How do a tree barrels make. Wooden barrel: making it yourself. Manufacturing of metal hoops for row

It is a product that is intended for storage and transporting products. They are insulated and soaked apples, mushrooms, tomatoes. Quasus cabbage and plant watermelons and cucumbers. There are several varieties of barrels. Despite the fact that they differ in the form, their target destination is the same.

• Cloud - ordinary barrel of the usual shape.
• Cuber - bulls of cone-shaped form.
• Support - elongated barrels.

For the first time, the barrels appeared in Russia in the tenth century. They were made by Bondari. Interestingly, the technology of creating barrels has practically not changed over the past centuries. Despite the seeming simplicity, the manufacture is a rather complicated and time consuming process. Soldering barrels are available in a free sale, so most people acquire these products when they have a need. But you can make a barrel yourself. It will take a long time, but will save money. In addition, making a barrel personally, you can be 100% confident in the quality and environmental safety of materials. How to make a barrel yourself, you will learn from this article.

Production of barrels with their own hands: Choosing materials

In the heart of any barrel lies wood. Therefore, the durability of the product will depend on the quality of the selected material. In addition, various trees breed have their own unique qualities that can be both useful and negative. Best for the manufacture of barrels are suitable linden and oak.

Oak barrels serve to preserve the taste of the soles and for their conservation. Thanks to the tanning substances that are contained in this tree, the products in the barrel are preserved longer and saturated with the useful substances. The most common oak breeds used in the Bondar craft is Russian, Ukrainian and Slavic.

Lipa, unlike oak, does not have any impact on stored products. The lime wood is absolutely neutral. But this has its advantages. Products contained in lime barrels, retain freshness and your natural taste. In addition, Lipa is a natural antiseptic, which provides longer storage of products. In terms of making wood, too, more comfortable oak. It has a softer structure, and, as a result, it is better to be processed.

The most unsuitable tree for the manufacture of barrels is the aspen. This tree gives products an unpleasant taste that occurs as a result of storage. The fact is that the Osin allocates resin, and for a long time. For the same reasons, it is not recommended to produce bulls made of coniferous wood. In order for pine barrels, spruce and cedar have become suitable for storing products, they must be soaked for a long time. But even after such a procedure, it is impossible to guarantee a positive result. After the choice of material figured out, you can go to the next step.

Creating pads for salting at home: making clap

Before making these products it is necessary to determine the height and diameter of the future barrel. This will make it possible to accurately calculate the required number of clans. Deciding with the size of the product, you can proceed to the manufacture of claps.

For this, a wooden chock is taken to a length of a little more than the future barrel (approximately 2-3 centimeters). Chock is cleaned of the bark and put an end to the firm base. Now it must be divided into parts. You can do this in two ways: split or cut. Experts recommend to split the workpiece. This allows not to destroy the structure of the wood, which, in turn, serves as a guarantee of the durability of the product. Wood, from which you are going to make claps, should be dry. Then products are obtained more reliable, in addition, a dry tree is better processed.

If you want to make a barrel according to all the rules, a tree intended for clans needs to be keen over several months. The process must pass under the conditions of the natural environment. The sun and wind will make wood more durable. So, moving directly to the splitting. On the ends of chocks are made notches. Then they take an ax, dripping his edge into the made notch and with the help of lung tapping on the outer they split the workpiece. Please note that the more the fibers are contained in the wood structure, the more gloss. The recommended thickness should not exceed 20-25 mm.

Then the clans are overshadowed before giving them the necessary form. This aspect directly depends on the form of the future product. It is recommended to make a rectangular shape clocks, and an oval, narrowed to the edges, is more suitable for the barrel. The following important item in the manufacture of barrels is the hoop. Such elements are located at the top, bottom and in the middle of the barrel. It is possible to make them from wood or metal. It is best for these purposes a stainless steel. This is quite durable material, which is practically not subject to corrosion. Steel cut to strips with a thickness of no more than 2 mm. Before proceeding with the assembly, the clans need to disappear. It will make wood softer and militia. What will greatly facilitate work with it. After preparing the material, you can start assembling.

Soldering barrel assembly technology

Cloils are inserted into the closed vertically, the ends are fixed using clamps or other fasteners. To begin with, you can fix three claps, and then to attach everyone else to them. If you have calculated everything correctly, then the blanks will get up like this. Then the middle hoop is stuffed, only then the bottom.

After assembly, the bottom of the barrel is inserted. As a bottom, round blanks are used, chopped or chopped like shields. When they are manufactured, the board is knocked off and fasten with brackets. Paste the bottom in the core as follows. The extreme hoop is weakened, insert the bottom and tighten again. Depending on the design, the barrel can have two bottom, one of which will perform the role of the lid. In this case, the hoop is weakened from the other end of the barrel and the procedure is repeated. After that, the barrel surface is processed by the plane. It is necessary in order to give the product a more presentable look, and also eliminate all irregularities.

