Repair of oil heaters Polanis do it yourself. Simple repair of electrical heaters. Major faults. How the device is arranged

In independence from quality, sooner or later, almost all electrical heaters become bad to warm, do not turn on or do not warm at all.
DIFFERENT REPAIR OF THE ELECTRIC HEATER NOT MAIN MANUAL DISTRIBUTION, Since it is often not considered to be a complex device.
In everyday life, people use a wide variety of electrical electrical heaters: electrical infrared fireplaces, convectors, fan heaters and a variety of oil radiators. All such devices in independence from structural features, the heating element serves nichrome.

It should be noted that the more simpler the design of the heater, the longer such a device will work, and who makes it easier to figure out the breakdown and repair it.

Device

For rapid and efficient repairs, first of all, it is necessary to understand how the heater is arranged.
In independence, from a variety of such devices, they all have basic common elements.
Heaters are equipped with one or two keyboards with which one or two tan can be selected, as well as light bulbs indicating the operation of the TENA.
Ten can have not two contacts and three, with two separated heating spirals inside.

Immediately after a network cord with a fork, a protective thermal stitch can stand, which will automatically turn off the heater after overheating, for example, if you cover the convector on top of a towel.
An inclination sensor may also be present, which will work, if for example, the convector falls or turn over.
In addition to the thermal stitch, there can also be a "circuit breaker" - the fuse of the overload current, for other emergencies.

schematic device heaters

Diagnostics and troubleshooting of the heater

Any diagnostics begins with disassembly of the heater, but before disassembled, it must be turned off and pull out the plug from the outlet.
Remove the casing screws, most likely the control panel housing. Reaching the connecting control panel with a thermostat, thermostat and other elements, start with a network cord with a network cord.
Further check the operation of all control keys and togglers - nicking them with a tester. Then all serial chains.

Temoregulator It is checked by a tester and it must issue zero resistance (KZ) on contacts or close to zero, it will talk about the health of the thermostat.

In addition to the health of the heater elements themselves, the reason for the breakdown can be crucified in poor and unreliable contact of the conductors, over time, due to the difference of materials they are oxidized and cleared, so that in this moment you should also pay attention.
Then the protective elements are checked: the position sensor and the thermal stitch.

Thermal stitch It is nicknamed by a tester, in a good and cold condition on its contacts there should be zero resistance (KZ).
Such thermal stations can be several pieces in one case and as a rule the greater the case - the greater the thermal structures in it.
It should be noted that the thermal consistency can be both the working (serviceable) but because of the strong pollution of filters and convection holes, they can instantly work and turn off the heater.

What is it position sensorSo it is, in the salary of structures, some kind of weight that, with a slope or lowering the heater, affects a mini switch which already opens the voltage. Competitive position sensor, in the normal vertical position of the heater on its contacts should have zero resistance (KZ).
The main decisive moment will be the inspection of heating TENs. In large heaters, they are usually several, most often there are two. And often the cause of insufficient prehearance of the room there is a failure of one of the tenons.
In most cases, the TEN is not subject to repair and is replaced similar.
How to check the TEN? Resistance on its contacts may be different, depending on the specific device, but it should be unambiguously nicknamed. Exemplary resistance values \u200b\u200bcan be in the range of 20 - 100 ohms.

The main fault of heaters

The heater does not turn on.
There may be several reasons. It is necessary to check the socket, plug and electric cord. Then disassemble and make sure that the network voltage inside the device is best used to use a loading light to 40W.
Checked voltage on a serial chain, thermal stitch, thermostat, thermal switch, TEN
Checking the voltage should be carried out carefully or use the transverse method on resistance (multimeter) without voltage.

The thermalnetwtor turns on but does not warm.
The heater blows the air, but it does not heat it, this situation clearly indicates a malfunction of the Tan, one of the sections of the helix may be damaged, it is necessary to carefully examine the entire length of the nichrome conductor, and also call the tester itself, the resistance must be somewhere in the 70 ohm .
In the case of visible rupture or rejuvenation of the nichrome conductor, you can try to restore it if a little tighten the tumbled conduirers to the center to the center and gently twist with a margin to each other, then secure the "connection" back, but so that it is not shifted and not closed in the process Randomly at the neighboring spiral coils.
Also, the cause of such a work may be the thermal stuff or bimetallic plates of the thermostat. In the cold state, they must be closed, sometimes there is a need for their stripping to improve the reliability of contact. Competitive bimetallic plates from heat of the soldering iron must be swollen.

