Tree painting Olifa. How to paint the Olifu - the choice of paint and appliance technique. How to speed up the drying process Olifai on a wooden surface or chipboard

Anyone sooner or later faces the need to repair. Today in the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help update the interior or exterior on their own. One way - painting internal wooden surfaces - window Rams, doors, floors or even walls.

The wooden surface of the painted olifa does not always look attractive

Many are fiercely suitable for solving this issue, so they buy the first thing that happened (that is, cheap) paint and proceed to work without pre-training Surfaces, which becomes the main mistake.

If a we are talking About the axis process with roller, the result of which is visible on each fence, then the direction is chosen correctly. But the basis of any qualitatively made finishing operations is attention to the details that should be taken in advance. Otherwise you can spend not only time, strength and money, but also finally spoil consumables And the Wooden Object itself.

Therefore, it is important to take into account the nuances. For example, what to do if the wooden surface was previously covered with coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or olphoi? The latter composition is more difficult, so, first of all, you need to figure it out: what and how to paint the olive, previously applied to the surface of a wooden material?

To answer this question, you should get a little closer to get acquainted with such construction archaism, like a olive, and understand why his consumption of current days causes such hot spores, as in the professional community and in amateur circles?

Olife is a film-forming fluid consisting of precipitation of vegetable oil (linen, hemp, sunflower, tide, etc.), which is processed specialwise (overheating or oxidation). And the solvents and sequivans in the composition relative to it with oil paints, varnishes, primers and putty. In other words, the olifa as a finishing mixture can be used as any lubricant or staining raw materials.

Olife is as coloring there and the impregnation

IN soviet years oil paint On the basis of the Olifa was almost the only one affordable tool Painting surfaces. It was applied literally on everything: Paul, walls, ceiling, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the dilapidated wallpaper layer behind the layer, the old tile in the bathroom or worn linoleum with a large share of the probability can be stumbled into a pole surface. Previously, no repair did not affect it.

With the appearance of new paint mixtures on the shelves of construction stores, the Olif began to use only in puttyful purposes, in order to give the porous material structure integrity and protect against moisture. Due to the viscous composition of the Olifa, it has good focallement, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another sphere of its use is the painting of metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in office space (toilet, locker room, in production kitchen), where there are hoods. In addition, it is so ground concrete surfaces And update wood in outdoor work.

With all its advantages of the Olife, there have a number of significant deficiencies, which are well aware of those who at least once tried without prior processing to apply another paint and varnish. Among explicit minuses should be noted:

low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other colors, so even the most expensive paint after a short time "tears";
a strong smell that neither in the process nor after it will never completely disappear and the indoor, unpleasant atmosphere, is created in the closed room;
slow drying, from several hours to a pair of weeks, depending on the type and composition (faster than all - natural, and longer - synthetic);
fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of fastening solvents;
the inconvenience of application, as it is necessary to work with it only in the warm room (over 20 degrees), pre-warming the mixture;
dISTRIBUTY.

Paint cheap oliff is not recommended, it has a number of negative qualities

It must be said that all of the above negative moments for the most part are characteristic of poor-quality, cheap olife. Good coating It has only partly in part.

It would seem that it is simply impossible to re-paint the surface impregnated with the oil. But the situation is not as planning, which seems at first glance. The main thing is to competently pick up tools and paint.

When working with aprofit material, the selection of proper paint paint is of paramount importance. The one who tried to put the paint on the olifrais is invariably noticed: the freshly mounted coating as the "bubbles" dry, and the open bubbles have yellow, resin-like content and characteristic smell of olifa.

Still there are several types of coloring substances and finishing materialswho can cope with difficult oils. These include:

oil paint;
alkyd paint;
acrylate oil paint;
water-dispersion paint;
pentafthalic enamel (or differently called PF-115);
nitrocellulosic varnish (or differently called NTS-132);
liquid wallpaper based on oil;
self-adhesive paper or film.

Pentafthantive enamel with ease copes with the oil and perfectly go on top

Any of these options is perfect for staining not only wooden, but also concrete and metal surface. In no case, you can not try to paint the olive by quick-drying nitroemal or water-containing paint: our curtain impregnation on an oil basis simply "will push out" a layer of paint paint.

A few more new fixtures are bought to the standard set of tools:

roller or brush;
crash, or sprayer;
tray for mixing paint;
a bucket with soap solution;
clean rags;
brush with rigid bristles or sandpaper;
metal spatula;
ribbon machine or manual citned;
disinfection composition (antiseptic, flame retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
putty on a tree or plaster on concrete;
primer;
gloves and respirator.

