Oil heater does not turn on what to do. Electrical circuit diagram of oil heater. The radiator is overly heated or heats

Many breakdowns of heating devices can be eliminated independently, which will be very cheap.

The structure of the radiator

Conduct that broke, it is possible when it knows its structure. It is:

Metal hermetic capacity in the form of a battery or accordion. In the middle of it is technical oil. It fills in 90% of the tank. The rest is air. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of oil as a result of heating. If all the inner space of the radiator would be filled with oil, then the container would simply be broken.
TEN. It is in the middle of the main part of the radiator. It is always mounted at the bottom of the tank. It warms the oil. During heating, the oil circulates along the radiator. Most manufacturers are mounted double tang. He has two spirals. Ten is fixed in such a way that all its contacts are on outside tank. It can be built-in or removable.
Thermal stitch. It is located near the Tan above the heating element. The task of the fuse is to measure the temperature of the oil and in case it has become critical, or the oil has flowed down (then the case is heated), turn off the TEN. He is auxiliary element Safety, so very rarely interferes with the operation of the device. There are two types: bimetallic and wire. The first is more reliable.
. It can be found at the top of the heater. It is intended to regulate the heating of the radiator. The main part of this element is a bimetallic plate - is in heated air and reacts to changes in its temperature. There are usually ventilation holes above it. The same is the bottom of the casing, which is attached to the main metal container.
Two switches. Each of them is connected by phase, zero and grounding wires that depart from Tan. Each of them is suitable wire from the thermal relay. Near the switches there is a light bulb, which when working by the Tan is glowing.

Collapse of the oil radiator

Always begins with this procedure, because electrical elements are under the protective casingwhich is attached to one end of the heater. Moreover, the manufacturer attached it so that it seems as if he and the case are one of the whole.

Basic breakdowns

Burning, contact contamination.
Fault fork.
The failure of the thermal stitch.
Deformation of the bimetallic plate.
Breakfast.
The failure of the fall sensor or position.
Oil leak.

Elimination of the most simple breakdowns

These breakdowns are oxidation, relaxation of contacts, failure.

After parsing the radiator, you need to check each wire. This is done using a multimeter or tester. First check the condition of the fork. To do this, one end of the tester terminal is applied to one end. The second tester terminal must be applied to the compound of the thermostat and the wires departing from the fork.

Sometimes there may be an additional connection to the power cable. It is done immediately after the cable entry into the case. Next, the joints are deployed to the thermostar and the Tan. The second tester terminal must be applied to each wire in such a connection. Check both exits forks.

If the tester did not give the signal with an alternate application of the second tester terminal by the end of the input phase and zero wire, I am faulty is fork. Its necessary replace.

After that, the tester checks all other wires. One of his terminal is always applied to fork. Other concern all terminals. The sequence of verification is as follows:

contacts of the thermostat;
contacts of the thermal stitch;
contacts of the regulator of the operation of the TEN;
contacts of Tan.

During inspection, the thermorel must be in this position in which the TEN will work. It is exhibited at a temperature that is more available.

If there is no tester signal when checking the output contact of the thermorel, then possible is bad contact or a thermostile broke, or rather bimetallic plate. First pay attention to contact. The wire terminal is pulled out and check. If it is clean, no oxides or soot, then it is good, and the problem is based on the fastening of the terminal or the thermal. If the terminal has listed flaws, then it must be cleaned. In extreme cases, it is replaced by a new one.

Visually you can check all contacts. If the terminals are clean, without damage, then the problem is not in them. Some of the contacts can be weakened. Then they cheer them or more flatten the base in which the terminal is inserted.

See also: Characteristics and manufacture of oil heater

Repair of the thermaller and the thermal stuff

This process is replacement of bimetallic plateor the whole element. The bimetallic plate must be replaced when it is strongly deformed, and any position of the wheels of the relay does not closame contact.

