Homemade radio retro radio. Homemade radio receiver with low-voltage food with your own hands. Production of cases of radio receiver

This homemade VHF receiver I tried to make in the style of "retro". Front End from the car radio. Marking KSE. Next, the BC in the KIA 6040, UNG on the TDA2006, the speaker 3GD-40, in front of which the stretcher is 4-5 kHz, I do not know exactly, picked up for rumor.

Radio scheme

I don't know how to do digital setting, therefore it will be just a variable resistor, for this unit VHF enough 4.6 volts for full overlap of 87-108 MHz. Initially, I wanted to insert UNG on the P213 transistors, since the "retro" gathered and rebuilt, but he turned out to be too cumbersome, I decided not to show off.

Well, the network filter is installed, of course it does not hurt.

The right-hand indicator was not found, it was more accurate, but it was a pity to put - only 2 remained, so I decided to remake one of the unnecessary M476 (as in the ocean-209) - dispersed the arrow, made the scale.

Illumination - lED Strip Light. Venier is assembled from details of different radio receivers, from lamps to China. The whole scale with the mechanism is removed, its body is glued from many wooden detailsThe stiffness gives the textolit on which the scale is pasted and all this is drawn to the receiver body, in addition additionally pressing the front panels (those with a mesh), which are also removed if desired.

Scale under glass. Handles settings from some kind of radio with landfill, tinted.

In general, the flight of fantasy. I have long wanted to try the curvature of my hands, having built something like that. And here it was just nothing to do, and trimming plywood from repair remained, and the mesh turned up.

Finally, the long-awaited moment comes when the created apparatus begins to "breathe", and the question arises: how to close it "insides" and give the design finishes to use it with convenience. This question is worth specifying and deciding for which the case is intended for all the same.

If enough for the device to have a beautiful appearance and "fit" in the interior, you can make the body from the Fiberboard sheets, plywood, plastics, fiberglass. The details of the housing are connected by screws or glue (using additional "fittings", i.e. Rosek, corners, kosnock, etc.). To give a "commodity view", the case can be painted or saked with a self-adhesive film.

A simple and convenient way to manufacture small buildings at home - from the sheets of foil fiberglass. First, "Laying all nodes and boards inside the volume and pretend the size of the case. Sketches of walls, partitions, board fastening parts, etc. are drawn on ready-made sketches, dimensions are transferred to foil fiberglass, and blanks are cut. You can make all the holes for regulators and indicators in advance, since it is much more convenient to work with the plates than with the finished box.
Cut parts are adjusted, then, fixing the workpiece at right angles to each other, the place of the joints on the inside are paved in the usual solder of a fairly powerful soldering iron. "Subtleties" in such a process are only two: do not forget to give an allowance for the thickness of the material on the desired sides of the workpieces and take into account that the solder is reduced in the amount during frozen, and the paved plates need to be rigidly fixed for the cooling of the solder so that they are "not led".
When the instrument needs protection against electric fields, the housing is performed from conductive materials (aluminum and its alloys, copper, brass, etc.). It is advisable to apply steel when shielding and from a magnetic field is required, and the mass of the machine does not matter. The housing of steel sufficient to ensure the mechanical strength of the thickness (usually 0.3 ... 1.0 mm, depending on the size of the device), especially preferable for receiving-transmitting equipment, as shielding the created device from electromagnetic radiation, interference, filing, etc.
Thin sheet steel has sufficient mechanical strength, It is amenable to bend, stamping, suede enough. True, there is in conventional steel and a negative property: corrosion exposure (rust). To prevent corrosion applied various coatings: oxidation, galvanizing, nickelting, primer (before painting). In order not to worsen the shielding properties of the case, its primer and color should be performed after full assembly (Or leave the oxidized strips of panels in contact with each other (with a detachable case). Otherwise, when assembling parts of the paint case on the chamfer, there are gaps that tear the closed shielding circuit. To combat this, spring "comb" (spring strips oxidized Solid steel, welded or glued to panels), which, when assembling, provide reliable contact of the panels.

Honored popularity enjoys a metal case from two P-shaped parts (Fig. 1) bent from plastic sheet metal or alloy.

The dimensions of the parts are chosen so that when they are installed in one to another, it turns out closed housing without cracks. To connect halves with each other, use screws screwed into threaded holes In the shelves of the base 1 and the corners of the corners 2 (Fig.2).