The fan heater warms but the fan does not spin (does not blow).
If the blades are good and nowhere is not cut, then most likely the reason in the engines.
But nevertheless, you first need to make sure that the engine does the voltage. It will be convinced that his shaft is easily and without effort turns.
On the engine can be checked by a multimeter, its contacts should be nicknamed and show at least some resistance.
If necessary, the motor can be disassembled and inside inside, possible pollution. Clean the windings, clean the collector node and inspect the reliability of the adjunct brushes. It may be necessary to pour the driving part of the engine with machine oil.
When winding windings, the engine must be replaced.

The heater is disabled (due to overheating)
There may be several reasons. For example, a large heating area and a low-power convector, a case and internal elements are overheated, including overheating protection elements that turn off the device.
In other cases, it may cause an incorrect installation of a convention. It is necessary to organize a free inflow of incoming air to the bottom of the heater and the free outflow of hot air from the top of the convector, there is nothing to cover it and do not create resistance to heat out from the convector.

Oil radiator flows.
DIY repair in such cases is the task of not an easy and ungrateful. Adhesives and sealants in this case are useless.
To seal the blades, it is necessary to drain the oil, pour water and with an inverter welding for thin sheets. Peel hole, after reading the place from paint and corrosion.
With constant oil flowing, it should be understood that all the same oil will need to add, since for the effective operation of such a heater, it is necessary to have 90% of the volume of oil from the total capacity of the oil "tank", the rest of the space should occupy the air, it plays the role of a kind of pillow when rosing oil Heated.

March 18, 2013, 12:46

Proceeds not a little bit away, but I am afraid that such a heater can explode, how to avoid it, can I fix it myself? Is there any a chance to repair it or better buy a new one?

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

19 Mar 2013, 09:22

Do not be afraid - it will not explode! But if it is underdiving, it is impossible to use it! The oil is not water, the hole will not drive, so it is definitely - only the repair. Carry to the service center, if not easier to buy new. You can and independently try to close, of course, but never faced, so I can not help with the Council this time.

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

March 21, 2013, 05:43

If oil leak occurs due to the depressurization of the case, then the device is needed to repair, and then, perhaps even topping the working fluid.

Such heating devices are refined only in specialized service centers. It is categorically not recommended to repair them. Remember, the temperature of the boiling oil is much higher than water.

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

Here he is our important question of modernity. And he sounds like this: the heater is faulty. Heats. And you can still use a little ???
And correctly intuitively feels the user.
What to do???
Definitely ... do not use !!! It is almost the opinion of all members of the forum. I join them.
And I still do not repair. Buy another. Repair of an apartment after a fire is incommensurable with the purchase of a new heater.

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

Anatoly wrote (a): Here he is our important issue of modernity. And he sounds like this: the heater is faulty. Heats. And you can still use a little ???

Yeah, a change classic "to be or not to be?" In the twentieth century, "who is to blame?" And "what to do?", And now questions modified before "if it is impossible, but I really want, then you can?"

Anatoly wrote (a): And I still do not repair it all. Buy another. Repair of an apartment after a fire is incommensurable with the purchase of a new heater.

Why immediately - buy another? Can I contact the service department, maybe there is 100 rubles repairs? And there will be a heater for another 5 years to serve faith and truth.
By the way, he began to leak after the end of the warranty period?

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

Still, I recommend to buy another. But it does not concern the replacement of the fork, cord or something else, what can be reached by hand. There are other types of simple breakdowns.
But here is not a simple breakdown !!!
Leather radiator is serious.
There is such a malfunction - the elimination of leaks. It is practically impossible to eliminate it yourself. After all, it is necessary not only to know the place of the leaks, but also seal the radiator and fill the missing oil.

