Repairs Design Furniture

Repair of the Gas Column Ross with their own hands. The inner device of the gas column. Problem # 2. The gas column does not light up or ignites and immediately flops

From the author: Hi, dear readers! Despite the popularity of electric water heaters, gas equipment takes a significant niche. It is highly efficient, economically and has many other advantages. Of course, like any other equipment, such a heater requires regular service, and sometimes small repair, which can be done at home.

In order for you to have the opportunity to carry out these operations, you need to know how to disassemble the gas column. Today it is about this and will be discussed. In addition to the disassembly process, you will also learn about the methods of cleaning the heat exchanger from scale, as well as on some repair work.

Regarding the last point immediately should say the following. Not every repair procedure can be made at home. Blue fuel is a fire hazardous and explosive substance, therefore, if there is at least the slightest probability of such consequences, it is categorically prohibited to eliminate the problems. And this is not theoretical prohibition, but very official.

There are several types of problems, the elimination of which can be engaged exclusively by experts:

  • fault passion - It is necessary to replace it;
  • during the column, cotton is distributed - It speaks of too high or too low pressure when the gas is applied, the column is required;
  • during the burner, the flame is yellow, and not blue - Most likely, the problem is to clog the element;
  • when you turn on the equipment you feel the smell of gas.

Since in all four cases we are a fault of the elements responsible for the supply and burning of gas, only specialists from the service of the appropriate orientation should be dealing with the issue.

Separately, it is worth saying about the fourth case. If the smell of gas occurs when you turn on or operating the column, then you need to immediately make several actions.

  1. Turn off the equipment.
  2. Overlap the shut-off valve on the gas supply pipe.
  3. Provide an intense level of air exchange indoor - Simply put, open the windows for venting.
  4. Call the emergency gas service and outline the problem.

In addition to turning off the column and overlap of the gas, you can no longer do with this equipment until the problem is eliminated by specialists. Security is the most important thing that you should remember in this situation.

Well, with the forbids figured out. Let us now move on to what you can do yourself if your column is capricious and does not want to work fine.

Disassembling equipment

Before you start disassembling equipment, you need to do three things:

  • overlap the water supply;
  • overlap the gas supply;
  • remove the column from the wall.

The first two operations are made using shut-off cranes installed on the corresponding pipes. As for removing from the wall, then options are possible. If you just need to make a preventive inspection of the inputs of the device, then the column can be left on the spot. If you need some repair work or cleaning, then the device is better to remove. As a rule, it is fixed on the wall with special elements and fasteners. You only need a screwdriver for removing.

Before removing the column from a legitimate place, be sure to disconnect it from all communications. First, open the "hot" crane at the nearest point of the water treatment and lower the water remaining in the heat exchanger. Then close this mixer. Disconnect the water pipes, then gas. Do not forget about the chimney pipe.

  1. Removing the handles. We are talking about regulators that are located on the main panel of the device. They are installed on the same principle as the handles on the ordinary plate. You can remove them, either by simply pulling on yourself, or pushing a long flat screwdriver and, again, pulling.
  2. Removing the casing. The front panel is usually fixed with screws. Their location depends on the specific model of the column - they can be top and bottom, or on the rear panel. In any case, they need to find and unscrew. After that you can remove the front panel. Sometimes it is additionally fixed with hooks. In this case, the lid need to lift a little and only then pull on yourself. Do not do sharp movements because the wires are attached to the control panel from the internal elements of the column. They need to be disconnected and only then finally remove the casing.
  3. Removing the heat exchanger. As a rule, it is attached to the exhaust cabinet and to the gas burner with screws. They need to unscrew and pull out, and then remove the element itself, trying not to damage the wires and contacts. Detailed description of the removal of the heat exchanger you can look at the video:

For all these operations you will need only a set of screwdrivers. Be careful: all the pull-out screws fold into some container so that they are subsequently not lost. When it comes to the removal of the heat exchanger, we recommend photographing the location of the structural elements before each subsequent action. So you can subsequently easily restore their original position and connect everything correctly.

After the equipment is completely disassembled, you can proceed to preventive or repair procedures.

Delete scale from heat exchanger

Skip is a very frequent problem of any water heating equipment. It is formed as a result of the interaction of salts contained in water, with high temperatures. Accordingly, its main concentration is accounted for by those elements that are simultaneously contacted with heating, and with liquid. In this case, this is a heat exchanger.

Skip has a rather negative effect on the equipment. At a minimum, it clogs the tubes by reducing their bandwidth. Because of this, the water is worse circulate, and also heats up poorly in the process.

You can determine the presence of a problem even before you disassemble the column and looked inside the heat exchanger. Symptoms may be as follows:

  • hot water from the mixer runs much worse than cold;
  • gas in the water heater goes out almost immediately after the ignition;
  • the column does not turn on;
  • water began to heat up worse than before.

Fortunately, you can cope with screaming yourself, and this does not require some global costs. It will take only some time, large pelvis, hose, citric acid and warm water. Just in case, be robbed by a rag - in the process on the floor there can be shed a little liquid.

