How to make a wooden tub from what kind of wood. Oak barrels. Dimensions and volume of barrels

For the construction of a bath room, you can choose traditional version- cut down a small one or build a steam room frame technology. A bathhouse looks much more attractive and original - a barrel made with your own hands from specially prepared boards. Since many homeowners are interested in the method of assembling a house adjoining structure, we suggest considering the manufacturing procedure in this article.

Choice of design and dimensions

The building is similar to a barrel, not only externally, but also constructively. The building consists of the following elements:

end walls round shape, knocked together from tightly fitted boards - analogues of the bottom and lid of the barrel;
side walls assembled from longitudinally laid thick boards with special recesses (following the example of a log house);
external ties of steel strip or cable, reminiscent of barrel iron hoops;
stands for horizontal installation assembled body on the ground;
elements of internal arrangement - oven, shelves, partitions with doors (if necessary).

Steam room, washing room and dressing room in the form of a classic round barrel

Reference. There are more complex structures, made in the form of a rectangle with rounded corners or an oval, shown below in the photo.

First of all, it is necessary to decide on the design and layout of the bath rooms - the future dimensions and basis of the structure depend on this. Please note important point: the side walls are recruited from solid boards made specifically for the bath, so the length of the structure directly depends on the length of the lumber.

Construction and interior layout barrels are designed depending on the type of bath chosen and other wishes of the homeowner as follows:

A beginner who decides to independently build a bath in the form of a barrel is not recommended to start with large structures equipped with several internal partitions. Make a one-room sauna 2 m long - if desired, it can be loaded onto a trailer passenger car and take to a place of rest near the reservoir.

Lumber harvesting

Bars and boards for a bath, made in the form of a barrel, must be sawn from hardwood - aspen, linden, and so on. Of conifers, it is allowed to use cedar and larch, which are resistant to temperature extremes and moisture. Pine and spruce, when heated strongly, release resin, whose drops can burn people in the steam room.

Advice. If the choice of wood is limited only conifers, on the lining of the upper part of the body, select boards without knots, which are sources of tarry secretions.

To make a bath-type "barrel", purchase the following timber:

timber with a minimum section of 10 x 10 cm for stands;
a board 45-50 mm thick and 10 cm wide is used to assemble end and side walls;
a wooden door 0.7 x 1.8 m with a box (you can buy a ready-made one or make it yourself from a 50 x 50 mm timber and 2.5 cm thick boards);
lumber for the manufacture of shelves and a lattice pallet.

The number of boards on the end walls of the barrel is calculated as follows: the area of the circle is determined, the resulting value is divided by the width of the product and multiplied by a safety factor of 1.2. Do not forget to add the bars - power jumpers that connect the boards to each other in the process of panel assembly.

The timber of the side sheathing is calculated by the circumference divided by the width of the board. Use a safety factor as the wood must go through tongue and groove trimming on the woodworking machine.

Note. On sale it is not difficult to find ready-made kits for assembling baths - barrels of various sizes and layouts. But often the quality of these products does not match their cost.

What else is needed in the process of building a round bath:

metal ties - steel cables or strips;
fasteners - galvanized screws and nails;
compositions for outdoor and internal processing wood - antiseptics, varnishes;
materials for the manufacture of the roof - shingles, plywood, beams and roofing(common options are shingles or corrugated board);
bath stove of appropriate power, calculated according to the volume of the steam room;
chimney pipes - sandwich;
special lamps and switches for saunas, non-flammable cables.

If you intend to use the barrel year-round, it is worth making external insulation. Suitable thermal insulation material- mineral wool, polymers are not recommended.

Wood processing

Since the walls of the bathhouse are joined in a special way - according to the type log cabins, all boards need machining cutters on the machine, it is unrealistic to manually cut out semicircular grooves. The developer needs to contact the woodworking workshop and provide sketches with the parameters of the blanks. The exact dimensions of the ridges, grooves and profile of the cutter are indicated in the drawing.

To facilitate further construction works, past the trimming of the workpiece, process in advance according to the instructions:

Advice. The surfaces of the blanks that go outside and inside the barrel, cover with different protective compounds. Apply from the inside special agent for baths and steam rooms.