The final stage of manufacturing barrels for salting

After the barrel is ready, you need to harden it. There are many ways, but here we will look at the easiest and most effective. This is a firing. Thus, our distant ancestors have handled their products, and, oddly enough, this method remains very relevant today. This option is suitable for those cases if the barrel will serve for storing alcohol. The fragrance fragrance will give wine or moonshine more rich taste and aroma.

This is done as follows. The barrel is put on the side and sawdust is placed inside. Fruit trees are best suited, for example, cherries. The sawmills ignite, and the barrel rolling, it allows you to evenly treat the entire inner surface. Please note that sawdust should smooth, not burn. Breeding open fire inside a wooden product, can lead to fire! In addition, it is impossible to use special fluids for burning fires. They include chemicals that are absorbed into the surface of the tree. If the barrel is designed to store food, then the option with firing is not suitable. In this case, it is best to treat the surface of the tree wax. Thus, wood will share with the products with its healing properties.

After hardening, the barrel should be checked for tightness. To do this, it is filled with water. If the product proceeds, do not be afraid, it is a completely normal phenomenon. The tree will swell and flow will stop. About 1 hour is given to such a check. If, after this time, the barrel will give to flow, it means that clans stood loosely. In this case, it is necessary to find and close the existing gaps. Experienced bondari recommend using for these purposes the stalks of the root. They are inserted into the slots and tamper with a knife.

Preparing a barrel to salmon

As mentioned above, the barrels made from oak are best for storing solutions and marinades. Currently, those hostesses that use products for storage barrels of wood, prefer the oak. This breed of wood allows you to protect the marinades from mold. In addition, the Duba contains a tannin. Due to this substance, salted cucumbers or tomatoes for a long time remain crispy and juicy.

Immediately before use, the barrel is recommended to be processed. This is a very important procedure that will depend on the quality of the soles and other billets. Only accurate adherence to all tips and recommendations will allow you to please your relative and friends with delicious and juicy home preservation products.

Regardless of whether you made a barrel themselves or purchased the finished product, the package must be thoroughly rinsed. Thus, you get rid of sawdust, which remained after the manufacturer of the barrel. In addition, in new products, the concentration of tanning substances is quite high. And if you put food in such a barrel, they may have an unpleasant taste. In addition, the characteristic oak smell will interrupt the natural taste and aroma of products. Washing containers must be continued until the water is clean, and the smell will not disappear.

After that, the barrel is usually soaked. Time for this procedure may vary from several days to 1 month. Water in a barrel is recommended to change every two days. Some after soaking are carried out additional ferry treatment. For this, the barrel is filled with half water, with soda breeding in it. Then steam is served through the hose.

Before placing products in a barrel, the container must be made from the inside with steep boiling water. It will not give wood to absorb the smell of stored products. Thus, the possibility of multipurpose use of the barrel appears. And you can not be afraid that the salty cucumbers will have the smell of last year's cabbage. If the products are laid for a long shelf life, it is recommended to make a fumigation of gray. It will kill all the microbes and serve as a guarantee of long-term storage of packers.

When you first use barrels you need to use more salt when salting. This is due to the fact that the part will absorb the tree. Optimal storage conditions are maintained in cool rooms. The cellar or basement is suitable for these purposes. But storage temperature should not be lower than zero! Minus temperatures are suitable only for meat, cranberries and cabbage.

It is not recommended to put a barrel on the ground. It can provoke the formation of mold. Therefore, the best land under the barrel to sprinkle with sawdust. They will absorb moisture. And the container itself is placed on a special stand. After each use, the barrel must be thoroughly rinsed with water and disappear. It is then recommended to dry the container, while avoiding direct sunlight. Drying barrels using the Sun, can lead to what it will fuse.

Some hostesses in the interruptions between the seasons fill with a barrel with water. This is rooted incorrectly. As a result of the impact of moisture, mold and fungus are formed. If there is no need for a barrel, then the best way to store contains containers in a cool place. And necessarily in an empty form!

There is another nuance to use barrels. If the container is intended for storing alcohol or homemade marinades, it is impossible for the packaging for a long time remained dry. If the target destination of the barrel is storage of solid products, then it is not recommended to wet it. Only following all the advice and recommendations for the storage and operation of wooden barrels, you can achieve a positive result. The capacity will serve you for a long time, and the marinades stored in it will retain their juicy taste and an appetizing look. If the process of manufacturing a piece of chips with their own hands seems long and tedious, you can buy a finished product in the company "Alkopribor". Attentive consultants will help you choose the ideal Tar for you, which will serve for a long year!

The wizards of the cooler case left today not so much, but the tradition of doing salmon in the tubs, or to keep honey and wine in the barrels remained in Russia so far. It often happens that there is no possibility for one reason or another to acquire a wooden packaging. Then you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. Let it be not the easiest occupation, however, if you put a clear goal and comply with all the features of the technology, you can make a decent wooden container for storing products and drinks. About how to make an oak barrel with your own hands we will talk below.

We make billets

To make the container you need to start picking material. If you want to store inside bee products, pay attention to the lime or aspen raw materials, Chinar. Not bad honey is stored in a strawberry barrels, alderwood, winds. Oak barrel is ideal for salting, fristed or urine.