Elimination of leaks requires special equipment, so this repair must be done in the service center.
Yeah !!! Well said!!!

And in fact, these are empty words, as there is an opinion of professionals who are engaged in the repair of oil radiators in specialized centers. I bring literally their summary:

"Repair of oil-based radiators is allowed only when faults occur associated with the power supply, replacing the feed cord and the plug of the outlet."

Want to believe, want to laugh, but this is the opinion of the pro.

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

"If it is impossible, but I really want, then you can?"

Unfortunately, this approach to our life is fraught with sad consequences. If the use of the current radiator threatens the tragedy of one person or family and in general for the whole country, unnoticed ...
Then we have a lot of trouble when it was " it is impossible, I wanted to conduct experiments on the atomic reactor for the operation of plutonium. "As a result, this is not an oil radiator, is Chernobyl.
Well, it was impossible to fly to Smolensk, but I really wanted. Again tragedy.
And this list can be continued ...

Unfortunately, " If it is impossible, but I really want, then - you can? "Is our trouble.

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

Well, Chernobyl is not Chernobyl, and repair the oil radiator, which flows, it would be better not to start. Dangerous this is the idea in the sense of consequences. It is not so expensive an oil heater is worth risking health and property, because in case of fire, the consequences will be the saddest. And if repaired ineptly, the fire is very likely!

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

The question wrote (a): ... and repair the oil radiator, which flows, it would be better not to start. Dangerous this is the idea in the sense of consequences. It is not so expensive an oil heater is worth risking health and property, because in case of fire, the consequences will be the saddest. And if repaired ineptly, the fire is very likely!

And I'm about the same ... do not play with fate.
For example, a cheap oil radiator de Longhi GS 770715 is always available. Its power adjustable 0.7, 0.8, 0.7 + 0.8 \u003d 1.5 kW, thermostat is available. It is intended for heating rooms with a volume of 45 cubic meters and costs only 1948 rubles 70 kopecks.
And where are the good intentions we all know !!!
I support common sense, I don't say that "... and repair the oil radiator, which flows, it would be better not to start."

Driving an oil heater, what to do?

Yes, such complex engineering things are better than an unprepared person not to do and not do.
But, in his experience, I can say that today there are almost no normal technology on sale, all have to bring to mind on their own. Here for example take clothes. Recently, what I will not buy - you have to change the details. Take a lamp - you have to do holes yourself for ventilation lamp, otherwise it burns in a month. In short, the raw do everything!

The oil heater failed should not be thrown away, it is possible to restore the performance of this source of additional heating on its own, not attracting specialists to work.

How the device is arranged

If the heater broke, before proceeding to its repair, it should be better familiar with his device and the principle of work.

The main parts of the oil heater is the following:

Metal case.
Heating element - Tan.
Control block.
Connecting wires.

The device works for this principle:

The housing is filled with special oil.
When the radiator is turned on, the temperature of the heating element begins to rise.
Accordingly, the oil is also heated.
Gradually, heat is passed on the walls of the case, and the room heats up.
When the temperature in the room reaches the optimal value, the control unit is triggered and the TEN is turned off.
The process is repeated throughout the entire period of the heater to connect the power supply. Thanks to this, a comfortable environment is created in the room.

Causes of the outlet of the heater

The oil heater ceases to work for various reasons, but all damage can be electrical and mechanical type.

In the first case, electrical equipment fails, it can be a TEN and elements of the control unit, including thermal structures, a thermal relay and switch. In rare cases, the failure in the work occurs due to faulty wiring.

Damage to the mechanical type involve the deformation of the housing, including the formation of shells through which oil flow can be observed. This problem is the result of the action of metal corrosion. It is very easy to determine this malfunction, in this case an oil stain is formed under the heating device.

Preparing for the repair of the heater

Before repaired the oil radiator, you should create certain conditions. It is this step that will be the key to quality repairs. First of all, it is necessary to prepare a place where equipment analysis will be performed. The main condition at the same time - space and good lighting. Repair of the heater can be performed in a garage or any separate room.

