Metal frame under wooden lining. Ways of fastening the ceiling lining. Preparing walls for framing

If you think that the technology of cladding a balcony with clapboard is too complicated, then this is not so. I will tell you how to carry out the work without outside help quickly and efficiently. We will consider the option using metal frame– it is stronger and more durable than traditional wooden block.

Work technology

Sheathing with clapboard balcony is made in a certain sequence. You just need to follow all the tips in order to cope with the job even without experience. It is important to remember a simple rule: you only need to use it, since the attractiveness of the final result directly depends on this.

What is needed for work

Material	Selection Guide
clapboard	Use only the highest and first grade options, they look better than others and have almost no flaws. The calculation of the quantity is simple: the dimensions of all sheathed surfaces are measured, and the area in square meters. It is worth purchasing material with a small margin, since waste is inevitably generated during sheathing
Frame profile	We will use a guide and a main drywall profile. The first option is used to create a frame around the perimeter, and the second to create a strong crate, on which the fastening will be made. In addition, you need suspensions, with their help you can quickly set the ideal position of the elements.
fasteners	Fast mounting dowels are used to fix the suspensions, special self-tapping bugs are used to connect the profile to each other. As for fixing the lining, it is best to use self-tapping screws with a press washer for work

Now let's deal with the tool, since without it lining balconies with clapboard with your own hands is impossible:

Metal shears. The profile is cut with ordinary hand-held metal shears. As for the tree, then an ordinary hacksaw is enough;

Perforator- necessary for drilling holes for dowels;
screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws (with appropriate nozzles);
Measuring tool. In the work you can not do without a level, tape measure and pencil. You can not build a frame without controlling the plane.

Description of the workflow

The procedure for lining the balcony with clapboard is as follows:

Marking for profile fastening. First of all, it is necessary to mark the surfaces for fastening the wall profile. It is best to draw a line using a level, along which the structure will be exposed;

Important! To fix the frame securely and set it evenly, you need to find the most protruding part of the surface and start from it.

Rack markings. Further, lines are drawn along the surface along which the main racks will be located. Elements should be located in increments of 40 cm, marking is done at this distance;
Wall profile fastened around the perimeter, for this, marks are made on the wall and holes are drilled, the depth and diameter of which must correspond to the size of the dowels. A dowel is inserted into the hole, after which the screw is simply hammered. It does not need to be twisted, which greatly simplifies and speeds up the process;

If you have a surface made of wood or aerated concrete, then you do not need to drill holes for the dowels. You can simply attach it with self-tapping screws 30mm long or more. Fastener spacing - no more than 50 cm;

Hangers fastened along the line of passage of the main racks at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is important to firmly fix them, as these elements will be responsible for the rigidity of the structure;
Main profile fixing.

The step by step guide looks like this:

Element inserted into the guide bar, exposed to desired position and fixed with self-tapping screws;
Hangers bend to the rack, with the help of the level, the ideal position is set and fixed;

Corner trim. On the balcony, work with wooden clapboard starts from the corner. Fastening can be done like this:
- self-tapping screws through the top of the elements;
- self-tapping screws through the panel spike;
- clamps (they are also fixed with screws).

Mounting through a ledge- the simplest solution, the diagram below shows just such an option. It is important to position the mount so that it is covered by the next panel;

sheathing wooden lining of the balcony is made until all sections are closed. Lastly, you need to fix the corners and skirting boards to close the joints and improve the appearance of the surfaces.

Hello, I am interested in the question of mounting a wooden lining on a metal profile. Is it possible to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? Or are there other methods of fastening (profile for GPU)?

Dmitry, Ukraine.

Hello Dmitry from Ukraine!

You must have some kind of non-standard situation if the question concerns the installation of lining on a metal profile of the GP type.

Of course, when a wooden one is mounted on wooden cranial bars, or on a mounting profile (also metal, galvanized or aluminum) in the form of rails. Which in turn are attached to the wall or ceiling.

Metal profile type GP (GP-8, GP-12, etc.) is a sheet, from the end resembling a trapezoidal contour with wide fungi and a narrow bottom, a shelf height of 8, 12, etc. millimeters. Or GP-20 D, which, on the contrary, has fungi of small width, and bottoms of large width.

Accordingly, the same GP-8 is used to protect the facade surfaces of buildings, indoors, and sometimes for the construction of fences. A GP-20 D for the roof.

If you wish to attach wooden lining to a metal profile, it is clear that this cannot be done with nails, because, having broken through the lining, the nail will rest against the metal and not every nail is able to break through standard thickness galvanization. It will simply bend if it is galvanized finish, and not ordinary steel with a diameter of three millimeters. But such lining, with rare exceptions, is not fixed.

