Bedside table with your own hands: detailed instructions from the master. Bedside table: types, features of the product and manufacturing technology, schemes DIY bedside table with rope shelves

A bedside table in a bedroom or any other room is a necessary attribute of furniture. You can buy a ready-made cabinet along with a set of other furniture, but, as a rule, its cost is unreasonably high. To create an original, individual piece of furniture with minimum expenses, you can try your hand at self-manufacturing pedestals. To have an idea of how to make a nightstand with your own hands, you need to have information about necessary materials and tools, as well as step-by-step work.

When making a nightstand for the first time, you need to start with the simplest option. This is a versatile wooden cabinet that is suitable for placement in a bedroom, office or living room. Other options, such as a TV stand, will require more time and effort to make.

Bedside tables made of solid wood can have different sizes

Instruments

To make a bedside table with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

jigsaw;
end saw;
Sander;
roulette;
sandpaper;
pencil;
drill or screwdriver;
Screwdriver Set.

Instruments

In addition, you will need a cutter for loops with a diameter of 35 mm, a set of bits with a hexagon for confirmations, the diameter of the holes for which should be at least 8 mm, when located at the end - 5 mm. You will need an iron to glue the edges on the end parts wooden parts. The edge can be bought at any hardware store, fitting it to the color of the lumber from which the cabinet is made. It has an adhesive side, which is applied to the end, and ironed on top with a hot iron through a dry rag or any rag. The excess edge is removed with a knife.

In addition to the above tools, you will need a carpenter's "right angle" with a measuring ruler. To connect the shelves and side walls, you can use a special tool for installing dowel joints. This tool helps to drill holes in the side shelves with a drill along the installed dowels. To do this, pre-drill holes in the ends and install dowels. On the reverse side of the shelves, markings are made in order not to confuse them during assembly. Then the shelves are applied to the attachment points, after which holes are made.

materials

To understand how to make bedside tables with your own hands in a standard size, you need to know what you need:

4 panels of chipboard or other material measuring 45x70 cm for the manufacture of the top, bottom and side parts;
8 boards for making a frame 7x40 cm in size;
4 panels of chipboard or other material for the manufacture of boxes measuring 17x43.5 cm.
dowels 2x1.8 cm and screws 4x1.6 cm;
if confirmations with a size of 5x70 mm are used, they must be purchased in the amount of 22 pieces;
joiner's glue;
acrylic sealant;
wood stain.

It is worth preparing all the elements in advance

The choice of material for the manufacture of cabinets varies depending on the budget. Chipboard is considered the most low-cost material.

At choice of chipboard as the material for the manufacture of the bedside table, it is necessary to pay attention to the degree of its humidity, which can lead to curvature finished product. The cabinet can also be made from natural wood, MDF, plywood or laminate. For the manufacture of dowels, cranial bars, wooden guides, frame drawers, countertops, it is recommended to use hardwoods - oak, beech or birch. The thickness of the boards for the manufacture of the frame is from 12 to 40 mm, depending on the functionality of the bedside table, its load. The back side of the structure is usually made of chipboard with a thickness of 4-6 mm, if a serious load is not expected on the bottom of the boxes, they can also be made of this material. To finish the material, you can use a self-adhesive film in the color and texture that matches the rest of the furniture in the room, covered with acrylic lacquer. For natural wood stain or colorless impregnation is used.

If the cabinet is made with drawers with your own hands, you need to purchase special fittings for them - guide mechanisms. As an alternative to guides, as more affordable, L-shaped planks made of wood can serve, which are attached to the side walls of the bedside table from the inside in those places where the drawers will be.

If the cabinet is equipped with a door, it is necessary to prepare hinges for their fastening. Elevator mechanisms are used to ensure the opening of the door by pressing. In order to prevent the door from opening spontaneously, you can equip the nightstand with a magnetic latch.

As supporting fittings, you can use stationary or height-adjustable legs, as well as wheels. Convenient are the wheels with a bearing mechanism that can spin in different sides. Such fittings are useful for a nightstand in the living room. For doors and drawers, you also need to purchase handles for opening. The number of handles, hinges, guides depends on the number of drawers and doors.

Do-it-yourself metal fittings necessary for making a bedside table

Manufacturing steps

Before you make a cabinet, you need to decide on its shape and size. It can be a cabinet with a door, several drawers, with an open shelf, or a combined type. Then you need to draw up drawings that will help you make accurate blanks.

Part preparation

When the schemes with the exact dimensions applied are ready, you can start producing blanks for the cabinet. First, a sketch of cardboard blanks is applied to a tree, then a contour is cut out exactly with the dimensions applied. An inaccuracy in the size of the cut out elements can bring all the work to nothing. A high-quality saw cut of wooden parts will be provided by an electric jigsaw. Then all the details are processed grinder to ensure smooth edges. If the design is not planned to be decorated with a self-adhesive film, at this stage it is worth treating all the details of the bedside table with stain.