Next you need to prepare a set of tools for work and various devices. Tools will require the most ordinary, since the heater has a pretty simple device. When performing repair work at hand, there must be screwdrivers, passage, plumbings, hammer and selo. In addition, you may need a soldering iron, tester, lubricant and pure rag. If the reason for the radiator breakage is already known, then it is better to purchase a spare part in advance.

Repair process

Each host upon failure of the device additional heating is asked how to return to the operation of broken equipment. The solution to the issue is quite simple and consists of several points:

Regardless of the type of work performed, before disassembling the oil radiator, you need to disconnect it from the power supply.
The device then need to disassemble and consider the oil radiator scheme to understand why it does not work. For this purpose, disconnect the control panel from the main body. As a fastener in this case, latches, screws and brackets can be used, so it is important to carry out a thorough visual inspection. After determining the type of fastening, the control panel is removed. It is very important not to make special efforts in order not to break the plastic elements.
Restoring the operation of the oil heater begins with checking the network cord and switch. Sometimes the oil heater does not work due to the cliff of the wire cord. You can check the accuracy of this using the tester. As for the switch, here the reason is the impairment of the contact, which is the result of burning wires in the connection places. To solve the problem, the wires are disconnected and cleaned, they also exploit the place of attachment. Next, the switch is assembled and check the recovered contact using the tester.
At the next step, they examine all contact connections of the control unit. Each contact detects oxidized or burnt places, as well as places of weakened fastening. Repair is performed using screwdrivers and grinding skins. In some cases, they use a soldering iron that soldered off wiring.

If a thermal relay or temperature control is faulty, you need to carefully remove these elements and disassemble them. The inside the bimetallic plate is pulled out and replaced the new element. There can be no other faults in these details. The new plate restores the operability of the relay or thermostat.
The thermal stuffs are checked for health with the tester, in the event of a malfunction, they are replaced with new elements. Check follows each of the existing thermostats.
If the oily heater does not heat, then the cause can be a faulty heating element. To check the state of the Tan also use the tester. With it, the resistance is measured, the normal value of which should be equal to 1 to whom. The deviation from this value indicates a malfunction of the Tane and the time of its replacement.

After passing all the steps of checking the electrical parts of the oil radiator, you can proceed to the elimination of mechanical damage.

The most relevant problem is the flow of oil from the radiator body. To solve it, it is necessary to disassemble the device and drain the remains of the oil. Performing the inspection of the body for damage, it is important to accurately set the place of the leaks. Here, with the help of grinding skins, sweeping is performed, as a result of which the size of the opening is determined. This depends on the repair method. If the size of the opening is small, and there are no traces of corrosion around, it is possible to open the hole with a small self-tapping screw or screw.

Also for the repair of oil radiators, you can use the special sealant "Cold Welding". For convenient use, the material is pre-softened in their hands to the plastic state. The sealant is rolled into the ball and make a hole with them, thoroughly throwing on the surface. To make the sealant fully hardened, you need to wait about 20 minutes. After that, you can turn on the heater.

A hole formed by rust is harder. The damaged place is also cleaned with a sandpaper, removing rust to the base metal. After that, inspection and determine the size of the opening. A small hole can be sought using brass solder, not tin. On more extensive damage impose a patch and weld it with a semi-automatic type welding equipment. The process is complicated by the fact that it requires special equipment and skills to work with it.

You can repair oil radiators with your own hands, for this you need to have minimal skills in the maintenance and electrical business. Especially since the repair of a minor breakage will cost cheaper than buying a new device for heating the premises.

Bimetallic plates perform the basis! Household heating devices were marked, the electric kettle was conquered, right under the button were settled. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, the device turns off, waiting for the desired point of time, adjusted by the ferry, vigorous click. Oil heaters are equipped with a similar mechanism, more complicated. More reminds seen in the iron, mostly old modification. The screw mechanism is driven by the thermostat handle, pressing the contact is stronger-weaker to the bimetallic plate (slightly simplified interpretation, but the approximate meaning is as follows). They say, it is better to see once, rather than a hundred times try ... hear. Meet fresh photos until the model copied competitors. The story about the repair of the oil heater will be relying on the pictures taken.