After painting, stack the boards to dry in a stack, laying thin strips between the tiers. How to lead preparatory work, look at the video:

End wall production

As mentioned above, a barrel - a bath is made by hand from two (at least) round edge elements connected by profiled sheathing boards. Therefore, construction begins with the assembly of the ends of the barrel using panel technology.

Lay 2 support beams on a flat area and begin to assemble the back blank wall in the following sequence:

Advice. It is not necessary to tie the blanks into a shield with two long jumpers. Put 4 crossbars shorter and closer to the edge - the product will look more aesthetically pleasing.

When assembling, the groove of each subsequent beam is put on the crest of the previous one, as builders do log houses. This method joint prevents precipitation from entering the joint. Adjust the boards tightly, if necessary, use clamps and wedging.

The front wall is made in a similar way, only the base is door frame. Twist it with self-tapping screws from the bars, after fixing it on the supports with clamps and aligning the diagonals with a tape measure. To draw a circle, nail a temporary board to the box, on which the center is located.

After sawing off the excess, sand the ends of both products and install the door. It does not hurt to additionally fix the extreme boards of the wall with long furniture screws screwed into adjacent shield bars. How the round walls of the barrel - baths are made, look at the video:

Sauna Assembly Instructions

The structure needs to be assembled locally - it is quite cumbersome to move. But first you need to make stands - legs located under the extreme walls and partitions. For manufacturing, make the most of the scraps of materials left after assembling the front and back walls. One of the design options is shown in the photo.

Installation of a bath barrel is carried out in the following order:

An important point. A variant of the traditional Russian bathhouse with a sink is installed at a slight slope to the side rear wall. A hole is drilled at the bottom of the floor to drain water.

The finished body of the barrel should be protected from precipitation so that the upper part of the bath gets less wet. Here it is recommended to apply the budget method:

Stuff flexible nails across the body wooden planks with an interval of 0.5-0.6 m.
Pin sheets of thin plywood to the top of the planks.
Cover the improvised base of the roof with shingles.

If it is necessary to make insulation, the shingle is nailed to the body in several layers - the gap between the plywood and the outer surface of the barrel will increase. There you can put mineral wool covered with a diffusion membrane. The procedure for assembling the bath is shown in detail in the next video:

Arrangement works

After installation is complete, go to interior arrangement barrels. In the bath, the following work remains to be done:

Do it in the back end air vent closed with a lid.
Install the oven using metal stand. Protect the wall section behind the stove with fireproof materials - roofing steel or mineralite slabs.
Arrange a chimney from a sandwich pipe by making a hole in the ceiling. How to properly install chimney pipes, read.
Make shelves and a floor drain (lattice tray), attach the elements to the walls.
Lay the wiring, install a bath lamp and a switch.

Under the barrel - a Russian bath, it is advisable to dig a pit in advance to drain water through a hole in the floor. There is another way to drain - connect a flexible pipe to the drain, laid to the storm drain or other place.

Conclusion

If you have decided to independent production baths - barrels, be patient and large quantity free time. The author of the videos presented here spent about 1 month building from scratch. Add time to deal with unexpected delays and inexperience issues. There is a way to reduce construction time - order ready kit masters, and do only the installation yourself.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Ancient and almost forgotten crafts are beginning to revive, sometimes bringing enthusiasts a good income for courage and perseverance. It is to such forgotten crafts that cooperage belongs - the production of barrels, gangs, troughs, tubs - in a word, all the containers that our ancestors once used.

Environmentally friendly, no chemicals and welding are used - generous nature has already prepared everything that is needed for the manufacture of barrels! It is desirable to be engaged in the production of barrels where there is raw material - oak, whose age must be at least a hundred years. Although both aspen and alder can be used to make barrels, oak barrels are still more suitable for aging wines in them, so this is a more profitable business. In addition, in-line production does not require expensive equipment.

Technology for the production of oak barrels + video how they do it

Such products are always in demand in our country. If you are interested in such an activity, then you can first test yourself as a cooper. You can study at the enterprise in three months. During this period, you will be able to master the barrel production technology from start to finish. But it is much more profitable to invite experienced craftsmen, rent premises, purchase equipment, raw materials and launch own production.

