In the course of operation wooden houses Or the bath begins to appear cracks in the bar. This process cannot be prevented, as it is characteristic of wooden buildings.

Why, preferably, close the cracks in the bar

Small cracks on the surface of the tree do not provide negative influence For the operation of the building. Most often they can wear a character decorative element, giving the logs of some individuality. But after all, cracks should not be treated negligently.

If a cracks in a bar They have a width of more than 5 mm and sprawled throughout the log or bruster, it is necessary to take measures to curb their distribution. Why do it?

• Water will get inside the cracks, the moisture of wood will increase and it will begin to rotate.
• Wood cracks are a favorite place for various insect-insects, which, feeding by wood, will put even the most durable logs.

Therefore, when deep cracks are detected, it is necessary to close them immediately.

Prevention of cracks

To prevent the appearance of cracks in the bar, you need to apply a series of measures.

Natural drying logs for a long time. This type of prevention is the most efficient. Uniform drying of wooden fibers is prevented by the appearance of cracks during the operation of the log. Drying logs are produced in the shade, the place should be dry and cool. As a result of drying, the moisture of logs should be at 18-20%.

Compensation (unloading) propyl. The procedure of propyl is produced either in the upper, or at the bottom of the log along its axis, which allows you to remove an excess voltage in wood fibers. As the log drying, the propyl begins to expand, and natural cracks decrease.

Sealing logs from the end. The cuttings of the logs dry out somewhat faster than the other parts of the log. Therefore, most cracks appear on the ends of the logs. To prevent the formation of cracks, it is necessary to block moisture output through the ends of the logs, that is, to impose a sealant. The moisture will stop evaporate from the ends and goes into the outer layers of wood, where its evaporation will pass more evenly. As a sealant, oil paint, varnish, wax solutions, olive and PVA glue are used.

Seeling cracks in a bar:

Prevention measures make it possible to prevent the appearance. large number Cracked, but completely eliminate their education they are unable. You can hide cracks in a bar, prevent the processes of rotting in them by sealing.

Seeling cracks in a bar Possible different ways. Materials for this most often use maps, drying in air, dry mixes, sealants.

Methods for sealing cracks in a bar

The use of sawdust and PVA as a smear. The emerging cracks are filled with self-making on their own, which includes sawdust and PVA. They are mixed to consistency thick sour cream and fill the resulting gap. If after drying the mask slightly opal, then the empty space is reappearing by it.

Putty as an apparer mixture. Acrylic putty apply only for seeding cracks small sizes (no more than 3-4 mm). If the crack is more, then the putty seal is inappropriate - after hardening, it just cracks and falls. Putty for wood waterproof, quickly dry and do not succumb to the action of cold, which is well affected by their durability.

Application acrylic sealants for seeling cracks in a bar. Acrylic-based sealants, produced in syringes, are perfectly suitable for sealing. wooden slots. The sealant layer should not exceed 5 mm, so when embelling deep cracks, the special harness is laid, on top of which the sealant is applied.

Gypsum as an entered material. The cracking of the cracks is carried out by Arbogyps - a mixture of alabaster with sawdust, Sonych of straw, small bark, tyrsa. The mixture is done like this: one part of the gypsum takes 3 pieces of sawdust and diluted with water (2: 1). In order for the composition to become more plastic, it adds a few drops of any shampoo into it and stirred carefully so that the lumps are not formed. The sealing mixture is quickly frozen, so it is necessary to use it immediately after cooking. Arbogils in cracks are layered with a spatula and leave for complete solidification.

Seeling cracks in a bar moss. Large cracks can be legally moss. Dry moss is swollen in water in water for 30 minutes. After time, the water is drained, and excess moisture is pressed. Soft moss twisted rollers and put them in cracks with a wooden blade, pushing deep inside. Then tapping with a hammer so that the roller becomes dense (Moss starts to spring). Drying MCH occurs within 3 days. During this time, its volume increases by 20% and the cracks are carefully cleaned.

