Do-it-yourself professional interior decoration: how to properly putty walls, ceilings and plasterboard surfaces. Putty or putty - how to speak and write correctly How to putty walls

We continue our series of articles about do-it-yourself wall putty. Today we will talk about filling ordinary walls - brick or panel (but not drywall), although the process diagrams are similar.

Classification and types of putties

Putties are classified into gypsum, cement and polymer.

Disadvantages and advantages of each type.

Gypsum-based: They are distinguished by their low cost, they are perfectly aligned and do not shrink. As a disadvantage, here we can note the low resistance to moisture, which limits the scope of their application. Plaster wall putties should be used in dry rooms, and their use in rooms with high humidity or with a large temperature difference is unacceptable. The cost of one bag (20 kg) is on average 250 rubles.
Cement: have a high degree of resistance to moisture, but the degree of their shrinkage is just as high. This requires re-puttying. Such mixtures can be used in rooms with high humidity, such as a kitchen or bathroom.(read the article about wall putty under wallpaper). When dry, cement-based wall putties only become stronger, but over time it loses its elasticity, which can lead to the appearance of microcracks. The price for this type of putty starts from about 200 rubles / bag (25 kg).
Polymer: have a lot of advantages: they perfectly resist moisture, do not shrink, allow you to achieve High Quality treated surfaces. The only disadvantage here can be considered only the high cost - starting from 290 rubles / bag (20kg).
Leveling: intended for leveling walls after plastering. They have a high grain size, good strength and excellent adhesion to the surface. Recommended layer thickness from 3 to 20 mm. Price: from 230 rubles / bag (20kg).
To obtain a perfectly smooth surface and eliminate small flaws after leveling the walls, use finishing mixtures... In terms of strength, they are inferior to leveling putties. Their application is not difficult. Recommended layer up to 4mm. Cost from 280 rubles / bag (20kg).
Universal mixtures combine the properties of finishing and leveling wall putty, but at the same time costing more - from 320 rubles / bag (20kg). They are used on surfaces with minor imperfections. in quality they are somewhat inferior to both types.

Besides the composition putties are divided into leveling, finishing (for example, for the last stage of putty) and universal.

Putties are produced in dry form, as well as in the form of ready-made consistencies. Dry putties are stored much longer and are much cheaper than ready-made mixtures.

They are produced in special bags. Their preparation is not laborious: the powder is simply diluted with water using a special mixer in accordance with the instructions on the package. Of course, using the ready-made composition is much more convenient. But, if the applied layer is less than 2 mm, then such mixtures cannot be used... They also shrink a lot. Ready putty compounds are produced in special plastic buckets.

What kind of putty to choose to putty on the walls?

When asked what kind of putty to choose for walls under wallpaper, we can say that when choosing a putty, one should take into account the working conditions, the quality of the surface to be treated and the desired result. To purchase quality material, you should make purchases at branded hardware stores.

For the sake of economy, you should not go to all kinds of markets. It is there that the risk of acquiring counterfeit products is high. Simple advice when choosing a putty: you should pay attention to the date of packaging. It is applied to the nearest second. If you notice that the entire batch is packed in an instant, then most likely it is better to refuse such a purchase.

In general, the shelf life of the putty is from 6 to 12 months in dry rooms with room temperature... After the expiration date, the putty loses its properties - it ceases to set quickly. When buying, you should pay attention not only to the date of manufacture, but also to the integrity of the packaging. The bags with the dry mix should not be damaged, and the buckets with the prepared mix should be tightly closed..

The scheme of work with a grinding bar

Video instruction

Instructions: how to putty the walls yourself

To putty the walls with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

A drill with a mixer attachment and a container for diluting the composition (required when using a dry mix).
Spatula set: small, large, angled. When working, you have to deal with different areas of surfaces - each of them has its own spatula. Spatulas are available in 20mm, 40, 60, 80, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800mm. Narrow ones up to 80mm are used for hard-to-reach places. Spatulas with a width of 80 and 100 mm are called typesetting - with their help, the mixture is taken out of a bucket and applied to a working spatula. Spatulas with a width of 200 and 300 mm are used to level irregularities, small in width and length. Wider trowels are used to level heavily curved surfaces.
Rollers or brushes. They are necessary for priming the walls under the putty. The primer should not be skipped, as this improves the adhesion of the mixture to the surface and improves the quality of work.
The rule is to need it in places where the putty is applied in a thick layer. Long metal rule convenient when leveling thick layers of putty from the walls. The rules come in different lengths - 1m, 1.5m, 2m, 3m. A rule with a length of 2m is considered optimal. However, it is better to choose a convenient size of the rule individually.
Level for setting test beacons (as well as for) before applying the starting plaster of the walls. Levels come in lengths from 20cm to 2.5m. For household purposes, it is not necessary to buy the largest one, a level from 0.5m to 1m is quite enough.
Sandpaper - for a perfectly smooth surface. It is better to purchase skins with grain from 60 to 100. Skin 60 is suitable for the basic stage (you should not take less than 60, because it will be too coarse), and fine 100 for grouting the finishing layer (skin above 100 will be heavily clogged with dust). It is more convenient to grout the walls after putty using a manual skinner.