  1. Prepare a solution for cleaning. For this, 100 grams of citric acid should be divorced in 1 l warm water. If scale is very much, it is better to use more radical means. In household chemicals, various chemical compounds are sold, designed specifically to remove such deposits. Of course, it will cost more than citric acid, but also acts more efficiently. If both options for some reason are not suitable for you, you can try not too concentrated vinegar solution - it is necessary to use a dining room for it, not an essence. In the extreme case, it can pass for a cleaning agent soda-cola or sprite. They contain orthophosphoric acid, which plays the role of the solvent. But this method uses at your own risk, as it, to put it mildly, does not apply to the recommended.
  2. Place the heat exchanger in a large pelvis. In the tube, pour the prepared solution so as to fully fill them. To be more convenient, use the rubber pear from the enema or something like that.
  3. If you applied a casing or lemon solution to clean, the heat exchanger must lie in a flooded state of 15 minutes. If you used the store chemistry, the soaking time is indicated on the packaging.
  4. After the soaking has affected, it is necessary to drain the solution and rinse the heat exchanger. To do this you need a hose. One end to the nearest shell to the nearest sink, and the second attach to the heat exchanger to be connected to the cold water supply pipe. Then open the shut-off valve on it. The flow of water will wash the whole solution, merging by the hose in the sink. Make the flushing longer so that all aggressive composition accurately left the heat exchanger walls. Otherwise, the effects of substances will continue, which can lead to metal damage.

After washing, perform a visual inspection of the heat exchanger tubes. If the walls are clean - fine, you can collect the column in the original state. If some quantity of scale remained in the tubes, then repeat the procedure from the very beginning.

Repair work

Now let's go to the repair work that you can implement yourself. Once again we remind you that some problems can eliminate only specialists from the gas service. Do not ignore this warning, because it comes, first of all, about your safety.

So, consider what you can do if the column:

  • does not ignite;
  • constantly fades;
  • heats badly;
  • gives a water stream with a weak pressure.

The burner does not ignite

First of all, if such trouble occurs, check the state of the stobble. If it is not working, contact the gas service for cleaning or replacing the item. If everything is in order with the stale, then the absence of a spark may become another cause. For example, electronic control columns usually give it only if the power source is available, the role of which the batteries act. New - most often, such a simple action leads to success.

We now turn to the reasons more complicated. For example, the column may not be lit, if there is no normal thrust in the chimney. In this case, the sensor that tracks this factor simply will not give it to work items responsible for fire. And it will make it right, because without removal of carbon monoxide, the use of the column is deadly.

The diagnosis of this problem is simply carried out. Out off the pipe connecting the speaker nozzle and ventilation output. Then bring the last few long paper strips. The test must be carried out with an open window. If the paper pulls into the channel, then everything is fine. If there is no, then with a terrible problem.

It can be solved in two ways. First - clean the channel yourself. It is done strictly from the side of the apartment. You will need a long metallic rash for work. With it, they squander from the walls of the canal South, cobweb and other deposits. Then remove all this matter using an ordinary vacuum cleaner.

After this operation, check the craving. If the situation has not changed, then this usually speaks about the presence of a blockage somewhere in the depths of the channel. Alone, you will not do anything with this, so your path lies with the organization engaged in the home service. Write an application for cleaning the ventilation system, after which a specialist will come and everything will do.

The last reason for the lack of normal ignition column may be the deformation of the membrane, which is located in the water node. Regardless of the quality and cost of water heating equipment, this element is wearing over time. He can stop seven years old. The result of deformation becomes a decrease in the sensitivity - the membrane simply does not respond to the strengthening of the flow of water, so the signal for the ignition is not fed.

To confirm this assumption, open the faucet on the mixer so that the water flow is as powerful as possible. If at the same time the column was lit, and with a smaller pressure, then the reason is almost 100% in the membrane.

To get to this element, you need to unscrew two nuts from the water node, as well as three screws by which it is fixed in the gas. Then disclose the node into two halves. Inside you will see a rubber membrane. Ideally, it should be flat. If there are any deformations, the element is subject to replacement. When you acquire a new membrane, stop the selection on silicone - it will last much longer and more reliable than that that is made from ordinary rubber.

Since you climbed inside the water node, then at the same time check and the filter condition - as they say, in order not to get up twice. If the grid is clogged with mud, then disconnect it or rinse, or replace the new one. Then install all items in place and re-assemble the node, which describes the steps described above in the reverse order.

The flame of the burner constantly fades

As a rule, the attenuation of the burner has a protective origin. This affects the sensor that tracks the heating level of the column. If the temperature begins to exceed the permissible indicator, the protection is triggered, and the burner is turned off.

Normally, this happens infrequently. But there are failures in the work of the equipment, as a result of which the attenuation begin to occur continuously. Naturally, using column in such cases is simply impossible. There are two options of how the temperature sensor is impaired:

  • the burner goes down after a while after the start of work, Then the column cannot be launched about half an hour. After this period, it starts working again, after which everything is repeated. Such a problem is due to excessive sensitivity of the temperature sensor. That is, the protective element reacts even to the temperature that is not dangerous to the equipment. As a rule, this impaired performance is a consequence of a marriage made in production;
  • the burner behaves unpredictable. It can be spontaneously smoking at any time, and even at all initially not burn. The reason is usually as follows. There is insulating material on the temperature sensor conductor. If it is wearing, you begin chaotic closures on the body. This reacts the safety valve that turns off the burner.

In this case, the gas service will not be able to help with repair, but also you can hardly make it hardly. Of course, if you have experience like this work, then this is not a problem - just replace the sensor to the new one. But in the absence of appropriate skills, contact the service center, without trying to eliminate the breakdown itself.

This is especially true when equipment is still on warranty service. If you try to fix it yourself, and you will not succeed, then under warranty you will not be able to restore the operability of the column, since there will be an outside intervention. Therefore, if the service life has not yet expired, then it is better to immediately send a column to repair professionals.