For pasting, self-adhesive film is needed:

stationery knife;
powder or talc;
water with detergent solution;
dry rag;
plug or needle.

Self-adhesive film looks good, with ease it is sick on the surface in advance treated with oil

All necessary at hand. Nothing prevents work.

The importance of preliminary processing of the polested surface was already mentioned. Lower preparatory stages Maybe only a short-sighted amateur, which is not sorry for its in vain spent effort and funds for materials. And the escaped owner will prefer to do all once, but thoroughly and good.

So, in what sequence need to carry out work on processing:

Clean surfaces from mechanical pollution: traces of old paint paint or putty, rust, lime, fat spots, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), it is necessary to do it with the help of a metal spatula or brush with rigid bristles. Wash soap water. Give to dry out.
Pollute or, if possible, compatient upper layer (last - only for wood), using coarse sandpaper, manual cinches Or even better a cycular ribbon machine. Wash with water. Give to dry out.
Close all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Collect small grades emery paper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
Progress. Give to dry out. Intellite Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait for complete drying.
Apply a disinfecting composition, no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Give to dry out.

These carefully done stages will greatly facilitate paint and prevent their deformation throughout the service life.

Now that the negative properties of the olifa are maximally reduced, it is time to proceed to the treatment procedure or surface paste.

Coloring works are produced in several steps at temperatures from -30 to +40 degrees and relative humidity no higher than 80%:

To start a strip layer painted with a brush inaccessible places, Welded seams, end edges.
The coloring solution is applied by one layer by vertical movements, directions from left to right or from far to the door of the wall with a roller, brush or a sprayer (at a distance of 20-30 cm). The obscuration of the object into the paint mass of the paint is also allowed. The time of complete drying will be survived.
Metal surfaces are scored in 2-3 reservoirs and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbetic and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wooden - 1-2.
Rinse the dried surface hot water (without adding soda or detergent) In order to get rid of divorces. Repeat to wipe before operating.
Get rid of the stable smell of certain types of paints (put, oil) can be, putting near the scratched place or indoors 2-3 cans with salted water or grated garlic on a plate.

It is very important to wait for a complete drying of each previous paint layer before applying the subsequent. The time of the final drying of the finished coating at a temperature of +20 degrees is at least a day.

Check, dried the surface or not, perhaps traditional method - putting a finger to the place of painting. If necessary, you should wait and longer time.

Transform a poles surface - the task is not the easiest. But with a skillful approach and competent selection required tools And the finishing materials in just a few days can be revived the interior and give it a new, more attractive view that will rejoice in his diligent owner for a long time.

If someone covers with a varnish icon without prior impregnation of Olife - well, it is already quite strange, there is nothing to talk about, in my opinion. As far as I know, the egg temperativity requires a mandatory impregnation of the oliff, otherwise the pigments are whiten, they lose color and the colorful layer is quite quickly destroyed.

Recipe Olifes: Liquid Syccalt (cobalt or lead) is added to a slightly heated fresh linseed oil In a ratio of 1 to 10 (according to both). Olymption time is about 4 hours.

Linseed oil can have only two main types (well, plus the nuances) is an oxidized and polymerized. Oxidized linselane oil regardless of whether it is raw, boiled, with or without sequivats, it is started to dry from the upper surface layer, polymerized linseed oil is prepared at increased pressureAnd it begins to seek simultaneously in the entire layer, but more susceptible to yellowing and darkening. That's all the fundamental difference, so that the olive is raw or boiled ones the same thing, so if when cooking except the sequiva add some brooms in it (I would like to know what else and how many) it turns out a good oil varnish.

In terms of olifering time, this largely determines the basis - board and left-hand, I have a lime dry boards, many years of exposure, the Olifu is pulling like a sponge, I have at least 12 hours, and then after this Olife may dry, so it is necessary Double.

For our business is better oxided oilSince it is very important that the colorful layer and levkas and the board are as thoroughly soaked as possible by Olifa, as it is the flaxseed oil that deeply penetrates the Tepe, fastens and protects the icon from destruction. Although, if it is constantly in the cheese and cold room - the Olife itself begins to mold and darkens very quickly.

Since the oil varnishes in dark raw rooms are darker, and alcohol turbines, alternatively, you can use "liquid wax" The world famous Ial. Firm Oikos, which produces various paints and materials for construction and finishing works. "Liquid wax" is used to cover the plaster type. The stone is well held on the walls subject to condensate, water vehicles, in appearance similar to milk, is completely transparent after drying.

