How to use the putty. Plastered walls with your own hands (advice from an experienced craftsman). Application of starting putty

Performing repairs is rarely complete without puttingtying and priming the surface of the walls. This type of work is carried out at the final stage to obtain a smooth and even surface. In addition to a flat surface, plastered walls have a number of advantages, including a neat appearance and ease of further work. When performing work on your own, it is important to know how to putty the walls to obtain a flat and smooth surface for painting or wallpapering. Do-it-yourself wall putty is a fairly simple type of work, the main thing is to understand what needs to be done, follow the procedure and be able to handle the tool.

Wall decoration can be divided into three main stages. The first step is surface preparation. It consists in removing the old coating, cracked putty and plaster. At the second stage, we carry out a rough finish of the wall surface. This includes reinforcement, leveling and filling. The final third stage is reduced to wallpapering, painting or another method of wall decoration. Many are accustomed to performing only the first and last stage, completely losing sight of the rough finish. This small oversight will negatively affect the appearance of the walls and the overall impression of the renovation. The need to perform such work as leveling the walls, plastering walls for wallpaper or plastering walls for painting, becomes obvious only at the final stage of work, when nothing can be changed.

Video: putty walls for wallpaper

The obvious advantages of plastering walls are a smooth surface, smoothing out plaster flows, small depressions and cracks. In addition, the plastered walls have a uniform surface, on which any finishing materials will perfectly fit.

As for leveling the surface, then with this type of work, everything is somewhat more complicated. The fact is that leveling carries an aesthetic load, while putty is a technical one. And the answer to the question of whether to do alignment depends on the financial capabilities and the desire to see the symmetrical corners of the premises.

Ways to putty walls

For a high-quality repair, it is necessary to perform the surface filling procedure before final finishing. To know how to properly putty the walls, you should first figure out how to putty. There are the following methods: starting putty, lighthouse putty, finishing putty and crack putty. Each of these methods is performed with different types of putty and applied for specific purposes. Before puttingty the walls for painting or under the wallpaper, you should perform the starting putty and level the walls.

Starting surface putty

Starting wall putty is a crucial stage, on the quality of which the volume of subsequent work depends

For starting putty, gypsum-based plaster-based putties with an admixture of various additives are used. The starting putty is carried out in order to level the walls, close up the grooves and holes. The layer thickness can be up to 15 mm. With a large thickness, putty-plaster should be applied in alternating layers. Each new layer is applied with pauses to dry the previous one. For high-quality application of the starting putty-plaster, a paint net is used. With its help, the material has better adhesion to the surface, the possibility of cracking practically disappears, and the surface itself is smoother.

Important! For the smoothest and most even surface, use a coarse paint net.

Beacon method

Lighthouse putty on the wall allows you to simultaneously eliminate surface defects

This filling method requires the same materials as the starting putty. It is used for leveling walls, sealing strobes and holes. Before you putty the walls with a lighthouse putty, beacons are installed, which are made of wooden, plaster or metal slats. The lighthouse is exposed in vertical and horizontal planes under the level and filled with plaster-putty. Thanks to this, the surface is perfectly flat and vertical.

Important! Lighthouse putty is an order of magnitude more expensive than putty using a paint net, but visually it does not differ.

Surface finishing

This method of spackling is also called "bogeyman". The putty is applied to the lighthouse or starter to give the surface a perfectly smooth and even look. The result is a pore-free and crack-free surface. The finishing putty is applied in a thin layer and completely repeats the plane of the previously applied starting putty.

Important! The finishing putty is designed to smooth the surface. It cannot be used for leveling, since the layer of the finishing putty is no more than 1.5 mm.

The video demonstrating how to properly putty the walls clarifies the technology of applying the finishing putty.

Putty on cracked walls

This method is used when it is necessary to locally "patch up" the wall surface. Cracks can be putty with a simple spatula. As a material, you can use gypsum and alabaster mixtures, but satengips is the best material for this type of putty. Before you start filling cracks, you should increase the width and depth of the crack itself. This is done for better adhesion of the putty. To do this, we draw a sharp angle with a spatula or with a knife along the crack itself. Next, apply a deep penetration primer and let it dry. Now we apply the putty itself with a spatula and let it dry.

Important! It is more difficult to work with alabaster and plaster because they do not have sufficient elasticity. The advantage of these materials is their drying speed - about 10-15 minutes. Satengips is more elastic, but has a longer drying time.

Selection of materials and tools

To complete the work, you will need the following tool:

- small spatula 10-15 cm;

- large spatula 25-30 cm;

- corner spatula;

- drill and plug-in mixer;

- sandpaper;

- brush and roller;

- a clean container for 15-25 liters.

Wall Sanding Tool Set

With materials, the situation is somewhat more complicated. The putty market provides a huge selection, ranging from simple and cheap varnish-based putties to expensive, pre-prepared putties. For those who have a limited budget or want to save money, you can opt for dry putties.

They are cheaper and of good enough quality. To apply the starting layer, use a coarse putty; for the last layer, use a finishing putty. There are a number of universal putties, but for the quality of work and economy, it is worth choosing according to the method of their application.

Important! A serious disadvantage of dry putties is their poor resistance to moisture. With increased humidity, they become soft again. To play it safe from this phenomenon, it is better to immediately choose moisture-resistant putties.

In order for the putty and other finishing materials to hold well, the surface is primed. The applied layer of primer will fix and protect the surface from minor damage. In addition, the primer promotes better absorption (absorption) and adhesion to the base surface of plaster, paint, wallpaper glue and putty. When choosing a primer, you should pay attention to the type of surface on which the primer will be applied. Highly penetrating primers are applied to highly porous and loose surfaces, universal primers are applied to medium-porous surfaces. Apply a primer with high adhesive properties to a low-porous dense surface. For high-quality adhesion of finishing materials, you should use specialized primers for a specific type of surface.

It is more convenient and faster to prime the surface with a roller

Important! For priming surfaces in rooms with high humidity, special waterproofing primers should be used. Such primers are applied in two layers.

How to putty walls: stages of work

1. We treat the surface with a primer. For this we use a roller. We prime hard-to-reach places, corners and joints with a brush. We are waiting for it to dry completely.

2. If necessary, level the walls with plaster or starter putty. After drying, we primer again.

3. If we use dry putty, we will have to start preparing it. To do this, pour a small amount of water into the container and add the putty. First, mix with a spatula, and then use a drill with a mixer. We add water gradually.

Mixing of solutions is carried out in strict accordance with the instructions of the material manufacturer

Important! The readiness of the putty is determined by its consistency. On the video demonstrating how to putty the walls, you can see what it should be: elastic and slightly stick to the surface of the putty knife. If the putty flows down, then it is thin and dry mixture should be added. If in lumps, then on the contrary - dry.

4. Apply the starting putty. For this we use a large spatula. Apply the putty in medium portions and distribute it evenly over the wall surface. We hold the spatula at an angle of 25-30 degrees and apply the putty in one diagonal movement. To avoid bumps and transitions, we apply each subsequent layer with an overlap.

Important! When applying the starter layer, the putty should be kneaded in small portions for quick production. This is done so that dry particles do not appear in the mixed mixture, which can affect the quality of work. Do not be afraid of the appearance of stripes from the spatula, they will be leveled with a finishing putty.

5. For even corners, use a special angled spatula. First, using a small spatula, apply a small layer of putty to the entire height of the corner or slope, and then smooth it with an angle spatula. Let it dry well throughout the day.

