 times, with a length of 4 meters - only two. Freon is not enough for more.

When the air is practically removed, we screw the plug onto the outlet with the spool (filling), open the control valves (under the hexagon) completely, launching the freon into the system. We coat all joints with soapy foam to make sure that they are airtight. You can run.

Vacuum pump

This operation requires a vacuum pump, tube high pressure, a group of two manometers - high and low pressure.

Without opening the valves on the control valves, we connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool, turn on the equipment. It should work 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, vapors, nitrogen residues are drawn out.

Then the pump is turned off, the pump valve is closed but not disconnected and left for another 15-20 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of manometers. If the system is tight, there is no change in pressure, the pressure gauge needles froze in place. If the arrows change their position, there is a leak somewhere and it needs to be fixed. You can find it with soap suds and tighten the connection (usually the problem is at the point where the copper pipes are connected to the outlets of the blocks).

If everything is fine, without disconnecting the pump hose, fully open the valve, which is located below. Some sounds are heard inside the system - freon fills the system. Now, with gloves, quickly twist the hose of the vacuum pump - a certain amount of ice freon can escape from the valve, and you don’t need frostbite. Now we completely unscrew the valve at the top (where a thinner tube is connected).

Why in that order? Because when filling with freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly closes the filling port when the pump is disconnected. That's all, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed, you can turn it on.

In fairness, it must be said that such an operation - vacuuming - is carried out only in Russia and neighboring countries. In the same Israel where air conditioners work all year round, do nothing of the sort. Why is a matter for thought.

Installing an air conditioner is a very complex task that requires certain knowledge and sometimes special tools. In our article today, we will talk about how to install air conditioning at home yourself. There are various types of air conditioning systems, which include mobile and window models, as well as the so-called split systems. As part of our article, we will dwell in more detail on the sequence of actions when installing the last variety.

The process of installing a split system is quite complicated and is carried out in several steps. In this regard, all actions can be divided into three main stages, which include the following:

1. Works on the installation of the indoor unit;
2. Actions related to the installation of the outdoor unit;
3. Vacuuming.

Each of the stages will be considered by us in detail.

Step one: install the indoor unit

If you decide to install a mobile air conditioner at home, then you don’t have to worry about the installation process, you just need to put it in the right place. But with a split system you will have to work hard, since it consists of two blocks, each of which needs a separate installation. If we talk about the indoor unit, then a number of requirements are imposed on its installation. So, for example, it should be at some distance from the ceiling, which should not be less than ten centimeters.

The importance of the above requirement should be understood, since if it is ignored, the following consequences may occur:

• his body will quickly become clogged with dust, and it will have to be cleaned almost every day;
• dust will also settle on the surface of the ceiling. As a result, not the most beautiful dust spot will be obtained;
• the system will not have enough air, and this will subsequently affect its efficiency.

Such an indentation from the wall is required so that it becomes possible to ensure a distance between the curtains and the device of at least ten centimeters. In conditions of a shorter distance, curtains or curtains will constantly flutter, which is also undesirable. Next, install the mounting plate, while it is necessary to adhere to the level. Previously, you should also equip the markup, which is performed using dowels and a puncher.

Further self-installation air conditioning involves making a through hole in the wall, which is required in order to lay a line and a drainage system there. For this purpose, it is required to take a drill, the diameter of which is forty-five millimeters, after which you can start making a hole. This tunnel should be designed in such a way that the slight slope required for condensate to flow through it is provided. Further actions will be related to the collection and connection of the route. First you need to measure the required length of the pipe and cut them. This will require the use of a pipe cutter. But it is better not to use a hacksaw for metal, since chips that have got inside will lead to compressor failure.

Next comes the connection of pipes - rolling is used. The quality of the connection that holds the refrigerant also depends on how well this operation is performed. Even before rolling, it is required to put the nut on the tube. This requirement is explained by the impossibility of such an action in the future. It is also important to tighten the nuts to the indoor unit as tightly as possible, this only improves the quality of the connection.

Connected pipes, electrical wiring, as well as the drainage system must be insulated and wrapped with tape. Next, the free trunk ends must be inserted into a previously made hole in the wall. As for the indoor unit itself, it is installed on a bar. At this stage, the installation stages of the air conditioner associated with its indoor unit can be considered completed. Now we move on to the next steps to install the outdoor unit.

Step two: install the outdoor unit

Solving the issue related to the competent installation of the air conditioning system, or rather its external unit, is associated with some risk. This is relevant in the case of high-altitude work. In such cases, insurance is mandatory.

As part of this stage, the first step is to install the brackets. The outdoor unit is in most cases mounted under the window. This decision about its location is explained by the fact that in this way it becomes possible to provide convenient maintenance and repair.

As for the location of the brackets, it is calculated in such a way that the external unit of the air conditioning system would be located below the level of the window sill.

After finishing the marking work, you can proceed to the stage of attaching the brackets to the wall. Due to the fact that the outdoor unit is characterized by a rather significant weight, the brackets must be fixed with maximum reliability. For this, long self-tapping screws are used, the diameter of which should not be less than twelve millimeters. After the installation of the brackets is completed, the unit itself should be lowered onto them directly. It is advisable to mount the block in tandem with an assistant, because due to the considerable mass there is a threat to drop the block.

Further, after installing the unit on the brackets, you will need to securely fasten it. But this must be done by securing all four screws. When these steps are completed, it will be possible to connect trunk elements to it. In this case, it is necessary to carry out all actions very carefully, since it is important not to confuse which of the tubes should be connected to where. In addition, even in the process of connecting them to the indoor unit, it is recommended to make appropriate marks. In all other respects, other actions are carried out similarly to the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.

Stage Three: Vacuuming

When deciding to install an air conditioner at home with your own hands, remember that vacuuming is mandatory. Such a process is a set of actions aimed at creating a vacuum in the tubes of the main line. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure the operation of the air conditioner. Vacuuming is performed to remove dust and moisture from the pipes. This is done with a special pump connected to the system using a manometric manifold and flexible hoses.

The pump is then turned on and outdoor unit open a port. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port and turn off the pump. These steps will take no more than fifteen minutes to complete. It may take longer to carry out this operation, but this is not necessary. Do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position. So, for example, when it is raised, we can talk about the lack of tightness of the system. Therefore, check all connections in general and rolling in particular.

You can start the refrigerant only after making sure that everything is tight, and it does not matter where you decide to install the air conditioner. At the same time, it is better to leave the pressure gauges in their places. The first step is to open the tube responsible for the supply, then the suction tube, after which you can start fixing the freon pressure. It is also important not to confuse the above sequence of actions.

Next, the first launch of the system is performed, which will not happen immediately, you will have to wait for some time. Then you need to let it work for about fifteen minutes. This time is allotted for the complete distribution of freon through the tubes. Then control measurements of pressure are carried out, and the pump equipped with a pressure gauge is turned off. On this work on the installation of a split system can be considered completed.

Installation of a window air conditioner

In cases where you want to install a window air conditioner at home, the steps are somewhat different, since its design is significantly different from a split system. To do this, you will need to remove its front panel and remove the block located on the skid. After that, the housing should be installed with a slight slope towards the street. Then it is assembled in the reverse order and connected to the outlet, adjusting the required power.