Theoretically, it is possible to sew a lining onto a GP profile using self-tapping screws, preferably metal self-tapping screws, in which the knurling (pitch) of the thread is finer. Such self-tapping screws will hold stronger, unlike wood screws. Self-tapping screws either black or galvanized with a press washer (which is made integral with the self-tapping screw, not separately). Roofing screws should be used with care as they can twist the lining with their self-tapping edges.

But this laborious way, more often they use the method when first it is mounted on the metal profile wooden plank or a bar with several self-tapping screws, and then the lining itself is nailed to this bar-bar with nails. This will make your life easier, since it will not be necessary to fasten each lining with self-tapping screws directly to the metal.

/ If the lining is exposed to moisture, for example, it is a fence on the street, then self-tapping screws are much more preferable than nails, which can be pulled out when wet boards are warped. /

Two more points. Don't forget about relative position lining and metal profiles. The lining should be directed perpendicular to the direction of the profile waves. Then you will clearly get fasteners to the top of the profile waves, and not where anyhow. / If you first fasten the wooden planks, which were mentioned above, then both the metal profile and the lining will be located in the same direction. /

In addition, it is always highly desirable to have a layer of film between metal and wood to waterproof one from the other. It can be glassine, moisture, thermal protective film and all films of a similar purpose.

Do not forget that the sharp ends of the screws will stick out on the other side of the metal profile. It's one thing if it doesn't affect anything. Another thing, if it is visible from the outside of the building, this disgrace will have to be closed.

And the last thing - do not forget that you need to measure your efforts when wrapping self-tapping screws. So that they are tightly and completely wrapped, and that when wrapping it is sometimes necessary to take measures against deflection of the profile sheets from the applied forces.

This is my take on your issue.

Frame construction is becoming more and more popular in our country. Today, it is no longer a secret that in terms of their main properties, buildings are in no way inferior to their log counterparts and meet all the requirements for modern housing:

they are warm enough
durable,
can be used for quite a long time
have good sound insulation
not subject to shrinkage.

sheathing frame house can be made from various materials.

Deciding what to wear frame house, it should be borne in mind that the main functions of the skin are:

home frame protection
additional strengthening of the walls of the house,
creating an attractive appearance of the facade,
design of the exterior of the building in the intended style.

Properly selected and properly mounted, the cladding will give the house a finished look, hide cosmetic wall defects (if any), and protect against aggressive environmental influences.

There are a lot of options for sheathing; a variety of shapes and materials are presented on the construction market. The choice, as a rule, is limited only by the preferences of the developer and his financial capabilities. In this article, we will consider all the main main types of cladding used in the design of the facades of a frame house.

Sheathing with wooden clapboard

Despite the fact that wooden paneling looks a little out of date, many people prefer it, because in comparison with others, wooden lining is the most environmentally friendly and vapor-permeable material. In addition, the installation of wooden lining itself does not cause any particular difficulties.

One of the disadvantages of wood paneling is its fragility. In order for the lining to retain its aesthetically attractive appearance and to protect it from destruction, it is required to cover the wood with impregnation or paint it. wood paneling needs regular care.

The house is sheathed with wood-polymer clapboard

Also, the modern construction industry offers for finishing such material as moisture-resistant lining, external wood-polymer. It is more practical, as it is not subject to decay and does not require such private care as wood.

Timber imitation finish

Sheathing-frame-house-imitation-timber

The outer skin of the house can be made from another wooden material- imitation of timber. This is a good alternative to lining if you consider the latter to be a somewhat primitive and outdated finishing material.

Block house in sheathing on a frame house

A specially processed (hot) block house is quite durable, as it is not afraid of even sudden changes in temperature.

Siding for a frame house

- one of modern materials for the outer skin of a frame house, which is now becoming more and more popular. It consists of separate panels that are fastened together with latches. Siding is used in the design of facades not only for private houses, but also for office buildings, entertainment centers, etc.

Although the main function is to decorate and protect the facade of the house, it also serves as an additional element to strengthen the frame structure.

Siding fastening is built on the principle of the same sheathing board. Each panel has a snap lock and a perforated edge for nails.

Siding varies in size: length 2-6 m, width 10-30 cm, thickness up to 1 cm.

The profile of the panels can be made with a single ("herringbone") and double fracture ("ship plank"). This characteristic is purely aesthetic, it does not affect the basic functions of the material.

Used to make siding various materials: ceramics, steel, wood, aluminum, etc. Appearance siding - pretty neat. If we add to this such indicators as strength and durability (the coating does not change its original appearance for up to 10 years), then the popularity that this material enjoys in modern construction becomes clear.