One simple tub or tub of alder or aspen is assembled in about half an hour. With barrels, things are more complicated. For the manufacture of barrels, oak is needed, which requires special processing in the old way. The main thing in the production of oak barrels is to follow traditional technology.

After the barrel is pulled together in a semicircle, it goes to the park. The material becomes softer, it is twisted with hoops and fastened. Further, for sealing, the barrel is sent for firing. At this stage, the master will need considerable experience and skills.

Wine oak barrel is directly involved in the maturation of wine. For the manufacture of barrels, only high-quality oak is used. Wine aged in oak barrels becomes more transparent, and acquires an incredibly delicate bouquet of ancient wine. Oak barrel plays an important role in the creation palatability drink. No wonder winemakers say that it is the barrel that makes the wine.

The choice of wood for the production of barrels

Basically, barrels are made from Caucasian alpine hardwood oak, which has high density wood. First comes the selection of straight-layered logs. Then they are cut into blocks along the length of the riveting with a small allowance for trimming.

Making rivets

At the first stage of making staves, oak blocks are split. Then they are split into sectors, from which the rivets themselves will then be cut directly. Riveting blanks are later used to assemble barrels. A rivet that is made in this way is called a radially split rivet, it has more attractive characteristics than a sawn one.

Drying

Ready-made rivets are stored under a canopy on outdoors at least two years. As a result, it is possible to minimize subsequent deformations of the finished product, for example, to prevent distortion, cracking, shrinkage and decay. As a result of this process, processing is greatly facilitated, and riveting is of better quality.

The production of barrels can be both industrial and traditional. Traditional production uses only manual technology manufacturing. Riveting for barrels is made manually or on special equipment, it depends on the purpose and volume of products. Via special equipment you can make a lot of high quality rivets. Such a combination of industrial and traditional technology in the production of barrels allows you to get quality products at a reasonable price.

hydrothermal treatment

The skeletons of barrels from staves are assembled exclusively by hand. And in order for the fibers to become softer, they are preheated and then moistened. Due to this, breaking of rivets during bending is excluded.

For the manufacture of barrels, chipped sawn oak staves are used. To bend the skeleton, a brazier with an open fire is required. On the grill, the wood warms up for 45 minutes. Thus, it turns out to be more fragrant, since under the influence of fire, the caramelization contained in it occurs. And also the internal tension of the wood is removed, and the forms of the rivets are fixed. After that, set the bottom. Next, the surface of the barrels is carefully cycled.

Detailed video how they are made at the cooperage:

To increase the service life and give them a special color, the surface is impregnated with hot beeswax.

The barrel in our time not only has a practical function. Today, for storing liquids or something else, they are used in warehouses, in wine cellars and so on. For decorative purposes, they began to be made relatively recently. With skillful processing, they can be used for decoration. garden plot, as well as in the form of furniture: chairs, tables, bar counters, etc.

Even a well-worn barrel can be restored and used for other purposes. For this, of course, you need a fair amount of imagination. You also need to take into account its condition so that the material is not too dry from time to time, otherwise all efforts will come to naught in the very first time of its operation. There are actually quite a few ideas on how to turn such a container into something more functional or beautiful. For example, in the garden you can break a mini-flower bed on it, and on several levels. Or make an interesting table or bench. You can even organize a fountain in them, only it will not last long if the wood is not properly processed: under the influence of water, it can quickly lose both its aesthetic appearance and strength. Some craftsmen adapt the barrel for a washbasin: for this, a sink is inserted into the upper part, and a pipe is installed inside the barrel.

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands

Before you start making a barrel with your own hands, you need to decide on the material. Usually used for this purpose? do-it-yourself barrel

Before you mount the barrel, you must first make the frets. These are wooden boards that are sawn from a tree trunk. They can also be made by splitting wooden blocks. Sawn, as a rule, are stronger than chipped because it is not always possible to split the log correctly, and because of this, part of the strength may be lost.

It has long been customary to fasten the frets into a single structure using metal hoops which are made of durable sheet steel. To make the barrel even more durable, you can additionally nail them. The number of hoops depends on the height of the barrel, but, as a rule, there are at least three of them.