Wall surface preparation

Loose layers of plaster should be removed

Before applying the wall putty under the wallpaper, prepare the surface to be treated. It must be absolutely clean without stains of grease, soot, paint, etc. The loose layers of plaster should be removed. It is strongly not recommended to start work if the walls or ceiling are frozen.

Before the putty walls, it is necessary to apply a primer to improve adhesion. One coat of primer is sufficient.

Initial putty of wall surface

Plastering is done using special beacons that help to more evenly apply the solution.

Starting putty is performed using coarse material ( starting putty). It is convenient to use such material with large wall drops to hide irregularities, remove grooves and holes. The thickness of such a layer, applied at a time, can be up to 1.5 cm. To apply subsequent layers, you must wait until the previous one dries.

If the level differences of the walls are more than 5 cm, then in this case, before applying the putty, the walls are plastering. Plastering is done using special beacons that help to more evenly apply the solution. Before applying the plaster, the walls are primed with a special solution, and before each layer of plastering, they are additionally sprayed with water. Apply plaster with a special spatula with a sharp wave of the hand. For better adhesion with the subsequent coat, the first coat should be slightly roughened. As a rule, all movements are performed from the bottom up. After applying the plaster, it is leveled by the rule.

Often to receive high result use a special masking net

Often, to obtain a high result, a special masking net is used. It is mounted on the wall (read good article about), and put putty on top (or plaster, if necessary). In this case, the putty adheres better, and the surface becomes much stronger and smoother. The painting net is attached to the first layer of putty, without waiting for it to dry. The prepared piece of mesh is pressed into the still wet layer of the putty. After drying, a second layer of putty is applied. Thus, the mesh remains in the middle of the leveling layer of the putty. The tensile strength of such a layer increases significantly, which avoids the appearance of cracks.

The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks.

How to putty: finishing stage

After completing the starting stage, it is necessary to apply a finishing putty to the wall. Its main goal is to make the surface perfectly smooth and beautiful. If the starting putty was performed poorly, then using finishing mixture it will not be possible to correct the situation. The finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer, eliminating only the smallest pores and cracks. Therefore, before finishing a perfectly flat surface should be achieved.

For processing even corners use an angled spatula

When using a dry mixture, it is necessary to correctly prepare a solution. It should be homogeneous and adhere slightly to the spatula.
Using a large spatula at an angle of 30̊, apply starter putty in small portions. Apply the filler diagonally, overlapping each stroke to avoid transitions and bumps.
Use an angled trowel to cut even corners. To begin with, apply the mixture with a small spatula along the entire height of the corner. Then, using an angled spatula, level the surface of the corner.
After the starting layer has completely dried, the finishing putty is applied using a small and large spatula. Apply the mixture with a small spatula on a large one in small portions and apply it evenly to the surface. The layer thickness is about 1.5-2mm.
After the putty has completely dried (this takes about 12 hours), you can proceed to the final sanding with a fine sandpaper.

In order to putty the walls with your own hands, it is important to perform all stages of the work with high quality and responsibility. In this case, you can get an excellent result and significantly save on work.

Successful renovation!

Almost any type of wall decoration involves puttingtying them. Using the putty, it is possible not only to level the walls, but also to prepare them for further finishing. In order for the result of the work to be of high quality, one should adhere to certain recommendations for its implementation. We will consider further how to properly putty the walls.

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls: the advantages of finishing

The first and most important advantage of wall puttying is leveling them with a putty mixture. As a result, it is possible to get an even coating, ready for painting or another type of finish.

In addition, puttying is a fairly easy process, which is quite realistic to perform on your own, having previously studied the recommendations and the technology for its implementation. Correct use putty and the tool with which it is applied, allows you to get a high-quality result in the form of a smooth and even surface.

There are many options for putty, which is suitable for a particular type of wall. Also, there is a putty used in ordinary rooms and in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, the choice of one or another variant of the putty mixture should be justified by individual performance characteristics premises. Also, there is a putty for external work, which is characterized by additional resistance to temperature drops, moisture and solar radiation.

The use of putty before starting wall decoration is characterized by such advantages as:

ease of work:
affordable cost of materials;
obtaining a flat and perfectly smooth surface;
speed of work;
a variety of compositions according to their scope.

Tools for filling wall surfaces

The key to obtaining a high-quality result in wall plastering is right choice tool used in the process of work. V mandatory, when carrying out work, you will need to have:

1. Electric drill with a special attachment - mixer. Most often, the putty has a dry consistency, therefore, to dilute it with water and to obtain a homogeneous consistency, you will need to mix it with this tool. A special nozzle will allow you to get a high-quality mixture, without lumps and additional inclusions.

2. Spatulas set. For work, several spatulas should be prepared, each of which will perform a specific function. So, with the help of a small spatula, puttying of hard-to-reach places is carried out and putty is applied to a large-sized spatula. The best option a large trowel for filling walls, 35-50 cm.

