Why does dracaena drop its leaves. Dracaena - diseases and treatment with a photo. When is a transplant needed?

Dracaena - spectacular evergreen. It can be found both in apartments and in office space. It is valued by amateur flower growers and designers for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness. However, despite its undemanding and non-capriciousness, dracaena suffers from unintentional care errors, attacks by pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and harmful insects. This negatively affects its presentability. Therefore, you need to know what symptoms are characteristic of a particular disease or pest, and how to deal with them.

How to create a dracaena optimal microclimate

Dracaena is quite unpretentious, and there is nothing difficult in creating an optimal microclimate for it at home. But it is still worth listening to the requirements of the plant, trying to create an environment for it that is as close as possible to the one to which it is accustomed in nature.

Dracaena is a popular (not least because of its unpretentiousness) houseplant

Table: suitable conditions for growing dracaena

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Not far (1–2 m) from a window facing east or west. It is not recommended to put close to the south window in order to avoid sunburn. In the summer, if dimensions allow, you can take the container to fresh air. Dracaena loves him, but does not tolerate cold drafts.
Lighting	Diffused light or light partial shade. Species with variegated leaves are more demanding on lighting. All dracaena can exist in completely artificial light, if daylight hours last at least 12 hours.
Temperature	In spring and summer - moderately warm (20–25ºС). Dracaena does not tolerate heat well. In winter, it is slightly lowered - up to 17–19ºС. The lower limit is 15ºС. Exceptions are fragrant dracaena, Hooker, Dragon (tolerate a short-term decrease to 10ºС). All species react negatively to sudden changes in temperature. A difference of 10ºС or more can lead to the death of the plant.
Air humidity	It normally exists at a standard air humidity of 40–50% (dracaena Dragon and Godsphere are especially undemanding to it), but responds with gratitude to any measures to increase it. The only thing that should not be done is to pour water into the pan. In winter, running radiators dry the air a lot, so it is recommended to spray the surrounding air with warm water every 2-3 days. In the summer, in the heat, you can spray the plant itself, but so that the drops do not fall into the sockets, or arrange a shower by covering the soil with polyethylene. At least once a week, be sure to wipe the leaves with a wet cloth or sponge.

Pick up a dracaena place near the window; it is very difficult to put it on the windowsill because of its size

In addition to the optimal microclimate, timely fertilization and the correct watering regimen have a great influence on how the plant feels.

In summer, you need to let the soil in the pot dry out about 4–5 cm deep. This can be determined by sticking a wooden stick into the pot. One procedure every 2-3 days is enough. In winter, the intervals are increased to 5–7 days. In wet soil with a cool content, rot quickly develops. Broad-leaved dracaena need to be watered more often - they have more evaporation area. A clear signal is drooping leaves that have lost their tone. And do not forget to loosen the soil after each procedure.

The material on the conditions of keeping Sander's dracaena will also be useful:

As for dressings, there are special fertilizers for dracaena. The tree is watered with a nutrient solution every 20–30 days, moistening the soil well in about half an hour. If you use a universal remedy for indoor plants, pay attention to the composition. An excess of phosphorus and nitrogen can lead to a deterioration in the appearance of the leaves. And dracaena categorically does not tolerate fluoride.

Video: maintenance and care of a flower at home

Diseases and pests typical for dracaena and their prevention

Dracaena, which is properly cared for, is quite resistant to damage by various pathogenic fungi, viruses and bacteria. Most often, these types of problems with the plant are the result of unintentional errors of the owner. An invasion of pests, even a massive one, is also unlikely to lead to its death, but it will cause a lot of trouble for the grower.

The most dangerous for her are all kinds of rot, as well as bacterial and viral diseases, which cannot be cured by modern means. In this case, the plant must be destroyed as soon as possible, no matter how sorry it is. Otherwise, you can lose the entire collection.

Most often, in order to avoid problems with dracaena, competent prevention is enough:

• quarantine for newly acquired plants for 25–30 days;
• regular inspections of the entire collection (ideally through a magnifying glass) and the immediate isolation of "suspicious" specimens;
• free, without crowding, placement of pots;
• frequent ventilation of the room and maintaining high humidity;
• placing indoor and cut flowers as far apart as possible, especially if they are roses or chrysanthemums;
• mandatory sterilization before using pots, substrate, any tools;
• processing of all "wounds" inflicted on the dracaena;
• implementation of recommendations for caring for the plant, especially those related to watering and fertilizing;
• maintaining cleanliness - regularly dusting the leaves and carrying out other permitted water procedures.

Problem Diagnosis

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. The deterioration of his appearance is a clear sign of health problems. It is important to correctly interpret these signs and know what to do in each case.