Appearance of spots after oliple due to the uneven content of the binder in the colorful layer, therefore, the Levkas is shifted there where this binder is not enough, especially it looks bad on the face. To reduce this undesirable effect, you must try to write as the same Tempera texture. On a personal letter, greasy yellow spots are unacceptable - it is necessary to break them immediately and delete. If, after applying a layer of plaguing and drying on the lumen on the surface, matte propellas perform - it means you need to add binding and water to the Tepe. Approaching the end of the smelting, it is necessary to estimate the thuplings to the binder and when it is lacking, it is necessary to dissolve a binder with water and gently "supplied" to them with a colorful layer for one or more techniques depending on circumstances.

If you write a dense colorful layer, the risk of spots at iphoma is minimal. If the task is to write something with a thin layer, taking into account the lumen of Levkas, it is better to make a temperature with a permissible disadvantage of the binder and after the end of all work on the site to additionally supplement the colorful layer of binding.

Well, for those who do not yet know - there is such a control test for the degree of adequacy of a binder in a colorful layer: According to the dried surface of the Tempers, they spend the wet tassel if the trail is darker than the collera - it means there is little binder, it is necessary to add, if on the contrary, the track is lighter - it means everything is fine, you do not need to add anything.

Is it possible to apply olive on the varnish, how to choose the appropriate materials for surface treatment? For creating protective coating are used different types varnishes and oils. When they are used, the properties and features of the materials are taken into account, the possibility of their combination.

Lucky and olif relate to the group of film-forming substances used in the form of solutions. The final type of the treated surface depends on their type and composition. The coating of the lacquer allows you to protect or emphasize the structure of the stainable surface.

After drying the coating, the transparent durable film form, varnishes are often used to apply the main layer.

The range of varnishes is presented by a variety of types, methods of application and properties. Among them are distinguished:

bitumen varnishes, which are made from bitumen of special brands, for drying form a black film, have resistance to reagents;
oil compositions are solutions of vegetable oils with synthetic or natural resins, during drying, give a transparent yellow film;
alcohol possess a high drying rate, produced by dissolving natural resins in alcohol;
alkid solutions - materials based on synthetic resins, differed by water resistance;
alkid-carbamide varnishes are used with hardeners, with drying form a solid coating;
nitrato cellulose materials are used to apply a protective coating on wood products;
polyester;
polyurethane coating materials;
epoxy and oil hydrogen varnishes.

Olife for wood is different in composition, which causes the peculiarities of its use for impregnation and primer. Natural olifa is made from vegetable components of flax, hemp, sunflower using special additives.

Application as a primer material helps to emphasize the beauty of the texture, wood exhibits its drawing. It adds solvents that increase viscosity, and to improve the quality of oil oxidize and warm at high temperatures. Their composition is only 5% of the special sequivat additive accelerating drying. Oxol consists of an oil component, solvent and a sequence. Due to this compound, it will dry faster, and its cost is low.

Composite synthetic material Made from by-products of the oil refinery. This type of product is not universal due to poor quality. It is not recommended for processing indoor rooms.

Most. high quality Alkyd resin compositions have. They are used for outdoor and interior decoration.

Compatibility of coatings

As a solid finishing mixture can be used as a component for the manufacture of putty, for painting metal surfaces. Disadvantages of this mixture:

low adhesion relative to other means to cover the surface;
sharp steady smell;
special conditions for work (the presence of high temperature indoors);
dISTRIBUTY;
long drying time.

In the case of repair work It should be borne in mind that if you put a varnish on the fresh layer of the ipalone surface, then the bubbles will form as drying.

If you treat the tree with oil, you can create not only the protective layer, but also the primer under the main coating with toning or transparent varnish.

The agent is used as a primer and impregnation of the material before painting.

Olife is an alternative to the other used for the impregnation of wood. It is worth remembering that not all kinds can be used for work in residential premises. Guaranteed protection against exposure to external factors is achieved when it combines with other means.

With Olifa, some types of paints and nitrocellulose varnish of the NC-132 brand are not conflicted. When trying to apply a coating from other materials on Olif, an repulsion will occur.

using tools, clean the surface from pollution;
rinse with soap solution;
sandpaper to carry out grinding;
seal cracks and polish the surface;
apply a primer.

You can apply a layer of varnish on the olive after final drying. In order for the coating to be stable, you need to use glyphthalic, pentaphlete, oil varnishes. Used brush, sprayer or roller. The choice of materials depends on the type of work performed. To cover the surface with a protective layer, you need to select the composition for applying.