Bad heat heating

This phenomenon may have two reasons. The first is to clog the burner, as mentioned above. In this case, the flame becomes yellow, and not blue, as it should be. It is impossible to eliminate the blockage yourself, as this refers to the competence of the gas service.

The second reason lies in the initially improper selection of equipment. If the column has less power than necessary for your family, then the result will be obvious. For example, you purchased a device designed for two water-based points, and in fact it works for three. It is clear that there is simply not enough for such a volume of water.

You can solve this problem in two ways. Or buy a more powerful column that will meet the needs of the family. Either conduct a meeting of households on which we have to use that at the same time you can use only two points of water-based, and not three or more.

Bad water pressure

Too weak water pressure is usually associated with a blockage of heat exchanger. Its passing ability becomes much smaller, and therefore the jet is issued thinner. About how you can personally get rid of scale, has already mentioned above. Moreover, it is desirable to pursue this procedure not when the column has already become a pathetic structure instead of normal pressure, and prophylactically, that is, regularly.

There are particularly launched cases when the heat exchanger tubes are clogged almost completely, and it fails to remove. In addition, the presence of a thick accusative layer often affects the state of the walls. In such a situation, it is better not to bother with cleaning, but replace the heat exchanger. This is desirable to refer to specialists who have experience like this.

Dear friends, now it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, conduct diagnostics and correct the existing problem. When making a decision on the necessary work, remember that the main thing in this case is security. Therefore, if any doubt, better contact the specialists. Successes!

Since sooner or later, the moment will come when the home water column will begin to be capricious either to work out at all, users will not hurt to know how to act in one way or another. Depending on the malfunction, you can make some repair of gas columns with your own hands or call the wizards. The latter action is most preferable because the heater refers to gas-wide installations, which means it is a source of increased risk. This article will be outlined, which malfunctions can be eliminated on their own and how to do it.

Faults of speakers

We will immediately make a reservation that we will consider the problems of flowing heaters with an open combustion chamber, which in apartments and homes have a great set. Repair of fully automated turbocharged columns with power supply from the network and ignition from the hydrogenerator we will bypass. These devices are quite complex and interference with their design by the injecting person is contraindicated. Service or gas services should be engaged in eliminating problems of upgraded aggregates.

The list of faults inherent in gas columns in several years of operation is as follows:

  • gas smell;
  • problems with the ignition and launch of the main burner;
  • turning off the heater during operation;
  • various leaks.

If the gas smell occurs, it does not matter, constantly or periodically, it is necessary to immediately overlap the corresponding crane, open the windows and call the emergency service. Explain the character of the problem of the problem, and it will decide - urgently send your brigade home or simply send the wizard in turn. There are no other options, the methane leakage itself is strictly prohibited.

Note problems

The ignition systems of atmospheric heaters are of two types, we will examine them separately:

  • manual, with sparking from the pugeelement;
  • automatic with power from batteries.

For reference. The most modern column models are burned in automatic mode from the energy produced by the hydrogenerator. Everything is relatively simple: if the ignition does not work, then it is a weak pressure in the water supply, or the generator itself has failed.

With a manual method of ignition, such a malfunction of the gas column is sometimes observed as the outflow of thermocouples. Then, when the regulator is released or the button during the ignition, just burning wick again goes back. The fact is that the thermo-sensitive element must warm up from the stilt, while you hold the handle and give a current on the solenoid valve. The latter will hold the mechanism instead of you when you release it. If this does not happen, then the contact in the chain or the thermocouple is subject to replacement. To perform this operation it is better to invite the wizard.

As for automatic ignition systems, the fault of the gas columns during the ignition process is not limited to the discharge of the batteries, as written on many Internet resources. In addition, any more or less modern model of the heater, even Russian production, is equipped with an electronic discharge indicator of batteries. So the user is aware when the time is to change them.

The device will not even start the ignition process of the stamp, until the cerave of hot water opens and the required pressure will not appear on the network. When it is not enough, the column will not give any signs of life. The same thing happens with insufficient gas pressure or after disconnecting as a result of the triggering of the thrust sensor (until it cooled). With poor gas pressure, it is better to deal with a specialist of the relevant service, you can not do it yourself.

Since we consider the internal malfunctions of the column, then as a culprit of a weak pressure of water, we can call a closed mesh at the entrance to the water node. If the charge of the batteries is normal, water and gas pressure is enough, and the heater makes it a spark discharge click, but it does not go further, then we turn to the next section.

The main burner does not start

One of the main devices facing the safety of the aggregate is a water node (in a simple - "frog"). In the presence of sufficient water pressure, the frog is pressed to the actuator of the gas valve and it supplies fuel to the main burner (in conventional speakers). In automatic heaters, the water assembly opens the fuel access to the stobble, and the gas supply to the main nozzles is already a function of the gas node.

When the water assembly is faulty, the fuel will not be fed to the burner, and in the case of automatic heaters - and to the stall. It happens that when opening the valve of hot water to the maximum, the frog still works, but this indicates only the presence of small cracks in the working diaphragm. The device can be in feeling with your own hands, for this you need to purchase a repair kit and change the membrane, which will be described below.