Table: symptoms and possible causes

External manifestations	Possible reasons
	Mistakes in care	Disease	Pest
Yellowing and wilting leaves.	Their life span is about two years. Otherwise - over watering
Pale, shrinking leaves, deformed, thinning trunks.	Light deficiency.
Falling green leaves.	Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curling and falling leaves.	Too little watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.	Low indoor humidity.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.	Excess fluoride in the soil - the use of unsuitable fertilizers or watering with hard, unsettled water.
Losing color saturation leaves and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.	Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Drops of water focus rays no worse than lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on leaves, dry edges.	Low room temperature or its sudden changes.
Discolored "watery" border on the edge of the sheet.	Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent top dressing).
Reddening leaves.	Unsuitable too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Small white crystals on the underside of the sheet.	A natural phenomenon provoked by a single abundant watering in combination with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.	Unsuitable soil, lack of fertilizing for a long time or too cramped pot.
Flour-like coating on leaves.
Brownish soft to the touch trunk.
Brownish spots, gradually tightened with a gray "pile".
Dark "watery" spots, softening tissues.
Yellowing leaves covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually turning brown spots on the leaves.
Brown spots with a bright green border on the leaves.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Blurry brown spots with a yellow-green border.
Dark "watery" tips of the leaves, "sores" on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes, casting bronze.
Yellow spots on the leaves, petioles braided with cobwebs.
Silvery "scratches" and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown "plaques" on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of a whitish substance in the axils of the leaves and in the ground.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of the leaves and sticky drops on them.

What mistakes in care lead to: examples in the photo

Dracaena, in which the tips of the leaves dry, suffer from too low air humidity or sunburn. Dracaena can drop leaves for several reasons, including natural ones. This is how dracaena most often looks before shedding leaves. leave the plant in direct sunlight. Browning, drying dracaena leaves mean prolonged neglect of the plant's need for moisture. Yellowing of dracaena leaves reacts to overflow

Diseases and how to deal with them

Of the fungal diseases for dracaena, all types of rot are most dangerous, which develop very quickly with improper watering. If at the same time the temperature in the room is still below normal, this is almost inevitable.

Table: diseases typical for dracaena

Disease	Symptoms	Treatment and prevention
Small rounded pale brown spots on the trunk and leaves with a whitish dot in the middle, quickly changing color to black-gray. Gradually, the tissues in these places die off.	Wipe the leaves and trunk with an infusion of wood ash or colloidal sulfur. Treat the plant and soil with a solution of Topaz, Oksikhoma, Kuprozan. Repeat three times with an interval of 10 days. During this time, water not with ordinary water, but with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. For prevention, treat the flower and soil once a month with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol, Topsin-M.
Elongated beige spots with a reddish border on the leaves. Gradually they are covered with a layer of greenish-gray plaque.
Phyllosticosis (brown spot)	Blurry patches of irregular shape of beige-brown color with a lime border. Then small black “grains” form in the middle. At risk are adults and especially old dracaena.	Cut off all infected tissue. Remove severely affected leaves entirely. Sprinkle the sections with activated charcoal powder, chalk, cinnamon, treat with iodine or brilliant green. Spray the flower with a solution of Skor, Topaz, HOM. Repeat three times (treatment once a week). During this time, add any biostimulator (Zircon, Epin, potassium humate) to the water for irrigation (2-3 ml per liter).
Dark brown “watery” leaf tips, brown spots on them, small round “ulcers” on the stem and petioles. Healthy tissues are separated from infected ones by a wide yellow "oily" stripe.	There are no effective treatments. Provokes the development of bacteriosis constant dampness in a pot, heat in the room, alkaline soil unsuitable for dracaena.
Spotted wilt (bronze)	The leaves are almost completely covered with irregularly shaped stripes and spots. In artificial light they are brownish, in the sun they cast bronze. The growth of dracaena almost stops, new leaves are small and deformed.	With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the virus. Plants that do not feed are more likely to suffer from spotted wilt. For dracaena, a deficiency of potassium and phosphorus is harmful.
Yellowness spreading along the leaves from the bottom up. There is a "watery" border along the edge. The top of the trunk wilts. He himself becomes thinner, changes color to brick. In especially severe cases, the dracaena is covered with "weeping" brown spots.	Wash the flower under a warm shower, remove the affected leaves. Process the cuts. Spray the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazol, Vectra, Benomyl. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 3-5 days. If there is no effect, use "heavy artillery" - Quadris, Bravo, Raek. For prevention, add Fitosporin-M to the water for irrigation. Add Humistar, Trikhovit to the soil when transplanting.
Root (black) rot	Brown roots and bases of the trunk, mold on the soil and an unpleasant putrefactive smell coming from it.	Remove the dracaena from the pot, thoroughly rinse the substrate from the roots. Trim anything dark and slimy to the touch, grabbing 3–5 cm of tissue that appears healthy. Soak the roots for 20-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 0.5% Bordeaux mixture. Sprinkle the sections with sifted wood ash, colloidal sulfur. Transplant the plant into a sterilized pot using new soil. For 3–4 months, water with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Previkura.
Bacterial (wet) rot	Dark "watery" spots on the leaves and trunk. The tissues in these places soften to a semi-liquid state.
Pale brown spots on the leaves, gradually covered with a layer of grayish "pile" with multiple small black blotches.	Cut off any infected leaves. Treat the wounds. Wipe them and pour the soil with a solution of Abiga-Peak, Kuprozan, Topaz. Water the dracaena for a month weak solution potassium permanganate (0.25 g/l).
Brown rot (rhizoctoniosis)	Dracaena stops growing. The leaves turn yellow, discolor, then become covered with black-brown spots.	Stop watering immediately. After 3–5 days, soak the roots for 10–12 hours in a solution of Bactofit, Agata-25K, Maxim. Let them dry well. If there is no effect, change the pot and soil.
Small brownish spots with a bright green border on the leaves.	Cut off any affected leaves. Provide the plant with optimal or close to them conditions. Follow the recommendations for caring for dracaena.
Leaves, as if powdered with flour. Gradually, this plaque thickens and turns brown.	Remove plaque from the leaves by washing them with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Powder them with crushed activated carbon or colloidal sulfur. Water the dracaena twice with an interval of 10-12 days with a solution of any fungicide.