After processing the cut parts, you can start drilling holes for fasteners and accessories. When sampling for hinges, it must be taken into account that the distance from the edge of the facade to the central part of the hole should be 22 mm. For loops with landing size 35 mm markings are made on the top and bottom of the door. To fix the shelf, you need to drive 4 dowels onto the sides of the cabinet (two on each of the sidewalls). Holes for dowels are made on the upper, lower part of the wall and on the upper end. If a do-it-yourself cabinet is made for a sink, a hole is cut out on the countertop where the sink will be fixed suitable diameter.

All necessary holes are prepared in the details

Assembly

Before you make a cabinet with your own hands, you need to assemble it wooden frame: rails 7 cm wide are fastened together with screws or screws, forming a rectangular frame. The corners of the frame must be straight, this is checked with the appropriate measuring tool. Then the upper part of the nightstand - the tabletop is attached to the rectangular frame. For reliability, the attachment points are additionally coated with carpentry glue. After assembling the upper part, the sidewalls are assembled, last of all, the back and front walls.

Rails are attached to the inside of the frame. The box itself is assembled as follows:

the made blank for the box is placed on flat surface, with the help of a confirmatory drill, holes are made for confirmations;
the case is twisted from blanks for the box. At this stage, it is important to check with a square the correctness of the corners of the structure;
the bottom of the box is assembled from fiberboard - it is laid on a frame of planks, nailed with small carnations of 25 mm;
on the lower corner connections guides are attached.

The end of the main process, how to make a nightstand with your own hands, is the fastening of handles, legs or wheels, as well as the decorative design of the finished product.

Fasten the bar to the side panel

All strips are attached at the same distance

The second side panel is installed on top

Finished frame

Top panel fixing

Preparing the peg

To mount the peg, you will need wood glue

Mounting peg

Frame with top panel

Marking for guides

Mounting rails

Guide adjustment

Installation result

Drawer side panel

Drawer frame

Fixing the bottom of the box

Bedside table without front panels

Finished bezels

Applying adhesive under the front panels

decoration

A bedside table with your own hands can become an original decoration of the room. To do this, it can be designed in various styles. For example, create a nightstand classical style you can, if you use paint in pastel shades (yellow, sand, pale pink, light green). In this case, the ends of the pedestal are made in white, and the color individual elements, including top and door. On the door you need to attach wooden or plastic moldings, and on the countertop - a piece of glass or transparent plastic cut to size. Moldings must be painted in a color that differs in tone from the color of the facade.

When decorating a bedside table, it is necessary to take into account the style and decoration of the entire room so that the product does not stand out from the overall design.

Instead of decorating the finished product, you can use the original ideas for making bedside tables from improvised materials:

bedside table from old suitcases: for this you need old suitcase, which is attached to the frame with legs. Outer case can be painted or decorated with decoupage technique.
console from the old table - for this you need the old coffee table from which half is sawn off. The second half is attached to the wall, painted in a bright color. In addition, you can use old box from desk, just attaching it to the wall - you get an unusual hanging pedestal.
a small wooden ladder, a barrel, a chair, a stack of books tied with a belt - all this can be used as bedside tables.

Bedside table is a diverse concept. It can be a bedside container for newspapers and a tea mug or a huge TV stand with built-in speakers and an electronic rotary system to attract the viewer's attention. Such a simple concept - and an infinite number of options. A do-it-yourself bedside table is made quite simply, but it is important to decide on the necessary design. My friend needed a cabinet for the kitchen with one top drawer. Please.

The appearance of the manufactured bedside table

For the manufacture of nightstands are needed

Here I give a list of tools that it would be better to keep in constant readiness for everyone, along with a fishing rod, a favorite gun and chess:

Drill driver. The battery will be optimal if there is also a puncher on the farm.
Set of drills. In this case, wood.
Bit set. If you want to assemble furniture with your own hands, the set should include a bit, which is a hexagon for confirmations.
Cutter for hinges 35 mm in diameter.
Iron.
Roulette.
Pencil.
Carpentry tool called "right angle", with a measuring ruler.
Sandpaper, dry cloth.

I’ll immediately note about the iron and other objects that are not clear from the first time. Since you will be forced to order sawing on the side (a chipboard sheet measuring 1830x2440 mm is the smallest), it makes sense to save on edge gluing. Now on sale is a 0.5 mm thick melamine edge in the color of the material, which is easy to glue yourself. Since it is with an adhesive base, it is enough to attach it to the desired end with the beautiful side up and iron it with a heated iron. With a dry rag, we press the still hot edge to achieve a good grip. Excess edges are removed with a blunt knife and the edges are processed with sandpaper.

Bedside table detailing

A do-it-yourself cabinet may differ in content, functionality and appearance. It largely depends on the amount you are willing to spend on fittings. Here I am writing the details of the simplest and cheapest pedestal. Drawer without skids, facades - laminated chipboard.

772x500 - 2 pcs., cabinet sidewalls.
368x500 - 2 pcs., bottom and shelf.
368x100 - 3 pieces, plinth and two upper strips.
480x110 - 2 pcs., drawer sides.
334x110 - 2 pcs., box front and rear walls.
150x395 - drawer front.
515x395 - cabinet door.