If you deal with raw materials, it is worth choosing an old tree. His lower part is best suited for clap. During the workpiece, be sure to follow the chirak to be a couple of centimeters more than the sizes of the future barrel. This stock is needed for ground grinding.

Wood must be raw. Initially, Chuzura splits into 2 parts. To do this, use an ax and a small lounge, which are neatly tapping on the okuhu. Each half is repeatedly splitting. It is necessary to ensure that the separation takes place radially. With each subsequent half come in the same way - the number of blanks depends on how the diameter will be an oak barrel. With your own hands, raw materials prepare simply, the main thing is accuracy. Please note that the blanks can have a different width, but it is not scary.

Clopes dried indoors where good natural ventilation is established. The term is at least 1 month, but ideally even about 1 year. After drying, it is processed by special tools. It can be:

• stroke;
• shirbel;
• plane.

First handle the outer side of the clap, be sure to check the degree of curvature according to a predetermined pattern. It can be cut from a fine one by attaching it to the finished product. After all the exterior surfaces are processed, you can start the side. They are also leveling the pattern, and after processing - fell. The inner surface of the clutch is processed by the plane.

Rings

To make the hoops can be used both steel and wood. The last option is less durable, so it is better to immediately give preference to the metal. For the hoop, hot-rolled steel in the form of a tape is used. Its width is about 3-5 cm, and the thickness: 0.16-0.2 cm.

It is necessary to make a measurement in place where the hoop will be stretched. After that, the width of the strip is added to a certain value, increased twice. With the help of hammer, the workpiece bends, purchasing the shape of the ring, and then the holes are made on or drilled and the bores are put. The material for them serves as a soft steel wire, the diameter of which is 0.4-0.5 cm. One of the internal edges of the hoop is necessarily collapsed by a sharpened end of the hammer.

Subtleties assembly

Production of oak barrels with their own hands requires patience. However, the result is worth spent time and effort. So, to collect booms for salting, a smooth surface is needed. To get the finished barrel you need:

The core does not need to do or disappear before tightening, although there are those who insist on this. There are cases when the workpiece can crack. Then experienced bondari replace it with a new one.

Bottom

To make the bottom, first you need to cut the groove at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the end, its dimensions can be 0.4-0.5 mm. To do this, use a special tool - a sprue. On both sides of the groove with a chisel, you need to make a chamfer from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

The bottom is made from a special shield. It is collected using metal studs or nails. Having drawn the circumference, you need to retreat from it by 1-1.5 cm and cut the future bottom. After that, it is inspired by the Barbell, and the chamfer is cut along the edges. As a result, the thickness of the clap will be not more than 0.3 cm. This ensures complete tightness of the design.

To make the fitting - loosen the bottom hoop and put the bottom. It is introduced into the groove from one side, and from the second - it is adjusted by the hammer to the desired level with light tapping. With a tight course, you can weaken the hoop some more if it is too loose - the hoop is betterressed.

Next, the hoop is quenched again, and the barrel is checked for tightness. To do this, it is poured some water. If flowing between claps - you need to slightly reduce the bottom. If the water is seeping through the bottom or groove, you will have to disassemble the core and narrow out one of the blanks.

Before installing the second bottom, make a hole in it, the diameter of which is not more than 3 cm and make a plug under it. The correct sizes suggest that it will be slightly more bottom thickness and will not speak for the core. That's the whole sequence that needs to be observed to make an oak barrel with their own hands.

Repairs

Can I repair the old barrel? Of course. If an alcoholic drink was kept in it for a long time, it is necessary to disassemble the design and remove the layer with a tree, with a thickness of about 2 mm. Further, the drink does not penetrate the wood. After that, the clans are processed and they are going again.

Repair of the oak barrels can be carried out with their own hands, even if it proceeds. To do this, you need to repeat the same manipulations as in the manufacture of containers - to fit the hoops.

That's it, a cooler case. You can make wooden products yourself, but this requires quite a lot of time and effort. But is it worth spending them if today you can order via the Internet, on the website of the company "Russian Bondar"?

Bondar craft is one of the most difficult, so the answer to the question, how to make a barrel do it yourself, it will also be difficult. This is a very time-consuming process that requires a decent professional professionally about the level and presence of a large number of wood processing tools.

Types of barrels for appointment and wood for their manufacture

Before interested, how to make a barrelYou should decide why you need it. This depends on the choice of material and method of manufacturing. This type of container is manufactured for the following purposes:

1. For fermentation, excerpts and storage of strong alcoholic beverages, wines and beers;
2. For the preparation and storage of pickles;
3. For storing dry products;
4. For storage honey, etc.

Beverage barrels have two bottom and hole to insert the cranes. The same type of container, but without holes were previously used for long-term storage of some products (for example, Solonins).

For other purposes, there are enough barrels with one bottom - they are also called ads. From above, they are covered with a lid or a circle for the neot. Make these details are much easier than the bottom. Make a wooden barrelit is possible from such wood wood as:

1. Oak;
2. Ash;
3. Cherry;
4. linden;
5. alder and others.

The wood of the first three species is the most versatile. It is equally suitable for the container of any purpose. However, the "champion" should recognize the oak barrel, which, being durable, reliable and durable, provides ideal conditions for storing products.