Careful study of compatibility means will help choose optimal option Painting. In the case of the use of several types of materials, it is better to choose them from one manufacturer. This will avoid conflict when working with them.

For the floor is well suited parquet lacquerwhich has the desired wood fluidity, and when drying it, forms a transparent film. You can dilute it with White-spirited for uniform distribution over the surface. Olife consists of components of plant and synthetic fats. Applying it to patent surface will not give results.

It is no secret that a substantial minus appears in the painted varnish or paint - they become cold and lifeless. If you intend to keep the beauty of texture, heat and energy, we recommend that you pay attention to such a material for processing a tree, like a olif.

Food for wood - Olife is different

Olifes can act as an independent protective and decorative coating Woods, or as a primer layer in front of painting or spatlement, as a component for the preparation of paint compositions.

Existing formulations can be divided into the following groups:

Treatment of wood natural oil - features of application

Most often, the market occurs linen, hemp and sunflower oil. Natural linen olifa has a bright transparent color. It is used for the priming of wooden, plastered and metal surfaces, as well as in the process of making marsomas for wood, paste and for breeding light paints. The use of natural compositions is allowed indoors. How much does the natural olive oil dry? At a temperature of at least 20 ° C - about 24 hours.

Hemp Olife has a pronounced dark color. The scope of the composition of the composition is all the same as the linen. That's just this liquid is used to breed dark dense darling paints. Compared to previous representatives of the group, sunflower impregnation dries slower - a day later, a low liquid will still be felt on the surface. Its feature is high elasticity, however, on hardness, strength and water resistance, it loses hemp and linen oil.

Natural compositions are perfectly suitable for processing wooden surfaces of various tools. The hunters love to soak the rifle beds - after that, the product is very soft and heat in the hand, it's nice to touch him. However, for impregnation outdoor coatings This group does not like, since the film that natural compositions create is not highly durable.

Semi-natural, combined, synthetic - oil applications

Separate oils, mostly have light brown. Film obtained by wooden surface It is characterized by hardness and good shine, as well as a fairly high water resistance. Basically, semi-natural compositions are used in combination with others. paint and varnish materials or as a soil. Like natural olifes, semi-natural do not have sufficient strength to treat flooring.

In the combined compositions, manufacturers add modifiers that improve their quality necessary for the production and breeding of densely paints. Also, combined oils are used to progress wooden surfaces in front of plaster or color.

Do not forget that the liquid dries at least a day - until complete drying, apply a layer of paint or plaster is not recommended.

Synthetic compositions are used not so much for impregnation, how much as the basis for breeding dark oil paints for painting work Outside, as well as for priming metal, concrete and plastered surfaces. Use synthetic olive and for the preparation of all sorts of maps and pastes.

What is oluminovka - soak a tree

It should be noted that the Olife is in demand among lovers natural materialswhich are absolutely safe to people's health. However, by the rest of the parameters (strength, the penetration depth, durability), natural oil-based compositions have long losing impregnation based on alkyd resins with fungicides and other modifiers.

Natural impregnation is most often used in caring for wooden products, Which periodically, anyway, need cleaning, grinding. For example, it may be joinery tools. Also, oils from natural oils are well shown internal works - Processed wooden surfaces look very well, continue to breathe and flavory air. But for outdoor work it is better to use more modern, resistant to temperature differences, moisture and pests.

Anyone sooner or later faces the need to repair. Today in the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help update the interior or exterior on their own. One of the ways is to paint the inner wooden surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.

The wooden surface of the painted olifa does not always look attractive

Many are fiercely suitable for solving this issue, therefore they buy the first one (that is, cheap) paint and proceed to work without preliminary surface preparation, which becomes the main mistake.

If we are talking about an axes with a roller, the result of which is visible on each fence, then the direction is chosen correctly. But the basis of any qualitatively made finishing operations is attention to the details that should be taken in advance. Otherwise you can spend not only time, strength and agents, but also finally spoil the consumables and the wooden object itself.

Features and disadvantages of olifa

Olife is as coloring there and the impregnation

In the Soviet years, oil paint based on the Olifa was almost the only means of painting surfaces. It was applied literally on everything: Paul, walls, ceiling, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the dilapidated wallpaper layer behind the layer, the old tile in the bathroom or worn linoleum with a large share of the probability can be stumbled into a pole surface. Previously, no repair did not affect it.