The above-described methods of sealing slots can be used both outside and from the inside of the house from the bar. All methods do not harm wood, contribute to the removal of cold bridges and increase the strength of the tree.

Dry profiled timber. Myth or reality?

Question: - Why did you choose exactly such a foundation (material for walls, roof, etc.)

Answer: - A neighbor (girlfriend) suggested (read on the forums

We were probably lucky that dealing with woodworking since 1998, we worked mainly for export. Worked calmly. Sold thousands of m3 lumber and raw, and dry, and planed .... The customer sent us an application formed on the basis of guests, international standards, technical Conditions. ... our business was only to "sharpen" to this technology and execute contracts. We were not interested in the opinion of all sorts of Hans, John and other individuals having a "own" opinion about what the material should be, which he buys. Strange, right? After all, "the buyer is always right" invented not in Russia. We "dragged" from there ... Because of the Bag! And "turned out as always" (c) V. I. Chernomyrdin.

In 2008, when the main export "covered with copper pelvis", we had to switch to the domestic market. And here it began the most interesting. Starting working with network structures, I realized that each wholesale buyer has its own opinion and opinion on the quality of products that he would like to receive. Gosty did not interest anyone. A variety "Extra", "Prima" about which the civilized world did not hear at all, appeared. At the same time, hundreds of cubes were sold raw lining, spool, block house ... and still there are such requests!

We started the production of a profiled bar ....

That is, we went to the final buyer. Drive added \u003d)

It turned out that the builders and their customers do not interest the requirements of guests and SNIPs, which determine the requirements for structures and wood products.

Wood moisture requirements in products Link

So, according to these rules and requirements, the use of wood natural humidity Not allowed at all. Maximum humidity - 25% for elements, "working" in contact with the external environment.

Having proposed on a par with a profiled seam of natural humidity (the buyer is always right) supplies a dry profiled timber, and understanding how the manufacturers of its advantages faced the fact that there is no serious demand for a dry bar!

Having attempted to understand the "Rules of the game" I had to climb on forums, reviews and other "authoritative" tools, where the potential customer forms his view on a dry profiled timber.

And then it became not on my own ...

I bring "hits" found on the pages of one respected resource:

• - Really dry - it is 8-12%. And this in nature does not exist!
• - Everything that the Internet offers is the humidity of a layout of a 16-25% or normal winter
• - Equilibrium humidity for different regions is different as I read. For MSC, it is 16-18% on average. 18-20% of the tropics smacks?
• - I think the bar with humidity over 16% of the material of natural humidity!

For someone "smacks" humidity, which is spelled out for the whole world in specific figuresSomeone considers 16% natural humidity, although this is also a specific legalized indicator. There would be a desire to read the book. But where too.

And after all, it is said authoritatively, they listen to these people. On their background, timid attempts of manufacturers are recognized by the "marketing tricks" and an attempt to "jar of dough" .... And immediately it is proposed to use a natural humidity bar.

Let's try to figure out what is still better dry or raw profiled bar?

I undertake it to say that the case is not at all as a particular bar, but in the number of cash or non-cash money, which a person is ready to spend on the "house of his dreams." Well, or may not be a dream, but just at the desire to build a house.

The glued bar is confused by a significant price, the ecological moments are also embarrassing, so the combination of qualities of the choice is behind the profiled full-fledged timber.

I will say that 90% of people who ordered the timber from the raw massif, sleep and see the house from the glued bar! Also, a man dreaming of a Japanese jeep buys Chinese ... just a personal budget does not allow. There is nothing reprehensible here ... just live in such a world. There are a lot of temptations, and there is not enough money.

The remaining 10% falls on those who can not be reasonably explained why they want a wooden house. Just they want to live in wooden house! And this is the attitude of nothing but respect and understanding me.

I insist that the dry chamber drying bar exists.

Even in the section 200x200. And even with a humidity of 18 +/- 2 percent throughout the thickness. I know manufacturers who are responsible about their work and are responsible for their words.

At the same time, I recognize that the market has suggestions on the "alleged" dry bar. But this is the problem of the consumer who does not know how to control the humidity.

