Oil radiator with your own hands: Common breakdowns, repair of faults and self-assembly. Oil heater repair: Types of faults and their elimination Electrical diagram of the oil radiator VITEK

Oil electrical heaters have simple design Therefore, usually, when they are operating, there are no special difficulties.

In most cases, they out of constructionHaving worked out not one warranty period.

However, even the simplicity of construction sometimes can save the oil heater from breakage, usually happening in the most incorrectly.

Difficulties in troubleshooting can only cause oil leak, the appearance of which is easy to detect when visual inspection of the device. Angels of oil that appeared on the heater body, suggest that the device must be turned off urgently, and then take care of purchasing a new heating device.

Some craftsmen are able to return the oil heater to life and after the appearance of such a malfunction, but this work quite complicatedHaving a lot of time. Engaged in such a repair is extremely rare.

To correct other damage usually refer to the specialistHowever, possessing elementary knowledge of electrical engineering, it is possible to solve the problem yourself.

Attention!Any repair of the electrical heater must be performed in compliance with the safety regulations. The device must be disconnected from the power supply.

Experts believe that the right definition of malfunction Makes repairing the device already half performed. Therefore, the first stage of repair oil heater Always the diagnosis of the device. In order to find a malfunction of the device, you need to know how it is arranged, which details are included in its design.

The outer view of the oil heater is most often reminded conventional battery heating, however this device Hermetic, and its inner space is filled with oil.

At the bottom of the tank inserted tang. The thermal stitch is located nearby, which serves to shut down the heater with an excessive increase in its body temperature.

Thermal relay It is usually located in the upper part of the case, not touching it. The switch is placed near the relay. With its availability, it is not necessary to turn off the heater to remove the plug from the rosette.

Simplest Oil heater scheme looks like that:

When closing the switch, After turning on the electrical appliance fork, immersed in Ten oil begins to heat up. On the start of the device, the light bulb flashes.

With the help of an adjustable thermostat, the maximum temperature is determined after which Ten will turn off. Again to the heating mode, it will switch after cooling the device to a given temperature.

Adjusting the thermostat There is a bimetallic plate inside it. The position sensor is designed to rupture the electrical circuit when tilting the heater.

For better management The operation of the device is equipped with two tanks. In this case, two switches are installed on the housing. With their help, heating power is adjusted. When adjusting one of heating elements You can disable.

The schematic diagram differs practically little from the usual heating device. Its main difference is that if there is a fan heating elements unable to enableIf the fan for some reason does not work. Such a heater scheme eliminates the damage to the Tan from their overheating.

Malfunctions and repair of the oil heater

If yesterday, a working heater opened, today ceases to heat up, then there is no need to immediately run into the workshop, or in the store for a new heating device.

Many malfunctions can be quite eliminate yourself, having basic skills in the repair of electrical appliances.

An exception can be faulty TEN, most often tightly foolished in the heater body. It is quite possible to remove it, but it's no longer possible to install it. Even if the heater is equipped with a removable pen, then when it is replaced by the tightness of the device, it will be difficult to achieve.

Usually, faults occurring during the heater breakdown appear in more accessible places. The most vulnerable place Devices are cord, so its integrity should be checked first. If the fork design allows it to disassemble, then you need to check the connection locations of the cord with the plug pins.

With good condition The next step should be to check the condition of the cord itself, as well as the place of its connection with the power supply unit. For this removes decorative cover The device panels and the tester are checked by the service of the cord. When damaged, the cable changes to the new one.

If a the cable is goodThe fault may be hiding in the power supply of the power supply. Contacts can be covered in nagar and weakened.

In this case, contacts are cleaned from Nagara emery paperAnd weakened contacts are neatly tightened.

The thermoregulator is located in the same place. If the darkening is visible on his contacts, they should also be cleaned. In the thermostat may be faulty bimetallic plates. When their damage is detected, the thermostat is neatly disassembled, and the plates change to new ones.