The device of the simplest oil heater

Oil heater is well riveted with clothes to dry. The only type of instruments where the owner avoid fatal consequences. The only one, on the side of the harmonic capacity there is an extension equipped with electronic filling, avoid stolen. The oil heater device includes the following items:

Emergency shutdown sensor (thermal stitch, relay)

Capacity filled with oil. The appearance is the harmonica poured to a decent temperature, let it touch the hand. As for the drying of things, we carry outlessly carry the heating. The tank is sealed, but inside the air of 15%. Try to put the oil heater up the legs, pour out the side, return the load wheels. Heard deaf blows scare mice: air bubbles are bursting inside. Water is not used by the heater, quickly evaporates, corrosion of the body will become significant, the manufacturing technology would require a complete exception from the air fluid (water + oxygen \u003d the most powerful oxidizing agent of wildlife). The coefficient of temperature expansion of the most common liquid of the planet ten times exceeds the same steel parameter. Not good if the tank breaks.
The lower part of the accordion of the harmony contains a TEN to which the electronics compartment pours. Oil heater is deprived of the pump, works by natural oil recirculation. The current starts from the Tan up, then at the opposite end of the battery, the fluid descends. Working, makes distinguishable hearing vibration spirals under the action of alternating voltage. The effect is disappointed, due to the influence of the magnetic field of the Earth. Boiling temperature above 100 ºС (150-200), Avoid tight to the container, before changing the phase state, the liquid is not brought by prohibiting the use of water: the container will break. TEN Double (two spirals) will allow flexible to adjust the heating.
Not far from Tan is the thermal power consistant. The device will not let the fire happen if suddenly the oil follows, the temperature relay will break. The oil heater would work hard when the copper Ten would start melting. Oil existence - through the housing, the high temperature will trigger the triggered thermal stuff. The structure is distinguished by bimetallic (reusable) or wire (disposable). The photo shows the presence of a distinctly inside tablet above the Tan: the thermal stuff (see the first photo of the review), or the thermaller (defined by the design).

Steel profile providing compartment compartment of electronics and heater harmonic

The relay is located at the top. The main difference from the iron is visible: missing contact with the case. It can be seen, the thermal relay just tramples the air. The oil heater is recent reminiscent of the electric kettle, in which the bimetallic plate is often exposed to a steam penetrating through a special housing hole. The thermal relay is the adjustment mechanism, the thermal power conspicuous is designed to localize the case of refusal of standard means.
Snapshots show: Two switches, to everyone approaches the phase, the lands of the Tan, one thermal relay wire. Such redundancy allows the indicator light bulbs. One phase is not enough to provide the Joule-Lenz effect. The manufacturer does not know in advance which side of the user turns a plug, whether the blue (red) wire is reset, exposed to 230 volts.

The electrical part differs little from the iron, electric kettle, water heater. You can include both steam spirals at the same time, separately. In the latter case, the oil heater will reach the longer mode. There is a chance, in the cold room, the design will work at all without a break.

Researcher of the Earth's magnetic field listens to the buzz of the spiral of the oil heater

Close the airway openings in the electronic circuit - nothing burns, the oil heater will turn off ahead of time, repeated launch will not happen soon, the trunk of fresh jet will prevent the dried woolen sock. The bottom of the casing of the electronic unit is cut by the supply slots. The air leaves the floor, follows, bypassing the wires, reaching the upper exit. Along the way, the bimetallic plate estimates the moment of stopping heating.

Disassemble the oil heater

Photos of the oil heater are shown: the electronic unit is spilled in one whole with the harmonica. This is not true. The inscription "Do not hide" hides a pair of screws, the fastening bracket is held by the spring located in the bottom part. It is clearly seen by the naked eye, explanations of unnecessary:

spring is unfastened;
bolts are unscrewed.

Inside the oil heater housing, most electrical connections are made by detachable terminals. If necessary, remove the switches, a bimetallic relay, unscrewing the screws from the inside, opening the wires. Please note: TEN is rooted. Shows the desire of the manufacturers, not to allow no one.

