Few people can be surprised with fashionable headphones nowadays, but it is quite another matter if they are made by hand. Such an accessory will become hallmark and maybe also an original gift... In addition, the problem of how to make an earphone arises when one of these paired accessories breaks. In order not to buy new ones, you can simply dismantle the old ones and make new ones from the speakers that remain in working order.

How to assemble a headset from different kits

As a rule, it is rare when both headphones stop working at once, and only one of the pair always breaks. A music accessory that remains in working order can be soldered to another speaker from a different kit. How to make headphones at home from two old sets? To do this, remove the plastic part of the cable with a knife or thin scissors from the plug. The wires are then soldered to other connectors from a different pair (having the same color). It is better not to twist the headphones, but to solder them, otherwise part of the signal will be lost.

Self-assembly of the headset

Those who like to do everything on their own will be interested in learning how to make headphones with their own hands.

This requires three parts: a plug, cable, and speakers. As a rule, these are some already used accessories. For example, a broken cable, speakers from an inoperative headset, etc. are suitable for assembly. The sequence is as follows: you need to take a plug that matches the headphone jack on the equipment. For example, ¼ "are suitable for stationary equipment, 1/8" - for portable. A four-core cable is attached to the plugs. The length of the wire can be different, but usually it is from 80 to 120 cm. The cable is wrapped with electrical tape, then the plug is closed. After the speakers are attached. They can be either from old headphones or homemade ones. Having disassembled the old speakers, you need to find the same contacts in the emitters as on the plug. The wires on the cable are soldered to them.

If not finished headset for listening, you can assemble it yourself. How to make headphones with only two speakers of the same size? You just need to place these devices in round casings, which can be used even in jars of shoe polish or cream.

The main condition is that the devices must be of the same size. The speakers are fitted with 30 ohm resistors each. It remains only to connect the wires.

Fancy glowing headphones

Those wishing to also "upgrade" their accessories can be advised to make them glow. The so-called LED headset is currently popular on the market, but you can create it yourself if you know how to make it. on the market are quite expensive, since there is little competition among manufacturers. If you show a little perseverance, then you can make such headphones at home. In addition, it is always more pleasant to use a hand-made thing. How to make the earphone glow? To do this, you only need LED-LEDs, and a soldering apparatus. The tube is cut and the original headphones are inserted there. Then it is necessary to fix it inside the silicone. Inside the tube, the LED itself must be located, and the wires must go outside, since they provide the light bulbs with energy from the batteries. Batteries are attached to the headphone housing and are replaced as they are used up.

How to make do-it-yourself bullet headphones

It is very interesting if your favorite musical accessories look like shells on the outside. This will require, first of all, old headphones. You also need to get old 40 gauge "Smith and Wesson" casings, which will be the main decoration of the product.

The screwdriver should be taken to match the size of the wire from the headphones. You will also need a screwdriver, a hacksaw for metal, a vice, (10 millimeters) and sandpaper. The sleeves are processed using a screwdriver (a wooden dowel should be put on it, wrapped sandpaper). You can use two grains of emery - 400 and 800. Since the sleeve is longer than the headphones in size, it must be reduced by 8 mm (from open edge). Cut edges are best sanded with sandpaper and buffed with felt to avoid further cuts. Old wires are inserted into the new earphones-sleeves, the speakers are soldered, and the whole structure is neatly glued together.

Manufacturing of structural parts and assembly of emitters. Membrane. Lavsan film made from K73-16 capacitors is well suited as a membrane material. In many ways, this is a wonderful base, with the exception of one drawback - its width is only 35 mm, which imposes certain restrictions on the area and shape of the membrane. In capacitors for an operating voltage of 100 V, the film thickness is 4 ... 5 microns.

How to make your own headphones

This is quite enough for an amateur design. Indeed, even with such a thickness of the film, its mass, as follows from, is comparable to the mass of faltering air. The capacitance rating of the capacitor does not matter, it is important that the length of the capacitor body is 48 mm. This is the maximum possible size, and the width of the film removed from such a capacitor is exactly the same 35 mm.