Puttying of corners and slopes with a special angled trowel guarantees the formation of perfectly even corners

6. After complete drying of the starting putty, you can proceed to the finishing. Put putty in small portions on a large spatula using a small one. Then apply evenly to the surface. The thickness of the layer of the finishing putty should be between 1.5 and 2 mm.

7. Before puttingty the walls for wallpaper or painting, you should wait until the starting putty and the first finishing layer are completely dry. After 12 hours, the first layer of the finishing filler is dry and the surface can be prepared for the final filler step. To do this, apply a finishing layer, wait for it to dry. Now it can be sanded with a special holder and sandpaper.

Important! Before applying each new layer of putty, it is advisable to treat the previous one with a primer.

Putty on walls for painting differs from putty on walls under wallpaper in the quality of the final surface grinding. For wallpaper, a perfectly smooth surface is not so important. The wallpaper itself will partially hide the roughness. But for paint, this is critical, especially if you use enamel. Therefore, sandpaper with a grain from P80 to P120 is suitable for sanding walls for wallpaper, and sandpaper with a grain from P120 to P150 should be sanded for painting a wall.

Puttying walls is not so much difficult as a laborious process that requires a lot of time. All work requires increased attention, but the result will delight with its grace and perfection.

Puttying the walls is not only an obligatory stage of a major overhaul, but also a necessary procedure before partial cosmetic changes to the interior.

In order to enjoy the process and the result when painting and cladding walls with your own hands, you must first of all learn how to putty, otherwise irregularities, wrinkles and dimples that appear on freshly painted walls can become a long-lasting demonstration of the carelessness of a home craftsman.

Types of putty materials

Putty - the material that covers the wall when trimming, it is sold ready-made or in the form of a dry mixture. The assortment available for sale differs not only in quality, but also in composition.

The most versatile are gypsum dry mixes, which are suitable for the treatment of any surfaces, are easy to apply and retain their shape when dry. For maximum moisture resistance, cement mixtures are used.

There are also ready-made gypsum-cement mortars based on polymer emulsion, which combine all the positive effects of gypsum and cement putty. A container with such a putty must be kept closed, it dries quickly and loses quality.

The highest quality indicators are for acrylic mixtures: they are more expensive, sold dry and diluted.

Dry putty powder is diluted in water using a construction mixer, the nuances of dilution can usually be deducted on the package.

The main thing is to get a homogeneous mass, not too liquid to drain from the walls, and not too hard to ensure perfect adhesion to the surface.

It must be remembered that ready-made putty solutions, regardless of whether they are prepared from a dry mixture or an open container with a ready-made putty, are short-lived, they are not suitable for use after 24 hours.

Stages of puttying

To prepare for the putty, you need to clean the walls - remove a layer of old wallpaper, paint, if there is mold, treat the surface with special solutions.

After cleaning, you need to wait out the time required to dry the walls and ceiling. Then you need to make a one-layer or two-layer primer, which will create a protective moisture-resistant layer and facilitate the adhesion of the putty material to the surface.

When leveling the walls with putty, two spatulas are used, the one that is larger in size - for taking a portion of the mixture and the other - for applying it. The size of the tools depends on the size of the area to be treated. Special corner spatulas are used for processing corners.

The mixture, which should have the consistency of sour cream, is applied to the wall with smooth movements in a semicircle.

With an uneven surface of the walls, a special painting net is attached to them, on which the first layer of putty is applied. Explicit and localized defects are handled separately.

After drying, a second layer is applied, the surface of which is verified with a level and plumb lines. Then - the final thin layer, which can be made from special mixtures for maximum smoothness.

The last step in leveling the walls is their processing with sanding pads on a special holder. When putting putty under wallpaper, it is necessary to use skins with a grain size of 80 to 120, if painting is carried out, more grained skins are used - p120-150.

A close to ideal even surface of the walls is not only an aesthetic, but also a hygienic requirement for repairs, and minimizes the accumulation of dust and the likelihood of the formation of harmful fungal cultures in the house.

DIY decorative plaster

After you have mastered the simple skills of priming and plastering walls and gained experience in diluting and applying various mixtures, you can proceed to a more interesting and creative process of making decorative plaster - a textured outer layer.

Note!

Modern mixtures intended for putty contain polymers, which, at the drying stages, provide the plasticity necessary to obtain a decorative uneven texture. In this case, you can use both ordinary rollers and special stencils.

The most economical of the many options would be to make a simple gypsum putty, with the addition of PVA glue, water and paint.

The options for decorative putty shown in the photo can spur the imagination and inspire everyone who has already mastered the basics of cosmetic repairs to bold experiments.

DIY putty photo

Note!

Note!

Plastering of walls is performed as the final operation of their preparation for wallpapering and painting. Although modern plastering technologies and materials are capable of producing surfaces suitable for all types of finishes, this level of work is very expensive. Therefore, the walls are still putty, especially since the do-it-yourself putty on the walls is not one of the complex and especially important works.

It is advisable to putty the walls on your own for the following reasons:

• Painting and gluing - lightweight finishes; in a dry, fungus-free and not flooded room, the putty allows you to level and smooth the walls without complicated and expensive plastering.
• The putty can be repeatedly altered, adjusted, eliminated flaws from inability without reducing the final quality of the coating.
• Putty materials are inexpensive, not difficult to work with, and their consumption is low.
• Plastering home-made curved interior elements from drywall is not feasible on its own, and it is extremely expensive to order; their putty is not more complicated than wall putty.
• The price of work on the walls putty by a hired team is comparable to the cost of plastering work, and may even exceed it.

It is worth talking about the cost of putty work especially.

Putty price

For putty 1 sq. m wall construction organizations assign from 70 to 90 rubles / sq. m. It seems to be cheap and cheerful, but if it comes to a contract, various subtleties appear, such as irregularities of more than 3 mm, heating radiators, slopes, the same arches. As a result, if the plaster was not done by these masters, below 250 rubles / sq. m does not come out, and this is the price. It’s especially bad for homemade people: “Did you do it yourself? 400 per square without a guarantee (this is the price of ceiling plaster) plus slopes at 130 per running meter and angles at 90 per meter. "

But maybe, if the old plaster is still strong, just a little battered and worn, order patching? The call of the master - from 1200 rubles, plus he will choose the materials himself, plus the work piece by piece for the hole. All in all, even if you still have never heard the words "rule" and "spatula", it is better to putty yourself. Putty is from the category of work in the process of which they study, and the skills gained will be useful for more serious repairs.

Speaking of words

Putty or putty - how to speak correctly? On the packaging in the hardware store it says this and that. Maybe it's for different jobs? Wouldn't be mistaken.

Putty and putty are one and the same, and putty is correct after all, although academic dictionaries and putty are not prohibited. The etymology (origin) of this word is not simple, but instructive, so it's worth a little distraction for the sake of it before work.

The original Russian mass construction is wooden. Before finishing, the cracks in the wooden walls were sealed with tarred tow - they were towed. By the way, the tow was pushed tightly into the grooves with a special tool - a swivel. Hence - fawning. In modern Russian this word has a completely different meaning, but how it came to such a life is a separate story.

With the development of stone architecture, a German instrument appeared in the everyday life of finishers - a spatula (spathel; "spathel" in Russian transcription), which, in turn, is a direct descendant of the Latin spoon (spatha). To distinguish the preparation for finishing stone walls from wooden ones, it turned out to be enough to add just one letter to the usual word, and this is how the putty appeared.

But then, it turns out, is it more correct to putty? From the spatula! In the Romano-Germanic languages ​​- certainly yes, but not in Russian.