Sly technician knows how to get acquainted

Basic breakdowns of oil heaters

Especially breaking the TEN, the tank flows. The oil heater comes in complete disrepair. The relay will serve for years. Today, the Soviet irons are common, it is worked up. Repair the mechanism is impossible. Clean the alcohol needed the oxidized. Repair of electronic filling is limited to the replacement of elements mainly. Thermal structures are brought to repair: it is difficult to calculate the response temperature. Masters avoid taking responsibility. Keys, relays at times should be cleaned.

The main thing is to replace the Tan, oil, repairing slots. Those who wish to take should know: in the tank, they certainly spare air. Plays the role of the pillow when the oil begins to expand. Cuts the tank from the rupture. When replacing, the transformer oil is used, it does not fit, it will cause an ingestion of a tan.

Synthetic varieties are incompatible with mineral. Old-timers of automotive forums can well check out well. The mechanism is cleaned by oil, if there is no confidence, which type is flooded inside to repair.

Avoid soldering the tank. Take the solder not tin - brass, copper-phosphoric, silver, use the burner. Suitable equipment repairman refrigerators. Inside the tank is recommended to pour water, avoiding fire. Accordingly, after work, the container must dry. Oil before the fill is evaporated with a temperature of 90 ºС. Persistently warm the liquid, straighten - will begin to oxidize, burn. Of course, you can grind the oil. Thin trickle is passed by a chute having a negative temperature. The oil is poured by 90% of the oil heater capacitance, can be measured by any available method, water.

How to remove the TEN depends on the design. There are information about collapsible and unintended versions. Try to pick up the heating element of similar power. The shell is made of copper tubes. Tank oil heaters steel, there is a probability of corrosion caused by the formation of a galvanic pair.

Small holes are allowed to screw up bolts. Running the shtackers, the heat-resistant sealant is used. It's hard to avoid leaks. One sealant does not cost, the heating-cooling cycles will cause cracks. No wonder the housing is made by the harmonica. The structure of the metal extinguishes the lion's share of deforming loads.

Listed the main types of faults. Independent repair of oil heaters, when it comes to the samples, is a task of time-consuming, ungrateful. However, we have at hand inverter welding thin sheets, sling localize. It is important to remove, rearing the layer of rust, places that are corrosion, give a seam to cling. Oil leakage repair has a chance of success.

Silent drop sensors. The input of the electrical circuit of the oil heater is preceded, with a certain roll, turn off the power of the instrument. Check the operation of the item is not difficult. Put the side, sound contacts. Repair of the oil heater drop sensor is not justified by the risk provoked by improper execution of operations. Along with the thermal stitch, we see an element that ensures the safety of operation. Information relating to the repair is set out, we hope the story is useful to novice masters. The pros themselves know how to eliminate the problem.

Oil-filled electrodulators are popular units characterized by high durability, as their production is carried out in industrial environments using modern technologies. However, these electrical appliances are not designed to oppose all abnormal situations in everyday life and still fail.

The device even the most modern unit allows in some cases to repair oil heaters on their own.

Household oil-filled heating electrical appliances: on the left - flat, right - ribbed.

Consider this popular household heater in the view of estimating the possibility of its recovery after failure, since it is necessary to repair the oil heater with a guarantee of safety of its further operation.

Common malfunctions of the oil heater, their signs and methods of repair

Eliminating the malfunction of the oil-filled electrotane, as well as the repair of an infrared heater of any other kind, requires certain skills and compliance with a number of rules.

Important!When an outflow of any of the elements of the oil heater design elements, the heater operation must be stopped before troubleshooting.

The actual image of one of the oil heaters with an exterior equipment list of devices

First of all, it should be aware that the restoration of the performance of most components of this heating device at home is impossible or requires professional knowledge and skills. Experimentation with the failed electrical hubs is fraught with unpredictable consequences (electrician, thermotramma, fire, explosion), so repairing the oil heater with their own hands, without having professional training, in most cases it follows only by replacing the details that have become unusable.