With a low thickness of the material (less than half of the thread diameter), the hole for the thread is recommended first to drill the drill, the diameter of which is equal to half the thread diameter. Then the hammer blows on the round shill the hole attached a funnel shape, after which the threads are cut in it.

If the material is enough plastic, you can do without corners 2, replacing them with bent "legs" on the basis of them (Fig. 3).

An even more "advanced" option of the rack shown in Fig.4.
Such a rack 3 not only fastens top panel 1 from the bottom 5, but also fixes in the chassis 6 case, on which the elements of the manufactured device are placed. Therefore, no additional fasteners are needed, and the panels do not "decorate" numerous screws. The lower panel is attached to the rack with a screw 2 passing through the leg 4.
Thickness required material Depends on the size of the housing. For a small housing (about 5 to 5 cubic meters. Dm), a sheet is used with a thickness of 1.5 ... 2 mm. A larger body requires, respectively, the sheet is thickening - up to 3 ... 4 mm. This, first of all, refers to the base (bottom panel), since it accounts for the main power load.

The manufacture begins with the calculation of the size of the blanks (Fig. 5).

The length of the workpiece is calculated by the formula:

Having determined the length of the first billet, it is cut out of the sheet and bend (for steel and brass, the bend radius R is equal to the thickness of the sheet, for aluminum alloys - 2 times more). After that, the resulting dimensions A and C are measured. Taking into account the existing size C, determine the width of the second blank (C-2S) and calculate its length by the same formula, substituting:
- instead of a - (a - s);
- instead of R1 - R2;
- instead of s - t.

This technology guarantees an accurate connection of parts.
After the manufacture of both half of the housing, they are adjusted, markup and drilling mounting holes. The required locations cut holes and windows under the control knobs, connectors, indicators and other items. The control assembly and the final fitting of the case are performed.

Sometimes in the P-shaped half it is difficult to place the entire "filling" of the device. For example, on the front panel you need to install a large number of Indication and control bodies. The windows for them in the bent item is inconvenient. Here will help the combined option. Half of the housing with the front panel is made of separate leaf blanks. For their mounting, you can use special corners shown in Fig. 6.

Such a detail is conveniently bonded by three walls in the corner of the case. The sizes of the corners depend on the dimensions of the fastened structural elements.

For the manufacture of a corner, a strip of soft steel is taken, and the fold lines are placed on it. The central part of the workpiece is clamped in vice. Light blows hammer strip bend, then flipped over so that the curved part lay down on the side surface of the vice, and the middle part was slightly clamped. In such a position, the bending rules and the deformation of the strip is eliminated. Now the second side of the part is bends, and, after editing, it turns out the finished fastening unit. It remains to outline on the place and drill holes in which to chop threads.

The equipment, especially the lamp, requires the ventilation of the case. Drilling holes around the entire case is not at all necessary, it is enough to perform them in places where powerful lamps cost (in the top cover of the case), on back wall Over the chassis, several rows of holes in the central part of the bottom cover of the housing and two to three rows of holes on the side walls (at the top). Around each lamp in the chassis should also be holes. Over powerful lamps with forced ventilation Usually cut windows in which the metal grid is fixed.

IN latelyAs a result of rapid moral aging, the housings from the system blocks of computers appeared in the dumps. These housings can be used when creating various amateur radio equipment, especially since the body is in width, it takes very little space. But not always such a vertical layout is suitable. Then you can take the casing from the system unit, cut under the necessary dimensions and "dock" it with "cut-out" from the second of the same casing (or by separate panels - Fig. 7, 8).

With careful manufacture, the housing is turned out to be not bad and already painted.

Simple technology manufacturing equipment for amateur structures with their own hands

Many, especially novice radio amateurs face such a problem as the selection or manufacture of the housing for their design. Trying to place the assembled fee and other components of the future design in the housing from older receivers or toys. In the finished form, this device will look not very aesthetic, extra holes, visible heads of screws, etc. I want to show and tell me on the example and tell me, literally in a couple of hours, making the case for the recently collected SDR receiver.

Baister!