It's not about which language is good or which language is bad. Great literature has been written in classical Chinese, the language of the most primitive, isolating type. German can be very musical, just read Heine's original.

The Romano-Germanic languages ​​developed under the strongest influence of Latin and follow the Roman principle "Rem wilba sequuntur" - the word follows the thing. In them, it is generally accepted to name the process by the instrument, and the meaning in the context is obtained with the help of official words or their absence and the arrangement of words in the proper order.

East Slavic languages ​​developed independently and proceeded from the process, action. How the word “ax” acquired its sound and spelling is the subject of much research, but it comes from the concept “to cut with a powerful direct blow”, and not from “compact, durable, solid, sharp”. This saved our language from articles, service and modal verbs and made it almost indifferent to word order ("yellow shoes" and "yellow shoes" - try to say the same in English), but extremely sensitive to the effect on the root of the word. The difference between an ax, a knife, a saber and a chisel is hidden so deep that it is better not to go crazy there. Neglect of this circumstance, especially in combination with the long-term influence of the West (rulers are overlords, a large flow of illiterate labor migrants, etc.) can make an outwardly full-fledged and even melodious language viscous and inexpressive.

Specifically on the case - the Russian word "putty" is organically included only in two cases: either it means that the operation is performed on the spatula itself, and not on it, or as a figurative expression. By analogy: the walls are laid out, not bricks; nails are hammered, not hammered. You can nail, but not a nail or a box; it is possible to thresh, but destroying or dividing, and not creating or gathering together.

The addition of "sh" to "tow" did not touch the root of the word, and its semantic load remained consistent with the essence of the concept being expressed. The use of "putty" in professional speech is justified as figurative: it already means that the plasterer is speaking, and not a mere mortal. Likewise, it will not be a mistake for a sailor if he calls the bench a jar and the toilet a latrine.

A note on linguistics: The Russian language has experienced the strongest influence of the East, but the local languages ​​are of the incorporating type, the root in them is the holy of holies. Therefore, the Russian, having borrowed from the Tatars, which turned out to be useful, survived the linguistic invasion without prejudice to himself and even with benefit.

Tool

The putty tool is similar to the plaster tool, but only externally, see fig. First, the spatula blades need to be thinner so that they flex slightly when you push down on the handle. This will make it possible to simply obtain a thin layer of uniform thickness due to the viscosity of the solution. It is easier to hold the pressure than the gap between the bottom edge of the plaster falcon and the wall and its slope, so the putty does not require such delicate skill.

Secondly, the blade of the spatula should be perfectly flat (when buying it, it is checked with a glance along, like a blade of a cold weapon) and smooth, preferably with rounded edges. The blades of expensive spatulas are cut out of the sheet with a laser, and those that are cheaper are cut with a stamp; their blade often comes out rough. You can direct it by walking around with a folded house with a piece of fine emery cloth. Price tags and labels from spatulas are removed, washed off, and traces of Velcro are removed with 646 or 647 solvent.

Further, for sanding the walls after puttingty with an improvised bar for an abrasive mesh, you can no longer do: you need a mesh jointer (grater, holder) with clamps. Sanding with a sandpaper, especially gypsum putties, is strongly discouraged: lumps of putty adhering to the sandpaper will scratch the coating.

Then, you will need another plastic bucket, preferably a household one, with a bottom corner rounded inside. And the most important thing is that the putty tool must be kept separately, completely clean, before work wipe with a clean, washed cloth or microfiber, and after work it must be washed and wiped dry. Not like cement from previous mixes, but just dust and lint with hairs may never allow the surface to be brought to perfection.

Materials (edit)

Which putty is better? Corresponding to the final goal of the work: the most expensive and high-quality acrylic costs about 300 rubles. for a bag, and it is quite enough for a typical living room, unless the devils threshed peas on the walls there. So you can not have a headache about money for putty, but you need to figure out which is which, which is suitable for what, and who does which.

Note: "Starting" and "finishing" putties are just terms for short. Any putty is applied in two layers - leveling (starting); it may not be continuous, and the cover may be the finishing one.

Composition and purpose

Oil and glue putty

In modern construction and repair, putties on drying oil are rarely used to level walls.

The cheapest putties are oil and glue on drying oil. They are considered obsolete, but not because drying oil is harmful to health, this is not true. Drying oil is harmful for modern wall decoration, it is absorbed even into the strongest concrete and then appears as spots through paint, except oil, and wallpaper.

Nevertheless, it is too early to discard the oil-glue putty: it improves waterproofing and protects the plaster with a surface layer of the base wall from fumes. Therefore, for basements, bathrooms, sheds and closets, kitchens, oil-glue putty is very suitable, especially since their walls are either revetted or painted with oil paint, technically, not decorative.

For wooden walls plastered to tears, oil-glue putty is generally irreplaceable: it will protect the frayed sheathing and felt lining from decay, and nails from rust. Acrylic cannot do this, and wooden plastered walls will serve for a long time, without losing their appearance, only under putty on drying oil.

Gypsum cement

Gypsum-cement putties are slightly more expensive and suitable for all general finishing works. Produced in the form of dry mixes mixed with water. Precisely kneaded, and not sealed, like plaster. Residential putties are designated LR and KR; for rooms with high humidity - VH. The purpose of gypsum-cement dry putty mixtures is, first of all, to putty the walls under the wallpaper. An overview of the most popular dry gypsum-cement fillers is given in the next paragraph.

Water-dispersive

Water-dispersive putties are also gypsum-cement, but they are already mixed with a water-polymer emulsion and are sold in plastic buckets. They are more expensive than dry ones, but you do not need to prepare them for work: dial and smear. You just need to remember the bucket open, otherwise the coating will come out fragile, although the mixture does not seem to set yet.

Water-dispersive putties have exactly consistent viscosity, due to the industrial preparation, increased strength and smoothness. They are easy to apply, and when sanding, the random jerks of the jointer do not eat out the pits. Water-polymer putties can be confidently recommended for a beginner: with a more or less conscientious attitude to work, you can get a good wall for painting in three approaches.

Acrylic

Acrylic putties have all the advantages of the above (oil ones stand alone) and only one drawback: cheap low-quality paint does not hold well on them, they are very smooth. If it's not a pity to put a little money "on top", then it is best to putty with acrylic for painting.

Range

The most popular putty is Vetonit, but it is only suitable for wallpaper: open it gets dusty and wipes even with a finger.

But it is cheap, and the record holder for efficiency: consumption - 1.2 kg / sq. The manufacturer is trying to rectify the situation by releasing Vetonit LR Fine (which gave rise to the myth of "starting" and "finishing" putties), but it is somehow suitable for painting only in dry heated rooms.

If you are interested in Vetonit, you need to remember that due to the content of a large proportion of gypsum, this putty is water reversible: when it gets wet, it turns into a paste. But it fills the depressions well, and it is easy to remove it later, therefore it is optimal as a temporary option in anticipation of a major repair.

Warning: do not try to correct the imperfections of Vetonit with a thin layer of strong putty on top. Vetonit is the weakest of putties, and nothing but it will not firmly adhere to it.

Putties KNAUF Uniflot and Fugagips are adapted for sealing joints and holes on drywall. Suitable for walls, both for wallpaper and for painting, but more expensive than others, and the consumption is about 1.7 kg / sq. m.