Of course, if it is possible to use a film of suitable dimensions similar in its properties, then the task of manufacturing a larger-sized membrane is greatly simplified. However, the option with a capacitor film, although it is problematic from a technological point of view, is quite affordable and requires separate consideration. To do this, you can refer to, where the manufacture of a membrane for TDS-7 phones is described in detail. With regard to this case, the revised part of the description looks as follows. Carefully cut along the capacitor body and take out its "filling".

We unwind and remove the initial part of the roll 20 ... 30 cm long, where a thick film is used as a dielectric. Further, in fact, the working part of the capacitor begins, which is two films folded together (capacitor plates). Cut off a 15 cm long strip from the roll. Separate the films from each other with a sharp scalpel. The main difficulty is to "hook" on the beginning of the section of the fused films.

Further, to facilitate the process, you can drop a few drops of acetone into the formed gap between the films. After the films are separated, metallization should be removed from them. In this case, you can use ordinary bleach, the process time is 20 minutes.

After that, the films should be thoroughly rinsed, dried and ironed with a hot iron (temperature for wool) through a sheet of paper, it is better just between the sheets in the book. At the exit of the process, we obtain transparent, even, smooth films suitable for work. To obtain the desired size of the membrane in width, the resulting two films must be glued together. In contrast to the method described in the method, in this case, gluing must be carried out with an overlap.

We do it like this.

We put the previously prepared films, as described above, on a flat smooth surface and connect them together with long sides with an overlap of 1.5 ... 2 mm. Holding them in this position and bending one of the sides, we apply a little bit (literally in micro portions) BF-6 glue along the film overlap line. You can press right away. In this case, it is better to start gluing from the middle. This method is more laborious in comparison with the more laborious, but in terms of the strength of the seam, the result is much better.

In addition, the adhesive layer is protected on both sides from the active effect of the working coating (spraying) of the membrane. To eliminate irregularities, the film obtained in this way must also be ironed again. In this case, the glue seam should be isolated from the paper with a lavsan film (from a roll), otherwise the heated glue, if it is outside the seam, will stick to the paper sheet. After heat treatment, micro-folds may appear on the film as a result of eliminating irregularities. The main thing is that the resulting film should be completely flat without bulges and warpage. One should not hope that in the future, when stretching it on the insulator, such defects will be corrected.

The thickness of the glue seam after smoothing with a heated iron is about 20 microns, and its effect on the total weight of the film is minimal, and the strength of such gluing is quite sufficient.

After trimming, a workpiece with dimensions of 70x120 mm is obtained with a glue seam running along the axis of symmetry (Fig. 2). It should be added that it is better to stock up on such semi-finished products for future use in order not to repeat the whole process again in case of failure.

Despite the fact that the film removed from the capacitor is initially metallized, the issue of covering the membrane is not decided in favor of its native conductive coating. And there are two reasons for this. First, one-sided, as in this case, metallization leads to twisting of the film, which is practically impossible to eliminate, which is very inconvenient in operation and ultimately leads to warping of the membrane.

Secondly, an extremely thin metallization layer is prone at breaks, in particular, at the output lobe, to a complete loss of conductivity, which, in turn, leads to a loss of efficiency of the entire emitter as a whole. Therefore, the removal of metallization, as described in, does not contradict the general idea in this case.

So, the semi-finished product in the form of a smooth, without signs of warping, transparent film with the indicated dimensions is ready, and now you can proceed to the next stage - the stage of membrane spraying. Judging by the debates on thematic forums, the technologies for manufacturing branded membranes remain secret, and, perhaps, they are not realizable at the amateur radio level, nevertheless there are a lot of ideas. One of the most affordable proposed methods for coating a substrate is spraying an antistatic agent "Lana" or other similar physical properties aerosols.

Such a coating is classified as high-resistance, and its specific resistance is 2 ... 5 GΩ / cm². And despite the fact that such coverage is presented as a trial, temporary, in fact, the final result in relation to GT can be quite acceptable. So, almost all prototypes, subject to the manufacturing technology, worked without serious claims to such spraying. However, it was not possible to estimate the lifetime of such a deposition.