Products from oak have antiseptic properties, healed tanning substances into alcoholic beverages, improving their taste, and also easily withstand the impact of brimorrows during the billet. The ash and cherry are the first "deputies" of oak wood. They possess similar, but more weak properties. Therefore, we will look at. Production of containers from other wood breeds, such as linden, has no fundamental differences with the exception of the nuances of the finish finish.

Oak barrel for honey

Rules for barrels

Before you start doing wooden barrel do it yourself, It is necessary to prepare and prepare high-quality material. Wood should be mature, healthy, not to have vices (bitch, cososal)

The best time for the material workpiece is the late autumn or winter, when the natural moisture of wood is at a minimum level.

Observe all the requirements you can hardly succeed. For example, for the manufacture of clamps of wine-making and brandy barrels of the highest category of quality, the process of drying and excerpts of wood takes 6-8 years, but if you are concerned only how to make a barrel For yourself, follow next rules:

1. Before drying, the churbaks split on the workpiece of the desired thickness;
2. The drying is performed in a location closed from direct sunlight - under a canopy, in Saraj, etc.;
3. The continuation of the drying depends on many factors and may take 1-3 months;
4. the residual moisture of wood before processing should be about 25%.

Accelerating the drying process using hot air and other methods usually leads to a deterioration in the quality of wood and its properties in the finished product. Tips, also take into account the need to exist treated claps before assembling the product. As a result, the residual moisture of wood should be 17-20%.

Making rivets and tools for this

For those who wish make a oak barrel The most difficult will be the manufacture of claps. The process of marking and slices of chumbachs is clearly represented in the following figure.

As a result, you will get the billets of the conical section, of which a clutter make after drying. This detail has a difficult form, so its manufacture makes high demands on the artist's skill. The main sizes of the barrel and its elements, depending on the volume, have the following form:

This table will help to figure out how to make a barrel, and drawing - to understand how to give claps the right form

Tool

and what tools you need for this. The curvature of the side of the sides should provide a barrel of taper of about 8 °, so that the product is resistant to loads from the outside and from the inside. For the surfaces of the surfaces of claps use the plans, Fuganok, the Balcel, the session, and other tools of this group. In this case, the outer surface of the part should have a slightly convex, and the internal - concave form.

Capacity barrels, l	Height, mm.	Diameter centered, mm	Diameter on the edges, mm	Cloquent width, mm	Cloak thickness, mm	Done's thickness, mm

Accuracy and wiring quality are regularly checked by the template. To calculate the number of claps, the greatest length of the circle (centered barrel) is divided into the width of the blanks. Thus, you also define the exact and single size of the part. The process of making cocks can be viewed on the video.

After that, the answer to the question about how to make an oak barrel do it yourselfwill become clearer because you will cope with the most difficult task.

Production of bottom shields and tools for this

For the manufacture of bottom shields, 4-6 slims are used, interconnected with studs of wood or stainless steel. Drawings, or, more precisely, the instruction, this process is given here.

But at first we will limit ourselves to the connection of association, since the remaining operations are carried out taking into account the size of the collected barrel housing. We will remain to do the following:

1. draw a circle on the shield: its diameter must correspond to the size of the bottom part of the barrel, to which the double depth of the aftic groove is added (it is 6 mm);
2. perform control over the contour using an arctic saw or filming knife;
3. remove the chamfers throughout the circumference in order to go into a helical groove.

Similarly (with a correction for a larger or smaller diameter), a lid and a circle for the neot are made. If you intend do it yourself barrel For beverages, which should be remembered that such products are manufactured by individual measurements for top and bottom. You will see the result of your effort only after you collect all the details into one. Building barrel - the most pleasant stage of its manufacture. About how this process is carried out, we will tell below.

Procedure for assembling barrels

The following information about how to make a barrelwill be recommendations on its assembly. For this, except for wood details, you will need metal hoops - assembly and constant. The first of them serves to set and fix the full island. Permanent hoops are divided into outer and cervical (piping). They provide grinding clamps. To make a wooden barrelfrom the existing set of details, you will need to perform the following operations:

1. using clamps on the assembly hoop to fix two, and better three clans;
2. The space between them is filled with the remaining details;
3. from the recorded side, put on the neck hoop;
4. The fascinated side of the island to displeps and pull the clans using the gate (leak), after which it is on this side of the island to wear a helical and cervical hoop;
5. from the side of the assembly hoop, cut a helical groove to install the bottom;
6. Cut and process the first bottom, then put it in place;
7. On the same side, install a helical hoop, which is finally fixed by the bottom;
8. Make finishing processing of the inner and outer surface of the barrel case;
9. Carry out hardened (firing) from the inside;
10. Repeat the bottom installation operation from the opposite side.

The initial assembly stage can be viewed on video

.

Another video

will give an idea of \u200b\u200bsubsequent operations. However, in this case, it should be amended that professionals work here who have their own techniques and many actions perform automatically. Perhaps not everything will turn out the first time, but how to make an oak barrelYou will definitely learn.