All dimensions are for chipboard 16 mm thick.

We take a special, kitchen countertop, 28 mm thick. Its size is 525x400 mm.

Fiberboard for the back wall of the cabinet and the bottom of the drawer:

670x395 mm - rear wall.
475x365 mm - the bottom of the box.

I have already written how to glue the edge, now it's time to prepare the parts for assembly. The main fasteners for us are confirmations, under which it is necessary to drill holes. We drill into the plane with a diameter of 8 mm, into the end of the parts - with a diameter of 5 mm. The figure shows which parts are drilled into the end, and which into the plane - simply based on the overall design of the pedestal.

Bedside table assembly scheme

List of required fittings

A do-it-yourself nightstand is also ours business card in front of everyone who doubted our abilities, so even in inexpensive option fasteners must be taken as seriously as possible. We buy in the furniture fittings store:

Confirmations 5x70 - 22 pieces. It is enough to fasten the clamping bars and the plinth by one confirmation on each side.
Self-tapping screws 4x30 - packaging. They will come in handy for other jobs around the house, but specifically here they are needed in order to screw the countertop to the upper slats, and the drawer front to the front wall of the drawer box. All of this comes from within.
Self-tapping screws 4x16 - packaging. These are fasteners for hinges and hardboard (DVP). You should buy with a secret hat, and also deepen it into the bottom of the box - so as not to scratch the shelf.
Furniture hinges - 2 pcs. Since the milling cutter is 35 mm in diameter, we also buy the corresponding loops.
Furniture handles - 2 pcs. On the front of the drawer, it is better to additionally buy screws for handles, 35 mm long.

Scheme of assembling the drawer of our curbstone

Making a bedside table

It is better to coordinate the manufacture of bedside tables of such a model with friends or acquaintances - simply because two and a half pieces can be made from a chipboard sheet. The assembly is so simple that you can start selling "extra" cabinets. For the full satisfaction of potential customers and your own, screw furniture legs, the so-called “hooves”, onto the sidewalls from below. They will help to put the cabinet on uneven floor. Adjustable feet this type can also be found in specialized stores selling furniture fittings.

Finished nightstand

We have already understood how to make a bedside table with our own hands in general terms - it remains to take into account two very important technical points.

Selection for loops. One constant to remember: The distance from the front edge to the center of the hinge hole is always 22 mm. Naturally, for loops with a landing size of 35 mm. Above and below the door, it is usually marked at the level of 60-80 mm - this is not critical, if not design features. Then you can simply attach the facade with screwed hinges to the sidewall on desired height and fasten to the body.
Right angles. When assembling a drawer or cabinet box, always check the geometric correctness of the resulting parallelepiped. Otherwise, the product will turn out to be lopsided and with badly opening facades.

That's all, good luck with your work.

Cabinet, i.e. a rigid, durable structure capable of carrying loads as a whole is the main unit of cabinet furniture. Sometimes it transforms and hides, but it's always there. Incl. and in the form of an independent product - nightstands - suitable for a variety of applications in the home. In this form, it does not stand out in the interior, and in the utility rooms its appearance can be somehow out of hand, if only it was strong. Therefore, it is from the bedside table that the novice furniture maker needs to get close to cabinets, beds, chests of drawers, furniture sets and walls.

The bedside table, with all the variety of design and construction, has a place to be, in general, in the following guises, see Fig.:

Bedside cabinet, pos. one. Unsightly without painstaking finishing, but durable, tk. assembled on a frame. It allows, on the one hand, to do without a sheathing, which is important for balcony bedside tables, or to make it easily removable, which is no less important for a bedside table in the bathroom. On the other hand, a solid tabletop can be applied to the frame, which will come in handy in a garage, barn or workshop.

Bedside table-chest of drawers, pos. 2, lives mainly in kitchens, nurseries and dressing rooms: you can put a lot of stuff in it, and taking out the boxes is easy to clean or repair. This is already a product of a panel structure with walls and shelves that make up a single power circuit. The usual dimensions of the chest of drawers, see fig. on right.

Volumetric cabinets, racks, pos. 3, and cabinets, pos. 4, more suitable in the living room, bedroom, hallway, office or common nursery. The design is also panel.

Extremely simplified nightstand-rack, pos. 5, it can be bedside, but most often it complements a coffee table in a soft corner of the living room.

Bedside tables are more combined. For example, the product in pos. 6 below is a locker, above it is a chest of drawers from the 1st drawer, and above it is a rack from the 1st half-closed and 1st open shelves. Combined cabinets due to their versatility are the most common.

How are pedestals made?

Factory-made bedside tables are assembled, as a rule, on furniture self-tapping self-tapping screws and / or eccentric connectors. They are collected either in trade organizations before the sale, or home buyers on their own. With a different technological cycle, the production of such a simple product, like a nightstand, will be unprofitable. But, when making a cabinet for yourself, it is better to use more labor-intensive, but cheap, reliable and durable connections of the “wood on wood” class; at least for load-bearing parts.