3. A set of rollers and brushes with which the primer will be applied. Priming is an obligatory process of work before and after puttying. Since with the help of a soil solution, it is possible to achieve an antiseptic effect, thereby preventing the formation of fungus and mold on the surface of the walls. In addition, the ground mortar increases the adhesion between the wall and the filler. For its application, a roller is most often used, as well as special trays, into which a soil solution is poured.

4. If the putty is applied to the walls to level them, then in the process of work it will be necessary to have a rule with which it will be possible to determine and eliminate all existing irregularities. Long steel rule useful when the walls have very large irregularities.

5. The level of alcohol or laser type also allows you to determine the unevenness on the walls, if any.

6. Usage sandpaper actual after applying each layer of putty. With its help, the surface of the wall becomes perfectly smooth and polished. It is recommended to use medium-fine skins at the stage of starting puttying, and at the finishing puttying, the skin should be very fine.

7. In order to speed up the sanding process of the wall, it is recommended to use a manual skinner.

8. In addition, in the process of work, you will need a container in which the putty will be stirred.

This list of tools is mandatory for filling walls.

The choice of materials for the process of filling walls

Putty is a paste-like material that is applied to the wall, thereby leveling it. With the help of putty, it is possible to prepare the base for further finishing.

In relation to the degree of readiness of the putty mixture, it is of two types:

1. Dry putty - requires additional dilution with water. Among its advantages, we note:

affordable material cost;
the possibility of preparing a composition having almost any consistency;
ease of preparation;
this material is easy to transport and differs long term dry storage.

However, dry putty needs to be done additional work on its preparation for application, therefore, the time for filling is increased. The ready-made mixture has a limited time of use, so it is prepared in small portions. Before starting work, you should read the instructions and clearly follow its instructions. Otherwise, the quality of the filling will deteriorate.

2. For the manufacture of ready-made putty mixture, a latex base is used. The release form of this material is buckets or tanks. The ready-made solution is used for a long period of time and does not dry out. Another advantage of this composition is that there is no need for additional time to prepare the solution. However, the cost of this material is much higher than that of dry mixes.

In relation to the main substance used for the manufacture of putty, they are divided into:

1. Cement-based putties - they are distinguished, first of all, by good resistance to moisture and excellent performance characteristics. Among the shortcomings, we note:

the presence of slight shrinkage after drying;
low level of coating elasticity;
the presence of small cracks after drying.

2. Plaster based putty - practically does not shrink and is very elastic. However, this putty dries very quickly, in addition, it is not resistant to sudden changes temperature regime and moisture.

3. Putty on polymer base- it has a high price, but it allows you to get a high-quality surface after puttying.

When choosing a putty for walls, you should pay attention to its fractional indicators. The smaller the fraction of the putty, the flatter and smoother the surface will be as a result of the putty.

In relation to the purpose of the putty, it happens:

1. Start - has high strength, affordable price, used at the beginning of leveling the walls, applied with a thickness of three to twenty millimeters.

2. Decorative or finishing - they complete the filling process. This putty has a white color, fine grain, high strength.

3. Universal putty - combines the two previous options. It is used if the walls have slight flaws.

Step-by-step technology for filling walls

Before starting to putty the plastered walls, you should prepare them for this process. If there are grease stains, wallpaper or paint marks on the wall, you need to get rid of them. If the walls in the room are frozen, then their puttying is unacceptable. The walls in the room must be absolutely dry.

Before starting work, you should treat the wall with a soil solution. This will improve the adhesion between the wall and the filler. A special roller is used for priming the wall. It is enough to apply the putty mixture on the wall in one layer and wait until it is completely dry.

Starter plastering of drywall walls is done with a coarse material called starter plaster. This putty allows you to get rid of large wall drops, grooves and various kinds of holes. The application thickness of this putty is about 15 mm. Please note that each of the layers, before applying the next one, must be completely dry. In order for the putty to adhere well to the wall, it is recommended to use a special reinforcing mesh, on the surface of which the putty is distributed. Puttying the wall is carried out by applying a continuous layer. The reinforcing mesh allows the putty to adhere perfectly to the wall. At the same time, the strength and flatness of the wall is improved.

Puttying the walls under the wallpaper with the lighthouse method involves the use of beacons, in the form of a wooden, plaster or steel strip, exposed in a vertical direction. In order to fix the beacons on the wall, use a plaster solution. Also, the walls are aligned horizontally. In this case, a rule will be used to align the wall. Thus, the end result is a wall surface that is free from flaws. However, this finishing option is used very rarely, due to the high cost of its implementation. Most often, it is replaced with a starting putty.

Finishing plastering of walls is performed after complete drying of the starting layer or lighthouse plastering. Finishing compounds are used to perform this kind of finishing. With the help of this putty, it is possible to obtain a perfectly flat wall, without cracks, chips and pores. The finishing putty is applied using a very thin layer. In case of poor quality starting puttying, finishing layer will not fix the bugs. Finishing puttying is carried out only after perfect leveling of the walls.

In order to get rid of cracks in the walls, it is necessary to use gypsum mixes... Since they have a certain elasticity. In order for the crack to bond well with the putty, it should be roughened.