If the oil radiator refers to the category energy SavingIn its design, there is a thermostat that ensures that you enable and disable the device with the specified parameters.

With excessive heating Heater, or low temperature it also needs to be inspecting. If a malfunction is detected, this part changes to a new thermostat that has similar parameters.

In the presence of a fan oil heater, it is also need to check. In this case, not only the contacts of the device are checked, but also the integrity of the winding of its motor. It is possible that it may be necessary to replace it.

After completing the above checks and eliminate the observed faults, the heater is collected and then turns on to the network. If the heating device still does not work, you will have to seek advice from a specialist.

Most likelythat he advises to purchase a new heater. Some types of repair can do so expensive that it is easier to go to the store.

The device and the electrical circuit of the oil radiator can be found on the video:

Instructions for repairing (replacement of the Tan) of the oil heater look at the video:

Many breakdowns of heating devices can be eliminated independently, which will be very cheap.

The structure of the radiator

Conduct that broke, it is possible when it knows its structure. It is:

Metal hermetic capacity in the form of a battery or accordion. In the middle of it is technical oil. It fills in 90% of the tank. The rest is air. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of oil as a result of heating. If all the inner space of the radiator would be filled with oil, then the container would simply be broken.
TEN. It is in the middle of the main part of the radiator. It is always mounted at the bottom of the tank. It warms the oil. During heating, the oil circulates along the radiator. Most manufacturers are mounted double tang. He has two spirals. Ten is fixed in such a way that all its contacts are on outside tank. It can be built-in or removable.
Thermal stitch. It is located near the Tan above the heating element. The task of the fuse is to measure the temperature of the oil and in case it has become critical, or the oil has flowed down (then the case is heated), turn off the TEN. He is auxiliary element Safety, so very rarely interferes with the operation of the device. There are two types: bimetallic and wire. The first is more reliable.
. It can be found at the top of the heater. It is intended to regulate the heating of the radiator. The main part of this element is a bimetallic plate - is in heated air and reacts to changes in its temperature. There are usually ventilation holes above it. The same is the bottom of the casing, which is attached to the main metal container.
Two switches. Each of them is connected by phase, zero and grounding wires that depart from Tan. Each of them is suitable wire from the thermal relay. Near the switches there is a light bulb, which when working by the Tan is glowing.

Collapse of the oil radiator

Always begins with this procedure, because electrical elements are under the protective casingwhich is attached to one end of the heater. Moreover, the manufacturer attached it so that it seems as if he and the case are one of the whole.

Basic breakdowns

Burning, contact contamination.
Fault fork.
The failure of the thermal stitch.
Deformation of the bimetallic plate.
Breakfast.
The failure of the fall sensor or position.
Oil leak.

Elimination of the most simple breakdowns

These breakdowns are oxidation, relaxation of contacts, failure.

After parsing the radiator, you need to check each wire. This is done using a multimeter or tester. First check the condition of the fork. To do this, one end of the tester terminal is applied to one end. The second tester terminal must be applied to the compound of the thermostat and the wires departing from the fork.

Sometimes there may be an additional connection to the power cable. It is done immediately after the cable entry into the case. Next, the joints are deployed to the thermostar and the Tan. The second tester terminal must be applied to each wire in such a connection. Check both exits forks.

If the tester did not give the signal with an alternate application of the second tester terminal by the end of the input phase and zero wire, I am faulty is fork. Its necessary replace.

After that, the tester checks all other wires. One of his terminal is always applied to fork. Other concern all terminals. The sequence of verification is as follows:

contacts of the thermostat;
contacts of the thermal stitch;
contacts of the regulator of the operation of the TEN;
contacts of Tan.

During inspection, the thermorel must be in this position in which the TEN will work. It is exhibited at a temperature that is more available.

If there is no tester signal when checking the output contact of the thermorel, then possible is bad contact or a thermostile broke, or rather bimetallic plate. First pay attention to contact. The wire terminal is pulled out and check. If it is clean, no oxides or soot, then it is good, and the problem is based on the fastening of the terminal or the thermal. If the terminal has listed flaws, then it must be cleaned. In extreme cases, it is replaced by a new one.