To make a cabinet with your own hands, you need, firstly, to master 2 types furniture joints: groove-thorn (groove-comb, tongue-and-groove connection) and on dowels. For example, the frame of the cabinet, see fig. on the right, it is assembled from 4 lower tsargs, 4 drill (vertical) tsars and also 4 upper tsargs. The upper and lower sides can be front / rear and side, i.e. different.

The tsargs forming the frame are connected by tongue-and-groove joints; the shelves are stacked on support bars, also embedded in the front tsargi on spikes in the grooves. Properly made with wedging, tongue-and-groove joints in such a small item as a nightstand will not require the expense of glue.

Pedestals of panel construction (all except pos. 1) are assembled on dowels with gluing. Supports for shelves are also made dowel. Only guides for drawers are fixed with metal hardware.

To make a drawer for a nightstand or cabinet, you will have to master a type of tongue-and-groove connection - a drawer. General sequence its working operations are shown in Fig.:

Well, a more complete picture will give a selection of videos:

Video: box connection completely by hand using a conventional jigsaw

Video: box connection with an electrified tool

Video: dovetail connection on a conventional circular

The last video may be useful to those who, over time, having improved in carpentry skills, decide to work on order. Furniture assembled on a dovetail is highly valued by connoisseurs, but on condition: the tails must be handmade, not milled on an automatic machine. And the method shown there gives tails that are neat, but completely artisanal. In addition, knowing how to connect parts to a dovetail, you can try yourself in an equally profitable area - the restoration of old furniture.

Straight tenon-groove joints are usually assembled with glue, but you can do otherwise. To do this, vertical blind holes are drilled at the corners of the box from the side (4 at the top and 4 at the bottom, 8 in total) with a depth of 2-4 spikes and a diameter of 2.5-3 mm. Studs made of bamboo or beech are tightly driven into the holes. They “spike” the box after fitting the parts and finishing the assembly.

Nightstand drawer

The device of a furniture drawer is shown in fig. on right. The bottom is made of plywood 3-5 mm thick, depending on the desired strength. Please note: the front of the drawer is not included in its power circuit, it is an overhead part. To do it differently - from pushing in / pulling out, the box will warp over time or even break apart. Drawers are made from boards with a thickness of 12 mm or plywood from 6 mm. The box is assembled with a box connection.

It is advisable to take hard and durable wood for cranial bars: oak, birch. However, if you have a wood router, you can put the bottom easier and stronger: select a groove in the drawers at the bottom along the contour and insert the bottom into it during assembly. The distance of the lower edge of the groove from the bottom of the box is from 3 mm for solid small-layer industrial wood and not less than the thickness of the drawer side for an array of soft rocks; groove depth - from 4 mm, but not more than 1/2 of the thickness of the side.

The facades of the boxes are internal, pos. And on the trail. fig., or external, pos. B. Interior façades are more elegant but require finer fitting. Mechanically, there is no significant difference between them.

Facades and homemade furniture drawer guides

Wooden guides for drawers are made on the bottom rail, pos. 1, on the side rail, pos. 2, and on the fold of the quarter rail, pos. 3. Installation of boxes on the lower rail is technologically simple and provides an acceptable width of the box, but "eats" a lot of space in height; a box on the lower rails can jam a completely new and neatly made one. In general, the worst way.

Landing on the middle rail requires milling grooves in the side drawers, but it provides the greatest width and depth of the drawers, because. gaps both from below and from the sides will be enough and 3-4 mm. If the rail is oak, and the drawers are pine or plywood, then the boxes on the middle rail almost never jam when extended by 2/3-3/4.

The quarter rail can be planed by hand with special planers: zenzubel and folded hebel, see fig., Therefore, in the old days, setting boxes of handicraft furniture in a quarter fold was widespread. Extended by no more than 2/3, the drawer slides in a quarter almost without jamming, but a lot of space in the design of the cabinet is wasted.

About the full stem guides

If you decide to invest in modern full-removal rails for your cabinet drawers, then consider the following:

Look first not at the brand, but at the complete fasteners. Responsible and conscientious manufacturers give hardware with shaped heads, and the key to them, so that no one gets in with a "self-propelled gun".
The assembly instructions must contain the exact dimensions for the fasteners, Full description technical operations with drilling depth and requirements for the base (wood - what?, laminate, MDF).
It is better to take inexpensive guides with propylene rollers. They run smoothly and silently, but are not as strong and durable as ball bearings. However, this is not important for the nightstand, unless you store gold bullion in it.
Guides of full removal are lower and side. For a bedside table, the lower ones are better, the drawers can be made wider. Side guides require technical gaps from the sides of 30 mm, which, with an overall width of the pedestal of 400 mm, reduces the internal width of the drawer to 250-280 mm. And the lower guides will have enough side gaps of 6-16 mm.

What are pedestals made of?

Wooden nightstand can be made from any wood suitable for furniture, e.g. the same as for a stool or table, as well as from plywood, laminate, MDF. The thickness of the boards is 12-40 mm, depending on the design. For dowels, cranial bars, wooden guides and drawers of the frame of the cabinet-locker, it is still better to take a solid dense tree - oak, beech, birch; in the latter case, also on the countertop, because they work on such bedside tables and load them with weights.