Instructions for preparing and applying putty on the wall:

1. Prepare the filler, in the case of dry materials. Combine it with water, stir until smooth. The consistency of the putty must be such that it sticks to the putty knife.

2. Use a large trowel to apply the starter type putty. Apply the putty to the wall, spreading it over the surface both vertically and horizontally and diagonally. To prevent bumps from appearing on the wall, putty should be applied with a slight overlap.

3. To improve the quality of work, the solution should be prepared in small portions, otherwise dry parts will form on the wall. It takes 24 hours for one layer of putty to dry.

4. Puttying the corners of the walls is carried out using special spatula for finishing corners.

5. After complete drying of the starting putty, the finishing layer is applied. For work, you will need large spatulas small size... The layer thickness at this stage does not exceed two millimeters.

6. Before starting to putty the walls under the wallpaper, wait until all the previous layers are dry. Only then is the finishing putty applied.

In the process of filling the walls, the trowel is held against the wall at an angle of thirty degrees. In order to obtain the ideal angle, a little filler mixture should be applied to the corner trowel, then evenly spread over the corner area.

Before you start filling the walls under the wallpaper, you should determine the thickness and type of wallpaper. Since these indicators determine the amount of leveling putty composition that is applied to the wall.

Qualitatively prepared walls for wallpaper will allow you to get an ideal flat cover free from wallpaper folds and air bubbles. The putty should be applied to the wall no more than 1.5 mm thick. Therefore, all cracks and potholes must be repaired in the previous step.

If, after puttingtying, the walls will be painted, then more attention should be paid to the preparation of the walls. Since after applying the paint, all the irregularities will be visible. The leveling layer is applied very thinly. If there are defects on the wall, putty should be applied in several layers. Leave the walls to dry completely. Apply a decorative layer of putty and sand after drying.

In order to determine the required amount of putty, you should initially measure the area of the walls on which it will be applied. More economical is the use of dry mixes. However, ready-made compositions are more convenient to use. The choice of one or another option is determined by the material preferences of the buyer.

Puttying the walls video:

In the previous article, we examined, and now we will learn how to properly putty the walls.

There is no point in describing how to hold the spatula, hold it as conveniently as possible. With pressure on the spatula, its plane bends, the edges rise, and there is more pressure in the middle. That is why the putty is applied to the spatula in more in the middle.

With a spatula, we do two things:

We put putty on the walls,
We level it.

The more you press the trowel against the wall surface, the stronger the deflection and waves in consequence. Therefore, when leveling holes on wall surfaces or keep the trowel blade perpendicular to the surface. Sometimes the technology of wall putty allows you to tighten the corner of the trowel blade with the second hand, when aligning the corners and edges. The large spatula can be held by the edges.

What spatulas to use

To putty the walls with our own hands, we need spatulas of 600mm, 450mm, about 300mm and an overlay size of about 80-100mm.

We prepare a putty mixture in the case of using dry putties. Or take required amount ready and mix thoroughly.

Remember: Fugen and Multifinish have a limited time of use (40-60 minutes), Shitrok is more. And unused Vetonit can be closed with a lid and continue to work even the next day!

Put putty on the spatula, along the blade, more in the middle.

We apply on the wall, spreading the layer, pressing it with the blade of a spatula to the plane.

Now we level, that is, remove the excess. The blade is closer to the perpendicular angle.

Re-smear the removed, with a spatula, over the bucket. And we repeat: apply, level, remove.

It is more correct if these movements are mutually perpendicular.

To avoid filler build-up, do not apply too much. Keep an eye on the angle of the trowel to the surface, the putty is multi-angle more (60-50 degrees), the putty decreases and the angle of inclination decreases towards the wall. You don't need to press hard.

How to avoid sagging when overlapping layers of putty? We begin to lead the putty knife towards the already putty one, that is, we retreat 60 cm (for example) and apply the putty (we move the putty knife) towards the already putty area. Flatten the transition. If the putty has time to dry and bulges, you can spray it from the sprayer. Especially Vetonit, responsive to such a procedure.

How to level the walls with putty

If the walls are flat enough, and it is necessary to align the differences of 3-4 mm over a large area, then we create a plane using the plastering rule.

Apply with a 450-600mm spatula putty (Fugen or Vetonit under the wallpaper) over the entire area with an approximately even layer, and level it with the rule. We keep it perpendicular to the wall surface and “cut off” all unnecessary things. At this stage, we do not pay attention to the bullying from the movement of the rule, it is important to display the plane.

After the first (rough) layer of putty has dried, we prime it and begin to putty the walls using a 600 mm spatula, apply a continuous leveling layer. If done well, then the rule step is not necessary. We immediately work with spatulas.

In places where cracks may form, we glue in fiberglass or painting net. In the corners we use a grid and paper bandage, the application was discussed in detail in the article, the joints of the sheets.

When gluing a paper bandage tape, press it into the corner with a long spatula, and level it with a patch on both sides. We wait until it dries and putty first one side of the corner and only after it dries, level the second. About painting glass canvas and his correct application on the entire plane of the wall, read the following articles.

Then, use a 450mm spatula and apply the next continuous layer, perpendicular to the previously applied layer.