Regardless of what material was used in the manufacture, outside on the panel

Attaching siding to decking

applied polymer coating or paint that protect them from corrosion.

In care, siding is extremely simple: it is easy to clean and does not require any application. protective compounds(paints, impregnations, etc.). It is also completely safe and environmentally friendly.

The siding is attached to (made of wood or metal), in the course of facing work, the building can also be insulated.

Other materials for the outer skin of the house

Also in building cladding, frame houses, materials such as:

Each of these methods is used quite actively in construction today. Sheathing the house outside is an issue that is decided individually. It all depends on your goals and objectives that you set for yourself, and this is also a matter of taste.

The crate for lining greatly facilitates the process of external and interior decoration, even the additional chores for its arrangement should not be exaggerated. The benefits of this stage are significant, especially if you have noticeable defects on the walls, which will not allow you to mount the lining directly on a sheer surface.

Why is it necessary to install the crate under the lining?

Regardless of the lining material, natural or not, the main factor determining the quality of the finish is the degree of evenness of the wall on which it will be attached. Everyone knows that you can mount the planks directly on the wall, but each defect (hollow, bulge) will cause a slight skew or difference in the level of the rows, etc. Why does imperfection move from row to row, gaining more and more visual strength, and as a result the last row you will have a squint at all, and you won’t be able to close and correct it with anything.

To prevent ugliness from happening, they first make the installation of the crate for the lining, and this technique is used in almost 99% of cases, because it is ideal smooth walls not in old Soviet houses, nor in new ones. Even if outwardly you do not see irregularities, test the wall with a level or plumb line, measure its length at the bottom and at the top, and the hidden enemy of a beautiful finish will be revealed. The essence of the crate is simple: it is a kind of mesh made of wood or metal (plastic is also found today), which helps to raise the lining above the wall, and the evenness and attractiveness of the finish will depend only on the level of the crate, but the imperfections of the wall will hide under this frame.

Crate for lining - choose the material

To date, three types of materials for crates are known, they all have their advantages and disadvantages, we will try to briefly touch on the most important ones. Let's start, perhaps, with wood, as the most familiar and accessible material to us. Under the crate, bars with a parameter of 2.5-5 cm are used. This range is given for a choice the best option for different types lining, because it is also not only wooden. Basically, you should be guided by the fact that the frame must withstand the weight of the finish and not weigh down the room, taking up extra space. Indeed, for fastening a light lining, it is not at all worth taking the largest bars.

But everyone knows the disadvantages of wood: easy flammability and moisture intolerance. Of course, today all this is solved with the help of numerous impregnations, but you can change your habits a little and choose metallic profile. These are galvanized corners, from which the same mesh-like frame is built, on which the lining plates are then attached. It is devoid of the disadvantages of wood, but has its own, for example, a high price. The plastic frame is not at all as accessible as the previous two, and is very specific, it is produced more often for special needs than for common use. Therefore, it can be ignored.

The website site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of lining.

How to make a crate for lining - fastening methods

counting the number required material for the crate, they start with the project, that is, how it will look (the mesh or guides will be in only one plane), what size the planks of the lining are planned, which will be finished, whether the room will be insulated (then the heater is placed in the crate). When calculating the geometry, it should be remembered that the frame is first made along the perimeter, and then intermediate ribs of the crate are mounted at the same distance from each other. The distance between them should be such that the planks of the lining do not bend.

If the planks are long, then several supporting elements of the crate should be placed under them. In the case of using a heater, its dimensions should also be taken into account, for example, the parameters of a mineral wool sheet. Moreover, the crate cell needs to be made a little narrower (literally a centimeter) so that the insulation sits tightly. At the stage of creating the crate, all communications are laid, they will successfully hide under the lining, without bothering the eye over the finish, this, so to speak, is an additional bonus of using this frame.

The location of the crate can be horizontal (the bars are only parallel to the floor), vertical (perpendicular to the floor) and using a counter-crate (this is the grid-like frame). The latter option is rarely used, then another one is attached perpendicularly on top of one layer of bars, a grid with square cells is obtained. This is done in the case of using a heater or for increased ventilation of the finish.. And the direction of the usual crate is determined only by the location of the lining strips, the bars and trim strips should be perpendicular.

If the lining is attached parallel to the floor, then the lathing bars should be vertical, when the planks are perpendicular to the floor, then the lathing should become horizontal.

How to make a crate of wood?

If your choice fell on wooden crate, then you will find everything necessary advice and recommendations for correct installation. We will not analyze how to make a crate for lining from other materials due to their rare use in private repairs.