Some samples successfully worked for more than a year without a decrease in sensitivity, after which, one way or another, they were modernized. It should also be noted that such membranes are unpretentious for storage in frost (-30 ° C) or at elevated temperatures (+50 ° C). Satisfactory tolerance and 100% humidity (with subsequent drying). Over time, the resistivity of such a coating tends to increase, which can lead to a noticeable increase in the time of accumulation of charges on the membrane from the moment the polarizer is switched on.

The spraying process is quite simple. To begin with, you need to make a protective frame from thin even cardboard. The frame is needed so that the spray from the sprayer falls only on the working area of ​​the film. In fig. 2 this area is highlighted gray... It is better to reduce the inner dimensions of the frame by 0.5 ... 1 mm to limit the transitional area of ​​the spraying. The marked cuts on the membrane petal are made immediately before stretching it on the insulator or in the process of stretching, in place. We apply the frame to the film and spray it from a distance of 20 ... 25 cm.

This should be done in moderation, so that there are no sagging on the film. Antistatic agent is active against BF-6 glue, but the latter is already protected by layers of films. The operation must be repeated twice with an interval of 2 hours. The opposite side of the membrane should be sprayed in the same way. It is recommended to cover the petal with an additional layer or even two, since problems associated with a decrease in sensitivity due to

Convenient to use are self-tapping screws with flat heads of the specified diameter, clamped along the thread by the "crocodiles" of the voltmeter. Of course, these voltage values ​​are approximate and depend on the properties of the antistatic agent, which may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. In this case, we are talking about the products of the Novomoskovsk plant. If necessary, the number of spray layers can be increased. The principle is simple - the thinner the layers, the more there are.

But such antistatic agent as "Lyra" is less preferable. A coating based on it has a noticeably higher resistivity and, in the end, may be comparable to the leakage resistance of the entire structure, which will complicate the task. For example, in the previous measurement circuit, the voltmeter readings may be in the range of millivolts. In addition, "Lyra" has a higher stickiness, which creates certain problems.

Fixed electrodes

From one-sided foil fiberglass with a thickness of 1.5 mm, we cut out two identical blanks according to the dimensions of the finished electrode, as in Fig. 4. Both NEs - inner and outer - are the same, except that on the outer (farthest from the ear) electrode, instead of the fixing holes with a diameter of 2 mm, as shown in fig. 4, do threaded holes M2.

You do not need to drill the mounting holes yet. But to drill holes for perforation when using a stationary drilling machine you can at the same time. To do this, both parts must be pressed together with foil-coated sides and a stencil must be applied to them. The package obtained in this way is fastened with miniature clamps. Holes should be drilled within the boundaries of the foil area, with the exception of the lead-out tab.
At the end of the drilling, the package is disconnected, the burrs on the drilled electrodes are removed with a small file and sandpaper. You may then have to drill through all the holes to clean the holes. Ultimately, the working surfaces of the NE should be, as they say, in perfect condition. If it is supposed to use manual electric drill, then in order to avoid possible distortions of the holes of the NE, it is better to drill separately, one by one.

The next stage is the manufacture of insulators. To do this, you will need a one-sided foil glass fiber laminate (use of getinax is allowed) with a thickness along the width of the selected gap. Let this be a compromise from earlier specified values, for example 0.8 mm, from the standard series of fiberglass brand SF-1. Of course, the gap and thickness of the NE can be chosen differently, based on the available materials or for other reasons.

This will mainly lead only to a change in the thickness of the emitter, which is easy to take into account in the future. In this case, the sensitivity is corrected by the selection of the polarization voltage. One emitter will need two parts - A and B, as in Fig. 5. Insulator B is shown only fragmentarily (lower part), and for its manufacture it is possible to use non-foil fiberglass, otherwise the details are identical.

You can cut the insulators with a conventional cutter, having previously drilled holes in the corners with a thin drill. After that, the foil should be removed, except for the area highlighted in color (Fig. 5) - this is the contact area for gluing the membrane petal and soldering the cable conductor.
The cutout in the lower part of the insulator B is designed so that the adhesive contact between the membrane petal and the contact pad does not deform during assembly of the package. In the absence of foil-clad fiberglass of the specified thickness, the contact petal can be cut out of copper foil and glued in place with the Moment universal glue.