The bimetallic plate is changed like this:

Exhibit the smallest heating temperature.
Remove the knob of the regulator.
Get out nuts, dismantle the frame.
Remove the bimetallic plate, put a new one in her place.
Collect the regulator.
Check the correctness of the plate operation. For this you need rotate the knob of the regulator by changing the position of the plate and exposing a certain level of temperature.. Next, heated with a plate with a hairdryer or a fan heater to an exhibited temperature level. If it is strung and the contact is disconnected, then it is installed well. In the reverse case, the replacement is incorrect. It is necessary to solve the complexity, weakening the pressure plate on the contact, which corresponds to the smallest heating temperature.

Plate exhibition B. right position - Long procces. It's easier to buy a new thermostat.

Similar actions are performed with a broken thermal protection.

Liquidation of oil leakage

The tightness disorders of the main part of the radiator and oil leakage is the most frequent problem of these heaters. Oil can flow through a random hole or wall that rusted. If the second option takes place, it is better to purchase another radiator, because corrosion can destroy a large area than seen. therefore after some time, the oil flows near the boiled or sealed place.

Sleeping or small holes, cracks can be:

solder;
brew

First option should be avoided. The soldering cannot provide a reliable compound, and with constant heating / cooling, durable contact of the solder and metal of the tank will begin to turn into a crack. Therefore, it is better to brew hole.

Preparing the heater to soldering or welding is the same:

The descent of the oil from the tank.
Cleaning problem space From dirt and rust. It can be done emery paper.
Pouring water into the tank. This will avoid possible ignition (inside there was oil, and its residues are accurately preserved).
Turning the radiator into such a position in which the water will not flow out of the holes.

Your heater served you not one year and suddenly stopped working. Do not be upset and run to the store for a new purchase. You can try to return the heater to life yourself. How to repair the oil heater with your own hands so that it is not yet one year faithfully heated you in the most severe frosts?

Principle of operation of the device

The device itself can be compared with a conventional incandescent spiral, which is parallel to wire with a power switch. Power switch is a thermostat or thermostat.

In the thermostat, a very soft transition from one resistance value to another is performed. Its main task is to maintain the established temperature mode. As a result of heating the thermostat plate, the contact is disconnected.

The relay fault that maintains the temperature mode. Elimination - replacement.
The switch - the thermostat broke. Elimination - replacement.
The thermoregulator contacts were oxidized. Troubleshooting - Clean oxidized contacts.
Malfunction of electrical cord or socket.
Bad contact or its complete absence between the outlet and fork.

How to determine the cause?

In order to repair the heater, you must first find out what exactly in it failed. Start with the simplest, but at the same time of the main element of electricity. First check if your socket works. It happens that when the non-working heater is disassembled, and the whole thing was in the outlet.

Next, go to the inspection of the cord itself. Check if there are damage and fractures on it. In such places, there may be disconnected wires. Repairs oil heaters It must begin with checking the wire not only outside, but also from the inside. Perhaps weakened the connection in the power supply unit, which connects the power cord directly to it.

If you do not find any damage outside, you need to see possible malfunctions In the power supply itself. To do this, remove the power supply panel cover, then remove the washers and thoroughly inspect. Especially the connection of the wire with the power supply terminals.

Nagar if was, patched, the wire was squeezed, the screws twisted. Now wear the power supply cover in place and twist the screws. Before turning on the device into the outlet, make sure that the possibility of the appearance of a short circuit is excluded, for this use an ohmmeter.

Try turning on the device to the network. If it works, you can be congratulated with the fact that repairs are over. If the oil heating device still does not work, then repair work will have to continue.

Temoregulator

If they are black, it means that a short circuit happened, the device can be reanimated by exposing the contacts with sandpaper to shine. After cleansing for a more effective result, contacts are better to wipe with alcohol.

How to repair the heater in case of suspicion of breakdown of the bimetallic plate? The bimetallic plate is located in the same thermostat. Therefore, you first need to disassemble the thermostat, and then get the plate. In such a situation, the repair is only one full replacement bimetallic plate.

Safety

Causes of breakdowns can be the most diverse, but they are connected with the electrics. Therefore, it is imperative to follow the safety regulations while working with the device. In no case cannot include the instrument in the network with an unclosed cap of the power supply of the heater.

It is not allowed to start disassembling the device that is not turned off from the network. It is better to make sure that the device is in the off state. If during the operation of the heater you felt nasty smell Gary, immediately turn off the device. Explore the reasons that led to breakage, start only after the complete cooling of the device.