Photo gallery: what a plant affected by pathogenic fungi and bacteria looks like

It seems that powdery mildew- this is a harmless coating that is easy to wipe off, but this is by no means the case Brown spotting is a rather rare disease Dracaena affected by brown rot practically stops growing Gray rot is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure Fabrics affected by bacterial rot turn into a semi-liquid mass Root rot it is very difficult to recognize in time, and after all, the disease can be treated only in the early stages of development Plants in the garden often suffer from fusarium, but indoor plants are not protected from infection. The plant affected by spotted wilt can only be thrown away. The greenish-gray coating that appears as heterosporosis develops contains spores of the fungus. Tissues affected by alternariosis gradually die off, holes remain on the leaves.

Video: treatment of dracaena diseases

Pests attacking dracaena

Most pests, even having bred in abundance, will not kill the dracaena. But that doesn't mean they shouldn't be fought. The plant did not "bring" any exotic insects from its historical homeland. You will have to deal with the most common insects and mites that feed on its juice.

Table: common pests

Pest	Symptoms	Control and prevention measures
Rounded "plaques" of different shades of brown on the wrong side of the sheet. Gradually they "swell", the tissues around them acquire an unnatural yellow-red color. In severe cases, the soil turns black.	For visible pests, lubricate the shells with engine oil, acetic acid, and pure alcohol. After a few hours, the shields can be removed. Wipe the leaves with soapy foam, rinse with water. Treat the plant with Actara, Permethrin, Fufanon. If necessary, repeat 1-2 more times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Thin almost transparent threads braiding petioles. On the underside of the leaf there are brown dots and blurry pale or yellowish spots around them.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol, vodka or any alcohol tincture. After 15-20 minutes - with a damp sponge. Spray abundantly and water the dracaena, for 2-3 days, if possible, seal it tightly with polyethylene. To enhance the effect, place a container with chopped onion, garlic, turpentine in the same place. If there is no result, use acaricides - Neoron, Agravertin, Sunmite, Apollo. It will take at least 3-4 treatments with different drugs. The interval between them is 5–12 days. For prevention, spray the plant weekly with a decoction of cyclamen tubers. Or irradiate the leaves with a quartz lamp for 2-3 minutes on both sides.
Discolored leaves, small black dots and silver-beige thin “scratches” are visible on the inside.	Apply soap suds or whipped flea shampoo to the leaves, leave under plastic for 2-3 days. Or spray it with an oil emulsion (35-40 ml of any vegetable oil per liter of water). Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 5-7 days. If there is no result, use Fitoverm, Spintor, Actellik (2-3 times at weekly intervals).
Lumps of a dirty cotton-like coating in the axils of the leaves and at the base of the trunk. Leaves quickly turn yellow and dry.	Spray the dracaena with a soap-alcohol solution. Wash the leaves after 2-3 hours clean water. At the same time, remove visible "lumps" with a wooden stick. Treat the flower and soil with an infusion of tobacco chips, dry mustard, red pepper. Or spot any Neem tree oil preparation on the leaves. If there is no effect, use Iskra-Bio, Calypso, Mospilan (2-3 times with an interval of 5-10 days).
Large colonies of small insects sticking to the underside of the leaves (especially young ones) and the top of the trunk. Then a sticky transparent coating appears.	Wipe insects off with soapy water. Cut off any affected leaves. Arrange a dracaena of souls. Spray the plant 3-4 times a day with infusions of orange peels, onion peels, pine needles, and any sharp-smelling herbs. If there is no effect, treat the dracaena with Biotlin, Admiral, Confidor-Maxi. Repeat every 5-7 days until the aphids are completely gone.