The back side of the panel cabinets is most often sheathed with a thin, 4-6 mm, laminated chipboard, pinned with a furniture stapler. In cheap furniture made of laminated chipboard, the bottoms of the boxes are also made, but it’s not necessary for yourself: it sags, crawls out of the grooves or breaks off the “shards”.

The doors of the bedside tables are most often hung on hidden adjustable furniture hinges, but under them you need to choose holes in boards from 20 mm thick with a cutter. If there is no possibility or desire to install hidden hinges, then the doors are hung on piano hinges. Cupboard doors on card hinges soon warp due to the small size of the hinges and the small drilling depth for fasteners.

About finishing

The bedside table is not a meaningful piece of furniture, so it makes no sense to spend money on expensive finishes. Ready, planed and sanded to smoothness, the cabinet in the living room is best pasted over with wood-like self-adhesive and coated twice with acrylic varnish. Then even an experienced cabinetmaker will not immediately distinguish it from the “real” one with veneer, and the film under acrylic in direct light will last at least 10 years.

Where is the nightstand?

Hallway

This is the first room where a homemade cabinet, as they say, asks for it. The furniture in the hallway is not looked at very closely, and the cabinet for shoes is very necessary here: the average family of 4 now has about 20 pairs of shoes, see fig. The old Soviet shoe rack is no longer enough here.

Shoe cabinets are on sale in a wide range, but the prices encourage non-standard, and looking at the designs of the hinges, it seems that they were copied from the turn points solar panels space vehicles. Meanwhile, a cabinet for shoes can be made much simpler and no worse: on the left in fig. see the drawing below, and on the right there is the design of the bedside table-pouffe to it, in which accessories for shoe care are stored.

There is not enough shoe storage in the hallway, you also need a bedside table for gloves, hats, handbags, etc. little things. It should be higher than usual so that you can look in the mirror while standing. Dimensions and general view of the nightstand in the hallway general purpose see fig. on the right, only it’s better to do it not on legs, but on a skirt of 20-30 mm boards so that debris does not accumulate under it.

Bedroom

The choice of a nightstand for a bedroom set is determined by the habits and temperament of the owner. Regular bedside table, pos. 1 and 2 on the next. rice. combined: top open shelf for alarm clock, phone, glasses; the middle one is for reading at night, and everything is stored in closed compartments: from books “for later” and the next change of bed linen to intimate accessories from lovers of “strawberries and cream”.

Fans of long and meaningful reading before going to bed prefer bedside tables, pos. 3. This habit, by the way, greatly develops mental faculties and helps to maintain clarity of thought until old age: what is read for a future dream, unless it is meaningless reading, is absorbed by the brain in a dream especially deeply and clearly.

Shelves-racks like fans of sophisticated design, pos. 4, but the sophistication of the nightstand can also be functional. How do you like the nightstand in pos. 5? Half of the table transformation mechanism and a bit of fiction.

In general, the bedside table is a grateful object for creative ingenuity. To begin with, we give diagrams of two, see fig. In the nightstand-dresser on the left, additional overlays on the facades are used, which allows you to get elegant design. And the nightstand-rack on the right consists of only 4 parts of a simple form.

Balcony

The glazed balcony is a utility room, narrow, with an unstable microclimate. Therefore, the bedside table on the balcony is made on the frame, see fig. This allows, firstly, to dispense with the casing of the cabinet and put it without gaps in which condensate will accumulate. Secondly, the increased strength of the cabinet-cabinet will allow you to work on it or, say, move a refrigerator to the balcony, which will save a lot of electricity. And so that small objects are not lost, the countertop is upholstered along the contour with a furniture fillet or plinth.

Living room

Cabinet in the living room, except for the magazine, pos. 1 in Fig., according to the modern and well-founded trend of interior design, is long and low. The design is chosen based on the design style of the room, pos. 2-4. But the TV stand at the same general design must meet specific requirements.

Cabinets in the living room

Efficiency acoustic systems(AC) is related to the wavelength of sound, which in the bass (bass, low frequencies) is meters and tens of meters. Speaker designers are doing their best to circumvent these limitations, and they are not without success. But still, the size and volume of modern flat-panel TVs do not allow them to be equipped with built-in acoustics that satisfactorily reproduce low frequencies. And here a TV stand can come to the rescue: it will “catch” the low-frequency vibrations of the TV and transmit them into the air, adding richness to the sound. Only if the TV is not a “bubble” of previous generations: a heavy tube suspended in it will extinguish them.

The TV stand must, firstly, have an open resonator tuned to approximately 80-100 Hz. A niche for a player with dimensions of about 800x400x200 mm is just right. Secondly, you can add “juice” to the sound if the TV works on small-sized external speakers by placing them in niches with a volume of 20 liters or more with a gap of 4-8 cm on the sides and top; the effect of "saturation" of the sound from the speakers closed type in niches is well known to music lovers. The “ideal” design of a TV cabinet is shown in fig. on the right, and drawings of 2 suitable ones, for external acoustics and without it, in fig. below.