For barrels, four hoops are used for the barrels, for a more roomy package, their number is increased to six. They make them from the steel strip width of 30-50 and a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. The diameter of the hoop is determined by measuring the location of its installation on the body of the product. A double bandwidth is added to the value. This is necessary for connecting the strip into the ring using a row from the forging steel wire with a cross section of 4-5 mm.

Answering the question how to make a barrelIt is necessary to mention that the collapse is required at one edge inside the hoop. This gives it the necessary taper for dense adjacent to the cloaks of the island when putting on and placing. A slicing of a helical groove is performed using a special tool that on professional slang is called a sprue. The procedure for something resembles the opening of the round canning can.

In the article about how to make a barrel, It is impossible not to mention the hardening of the product. Most often, this is achieved by firing. Thereby ensures an increased durability of wood to moisture, organic acids and other effects. It is most convenient to do the firing of the case without the bottom with the burner type of portable horn

Cutting surface treatment, drilling holes for cranes (choppers) are made before firing.

Check barrel and its preparation for use

Our advice on how to make a wooden barrel do it yourselfCompletes information on how to check its tightness and prepare a product for use. To search for leaks, the barrel is filled with water. If within an hour after filling it still proceeds, you will have to take action on its sealing. To do this, there is a proven "Dedovsky" method using Rhoze, which is also called a jarry grass. They careated the places of leaks. Another method of sealing is a fascination with natural wax.

Each wizard has their own answers to the question, how to make a barrel, and many professional secrets, for the disclosure of which would have to write a whole monograph. Therefore, you will have to ask for help from the most different nuances of the process of manufacturing barrels. By the way, the literary hero Robinson Crusoe could not cope with this task. When you achieve the tightness of the product, it will only stay to prepare a barrel to use.

Answering the question how to make an oak barrelIt should also provide recommendations for its soaking. Most often, this is done with the help of ordinary water. The procedure takes up to 10 days with a change of fluid every two or three days. However, for barrels intended for spirits, the soaking continues from one month to six months using alcohol-containing liquids with a fortress of 18-55%. In this article, we tried to answer the main questions regarding how to make a barrel. We hope that this information will be useful for you.

What can be compared, for example, cucumber or tomato salted in oak pigeon. And in the lime barrel, honey, apple juice, can be prepared in it. Finally, the oak junction with a lemon or laurel tree and today will not spoil the interior of even the urban apartment. That's just not to find these simple items or in the store or on the market. But you can make a barrel yourself with your own hands, and although this task is not simple, to cope with her a lover master is quite bye.

Clapki.

First of all, you need to choose wood. For storage of honey oak and pine are unsuitable - in the oak barrel the honey darkens, and in pine smells the resin. Here you need linden, aspen, chinar. Survive and poplar, vet, alder. But for the salting, joy or urine, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve not one decade. For other needs, it is possible to use wheezing, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees is going on the clock, it is also called "Klekler". But a fan of marshy and from ordinary firewood will choose the workpiece, and the thinner trunk will adapt to the case. It is best to make claws from raw wood. At first, a chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future clap - they split in half, carefully tapping with a full-length ax. Each half is then rolling into two parts again and so on, depending on the thickness of the chocks (Fig. 1), to ultimately get a blank 5-10 cm wide (for the donon - 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Needs Just try so that the split go radially - it will save a closure in the future from cracking.

Thick blanks dried indoors with natural ventilation at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use the dryer. The dried billet is treated with a row or shropele and a planer. Initially, the outer surface of the clutch is placed. At the same time, to test the curvature of the surface, the template should be made in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of the fine plate along the finished product. Next plasten the side surfaces, also to check their curvature by the template.

Cloak is a rustier - which one end is wider than the other, and a barrel - with the expansion in the middle. The magnitude of these extensions determines the taper of the pipe and the bulge of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the relation between the widest and narrow part of the cloth will be 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).

The side surface treatment is completed by the fog. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece on a foam (Fig. 4). At the next stage, we proceed the inner (with respect to the finished barrel) the surface of the clutch, it becomes an excess wood with a planer or even an ax (Fig. 5). The rigging closure after that can be finished ready, and the jarny should still be sophisticated the middle to 12-15 mm (Fig. 6). Let you not bother you that clans can have a different width - we take everything possible from each workpiece.

Hoops

Hoops for barrels are made of wood or steel. Woods are not as durable, and the hassle is a hundred times more, so it is better to use steel. On the hoops there is a hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.

Measuring the barrel at the site of the hoop stretch, add a double bandwidth to this size. Hammer blows bending the workpiece into the ring, pierce or drill holes and put the rumble of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be fragmented by blowing the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).

At the place of location on the product, the hoops differ on the bucked - the central hoop on the barrel, the umern - the extreme and cervical - intermediate.

Assembly

To one master for all the hands of the grandmother brought a scattering rider with a request to collect. That I had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. I came up with the following: I threw the rope on the floor and lay on it one to another clutch. Then pressed them with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope. Removing gradually the pillows, cut the extreme clutch and secured the hoop.