In order for the oil heater to serve you faithfully not one year, it is important not just to choose the device model correctly, but also to operate it correctly. In this case, you will not have to independently deal with the reason for the rest of the device, as well as you save yourself and from the new waste of money caused by the purchase of a new device.

Operating conditions

Oil heater care primarily is to properly operate compliance with all rules and conditions.

During operation, the surface of oil heaters can very much warm up, about 100 degrees. If there is no special protective screen, you can easily get the strongest burn. Often there is a big temptation to hang dry on the device wet linen, rightly believing that it will dry by the moment. Of course, it can dry, but also lead to breakage of the device can also. Haved dried wet underwear does not give the opportunity to give the body indoors, so it cannot be cooled. Because of this, in turn begin to overheat its internal components. As a result, breakdown. If you so want to use a drying heater, buy a special device that is attached to the device from above and can lay wet underwear without prejudice to the device.
It is advisable to quickly wipe the heater from the dust accumulating on it. This also saves the device from overheating and increases its thermal return. In addition, the dust burning on the heater can cause an unpleasant odor.
You can not install the device in wet rooms. Oil radiators are not provided for use in bathrooms or shower. Most perfect place For such devices, these are spacious dry rooms.
It is undesirable to use oil radiators in small rooms. True worse from this becomes the owners of the device. On the small square The device simply cannot function correctly. Therefore, very often in the premises there is a shortage of oxygen and too dry air.

The oil heater should work only in a vertical position. Even his storage in the summer, when there is no need to use additional sources Heat, should occur only vertically. If it turned out that the device for a long time Led in a horizontal position, let it stand in front of the turn on. It is necessary that the oil is completely glass down, and the heating elements did not overheat due to the disadvantage of the heat of the conductor.
It is not recommended to use adapters to connect the radiator. So usually happens when the socket in the room has no euro connector. If such a need arose, it is better to buy a really high-quality reliable conductor. Most often you can meet in stores cheap options. When the device is connected with their help, the contact is not complete. As a result, the device turns on, then it turns off. It is not good for the heater it will not end, he can simply burn.

As can be seen in order for the oil heater well and worked for a long time, no super-secretion is required. Prevention in the process of operation of the device will only benefit. Correct care It is capable of increasing the service life of the device.

Another important moment: Never leave the radiator turned on by leaving the house and do not have it close soft furniture or curtains. In general, the only one that can easily light up. Moreover, it is no longer necessary to put the device in close proximity to your own bed, because about it you can just forget and get completely unpleasant feelings from the morning.

1 device device

2 Repair the heater

3 Repair of the tank

4 Conclusion on the topic

Oil radiator - very reliable heating device. It works for years without creating unnecessary problems to his owner. But time comes, and even he begins to fail. Someone just gets rid of it, someone carries a workshop, and someone tries to repair the oil heater with their own hands.

How difficult is this process? Let's figure it out together.

Device device

Oil radiator WATT WOH-80

The components of the oil heater are:

The sealed housing in the form of a harmonica consisting of two boiled panels. Inside, the oil oil is injected, and in almost all models the air remains in small quantities. But this device does not harm, because the oil in contact with air does not create conditions for corrosion. If there was water instead, the probability of breaking metal structures It would be very high.

At the bottom side of the device inserted a TEN. It is with its help that the oil and the radiator itself is heated.

A control and safety unit is installed next to the heating element. The main and important item is a thermostat with a fuse. The first is responsible for installing the necessary temperature mode, and the second - for the safety of operation. If for any reason, the oil will begin to flow from the housing, the fuse will work and stop the flow of electricity to the TEN.

Today manufacturers use disposable wire-type fuses or reusable - bimetallic in the form of tablets. As for the control relay, in oil heaters, they are similar to an electric kettle, and not with irons. In the design of the relay hangs in the air, without touching the body of the device.

Each device has two switches. Every three wires are suitable for each - phase, zero from the Tan and the wire from the heat relay. Three wires are needed to work the highlighting of the switches.