But that is not all. The box of the bedside table, its back wall and the bottoms of the resonating cavities must be made of a board of 30 mm or more, and the intermediate parts - of a board of 20 mm or more. And that's not all: the material (spruce, pine, larch, hemlock, laminate, MDF) must have its own mechanical quality factor in the range of 0.7-1.2. However, there is no need to look for a sound-measuring laboratory, it is enough to tap the blanks with your knuckles: the sound should be clear, but short and dry, without ringing. A “cotton” board will absorb any vibrations, and a ringing one will “catch” unnecessary ones, which will give unpleasant overtones. And that's for sure everything, the glue on which the cabinet is assembled must give a seam that retains plasticity for years; PVA is the best.

Bathroom

It is impossible to give any general dimensions for the bathroom cabinet, because. a sink with a siphon will lie in it, of which there are a number of different ones on the market, and the release into the sewer bed can be arranged in any way. But general principles design cabinets for wet rooms are quite specific:

The cabinet in the bathroom must be raised above the floor, otherwise unsanitary conditions are inevitable, on the left in fig.
Therefore, it is attached to the wall, right there.
Fasteners, in order to provide access to plumbing fixtures, must be detachable: stainless (worse - bronze or galvanized) self-tapping screws in propylene dowels. Metal in metal, eg. stainless bolts and the same collets, it will stick so that the pedestal will have to be broken.
A cabinet for a washbasin is made of decay-resistant wood: oak, resinous pine, larch.
After the initial dry assembly and adjustment of the parts, they are individually treated with an aneseptic for wood, and after 3-7 days with a water repellent, i.e. water repellant. If an inexpensive (but very good) water-polymer emulsion is used, then the treatment is carried out twice with an interval of 1-3 days.

Under the aquarium

Aquarium - the most useful thing in all respects. But the aquarium is subject to the square-cube law in almost pure form: with an increase in the size of the aquarium tank, its volume and weight grow faster than the size of the reference area, i.e. the load from the aquarium per unit area of the bearing surface increases. It is believed that the weight of an aquarium with soil, population and equipment in kg is equal to approximately 1.5 liters of water in it. It follows from this that the curbstone for the aquarium must satisfy the following conditions:

An aquarium up to about 100 liters can be placed on any cabinet that is suitable in size, because. ordinary furniture is calculated for a load of 150 kgf.
Under the tank up to about 150 liters, a reinforced cabinet is needed; preferably frame. Its combatant tsars are made of timber from 60x60 mm; horizontal - from 100x50 mm. The installation step of the combatant drawers is not more than 400 mm; their height is up to 650 mm. The tabletop is made of solid laminate from 32 mm.
In aquariums with a larger capacity, the pressure on the support exceeds building code in 250 kg/sq. m, so the stands for them are calculated individually based on the size of the tank and the parameters of the building structure; the aquarium stand is usually mechanically connected to the building structure. AT apartment building project large aquarium must be tested/developed in specialized organization and approved by the building operator.

About corner cabinets

The bedside table is essentially a subordinate element of the interior, so corner cabinets in living rooms not in use: what is on the corner is always in sight. There is simply no place for this in an ordinary bathroom or in the kitchen, but a corner cabinet can come in handy in a narrow wall behind the door for every little thing, which is equally inconvenient to hide far away and keep in plain sight. For example, for toys that are not the most beloved, knitting / weaving, which are taken as soon as there is free time, etc. In such a case, in Fig. on the left is a diagram of a corner cabinet-rack. The dimensions in the plan can be changed according to your apartment.

Just in case

All this is good, the reader may say, but if you need a bedside table “for the day before yesterday”? Not chic, but from junk material, so that it could be done in half a day and was it enough for 5-7 years? Let's say, to the dacha, to the garage, to the barn?

You are welcome. On fig. it is shown how to make a durable and comfortable nightstand from a pallet left over from a construction site or other unnecessary boards. It's so easy to make that no explanation is needed. But the manufacture of this will give a sense of the material and design, which will then allow you to take on products that are quite aesthetic and even exclusive.

I was not the first to think that when using ordinary chairs and stools, a lot of the useful volume of the room disappears.

You feel it especially sharply in our small kitchens, in which it is often simply impossible to fit everything you need. Indeed, it is not necessary to use an ordinary stool as a seat - it will be no less convenient to sit on a small bedside table in which you can store kitchen utensils or food. Why not "a furniture product without a back and armrests for sitting one person"?

These reflections led me in the end and the decision to make something like a hybrid of a bedside table and a stool - a bedside table. And since I do not live alone, I decided to make two such products at once. Of course, this does not draw on a set, but a couple of identical things still reduce the furniture discord in the kitchen.

The choice of material for the manufacture of nightstands stools

I decided to make the body of the product from a pine furniture board. As a back wall, a sheet of laminated HDF fit perfectly. But I wanted to make the seat itself from a harder tree - for example, from birch.