In addition, when repairing the electro repair, it is necessary to perform the following rules:

the device must be turned off out of the outlet;
the heater must be cooled to room temperature;
equipment of the device homemade components are prohibited;
contact of transformer oil with a body should be avoided, as well as with the insulation of the wiring;
replacing the standard network electrocabel with grounding residential wire without grounding is prohibited.

Leakage of oil

The disruption of the tightness of the oil radiator is usually occurs when it is mechanically damaged or as a result of corrosion caused by a defectory of a protective paint and varnish coating.

When a long time used, the usual oil radiator drops, the natural question arises, what to do, why not try to restore his tightness with your own hands?

However, the repair of the infrared heater on its own in the event of a leakage is possible only under the condition that the device is the unit of domestic production of an old sample with a steel radiator of flat design and a removable Tane.

Flat oil electric power supplies of domestic production with steel radiators

For the production of repair from the device, the control unit is disconnected under which the TEN is located. Then the heater is filtered after disconnecting the contacts, and the oil through the mounting socket is merged into the clean capacity. The residues of oil give drain, after which the radiator is filled with water to eliminate the ignition inside it oil.

The thickness of the walls of such radiators is 1-1.2 mm, which allows the use of electrical welding. The place of leakage on the housing is cleaned with a grinder with a grinding disc or manually - coarse emery paper. Depending on the place and size of the damage, the latch is cut out of the steel of the corresponding thickness, it is applied to the hole and evaluate using the Kemppi semiautoma.

Kemppi devices of different models for semi-automatic electric welding in living conditions

The welding seam is cleaned and grind, after which, if necessary, cope once again. After degreasing, the repair point is painted with heat-resistant paint, for example, Rustins High Heat Black Pain.

Important!If the heater is painted in powder technology, then in the production of repair work, it is necessary to strive for minimal damage to the coating - it is impossible to restore it in domestic conditions.

Heat-resistant paint Rustins High Heat Black Pain in Pausal Small Volume

After drying, the radiator is filled with 80% oil, and the heater is collected in reverse order.

If the oil heater before repairing the repair, when heated, it is not necessary to expect that clicks will disappear after the restoration of the tightness - the interface of the parts of the housing is deformed by increasing the temperature and are crackled.

Repair of radiators of ribbed oil heaters is not advisable, as they are made of thin sheet steel using laser welding. The restoration of the tightness of such tanks is technically difficult, in domestic conditions does not guarantee success or costs compared with the cost of a new heater. In addition, if the TEN is unable, then it is possible to drain the oil through damage, but it will not be possible to pour it back.

No heating

Technically serviceable oil-filled household heater when inclusion in the network quietly cracks. This factor is not dangerous, as it is due only to the expansion of the collector body of the unit, which is tickling when heated.

If after turning on the unit and install the necessary power values \u200b\u200band temperature, the heating device is neuturn, it means that the heating of the radiator does not occur, and the malfunction should be signed in the electrical part.

First of all, visually examine the integrity of the electrocable. If there is no visible damage, it is necessary to first dismantle from the bottom of the housing of the rack aggregate with wheels.

Then you need to disconnect the control unit from the radiator, for which it is raised on it from above, a regular plate with a DO NOT COVER inscription is removed, which is the fastener screws.

Place the placement of fastening of screw control unit to the case

Unscrewing the fastening from above, at the bottom of the control unit also give screws or remove locking springs (depending on the model), with the edge of the block joint with the radiator, they remove the shell, and the dismantled node is placed in the inside of the outside.

Sequence of dismantling the control unit from the oil heater housing

A visual inspection of the integrity of the wiring and isolation, as well as the quality of contacts in the connecting places of the wires, paying attention to the sections with breaks and oxidation. The wire with obvious internal damage is replaced with a new, oxidized contacts are disassembled, cleaned with sandpaper and they are bought again.

Upon completion of the visual inspection, it is embarked on the "sound" components with the help of a tester - a multimeter, which is started with testing the vehicle area from the fork to the nearest connection. The operation is simplified by different colors lived in the electrical appliance cable, which makes it easy to track the direction of wiring.

The tester sound signal indicates the integrity of the nicknamed area, the absence of the signal is damaged.