Visually you can check all contacts. If the terminals are clean, without damage, then the problem is not in them. Some of the contacts can be weakened. Then they cheer them or more flatten the base in which the terminal is inserted.

See also: Characteristics and manufacture of oil heater

Repair of the thermaller and the thermal stuff

This process is replacement of bimetallic plateor the whole element. The bimetallic plate must be replaced when it is strongly deformed, and any position of the wheels of the relay does not closame contact.

The bimetallic plate is changed like this:

Exhibit the smallest heating temperature.
Remove the knob of the regulator.
Get out nuts, dismantle the frame.
Remove the bimetallic plate, put a new one in her place.
Collect the regulator.
Check the correctness of the plate operation. For this you need rotate the knob of the regulator by changing the position of the plate and exposing a certain level of temperature.. Next, heated with a plate with a hairdryer or a fan heater to an exhibited temperature level. If it is strung and the contact is disconnected, then it is installed well. In the reverse case, the replacement is incorrect. It is necessary to solve the complexity, weakening the pressure plate on the contact, which corresponds to the smallest heating temperature.

Plate exhibition B. right position - Long procces. It's easier to buy a new thermostat.

Similar actions are performed with a broken thermal protection.

Liquidation of oil leakage

The tightness disorders of the main part of the radiator and oil leakage is the most frequent problem of these heaters. Oil can flow through a random hole or wall that rusted. If the second option takes place, it is better to purchase another radiator, because corrosion can destroy a large area than seen. therefore after some time, the oil flows near the boiled or sealed place.

Sleeping or small holes, cracks can be:

solder;
brew

First option should be avoided. The soldering cannot provide a reliable compound, and with constant heating / cooling, durable contact of the solder and metal of the tank will begin to turn into a crack. Therefore, it is better to brew hole.

Preparing the heater to soldering or welding is the same:

The descent of the oil from the tank.
Cleaning problem space From dirt and rust. This can be done by sandpaper.
Pouring water into the tank. This will avoid possible ignition (inside there was oil, and its residues are accurately preserved).
Turning the radiator into such a position in which the water will not flow out of the holes.

Fan heater can be used as an additional electric heating For home and giving. If your system does not cope or have not yet included central heating In the apartment, such heaters can come to the rescue. But what to do if after summer the fan fan does not turn on either blows, but does not warm? In this case, it can be tried to repair independently, which is not really very difficult. Next we will provide the most frequent reasons breakdowns and ways to repair with their own hands.

Does not respond when turned on

If the fan heater does not turn on when connecting to the network and press the button, there may be several causes of malfunction. The first thing to be done is to check the electric cord, possibly confused during the summer storage somewhere. Did not help? We take a screwdriver and multimeter, after which you get to independent repair Heating agent. Most likely the cause of the malfunction is the fuse block, one of which worked with overheating.

On the example of a household heater Scarlett SC158.consider in the form step by step instructionsHow to fix the fan heater with your own hands:

We draw your attention to the fact that it is strictly prohibited to replace the fuses with thin wires (bugs). With this method of repairing a fan heater, you will make a fire hazard, which will not work when overheating!

Video Repair Instructions:

How to find a breakdown by a multimeter and repair it

Turns on but not heats up

The second popular vehicle breakdown is blowing, but does not heat the air. In this case, the cause of the malfunction is most likely the heating element - a spiral or a ceramic TEN. Here everything is simple - a multimeter check the resistance in the chain and if somewhere there is a break, you need to replace the heating element to the new one. Sometimes it happens that the heater has stopped warm, because Damaged one of the sections of the spiral. In this case, you can try to perform the repair of the fan heater with your own hands, connecting the nichrome spiral.

It is also not a rare case when the cause of the breakdown is the same fuse. If the fan heater does not heat the heat, check the fuses using the technology provided above.