The last stage is the installation of the bottom. After it is installed on the owl, a hoop is put on for fixing, which is also additionally nailed for greater strength.

How to make a bar at home from an old wooden barrel

In fact, there are a lot of options for barrel minibars. It can be a variant with a front door, and opening from above, and with an open interior space with shelves for storing drinks. Which one is considered the best is hard to say. It all depends on taste preferences.

barrel bar

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a bar from a barrel, it is necessary to clean the old wood. This must be done both inside and out. Before that, you need to remove all hoops, except for the one that holds the bottom. They then put on quite simply, and you can move them down to the desired level with a hammer. Then the edges are aligned on the side of the bottom, on the other side. We leave one part open for now. Next, the hoops are processed special composition so that later the metal does not rust. If you need a front hole, mark the location and cut it out.

For a time when mankind did not have access to simple and reliable plastic packaging. Formed, a whole layer of culture associated with the manufacture of wooden mugs, barrels and other utensils.

There is a great variety of types wooden barrels. Each wooden barrel serves its own purpose, so the craftsmen selected the most convenient sizes and shapes of products. The most successful, the work of artisans, took root among the people, and began an almost unchanging procession from century to century, from generation to generation.

The main types of barrels

The main types of wooden barrels are shown in the figures below.

Gang, was used for rinsing in baths and small household needs, in the midst of fun they drank mead from them.

Zaparnik, a very convenient invention. Used, of course, in the Russian bath. Boiling water was poured into it and brooms were placed, all this was covered with a lid on top and handles from brooms were in the slots.

conical barrel, used to store various supplies in cellars, in winter period of the year.

classic barrel, has found its application all over the world, its design is extremely durable and successful. this barrel is suitable for any products of pickled wine, in general an extremely useful invention.

Fonts, were a favorite place for baptism in churches, and were also used for rinsing in cold water after bath. The remains of huge fonts are found at the excavations. For example, in Greece, a font was discovered that could accommodate seven people.

Barrels for salting, and fermentation differed in a conical shape and a lid with grooves. A large stone was laid on the lid as oppression. And when the weight of the stone was not enough, wedges were driven into the slot, which created even more tension.

Perhaps the last of the barrels is used to this day - this .

Most of all, do-it-yourself spherical barrels were used before, as they resist well external forces, pushes and blows; the hoops of these barrels firmly tighten the frame, successfully resist the pressure exerted by the contents of the barrel, and easily roll over.

Cylindrical barrels are easy to manufacture, but they are inferior in quality to convex barrels, since with a slight shrinkage the hoops cannot be tightened. They are used to store dry or thick and viscous products; they are no longer suitable for wine.

Tapered barrels are also easy to make with your own hands. Their upper and lower bottoms various sizes. These barrels were mainly used as household utensils open type.

The barrel consists of a skeleton assembled from the klepchins of the sidebar; bottoms collected from klepchins of sweet clover; hoops (iron or wooden) fastening the skeleton. The design of a spherical barrel is considered strong if the following ratios are observed in the dimensions of height and diameter.

The height is greater than the diameter in the middle by 20-25%; the diameter in the middle is 15% larger than the end diameter.

The most durable is considered a barrel, the skeleton of which was assembled from klepchins of the same width and fastened with iron hoops.

Stages of making wooden barrels

The manufacturing technology of wooden barrels consists of the following operations: riveting processing, assembling the skeleton, manufacturing and inserting bottoms, stuffing permanent hoops.

The riveting harvested in the forest is a rather roughly processed plank (riveting) rectangular shape with allowances for thickness and width for processing and shrinkage.

To obtain klepchins, a sidewall of the required length, they are trimmed, and to give the appropriate shape they are cut off, making one side slightly concave, the other slightly convex, then planed clean. The processing of the sidewall riveting ends with jointing of the side edges at a certain angle to the inner surface of the riveting.

The skeleton of the barrel is assembled as follows. Klepchins have one end inside the temporary hoop. The other end of the klepchins is pulled together by means of a gate (Figure 3) and fixed with a second temporary hoop.