The initial stage of the ring of oil heater with the help of a multimeter - a plot from the fork to the Tan

Replacement of tubular heater

TEN, except for the heating elements, is equipped outside the fuses for current and temperature, the presence of which must be taken into account when dial. The likelihood of a situation is not excluded when, with a good tan, one of these fuses burned out, or both have failed.

Tan fuses: Left - at temperature, right - by current

If testing still revealed the failure of a tubular heater, then further actions depend on the method of installing a Tan in the radiator. Threaded fastening of the heater in the absence of rolling allows you to replace it. In this case, the TEN is unscrewed from the radiator, and instead of it with the replacement of the sealing gasket, a heater is installed with identical parameters for power and a disconnection temperature.

Tubular Electron Heater Installation Method for Heating Unit

If the installation is unavailable, the heater is spilled in the radiator socket. In the domestic conditions, the collapse of the old and install a new Ten, having completed its hermetic rolling rolling, is very difficult, so you should think about buying a new oil heater.

Temperature controller malfunction

Testing this node is performed as follows:

the plot of the chain from the plug to the thermostat;
the regulator is set to a minimum temperature value and test - the chain must be open;
during the inclusion of each of the heaters individually, as well as two TANs simultaneously when the temperature controller is set to different from zero, the chain must be closed.

View from the inside of the thermostat of the household oil heater SINBO with a power of 2 kW

If the thermostat call has shown its malfunction, that is, the oil heater does not respond to switching power modes or a change in temperature by turning the flywheel, the device must be replaced, since the diagnosis of its technical characteristics, followed by repair on the results of the inspection in industrial conditions, is not appropriate, but do it in Domestic conditions are extremely difficult.

In the absence of faults, the regulator is purified from dust, and the contacts are pulled up.

Failure of a bimetallic plate

The question is whether the oil heater can explode, relevant, since the oil pressure in the radiator reaches high values, and the airbag in the form of 20% of its volume has a limited potential. That this does not happen, there is a thermoster in the design of the heater, which should turn off the heater when overheating.

Under normal conditions, this relay, which is a bimetallic plate, should slow down the electrical circuit. If the multimeter states the chain break in this thermal stitch, it should also be replaced with a new one with identical characteristics.

Oil-filled heater thermorel and appearance

Oil heaters explode extremely rarely precisely because they have several degrees of protection, duplicating each other, and the likelihood of simultaneous failure of all devices providing safety, small.

No disconnection of the heater when tipping

The opening of the electrical circuit when the oil heater is tilted or its overturning is provided by the device, the principle of operation is based on the presence in its design of the suspended weight, which, when the unit deflects from the vertical, retains its position.

Optional Oil Heater Equipment Device for Disposable Chain When Tilting the Device - Metal Gir Art

Testing this device is performed by deviation of the heater from the vertical manually. If the device turns off does not occur, the element must be cleaned of dust and discourage, and it is better to replace the new one, the installation of which is not possible.

It should be noted that when the protective switch is out of failure, the oil heater does not explode - with overheating of non-oil coated with oil, the thermal protection of the tubular heater is triggered, or the electrical circuit opens the thermal.

Conclusion

Oil radiator - a device that independently diagnose a malfunction is quite realistic, but the repair of this device is better minimized to replacing the details of the details new, since the features of operation (the danger factor of the use of electric current, high pressure and oil temperature) require professional skills and elevated attention to the performance of work.

A video will help the best idea of \u200b\u200bthe repair of oil-filled IR heaters:

The main essence of the article

Oil-filled heater - in demand by consumers an aggregate, the design of which does not contain complex technical solutions.
All malfunctions of the oil radiator can be diagnosed on their own, but most of the details have become replaced by new ones.
If the radiator happens, the restoration of the tank tightness will be effective only for the heaters of the flat design of domestic production.
Experiments with the restoration of components failed are dangerous, in most cases the installation of new parts is necessary - real examples, when the oil heater exploded, there is enough.
Proper care for IR heaters and compliance with the rules of operation is the key to the long-term use of heaters without the need to repair.