In addition, the bimetallic temperature regulator often fails (showing the photo with a red arrow). For repair you only need to clean it up with the contacts to metal color and heat the soldering iron yourself. The thermostat should behave as follows: when heated, the contacts should break the chain, when cooled, closer again. If the device does not work like this, try manually to close the temperature controller and connect the heater to the network. If she is working - the heating of the helix should occur.

The blades are not spinning

If the fan guide works, but the fan does not twist, most likely causes the cause of the malfunction - the motor stopped working. What to do in this case? Contact the detail of the multimeter and check its insides. Perhaps simply wear bearings that should be replaced. About, we told in the relevant article!
Another breakdown variant is strong dust pollution, with the result that the fan does not twist either often turn off. Try to repair the engine with your own hands, rubbed it with a rag and pin down a little machine oil between the moving and fixed part. Did not help? We change the electric motor that broke into a new one, with the same characteristics.

Bad works

Well, the last malfunction - the fan heater warms the air. In this case, the cause of breakage is contamination of spare parts. Most likely the Ten is all in dust, as a result of which the heating occurs weakly, for example, at the second speed, as on the first. For such an easy repair, turn off the power and a dry cloth or a vacuum cleaner through all the elements of the chain, the main thing is not damaged. Made, but did not help? Check the electrical plug, it is possible to blame. Turn on the heater for a few minutes, then remove the plug from the socket and swell the electrodes. If one of them is noticeably warmer than the second - a broken electric fork, as a result of which household heater Weakly allocates heat.

Checking the operating mode switch

If the power cord is in order, then proceed to check the mode of operation mode of the heater.

The withdrawal of the switch to which the brown wire is suitable is common and the supply voltage is supplied. To check the switch, it is necessary to set it in position III, at which the total output must be connected to the other two outputs. Now it is enough to measure the resistance between the common output and the rest of the two, it should be zero. If the switch is set to position II, then the average contact will remain connected only with one of the other two. In position i, only with not yet proven contact. In the zero position, no contact should be connected to another. If the switch is in order, then you need to look for the cause of the heater breakdown elsewhere.

Checking the work of the bimetallic thermostat

Next to the mode switch sets a bimetallic thermostat. The principle of operation is based on properties different metals, increase or decrease in size when the temperature changes in different ways. If you connect two plates from different metals to one whole, then when the temperature changes, the resulting plastic will begin bending. And if you install an electrical contact on such a plate, then thanks to the bending of the plate, you can control the temperature of the power on or off of the electrical appliances depending on the temperature ambient. FROM useful feature Bimetallic plates each of us faces daily. For example, the electric kettle turns off the bimetallic plate, the ferry of the boiled water.

To check the health of the thermostat, it is sufficient to touch the leads of the multimeter to its conclusions and turn the handle from the stop until it stops in any direction. Almost all the range of rotation, the resistance of the thermostat must be zero. If this is not the case, then it is usually enough to clean the shallow emery paper, which are clearly visible on the side.

If you need to remove the thermostat, for example, to replace or repair, you must first remove the adjusting handle. It keeps on the axis due to a dense landing. To remove the handle, it is necessary to carefully pose it from two sides with flat blades of screwdrivers. The handle with a little effort will be removed from the axis.

Under the handle there are two screws. It is enough to unscrew them and the thermostat mechanism will be released.

Checking the health of heating elements

Introduced the queue of checking the heating elements connected to the switch and the thermostat with the hinged six pin connector.

As it turned out, the micatermic heating element of the composite and consists of two. One has resistance of 60 ohms, the second 100 ohms. To check the heating element, it suffices to measure the resistance between red, blue and brown wires. The check showed the serviceability of the host heater.

Vertical position sensor check

The position sensor is a loader, fixed on the lever with a balancing spring, engaged in the opposite end of the lever. When the heater is in a vertical position, the loader stretches the spring and presses the built-in micro switch. The supply voltage enters the heating elements. If the heater is tilted on the side, then the power of the earth's attraction to reduce the effect on the spring, the spring will remove the lever from the microswitch, the chain will break, and stop the current to enter the heating elements.