Eunice - high-whiteness putties, mainly for painting; under the wallpaper is the hardened composition of Eunice Kron ("Heavy Eunice"). Suitable for dry, heated living spaces. They are smoothed out in the absence of experience with some difficulties, so that the consumption is not small, but in 3-4 approaches an attentive and diligent beginner can get an ideal surface. Eunice is perhaps the only really finishing putty - it needs a base from Knauf, but not Vetonit.

Domestic, more cement than gypsum, "Prospectors" are superior to KNAUF in their field. This sphere is the outer walls, basements, damp rooms. They are not very suitable for decorative painting, but the heaviest cladding holds on to them like a glove. Perfectly combined with "Hercules", see next.

"Hercules" - "basement" putty, for completely damp and "killed" walls. Due to its high adhesion and thixotropy, it is indispensable for sealing cracks and potholes in concrete. On rough, but not "humped" concrete walls for cladding, facing and technical painting with "Hercules" with "Prospector", you can do without plaster.

Putty work

On drywall

Plasterboard putty is part of the gypsum plasterboard work cycle, therefore.

General operations

Cleaning the walls

If the putty is done over old plaster, the wallpaper and paint must of course be removed. To do this, use the appropriate washes according to the instructions. Then they dry the room (as a rule, this takes a day) and carefully examine the walls; small residues are removed with an assembly knife or a thin flexible spatula (not putty!)

Terrain check

The relief of the walls is checked with a plastering rule and a flashlight: applying the rule, they light it casually against the wall. The slightest bumps and holes are visible at a glance. It is better to knock down bumps and sharp protrusions immediately with a plane or a sharp plastering trowel, and circle the holes with a pencil along the light contour.

Instrument preparation

Immediately before work, the entire tool is thoroughly wiped from dust with a cloth, washed with dishwashing detergent, and wiped dry with a washed cotton rag or microfiber. It is good to wipe with household napkins such as "Freken Bock", etc., but only with new ones. Particular attention should be paid to a mixer for a drill and a bucket for kneading - lumps of previous compositions, if found, need to be picked out.

Kneading

How to dilute the putty? Very simple, but not gradually blocking with water:

• Clean water is poured into a 1/4 bucket if it is a building one, or 1/3 if it is a household one.
• The mixture is poured in a stream (do not thump) until the top of the heap appears above the water.
• They wait, from 5 to 25 seconds, until the pile is saturated with water and sags; dry lumps should not be visible.
• Quickly, within 1-2 minutes, but knead thoroughly, it is highly desirable - with a drill with a mixer.
• Wait another 0.5-1 minutes.
• Knead again in the same way as the first time. Everything, the mixture is ready.

Warning: it is inadmissible to add neither water nor dry composition to the putty mixtures. As it happened, we are working. It's okay, putties are quite tolerant to the amount of water, and after drying, you can always wipe with an abrasive and grease.

Note: before mixing, pay attention to the shelf life of the mixture after mixing, and knead in portions to work out with a margin of 25-50% in time.

Consumption set

Consumable portions of the mass are applied to a wide spatula with an average bed in order to apply in one stroke.

Terrain leveling

Holes and cracks (bumps and "snot" are considered already knocked down) are rubbed either with an average one, gaining a flow rate with a wide or wide spatula, depending on their size. Grouting is carried out with sweeping movements in a cross with uniform pressure until the mixture comes out flush with the wall without scoring and sagging.

Pulling the spatula slowly and pressing down is a common beginner's mistake. Any putty to some extent possesses thixotropic properties, and with a periodic effect of equal strength from different sides, it will quickly disperse as it should.

Drying

When drying the putty, it is necessary to apply a full range of precautions for drying the plaster: drafts, direct sun, directed streams of heat from a fan heater, hair dryer or electric heater are unacceptable. Cracks during drying are still half the trouble, but an improperly dried putty can warp, and this will only come to light when painting or gluing.

Ventilation of the room must be provided internally, without noticeable air currents and temperature drops. That is, open wide the doors of the room, but not the balcony. In the hallway, open the doors to the living rooms, and close the kitchen, bathroom and entrance.

How long does the putty dry? Drying times of more than 16 hours are not found in the instructions; most often - 10-12 hours. But it is better to do grinding no earlier than in a day: we are self-employed, there is nowhere to rush, let the coating gain strength better. It will be easier to work and it will turn out smoother.

Wallpaper putty

For gluing, first putty with a wide spatula in strips with an overlap of 10-25%. "Sausages" do not rub off. The spatula is held at an angle of 20-30 degrees; the main thing is to get used to keeping the pressure, then the layer will come out with a constant thickness of 2-4 mm. A smaller spatula angle gives a thicker layer, and vice versa, but within the specified limits, otherwise the layer will turn out to be either bumpy or torn.

Next, the putty is dried, the nodules are removed with an abrasive jointer and checked for evenness using the rule with a flashlight. If necessary, remove the bumps with an abrasive, and grease the holes. With complete initial inability, it may take up to 5 approaches until the wall is brought into the plane (to zero, as the builders say).

After zeroing and thorough drying, the wall is passed through a grid jointer with a grid number 80-120 (P80 - P120). The higher the abrasive number, the finer its grain. They pass first in a circular motion, and then with less pressure in a stagger (crosswise sweeps) to remove circular tracks.

Again they check the rule with a flashlight. There are no reflections beating far from under it? Done, dry for another day and. Have you "eaten" something superfluous? Our song is good, the next approach went.

Putty for painting

It differs from putty under wallpaper by an additional operation: after zeroing and grouting with an abrasive, a finishing layer of plaster is applied; under enamels, especially acrylic - special, durable and white, see above. It is already rubbed with a grid of numbers of at least 150. For mirror painting, it is also additionally polished with a rubbed plastering trowel with suede; felt and felt will not work. If the plaster was previously rubbed with a trowel, the suede cover must be replaced with a new one. In front of the walls, they are primed under the paint according to the instructions for it.

Video: putty lesson

Corner putty

Beginners are usually advised to leave excess material at the corners and then scrub with an abrasive. But, if something is supposed to be silicone from a pistol before the putty, the work can be significantly simplified, while increasing its quality at the same time.

To corrosive and vindictive linguists: silicone is a new word of independent origin. Its root has not yet had time to spread and give rise to concepts that differ from the original meanings. Therefore, silicone in Russian is completely legitimate, as well as foaming with polyurethane foam. A highly developed language is a delicate matter.

The suggested procedure is as follows:

1. When the silicone is used up, we immediately disassemble the tube from under it, remove the remnants and wipe it clean with a rag, abundantly moistened with table vinegar.
2. When putting putty, we leave the corner itself free, as shown in the figure.
3. After the walls dry, fill the tube with putty and squeeze its "sausage" into the groove; preferably one movement from the bottom up.
4. We pass with an angular spatula supported on the walls, as when plastering on beacons.
5. When dry, brush off the beads with an abrasive.

Note: if you are not sorry for a little money, you can use a plastic confectionery syringe instead of a silicone tube. On gaskets made of microporous rubber or foam, with additional reinforcement with electrical tape, it becomes like a native to the pistol. The syringe is also equipped with a set of nozzles, so you can decorate the walls in the form of a cake or pastries, and then paint.

Almost any type of wall decoration involves puttingtying them. Using the putty, it is possible not only to level the walls, but also to prepare them for further finishing. In order for the result of the work to be of high quality, one should adhere to certain recommendations for its implementation. We will consider further how to properly putty the walls.

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls: the advantages of finishing

The first and most important advantage of wall puttying is leveling them with a putty mixture. As a result, it is possible to get an even coating, ready for painting or another type of finish.