Frequently, the situation in which the wick is flammable, but burns badly, weakly. Looking around, you can see that the color of fire is rather yellow, not blue. When filing fuel to the main burner, cotton are distributed due to the fact that it flashes not immediately and has time to fill the combustion chamber. Here for the repair of the column you need to clean the tube and the fader. The latter in many models is easily removed and can be cleaned, as shown in the video:

Important! It is impossible to clean the wick to insert steel wire into it. It is necessary to use only thread and a thin wooden wand, moistened kerosene.

The burner is turned off while working

A malfunction of the same water node can also lead to the cessation of gas supply in the process of combustion. With a large pressure, the frog with a worn membrane is still cope with somehow, but if you open cold water, the pressure drops and the gas column fades. The same consequences occur when the thrust sensor fails. The thermo sensitive element is intended to break the electrical chain when its surface reaches a certain temperature. The sensor is set near the yield of flue gases and is connected to the electroclap wire.

As soon as the thrust in the chimney disappears, the temperature of the gas plant before leaving the path will increase dramatically, the sensor will warm and tear the circuit. The electric valve, in turn, will block the flow of fuel. The described element is not eternal, sometimes it should be changed too. Check the performance of the part simply: You must unscrew it from the case and without turning off the wires, squeeze out. Sustainable burner operation indicates that the sensor is working, and the reason lies in the chimney pipe, where, due to some reason, the thrust disappeared.

The deterioration of the thrust may appear when the edges of the heat exchanger are clogged with soot, and the water pressure fall, if its tubes from the inside are covered with a thick layer of scale. The heat exchanger must be cleaned periodically and rinsed.

In addition to the water node and the thrust sensor to the cotton and unstable burner operation, the temperature sensor malfunction can cause the temperature sensor, and it is not subject to repair, only replacement. True, to detect in this case a malfunction is difficult. We will advise in a situation where the frog and the thrust sensor are fully working, and the symptoms do not disappear, contact a specialist.

Water leaks

Inside the flow heater, water pipes are attached to various nodes using precipitated nuts and sealing rubber rings. Homeowners, years not serving their aggregates, can detect dripping water under the device. If it came out, the repair of the gas column is to check all the conjugations and replacing the seals.

There are other places where water can be seized, for example, through a working rod of the water node. This suggests that at least the replacement of the sealer on the frog rod is required, for which it will take its removal and disassembly. In models equipped with a safety valve, the latter may also proceed, especially if he had a discount pressure several times. Finally, the most unpleasant situation is a damaged heat exchanger in which the fistula was formed. Buy new - very expensive, easier to repair the old one, as described in the next section.

Repair of heat exchanger

Important! Do not forget to overlap the gas highway for any repair work!

Independently close the crack or fistula in the heat exchanger is quite possible when damage to the tube is located on the front side or side. Otherwise, the item will have to shoot, for which it will have to disassemble almost the entire column. Problems with soldering heat exchanger, when leak is located in the back of either between the ribs of the radiator, it is necessary to instruct the master from the service center. You will also need:

  • powerful soldering iron (at least 100 W);
  • small sandpaper;
  • white spirit or another solvent;
  • solder and rosin.

To repair the gas column heat exchanger, you must first release water from it. To do this, the common valve overlaps, the nearest hot water faucets opens and a slightly unscrewed nut at the entrance to the water node is slightly unscrewed. When the water escaped, the nut is turned off completely, the tap on the mixer remains open.

The next step is to carefully clean the place of damage to sandpaper, until the oxide film remains. Then the rag, moistened with White spirit, is degreased. Using rosin as a flux, the fistula is crazy so that its layer is smooth and smooth. It must be achieved that the solder on the copper surface is not loose, it means that the site is not warm enough. The final stage - the extension of the tin layer to a thickness of 1-2 mm.

At the end of the soldering, we open a common valve and inspect the place of repair on the leakage. If everything is in order, we close the faucet crane and test the speaker test.

The heat exchanger renovated with their own hands will still serve for a while, since the environment in it does not heat up over 100 ºС, and the soldering temperature is 200 ºС.

How to replace the membrane in the gas column

As already mentioned above, a repair kit for this model of the heater will be required to conduct a revision of the water assembly. As a rule, it includes a membrane, a spring and a set of seals. From the tool you will need a horn key and a conventional screwdriver. Before proceeding to work, it is necessary to drain water from the frog, as described in the case of the heat exchanger.

Now you need to remove the water node itself. The nut at the inlet of the water is already unscrewed, it remains to turn the second and disconnect the frog from the gas valve. The connection type depends on the model and manufacturer of the unit necessary for this purpose the tool must be prepared in advance. Then the screws connecting two halves of the node are unlocked, and the membrane is replaced in the gas column. It is important to establish a diaphragm correctly, its position is best to remember when disassembling.

Before installing a new membrane, it is necessary to clean the rod (if there is no new in Remkomplekt) and replace all sealing rings. When the operation is completed, the parts are connected between themselves and fasten with screws. They must be tightened by the "Star" scheme when one screw should be opposite and so on. Starting water and testing are described in the previous section. The process details are shown in the video:

Conclusion

Predit to repair the column is possible if you correctly define a malfunction and make sure that it is forces. The types of work described in the article are available to many users, but if you are unspelled in success, it is better to just invite the specialties and you will sleep calmer.

Such a complex device, as a gas column, serves as a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes need fine or large repair of gas columns or their prevention. As well as replacing some components of the gas column.

Description of the aggregate

The internal device of gas water heaters of the protocate type is similar and almost no different At different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second thermal sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

The heat exchanger is installed inside - a ribbed tube of copper, which moves the aqueous stream. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats the tube and water passing inside it - heats up. With a small pressure of water or its absence, the incoming thread is overlapped with a valve (curtain), which is attached to the arson arson. This is done for fire safety.