I tried to collect the main arguments "against" a dry profiled timber.

Here they are (the list will be replenished):

• Dry timing chamber drying does not exist.
• This is superfluous, not necessary "Pribluda", "Marketing trick"
• Expensive.
• It makes no sense to dry, wet all the same.
• It will turn out, and he will crack.

I will try to express my opinion on these topics.

Dry timing chamber drying does not exist.

I tried to comment on this thesis in the introductory part of this article. Additionally, I can still say what. We were sent to Finland at one time Bruses of 150x200,200x200 and saw with their own eyes that the Finns were dried. And it was at the beginning of the century. For them, it did not stand the question, it does not happen. They just did him. For routine and meticulous people, there is a simple advice - find technologists who worked in the Soviet Union, and ask the question "Can I dry up a bar". And hear the simple answer "just need to be able to dry."

This is an extra, not necessary "Pribruda", "Marketing trick".

To begin with, I will give a quote:

Drying woodprocessing the evaporation of moisture contained in the wood; One of the varieties of hydrothermal wood processing (See Hydrothermal Wood Processing).

Purpose of S. d. - Reducing the moisture content of wood to the level corresponding to the conditions of operation made of it products, what prevents the change in their size and shape, protects wood from rotting, increases its strength, reduces the mass of products, increases the reliability of adhesive connections and the quality of the finish. (BSE) Link

If you are not interested in moments allocated by bold, and you are ready to reinvent the bike for the sake of God. Nothing to say.

Expensive

Let's consider.

Let the house in which you drove, cost you in 1 million. rub. (This figure is taken for the convenience and clarity of the calculations). This is a house with a roof, windows, doors, floors, ceilings, some kind of communications ... ..

I argue that in terms of investments, the cost of the wall set will not exceed 25% of the total amount. Let's assume that this is a profiled variety of natural humidity. You bought it at 7300 rubles. and spent 250,000 rubles. Having bought a dry profiled bar at a price of 11,000 rubles. You will spend 376712 rubles. That is, the house will cost you at 1 126 712 rubles. By 127,000 rubles. more expensive.

For what - you ask?

• Plus the opportunity to start decoration a year earlier than in a house of a raw bar
• Plus, not looking around to the stove, controlling the heating of a new house
• Plus savings on rent or rent a foreign apartment if you build a house for permanent residence
• Plus, the lack of problems with the cracks "in the thicker's finger".

It makes no sense to dry, wet all the same.

This is the most delusional quotation, which I reread several times and did not believe my eyes. Singing something is useless here. It is enough to go on any forest-trading base to measure the moisture content of any lumber, which has lain at least six months. It is measured to measure and understand that the wood that no one dried artificially dried to a moisture content of 16-20%. With a ram, it will dry longer. It turns out that the wood itself is striving for moisture prescribed in GOST. But this is not interesting to anyone.

It will turn out, and he will crack.

Here I agree. Yes, he can turn out, and he will crack. Another question where will it turn it and will he pull out? In the case of a raw profiled bar, it will happen already within the walls of your home. And you will not have a single chance to prevent anyone claims except yourself. In the case of a dry profiled bar, this will occur in production. Before the process of profiling. Will be rejected. And you will get a ready-made product that you can control both humidity and size. With confidence that in a week you can start the finish. Since the dry bar is going much easier (ask the builders).

And separately I want to say about cracks on the front side.