In addition, puttying is a fairly easy process, which is quite realistic to perform on your own, having previously studied the recommendations and the technology for its implementation. Correct use of the putty and the tool with which it is applied allows you to get a high-quality result in the form of a smooth and even surface.

There are many options for putty, which is suitable for a particular type of wall. Also, there is a putty used in ordinary rooms and in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, the choice of one or another variant of the putty mixture should be justified by the individual operational characteristics of the room. Also, there is a putty for external work, which is characterized by additional resistance to temperature drops, moisture and solar radiation.

The use of putty before starting wall decoration is characterized by such advantages as:

• ease of work:
• affordable cost of materials;
• obtaining a flat and perfectly smooth surface;
• speed of work;
• a variety of compositions according to their scope.

Tools for filling wall surfaces

The key to obtaining a high-quality result in wall filling is the correct choice of the tool used in the process of work. Without fail, when carrying out work, you will need to have:

1. An electric drill with a special attachment - a mixer. Most often, the putty has a dry consistency, therefore, to dilute it with water and to obtain a homogeneous consistency, you will need to mix it with this tool. A special nozzle will allow you to get a high-quality mixture, without lumps and additional inclusions.

2. Spatulas set. For work, several spatulas should be prepared, each of which will perform a specific function. So, with the help of a small spatula, puttying of hard-to-reach places is carried out and putty is applied to a large-sized spatula. The optimal variant of a large trowel for filling walls is 35-50 cm.

3. A set of rollers and brushes with which the primer will be applied. Priming is an obligatory process of work before and after puttying. Since with the help of a soil solution, it is possible to achieve an antiseptic effect, thereby preventing the formation of fungus and mold on the surface of the walls. In addition, the ground mortar increases the adhesion between the wall and the filler. For its application, a roller is most often used, as well as special trays, into which a soil solution is poured.

4. If the putty is applied to the walls to level them, then in the process of work it will be necessary to have a rule with which it will be possible to determine and eliminate all existing irregularities. The long steel rule is useful when the walls have very large irregularities.

5. The level of alcohol or laser type also allows you to determine the unevenness on the walls, if any.

6. The use of sandpaper is important after applying each layer of putty. With its help, the surface of the wall becomes perfectly smooth and polished. It is recommended to use medium-fine skins at the stage of starting puttying, and at the finishing puttying, the skin should be very fine.

7. In order to speed up the sanding process of the wall, it is recommended to use a manual skinner.

8. In addition, in the process of work, you will need a container in which the putty will be stirred.

This list of tools is mandatory for filling walls.

The choice of materials for the process of filling walls

Putty is a paste-like material that is applied to the wall, thereby leveling it. With the help of putty, it is possible to prepare the base for further finishing.

In relation to the degree of readiness of the putty mixture, it is of two types:

1. Dry putty - requires additional dilution with water. Among its advantages, we note:

• affordable material cost;
• the possibility of preparing a composition having almost any consistency;
• ease of preparation;
• this material is easy to transport and has a long dry shelf life.

However, dry putty needs additional work to prepare it for application, therefore, the time to complete the putty increases. The ready-made mixture has a limited time of use, so it is prepared in small portions. Before starting work, you should read the instructions and clearly follow its instructions. Otherwise, the quality of the filling will deteriorate.

2. For the manufacture of ready-made putty mixture, a latex base is used. The release form of this material is buckets or tanks. The ready-made solution is used for a long period of time and does not dry out. Another advantage of this composition is that there is no need for additional time to prepare the solution. However, the cost of this material is much higher than that of dry mixes.

In relation to the main substance used for the manufacture of putty, they are divided into:

1. Cement-based putties - they are distinguished, first of all, by good resistance to moisture and excellent performance characteristics. Among the shortcomings, we note:

• the presence of slight shrinkage after drying;
• low level of coating elasticity;
• the presence of small cracks after drying.

2. Plaster based putty - practically does not shrink and is very elastic. However, this putty dries up very quickly, in addition, it is unstable to sudden changes in temperature and moisture.

3. Polymer-based putty - it has a high price, but it allows you to get a high-quality surface after puttying.

When choosing a putty for walls, you should pay attention to its fractional indicators. The smaller the fraction of the putty, the flatter and smoother the surface will be as a result of the putty.

In relation to the purpose of the putty, it happens:

1. Home - has high strength, affordable price, is used at the beginning of leveling the walls, applied with a thickness of three to twenty millimeters.

2. Decorative or finishing - they complete the filling process. This putty has a white color, fine grain, high strength.

3. Universal putty - combines the two previous options. It is used if the walls have slight flaws.

Step-by-step technology for filling walls

Before starting to putty the plastered walls, you should prepare them for this process. If there are grease stains, wallpaper or paint marks on the wall, you need to get rid of them. If the walls in the room are frozen, then their puttying is unacceptable. The walls in the room must be absolutely dry.

Before starting work, you should treat the wall with a soil solution. This will improve the adhesion between the wall and the filler. A special roller is used for priming the wall. It is enough to apply the putty mixture on the wall in one layer and wait until it is completely dry.

Starter plastering of drywall walls is done with a coarse material called starter plaster. This putty allows you to get rid of large wall drops, grooves and various kinds of holes. The application thickness of this putty is about 15 mm. Please note that each of the layers, before applying the next one, must be completely dry. In order for the putty to adhere well to the wall, it is recommended to use a special reinforcing mesh, on the surface of which the putty is distributed. Puttying the wall is carried out by applying a continuous layer. The reinforcing mesh allows the putty to adhere perfectly to the wall. At the same time, the strength and flatness of the wall is improved.

Puttying the walls under the wallpaper with the lighthouse method involves the use of beacons, in the form of a wooden, plaster or steel strip, exposed in a vertical direction. In order to fix the beacons on the wall, use a plaster solution. Also, the walls are aligned horizontally. In this case, a rule will be used to align the wall. Thus, the end result is a wall surface that is free from flaws. However, this finishing option is used very rarely, due to the high cost of its implementation. Most often, it is replaced with a starting putty.

Finishing plastering of walls is performed after complete drying of the starting layer or lighthouse plastering. To perform this kind of finishing, finishing compounds are used. With the help of this putty, it is possible to obtain a perfectly flat wall, without cracks, chips and pores. The finishing putty is applied using a very thin layer. In case of poor-quality starting puttying, the finishing layer will not correct the shortcomings. Finishing puttying is carried out only after perfect leveling of the walls.

In order to get rid of cracks in the walls, it is necessary to use gypsum mixtures. Since they have a certain elasticity. In order for the crack to bond well with the putty, it should be roughened.

Instructions for preparing and applying putty on the wall:

1. Prepare the filler, in the case of dry materials. Combine it with water, stir until smooth. The consistency of the putty must be such that it sticks to the putty knife.

2. Use a large trowel to apply the starter type putty. Apply the putty to the wall, spreading it over the surface both vertically and horizontally and diagonally. To prevent bumps from appearing on the wall, putty should be applied with a slight overlap.

3. To improve the quality of work, the solution should be prepared in small portions, otherwise dry parts will form on the wall. It takes 24 hours for one layer of putty to dry.

4. Puttying the corners of the walls is carried out using a special trowel for finishing the corners.

5. After complete drying of the starting putty, the finishing layer is applied. For work, you will need large, small spatulas. The layer thickness at this stage does not exceed two millimeters.

6. Before starting to putty the walls under the wallpaper, wait until all the previous layers are dry. Only then is the finishing putty applied.

In the process of filling the walls, the trowel is held against the wall at an angle of thirty degrees. In order to obtain the ideal angle, a little filler mixture should be applied to the corner trowel, then evenly spread over the corner area.