Call wizards or repair yourself

Call masters

To repair a faulty gas column or prevent gas leakage (if you feel the smell), you must call the masters for the repair of gas columns. But if you decide to call Gorgaz workers, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to arrive, causing it by the fact that the repair should carry out the company (or the store), which installed the gas column.

Attention! Contact only companies that have the necessary certificates for working with this equipment.

Now we divorced a lot of "left" firms And the challenge of employees of such organizations brings a number of other problems. Many masters seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent malfunctions of the gas column or deliberately overestimate prices.

Repair gas column with their own hands

To improve safety, the population is prescribed so that malfunctions are eliminated by gas equipment eliminate employees of the relevant service. But there are such problems that can be corrected by yourself. If you know how to keep the instrument in your hands, you can repair the gas column with your own hands.

It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell about the most common of them and tell me how to eliminate one or another breakdown. And let's start with the setting of the unit.

Adjusting the height of the flame burner - the closer to the maximum of the hot water.
Adjusting the flow of water - the closer to the maximum, the stream is more, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - Column usage mode at different times of the year. In winter, the power is more than summer.

Not all the masters know how to properly configure the gas column and simply do not do it, leaving both (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the settings by factory and make adjustment yourself.

Temperature setting

  • Set the gas supply handle and water on the heater to a minimum.
  • Open the gas and water supply cranes on pipelines.
  • Open the hot water faucet and adjust the water pressure you need using the handle on the gas column.
  • Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Using the gas supply knob on the column, increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the desired one.
  • When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use water.

In the future, adjust the temperature can be other handle (feeding the heated water).

Pressure setup

When adjusting the column, sometimes unpleasant moments occur. A new column or turns on with a very small pressure, or does not want to run at all. It depends on the increased or reduced water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our quality water, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with a pretty quickly and very strongly, which reduces their heat resistance and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, the process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits of tap water arising from heating. If you turn the gas handle to the end, and the emerging water barely warm, it says about clogging the heat exchanger with a regular scale, which is badly transmitting heat.

This happens quite often if the gas column without auto income (with a stall). Also, the scale is formed if you set too much water heating temperature. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) is riveted to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little more than an hour) the occurrence of scale. Is it better to turn off the column in time? Then there will be no problems, because for all the washing and washing processes are 40-600.

Before starting work with the heat exchanger, check the input crane or valve. Maybe the whole reason in their clogging. But if they are working, it is necessary to get rid of deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to solve the issue with science. We will look at both options.

Auto

Cillit Kalkex cleaning system copes with his slave. With it, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible to ordinary users with gas speakers.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit Kalkex) and a set of special preparations for washing. Your column does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect water hoses for water (in / out).

The cleaning device is connected to the column, and it is the method of a closed cycle (in a circle) warms heated reagents. Scattered under their action decomposes, washed away and merges.

Manual

Cheap, but long and laborious process. For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

This will help us with the following materials and tools:

  • horn keys (set);
  • screwdrivers (cruciform and usual);
  • paronite strips (set);
  • rubber hose;
  • acetic Essence or Anti-Nakipin.

Disassembly of the gas apparatus

To remove the heat exchanger should act in this order:

  • first, overlapping the access of cold water;
  • then remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
  • remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, we lift and remove the lid;
  • open the "hot" crane;
  • we unscrew the feed tube from the heat exchanger and move;

Flushing system

After the total water supply, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the level of the column. In the hose, slowly, we pour the solution prepared by us and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to minimize the water supply faucet and watch the water that will leave the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work went not in vain - we got rid of it. If there is no scale in the leaving water, then we repeat the entire process again.

Gas column does not ignite

  1. The displacement of the water heater may occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely of them:
  2. The simplest reason for this trouble is the absence of normal thrust in chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "thrust" in it, then the column may not be lit.
  3. To check the fault, you can bring to chimney a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lit match. If they are trembling, then the thrust is fine. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
  4. If the device (only in aggregates with autojiga from the batteries or electrical network) does not ignite, then the discharge of the batteries or the fault of the wires, the blast unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electrical engineering system.

Emptying system of the stamp can occur from poor headwater. Open any Cold Water Crane and check the pressure if it is weak, then you can call the HOSE and find out what the problem is.

If the column does not ignite when water supply or turns on only with a very large pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which due to wear reacts poorly to the water passing in it. In this case, it must be replaced.

Gas column spontaneously disconnected

Each gas column establishes a temperature sensor that monitors the column does not overheat, in case of its failure column can turn off spontaneously during operation. It looks like this:

After normal operation, for some time, the heater "stalls" minutes by 20. After this time, it can be turned on at the same time. The malfunction is usually seasonal and manifests itself only in summer or in winter with closed windows.

The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up. This can occur when the sensor wires of the sensor are closed. Check the wires so that they are integer and with good insulation.

In order to check the sensor itself for performance, it should be removed from it two contacts and snatch with a needle, a clip, a piece of tin. If the gas device turns on and earn - the sensor must be changed.

Water heater proceeds

If you saw in your column similar spots, then be sure that it proceeds and she needs repairs.

This malfunction may occur mainly in gas speakers working for a long time. Two main reasons for leakage it is:

The radiator was broken.