1. They will be in one and in another case. But the crack crack is retrid. There are cracks on a dry material, where and the toothpick will not fit, but there are bursting cracks, in a finger and more thick. And here should be mentioned about another qualitative period of timber. If you see the core at the end of the bar at a distance of more than 1 cm from the nearest facility of the bar, and if the annual rings on the end are not located symmetrically relative to the vertical axis spent through the middle of the bar, then be sure of the big cracks you are guaranteed. Order those bar, mentioning the magical combination of letters and numbers 2 ex-l
2. In order to avoid cracks for almost 100%, there are only 2 ways - glued timber or trimming of a timber and a block house. And the last ... Damn why a special "pisk" is considered to be aged wood? Why do designers manage to develop wood to earn? But this is a matter of taste ... .. Coherence Conclusions: 1. Dry timber - not fiction.2. If you deceived your neighbor (neighbor) or someone on the forum, it does not mean that they are deceived. Be smarter. After all, not everyone was recorded in mmm 2 times.3. "Do not shoot a pianist. He plays, as can ". With the departure of the USSR in woodworking, a blife was lost and fluffy bluff. Bluff, designed for your illiteracy and budget limited. The main mass does not want to study the original sources, but believes the interpreters of the original sources. But this is at best. At worst, these interpreters consider themselves to the Woodworking Guru. I repeat the example "... I consider the timber with a moisture content of over 16% of the material of natural humidity! ..."
3. There are conscientious manufacturers on the market. They or retained knowledge and experience, or purchased it again. And it is impossible to treat such people without respect and put them in one row with passes that sell the "imported" timber!

I recently received two different letters with the same issues. This situation is: recently (until about a year ago) built a house from a bar. Now the bar appeared cracks to one centimeter wide. And so far only with outside at home. Questions, as usual, two: "Who is to blame and what to do?". Oh yes, I almost forgotten the authors of the first letter subsequently going to warm the house and separate the facade, and the authors of the second letter leave the house from the bar as it is - without any finish.

Text: Nikita Sidorov

Who is guilty?

First, let's deal with together, where are the cracks in the wood? And the reason is simple to disgrace - uneven deformation. Simply put, this happens: when the tree is filled, it is still full of moisture. Then the bar makes the bar and it begins to dry by evaporation of water. It is clear that water is much easier to evaporate from the outer part of the bar, which is blown by the wind and heats up the sun. But from the inside of the bar of the moisture, it is much more difficult to get out, so it takes more time.

When moisture out of wood is moisture, it begins to deform and shrink. And in the outer part of the bar it happens faster than in the inner. Present two circles, one inside, and the other is outside. The one that the outside decreases, and the one that is inside remains the same size. Sooner or later, the outer circle does not withstand and cracks appear on the bar.

I know examples when people did themselves cutting board Fresh wood. She looked great while the new and until the wood was wet. But after a few weeks, a large crack appeared on the board or even a few. Later, it, of course, was thrown out because of such urgentness. But something I distracted ...

It is believed that the timber dries at a speed of about 1 centimeter for five months. That is, if your home is composed of a bar in size 150 * 150, then it will completely dry and stabilize over 6 years. And this means that cracks can appear throughout this time! By the way, the thicker the timber, the stronger there will be a "uneven deformation" and the thicker will be cracks.

What is bad in cracks in a bar? In general, cracks in the bar are a natural and almost inevitable process (the only way to completely avoid them is a drying of a bar in the chamber), so it's not worth much to worry about this. The house because of them does not bother and not swap. But:

1. Cracks in a bar go to Sermenvin. If they are deep, if there are many of them and if they are quite large (more centimeter), it will lead to the fact that the house will be worse to keep warm. It will reduce the comfort of living in such a house.

2. I do not like how the facade of the house covered with thick, long cracks. In my opinion, it is ugly.

What to do?

If you are going to warm up a house from the outside and separate the facade, then you can not do anything with cracks. This makes no sense. All the problems that arise due to these cracks are compensated by insulation and finishing material. Just please do not need to install vapor insulation films between the insulation and the timber!

If you leave the ram as it is, that is, do not inspire and do not finish the facade, then the biggest cracks can be shown who is the main thing here and to close them so that they do not call the eye and did not let the precious warmth from the house. For this, the old good caulkat is suitable. You can also use special sealants and grouts that came up with for these purposes and which can be found in construction stores. Just do not forget that most sealants give shrinkage, so after you make cracks in a bar, go back in a couple of days and check - it may be necessary to take another sealant layer.