For finishing, I planned a Sikkens water lane. I chose the same tone as the kitchen. Finally, the “kinship” with it was provided by such small details as handles: I picked them up with the same pattern as on all other kitchen handles.

I decided to varnish the seat in a lighter tone. I used corners, dowels and eccentric ties as fastening accessories.

doors

I decided to make the doors paneled - they were supposed to give additional "importance" to such a small object. I made the panel itself from a furniture board with a thickness of 18 mm, as well as strapping bars. Buying in a pine store furniture board, I noticed that several panels were glued not from lamellas spliced along the length, but from solid ones, and even radial cut. Such shields are the best blanks for doors. Of course, they immediately ended up in my cart.

At the panel, he processed the figurine field not only from the front side, but also from the back. It's not that wide. For work, I purchased an assembly of CMT milling cutters, which allows me to simultaneously remove the “excess” from both sides of the workpiece. True, this is possible only with a not very wide

processing zone, but the productivity of the cutters is still very high: one pass is enough for processing. Of course, the router must have a power of at least 2 kW and be with the obligatory function of maintaining constant speed under load. This is very important, since it is possible to work with cutters of large diameters only at the appropriate speed - usually no more than 11,000-12,000 rpm.

And more about safety. If we turned the router over and fixed it to the table, the danger of this tool increased significantly. Never let your fingers meet the rotating cutter! For safety, for example, I always use a protective screen made of durable and transparent material. My screen is tilted to the side towards the operator so that a finger cannot fit between it and the workpiece. And in terms of shape, the screen is elongated in length so that the side of the palm also does not reach the cutter. Although, when working, the hands should not be on the side at the level of the cutter, but only in the area of the workpiece in front of the screen.

I also processed the strapping bars on milling table using a set of two cutters - for a profile and a counter-profile.

IMPORTANT
For each diameter of the cutter there is a limiting speed - it is dangerous to exceed it.

Bedside table - do-it-yourself stool: manufacturing progress

The panels were made by a powerful router fixed in the table. The protective screen is clearly visible.

Manufacture of body parts and assembly

There were no particular difficulties with cutting the furniture board. First, I sawed it with a circular along the guide along, then across. Planed the edges with a planer and chamfered with a low-power manual router.

After that, I polished the planes of the parts. This job is best done by an orbital Grinder. Because I planned to use water varnish, before grinding, moistened the parts with water. At the same time, the fibers swell, the pile rises. When the parts dried, the "orbital" filmed it all. After such grinding, when applying varnish, the pile no longer rises, and the surfaces covered with varnish become smooth and pleasant to the touch - as it should be for furniture.

When I varnished the parts, I made sure not to paint over the places where glue would be applied during assembly: clean, varnish-free surfaces stick together more firmly.

The doors are pre-assembled and ready for painting. Wall and lid blanks are waiting for further processing. To make the racks look more like stool legs, drilling machine drilled two holes 0 35 mm in the bottom of the racks (like cups for hinges) ...

... after which he sawed out the excess with a jigsaw, moving the file in a straight line.

At the seats, I slightly rounded the corners with an allowance with a jigsaw. As a template, I used the first round object that came to hand. Then he brought the circles to correct form belt sander. In conclusion, along the perimeter I removed a chamfer with a radius of 6.3 mm with a manual milling cutter.

After finishing the panels and strapping bars, I glued the doors in the rims.

IMPORTANT
Usually, in furniture made of chipboard, two attachment points are used per side (for example, by a shelf). But the glued furniture board in the transverse direction is not rigid enough, so it is better that there are more attachment points, at least three.

The seat was attached to the uprights with eccentric couplers. I pre-marked the places for drilling holes in the end edges of the racks.

I drilled holes for the eccentric rods with a 0 7 mm drill ...

... and under the eccentrics themselves, I drilled cups 0 15 mm on a drilling machine (in its absence, this can be done with a drill fixed in the rack).

I fixed the lower shelves on dowels and corners (they are invisible below, so they don’t spoil the view). Under the dowels, I drilled holes on a home-made machine.

Then, from the bottom of the seats, I marked the center lines of the edges of the racks. Aligning the racks and seats, I found the holes for the eccentric rods.

I drilled holes with a 0 5 mm drill with a depth limit and screwed in the rods.

I connected the lower shelves with the help of dowels with racks ...

... and secured the corners. To attach the back wall to the underside of the seat, I screwed a bar with self-tapping screws in advance. In the racks, grooves are made under the back wall.

I attached the back wall with self-tapping screws to the bottom shelf, uprights and seat bar. It consists of two sheets of laminated (on the front side) HDF glued together and provides additional rigidity to the product.

The doors were installed inside the case on internal hinges. Therefore, to fix them in the closed position (so as not to fall through), I installed a mock rail. It remains to glue soft pads from the bottom of the uprights-legs - and you can sit down at the table.

The selected color of the finish of the product goes well with the tone of the rest of the kitchen furniture.