Remember: Apply and smooth the putty in two mutually perpendicular directions.

After drying, use a short 300mm spatula to putty on the “sdir” and remove minor irregularities.

Wait until it dries and sand with a hinged sandpaper.

We prime and apply a finishing coat of putty, filling in any remaining cavities and scratches. If you putty the walls for painting, then using a 450mm spatula apply a continuous finishing layer, then 30cm on the sdir, and small 80-100mm spot corrections. We sand with a fine-grained sandpaper with a grain of 240 or more.

Sometimes it is required to visually level the walls with putty without using plaster on the beacons, how to do this.

First of all, we level the corners and perimeter with putty, that is:

Wall-to-ceiling abutment,
Vertical corners of the walls,
Corners in the area of the baseboards.

When aligning the corners, start only on one side (right), and after it dries, proceed to the adjacent (left). If the corners of the walls deviate from the desired by more than 4 mm, then they can be leveled with Rotband plaster, and after the plaster has dried, with putty.

After leveling the perimeter, use a 600mm spatula and move to the plane. We apply the putty on the wall, and level it holding the spatula perpendicular to the wall (on the sdir), leaning on the already aligned perimeter, cut off the excess. We do the same with all the pits and drops on the wall.

After that, we proceed to the stages of wall putty described at the beginning of this article.

Subscribe to the News, then don't miss the Important!

You started the renovation and decided to putty the walls. But you absolutely do not know where to start, which material to choose, and in general the whole process is shrouded in mystery and darkness. First, let's figure out what putty is, and why it is needed.

The difference between plaster and putty

Starter plaster is a rough powdery mixture that builders use to level walls. Before plastering, a level is measured and the degree of deviation of the wall from the ideal vertical is revealed. In other words, this is done to keep the wall level. The maximum thickness of the applied layer is about 5 cm. After drying, this mixture has roughness.

Putty is a powder applied after plastering. Hence the name - finishing putty. It is flexible and makes the wall smooth. It can be applied with a maximum layer of 1-2 mm (and it won't work anymore). The finishing putty fills in small irregularities in the plaster, preparing it for painting or wallpaper.

Which putty is best for walls

The putty is available both in paper bags in the form of a powder and in the form of a ready-made mixture in plastic buckets. It is hardly possible to say which one is better, since this can only be understood from experience. The only difference is that the finished putty is already ready, and you cannot regulate its density.

Therefore, for a start, it is better to use a powdery composition, at the same time, from your own experience, learn how to dilute the mixture.

Depending on the composition, several types of putty are distinguished: gypsum, cement and polymer.

Cement putty consists of sand and cement. Such a composition perfectly tolerates moisture, but does not have plasticity. This means that cracks may appear over time. After drying, the surface will be rough, therefore it is necessary to sand. But it is great for outdoor work. She is not afraid of rain and snow.
Plaster putty. If you are going to use plaster putty, be prepared for it to dry very quickly, so don't mix too much. As it dries, a stone will appear in the bucket instead of putty.
Polymer putty has high elasticity and stretches well. It can be used for both outdoor and internal works... With this composition, you can achieve a perfectly smooth surface, but it is not cheap.

When choosing a putty, it is important to consider what will be on the walls. Plaster-based putty consists of many small particles that are visible after the surface has dried. Also, characteristic streaks can be seen due to certain properties of the gypsum. Plaster putty can be beige, gray and even Pink colour... If you try to paint it, for example, white, you will have to apply several layers. Such a putty does not lend itself well to staining for more light colors... But it will perfectly match the wallpaper.

The adhesive applied to the wall helps to soak the composition. Because of this, the wallpaper may not adhere well to the wall and stick in pieces. It is problematic to cut wet wallpaper from the bottom and top. Gypsum putty is not saturated with moisture as much as polymer. And for painting it is better to use a polymer putty. As a rule, she white, soft consistency and looks perfectly smooth on the wall.

Is it realistic to putty the walls yourself

Plastering the walls with your own hands is possible, but requires some practice. The first knowledge can be obtained by watching a video or observing how specialists do it. Of course, it won't work very well in the beginning. But there is also a comforting point: you can always count on sanding. Therefore, if it does not immediately turn out perfectly smoothly, stripes and stains form, sandpaper will hide these defects.

What tools are required

In order not to run in search of the necessary thing in the midst of work, it is better to prepare everything right away.

drill with mixer;
plastic containers;
latex gloves;
long handle roller;
narrow spatula (5-7 cm);
wide spatula (25-35 cm);
serpyanka;
respirator;
stepladder (or table);
work clothes;
newspapers, rags, polyethylene.

If the walls are covered with plaster, it is better to use a brush for priming. Since the roller will not be able to efficiently process the surface. We choose the width of the spatula ourselves. The standard width is 35 cm, but it is better for a beginner to use the narrower one, as it is easier for them to work. Drill mixer - special nozzle to stir the composition. It happens different shapes, does not really matter. Ideally, you can use a large bucket of water-based paint as a container. It will not crack under the influence of a drill.