Tips Masters

Preventive

To oil paint When stored did not fall and so that the film was not formed on it, put on the surface of the paint of the KRU LOCK made of thick paper and "fill it with a thin layer of olifa.

" Polyethylene film, shelter balcony or greenhouse, preydates from the cliff with the wind of the BECHEV, stretched on both sides with about between 10-15 cm. "

"To work with concrete mixture It was easier, it is usually added to clay, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoon in it washing powder At the rate of water bucket. "

"In order for the screw whose head is hidden behind the obstacle, did not rotate along with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of the thread or thin wire on it and slightly pull the ends. Due to the friction, the screw is well held on the spot. The ends of the thread on the fracture layer can be trimmed."

"Cut the tweeter pilot can be without coofer. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut off by a chisel or an ax of a semi-permanent size of the required size, after which again connect the halves."

Wooden tubes for screws are scattered and falling out of the village. Do not rush cut a new plug. Tightly pick up in the wall of the Kapron from the old stocking. Heated brass-resistant suitable diameter Flow hole for a screw. The ravine Capron will turn into a solid cork.

"A carpentry level is not difficult to turn into a theodolite, providing it with a sighting device from a slot and flies."

"In order for two lanes of the linoleum to lay jack, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film by putting it, under the basis of whether the noleum."

"So that the nail walked into right direction and not bent when scaby in deep hole Or the groove, it should be placed inside the tube, fixing with mint paper or plasticine. "

Before driving a hole in concrete WallFix down a piece of paper just below. Dust and fragments of concrete will not fly around the room.

"To cut off the pipe exactly at a right angle, we advise you to drink it. Take a smooth paper strip and screw it onto the pipe along the dipping line. The plane passing through the chrome paper will be strictly perpendicular to the pipe axis."

"Turn the logs or wooden beams It will help uncomplicated with the absence of a segment of a motorcycle or cycling chain, to a hook-cramped with a hook on one side and fixed to the late Tom from the other side. "

"In order for one one to work in two-handed saw, we advise you to use a simple reception: rearrange the saw handle from the top position to the bottom."

Cut the slate piece of the required size can be saw, but it is better to pierce the hole with a frequency of 2-3 cm on the line of the alleged section of the nail with a frequency of 2-3 cm, after which the slate is broken on the support.

" The best way Glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt and drop only four drops in the corners of the tile. Prodes on the dead. "

The shaped holes in the manufacture of curly window cages are the most convenient to drink with a shovel with a sharpeble web.

"Production of stained glass - it's a long and difficult. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. For this, it takes thin specks or rods of the vine, stick to the glass sheet, and then paint the glass and covered with varnish."

"If there was no dowel at hand, it can be made of a piece of plastic tube. For this, the body of the shares of the punched knob can be approaching. Scuffing a piece of the desired length, make a long cancer, approximately half, and a dowel is ready."

"It is known how difficult it is to hang the door, working alone. But it is enough to shorten the lower pin for 2-3 mm and will work much easier."

"Very durable, awesome and sufficient waterproof putty turns out of the bustilat, mixed with any powder - scrap, plaster, cement!, Sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw in the ends of the chipboard screw, drill the hole slightly less than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with the" moment "with the glue (only not epoxy!), In a day, screw the screw. The plate is not resolve. However, the resulting connection can be installed only through the load. day. "

"Fix portraits, photos, paintings in wooden frames With glass it is more convenient not carnations, but with the help of stationery CNO, bent at right angles. The buttons are softly pressing the screw. Compared to nails, the danger split the thin framework is reduced to a minimum. "

"Wrap a screw in solid wood species is not so simple. If a chill is a screw for a screw for a screw, and it's screwed to rub it with soap, then after such an operation, work will go like oil."

In order to save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife, without unfolding the roll. To do this, it is necessary to pre-align the ends of the roll and simple pencil Cut outside the edge boundary. Working a knife, the roll must be gradually rotated in the coagulation direction.

For carrying at home large sheets Plywood, La or thin iron stack conveniently use the wire with a telem with three hooks at the bottom and handle at the top.