Photo gallery: what pests that affect dracaena look like

Aphids are distinguished by their rare “omnivorousness”, dracaena is also included in its circle of interests. If you do not pay attention to the mealybug, very soon the plant will be covered with a continuous carpet of moving “fluff” Small black dots on the leaves are nothing but the thrips themselves Spider mite is not an insect , therefore, to combat it, not general insecticides are used, but special preparations - acaricides. reliable protection from most folk remedies

Video: common indoor plant pests and their control

Plant resuscitation

Most often, the fact that dracaena requires urgent resuscitation is to blame for its owner. She reacts most painfully to improper watering- "drought" or "swamp" in a pot.

In the first case, cut off all dry leaves to living tissues, without touching the growing point at the top of the dracaena. Spray every 2-3 days with a solution of any biostimulant. Rearrange as close to the southwest or southeast window as possible. Water according to instructions. If the roots are not affected, after 2-3 months the dracaena will give new leaves. When the growth point has also dried up, you will have to cut it off as well, and hope that the lateral buds will “wake up”. But there's not much chance of that.

In a waterlogged substrate, the development of rot is almost inevitable. Dracaena needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, regardless of the time of year. But this procedure does not guarantee success, it will be effective only at an early stage of the development of the disease. In the process, be sure to cut off all the roots affected by the fungus, do not forget to sterilize the new pot and soil. At first, be very careful with watering, but spray the dracaena daily. Choose a container according to the size of the root system (plus a maximum of 2–3 cm).

What to do with a broken dracaena palm

Dracaena is a fairly massive plant, so the aerial part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, often the “fractures” she received are the result of the violent activity of children and pets. In this case, do not be upset. If everything is done correctly, instead of one plant, you will get two.

A broken dracaena is not a reason to arrange a tragedy

The easiest way is when the barrel is broken, but not completely broken. They put “tires” on it, as if on an arm or leg, and fix the skin so that it covers the “wound” as much as possible. Top can be wrapped with strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber.

Don't forget to seal your cut.

Otherwise, in the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

1. Saw off the trunk straight just below the damage. It is advisable to do this along the "scars" left over from fallen leaves.
2. Disinfect the cut with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
3. Fill with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden pitch. If nothing is available, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
4. Remove the plant in partial shade. Water moderately. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

Material on the methods of propagation of dracaena will also be useful:

The lateral buds on the dracaena “wake up” for quite some time, be patient

Broken top:

1. Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without “fraying” and notching. Let dry for 2-3 hours.
2. Trim off disturbing leaves. Put in a container with a biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. Can be used succinic acid and activated charcoal (one tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in wet perlite, vermiculite, sand. The cut will need to be sprinkled with any powdered root stimulator.
3. Change the water every 3-4 days, moisten the substrate regularly. Provide bottom heating, at least 12 hours of daylight and a temperature of approximately 25ºС.
4. Be patient. The rooting process can take 3-4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, transplant the plant into soil suitable for adult dracaena.

Most often, the broken top of the dracaena is rooted in water.

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any houseplant, is not immune from the attacks of diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly cared for rarely suffers. Nevertheless, individual care errors, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can provoke a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die. Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what causes certain symptoms and know what to do to cope with the problem.

Many dracaena owners face various problems in caring for such a plant. The most common is that dracaena leaves fall. Let's find out what are the reasons for this phenomenon, and what to do to save the flower.

As a rule, such a problem occurs due to mistakes that owners make during the care process. Leaves may fall off with insufficient or excessive watering. There are also natural reasons why dracaena leaves fall.

These primarily include the age of the plant. Another factor is the unsuitable microclimate. Despite the fact that this flower is considered hardy and resistant to various environmental conditions, there are certain conditions for its maintenance.

How to save a plant

In a healthy plant, the bark is quite dense. But as practice shows, dracaena may experience deterioration in the condition of the bark and leaves. If the reason is age, then nothing can be done about it. Each leaf lives for a certain time. Subsequently, it turns yellow and falls off. This is a natural process, and you will not be able to resist it in any way.

However, it is not uncommon for a flower to lose all its leaves at a young age. The bark also deteriorates. The trunk becomes weak. Why does this happen in dracaena? Because you're not taking good care of her. You are probably watering it incorrectly. It is not difficult to solve this problem: it is enough to ensure timely watering, and you will be able to maintain an attractive appearance of such a plant culture.

Often the owners of such plants are afraid of not adding enough water and irrigate in more than the flower needs. Even considering the fact that dracaena loves moisture, this cannot be done. As a rule, with an excess of liquid, dracaena sheds leaves for quite short term. In this case, the bark begins to rot, as do the roots. What to do in such a situation? It is enough just to reduce the amount of water for irrigation and do it less often.

It is important to take a number of immediate steps. Remove the flower from the pot without damaging the roots and bark (that is, with the soil). Remove part of the earth to inspect the condition of the root system.

Remove those roots that are rotten. Let the rest dry, removing the remnants of the soil. Subsequently, do not abuse watering. The plant will stop shedding leaves as soon as the soil moisture level returns to normal and the roots dry out.

If the dracaena has a soft trunk and leaves fall, this is a likely sign of improper watering.