Cracked tubes (taps) or gaskets in connections.
Replacing the radiator or taps costs quite expensive. Therefore, there is a reason to repair the gas column on its own. For repair required:

  • screwdrivers (cross and ordinary);
  • horn keys (set);
  • solder with rosin;
  • a vacuum cleaner;
  • solvent;
  • "Schurd".

Seeling holes

Because of the difficult working conditions, the radiator or taps can fire and holes appear on them. If you have determined in which place the leakage, then repair a small hole can be a regular soldering iron.

Preparation of the gas column to repair

  • Drain all the fluid from the system - open only the crane of hot water, unscrew the nut on the inlet tube to supply cold water, and most of the water follows;
  • Remove the radiator completely;
  • Inspect the entire tube. - If you see "greens" - slow down and inspect these places for cracks.

When you found leaks, then you need to do the following:

  • clean the found holes "skirt" and immediately wipe with a rag with a solvent (it will remove the remains of fats, nagar and dirt);
  • applying rosin with the solder, bring this place with a 100 watt firm (for the absence of rosin - apply aspirin);
  • speak the crack or the hole by the solder, and after its cooling, add more tin (layer should be 1-2 mm).

Attention! In some cases, with holes about 5 cm. The masters impose a "temporary" overlay from the plate of copper or aluminum, consolidating it with a thick wire or metal ribbon. But as a rule, such a "temporary" solution remains for a long time. We recommend replacing the radiator completely and forget about it leaks.

Malfunction of pads and tubes

The replacement of flexible hoses of such a sample does not require special skills, which can make it anyone with the presence of a wrench.

Very often, the leaks are formed in places connecting the taps to the heater outside or to the inner nodes of the column. All connections are made by "American women" with gaskets inside.

Due to the constant heating / cooling, rubberized liners or melted or lose their properties and harden. They arise cracks for which water flows.
If you notice the flow of the gas column in such connections, then replace the gaskets. Using the key (mostly on 24), unscrew the nut and replace.

It also happens that the flanges on the tubes are cracking over time - in this case you need to replace the entire tube.

Gas column turns on with cotton

Be sure to change the batteries in the gas column on time, since if they are sealing, your column will start making cotton during inclusion. Also, due to the seal batteries, the column can turn off spontaneously.

These sounds when turned on and during operation, indicate the following points:

  • inside the system (in the burner), because of the low gas head, there was a little air that gave rise to a microcus;
  • the flame is broken due to a large gas pressure;
  • zeor Zhikler;
  • mala tag ventilation;
  • droinated batteries.

On your own forces you can eliminate only the faults described in the last two points.

Gas column warm water

This can happen for several reasons.

  • The easiest reason is incorrectly chosen gas column. You saved and bought a low-power heater unable to satisfy your queries in hot water.
  • The second reason is a little gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas seals to check the system.
  • The third reason is the usual blockage (fatter, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some species of which are described above. You can check it on the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.

You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column.

Remember! Self-adjustment of the gas column and troubleshooting requires special care. With poor performance, you can suffer not only you, and completely innocent people. With the slightest insecurity in their forces, it is worth contacting the professionals of the gas service.

Despite the widest assortment in the market of heating electrical appliances, the gas column still remains one of the most popular heating tools at home and ensuring its hot water. This is a fairly economical option, since it allows you to simultaneously provide several water floors in the house. Another advantage of gas columns can be considered that they allow you to use hot water, almost not limited, without any restrictions.

Main elements

The gas column device looks approximately as follows.

  • Water consumption regulator.
  • Connection with chimney.
  • Power control.
  • Heat exchanger.
  • Water knot.
  • Cap for drawing.
  • Switch.
  • Rear panel.
  • Gas valve consisting of membranes.
  • Ignition.
  • Gas node.

Two pipes are summed up to the gas column. The first of them is designed to supply gas, the second - for the supply of cold water. In addition, a pair of burners is placed below, one auxiliary one, one basic.

Important! The gas column device may be different, depending on the ignition method - it (ignition) can be electronic, manual and with a piezoelectric element.

How the gas column works

Such devices are intended to provide hot water of household and industrial facilities. The essence of their work is quite simple: Cold water from the pipeline falls into the heat exchanger of the column, where he warms the burners (they are placed under the heat exchanger). As you know, the fire needs oxygen, so the burners do not fade the column connects to the ventilation system of the house / apartment. The exhaust gas is eliminated by a special chimney, which is aligned exclusively with the gas column.

What should pay attention to when choosing a water heater

All described varieties of columns are somewhat different.

So, if the device is turned on manually, i.e., gas has to be adjusted by matches, the burner will be healing from the fact that you turn the fuel supply valve. Although it is worth noting that such structures have long been outdated long ago. Modern designs are equipped with either electronic ignition or a piezoelectric.

New models are activated by one touch of a button located on the front panel of the device. Piezorazigg creates a spark, an igniting stall. In the future, everything happens in automatic mode - the crane opens, the column is ignited, hot water starts.

If the gas column is incorporated electronically, then it is perhaps the most reliable and durable device. The system is included with a pair of batteries that are supplied to the formation of a spark charge. No buttons, no matches, the only thing to do to turn on is to open a crane. In most cases, the batteries serve for a very long time, as the energy for charge is minimal.

Causes of trouble and repair with your own hands

The use of gas columns, however,, like any other equipment, is accompanied by malfunctions, frequent or rare. At the same time there are such faults, which can only be eliminated by specialists who have the necessary knowledge and admission. But there are those who can be eliminated with their own hands, here we will look at them.