With the appearance of new paint mixtures on the shelves of construction stores, the Olif began to use only in puttyful purposes, in order to give the porous material structure integrity and protect against moisture. Due to the viscous composition of the Olifa, it has good focallement, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another sphere of its use is the painting of metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in office space (toilet, locker room, in production kitchen), where there are hoods. In addition, it is stuffed with concrete surfaces and update the wood in outdoor work.

low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other colors, so even the most expensive paint after a short time "tears";
a strong smell that neither in the process nor after it will never completely disappear and the indoor, unpleasant atmosphere, is created in the closed room;
slow drying, from several hours to a pair of weeks, depending on the type and composition (faster than all - natural, and longer - synthetic);
fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of fastening solvents;
the inconvenience of application, as it is necessary to work with it only in the warm room (over 20 degrees), pre-warming the mixture;
dISTRIBUTY.

Paint cheap oliff is not recommended, it has a number of negative qualities

It must be said that all of the above negative moments for the most part are characteristic of poor-quality, cheap olife. Good coating has only partly.

Selection of paint and tools

Nevertheless, there are several types of coloring substances and finishing materials that can cope with difficult oils. These include:

oil paint;
alkyd paint;
acrylate oil paint;
pentafthalic enamel (or differently called PF-115);
nitrocellulosic varnish (or differently called NTS-132);
liquid wallpaper based on oil;
self-adhesive paper or film.

Pentafthantive enamel with ease copes with the oil and perfectly go on top

Any of these options is perfect for staining not only wooden, but also a concrete and metal surface. It is impossible to try to paint the olive by quick-drying nitroemal or water-containing paint: our cunning impregnation on an oil basis simply "will push" a layer of paint paint. For use of water-dispersion and water-emulsion paint The surface you need to wash well and clean, removing the film from the oil. In this case, 2-3 layers water paint. Take the surface, but, in contrast to other formulations, do not impregnate it.

A few more new fixtures are bought to the standard set of tools:

roller or brush;
crash, or sprayer;
tray for mixing paint;
a bucket with soap solution;
clean rags;
brush with rigid bristles or sandpaper;
metal spatula;
ribbon machine or manual citned;
disinfection composition (antiseptic, flame retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
putty on a tree or plaster on concrete;
primer;
gloves and respirator.

For pasting, self-adhesive film is needed:

stationery knife;
powder or talc;
water with detergent solution;
dry rag;
plug or needle.

Self-adhesive film looks good, with ease it is sick on the surface in advance treated with oil

All necessary at hand. Nothing prevents work.

Surface preparation

The importance of preliminary processing of the polested surface was already mentioned. Olive preparatory stages can only a short-sighted amateur that does not feel sorry for its in vain forces of effort and funds for materials. And the escaped owner will prefer to do all once, but thoroughly and good.

So, in what sequence need to carry out work on processing:

Clean surfaces from mechanical pollution: traces of old paint paint or putty, rust, lime, fat spots, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), it is necessary to do it with the help of a metal spatula or brush with rigid bristles. Wash soap water. Give to dry out.
Coloring or, if possible, sprouting the top layer (last - only for the tree), using coarse-grained sandpaper, manual cuccant or even better a cycular belt machine. Wash with water. Give to dry out.
Close all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Collect fine-grained emery paper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
Progress. Give to dry out. Intellite Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait for complete drying.
Apply a disinfecting composition, no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Give to dry out.

These carefully done stages will greatly facilitate paint and prevent their deformation throughout the service life.

After surface treatment, the process of painting can only bring a good mood.

Now that the negative properties of the olifa are maximally reduced, it is time to proceed to the treatment procedure or surface paste.

Coloring works are produced in several steps at temperatures from -30 to +40 degrees and relative humidity no higher than 80%:

For the start of the strip layer, the brush is painted hard-to-reach places, welds, end edges.
The coloring solution is applied by one layer by vertical movements, directions from left to right or from far to the door of the wall with a roller, brush or a sprayer (at a distance of 20-30 cm). The obscuration of the object into the paint mass of the paint is also allowed. The time of complete drying will be survived.
Metal surfaces are scored in 2-3 reservoirs and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbetic and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wooden - 1-2.
Rinse the dried surface of hot water (without adding soda or detergent) in order to delivered divorces. Repeat to wipe before operating.
(Put, oil) can be, putting near the scratched place or indoors 2-3 cans with salted water or grated garlic on a plate.

Check, dried surface or not, perhaps the traditional method - putting a finger to the place of painting. If necessary, you should wait and longer time.

Transform a poles surface - the task is not the easiest. But with a skillful approach and competent selection of the necessary tools and finishing materials, it is possible to revive the interior within a few days and give it a new, more attractive view that will rejoice in his diligent owner for a long time.