To do this, dry the roots and plant the flower again in less moist soil. The stem also withers from excess liquid. As a result, leaves begin to fall, which can no longer be held on a weakened "skeleton". It is important to ensure that there is no water left in the axils of the leaves after transplanting and watering. Otherwise, they will rot and fall off again.

It is extremely important to maintain the right microclimate. So you will be able to save even the "bald" flower. For this purpose, set the room temperature above +15 °C. If the flower is long time being in a cold room, this will lead not only to the fall of foliage, but also to the death of the entire plant. In addition to optimal temperature conditions, it is required to regularly feed such a crop. This flower needs nutrients ah, such as potassium nitrogen, ammonium sulphide, potassium phosphate.

Recently, my dracaena started dropping leaves and I, frankly, panicked. This has never been observed for her, although she is not a particularly long partner with me, so I decided that I needed to deal with this problem on my own, and then help others who encounter similar difficulties.

It turned out that there are many reasons why dracaena leaves fall, and all of them can be of a purely different nature. For example, one of the possible options why the dracaena began to show itself so unhealthy may be moisture. Humid air, unfavorable amount of watering, placement of other plants, moss nearby - all this can affect the life of a dracaena.

A decrease in air humidity also affects this plant. As it turned out, dracaena leaves often fall if it is located in close proximity to batteries or other devices that dry the air. The acceptable percentage of moisture in the room where the dracaena lives is 20%, so you don’t need to moisten the air a little if the dracaena is more, yellower and lowers, or vice versa, reduce the amount of moisture if the dracaena turns black, marks and also lowers leaves.

drafts plus humidity - another enemy of dracaena. It cannot be placed in intermediate rooms, in the corridors, near the windows, where there is a constant draft. Firstly, drafts immediately make the dracaena hurt, no matter what condition it is in, just like it happens to a person when he catches a cold. They just need to be eliminated or the dracaena moved to another place to neutralize this problem.

Using the wrong fertilizers, their insufficient, excessive amount is the next point, which affects the fact that the dracaena dropped its leaves. What to do in this case? Understand the amount of fertilizer you applied. An insufficient amount requires another, control, feeding, excessive - it will affect a little worse and there will be more work. You will have to replant the plant, changing the soil mixture, using a completely new pot at the same time, then from the base stage you will have to restore the health of the dracaena, maybe even update it a little with pruning so that it starts to recover more intensively and copes with a smaller crown volume than it would have had if it were in previous state.

Using the wrong fertilizers is much worse for dracaena than you might think - it's like drinking an alcoholic drink instead of life-giving water when you are strictly forbidden. Instantaneous effect: the dracaena begins to fade before our eyes, the leaves fall, the earth in the pot begins to react in a completely strange way, and the former, cheerful and beautiful dracaena dies in your hands. In this case, my advice is always the same, especially for beginner gardeners: always learn the rules for caring for dracaena. Pay attention to the fertilizer item, check which soil composition you purchased or made yourself at home - what is missing in it, and what elements are too much, and only then choose the appropriate fertilizer, but in no case take it at random or to your reasoning - in the case of feeding dracaena, there can be no improvisation.

Dracaena lowers the leaves, all sleeked up. How to raise them?

If everything is in order with the roots, then arrange a dracaena hot shower! So that the hand would endure the temperature of the water, the water should not be warm, nor boiling water, but hot enough. Cover the ground, wrap the pot in a bag so as not to flood and bathe the foliage for a minute, maybe a little less.

perhaps she is standing in a too sunny place, maybe she does not have enough water (then you need to sprinkle on the leaves). and the most likely option is it's time to transplant it into a larger pot ..

For mine, this happens when I forget to water or the sun hits the leaves.

And still need to be fed with liquid fertilizer for palm trees.

You need to water on time and fertilize at least once every 2 weeks.

It can stand in the sun, I also had this and the leaves turned yellow, put it in the shade and, behold, it feels great.

Try to change the location, if she likes it, she will raise the leaves within 5 minutes. It can also be lowered from abundant watering. So do not try to water better by spraying.

indoor-plants-tips.ru

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves?

Dracaena their drops the leaves rarely. If this happened, then the plant was poorly cared for, or they were not at home for a long time.

It must be taken into account that dracaena very sensitive to drafts. If you put it in a draft, then not only the leaves will fall.

Also, you can not put the flower in bright direct sunlight.

It is not necessary to water the plant.

Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root rot.

More often the plant should be sprayed. This dracaena loves, and the leaves will stand like ears in a hare in the cold.

The land in which the dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It must be well oxygenated. It is possible, and indeed necessary, to make drainage on 1/3 of the vase.

The soil needs to be loosened more often.

Dracaena will live longer.

Although the dracaena is an unpretentious indoor plant, in order for it to be beautiful and lush (the leaves look up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena lacks care are drooping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

Dracaena does not like being watered too often. The earth ball should dry out before the next watering. Young plants need to be repotted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

Perhaps the cause of drooping leaves is a lack of nutrients. It is necessary to feed the plant at least once a month (or once every 2 weeks). I use liquid vermicompost for top dressing.

Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

In the summer, spraying has a beneficial effect, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you have a plant on the balcony).

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Dracaena - home care

Dracaena is a very popular indoor plant with a large species and varietal diversity. There are varieties that grow only in wild nature, there are species that can survive only in greenhouse conditions, and there are room options, unpretentious and do not require special attention. In general, the most common indoor dracaena requires the most minimal care.

Sometimes people who are prone to superstitions may wonder if it is possible to keep dracaena at home, look for signs related to its indoor content. Usually the harm of dracaena is far-fetched and is nothing more than a prejudice. There are no restrictions on its content, except for the most obvious ones - the presence of allergies in one of the household members. In all other respects, this flower will only benefit.

Dracaena is a flower with longevity. Its life expectancy with indoor cultivation can be either five or fifteen years, and depends on the quality of care. How to care for dracaena at home so that she feels good and lives as long as possible? Follow these simple guidelines.

Lighting

Dracaena is a rather photophilous plant, so you can place it on the eastern and western windowsills. The south side is also acceptable, but try to keep the plant out of direct sunlight. In the midst of a summer afternoon, it is better to clean it in partial shade. If possible, provide the plant with diffused light - this will be the most ideal option.

If the lighting is insufficient, the leaves of the dracaena will begin to turn pale. A deep shadow will have a completely detrimental effect: the leaves will quickly fade and die.

If the lighting is artificial, then this is also suitable for the plant, it is quite capable of growing and developing well.

Temperature

The plant prefers moderate temperature regime in summer and cooler in winter, but does not tolerate cold well. Pick a warm place for him fresh air in summer - a balcony facing east or west is perfect. Be aware of the danger of direct sunlight. In spring and summer, the optimum temperature is 20-25 degrees. In winter, the dracaena is suitable for a temperature regime of 12-15 degrees, but not lower, otherwise the plant will freeze and die quickly. Also, dracaena should be protected from drafts and sudden changes in temperature.

Watering and humidity

The plant is quite moisture-loving, so watering should be plentiful, but systematic. It is always better to dry the plant slightly than to flood and rot it.

The intensity of watering depends on the location of the flower, the volume of the pot, the composition of the soil and the season. In summer, watering the dracaena must be provided at least a couple of times a week, while daily spraying with water at a temperature a couple of degrees higher than room temperature.

In winter, when the air temperature drops to 12-15 degrees, watering should be reduced to once a week. Dracaena "falls asleep" during this period. An exception is the case when it is located close to the heating battery. In this case, neither watering should be reduced, nor the number of sprayings, since dracaena should be watered frequently and plentifully at high air temperatures.

Regardless of the time of year, water should not be allowed to stagnate in a pot - the plant does not tolerate such an attitude. But the soil should not be allowed to dry out much even in winter. As soon as the surface layer of the soil dries up to three or better even two centimeters (no more), then it's time to water the flower. Before watering, loosen the surface layer of the soil, this will improve its breathability.

Spray the leaves both from the inside and outside, but always make sure that water does not accumulate, does not stagnate at the junction of the leaf with the stem - this can cause decay. Periodically, you can wipe the dracaena with a damp cloth, from time to time arrange a full-fledged warm shower, which will wash all the dust and dirt accumulated on the leaves, and also refresh the plant.

It is better to use filtered water for irrigation, but if this is not possible, then tap water is defended for at least twelve hours, for better purification it should also be boiled.

During the period of intensive growth (that is, from the beginning of April to the beginning of September), the dracaena is fed with fertilizers. This is done using special mineral supplements, their frequency is usually indicated in the instructions for use. Usually it's once every couple of weeks. Fertilizers must be used specialized, complex, which are sold in flower shops and are intended for indoor plants. Variegated varieties are best fed with special fertilizers designed specifically for variegated plants.

Timely transplantation is another guarantee of the longevity of your indoor dracaena. Since this plant has a strongly growing root system, it quickly becomes cramped in a pot. A plant that has just been brought home from the store must also always be moved to a new pot, but it is recommended not to do this immediately, but a month after the purchase.

You can roughly calculate whether a dracaena needs a transplant using the following parameters: for example, if a plant is about half a meter high, then it needs a pot of at least 20 cm in diameter. By comparing this proportion, you will determine whether it is time for the plant to move to a new container. You can also proceed from approximate data that transplantation should be done every two or three years - it is during this time that the roots have time to grow well. But it is better not to proceed from generalized data, but to consider each case and each variety separately, since the dracaena needs to be transplanted on time, preventing excessive root growth.

"Moving" is better to start in the spring, during the period of the most intensive growth, so the plant will take root better. When transplanting, try not to damage the root system of the plant. Prepare the drainage system in advance: pour, for example, expanded clay or pebbles, on the bottom of the pot. The drainage system means a lot to dracaena, as its root system is superficial.