Video is not a sensor service

Video - Repair of the Chinese Gas Column

Important! You can check the chimney cravings with an old "grandfather" way: to bring a burning match to it. If the fire on the match will be deviated in the direction of the chimney, it means that everything is in order. If this did not happen, then it needs to be completely cleaning.

It is for this reason that the gas column should be examined annually - only it will work correctly.

Features of operation

Gas water heaters of modernity are different in size and compactness, so that they can be placed in almost any convenient location. Their service life depends largely on how correctly it is to install and use in the future.

As you know, the gas column device is such that it comes from enough dangerous fuel. For this reason, during the installation, take care of, God forbid, the leakage of gas does not happen. If you can't take care of this reason, or, worse, you can not eliminate all the leakage sites, then further operation will turn into a dangerous lesson, which sooner or later can lead to an explosion.

For this reason, to install the gas column with your own hands is not categorically recommended. It is better that professionals who have all the necessary skills, experience, as well as appropriate equipment.

So, for mounting you need to have the following tools:

  1. dowel;
  2. filter on magnet and salt;
  3. drill;
  4. the required number of cranes;
  5. pipeline;
  6. chimney corrugation;
  7. gas pipe;
  8. maevsky's valve;
  9. actually, the column itself.

The device is installed only in the kitchen and only on the wall, which is made of refractory material. The distance from the column to the wall surface should be at least 2 centimeters, if it turns out more, it is even better. This should also lay asbestos sheet, which should have a thickness of at least 0.3 centimeters.

Important! In the apartment / house, it is necessary to indemnify the chimney, which will divert gas burning products. It will consist not only from the vertical, but also from horizontal sites, and on them it should go under a slope (approximately 0.2 centimeters for each running meter).

In order, the pipeline does not accidentally break through, the gas column should be installed only if the water is completely solid from the system.

But the installation, as we said, not the most important thing. It is also important that the device is properly exploited, for which certain operation rules should be followed. If not to do this, then even the most expensive and high-quality model will soon break. So, we want to prevent it. First, we do not have to warm water to a temperature that would exceed 60 degrees. The fact is that too high temperatures will result in the walls of the heat exchanger to form a salt scale. As a result - more frequent cleaning or, worse, replace heat exchanger.

In addition, we can harm the design of the heat exchanger and using too hard water. To avoid this, water should be softened using special tools, or install a special filter to the system.

Correct gas columns

If you decide to buy a gas column device, please note, first of all, the power of your chosen model. It should be enough to provide all members of your family with hot water. The power of almost all modern models fits in the range from 3 to 60 kilowatt.

Important! The more powerful gas column, the greater the volume of water it will be able to heat up for a certain period of time.

The average "society cell", consisting of four people, needs a device, the capacity of which is an average of 16-24 kilowatts. Its more than enough in order to be washed with dishes and everyone managed to take a shower. Even if the device will have low power at 16 kilowatt, it will be able to give 10 liters of hot water, which is enough for the cano in the same time and wash the dishes. Of course, if you can, then buy a power column in 24 kilowatta, as it can provide 24 liters of warm water.

In addition, it is desirable to take into account the water temperature, which can provide a specific model. For its designation use Latin letters DT. For example, if the water will arrive at a heat exchanger with a temperature of 12 degrees, then it will heat up to 24 in it. Consequently, it can be used even without prior dilution.

Today there are such models that are able to heat the water even up to 50 degrees. Their power, as well as cost, is an order of magnitude higher than ordinary models. For this reason, if several plumbing elements are simultaneously connected to the system, the column is better to acquire more powerful so that it can provide them with all hot water at the same time.

Also, buying a gas column, see whether it is equipped with safety sensors. They are the following types:

  • overheating;
  • burner attenuation;
  • burning;
  • reduced pressure;
  • temperatures;
  • sudden cessation of water supply.

And remember: gas columns are allowed to be installed solely in the kitchen! Installing the gas column in the bathroom is prohibited! Is that it (bathroom) meets all existing requirements.

As a conclusion

So, we have disassembled that it is a gas column, in which its features, what malfunctions may occur during operation and how to repair them then. We only note that such devices are extremely economical, especially in the light of all increasing communal tariffs. And last: do not forget that the prophylaxis of column should be carried out annually.

Installation of the flow water heater is one of the options for solving the home of hot water, of course, it is required to have gas heating at home, but gas is now almost all.

Special attention should be paid to the gas column, as they are more economical than electrical taking into account tariffs and more conveniently accumulative water heaters, as any hot water can be used at any time.

It is very important to quickly find and eliminate any malfunctions. The gas column is quite possible to repair on its own.

Gas column, this is an iron box resembling a wardrobe. It is suitable for gas and plumbing pipes, inside there is a heat exchanger, as well as the main and passing torch.

After opening the crane, the gas valve opens and passes it into a passing burner, the main one comes on. When combustion of gas, heat is allocated, used to heal water, combustion products are out of chimney.

Based on the means of ignitioning the repliment, the columns can be electronic, manually or with a piezorozhig, when manual ignition, matches are required, you need to open a gas crane, bring a lit match and light it, the main burner will turn around after the handle turn.

Almost all modern columns are equipped with an electronic ignition system, it is much more practical and safer, after opening the crane, the system is activated by water pressure and with two finger batteries, a discharge is given and a gas valve opens.

The system of piezoroca is based on a piezoelectric effect, mechanical actions are converted to electric discharge. When you turn on the column for the first time, you need to press the button on its front panel to activate the piezoelectric unit, the scope and the main burner will light up from this spark.