How to make a wooden crate - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Wireframe layout

The frame is considered the perimeter, that is, the basis of the foundations, so you outline the boundaries and you will know total area, which needs to be covered with intermediate rails located at the same distance from each other. Already at this stage, all wall defects should be carefully aligned, because a guideline will be taken along the frame for stuffing and aligning all intermediate supporting elements. To do this, actively use a plumb line or building level(depending on the direction of the crate). In case of uneven contact of the bar with the wall, place substrates (wedges) under it. So you will achieve flat surface, which will rest securely on the wall, and not hang in the air.

Sometimes you have to act reverse order, do not put additional material, and grind off an existing one, make the bars a little thinner to level the base. In order to understand whether to lay the material or to squeeze, it is necessary, when marking, to determine the nature and number of irregularities in the wall, calculate the most protruding part, the amount of its protrusion, as well as the number and nature of smaller defects. After weighing all this, you can decide what will be more practical and easier to do.

Step 2: Mounting the frame

Having marked everything and determined how to eliminate defects, it's time to attach the guides around the perimeter. This is done with dowels and screws, and the fasteners should meet every 25 cm. Having created the edging of the crate, check the uniformity of the created plane with a level. The fastening of the beams around the openings for windows and doors also belongs to the frame, they also need to be circled with a wooden border, as it were, in order to qualitatively fix the lining there.

Step 3: Creating an intermediate part of the crate

Now all the remaining material for the planned project is being stuffed. Do not try to place the ends of the intermediate bars close to the frame around the perimeter, and even more so it is not worth connecting them. Leave a small gap in case the tree expands or shrinks so that these parts do not warp each other in case of seasonal changes. They also need to be fastened with dowels and screws, so even without fixing on the frame, the intermediate elements will hold well on their own.

Start fixing each beam should be in two places - one screw at the top and one at the bottom. Then look at the entire wall, what defects fall under the fixed beam, determine the type of substrates, level the plane with a level or plumb line, and only then fix the entire structure with a screw. This is how each bar of the crate is verified, and as it is ready, periodically look at everything to make sure it matches.

Step 4: Finishing the job

When you have fixed all the bars, you should make a final level check. Why do we put so much emphasis on this in every step, because for this purpose the crate is made in order to perfectly align the wall. Otherwise, clapboard trim will immediately give out the imperfections of your home, so mistakes are unacceptable here. If the check showed that the wall has become even, you need to do finishing touch- treat the wood with impregnations against mold, fungi and susceptibility to fire. After they dry, you can proceed to the planned decoration of the room.

Sheathing with clapboard surfaces is carried out in several interrelated stages, each of which requires a special approach. Careful implementation of all technological procedures is a guarantee that it will be possible to obtain reliable coverage, characterized by excellent properties and environmental friendliness. The material is ideal for any kind of work.

Lining - is a board (of different thicknesses), which is made from various breeds tree. The material got its name from the original place of use. Namely, train cars, the inner surfaces of which were sheathed with small wooden slats which created an excellent microclimate. Currently, the wood product is returning to its former popularity, which decreased slightly when plastic and MDF options began to appear.

The modern construction market offers a large assortment lining types

It must be borne in mind that do-it-yourself wall cladding with clapboard requires a balanced approach. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to the product at the stage of its acquisition. Pay attention to the following points:

Proper storage of purchased goods. Packages must be stored in a horizontal position on a support.
The humidity level of the warehouse should be within the normal range.
It is not allowed to find products in open space, under the rays of sunlight.

You should also pay attention to the expiration date on the label.

All information about the storage and shelf life of the lining should be indicated on the packaging of the material.

Such a precaution is necessary in order to mitigate possible risks. The fact is that work with lining is carried out only after they are completely convinced that the material meets all standards.

On a note! The product should be purchased with the necessary margin, which is equal to ten percent. To get the exact number of elements, preliminary calculations are carried out, and a scheme is drawn up. It is important to consider that the size of the width of each fragment is measured by the internal depth. That is, it is necessary to subtract the depth of the groove (10-12 mm).

It is necessary to buy material with a margin of 10%

Material handling

After buying the right amount of products and fasteners, the question immediately arises: how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard? But this is not a top priority. You need to know that the material needs pre-treatment, because in production, no actions other than manufacturing are performed. Therefore, the following manipulations are performed:

Coniferous woods need complete degreasing. All resin stains are removed. The boards are well washed with acetone (25% solution is required). Further, they are carefully wiped with rags previously moistened with water. After all the steps - the products are dried.
To obtain the same shade of the surface, each fragment is processed with a pre-prepared mixture. It consists of hydrogen peroxide and acid (oxalic). The solution is prepared based on the type of wood.
All damages, even minor ones, are repaired with putty. It is better to choose a mixture of wood. You can buy it at the store or make your own.
If you want to change the shade, then use stain or other special impregnations that preserve the texture of the wood.