Bondari do it easier ...

The product is assembled on any smooth surface. Initially, the hoop against each other is mounted with special brackets, bent from the hoop iron, two claps (Fig. 9). Then, attaching to one of them, get to another, which waits for the collected half of the barrel. We will continue the assembly while the clans do not fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.

A slightly tapping with the hammer on the hoop, hesitated and check it, whether the edges of the cloth were tightly agreed. To make a contact of clans throughout the side surface, you need to add a cloud or pull out too much and then put a constant hoop. By the way, if a change in the number of claps does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the claps or replace the narrow to wider.

Having entangled with light blows of the hammer ends of the isow, we put on the middle hoop and put it up to the stop with the help of the nabber (Fig. 10).

Having exhibit the core on a flat surface, describe a pencil using a bar (Fig. 11) Cub line. After planning a helical hoop, cutting a core of 2-3 mm from it and we clean the ends of the clasp by the Rubank. In the same way, and with the other end of the edition.

When making a barrel, after nozzle onion, cervical and a helical wrap on one side, the other side you need to take half. Bondari have a special adaptation for this - yoke. The home wizard can use the cable, rope, chain or wire for the same purposes. You can start a loop and twist it with a gauge or pull the ends of the cable with the lever (Fig. 12).

No rapark or coast of the island, as some experts recommend, do not need to do before tighing. Occasionally, however, it happens that the coolness begins not along the entire length, but in one place and therefore gives a crack. However, Bochar in such cases will prefer to simply make a new riveting.

Donya

The assembled of the core from the inside is preparing a row or shropelem, and the ends of the ends are the brang-gorbach (Fig. 13).

Now in the cozo, you need to make a groove (Fig. 14). The tool cutter can be made of hoop iron, and even better, of the canvas of the saw. The depth and width of the groove must be equal to 3 mm (Fig. 15).

Initially, a bottom shield is collected from the donon with the downtroken outer side and the undercrowd sides surfaces (Fig. 16). The donon is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which the sockets depth 15-20 mm are drilled in advance. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of the right hexagon, inscribed in the circumference of the auctor groove on the core barrel. However, it is necessary to cut the bottom with a margin, retreating from the outlined circle by 1-1.5 mm. After stripping the shropelem from the edge of the bottom, the chamfer is cut (Fig. 17) so that in three millimeters from the edge the thickness of the wood was 3 mm - this is necessary for the tightness of the bottom of the bottom with the outer in a spoken groove (Fig. 18).

We make the first fitting - weakening the hoop, put the bottom, introducing one of its side into the groove, and then with light blows of the hammer and the rest. If the bottom goes tight, you still need to weaken the hoop, and if it is too loose - click.

After stuffing, the hoop should be verified in the absence of cracks. The ideal result is rarely achieved from the first time. If even the gaps are not visible to the eye, they can be found, the bill in the barrel is a little water. If flowing between rivets, it means that the bottom is the bottom and you need to overtake it slightly. Worse, if the water proceeds through the bottom or through a spoken groove. Then you have to disassemble the core and narrow one of the clans.

Before installing the second bottom, it should be drilled a bulk hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm. The plug is done, as shown in Fig. 19, her height should be no less than the thickness of the bottom, however, the cork should not appear for the plane of the edge of the island.

How many barrel serve

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that it should not paint the fuel capacities of oil paint: it closes the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. Wrap it is desirable to paint - they will not rust. In decorative purposes, the barrel, the floral ride can be treated with rubbers.

The brown oak gives a gauge lime into a mixture with a 25 percent solution of ammonia. Black is a solution of iron vapor or infusion for 5-6 days of iron sawdust in vinegar.

The decoction of the rhizomes of the shamery of the scented (Asperula Odo-Rata) stains in a red lamp and aspen. Red and brown gives a branch of the onion husk, brown - decoction of the fancy walnut. These dyes and brighter chemicals, and more stable.

It is necessary to remember that the wood is better saved with constant moisture mode. Therefore, dry products should always be kept dry, and bulk - filled liquid. And those and others cannot be put directly to the ground. It is better to substitute a brick or a packer under the barrel than subsequently get rid of rot, cut the ultrasounds.

Barrels and bans are in great demand in the household. They keep in brine of the fat, ham, roaming cabbage, uroat apples. What can be compared, for example, cucumber or tomato salted in oak tube. And in the lime barrel is perfectly stored honey, apple juice, you can cook kvass in it.

Finally, the oak junction with a lemon or laurel tree and today will not spoil the interior of even the urban apartment. That's just not to find these simple items or in the store or on the market. But you can do it yourself, and although this task is not simple, to cope with it to the amateur mastery is quite bye. We will tell you more about the manufacture of these capacities in the farm.

First of all, you need to choose wood. For storage of honey, oak and pine are unsuitable - in the oak barrel, honey darkens, and in the pine smells the resin. It is necessary for linden, aspen, chinar. Survive and poplar, vet, alder. But for the salting, joy or urine, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve not one decade. For other needs, you can use wheezing, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch, and even birch.