First, we need to make a device to fix the details of the future body. I have already ready for me and I have been successfully using it for a dozen years. This is useful to accurately glue the side walls of the body and exposure to corners of 90 degrees. To do this, cut out of plywood or chipboard part 1 and 2, a thickness of at least 10 mm, as in the photo 1. Of course, it can be different, depending on which cases for designs you plan to be manufactured in the future.

photo 1:

The housing will be from plastic 1.5 mm thick. First, you measure the highest design details, I have cumbersome capacitors on the board (photo 2). It turned out 20 mm, add 1.5 mm textolite thickness and add approximately 5 mm for the racks in which the screws will be screwed when I am attached to the board in the housing. In total, the height of the side walls is 26.5 mm, I don't need such accuracy and I will round this number up to 30mm, a small supply will not hurt. We write that the height of the walls is 30 mm.

photo 2:

The sizes of my printed circuit board are 170x90 mm, to this I will add 2 mm on each side and get sizes 174x94 mm. We write that the bottom of the housing is 174x94 mm.

Almost everything is calculated and proceeding to cut out blanks. When working with plastic, it is convenient to use the mounting knife and a ruler. Literally after 10 minutes I got the rear wall and the blanks of the side walls (photo 3).

photo 3:

Next, clamp the back wall in our previously made "device" and glue the side wall, which in my case has a size of 177x30 mm (photo 4. A). As well as the first wall, we glue the second, turning the workpiece with the other side (photo 4. b). To glue the housing walls, "superciles" is used (for greater strength, you can then walk in the corners adhesive pistolAlso, all the wires can be collected in the harness and glue to the walls of the case).

photo 4:

In photo 5 (a) the result of my work is visible. When the side walls are properly glued and an angle of 90 degrees is set, you can easily glue the remaining 2 walls and mounting racks for fastening the board. In my embodiment, one wall is deaf, and the second with holes for connecting the connectors (photo 5 b).

photo 5:

After gluing the entire body, rounded the napfil or emery paper All angles, it will give the body of smooth lines and it will not look like a brick. After everything is ready, a board is installed, a few drops of glue glue the device cover (photo 6).

photo 6:

Well, a fully assembled receiver in the housing (photo 7) is now installed on the wall, does not interfere and does not spoil the interior of my workplace.

photo 7:

That's all! I spent on all locksmith work for a couple of hours and the first question of my wife was: "What is this alarm?" (joke!)
Success in creative work!

Building housing

For the manufacture of the housing, several sheets of the leaf of the arranged fiberboard of 3mm thick with the following dimensions were drunk:
- front panel measuring 210mm 160mm;
-the lateral walls of 154mm at 130mm;
- the upper and lower wall of 210 mm for 130mm;

- rear wall of 214mm at 154mm;
- Skulls for fastening the receiver scale of 200mm measuring 150mm and 200mm per 100mm.

With wooden bars, the box is glued together using PVA glue. After complete drying of the edge of the edge and the corners of the drawer are grouped to a semicircular state. Split irregularities and flaws. The walls of the drawer and the edges and corners are grouped. If necessary, again put off and grind the box before getting a smooth surface. The scale window marked on the front panel cut out the finishing saw of the electrolyzka. Electrodel drilled holes for the volume control, knobs of setting and switching ranges. The edges of the obtained opening are also grinding. The finished drawer is coated with soil (car ground in aerosol packaging) in several layers with complete drying and equalize the irregularities of the sandpaper. Also, automotive enamel paint the receiver box. From a subtle plexiglass, cut the glass of the scale window and gently glue it from the inside of the front panel. In the end, try on the back wall and install the necessary connectors on it. On the bottom with the help of doublescrees, the plastic legs are dripping. Operating experience has shown that for the reliability of the leg, it is necessary to either glue tightly or secure screws to the bottom.

Holes for handles

Manufacturing chassis

The third version of the chassis is shown in the photos. The scale of fastening the scale is finalized to the indoor drawer. After refinement on the table, they are celebrated and done required holes For controls. The chassis is assembled using four wooden bars with a cross section of 25 mm by 10 mm. Bruks fasten the rear wall of the box and the scale fastening panel. For the attachment, postal nails and glue are applied. To the lower bars and walls of the chassis are glued horizontal panel Chassis with pre-made cutouts for placing a capacitance variable, volume controller and holes for setting the output transformer.