The ideal scheme for transplantation, with good care and rapid growth, implies an annual transplant into a pot that is not much larger than the old one. You can’t take a pot for dracaena “for growth”, there is a risk that this will lead to the death of the plant. But a fairly mature dracaena should not be replanted so often, in which case it will be enough just to periodically replace the surface layer of soil with fresh soil containing a lot of nutrients.

The soil for dracaena can be bought ready-made, or you can mix it yourself. Usually for this equal parts mix turf and leaf soil with peat, sand and humus.

This procedure is rather decorative, since cutting the dracaena for its own benefit is not required. Pruning the stem stimulates the development of lateral buds and starts the branching process. This is especially true for such a variety as bordered dracaena: as it grows, the lower, older leaves die off, over time, all the foliage is concentrated at the top. The remaining bare trunk does not look very nice, which is why the dracaena is cut to get side shoots.

Incidentally, in addition to decorative function, pruning indoor flower dracaena - propagating it using cuttings. The mother plant will branch, and the new dracaena-top or stalk will give life to a new full-fledged flower.

The best time for pruning is the same as for transplanting, spring or early summer. The plant should be already old enough, at least thirty centimeters in height. The cut point should be five centimeters below the tallest and youngest leaves.

When pruning, use a well-sharpened knife, charcoal or activated charcoal, you can also stock up on Zircon. Cut the stem, first sprinkle the cut with charcoal, and then process it with Zircon. A cut cutting can be used for propagation, namely rooting in water.

Dracaena care: species differences

Indoor flower dracaena species and varieties can be very different. In general, care for indoor dracaena does not differ much depending on their species and cultivar. But there are a few points that the grower should know.

1. Dracaena marginata (aka bordered dracaena) is the most common and most unpretentious species of all domestic dracaena. Caring for her is no different from what was described above.
2. Dracaena Godzefa and Dragon, unlike all other varieties, calmly tolerate dry air.
3. Dracaena fragrant, or fragrans, tolerates cold well. At a temperature of only +10, it is even able to bloom, although it does this very rarely at room conditions, despite the temperature regime created for it. She is also able to calmly be outdoors in the summer. For the rest of the dracaena, it is still preferable to be kept indoors and not leave its limits.
4. Dracaena bent, or reflex - the most capricious and demanding variety. It is usually kept only in greenhouses, because it requires constant maintenance of a certain temperature, humidity and lighting.
5. Dracaena sander, the very famous lucky bamboo, is so unpretentious that it can grow even just in water. It does not require landing in the ground, but it is desirable to add to the water mineral fertilizers, because without them, the leaves of the dracaena will turn yellow. In this case, only distilled water should be used, in extreme cases filtered. Using tap water can also cause the foliage to turn yellow.

To learn more about dracaena, you can read the article

Diseases and pests

Like all indoor plants, dracaena has its own problematic and vulnerable places, diseases and its pests. The most common of them are discussed below.

Scale insects, thrips, spider mites are the main pests that affect dracaena.

When affected by thrips, light spots and silver stains appear on the leaves. In this case, you can treat the leaves with soapy water, leaving it for a day, and then flushing. If such a measure did not help, then it is necessary to treat the dracaena with insecticides.

The spider mite infects the leaves, leads to their yellowing, drying and death. A characteristic symptom of this disease is the presence of cobwebs on the plant. In such a case, it is recommended to wipe the dracaena with soapy water and give it a warm shower. If the measures taken do not help, it must be sprayed with Fufan or Fitover. The spider mite starts up with increased dryness of the air, and therefore one of the preventive measures of the disease is its timely moistening and periodic spraying of the plant with water.

If the leaves turn yellow and dry

Not always, when the leaves turn yellow on the indoor flower of the dracaena, this is due to the defeat of its pests. Perhaps the reason lies in insufficient care. Yellowing of the leaves occurs as a result of dry air, with insufficient watering and lack of fertilizer. Drying and twisted leaves appear if the plant is too cold.

If the dracaena lowered its leaves. The solution to the problem is at what point it happened. Indoor dracaena can drop leaves immediately after purchase, after transplantation (with soil replacement) and damage to the integrity of the roots, as a result of improper watering.

If the leaves are lowered by the newly purchased dracaena, there is no reason to panic - the plant simply undergoes acclimatization, gets used to new conditions of light, temperature and humidity. Almost all dracaena drop leaves immediately after they were brought home from the store.

If the leaves dropped immediately after transplanting into a new pot, this is a sign of damage to the root system.

Insufficient air humidity and improperly organized watering regimen can also provoke leaf drop. Either the flower was flooded, or, conversely, dried.

Indoor palm dracaena Marginata, lucky bamboo Sander, blooming Fragrans - all these varieties of dracaena require certain care, and this care has minimal differences depending on the species. Dracaena can be called a very unpretentious indoor plant, because it does not require so much attention. Good lighting, sufficient humidity, timely transplantation - these are the requirements that are inherent in almost every indoor plant. So, if you decide to get yourself a dracaena, don’t be afraid of the difficulties with leaving it, since there are no difficulties as such.