Preparing walls for finishing putty

First you need to free the room from furniture. What can be endured, endure. Dust from this process cannot be avoided. The floor must be covered with plastic or newspapers. The more surface you cover, the better.

Why primed walls

If the room was too dusty, clean the walls with a wet broom. In order for the putty to adhere well to the walls, they must first be primed. A primer is a special liquid. After it dries, a microfilm forms on the walls from adhesive composition... The walls are completely degreased, cleaned and free of dust, so that the putty will not fall off in the future. Pour the primer into a plastic container and dilute with water. The concentration is indicated on the bottle. Next, use a roller with a long handle to prime the walls. This process is similar to ordinary painting, the main thing is to ensure that the walls are completely primed. This is easy to guess from the wet stains on the wall.

Some moments

Plastered walls under the wallpaper with your own hands is easier than for painting. Wallpaper will hide small defects and shortcomings. But you need to make sure that there is no left on the wall previous wallpaper(if they were). Because under the influence of the primer, they will get wet and stick to the putty.

The easiest way is to putty and prime the gypsum board (gypsum plasterboard). There are no special recommendations for this, we just drive it with a roller from top to bottom. Whatever the surface, it is better to prime separately with a narrow brush near the ceiling, floor and on the sides, since the roller does not reach the end in these places.

Plastering walls after plastering is a more laborious process. Therefore, it is necessary to prime it with very high quality. For this, it is better to use a brush to fill in any micro cracks and depressions.

Which primer to choose

The primer is used to create an adhesive layer on the surface, which contributes to a favorable adhesion of the composition to the wall. When choosing a primer, you need to pay attention to the room. If it is damp, it is best to choose a primer with an antibacterial effect that prevents mold growth.

The alkyd primer is powerful but does not penetrate into the material. It should not be used for plaster, putty and gypsum board. It is suitable for wood and iron as it has an anti-corrosion effect. In addition, such a primer creates a film on the surface to be treated, which is why the material does not breathe.
Latex primer is suitable for almost all surfaces. This perfect option in the case of plaster and crumbling surfaces. It is very moisture resistant, waterproof and elastic. But it has such properties due to the addition of synthetic substances to it, so it is not suitable for connoisseurs of environmentally friendly products.
An acrylic primer is best for home use. It does not have a pungent odor, dries quickly and is easy to use. The thick composition is diluted with water to the desired consistency and applied to the wall. Any surface can be treated with this primer. And its price will pleasantly surprise.
A deep penetration primer is used in cases where the surface is loose, loose and not solid enough. It could be old plaster, wood or simply plasterboard with collapsed corners. Such a primer penetrates deep into the material, giving it strength and water resistance, which is especially important in humid rooms.

Additional preparation of gypsum board for primer

Joints between drywall sheets contain cracks and grooves. It is better to use plaster to eliminate unevenness in these places. Due to its coarser composition, it will smooth out the surface faster. But it is not enough just to run with a spatula. After the plaster dries, a crack forms at the junction, since the composition has nothing to hold on to in the area of the gap. To prevent this from happening, we use a serpyanka. Serpyanka is a mesh tape in a roll, similar to gauze. It comes in different widths and has a sticky surface on one side, so it can be easily glued to the joints. After gluing the serpyanka, apply a layer of plaster from the bottom up. We make sure that it does not move and, if necessary, correct it. Drying time 2-3 hours. After that, remove small stony particles with sandpaper. The surface is now ready for priming.

Finishing plaster of walls. Technology

After the primer has dried, the surface is ready for the application of the finishing filler. To prepare the composition, we take a plastic bucket and pour it not a large number of water, less than half. For a start, it is better to make a little composition to fill your hand. Then we put a little putty there, while stirring with a mixer. The consistency should be slightly less liquid than thick sour cream. We achieve uniformity of the composition, the complete absence of lumps, otherwise balls with dry powder will form on the wall. The mixture must not roll off the spatula. If this happens, then it is too watery. It is very difficult to work with such a composition.

We proceed directly to puttying. In our hands we have two spatulas: a large and a small one. Please note: the trowel is not completely flat. It is bent more in one direction than in the other. It is necessary to define the "rounded" side. If you putty with another, stripes will remain on the surface.

Speaking of spatulas, it is worth noting that you need to choose stainless materials. Otherwise, with the subsequent putty, rusty stains will remain on the wall. We collect a little composition on a small spatula and transfer it to a large one, distributing it evenly over the entire surface. Starting from the window, we begin to putty the wall, creating an opaque layer of 1-2 mm. Making the layer too thick will make it harder to smooth out and may crack as it dries. When working with gypsum board, the direction of movement of the spatula does not matter, since the surface is smooth. On a plastered wall, dried large particles have their own direction. Therefore, we simply repeat it with putty. In the course of work, this will become clear.

Important: the uniformity and smoothness of the putty is highly dependent on the lighting. Imperfections that are not visible in daylight can become noticeable when illuminated with electric light.

Plastering walls for painting implies a uniform layer of the composition without gaps. If in some place the layer is thinner, the paint will have a different shade. The difference between the putty under the wallpaper is that the wallpaper will hide small errors.