Electrical circuit diagram

maketling did not work for me. In the debugging process, refused the reflex scheme. With one RF transistor and repeated as the original UNF scheme, the receiver earned 10km from the transmitting center. EXPERIMENTS WITH POWER EXPERIENCE Low voltage, as an earthen battery (0.5 volt), showed insufficient power of amplifiers for loud-speaking reception. It was decided to raise the voltage to 0.8-2.0 volts. The result was positive. Such a receiver scheme was fast and in the two band variant installed in the cottage in 150km from the transmitting center. With a connected external stationary antenna 12 meters long, the receiver installed on the veranda completely voiced the room. But when the air temperature decreases with the onset of autumn and frost, the receiver moved to self-excitation mode, which forced to adjust the device depending on the air temperature in the room. I had to study the theory and make changes to the scheme. Now the receiver has been steadily worked up to temperature -15С. The fee for the stability of the work is a decrease in efficiency almost twice, due to the increase in transistor rest currents. In mind the absence of constant broadcasting, from the range of DV refused. This single-band variant of the circuit and is depicted in the photo.

Installation of the radio

Homemade printed circuit board The receiver is made under the scheme of the original and has already been refined in field conditions To prevent self-excitation. The board is installed on the chassis with a thermoclaus. For the shielding of the L3 choke, an aluminum screen connected to a common wire is applied. The magnetic antenna In the first chassis variants were installed at the top of the receiver. But periodically placed on the receiver metal subjects and cell Phoneswho violated the work of the device, so the magnetic antenna placed the chassis in the basement, simply by gluing it to the panel. KPU with an air dielectric is installed using the screws on the scale panel, the volume control is fixed there. The output transformer is used ready from the lamp tape recorder, assume that any transformer from the Chinese power supply unit will fit for replacement. The power switch at the receiver is not provided. Volume control is required. At night and on "fresh batteries", the receiver begins to sound loudly, but due to the primitive design of UNG, when playing, distortions are started, eliminating the volume. The receiver scale is made spontaneously. The appearance of the scale is compiled using the Visio program, followed by the translation of the image in a negative view. The finished scale was printed on dense paper with a laser printer. The scale must be printed on dense paper, with a temperature drop and humidity, office paper will do the waves and will not restore the former. The scale is completely glued to the panel. The arrow applied copper winding wire. In my version, this is a beautiful winding wire from the burnt Chinese transformer. The arrow is fixed on the axis with glue. Settings handles are made from covers of carbonated drinks. A pen the desired diameter Just with the help of the thermal stack glued into the lid.

Board with elements

Receiver assembled

Nutrition of the radio

As mentioned above, the "earth" version did not go. As alternative sources It was decided to use the "A" and "AA" format batteries. The farm constantly accumulates the seed batteries from lanterns and various gadgets. Sorted batteries with voltage below one volt and steel power sources. The first version of the receiver worked 8 months on one battery of the format "A" from September to May. Especially for nutrition from the "AA" format batteries on the back of the back container. Small current consumption involves the power receiver from solar batteries Garden lanterns, but so far this question is irrelevant due to the reduction of power sources of the AA format. Organization of nutrition by throwing batteries and served as the name "Recycler-1" name.

Loudspeaker homemade radio

I do not urge to use the loudspeaker shown in the photo. But it is this box of distant 70s that gives the maximum volume from weak signals. Of course, other columns are suitable, but the rule works here - the more the better.

Outcome

I want to say that collected receiverhaving a slight sensitivity, not affected by the radio interference from televisions and pulse power sources, and the quality of sound reproduction from industrial am receivers is different puree and saturation. During all sorts of energy accidents, the receiver remains the only source of program listening. Of course, the receiver's diagram is primitive, there are schemes of better equipment with economical food, but this hand-made receiver works and with its "duties" copes. Exhaust batteries are working properly. The receiver scale is made with humor and jokes - no one notices for some reason!

Final video

Hello everybody! Many radio amateurs, after they made the next hand, get up to the dilemma - where all this "shove", and so that then people would not be ashamed to show. Well, let's say with the corps at present, it is not such a big problem. Now you can find on sale a lot of finished buildings, or use suitable enclosures from any failed and disassembled to the details of the radio equipment for your designs, as well as applying materials in your own crafts or at all that it will fall on hand.
But to give so to speak the "commodity" of his design or to please the eye, at home - is the problem of not one radio amateler.
I will try to briefly describe here how to make the front panels to his crafts at home.