From the position sensor go two wires, white and brown. To check, it suffices to measure between them a multimeter resistance. When the heater is in a vertical position, the position sensor resistance must be zero. When tilting infinity. The position sensor was correct.

Checking the health of the thermal stitch

It remains to check the included thermal stations included, which were three and all of them were installed beyond the micrometric heater plate. A pair of wires came from the thermal constituents white color On the six pin connector, on the same as the wires from the target heater. The transversion of the multimeter showed a breakdown in the thermal stitch chains. It became clear, one of the thermal stations is faulty.

Need further disassembly of the heater. To do this, I had to remove the second side lid and the protective grid, which is removed after the shift from the screws to the side. Access to checking two self-healing thermal stations opened.

To check the thermal stuffs in one end of the multimeter, you need to touch the white wire suitable for six contact connector, and the second probe, pushing the insulation with a pressed needle to it to touch the wire connecting the thermal structures. Check showed the health of the fuses available to check. All items are checked, except for the thermal stitch behind a tarmemic heating element. So it is faulty.

I had to remove the heating element, for which it was enough to unscrew the four screws in the corners and take it to the side. The following appearance opened.

The thermal stitch was in the tube of fiberglass and was attached to the heater body with a screw with a metal clamp.

As it turned out, in the tube there was a self-repairing thermal stitch SF192E, calculated on the response temperature 133 ° C and the load current up to 10 A at a voltage of up to 250 V. An additional checking of the multimeter confirmed the thermal stitch fault.

Thermal stitch to the wires was connected by a brass strip compression. By sewed, the end of the strip from the thermal power assistant was rented, the thermal stitch will be removed and the similar G4A00 type is pressed on its place, calculated on the response temperature 128 ° C and load current up to 10 A at a voltage of up to 250 V. The temperature of the installed thermal power consist than failed. But taking into account the maximum heating of the heater housing of only 65 ° C, such a replacement will not affect the protective functions and the performance of the heater.

Before assembling the heater, all the connectors were interconnected, the multimeter probe are connected to the power plug pins and all the mode of operation of the heater are checked. The resistance in the position of the mode switch 0 was infinite, in position I amounted to 156 ohms, in position II-100 Ohm and in position III - 56 ohms, which indicated the complete operation of the heater.

After the assembly, the heater was connected to the network and confirmed its performance. The repair of the heater is over and about its malfunction resemble only traces from the tool left on plastic plugs.

Features of the repair of the heater
with ceramic heating elements

Brought me to repair, seemingly an ordinary fan heater, such as TIMBERK TFH T15DDL due to reducing heating efficiency.

When connecting the heater to the network, it was found that the fan is poorly driven by air, which was slightly warm. The heating mode switch and temperature controller functioned normally. To find a fault, a heater had to open. The first thing was removed dust, stuffed in the radiator of heating elements. The fan began to blow stronger, but the heating of the air remained weak.

The voltage measurement at the outputs of the heating elements showed the value of 220 V, which indicated the health of the electrical circuit. The value of the measured current of the fan heater consumption in the maximum heating mode was 1.1 and instead of the 8 A, which spoke about the malfunction of the heating elements.

With such a heating element, I encountered for the first time. It turned out that in this fan heater, the heating element is 14 metal ceramic plates shed between eight aluminum radiators. The entire package is inserted into the rectangular frame from the heat-resistant plastic and is held in four latches. Aluminum radiators immediately perform several tasks at once - hold ceramic heaters, heat from them and fed to metal-ceramic plates the supply voltage.

ATTENTION, due to the fact that the supply voltage is fed through aluminum radiatorTouching it when the heater plug inserted into the power outlet is dangerous for life!

For better heat removal and electrical contact, the side of metal-ceramic plates, pressed to the radiator, coated with electric thermal conducting paste.