In the process of work, various stripes and streaks will appear on the wall. We level the situation as best we can. But do not forget that there is also a saving resurfacing.

Sanding the walls

Wall sanding is used to remove small irregularities, stripes and bumps. This process can be either manual or mechanized.

Use regular sandpaper to sand the walls. It differs in particle size. The lower the skin number, the coarser its surface. For finishing putty, a skin of larger numbers is suitable. If large scratches remain on the wall, it means that you need to take a smaller one.

In addition to sandpaper, a diamond mesh is also used. It differs in the size of the cells, and, unlike the skin, it is not clogged with putty. It can be used both manually and using a special holder.

Grinding itself is necessary to eliminate the remaining defects, even a beginner can handle it. This process is very dusty, so be sure to wear a respirator. Grinding is done in a circular motion. Grinding in one direction will result in noticeable scratches.

After finishing sanding, the surface must be primed again, as a large amount of white dust will remain on it. Wait until dry and proceed with further work. Do-it-yourself plastering of walls for beginners can seem like a time-consuming and complicated process. In fact, this is not the case, you just have to start.

Today we will learn how to putty the walls in an apartment with our own hands. We will analyze in detail the issue of wall preparation, the selection of putty, its correct preparation tools used in the work and the process itself. The article will be useful both for beginners in repair and for those who already have some experience.

How to properly putty the walls under the wallpaper. Preparing the walls

The walls are tidied up so that they are even, and then you can glue the wallpaper on them. But the fact is that their initial condition may be so bad that it may be premature to think about how to putty the walls, because first you need to fill in deep holes in them, then plaster and only then go directly to the putty. Therefore, I highly recommend that you first read my article, which clearly presents a plan for working with walls, and putty is just one of the stages.

Plastered walls are made in 3 cases:

After removing the old wallpaper, when the walls are relatively even and it is not important for you to level them (plastering).
After plastering the walls, when they are strictly vertical and ready for further processing.
When in some places you need to patch up small chips on the wall.

Let's go in order.

Why do you even need to putty the walls, you ask? Well, I took off the old wallpaper and pasted the new one. Or he leveled the walls with plaster and also pasted wallpaper on them.

The fact is that the walls, in any of the above cases, are quite rough, and the wallpaper will fall on them worse than if we had taken and previously plastered the wall. Wall putty is fine alignment accurate to the millimeter. That is why the putty is good because, on the one hand, it is firmly attached to concrete or plaster, and on the other hand, brand new wallpaper fits perfectly on it.

What kind of putty is better to putty the walls under the wallpaper

First of all, you need to decide on the type of putty with which you will work. There are a lot of them in stores, and it is especially difficult for a beginner to navigate such a myriad of options on offer. To make it easier for you, I will tell you about one of the popular materials of the Weber Vetonit company, which I myself constantly use:

We make the following estimate. The walls of your home are not the same. Some are load-bearing thick walls facing the street. In cold weather, these walls can freeze through. And there are interior walls that live at a relatively constant temperature. Weber Vetonit has the following options for these cases:

Weber Vetonit VH - when hardened, this putty is resistant to low temperatures.
Weber Vetonit KR is just a putty for dry rooms.

How to determine the required amount of putty

After determining the type of putty, you need to calculate, but how much do we need to take? Usually on the packaging of putties on the back, everything is painted in great detail. It would be better to go to the store and read this information right on the bag. The fact is that all materials are different and it will be difficult to say the exact amount, an approximate one is possible!

How many times to putty the walls under the wallpaper

It is very important to assess how much you have prepared the wall before the putty. If after plastering the wall is perfectly flat, then of course one layer will be enough. If you did not plaster the wall, but try to remove irregularities and small differences on the wall by using putty, then the material consumption will be completely different. Usually, the thickness of the putty ranges from 1 to 3 mm, in some places up to 5 mm - no more. Therefore, in the most extreme case, if you are going to smooth out irregularities reaching up to 1 cm, then in any case you will need to lay the material in 2 layers.

For example, I just had such a case without plaster, when the interior wall is 3.5 meters by 2.5 meters, with total area 8.75 meters, 15 kg of Weber Vetonit KR putty took me.

How to putty walls for painting

If you plan not to glue the wallpaper, but to paint the walls, then in this case they should be literally polished. In this case, first, the usual putty is used to remove irregularities and roughness, which may occur after plastering. Then, when the first layer is dry, the wall needs to be sanded, vacuumed, primed and applied with a second layer of finishing putty in a very thin layer. The work turns out to be quite confusing in terms of labor costs, but ideally smooth walls worth it.

Considering the above, you just need to measure the area of the walls to be putty, estimate the thickness of the putty layer that you are going to lay, decide whether it will be one layer or two and, based on the consumption of the material indicated on the package, calculate how much putty you need to buy.

When making repairs, there is an important thing to remember:. Sometimes, especially if you live in an apartment in which you are doing repairs, see, it is better to buy building materials in parts.