After that, the skeleton is closed up: the ends are cut off, chamfered from them, the skeleton is cleaned inside along the line of the chimes, and the chimes are cut.

Klepchins of sweet clover are pre-cut and planed clean, then sewn into square shields using rhombic iron plates as in the figure below (position 1). The shields are planed, then circles are marked on their surface with a compass in accordance with the diameters of the bottoms and the bottom is cut out. A chamfer is removed along the circumference of the bottom, with which it is inserted into the chime of the core (position 3). When inserting the bottom, a temporary hoop is removed from the end of the core, and the second is lifted. At the same time, the screed of the core weakens, the klepchins diverge somewhat, and the bottom chamfers into the chime of the core.

After inserting the bottom, temporary hoops are replaced with permanent ones. Iron hoops (position 2) are stuffed 6-9 each, wooden hoops 14-16 pieces per barrel, placing them in nests of 7-8 pieces. Often they make barrels with different hoops - iron and wooden. In this case, iron hoops are placed in chimes, wooden hoops in the neck and convex part.

Determining the capacity of a barrel

Manufacturing technology of wooden barrels.

The capacity of the barrel is calculated using the following formula:

V - barrel capacity in m3;
D - larger diameter in m;
d is the smaller diameter in m;
h is the internal height of the barrel in m;
π - constant number 3.14

You can also determine the capacity of the barrel by filling it with water from a measuring vessel.

What can be compared, for example, with a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub. And in a linden barrel, honey, apple juice are perfectly stored, you can cook kvass in it. Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree even today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. Just do not find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can make such a barrel yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur master is quite capable of coping with it.

Step 1. Choosing wood

Before creating a barrel with your own hands, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are unsuitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, and smells of resin in a pine barrel. Here we need linden, aspen, plane tree. Poplar, willow, alder will also come down. But for salting, pickling or urinating better than oak there is nothing - such a barrel will serve for more than a decade. For other needs, you can use blackberry, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.

Usually goes to rivets Bottom part trunks of old trees, it is called “riveter”. But a lover of tinkering will choose blanks from ordinary firewood, and adapt a thin trunk to the job. It is best to make riveting from raw wood.

Step 2. Chock split

First, the chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again pricked into two parts, and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock (Fig. 1), in order to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (15 cm for sweet clover) and 2.5-3 cm thick. It is only necessary to try so that the split goes radially - this will save the riveting in the future from cracking.

Step 3. Drying the workpiece and processing

The chopped blanks are dried in a room with natural ventilation at least a month. You can use a dryer to speed up the process. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a planer. First, the outer surface of the riveting is planed. At the same time, to check the curvature of the surface, a template should be prepared in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of a thin plank along the already finished product. Next planing side surfaces, also checking their curvature against the template.

Riveting can be kadushechnaya - in which one end is wider than the other, and barrel riveting - with an extension in the middle. The size of these extensions determines the taper of the tub and the convexity of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the ratio between the widest and narrowest part of the riveting is 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).

The processing of the side surface is completed with a jointer. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece along the jointer (Fig. 4).

Step 4. Processing the riveting from the inside

At the next stage, we process the inner (in relation to the finished barrel) surface of the riveting, cutting off excess wood with a planer or even an ax (Fig. 5). After that, the tubular riveting can be considered finished, and for the barrel riveting, the middle still needs to be thinned to 12-15 mm (Fig. 6). Let it not bother you that rivets can have different widths - we take everything possible from each workpiece.

Step 5: Making Hoops

Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so strong, and a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. Hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm is used for hoops.

Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop was stretched, we add to this size the double width of the strip. With hammer blows, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and put rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be flared with blows of the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).

According to the location on the product, the hoops are distinguished into farts - the central hoop on the barrel, the morning - extreme and cervical - intermediate.

Step 6. Assembly of the product

To one jack-of-all-trades, the grandmother brought a crumbling tub with a request to collect it. Tom had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. He came up with the following: he threw a rope on the floor and laid out one to the other rivets on it. Then he crushed them with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope together. Gradually removing the pillows, he brought the extreme rivets together and secured them with a hoop.

Coopers make it easier.