Heating metal ceramic plates represent radio elements that are called posistors. The principle of performance of the posistor is that its resistance depends on the temperature of its heating. The more the posistor heats up, the higher its resistance, and according to the law of Ohm, the smaller will flow, and as a result, the heater will be less high with heat.

Thanks to this property, according to the developers of metal-ceramic heating elements, the balance of 300 ° C is achieved, the position resistance increases to such a value that the temperature does not increase anymore. This ensures a safe continuation of the work of the fan heater, even when she broke up and does not rotate or dried the dust blowing the air fan.

Measurement of the resistance of the heaters sections by a multimeter showed the resistance of about 1000 ohms, instead of due 112 ohms. Surprisingly it turned out that the resistance does not correspond to all metal-ceramic plates. This could only occur in the case of overheating of metal-ceramic plates, which based on the principle of their work, should not happen. It suggests that ceramic heaters have been established not appropriate quality and to restore the full performance of the fan heater will need to be replaced.

To repair the fan heater, you can buy a ready-made heating unit, a ceramic heater of type MZFR-J-1800W-220V, intended for the repair of fan heaters. His appearance dimensions And the connection scheme is shown above in the photo. It is worth MZFR-J-1800W-220V about $ 10.

Very often, heaters break at the most inopportune moment. A working device suddenly ceases to turn on. Familiar situation? Naturally, we do not know why this happens, and we want to quickly find a way out of the current situation. You can, of course, to immediately buy a new heater, but you can and repair the old one.

Before repaired, prepare everything you need:

Be sure to take a screwdriver and an ohmmeter.
You also need a bimetallic plate, a bit of vet, mascara, alcohol and a feet.
Do not forget about emery paper.

Violation of contacts

What could be the cause of breakage, if your heater suddenly stopped turning on and heated? Most often there was a violation of contact in the area of \u200b\u200bthe fork. Damage to live wires or the weakening of their attachment to the terminals also may well be the causes of the device malfunction. Naturally, we forget how casually turned to the device, because it is impossible to pull the heater for the cord to move it to another place of the room. For the movement of the device there is a special handle.

To determine the presence of damage damage and the cord, you must unscrew the panel mount nuts. Then very carefully remove the washers. First, remove the spring washers, and only then round. Put the washers in a separate box so that they are not lost. After that, remove the cover from the instrument and check all the connections.

An oxmeter is used to check the cable. This device check the voltage in the cable. Then check whether the contact screws are well delayed, the fixing ends lived in the power cable. If during the verification process you found a nagar on contacts, then you need to clean it well using emery paper. After all repair work Cord attach back to the control unit and fix the lid.

Do not think to immediately turn on the device into the outlet. Before connecting it to electrical network Verification of all parts of the heater, which conduct the current. Such a check is done with an almeter already familiar to us. When all it is checked, you can safely turn on the instrument into the outlet to check.

Pay attention to the operation of the device. Does it turn off when reaches the required heating temperature? If it is not turned off, then it is necessary to immediately turn off the oil heater from the power supply. The fact is that with excessive heating, oil heaters can sometimes explode.

Fault thermostat

If the thermostat is faults, it is necessary to remove the control block cover again. Then you need to unscrew the nut from the screw. The screw head can be fixed using a screwdriver, and then remove the washer. After that, very carefully raise anchor, we clean and wipe the thermostator contacts with alcohol. Having done all the work, carefully collect the thermostat and again check our oil heater.

Breakdown of bimetallic plate

Very often, a bimetallic plate breaks in the oil heater, and the device stops working. For repair, first of all, we disassemble the thermostat. Then set the minimum heating using the instrument handle, and remove it from the regulatory screw head. Do not forget to mark the location of this item before making the above actions.

Still contact is created by screw and nut. They must be removed to get a bimetallic plate. Remove the magnet can be removed part of the long stem of the sensor. After all the works we make a replacement plate and collect the control unit.

If nothing of the elements listed above did not help, then you need to seek help to qualified specialists.