Then, with epoxy glue (plasticizer is required), the insulators are glued to the inner (foil-clad) sides of the stators, and the tab of the insulator A should be directed in the same direction as the foil-clad side of its stator. In order to save material, insulators can be composed of individual strips 5 mm wide. In this case, it is better to use a mandrel in the form of a thin rectangular plastic plate with dimensions of 50 × 85 mm, which guarantees good repeatability internal dimensions insulator frames. After drying, any beads of epoxy adhesive on the working surfaces of the stators must be removed.

Now you can drill the mounting holes and it is better to do this simultaneously on both NEs, precisely aligning them with insulators to each other and fixing them with clamps. First, through holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm should be drilled. Then disconnect the NE and drill holes up to 2 mm on the inner (closest to the ear) electrode, and cut the M2 thread with the first tap number on the outer electrode. Ultimately, the bag will be fastened with 5 mm M2 screws with countersunk head... Therefore on outside of the internal electrode, it is necessary to countersink the holes for the screw heads. The thread in fiberglass has limitations in reliability, and this must be borne in mind when assembling the package.

Upon completion of all work related to machining, the parts should be thoroughly cleaned of dust and degreased. Before painting the conductive surfaces of the NE insulators, it is necessary to protect them with adhesive tape from paint falling on them. After painting, you should pay attention to the quality of the coating. Hard blotches protruding above the surface, which sometimes do occur, should be cleaned out.

Assembling the emitters

At this stage, first of all, you should perform the correct stretching of the membrane, which is attached to the NE with insulator A. This important point, on which the success of the work as a whole depends. Stretching the membrane itself is not that difficult and time consuming. Much harder job to adjust its tension when you have to partially peel off the membrane. In this case, tears of the film are possible. Therefore, it is desirable that the desired result is obtained the first time. You can pre-practice on a dummy - uncoated film, which is not a pity. The acquisition of a certain skill is crucial. In extreme cases, you can use a film with a thickness of 10 microns. Such a film is used in capacitors K73-16 for a rated voltage of 400 V.

The prepared membrane is carefully placed on the stator so that its sprayed part is exactly above the perforation of the electrode, and its petal coincides with the foil section of the insulator. In fig. 6 numbers indicate the sequence of actions.

First, at point 1 on the end side of the stator, apply a smear of the universal glue "Moment" and after 10 ... 20 s bend and fix on it top edge membranes. Further, at points 5 and 8, you also need to apply light dotted strokes of glue on the end. After exposure, fix lower part diaphragms with moderate tension in the direction of the arrows. You do not need to be especially zealous with glue.

The film is lightweight and holds well even with minimal use. After a holding time of about 10 minutes, a thin layer of glue should be lightly smeared with a thin layer of glue on the end areas 1-2 and 1-11 (hereinafter, they are indicated by bold lines). Again exposure for 10 ... 20 s - and the upper edge of the membrane is bent over the NE end with simultaneous tension along the arrows. The same operation is performed with the lower part of the membrane (sections 5-6 and 7-8).

This completes the vertical stretch. In this case, the middle part of the membrane should turn out to be flat, longitudinal (vertical) waves can only be at its edges. After a longer exposure of up to 30 minutes, you can stretch in width. For this, a thin layer of glue is applied to section 3-4 of the stator end face along its entire length. Exposure 10 ... 20 s - and also carry out the bend of the lateral edge of the membrane to the end along the entire length with a tension slightly greater than it is necessary to eliminate waves.

And again exposure for 10 minutes, after which the opposite edge of the membrane is glued to the other end of the electrode in the same way (section 9-10). The result of the work performed should be a completely flat membrane without waves or folds. You can slightly blow on the membrane, making sure that there are no vibrations of its individual sections. The better the membrane is made, the more less problems when stretching it.