The product is assembled for any flat surface. First, two rivets are attached to the hoop opposite each other with special brackets bent from hooped iron (Fig. 9). Then, attaching rivets to one of them, we get to the other, which will tighten the assembled half of the barrel. Continue assembly until the rivets fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.

Lightly tapping the hoop with a hammer, we upset it and check whether the edges of the riveting are tightly aligned. To achieve contact of the rivets over the entire side surface, you need to add a rivet or pull out an extra one and after that put a permanent hoop. By the way, if changing the number of staves does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the staves or replace the narrow one with a wider one.

Having trimmed the ends of the skeleton with light blows of the hammer, we put on the middle hoop and push it all the way with the help of a hammer (Fig. 10).

Step 7. Trimming the skeleton and the final screed

Having exposed the skeleton on a flat surface, we describe with a pencil using a bar (Fig. 11) the cut line. Having planted the morning hoop, we cut the skeleton 2-3 mm from it and clean the ends of the rivets with a planer. We do the same with the other end of the skeleton.

In the manufacture of a barrel, after fitting an onion, neck and morning hoop on one side, the other side must first be pulled off. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. Home master may use rope, rope, chain or wire for the same purpose. You can tie a loop and twist it with a gag or pull the ends of the cable with a lever (Fig. 12).

There is no need to do any steaming or boiling of the skeleton, as some experts recommend, before tightening. Occasionally, however, it happens that the riveting does not bend along the entire length, but in one place and therefore gives a crack. However, in such cases, the cooper will prefer to simply make a new riveting.

Step 8. Stripping the skeleton from the inside

The assembled skeleton is cleaned from the inside with a plow or sherhebel, and the ends of the skeleton with a planer - a humpback (Fig. 13).
Now in the core you need to make a morning groove (Fig. 14). The cutter of the tool can be made from hooped iron, and even better, from a saw blade. The depth and width of the groove must be 3 mm (Fig. 15).

Step 9. Making the bottom shield

At first from sweet clover with a planed outer side and jointed side surfaces is assembled bottom shield(Fig. 16). The sweet clover is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which nests are pre-drilled 15-20 mm deep. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side regular hexagon, inscribed in the circle of the morning groove on the skeleton of the barrel. However, you need to cut the bottom with a margin, deviating from the intended circle by 1 - 1.5 mm. After cleaning with a sherhebel, chamfers are cut from the edge of the bottom (Fig. 17) so that the thickness of the wood is 3 mm three millimeters from the edge - this is necessary for the tight connection of the bottom with the frame in the morning groove (Fig. 18).

Step 10 Trying on the Bottom Shield

We make the first fitting - loosening the hoop, insert the bottom, inserting one side of it into the groove, and then with light blows of the hammer and the rest. If the bottom is tight, you still need to loosen the hoop, and if it is too loose, tighten it.

After stuffing the hoop, make sure there are no gaps. The perfect result the first time is rarely achieved. Even if the cracks are not visible to the eye, they can be found by pouring a little water into the barrel. If it flows between the rivets, then the bottom is too big and you need to trim it slightly. Worse, if water flows through the bottom or through the morning groove. Then you have to disassemble the skeleton and narrow one of the rivets.

Step 11 Installing the Second Bottom

Before installing the second bottom, a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm should be drilled in it. The cork is made as shown in Fig. 19, its height should not be less than the thickness of the bottom, however, the cork should not protrude beyond the cut plane of the core.

Step 12: Painting

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember what to paint jellied containers oil paint should not be: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the decay of wood. It is desirable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, a barrel, a flower tub can be treated with mordants.

The brown color of the oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. A black solution of iron sulphate or an infusion for 5-6 days of iron filings in vinegar.

A decoction of the rhizomes of the fragrant woodruff (Asperula odo-rata) turns linden and aspen red. Red-brown color gives a decoction of onion skins, brown - a decoction of fruit walnut. These dyes are brighter than chemical ones and more stable.

It must be remembered that wood is better preserved with a constant humidity regime. Therefore, dry products must always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both of them cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to substitute a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of the rot by cutting the chimes.

But no matter how long the barrel serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of difficulties overcome in comprehending the secrets of the ancient craft of the cooper.