If you want to cut into the distance in the distance of a round stick, this work is easy to perform it with a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is selected so that the template slides freely on the stick.

It will be better to work with a hacksaw, if in the middle part of it, the height of the teeth is in the middle part of it.

If the front part of the machine is an arctic saw to attach the weight by weight of about a kilogram, then it will be easier to work. Cargo need to be removed, so that the saw can be broken and other works.

"The coating resembling wax can be obtained, painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To get needed color, You need to make glue with water, tinted watercolor. "

"Make a cover on the blade toporas - easier Simple. A piece of rubber tube is taken, it is cut along and put on the blade. From scabbing it protects the ring carved from the old auto mobile chamber. "

"Get without clamp when gluing wooden Ram. It will help the liner cord. You should wear four short loops on the corners of the frame and two long strut the frames diagonally. Corners are registered with sticks that curb medium loops. "

"How to make silence a violin floor? Between the flooring you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45 ° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, to score a wooden pin in it, lubricated with joinery glue, Cre on a chisel protruding end and sharp the surface of the floor."

"To facilitate the flooring of the floor covered with varnish or paint, swallow it with an iron through a wet cloth - and work one hundred is no easier."

"A small rotation on wood can be eliminated so: the affected wood is removed from a healthy layer, and then peeped with a 10 percent solution of formalin. After drying, the area is covered and painted."

" Door hinges Will not scrip if they are lubricant in time - this is a long-known rule. But you can do without lubrication. To do this, make a puck of plastic plug and put it on a hinge pin. "

Hello, our dear readers. Owners of own wooden houses and those of you who only plans to build them. Today we will talk about such a well-known problem as cracking lumber.

After all, there are no more sadness than to observe the appearance of all new and new gaps on the walls of yours, not even really obsolete housing, in the construction of which, by the way, was invested the mass of nerves, works and funds.

So the question arises: what can be done so that the bar does not crack, what and how to process it? But is it correctly formulated? And is it really really preserved wood facade Property view, using only impregnation and grazing?

Why is the bar cracks?

Before you protect and keep something, it is necessary to figure out the mechanisms of the problem, or all your actions, even if there are qualitative materials will never be effective.

So, the reason for the cracking of the wood "buried" in its uneven sweep. It's no secret that after the loss of moisture, the bar marks noticeably in the amount. This is the whole problem.

It is logical that the upper layers of the tree are dry faster, decrease in volume, and the core, which is deeper, and therefore dries slower, does not sleep at such a pace.

As a result, the tree (the very top layers) due to the impossibility will stretch, cracks. Moreover, than not evenly, the destruction will pass, the deeper and the gaps will be numerous.

Especially problem Most In this regard, the ends of the bar are. On the plane of the slice, along the fibers, the tree loses moisture even faster, which means it is still more cracking.

Ideally, wood should be filled uniformly and very slowly, in order not to have unnecessary stresses in it, and all the layers were lost in an equal interest ratio as a homogeneous product.

But, unfortunately, it does not guarantee the integrity of the material. The fact is that creating perfect conditions for lumber, it is possible only at the stage of its preparation. It is done in special drying chambers, using vacuum and microwave technologies.

But the joke is that the tree has a property of absorbing moisture from the ambient air, to accumulate it, and when changing weather conditions, it becomes rebelled by the above-described scheme, that is, unevenly.

And this process is endless. You will not build an owl house in drying chamber. A. fresh air He will quickly find a reason to give cracks.

How to extend the shelf life of the house from the bar?

Knowing about the upcoming problem even before the start of construction, it is thorough to prepare for it and significantly extend the life of your future home. Believe me, for the centuries-old story of the construction of log cabins, the masters found not one way to deceive nature.

Calibration

Everything in this world moves along the path of least resistance, so most of the cracks appear on the verge of a bar from which the material is closer to the core. But what does it give us?

Actually a lot. If we take into account this fact when building a house, and hide the problem planes inside or between the crowns, the facade will remain no longer without defects, and the cracks themselves will be insignificant when they appear.