Glue "Moment" holds the tension of the membrane well, while allowing to correct a possible defect. This will require acetone, but it should be used in minimal portions so that it does not flow onto the sprayed part of the membrane, otherwise leaks may appear, which can often be eliminated only by replacing the membrane itself. But if the defect is noticed even at the moment of gluing, when the glue has not yet completely grabbed it, then it is possible to quickly separate the section of the film from the insulator without resorting to acetone. A NE with a membrane stretched on it is shown in Fig. 7.

Now you can roughly assess the quality of the membrane tension by listening to its resonant response when you tap the electrode with your finger. A "flabby" sound indicates that the tension is too weak, while ringing, on the contrary, indicates that the tension is too high. The sound should be low in tone and elastic. Generally speaking, it is better to slightly overtighten the membrane than understretch.

Ultimately, slightly higher losses at frequencies below 40 ... 50 Hz are not as important as the consequences of a too loosely stretched membrane. These include a rather unpleasant phenomenon that arises with a small gap or due to an excessively weak tension of the membrane - this is its relaxation oscillations, and sometimes adhesion to one of the NEs. The reason for this phenomenon is that in the event of an asymmetry in the position of the membrane in the gap, a difference force acts on it, tending to pull the membrane to the nearest this moment to her NE.

But as follows from the conversations on the Internet forums, even branded products are not immune from this. Then, at the point of contact of the membrane petal with the foil section of the insulator, a little conductive glue should be applied so as to ensure contact with the foil on both sides of the membrane petal, cutting off its excess, as shown in Fig. 8 (fragment of NE).

Such a contact, despite its seeming doubtfulness given the oily properties of "Lana", is actually quite reliable. The remaining free corner of the output of the insulator is intended for soldering a conductor with a polarizing voltage + Uо. Conductive glue-paste can be prepared on your own by thickly mixing fine copper sawdust filed with a file in a drop of PF-283 varnish. Such a paste hardens quickly, and it should be prepared immediately before use.

Headphones are a device that tends to break down completely unexpectedly and out of place. Usually, new headphones are immediately bought, because today it is quite difficult to imagine life without headphones. New headphones last no longer than old ones; Thus, in a few years, you can collect a whole bag of headphones of varying degrees of breakage. Do not throw them away - as a rule, it is quite possible to collect half a bag of fully functional devices from a bag of non-working headphones.

Making headphones from scratch with your own hands is not easy and very pointless. One way or another, you get an assembly of headphones from four constituent elements- plug, cable, speakers and housing. Everything except the case will probably have to be bought from a radio store or cut off from old headphones - and the case, probably, too, unless, of course, you have some original idea and especially straight arms. Nobody forbids casting a new plastic case - but is it worth the candle?

Collecting new headphones from a pair of old ones is a matter without any special tricks. To do this, you only need a sharp stationery knife, a soldering iron and a roll of duct tape.

Exploring the headphone device

Before you start assembling headphones with your own hands, you should figure out what this device consists of and how it works.

Standard headphones, whether in-ear or on-ear, are made up of three main elements:

So, the device of the headphones is very simple, so disassembling the old ones and assembling the new ones will not be an overwhelming task. But before you cut old non-working headphones into pieces, you need to find out why they don't work, what can be used from them and what cannot.

Diagnostics of spare parts

Broken headphones may not work for many reasons. First, before dissecting the device, make sure that they are not actually working - perhaps the problem is not with them at all, but with the sound source you are using.

If the headphones themselves do not work for sure, find out which part is inoperative and which can be used. The main causes of breakdowns are wires that have come off the plug contacts, a cable break and a speaker breakdown. Thus, you may need three pairs of broken headphones to assemble new working ones - from one you will take the plug, from the other - the cable, from the third - the case with the speakers.

We disassemble old headphones

Get your broken headphones ready for use and find the right tool:

• a sharp knife for stripping and cutting wires;
• soldering iron for connecting wires with contacts and fixing twists;
• insulating tape or heat-shrinkable strip for connecting cable lengths.

In the last step, you found out which parts are suitable for further operation - feel free to shred the headphones and separate these working parts. The plug must be cut off so that at least 3 cm of the old cable extends from it. Likewise, the speakers are cut off.