For the development and drawing of the front panel, I use free program FrontDesigner_3.0. The program in use is very simple, everything becomes clear immediately, in the process of working with it. It has a large library of sprites (drawings), it is something like Sprint Layout 6.0.
What are the sheet materials that are now most affordable for a radio amateur is plexiglas, plastic, plywood, metal, paper, various decorative films and so on. Everyone chooses for himself what is more suitable for aesthetic, material and other conditions.

How I make my panels:

1 - I pre-think and set it in places what will be installed on the front panel in my design. Since the front panel is a kind of "sandwich" (Plexiglas - paper - metal or plastic) and this sandwich is necessary to somehow bore in each other, I use the principle - how it all will hold on and in what places. If the mounting screws on the panel are not provided, then only nuts fastening connectors, variable resistances, switches and other mounting elements remain for this purpose.

All these elements try to distribute on the panel evenly, for reliable fastening Allone component parts Between themselves and fastening the panel itself on the body of the future design.
As an example - on the first photo fastening places of the future power supply, covered with red rectangles - this is my resistance variables, the jacks of the "banana", switch.
In the second photo, the second version of the power supply is all similar. On the third photos of the next front panel version are LED holders, enconductor, sockets, switch.

2 - Then I draw the front panel in the FrontDesigner_3.0 program and printing on the printer (there is a h / w printer at home) so to speak the draft version.

3 - from the plexiglass (it is also called acrylic glass or just acrylic) I cut the workpiece for the future panel. I take the plexiglass mainly in advertisers. Sometimes they give it so much, and sometimes you have to take for money.

5 - then through these punctures, marker makes markup on acrylic (plexiglass) and on the building of its future design.

6 - Also on the case I make markup for all other available holes on the panel, on indicators, switches, etc. ...

7 - How to fix on the front panel, or the case of the design indicator or display ?? If the structure of the structure is made of plastic, then this is not a problem - drilled the hole, dismissed, put the screws with secret head, Supported washers under the display (or tube) and everything, the problem is solved. And if the metal, and even thin? Then it does not roll, perfect smooth surface Under the front panel, this way is not to get and the appearance will not be.
Of course you can try to plant screws with back side Cases and on thermo glue or gluing "epoxy" who like it. But I don't like it like that, as too in Chinese, I do my beloved for myself. Therefore, I do a little different here.

I take a matching head with a secret head (such easier to solder). Screw mounting and screws themselves Rent a solder (and flux for the soldering of metals), and soldering the screws. From the reverse side it can not be very aesthetic, but cheap, reliably and practical.

8 - Then, when everything is ready and all holes are drilled, cut out and processed, the panel pattern is printed on a color printer at home (or at a neighbor). You can print a picture where you print photos, you first need to export the file to the graphical format and adjust its dimensions under the intended panel.

Next, I collect all this "sandwich" together. Sometimes, so that the nuts from alternating resistance can not be seen, it is necessary to cut his rod (shaft). Then the cap sits deeper and the nuts from the cap is almost not visible.

9 - here Look at some copies of the front panels of my designs, some of which are also depicted at the beginning of the article under the heading. Of course, it may not be "super-duper", but it is quite decent, and to show your friends will not be ashamed.

P.S. You can make a little easier and do without plexiglass. If color inscriptions are not provided, you can print a picture of the future panel on a blackly white printer, on color or white paper, or, if the drawing and inscriptions in color - then print on the color printer, then it's all this matter to be illuminated (in order not to The paper was quickly swollen) and glue it into a thin double-sided tape. Then, the whole thing is attached (sticks) on the device body in place of the intended panel.
Example:
It was used for the front panel. Old printed circuit board. In the photos, it can be seen how the initial design version was, and how he became at the end.

Or here is another pair of structures where the front panel has been manufactured by the same technology

Well, in principle, and all I wanted to tell you!
Of course, everyone himself chooses the paths available to him in his work, and in no case I do not impose you to take my technology as a basis. Just maybe someone will take her, or some of her moments for weapons and just tell me thanks, and I will be pleased that my works have come in handy.
With respect to you! (