Processing lining allows you to extend its service life and change the color of the material

Of course, you can find products that will be pre-finished, but their cost will be essentially yours.

On a note! You can't skip preprocessing. This will be a gross violation of the technology for lining surfaces with clapboard.

There are two main options for lining the surface with clapboard: glue and frame. The first requires a perfectly flat plane. Therefore, a method that involves the construction of a crate is preferable. In addition, it allows you to create additional space for warming the room.

The erection of the frame gives additional features for room insulation

To attach the lining to the wall you will need:

Tool. In this case, it is necessary to prepare: a drill with various nozzles, a level (plumb), a hammer, pliers, electric jigsaw or hand saw.
Rails for the frame. For this purpose, a solid wooden beam with a cross section of 30 * 60 mm is excellent. Substrates are prepared immediately. They are used to level the racks.
On a note! If the surface has a significant slope, then setting wooden beam turns out to be a rather complicated process. In this case, a metal profile is used.
Fasteners: self-tapping screws, dowels, carnations, kleimers; if required, then additional elements for the frame (suspension).

You should be aware that before sheathing with clapboard, even if the frame method is used, it is required preliminary preparation surfaces. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that the old decorative layer is removed, and all defects are well smeared. Additionally, priming is carried out.

Creating a crate

The crate is carefully attached to the wall. The order of placement of the rails is determined by the chosen scheme for laying the lining.

The beam is treated with refractory impregnation and mold protection. Wood paneling suggests that the wall will be dry.
The slats should be perpendicular to the decorative boards.
A single distance is established between the rails, the step of which is 40-50 cm.
Be sure to leave a gap between the ceiling and the floor. This is especially important for wooden houses which are subject to constant shrinkage.
The evenness of the installation of the frame for cladding with wooden clapboard is carefully checked. To do this, use the building level and plumb lines.
If an empty space is formed between the wall and the rail, then it is filled with prepared dies.

The empty space between the rail and the wall is filled with wooden dies

On a note! The crate makes it possible to finish the walls with an additional layer of insulation. It is fixed directly between the racks.

Choosing a Fixation Option

Immediately determined with the method of fixation. After all, clapboard lining can be performed different methods:

Mounting the lining on the kleimers allows you to make the fasteners invisible

The necessary fasteners are selected based on specific situation. Currently, kleimers are becoming more and more popular.

Attachment of decorative material

Fastening the lining begins with the fact that the material is brought into the room and left for two days. This time is necessary for the product to fully acclimatize. If you carry out the installation immediately, then there is a high probability that the warping of the elements will begin - the structure will be deformed. Work is carried out only at a positive temperature and humidity, which is not less than 60%.

Previously, the lining is brought into the room and left for two days

The general technique is:

Often the installation of boards is carried out in a horizontal manner. Therefore, the first element is installed at the bottom so that the spike looks up.
Fixing starts from the corner, which is away from the main entrance to the room.
The first board is well checked for level, the horizontal and vertical planes are taken into account. If even small deviations are allowed, they will become very noticeable when the top panel is attached.
The first fragment is fixed. Once again, the possibility of deviations is checked.
Next, the following elements are installed, which are first grooved, and then fixed.

But how to sheathe a wall with clapboard vertically? The procedure is the same as before:

Elements are located from the far corner. The first fragment is exposed and fixed.
The following elements are inserted into the groove and fixed. It is important to check that the joint is fully connected. To do this, lightly tap the rail along the edge.
For this method, a wider rail is used. It creates a beautiful surface with fewer joints.

With experience, the walls can be finished in one day (even with the frame). When installation is complete, attach decorative elements: corners and plinths. The surface is well impregnated with stain and varnished.

House decoration outside

Finishing the house with clapboard outside

Sheathing the house with clapboard outside - almost completely repeats interior work. The procedure is divided into three stages: marking, installation of the crate and cladding. But there are some nuances:

Two racks must be installed at each corner of the house.
Window and door openings are framed with a profile (beam).
Used for work quality board, which does not have drop-down knots.
Fixation is carried out through.
Elements are fastened with a groove down. This prevents the accumulation of precipitation.

If you understand the basic rules and study the chosen fixing method well, then the work is done quite quickly. The result will be a surface that will bring comfort and warmth to the interior. natural wood and will delight with its beauty for many years.