Do-it-yourself stool bedside table - photo

So that you can easily screw in a light bulb, wipe the cornice or get to the top of the kitchen cabinets, I made a convenient step-stool.

Previously, I cut out templates of all construction details from thick cardboard (see the figure on page 15) and transferred them to 20 mm thick plywood (you can use a furniture board or board of a suitable size). Then, with an electric jigsaw, I cut out the details of the stool along the contour, and cut out corner and semicircular holes and grooves on the side walls (1), the seat (2) and the back wall of the “liner” (8). I drilled holes d 6 mm in both side walls of the stool and at the ends of the base of the retractable part.

Started assembling. To the inner sides of the side walls (1) at the required height (depending on the size of the "insert" step), I fixed the strips (5) with a size of 20x25x60 mm. I attached the base (3) to the side walls with self-tapping screws, and to the cutouts on the sidewalls - cross bars(4). Top mounted seat (2)

Separately, I assembled the sliding part of the stool, connecting all the parts (6, 7.8) with dowels and glue, and fixed it to the base with bolts and bushings. To do this, on both sides at the junction in the holes of the base (7) glued metal tubes of suitable diameter with internal thread M6, placed the extendable stand and connected it to the base by screwing the bolts into the threaded bushings.

On a note

Before screwing in the bolts, I put washers under their heads.

The stool was processed with sandpaper and covered with a colorless varnish.

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While it is winter outside, you can take care of the house, namely the bedroom.

In our bedroom there is already a home-made bed 200x220, the ceiling is made and we are already. Now the turn has come to homemade bedside tables.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to capture the process of creating a bed on the camera, but it was made according to this example:

The main material is, viz. Paint Alpina Schokoladenbraun RAL (8017) - matte dark brown. Bedside tables were made on the basis of the same picture.

Unfortunately, it was not possible to film the process of making bedside table blanks, since I ordered them from a local carpenter. I will briefly describe what parts each bedside table will consist of:

countertop - 1 pc
sidewalls - 2 pcs
lower inner shelf - 1 pc.
sidewalls of boxes - 4 pieces
box front and rear walls - 4 pcs
drawer front - 2 pcs
facade of the lower part - 2 pcs
handles - 2 pcs
guides for drawers - 4 pcs
rear wall of cabinet - 1 pc.
the bottom of the boxes - 2 pcs
furniture corners (plastic double) - 6 pieces

I must say right away that the tabletop, sides and fronts of the drawers are made of pine, the drawers and the lower shelf are made of chipboard, and the back wall of the cabinet is made of fiberboard 5 mm thick.

So having received all the necessary blanks, I started painting. The painting process itself was also not filmed, since it was very cold and this article is not about painting. By the way, I have already said.

I painted all the details, except for the lower shelves. Of course, this is a bit unaesthetic, but these shelves are not visible, so I decided not to apply expensive paint on them.

We start assembling the bedside tables by screwing the furniture corners to the inside of the sidewall. We fasten 2 corners flush in the upper part, and 2 more in the lower part with an indent of 10 cm from the end.

We attach the table top to the upper corners, and the lower one to the lower corners. inner shelf from chipboard. Do not be alarmed if, after assembling 4 parts, the frame of the nightstand is a little skewed. It's leveling out back wall from fiberboard.

A few words about the tabletop. Its dimensions were conceived as 600 by 400 mm. The width turned out to be like this, but the depth turned out to be 3-6 centimeters more (from 430 along the edges to 460 mm in the center), since it is slightly oval in the front part to match the design of the bed and to come forward a little.

After the frame of the bedside tables is assembled, we proceed to fixing the guides for the bedside tables.

We calculated so that they are attached to the bottom of the boxes. I will say right away that this was a small mistake. It is better to attach the guides to the middle of the boxes. Then they will not touch the facades of the bedside tables.

The guides should be 5-10 cm less than the depth of the bedside tables. They mount flush on the front.

These are the handles I chose for the drawers.

Initially they were gray color. I had to buy a can of golden paint and paint it in one layer so that the handles match the color of the lamps and the chandelier. After the paint, just in case, I opened them with another layer of varnish.

Having painted the fronts of the drawers in one layer, I started drilling holes for the handles.

It is clear that they need to be done exactly in the center, so be careful and remember the immortal rule "Measure seven times, drill once."

This is what the facades with handles looked like after one coat of paint.

And here it is after the third layer. Of course I removed the handles before painting.

After that, we proceed to the assembly of boxes.

We fasten them together with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes with a thin drill (so as not to damage the workpieces when tightening the screws).

This is what the boxes look like when assembled.

After that, we proceed to fixing the bottom of the boxes with a stapler. On the one hand, we fix it flush, and we already align the rest under the bottom so that there are no distortions.

We drill holes for self-tapping screws with which the facades of the boxes will be attached.

After attaching the facades to the drawers, we fix the lower fixed facade with the help of 2 furniture corners.

That's all. Our nightstands look like this:

Of course, there is nothing special in the design of these bedside tables, but they are made almost entirely with their own hands, with soul, painted on their own, in the end, and all this together is worth a lot (if you know what I mean).