The electrical circuit of the oil heater is almost the same as in iron, electric ketties and other heating devices. It is simple and right. Usually, all these heaters are installed two tannes, and when both are turned on at once, electricity consumption increases greatly. But at the same time, the time to achieve the working temperature regime increases. If the temperature in the rooms is low, then even at two lanes turned on the device can work without disconnecting.

Metal case, which closes the power supply and safety unit, has ventilation gaps - top and bottom. If you close them, then the device does not suffer from this, but it will work with difficulty. It will turn off faster, and it turns on it soon. Therefore, it is recommended not to hang on the radiator things for drying. If this happened, then try not to close the ventilation gaps.

We repair the heater

The appearance of the heater creates a feeling that it is one whole, that is, the electric unit and the case are connected by rolling. But it is only visibility. Pay attention to the inscription "Do not cover" - there are several screws under it, with which the cover is kept on the housing. They must be unscrewed, but the cover does not disconnect, because the spring is installed in its lower part, which holds it. Just remove it and remove the lid.

Now pay attention to the TEN. It is tight and hermetically spangled. Manufacturers did it intentionally, so that curious there did not come. These tubular heating elements serve for decades, so there is no point in touching them. If one of them fails, it is better to purchase a new oil heater. No one can repaired such a breakdown. To do this, you will have to replace the elements, but at home and even in some workshops fought Ten again into the body with 100% tightness it is impossible. The result is constantly leaking oil, which can lead to great trouble.

But to wipe the alcohol elements of the connection maybe each. All of them are made in the form of terminals, so disconnect, wipe and connect them back will not be a big problem. It is important not to confuse anything, installing the wire to a certain terminal.

The same applies to replacing the parts of the power supply and safety. With your own hands to repair any of them will be difficult. And if in this matter you are not a specialist, then it is unlikely to succeed. Therefore, the output is one to change the elements failed to new. They all hold on the screws or brackets, so it will be not so difficult to remove them. Again, we remind that the main task is not to confuse the connection wires. After all electrical circuit radiator is the basis of its correct and efficient work.

Tank repair

Oil heater Forte EW-RD

First fuses oil. Pay attention to its variety. The fact is that when repairing the oil heater housing, some of the oil will turn out, and it will have to be filled. In this case, mineral oil with synthetic cannot be mixed. Its volume should be so that inside the case remains air bag. It is necessary to expand the oil.

Usually the metal radiator body is welded or soldered. The first option is preferable. But not everyone house master It has such an opportunity, so many choose a soldering. Note that when soldering oil radiator It is necessary to use silver, brass or copper-phosphoric solder. Tin it is impossible to use. Be sure to have a burner. In the process of soldering in the tank poured water. After completion of the work, the case is necessarily dried.

In the renovated tank, the oil is not filled in normal form. It must be evaporated at a temperature of + 90s. Above the temperature is not recommended, because the oil will begin to oxide.

Sometimes small holes in the housing close up threaded compound. The method of repair is not very reliable, but as a temporary option forbid. It is important to conduct a well sealing of a joint. In the process of a reusable cycle - heating and cooling - any sealant will begin to crack, so that the omit is not avoided.

Tan repair in heater

As for the replacement of the Tan with their own hands, this heating element is selected by power. And if you still decided to change it yourself, you will have to sweat. Decommission will be not so difficult, but to make the rolling anew - this is a big problem. Some models of oil heaters are equipped with tanks removable, which facilitates their repair. But even in this case, it is necessary to pay a lot of time and attention of the case of the case and the Tan. Any gaskets and sealants will last long, and the likelihood that you will return to repair work, very high.

Hello everyone! The next electrical device, the repair of which we will look at it is an electrical heater. Indoor electrical heaters are diverse in appearance and design, so the repair of electrical heaters has its own characteristics for each type. There are three types of room electrical heaters:, convection and radiation.

In radiation heaters, heat is produced due to electric currentpassing through a wire with high resistivity. The current up to Krasnaya glows open wire. The wire is sometimes wound on ceramic tubes, sometimes placed in a quartz tube. Such heaters are called more infrared heaters. The heating capacity in them is regulated mainly various combinations available heating elements. They are supplied with metal reflectors, which reflect warmly, as a light reflector in a car headache or flashlight.