Before you start filling the walls under the wallpaper, you should determine the thickness and type of wallpaper. Since the amount of a leveling putty composition that is applied to the wall depends on these indicators.

Walls well prepared for wallpaper will allow you to get a perfectly flat coating, on which there are no wallpaper folds and air bubbles. The putty should be applied to the wall no more than 1.5 mm thick. Therefore, all cracks and potholes must be repaired in the previous step.

If, after puttingtying, the walls will be painted, then more attention should be paid to the preparation of the walls. Since after applying the paint, all the irregularities will be visible. The leveling layer is applied very thinly. If there are defects on the wall, putty should be applied in several layers. Leave the walls to dry completely. Apply a decorative layer of putty and sand after drying.

In order to determine the required amount of putty, you should initially measure the area of ​​the walls on which it will be applied. More economical is the use of dry mixes. However, ready-made compositions are more convenient to use. The choice of one or another option is determined by the material preferences of the buyer.

Puttying the walls video:

Everyone who has at least once faced the issues of repair work is familiar with the process of filling. In this way, walls, wooden parts, and many other surfaces are finished. No fine finishing is possible without first surface filling. It is the putty that will help make the wall perfect - without roughness, cracks, irregularities and other flaws. There are many varieties of this material - in addition to different purposes, there are also different types of putties, according to their type and the result obtained. Which one to choose and how to use - let's figure it out together.

Why do you need to putty the walls?

Sometimes it happens that, having removed the old wallpaper, it turns out that the walls are not so and uneven. Often you come across such a gift from builders, like a plate, on which there are no dents or cracks and it seems that there is simply no need to putty it. In fact, this is a delusion! There are two types of putty work, directly as preparatory:

In this case, the preparation of the walls is exactly what is needed to align them, if they are curves, especially for corners, arches and similar joints. For such processing, not the most expensive putties are usually used, since there is no need to obtain an ideal appearance - the finished wall will still be covered with wallpaper on top. After the putty has been applied and completely dry, such surfaces are usually sanded to obtain an even white surface. Its roughness will even serve as an additional adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall.

This is a more painstaking and clean type of putty work. Firstly, such a surface must be truly perfect, without scratches, cracks and similar defects. Secondly, even microscopic cracks should be absent, since precisely because of them, in the future, the destruction of the paint layer can occur. This will completely ruin the quality of the coating and its appearance.

To perform a high-quality paintable putty, the multi-layer coating technology will be correct. In this case, various types of putties are used, which are applied sequentially one after the other, as well as additional strengthening agents - reinforcement with fiberglass, non-woven fabric and similar materials specially designed for this.

It is advisable to use the same type of putty for surfaces that are in sight - window slopes, ceilings, and so on.

What are the types of putties?

Even with a huge abundance of various putties on store shelves, in fact, there are not many types of this material. According to their purpose, they are divided into two groups:

• Starting

As the name implies, it is necessary for the initial alignment of the walls, provided they are uneven. They are made from chalk, a gypsum component and a rather coarse filler - usually crushed perlite or pumice.

Starter fillers are used to roughly level the surfaces of walls, ceilings or slopes and can be applied in thick layers. Due to its composition, this material quickly hardens, which allows you to treat the surface layer by layer, without waiting for a long drying of the previous layer.

These putties are sold dry, packaged in bags - for use, they must be diluted in the right amount of clean water. Usually, recommendations for breeding are indicated on the packaging and may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, therefore, you need to approach this process responsibly.

Ready-to-use putties are sold in buckets of different sizes, but still, even the largest of them are not sufficient for finishing large areas. It is profitable to take such a putty "for trial" - to understand whether this type of material is right for you from this particular manufacturer, you can buy a putty in a bucket, and then, for a full repair of the entire area, purchase the same, dry.

Starting putties can also be reinforced with meshes or fibers, if necessary. Such strengthening is especially important in the presence of strong defects near the walls, a weak foundation, or in new buildings, when the shrinkage of the building has not yet been completed.

• Finishing

Designed for surface finishing. With such a putty they work on an already dried starting putty. It is always applied in a thin layer - the maximum it can be up to three millimeters. Dried finishing putty forms a dense, hard layer without cracks and chips.

Finishing putties are sold in two forms: dry and ready-to-use. Dry mix - diluted in water, similar to the starting one, in accordance with the directions on the package. It is important to stir the powder thoroughly to the desired consistency, so that no lumps remain. For high-quality mixing, it is most convenient to use a special construction mixer, which is set in motion using a conventional perforator. The ready-made dry powder putty cannot be stored for a long time, as it quickly hardens upon contact with open air.

Ready-to-use finishing putties are sold in buckets of various sizes. This is very convenient in terms of the fact that, if necessary, you can purchase a small amount of the product. Also, the ready-made putty is convenient in that it can be used immediately after opening the package, however, it is still desirable to mix it - this may be necessary, since during storage it can stratify and become heterogeneous.

Types of putties

In addition to dividing the material according to its intended purpose - starting and finishing, putties also amaze with their variety in varieties. Here, the type of putty is determined by the raw material from which it is made. In fact, modern manufacturers have in their arsenal a wide range of initial constituents for putties. What exactly and what is their difference? The main three types of putties used in the construction market can be described as follows:

As the name implies, it is made on the basis of plaster. This product is distinguished, firstly, by its dazzling whiteness, and secondly, by its plasticity. It is also important that gypsum absorbs and releases moisture when interacting with the surrounding air. Walls treated with gypsum plaster can create a favorable indoor climate due to proper moisture circulation.

Naturally, this type of putty is only suitable for interior work, since gypsum does not show itself well in external work. It is ideal for work on - since these materials have a common structure.

It is easier to putty a plasterboard wall than usual, since it does not need to be leveled - it is enough just to close up the seams and the places where the sheets are attached. Plaster putty is produced as a starting and finishing.

It is also clear that its main ingredient is cement. Accordingly, the properties of cement perfectly coexist in it: moisture resistance, immunity to temperature extremes from frost to summer heat. Such a putty is convenient to use both indoors and outdoors - as it is resistant to weather conditions.

For interior decoration, it can be used in conditions of high humidity and steam generation, for example, kitchens, bathrooms, swimming pools and the like. The disadvantage of cement-based putty is its rough structure - this is also caused by its main component - cement. It is quite difficult to handle and sand after drying. Usually, such a putty is used for finishing with tiles, and similar materials that can hide a layer of plaster.

The most modern material is made from chemical raw materials using modern equipment. It has a dense structure and plastic consistency - it is suitable for leveling walls and for finishing. Acrylic putty is easy to apply, easy to sand and not prone to cracking. It is kind of universal, because, firstly, it is suitable for processing surfaces made of various materials, and secondly, because it can be used as a starting putty, and as a finishing putty, depending on needs.

But, because of its not small cost, it is hardly advisable to apply it in a thick layer. Usually, finishing specialists prefer to apply acrylic putty in a thin layer, no more than one millimeter, thus finishing the surface.

When applied neatly and thoroughly, acrylic can look perfectly smooth, beautiful, even glossy. An important advantage of acrylic putty is its environmental safety.

In addition to these widely popular types, polymer putties are also on sale - they are made on the basis of acrylates or vinyl compounds. These products are more expensive and versatile.

Polymer mixtures are gaining popularity - now they are used, perhaps even more often than gypsum and cement-containing ones. They are easy to use and durable in operation. By type, polymer putties are divided into three main groups: acrylic, polymer-cement and latex - according to the main ingredient in each of them.