When closing the crane, it will go out, and the younger will burn, but its warmth is not enough to boil the water remaining in the heat exchanger.

The next time, it is enough just to open the crane, you don't need to press anything and wait, warm water will immediately go. If you have a boiler room for gas heating, the gas column will become the best solution.

The gas column is a rather complicated device, but if you follow the rules of operation and carefully care for it, it can last long enough, but any technique once breaks, it also applies to gas speakers. The quality of water and gas is especially important for them, after some time, the column may require repair.

How to repair the gas column?

There are several major faults such columns. In many cases, it is possible to repair the gas columns with their own hands, however, this requires construction skills.

The most common problem is that the heat exchanger clogged with science. Tough water is to blame for this, scale begins to postpone at temperatures above 80 degrees.

  • It is enough to solve the problem simply, you need to not use excessively hot water when bathing, quite enough temperatures of 42 degrees, and for washing dishes - 45, the means of removing fat will cope in cold water, the temperature of 60 degrees is quite enough for machine wash.
  • Many for convenience leave the column to work on the stall so that it is not enough to unsubscribe again and do not configure, but the temperature increases literally after its hour, as a result, it is formed.
  • The column must be turned on and off if necessary, you do not need to redo the heater automation, if you have a weak pressure, better place the magnifying pump.
  • If the column is still broken, rinse the heat exchanger, but it must be understood that it is actually scored, a decrease in water pressure in the crane may indicate this. For washing, you need a flat and cruciform screwdriver, horn keys, paired gaskets, as well as a rubber hose, will also need anticipine powder, acetic essence is suitable.

You need to start with removal from the column of fittings, then the casing is removed, after which, turn the water closer to the column of any faucet of warmed water, now you need to unscrew the feed tube from the heat exchanger, remove it to the side, after unscrewing the nut from the heat exchanger, it will start to go from it Water, drain near the liter.

At the heat exchanger inlet, you need to wear a hose and raise the above column, put a solution in the hose and a small jet to the solution into it, do it slowly so that there is no reaction and anti-vakipin was not pushed out. Leave the solution in the heat exchanger for 2 hours. The substance can be warm up on the stall so that the reaction went faster.

Under the crane you need to put a bucket or basin and open water, if there is a sludge from the hose, and the pressure has improved after repair, it means everything is fine, if not, repeat the procedure, but if you use anti-vakipin, there will be no such problems.

At the sight of leaks in the gas column, a desire arises to change the heat exchanger, but it is quite expensive, you may have to start installing a gas column, it is better to try to repair it, you can spare it, using a soldering iron.

Water flowing through the heat exchanger tube has a temperature of up to 100 degrees, and solder melts at 200 degrees, so the soldering will not melt. Usually, fistulas occur in the tube passing from the outer side of the radiator, since it is often made from poor-quality material. If you have found the place of the leaks, then before soldering, you need to drain the water from the heat exchanger so that it does not take heat, and you could warm the place of soldering well.

Open the hot crane in the sink, then you need to turn off the cape nut from the pipe of the column feeding cold water. The gas column is located above the crane, so you have a lot of water, but not everything to remove the remnants, you need a vacuum cleaner to make a purge, only after that you can start repairing the radiator.

Soldering item is not difficult, with the help of shallow sandpaper, clean the place of the fistula from the oxide. After stripping, wipe the section with a cloth, moisten it in a solvent so that dust and fat can be removed. An rosin is suitable as a flux, but if it is not, you can use aspirin, the tablets need to be cooled and sprinkle into the place of the mud, you can also grasp the tablet with a heated surface.

  • If during the meadow, the solder does not spread, and there is a loose layer, it means that you badly warmed the place of soldering and you need to do it again. As soon as the solder stops the surface evenly, it must be increasing to a thickness of 2 mm, you will no longer come across. Look carefully on the radiator tube.
  • If you see a green spot, it means that there is a hole passing the water, bring it out and read it so that I never had to come back to this work soon.
  • If the column does not ignite, there is no traction in the ventilator, apparently, the chimney is scored soot or there is a foreign object, the defense simply worked in the column, and the gas was blocked, you need to check the craving for this, bring a match to it if the flame goes into side, traction is available.

Perhaps the column does not ignite, then the batteries can be discharged, but it can only be if you have a column with automatic rally, although manufacturers say that batteries are designed for a year, in fact they will have to be changed much more often.

The column may not be lit because of a weak water pressure, open the cold crane, if the head is small, it is possible that the column itself is not to blame, and a separate area or the entire pipeline.

If the pressure of cold water is stronger than hot, then you need to repair the water block of the column, since the reason is most likely in it. Sometimes a mesh filter can be clogged, this happens when the water is turned off and re-connected, you need to unscrew one nut, pull the grid and clean it. Check the state of the membrane, unscrew the nuts and 3 screws from the knot 2, holding the node for the cone in the gas node.

Disconnect the half of the node, you will be the membrane. If the rubber band is deformed surface, replace it, you can also clean the cavity of the node and the grid.

The best option will be a silicone membrane, it will last longer. The column sometimes goes out after ignition, the cause can be a thermocouple, its poor contact with the solenoid valve.

If she is a mustache, you need to clean the contacts of the column and the automatic block, adjust the flow of cold and hot water, do not dilute the hot water cold, as the flame will get out. As can be seen, to repair the column is quite possible on its own, but for this you need to be attentive and able to work with tools.