In convection heaters, the heating elements are installed inside the metal body of the instrument and they can only be viewed through the holes at the top of the device and below. In such heaters, there is no reflector nor moving parts. Heated air rises up due to convection and goes through ventilation lattice At the top of the device. In such heaters, the heating element is performed in open video On saliva or ceramic holders. They mainly have a power regulator in the form of a step or smooth adjustment.

Fan heaters ( heat guns, fan heaters) are now very widespread. They are small in size, but are very effective and capable of heating large amounts of air indoors. In such heaters, the air is absorbed by the fan and passes through the spiral and it turns out the outside heated. They also have adjusting the power of heating and airflow speed. There are addition to the thermostat and thermal protection against overheating. The scheme of their work is similar to the work of the hair dryer. Additionally, some models are manufactured with a heater rotation mechanism from side to side to heat as much space as possible.

When operating different types Electric heaters, they gradually pollute and the need for their cleaning. Before starting cleaning the electrical heater, turn it off from the network by removing the plug from the socket and let it cool completely.

This type of electrical heaters does not require a lot in terms of cleaning. The main thing is to keep clean the heat reflector. For cleaning, remove the protective grille by unscrewing several screws. Take a little wet fabric and wipe the reflector, and then wipe dry with a clean napkin.

Cleaning convection heaters

In that heater, check the lower ventilation holes regularly and when they are contaminated with dust carefully remove it with a vacuum cleaner or brushes.

Cleaning fan heaters

Wipe the heater housing from the heat-resistant plastic with a wet fabric. Avoid moisture from entering the device.

Faults of electrical heaters and their elimination

When a heater breakdown, you need to disassemble it for its repair. Before disassembling the heater, do not forget to turn off its plug from the network. The housing and its panels are attached mainly by self-drawing. This refers to radiation and convection heaters. The body of the fan heater consists of two halves, attached to each other with screws. To unscrew the screws, sometimes a special screwdriver is needed. Often the screws are different length, Therefore, remember or better sketch their position. By rejuving all the screws, put the fan heater on the table and carefully remove the upper or lower half from it. Try to remember the internal location of the elements or sketch. Now consider the main faults of heaters, their causes and a way to eliminate.

No temperature is adjusted.

1. The thermostat is set to maximum temperature . By installing the thermostat handle to the maximum, achieve an offensive in the room of comfortable conditions, then turn the thermostat handle towards a smaller temperature until the fan is screwed and off. After that, your heater will turn on and disconnect to maintain the set temperature.

2. The thermostat is set at a minimum temperature. At the same time, many heaters do not turn on due to the fact that the temperature is above the thermostat setpoint. This does not mean breakdowns. To do this, twist a handle towards the temperature increase.

3. Faulty thermostat. In this case, the thermostat will not turn on and will not turn off the heating. To check the thermostat, disconnect the heater from the network, disassemble it and find the thermostat. Remove one tip with a wire from one to the thermostat. By touching the tester, and rotating the thermostat handle. Start with the minimum position, gradually rotate the handle until clicking. In this case, the tester should show the chain closure. If, with this test, the tester shows a constantly closed circuit or open, which means the thermostat is faulty and requires replacement. If it is faulty, remove the handle from it. Remove the fastening screws to remove the thermostat. Pull out it and install back the same new one.

In the fan heater, the thermostat is checked in the same way, but it is desirable to remove it to check it. To do this, disassemble the case, place the thermostat handle to the minimum temperature and remove the handle from it. Remove the thermostat from the device so that you can remove the wires from it. Spend the same check as described above.

If protection against overheating is faulty in the heater, it will not turn off the device from the network when it is heated to a critical high temperature and overheating it. Thermal protection is mostly performed together with a heating element, so often such a replacement is unprofitable. Such a malfunction may occur, as the inconction of some heating elements of the heater in such heaters, the switch is made with a multi-contact and its connection scheme is more complex. To check it, use the tester, pre-sketching and disconnecting the wires with the tips from it.

In more simple radiation heaters, the heating element is included in the network immediately after the instrument is turned on. The second element is introduced into operation using simple switch. Check and replace such a switch will not be much difficulty. If the check shows that it is in good condition, then the heating element may not be corrected.