Determined with the sizes you will help here such a table.

Exterior dimensions				Width and depth Urentious groove	Distance from a secondary groove to the end
Barrel container (L)	Height	Diameter in bunch	In the head
15	345	295	262	3*3	20
25	420	340	300	3*3	20
50	535	420	370	3*3	25
100	670	515	450	3*3	25
120	770	525	460	3*3	25

Notice, here are the sizes of barrels to choose the size for the pipe, the height and diameter of the head remains the same. The diameter in the bunch of barrels (diameter in the center) for the pipe goes into the bottom diameter.

When the size is selected, you need to proceed to rivets, the main component of the barrel.

Give the sizes of rivet

Capacity	Width Klepp	Klekeck thickness	Thickness Doniev	Width Doniev
15	40-90	14	16	50 or more
25	40-90	14	16	50 or more
50	40-90	17	19	50 or more
100	40-100	18	19	50 or more
120	40-100	18	19	50 or more

There is another way to determine the size. The ratio of the pitch or barrel diameter should be in proportion, for example, 350: 490 mm (Fig. 1-6). Increasing or reducing height, change the diameter of the container. The number of rivets for barrel or chubs is calculated according to the formula 2 * PI * R / W, where R is the radius of the pipe in the lower section (for the barrel - in the middle); "PI" is a constant value of 3.14; W is the riveting width on the bottom of the pipe (for a barrel - in the middle).

Kleck

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees is going on, it is called - "Rippoint". But a fan of marshy and from ordinary firewood will choose the workpiece, and the thinner trunk will adapt to the case. It is best to make rivets from raw wood. At first, a chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - they are split off in half, carefully tapping with a full-time axle. Each half is then coluting into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chocks, ultimately get a blank 5-10 cm wide (for the donon - 15 cm) and a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. You only need to try to split She walked radially - it would save the riveting in the future from cracking.

Thick blanks dried indoors with natural ventilation at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use the dryer. The dried billet is treated with a row or shropele and a planer.

Marking riveting.

Take a plate width from 30 to 100 mm, along the outer side, a line is carried out that divide the riveting in half in width (for the barrel - and in length). For the taper of the pipe (barrels), it is necessary to withstand the tape of riveting. It should be about 8 °. This means that with the width of riveting on the bottom of the pipe (for the barrel - in the middle) 100 mm, at the top it should be 8 mm already, i.e. 92 mm. And for the barrel at the top and bottom - 92 mm. Fix the installed riveting width with dots and connect 4 points with lines - for public and 6 points - for barrel. These are planing guidelines that determine the taper. The plane of the radius segment on the template, its direction to the center together with the already defined slope of the future head of the barrel or tube is the main requirement for the mouth of the riveting one to the other during a sewage. Therefore, it is necessary to make a template to the treated cloth, checking the planing.

Ostrog Cloch.

It is plasted by a riveting of the Rovenkom, causing every thickness, and immediately determine which side will be outdoor. For this we get the left and right side of the riveting along the length. Squarel with oval base and iron plane on the template (Fig. 5) the inner side is completely and carried out with a pencil line dividing riveting in half along length. Then the riveting in length is shoved and remove the separation line on the ends. Semi-cell (FUNCOM) is processed by the outdoor and side sides of the riveting, the correctness of the planing is verified by the template. It is made on the radius of the assembly hoop for the pipe, and for the barrel - on the radius of the PUP hoop, made in advance. For a barrel with two bottoms, two pairs of hoops are harvested - 2 stubborn and 2 PUPs. Pup wrap should flow freely through the resistant one.

Especially carefully check the correctness of the side of the side of the riveting for the barrel. The template must fit tightly to the side and outdoor sides of the riveting, especially in the midline dividing the riveting in half in length. When planing side sides, you cannot allow deviations from the line brought to the end and the deserted riveting in half.

Hoops

Hoops for barrels are made of wood or steel. Woods are not as durable, and the hassle is a hundred times more, so it is better to use steel. On the hoops there is a hot rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.

Measuring the barrel at the site of the hoop stretch, add a double bandwidth to this size. Hammer blows bending the blank into the ring, pierce or drill holes and put rivets from soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm. One inner edge of the hoop must be fragmented by blowing the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand.

Assets assembly

The assembly hoop is made by the average between the riding and the bottom of the pipe and slightly smaller diameter for the midline for the barrel. On a pure wooden base, we put a vertically assembly hoop and put 5-6 rivets inside the outside to the hoop. On the left, one of the rivets and the hoop clamp clamp. Slightly raise the hoop and spread the remaining rivets. Close the hoop. Tight fit of rivets along the entire length (for publication) and to the midline (for a barrel) - the result of thorough ingots and fitting. In the same way, we collect the cores for the barrel, but here we remove the assembly hoop after the navel of the PUP hoop, then stubborn hoop. If it snaps tightly, it means that we are correctly plashed and correctly picked up the last riveting in width.