Of course, all this is applicable to an ordinary non profiled bar. Already created by the manufacturer of a comb, will not give you no freedom for maneuver.

Compensatory propyl

But you agree, in the realities of mass production, monitor the fibers rather troublesome. It will greatly reduce the speed of work, which means it will increase the cost of the finished product, as a result will reduce its competitiveness. Although if there were no other choice, so would come. Calibrated logs manually, made a mark for the front side, just why?

The problem can be easily solved with compensatory seam. And really, why allow the emergence of natural gaps when you can make a neat civilized propyl?

Through it and moisture will leave the tree more evenly, and there will be no cracks. Craw just a little sorted by stirre and all business. Of course, such a trick will be well noticeable in open ends and even such technical cracks will have to be caught, but it is better how the tree itself will crack, where he swallows.

Impact

That's how gradually we reached the construction impregnation. Along with antiseptics and antipirens there are such compositions that they slow down the process of evaporation of moisture.

And here the keyword is "slowed down" if you fully make the surface of the tree with a steamproof, it is elementary starts to rot. But with a slow evaporation, located in the core of moisture gets time to climb to the surface, and therefore the tree dries much evenly.

In particular, often like paints and impregnations open the ends and joints of the bar, and it is not at all due to cracks. Having the opportunity to remove moisture along the fibers, the sawn timber to its edges gives a more significant shrinkage than in the midst, and this leads to the emergence of interventic cracks that are so famous in the wooden house corners.

But everywhere there are advantages and disadvantages. Colorless expensive impregnations to many not by pocket, and in its composition, the solutions are not chib to be natural. Cheap are not so effective, they are far from wood and are often complex in use.

Confused?

Then let's talk about them a little more.

Than process bar

Now, when we know where our feet have grown from our problem, and how it can be solved, let's see, what can you really handle the ends of the timber in order not to crack.

Lime

Lime is a cheap natural antiseptic, but few people know that it protects the wood from the solar ultraviolet well and prevents her uneven drying.

However, do not hurry to take the maclock. First, the lime is very quickly washed off, and secondly, it has not the most pleasant color.

Would you like your ends beautiful sruba, Beleli from divorces? Agree, this defense is in the most extreme case.

Paint

You can also protect ends and any breathable paint. Today they are on sale at least debugs. But, again, the wood texture will be lost, but also the capillary in the bars is murdered completely. Fact - There is a fact, if we open the pre-passed chamber drying wood of good paint, the probability of its cracking will be minimized.

Another thing is that supplied on lKM market They will not be treated in their value of a specially designed impregnation, and most often cost it more expensive, so the point then to reinvent the bike?

Wax

Another means, given to us inheritance from the ancestors - is beeswax. The ends sealed for them remain transparent for steam exchange, but not for moisture. Plus, this material has natural origin100% safe for human livelihoods and tested by time.

Another thing is that it is extremely uncomfortable to work with such a product, it requires constant warming up, and even makes a tree more susceptible to fire.

True, today manufacturers, finalized the idea of \u200b\u200bthe ancestors and created on the basis of wax comfortable for the work of mastic, which in addition to the above described properties improve mechanical properties Wood and give her a beautiful silky shine. The problem is only in price. Not every budget allows you to purchase such a miracle.

Polymer impregnations

On a row with natural, there are also polymer impregnations. The same "Sezheng Tor", "neomidor Plus" or "Botot" from the trademark of Rogunda. These compositions are pure chemistry.

But they are perfectly coping with their task, relatively cheap, easy to use and colorless. If you need wood texture In its pure form, without polymer can not do.

Only adherents of the "green" housing will remain unhappy here. And it is logical. Meaning to build out natural materials House, then to impregnate it with chemistry?

In a word, how to care for your log cabin and what impregnation or mastics for this choose the owner's personal matter. It is enough to know that there is a selection today and cracking, which many perceived as a sentence, it is quite realistic to avoid, well, or at least minimize it.

On this we say goodbye to you. Goodbye to the ambulance on the pages of the site about the cottage.