1. Acrylic polymer putty- characterized by the presence of acrylic in the composition. It can be starting, finishing or universal - depending on the need and purposes of use.
2. Polymer cement putty- mainly used for leveling cement-concrete, lime and brick substrates. The main component here is cement, to which special polymer additives go. Such a putty has a plastic consistency and can be used as a starting, for leveling, and finishing, for finishing treatment.
3. Latex putty- made on the basis of styrene - this is a certain type of latex on an acrylic basis. This type of polymer putty is ideal as a finish and is well suited for finishing various surfaces: drywall, brick, wood, concrete and others.

Polymer putties are very convenient for their special look - they are plastic and elastic, which makes them ideal for work. Even amateurs can create a perfectly even layer using polymeric materials.

They are also convenient in that they can be applied in the thinnest layer, which is impossible for gypsum or cement putty. However, the minimum thickness does not make the layer of putty less durable than those that are applied thicker. It is also important to note the strength characteristics: the polymer putty is not subject to shrinkage and cracking. In addition, they are vapor-permeable, that is, they allow the walls to breathe, and are resistant to moisture and have thermal insulation properties.

Polymer putties are sold in the same way as other analogs in dry or ready-to-use form. Dry mixes, as a rule, make sense to choose when it comes to finishing large volumes, and ready-made plastic mixes will help out great if you need to finish a small area.

This type of putty is presented on store shelves in three types: starting, finishing and universal. It will not be difficult to choose the necessary putty. Material consumption is indicated on the labels - you just need to calculate the required area for finishing.

The only drawback of polymer putties is their high cost. Unfortunately, due to the content of polymers, which at their cost simply cannot be cheap. Of course, the many positive characteristics of these materials fully justify their price, so when choosing a material for wall decoration, you should pay attention to polymer putties.

Types of putty application

Having decided on the type of material, it is necessary to choose the method of its application. The putty is usually applied using three traditional methods:

For mechanical application, special installations are used, with the help of which the finished mass is sprayed onto the surface of the walls. Such application is convenient, fast and efficient. But, of course, the purchase of special equipment for household needs is impractical. And, as a rule, in a similar way, the putty is applied by specialists in the field of finishing work, when working on an industrial scale, in large volumes, and so on.

The semi-mechanical method also requires a compressor or a pressure tank - in this way, the putty is “sprayed” onto the walls, which is also much faster than applying it manually, although slower than in the first case.

Manual method of applying putty

Well, the most common way is hand-applied. Since it is he who is most often used by both professional builders and those who decided to make repairs on their own for the first time, we will consider it in more detail. For application, a ready-made putty mass is used - prepared independently from dry powder or already purchased in a ready-to-use form.

• using a flat painter's trowel and a small trowel

A small amount of putty is collected on the working surface of a flat trowel and a small trowel is applied and spread over the wall. This method is simple and convenient even for those who have never done such work.

• putty "bloopers"

This name speaks for itself: with a small spatula, putty is applied to the wall in the form of "bloopers" - large spots, and then, using a long trowel, the mass is evenly distributed over the entire surface. This method allows you to finish quickly, but it is physically more difficult than the previous one, since it will take muscles to level the material with a trowel, from fifty centimeters long.

• using two spatulas: main and auxiliary

The main spatula should be about two to two and a half times longer than the auxiliary one. For example, spatulas that are 45X20 cm or 35X10 cm long work well. The longer the main spatula, the more effort is needed to work with it.

In the process of application, the putty is distributed over the main spatula with an auxiliary spatula and is already transferred to the wall with it. It is important that when distributing the mass, the pressure on the spatula is the same over the entire surface to be treated - then the material will be evenly distributed. The basic principle of applying putty: from dry to wet. That is, it is necessary to work in such a way that each subsequent finished section is connected to the previous one and they can be immediately compared with each other - then the work will be done accurately, without irregularities and sagging.

Putting putty is not a complicated process, however, it requires accuracy and a certain skill. Starting for the first time, you can practice in not very noticeable places, fill your hand. When muscle memory remembers hand movements, work will go faster and better. Manual putty - available to anyone, there are no particularly critical nuances in it.

Plastered walls with your own hands

Many owners strive to carry out repair work on their own: this is not always caused by a desire to save on wages for specialists. Many people like to make repairs themselves, taking into account their every wish, or simply because they like this occupation. As for the putty process, there is nothing complicated in it, you just need to purchase a high-quality putty mixture and observe the correct work technology - these two facts will allow you to get a smooth, beautiful wall, ready for further finishing.

Preparation

Before proceeding with the puttying itself, the walls must be properly prepared.

1) Remove the remnants of old building materials as much as possible. Traces of varnish, paint, wallpaper - can significantly affect the quality of the finished coating, in the most negative case, the remainder of the old varnish can simply fall off after the end of the putty, violating the integrity of the finished layer.

2) Carefully examine the surface for cracks, chips, irregularities. If there are any, then they must first be repaired, flush with the wall, watching during work so that no bulges appear. After sealing the cracks, it is necessary to wait for the time required for the material to completely dry and only then proceed to the next stage.

3) Thorough cleaning of the walls and the room as a whole. There should be no dust, dirt, greasy stains - all of them must be removed, cleaned, degreased. It is advisable to vacuum the walls in order to remove as much as possible small particles of dirt and dust.

4) Surface priming. The primer must be chosen based on the material from which the walls are made, and also, depending on their condition, applied in one or several layers. A primer with antifungal additives is preferred to prevent mold or the like. The primer should be applied with a brush or a special roller, capable of transferring liquid to the wall well.

This stage is important, since well-primed walls have a stronger adhesion to the putty mixture and are protected from damage by fungus. Therefore, you need to try to apply the primer as thoroughly as possible, without missing a single millimeter. After application, leave the primer alone until completely dry, which is at least six to eight hours, at room temperature indoors. But it is best to leave the walls to dry for a day.

Preparation of the putty mixture

If you plan to putty a room, or even more than one, then you probably will not be able to use ready-made putty in buckets - this, although convenient, is clearly not cheap. Just for the treatment of large areas, a dry putty mixture, packaged in bags, is perfect, from which you can independently prepare a ready-to-use material. This is not difficult to do, but it is important to follow the correct cooking technique:

1) Pour one third of clean water into a clean, preferably plastic container. Water must be taken cool or even cold, since hot water accelerates the hardening of the finished putty.

2) A dry putty mixture is poured into the water. It is difficult to say exactly quantitatively, it all depends on the manufacturer and needs. Manufacturer recommendations and experience will help to resolve this issue.

Firstly, the packages always indicate the proportion of water and dry component, which will allow you to get a ready-to-use mass. Secondly, having tried the ready-made putty prepared according to the instructions, you may need a thicker, or, conversely, a thinner consistency. Of course, in the process of stirring the mass, the dry product can be added, therefore, initially try not to exceed the amount indicated on the package.

3) For the next step, you will need a construction mixer. Having installed it on a perforator, it is necessary to perform the initial mixing of the mixture. Its purpose is to completely moisten the dry powder with water. It is necessary to stir at low speed of the tool, in slow circular movements, being careful not to scatter the putty around the container.

After the initial mixing, you need to leave the mixture for five to ten minutes, this is necessary so that the water completely soaks the dry putty, and especially the lumps that it contains.

4) Mix again using the same construction mixer. More intensive mixing is possible this time. After that, leave the mixture alone again to swell. Thus, it is necessary to do three to four approaches, alternating the processes of mixing and settling the finished mixture. You need to stir for three minutes, to defend - about five. Thus, gradually, the consistency will reach the desired - medium density and high plasticity.