The heating element does not heat up

1. The thermostat is set at a minimum temperature.

2. Worked for overheating protection. To check, wait until the device cools. He must then turn on. Some thermal stations need to be included in manual. This should be described in the heater service book.

Protection can also work for the reason that the convection openings of the heater are blocked by an extraneous object (for example, dust, Puph, etc.).

3. Faulty heating element.

To check the health of the heater heating element, disassemble it, remove the protective grille, which closes the heater. Loosen the fastening nuts from two ends of the rod heating elements and pull them out of the holders. Put the heating element on the table and attach the probe tester to the element contacts. If the multimeter does not show the presence of a chain, then the heater is unsuitable and need to be installed. Heating elements of other types of heaters are checked in the same way.

4. Bad contact.

Disassemble the heater body and carefully inspect all contact connections. If there are contact with overheating, then definitely replace them or tighten them.

There may be broken tips. All this often happens as a result of a negligent relationship to the domestic instrument.

The heater warms, but there is no air flow

This malfunction refers to fan and convection heaters.

1. Fan holes are blocked.

Make sure there is nothing on the way out of the heated air from the heater housing. It can be dust, fluff, etc.

2. Does not rotate the fan.

This may be caused by the fact that the blade wheel rotates slowly or something interferes with it. To check, disconnect the heater from the network, disassemble its housing and remove the impeller from the axis of the electric motor. Remove all accumulated dust, dirt from the electric motor bearing area. I recommend immediately lubricating the bearing butter while the impeller is removed. This will extend the life of the bearing. Lubricate the other electric motor bearing.

3. The electric motor is faulty.

Check the electric motor for service. To do this, check the multimeter electrical resistance to its winding. If the windings do not call, it means it has a break of the windings and its replacement or rewind is required.

4. Bad electric contact in the circuit of the electric motor.

5. Faulty switch.

Heater does not work at all

1. No power. Check the voltage voltage in the network outlet. It is possible on the shield, a protective automatic machine was turned off or burned cork.

2. The heater is not included in the outlet. Check if the plug is well inserted into the socket and is it inserted if it is inserted.

3. The fuse in the fork has blocked. If the plug is equipped with a fuse, disassemble it and check the fuse tester.

4. The plug is incorrectly connected.

5. Open in the power cord.

6. Faulty heating elements.

7. Faulty switch.

8. Faulty thermostat. See the check above.

9. Worked for overheating protection.

10. Bad contact in the electrical installation of the heater.

Noise when operating a fan heater

1. Dust accumulated and fluff in the fan. Clean the fan from pollution.

2. The electric motor bearings are not lubricated. Disassemble the heater, lubricate all the bearings with a small amount of oil. If the noise does not disappear, then the bearings require replacement.

Here we are with you and reviewed the repair of electrical heaters with their own hands.

Oil heaters are considered the most reliable, durable and durable devices, but they may need to be repaired.

When it comes to additional heating of the room, the oil heaters are considered the most reliable, durable and durable devices for this. However, they can eventually fail. Then the question arises whether it is worth repairing oil heaters with their own hands, or it is better to seek help to professionals. There is another option - just get rid of a faulty unit. Let's find out how to actually fix the device, and whether it is worth spending energy, time and material means.

How to repair the oil heater

Internal organization Designs
Repair of the heater from A to Z

Why the heater does not work

If you compare the non-working heater with a fallen person, then first it is important to put the correct diagnosis. Just finding out the cause of the breakdown, you will understand how to fix the device, returning it to work.

The most common causes of breakage can be divided into several categories:

after switching on, the device makes crackling. This sound does not mean that the household device is faulty. Most likely, oil inside the device gradually warms up. In addition, the cause of the cod can be a recent drop in the heating device. To solve this problem, you need to set the heater to the horizontal surface without slope;
the heater does not turn on. First, pay attention to the outlet and, if it is proper, focus on the wiring of the heater itself. Most likely, the contact somewhere moved: either inside the cord or in fork;
the heater is turned on, but does not warm. That is, visually, the radiator seems better - it burns light bulbs and the fan noise is heard - but it does not produce heat. This suggests that the terrier broke. With this repair, the home master can well handle independently;
the heater does not heat up. Another probable cause of a malfunction can be the failure of the heating element (TEN).