Where to buy putty

My experience tells me that it is better to buy putty in large construction hypermarkets, such as Petrovich, OBI, etc. Why? Because all building materials, like food, have an expiration date. For example, a putty in the form of a dry mortar with an unopened package may have a shelf life of 12 months, 18 months, etc. from the date of manufacture. Some dry mortars have a shelf life of only 6 months. Therefore, in large construction hypermarkets, the probability of buying expired materials is much lower than in dubious warehouses for half the price.

Always check the date of manufacture. You cannot work with expired putty - this will ruin all your labors.

How to prepare walls for plastering. Primer

If you are going to putty on a concrete wall, it is better to prime the wall 2 times. If you have just plastered the wall, then you can prime it 1 time before puttingtying.

In any case, you need to look at the general plan for working with the walls, which I mentioned above.

How to properly dilute the putty and putty the walls

If we use ready-made putty in a jar to putty the walls, then we open it and immediately get to work.

If we use a dry building mixture to putty the walls, then we need to prepare a putty solution. To prepare the solution, we need:

Capacity for preparing the required volume of dry mortar.
Steelyard for weighing dry construction mixture.
Capacity for the prepared solution.
Measure for pouring the required amount of water.
Drill with mixer installed.

IMPORTANT!

Putty is not plaster. You can cook a lot of it at once, since the prepared mixture can live for about another day. Plaster, if we remember, after 20 minutes. begins to freeze. Therefore, estimate how much solution you are ready to put in within the next 24 hours.

25 kg = 10 liters

6 kg = X liters

X = 6 * 10/25 = 2.4 liters of water.

Pour the required amount of dry mixture from the bag into the bucket.
Pour the required amount of water into the container for preparing the solution.
Pour dry mixture from a bucket into a container with water to prepare the solution.
We turn on the drill with the mixer installed and begin to mix the dry mixture with water.

Stir for about 3 - 5 minutes, until the putty looks like thick sour cream. Then you need to let the solution brew for about 15 minutes and mix again (for a short time).

All solution is ready. You can use it.

The better to putty the walls. Tools

To putty the walls we need:

A trowel for throwing the ready-made mortar onto the wall.

Spatulas (Large, medium (small)).

Rubber spatula (very small).

And below we will consider the most interesting thing - this is the process of plastering the walls.

How to putty walls with your own hands

To putty the wall, you need to start from one side and move in the opposite direction. The plastering process consists in the fact that with the help of a trowel you throw the solution onto the wall, and then with the help of a spatula you disperse it to the left and right, up and down. When accelerating the putty along the wall, press on the spatula. Care must be taken not to overload the mortar on the wall so that smudges do not form. If you still put more than necessary, scatter this part of the mortar along the wall, where there is not enough putty applied.

When you run out of solution, prepare a new batch and continue working.

The puttying skill does not come immediately, it needs to be trained. But I'm sure you will succeed. After applying the putty and dispersing it, literally after a moment, the putty can form smudges in some places. To remove them, you need to draw a spatula over this place again.

What spatula is better to putty the walls? If the area of the wall to be treated is large, then it is better to immediately learn how to work with the largest tool. V hard-to-reach places use a medium or small spatula.

Why do you need a small rubber spatula?

It happens that in the process of work, you accidentally leaned your elbows on the wall, poked with the sharp end of a spatula at the just applied and leveled mortar, or just suddenly a hole formed on the wall in a certain place. Then you take a rubber spatula, dip it into the putty and gently apply the latter to the damaged area. With a large spatula, in this case, it is not convenient to act, since having eliminated the deficiency in one place, you, by pressing a little harder, can create with the sharp end of the spatula new problem elsewhere, so it is better to use a rubber trowel.

The rubber trowel is flexible and allows very small amounts of putty to be applied to problem areas without destroying what you have already done with such difficulty.

IMPORTANT!

Try to prevent dirt and especially hardened pieces of cement or plaster from accidentally getting into your putty solution. The fact is that if this happens, then in the process of applying the mortar and dispersing it with a spatula along the wall, an accidentally hitting pebble under the pressure of the spatula will make you a furrow in the wall, which you will have to close up immediately.

That is why the container into which you pour water for the preparation of the solution must be clean, and the remains of hardened cement or plaster pieces should not float there.

How to putty drywall walls

Assessment of completed work

After puttingtying, you need to look at the wall and understand how smoothly you managed to apply the solution, because then the process of grinding the wall will follow, which consists in grinding off excess micro-convexities on the wall, see. If you are a beginner, then it is quite possible that you may not be able to apply the solution evenly the first time. Dont be upset, next wall will definitely be smoother! However, if you understand that you have poorly putty the wall, that during the sanding process you will definitely have multiple pits and grooves (traces from the sharp corners of the spatula), then it makes sense to apply a second layer of putty after the first layer dries.

IMPORTANT!

Remember! A new layer of putty can only be applied when the first layer is completely dry. And this will happen approximately in 24 hours.

Of course, wall putty is not limited to Veber Vetonit. We have a whole group that produces dry building mixtures, where you can read about them, get to know them and gain a little confidence in them, if you have never putty in your life.

This concludes the article. Today we have learned how to putty walls. I'm wondering what difficulties did you experience while working? What was your main problem: with a spatula or with an incorrectly prepared mortar?