It is important to prepare not too much putty, as it is not stored ready-made. In this case, it is more convenient to get a smaller amount, and, if necessary, finish more. The thickening mixture is also not suitable for dilution with water and further use - since the formation of lumps in this case is simply inevitable. Therefore, the thickened or completely hardened putty must be thrown away, washed the container in which it was and prepared again.

Plastered walls

Correct adherence to the technology of this process requires the application of putty, at least in two layers - starting and then finishing. But in fact, there may be more layers - depending on the condition of the walls and their visible defects.

1) To apply putties, you need two spatulas - a wide and a narrow one. A wide spatula should be slightly less than the diameter of the container in which the putty is located - this is necessary so that it can fit there. The second, narrow, spatula is needed in order to distribute the putty along the entire length of the wide one, as well as to correct blemishes. He can also recruit a product for a wide instrument - here everyone develops a technique that is convenient for him.

2) The first layer is a starting putty, it is looser and can be applied in a thicker layer than the finishing one. With its help, you can hide minor wall defects - sinks, small cracks. It is convenient to apply the putty from the bottom up, using a wide spatula. The spatula is held by the handle with three fingers, and two - the middle and forefinger, are stops and it is convenient to adjust the pressing force on the spatula, holding it from above, by the plastic base.

The finished putty is flexible and easy to apply, it must be uniform and not contain lumps or other inclusions. It is necessary to apply the solution as evenly as possible, avoiding irregularities or visually noticeable strokes - a wide spatula helps perfectly with this. It is advisable to work quickly, since the putty mixture hardens rather quickly and after some fifteen to twenty minutes it will be problematic to correct the application errors.

3) You can continue to work only after the first layer is completely dry. If many layers are supposed to be made, then at this stage it will be best to use a reinforcing mesh.

After the layer of starting putty has dried, the network must be fixed on the wall with temporary fasteners, and then a layer of finishing putty must be applied. It should be applied in such a way as to hide the mesh as much as possible, but at the same time, not in a too thick layer - as much as possible, it should be no more than five millimeters. After this layer is applied, you should also wait until it dries completely. If the reinforcing network is not completely covered by the first layer of putty, then another layer must be applied, which will completely hide it. This layer should also dry well.

4) The next stage is the application of the main layer. This is a high quality finishing putty - it is applied very thinly - a couple of millimeters, no more. It must be applied simultaneously, on the entire wall - otherwise, the transitions will be visually noticeable. This layer is not in vain the main one, it should be as even and carefully removed as possible. If, nevertheless, there are minor flaws, then after finishing work and drying the putty, they can be cleaned with a fine sanding mesh.

The grain size of the mesh should be no more than 3 mm mesh, otherwise, you can damage the thin layer of the topcoat and leave visually noticeable traces of sanding. In no case should you use fabric-based sandpaper - after such processing, noticeable traces remain almost always!

The finished surface, finished with putty, dries, depending on the room temperature - from 8 to 24 hours. After complete drying, further finishing work is possible.

Rating of the best putties

The modern construction market does not stand still and every year pleases consumers with new products, including putty mixtures. Today, according to the results of customer surveys, certain products are in the lead.

Starting putties

Volma Standard. This starting putty has proven itself well both in Russia and abroad. Well suited both for leveling surfaces and for finishing. Suitable for plaster or cement walls. Proven best when used indoors.

Although this composition is intended for initial application, many experts note that with its help it is possible to obtain a finished surface, without applying a "finish", since this putty is easy to grind and does not leave any defects. This material is of high quality, easy to use and affordable. Among the disadvantages can be called a rather long drying time.

Establish Econcilk. The product of domestic production, has firmly established itself in the market of finishing materials. The putty of this brand is convenient for its plasticity, attractive appearance and, of course, very democratic cost.

It can be applied in a not too thick layer, preferably up to 5 millimeters. Unfortunately, if this condition is not met, then after drying, cracks may appear on the finished surface.

Bolars Facade. It is recognized as the best putty for facades, because of its excellent performance properties: frost resistance, not susceptible to atmospheric precipitation. It can also be used in rooms with increased steam generation. It has a high resistance to mechanical damage, good vapor permeability, which allows the walls to "breathe" and creates the correct circulation of moisture in the room.

The maximum allowable layer is up to 10 millimeters, and this is without cracking. Accordingly, this plus entails a minus - a large expense. Also, some unpleasant moment is its high cost.

Finishing putties

Sheetrock SuperFinish is rightfully ranked first among finishing products. It has the smallest grain size among putties, it is 0.03 millimeters.

This fact allows you to get a smooth, ideal surface with the putty, on almost any wall - concrete, and others. When dry, this putty does not crack, again because of its fine structure - it adheres tightly to surfaces and does not exfoliate. All these advantages are complemented by the quite acceptable cost of the product, which makes it an excellent solution for every customer.

By the way, until 2016, the putty bucket had a different look. Then KG Stroy Sistemy transfers the SHEETROCK® line of ready-made fillers under the umbrella brand of building materials DANOGIPS.

Knauf Rotband Pasta is a vinyl based putty. It is versatile in terms of the processed surfaces, suitable for concrete, gypsum boards and others, has a good adhesive ability.

Another distinctive feature: fast drying - about 5 hours. Some disadvantage is that this ready-to-use putty mixture gives a high consumption, even when applied with a thickness of about one millimeter. Also, its high cost from 700 rubles is not encouraging.

Ceresit CT 225 is a cement based filler. Suitable for both indoor and outdoor work. Can be applied to cement substrates. The putty has excellent qualities: adhesion, moisture resistance and frost resistance.

It is popular due to the presence of special reinforcing fibers in the composition - they prevent cracking and shrinkage of the finished coating. You should also pay attention to the environmentally friendly composition. Of course, such a putty is not cheap.

Universal putties

Knauf is a fugen. It has proven itself perfectly when used indoors, at room temperatures. In the composition of gypsum-based putty, there are also polymer compounds, which made it possible to make the finished composition elastic. Good adhesive properties.

Suitable for walls made of cement or plastered. The list of advantages is supplemented by low cost and minimal consumption. Despite its versatility, use in rooms with high humidity is not recommended, since the composition is hygroscopic.

VGT acrylic, universal. Completely ready for use immediately after opening the package. Suitable for warm interiors, without increased vaporization and moisture. It is possible to apply in a thick layer - up to seven millimeters. Suitable for wood, concrete, plaster and cement surfaces. Cons: rather high consumption, the possibility of shrinkage when the composition dries and a rather large dustiness during subsequent processing.

UNIS BLINK. Plaster based putty. Convenient in that it can be applied in a different layer - both thin and thick. According to the manufacturer's recommendations, the application layer can range from half a millimeter to eight millimeters. It is also convenient and quick drying of the mixture - even with a thick layer, it will take no more than seven hours.

The putty is easy to use, flexible and does not crack. However, there are also disadvantages: high consumption, the presence of foreign inclusions - pebbles may come across that interfere with the uniform distribution of the mass over the wall surface.

Puttying the walls is an invariable attribute of any renovation work. Even with flat walls or plasterboard sheathing, it will still be necessary. Modern manufacturers of building materials, every day develop and launch new putties in production, striving to satisfy the most demanding customers. There is a putty on the shelves of building hypermarkets, suitable for any surface, budget and application possibilities. It is only important to decide what exactly you need and make the right choice.