Interior design design

When you were slightly oriented in probable causes of a breakdown of a heater filled with oil, it's time to get acquainted with his design.

Standard modern oil radiator consists of the following items:

sealed housing. It is made in the form of a harmonica, which consists of two panels cooked with each other. Mineral (technical) oil is injected inside. Practically in each heater model inside the tank with butter there are some air - it is prerequisiteSince when heated oil expands, increasing in volume. Note that this circumstance can not harm the instrument by proving corrosion;
Ten. This device is responsible for heating the oil, and therefore the device itself;
security and control unit. The main element is a thermostat equipped with a fuse. The first is responsible for installing and maintaining set temperatureand the second provides safe operation Heating appliance. If suddenly, for some reason, oil will begin to peel the oil, then the fuse will perform its "mission", stopping the flow of the current to the TEN.

Repair of the heater from A to Z

Looking at the oil heater with a naked eye, the consumer might think that this device is solid, that is, its body with an electric unit is welded together by the rolling method. But it is not entirely true. Take a look at the inscription "Do not cover", directly under it you will notice a few screws that fasten the cover to the housing. These screws will have to be unscrewed, but the cover is immediately not disconnected, because it keeps the spring from the inside. Remove the spring, then you can easily remove the panel.

Now you need to digitate the TEN. Having considered it attentively, you will see that this part of the oil radiator is tightly roles, and this is not good. Manufacturers have taken care of users household appliances did not have access to heating elements. The fact is that the Tennies are rarely broken, they work long years. So, once again try to promote them is not recommended.

Suppose one of the Tan has failed. Where to repair such a device? The answer is not comforting: neither at home, nor in the workshop to weld the TEN to the body so that the design will again become hermetic, it will not work. The result of such a repair is a boding oil from the tank, which can provoke serious problems!

How to repair a heater? You can handle the elements of connecting the device for prophylaxis with alcohol. In all models of radiators, they are made in the form of terminals, so you should not have problems with disconnecting, cleaning and connecting these parts of the unit. It is important to be attentive to not be mistaken, connecting the wires to the terminals.

Exactly the same considerations should be guided when we are talking About the fault of the power supply and elements responsible for safety. Please note that the quality repair of these parts of the radiator is not so simple.

Of course, there is a mass of educational video with detailed instructionsHow to disassemble and repair the aforementioned components, but if you do not have this experience, it is better to simply replace them with new ones. In this case, everything is simple - they are fixed on brackets or screws, so you can make dismantle without problems.

Important: By producing an oil heater assembling, make sure not to confuse the wires. Remember that the radiator electroscheme is the basis of its correct work.

Restoration of the housing integrity

Let's talk about the repair of the radiator tank. In principle, it, like a TEN, is not advised to repair at home. If you still want to fix the breakdown, associated with the tank tank with butter, then pay attention to our recommendations.

The first step is to merge the oil. Pay attention to how the variety of oil is filled with a tank. This is important, as in the process of repair, although it is small part, but it will be broken, and you will have to fill the loss.

Important: Mix mineral oil with synthetic is prohibited.

Metal radiators enclosures are sealed with two methods: they are soldered or welded. In this case, welding is more reliable optionHowever, not everyone has the opportunity to produce this manipulation.

Let us dwell on the soldering in more detail. Take the copper-phosphoric, silver or brass solder, tin to use it! Take care of the presence of the burner, and when you solder, pour water into the tank. When the work is over, dried off the tank from the inside. Please note that the oil in an unprepared form cannot be poured into the heater. It is important to evaporate at a temperature that does not exceed the mark of +90 degrees. If heat the oil is stronger, it will begin to oxide.

Summing up, we note that dIY repair Oil radiator is quite possible. However, is it worth doing this? As you can see, this is a time-consuming process that requires compliance with the rigid safety rules. The cost of this heating device is not so high, and usually it serves for a long time without complaints.

Therefore, if you have the opportunity, it is better to buy a new radiator. Suppose you want to review the electrical part of the device at your leisure, or exercise in the tank welding - dare, just follow the recommendations given above. Published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.