If a working plug is not found, cut it completely: remove the plastic case and tear off the remaining wires from the contacts, they will no longer be useful.

The old cable does not have to be intact. Let's say it was too short, and you want to build it up in the new headphones, or in all the old headphones it is torn. It doesn't matter - take as many segments as you find - it's not difficult to connect them.

How long should the cable be?

The standard length of the headphone cable is 80–120 cm. In this case, a good range of action is also ensured - the sound source is rarely far from the headphone case, and the effect of the cable on the sound quality is vanishingly small. Making the cable longer can cause signal loss, leading to distortion, noise and squeaking in the headphones. A shorter cable will simply be inconvenient.

Do you need a cable at all? Is it possible to DIY wireless headphones? Well, this, of course, is possible, but it is better to do this if the old headphones were also wireless - in this case, you can use a working transmitter by inserting it into a case with working speakers. It is difficult for an inexperienced user to supplement the previously wired headphones with a wireless interface - you will need to create a control microcircuit and program it.

We collect new headphones with our own hands

So you've got a complete set of parts that work, no matter if they are sourced from old headphones or purchased from a store. It remains only to assemble them correctly, and you can start listening to music.

Plug

The first step is to deal with the plug. Its attachment can occur in two ways:

• if it worked, then the piece of wire extending from it simply joins the rest of the cable;
• if a non-working plug is taken, it will have to be disassembled and thoroughly connected to a new cable.

Let us examine the second situation in more detail. The design of the plug is simple and does not differ in particular depth - there is, in principle, nothing to break there, so even if it no longer works as part of the headphones, it is quite functional by itself and can be used again.

Under the plastic housing you will find the metal base of the plug, from which two or more metal plates different lengths... In the case of conventional stereo headphones, there will be three plates - two pins for transmitting the left and right channels and a pin for ground. The third contact is the easiest to determine - it is the longest and is usually attached to the sleeve - the longest part of the plug extending from the base.

We take a cable or one of the parts of the future cable and strip one of its ends. Under the braid, you can find 3 or more often 4 wires, which are again stripped of insulation. After that, using a soldering iron, it is worth melting the transparent protective layer so that the current passes as freely as possible. After that, the wiring is connected to their contacts - the channels can be safely confused in places, this will not affect anything. Copper conductors are twisted, tied to contacts and secured blowtorch... Remember that the wires must be insulated from each other.

The plug body cannot be restored, but you can use anything instead - just wrap the twist with electrical tape or thread the plug into the syringe tip or pen cap.

Cable

If the cable is assembled from several sections, the parts will have to be twisted securely together. For this, the parts to be connected are freed from the braid, and the wires are stripped of insulation. After that, the wires are twisted in a linear or spiral way - detailed instructions it is not needed here, this operation is easily performed and on a whim. Then the twist is fastened with a soldering iron, the channels are isolated from each other and from the ground. From above, the twist is wrapped with electrical tape or tightened with heat shrink tape. The main thing is to choose the color for the braid so that the cable does not look too artisanal. As a last resort, you can make a homemade winding from thread or lacing over the plastic braid.

Speaker

All that remains is to attach the speaker. Disassemble the case in any convenient way - it is best if such a possibility is provided and the case parts are fastened with screws that can be unscrewed.

On the body of the emitter itself, you will find the same contacts as on the plug. The corresponding channel is connected to one of them, the ground to the second. We solder, insulate, assemble the case back.

Thus, from several non-working pairs of headphones, it is easy to assemble new headphones with your own hands using the simplest set of tools. There is no point in assembling headphones from scratch - it will be easier (and, as a rule, cheaper) to just buy them at the nearest store.

Subwoofer headphones are especially popular with professionals as well as music lovers. These headphones deliver clearer sound so you can enjoy your favorite music. However, not everyone can buy subwoofer headphones, since they cost a lot of money. What if there is a great desire to acquire such headphones, but there are no appropriate funds? You will find the answer to this question in this material.

And first we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the author's video

What do we need:
- round headphones;
- speakers;
- construction tape;
- screws;
- cotton wool;
- glue gun.