The cores for the barrel from the middle or slightly above the fan-like diverge to its bottom. For tightening the dissolved end of the isow, various methods and devices are used. The end of the steel stranded cable with a diameter of 6-8 mm is fixed for fixed support. The second end is thrown onto the hot, packed dissipated core, attached to the head of the post from the ground inserted for this purpose, or a raised part of the log and the method "Removing", with the help of a strong cola inserted into the loop at the end of the cable, "twist" the cable and put on Pup, and then thorough hoops.

After the assembly of the core is tested on horizontal and verticality and hesitate completely all hoops. From the inside of the island (barrels or tubes), it is cleaned, and in the ends of the rivets are cut into 1/3 of the thickness (Fig. 6) and 2-3 mm from the outside. Finally cleaned outdoor and inside the island, the upper and lower ends fell.

Installing Donets in the Easpens

For this, several operations are performed.

1. Cutting a helical groove in the cooler. The helper applied a helper groove. The width of the divorce of the tooth steel file is 4-5 mm. Therefore, the width of the cutting udering groove should be 4-5 mm. The sawturo performs from a coated bar of a coat of 4-5 mm. Therefore, the depth of the groove of the air can not be different. Brusker's thickness of the coat is a distance limiter of a distance of a rid of the ultra of the top to the bottom of the plank, on which the bar is fixed, i.e. 40-50 mm. Mandatory on both sides of the auctor groove, it is necessary to remove the chamfer of 2-3 mm or a little more to prevent the skill of the cable at the insertion of the Donia and the compression of their hoops.

2. Build bottom shields. They are collected on wooden or metal (preferably stainless) studs-nails of 4-6 skulls. Extreme are called jambs, medium - ladels. On the shoals take a plank that wider. We still do not yet know the diameter of the circumference on the cooler. We take the circulation (Fig. 4) and weeping his legs about the radius of the alleged circumference along the cooler, insert the tip of the feet of the circulation into the user, divide the circle on 6 parts. Thus, we will define the radius of the circumference on the publication for the Donets. We transfer the resulting radius to the bottom shield and draw a circle.

3. Dipping of the Donents. Loop the desired dona with an ampagular saw or spinned hacksaw. At the same time, the propyl should be on the inside of the line, the battered circle when the dust separation of the saws is 2-2.5 mm. By this we reduce the diameter of the circle by 0.14 permanent "PI".

4. Date processing. We put the dont-circle on the workbench, completely from two sides, in the face of a pencil in the middle of the line with a thickness of 3-4 mm. A radius of 25-30 mm smaller than the Donette, to do so on two sides of the circle. These are the borders of the soles. The chisel or plans will remove the chamfer and make sure that the arsenic grooves and the filmed stage of the Donets fit well. Line on the end of the Donets leave untouched.

5. Installing the Donents. This is the final barrel manufacturing operation or tub. I turn over the energies of the public a wide part and slightly knock down the lower hoop. The barrel is knocked up stubborn, and the navel hoop is shifted so much so that the Donets come into a helical groove. Hold the donation in a horizontal position when installing in Urban, a kapron thread will help, crucifably tieting the bottom. When the Donets are installed in the ultrasters, the thread is pulled out, the hoops put in place. Before installing the second dona, two tongue holes opposite each other are drilled in it and 4-5 cm from the inner side of the outstand with a diameter of 20-25 mm, which put the tongs so that the barrel does not get the garbage. After installing the second dona, the hoops finally stuff and follow that the Donets are fascinated by rivets in the units, and the ripples would not have gaps among themselves. If the ripples were properly planed and sustained a slope on the template, drank neatly the Donets, the product would be high quality.

Take note.

1. Before assembling the cores for barrel or tubs, the treated riveting must be dried up to 17-20% humidity.

2. Push the oak, spruce, pine, aspen barrels and tubs need not less than 10 days, changing water in 2-3 days. At the same time, shoals and skias are soaked, which pressed the fermented products.

3. To reduce the formation of mold on riveting pads during storage in the cellar, it is wiped with a tampon, moistened in the calcined vegetable oil. Jocks, skias and clamping stone once a week washed with hot water.

How many barrel serve

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that it is not necessary to paint the fuel tanks of oil paint: it closes the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. Wrap it is desirable to paint - they will not rust. In decorative purposes, the barrel, the floral ride can be treated with rubbers.

A brown color of the oak gives harated lime into a mixture with a 25 percent solution of ammonia. The black solution of iron vapor or infusion for 5-6 days of iron sawdust in vinegar.

The decoction of the rhizomes of the shamery of the scented (Asperula Odo-Rata) stains in a red lamp and aspen. Red and brown gives a decoction of onion husk, brown-hangwood walnuts. These dyes and brighter chemicals, and more stable.

It is necessary to remember that the wood is better saved with constant moisture mode. Therefore, dry products should always be kept dry, and bulk - filled liquid. And those and others can not be put directly to the Earth. It is better to substitute a brick or a packer under the barrel than subsequently get rid of rot, cut the ultrasounds.

But no matter how much the barrel made by their own hands, all this time it will be the owner of a pleasant reminder of overcome difficulties in comprehending the secrets of the ancient Crafts of Bondar.

© Ready barrels in the photo