Let's start right away with the shape of the headphones. It depends entirely on the shape of the speakers. The author uses round speakers, so his headphones also have round shape... As for the construction tape, we do not need it entirely: we need a cardboard tube, that is, its base. The speakers can be removed from the TV, as the author does.

First, we need to disassemble the headphones. You need to disassemble almost completely. We throw out the old speakers from there, that is, plastics with wires and rubber elements remain.

We cut off the old wires and connect new ones with connectors for new speakers. If there are none, then you can leave the old wires, but in this case you will have to solder the new speakers with a soldering iron.

For added convenience, you can remove the plastic mounts of the new speakers and use them between the speakers and rubber elements.

We take a cardboard ring from the old scotch tape and divide it in half.

For greater aesthetics, you can wrap the rings with red electrical tape, as the author does.

We begin to collect headphones. First, we screw the speakers to the plastics.

We put rings on the speakers, connect the wires. We check if everything works as intended.

Apply a layer of hot melt glue to the plastic parts of the headphones.

We glue the first ring.

We hammer in cotton wool there.

We put another layer of glue on the ring, after which we glue the speaker itself.

We repeat the same with the next speaker.

We put on rubber parts.

The subwoofer headphones are ready. In the end, we note that the new design of the headphones can harm the auditory mechanism if you listen to music for too long and too loud. The fact is that the new speakers transmit lower frequencies, so you need to be extremely careful and follow all safety rules. Do not use headphones with an amplifier.

Today, millions of people around the world practically cannot imagine their life without music. Every day, in various establishments, in transport, you can see men and women wearing headphones. However, this device breaks down quite often. That is why many people have thought at least once about how to make headphones themselves. Let's consider the simplest ways.

How to make new headphones from old ones

Besides, there is another way how to make headphones. This will require:

When you fully restore the normal functioning of the headphones, all you have to do is test them on a suitable music device (phone, computer, tablet).

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• Non-working headphones, soldering iron, scissors, electrical tape.

• how to assemble headphones at home

• - adapter;
• - the wire;
• - insulating tape;
• - soldering iron;
• - microphone;
• - speaker.

The secret is simple. All devices (both phone and headset) must be turned on.

On your phone, start searching for devices in the bluetooth menu. At the same time, press the headset power button until the indicator comes on. Make sure it is on and not blinking. The phone must find headset and connect with her. If it doesn't happen right away, just search for devices with the headset already turned on.

How do I get my headphones repaired at home? detailed instructions

Everyone knows the unpleasant situation when after some time one of the headphones starts to sound bad, emit crunchy notes, or even becomes completely silent. Even worse, this situation is equally possible for both expensive models and for cheap. It all depends on the intensity of the use of this sound equipment and the accuracy of the owner.

Buying new good "ears" is a cheap business, and it is not always worth running headlong to the store. You just need to not be afraid and try to fix the headphones. with my own hands... And we will tell you how to do this in the article.

So, first of all, let's highlight four main possible problems that arise:

• broken wire near the plug;
• broken wire near the earphone;
• clogging of the channel;
• breakage of the membrane;

One of the most common cases of headphone breakage, especially if the plug is not very secure. There are two types of plugs, 2.5 "and 3.5", but both break with equal success.

To fix such a breakdown, you just need to delve a little into theory and practice for 20 minutes. In theory, everything is simple: we will study the device of the plug and the purpose of the wires that are in the cord.

And besides, of course, there are three wires in the headphone cord, which are also responsible for the left, right and common channels.

• a soldering iron and his friends (tin and rosin);
• stationery knife;
• glue;
• lighter;
• vice;
• shrink cambric.

a) at the first stage, we cut off the plug from the cable slightly above the place where the fracture occurred;

b) using a clerical knife, free the connector from excess plastic (as an option - buy a new connector);

c) we strip the wire by about 2 cm (usually there are three cores in the wire, which correspond to the earphone channels);

d) lottery stage, when you need to guess which wire from which channel. This is usually done simply by trial and error: we connect a pair of wires until sound appears in one of the speakers (the wires in a pair can be changed). After finding a sounding pair, for example, the right one, the remaining wire will refer to the left channel. To determine which of the two wires in the right pair is common, you just need to alternately bring each of them to the left channel: the one that will sound with the left is common. The main thing is not to forget to include some song in the player.

e) the penultimate stage, at which it is necessary to solder the found cores to the corresponding channels. It is advisable to irradiate the ends of the conductors and channels before soldering. We solder the 3rd core to the common channel, the 1st - to the left, the 2nd - to the right. It will be more convenient to do this if the plug is fixed in a vice. Also, do not overheat the plug in order to avoid melting the plastic that is inside the plug.

f) the last stage to protect the adhesion and refine the appearance:

- we make protection against wire breakage from the plug - we glue the nylon thread to the plug that was in the wire;

- we hide the place of soldering and bare wires from prying eyes. To do this, we use a heat-shrinkable cambric: cut the cambric to the required length, put it on the place of the adhesion and gently warm it over the fire. If necessary and for greater protection (ease of use), you can use several cambrics;

- the excess length of the cambric is removed with a clerical knife.

Here's what you should get:

In this case, the method of work is absolutely identical. We cut it off just above the break point, disassemble the headphone cup, determine the correspondence of the channels and cable cores, and perform the soldering. Problems can arise only when disassembling small “droplet” headphones, in which the case can be connected not with latches or screws, as in large monitor ones, but simply glued together. In this case, trying to disassemble the case with a knife should be more careful in order to prevent damage.

This type of malfunction can only be found with earplugs. In them, the auditory canal is separated from the membrane by a very thin metal mesh, which eventually becomes clogged with earwax. The way out of the situation is simple - rinse the mesh with alcohol, but disassembling the earphone again cannot be avoided.

If your track list often contains songs with active crackling or a clear imbalance in the volume of the left and right channels, then most likely the membrane of one of the headphones is damaged. This breakdown can also be corrected by disassembling the earphone and mechanically straightening the membrane. This will not be enough for a long time, but for a while it will return the pleasure from listening to music.

P.S. Well, repaired? If it works, enjoy Michael Nyman - Time Lapse. If not, we try to do everything again and once again enjoy Shocking Blue - Long And Lonesome Road.

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I also had to add that when putting on a cambric, check the headphones for performance. In order not to redo it later. And so the article is not bad. But personally, I did not succeed except for a specific shortening of the cable. So he spat and went and bought new ones for $ 9.

Very good article. My friends and I, quite often faced such problems, and not knowing what to do, we just threw expensive headphones in the trash. And again I need money for new ones, but thanks to this article, I learned how to repair headphones myself (and I don't need to spend money on new ones) Thanks to the author.

My husband's hands are growing out of the right place... He always repairs everything himself and used the method indicated in the article, and came up with a couple of his own. The article is useful, but not for me. I usually give everything to my husband, he will do everything. Everything in the house always works)))

I was very upset when my Schoenheisers started popping. It was a pity for the headphones, but I didn't want to buy such expensive ones again. I searched the Internet for repair instructions and found about the same as described in this article, about a break at the plug. Although I'm not friends with a soldering iron, everything worked out the first time. There would be more such useful articles.

Interesting treatments for torn headphones. And many thanks for the music, especially for the second one. Since I have not experienced any problems with headphones yet, I saved the page to bookmarks, otherwise anything can happen. Thanks to the author for your efforts. More such articles.

This is a really worthy article. Quite recently, I had very comfortable headphones for mobile phone, I thought I'd have to throw it out. But now I will try to fix them myself, because I have a sea of ​​other, unnecessary headphones. Thanks)

Thanks! At first I could not fix it. the wiring was covered with paint, then I set it on fire with a lighter and sealed it, now everything works as before

Useful info but instead of cambric it is better to solder a new plug. will live longer.

I did hot melt + heat shrink, they still walk !!

Thank you very much. I'm only 15 years old and I'm a girl. I took a soldering iron from my dad and made myself old headphones that did not work due to a broken plug. I didn't expect to get it. Damn I'm so happy.