Dracaena - diseases and treatment with a photo

Dracaena - Enough unpretentious plant for home growing. However, receiving the wrong care, it loses its decorative appearance. The dracaena has lowered its leaves, the tips of the leaves are drying up. What to do in such cases? So, experts consider the main problems and diseases of dracaena, their treatment with a photo.

Why do the tips of the leaves dry and turn yellow in dracaena? Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Causes, treatment, photo

Typical dracaena diseases and their effective treatment with an explanation from professional flower growers. Photo attached.

Why do dracaena drop leaves? Causes may be as follows: the plant goes through an acclimatization period after purchase, a transplant was carried out with the replacement of soil, which violated the integrity of the root system, improper watering.

Only a purchased plant must necessarily undergo a period of acclimatization under new conditions. Dracaena is no exception. The level of illumination in the new room, humidity and air temperature - all this can affect the well-being of the flower. There is no need to worry if the dracaena has just been bought and it has lowered its leaves. For prevention, you need to examine the plant carefully. If there are no pests on it, the root system is in order, the trunk does not rot - there is no need to take drastic actions. Experts recommend not replanting a flower within 1 month after purchase. After this period, perform a transplant by transshipment and strictly follow the rules for caring for dracaena. As practice shows, all dracaena drop leaves after purchase. This is normal. In a healthy flower, only the crown, that is, young leaves, will look up.

Dracaena dropped leaves immediately after transplanting. This indicates a violation of the root system of the flower, namely, very thin roots that form a cobweb at the bottom of the pot. They are involved in the nutrition of the plant and provide the plant with water. It is not recommended to transplant dracaena in a complete replacement of the soil. She's more suitable for potty transfer. bigger size. Thus, the root system will not be injured.

However, if the transplant has already been carried out and the dracaena has lowered its leaves, while its lower leaves can turn yellow intensely, you need to do the following: spray the flower with cyclone (4 drops of the drug per 1 liter of water) and place it under a greenhouse or a spacious cap. Leaves should not touch the walls of the greenhouse. At the same time, watering is significantly reduced. Before the next watering, the earth in the pot should dry out completely (you can do it once every 2-3 weeks). Spraying a flower, on the contrary, is necessary very often with ordinary water in order to maintain high humidity under the greenhouse. The number of sprays depends on the room temperature. The colder the less. Zikron can be used only once a week. At the first watering, the cyclone must be added to the water for irrigation. This stimulates the growth of the root system. After a transplant with a violation of the root system, the dracaena lacks moisture. In this case, intensive watering will lead to decay of the root system. The plant will replenish the lack of moisture through the crown. That is why the greenhouse maintains high humidity.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves? Reason: Wrong watering regime. In the first case, the amount of moisture is simply not enough for the plant to maintain normal leaf turgor. In the second, there is too much moisture, which led to decay of the root system. Through damaged roots, the plant also does not receive enough moisture. Increasing the amount of watering will not solve the problem.

If the dracaena lowered its leaves from a lack of moisture, what should I do? It is necessary to place the flower under the greenhouse and carry out regular spraying. It is impossible to sharply increase the amount of watering, as this will harm the roots. Keep the plant under the greenhouse for 3-5 days. Water the flower should be plentiful, but only after the earthen coma has completely dried. Be sure to remove water from the pan.

Dracaena gets an excess of moisture. As a result, the root system cannot cope with an excess of fluid and begins to rot. Damaged roots no longer absorb moisture from the ground, and therefore the dracaena lowers its leaves. What to do? First of all, normalize watering. Next, you need to carefully, without violating the integrity of the root system, remove the dracaena from the pot by the trunk. Check out the roots. If the root system is light yellow or white, but not brown, it is healthy. The plant is returned back to the pot and watering is reduced. Watering should be plentiful, but only after the soil in the pot has completely dried out.

If the dracaena has lowered its leaves and its roots are worn out, flabby and have an unhealthy hue, this indicates rotting. Damaged roots are removed. The plant is transplanted into a new, special, slightly moist soil. Dracaena is placed under a greenhouse. Watering is minimized, and spraying, on the contrary, is increased. It is possible to add zikron to water for spraying. The plant is removed from the greenhouse when it begins to expel new leaves.

Why do the tips of the leaves dry on dracaena? Reason: shortage sunlight, irrigation regime is violated, heavy soil.

Dracaena is a light-loving flower, and therefore very often its leaf tips turn yellow from lack of light. This is especially noticeable in winter. If dracaena is grown indoors, the tips of its leaves turn yellow, while other care conditions are strictly observed, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional illumination energy saving lamp till 12 o'clock. The flower should be placed at the east or west window. If she stands near the south window, then she is sheltered from direct sunlight. Northern windows are not suitable for a flower.

You have noticed that the dracaena looks bad, the tips of its leaves dry. What to do in such cases? You need to pay attention to the irrigation regime. Perhaps the plant was waterlogged. As a result, its root system rots, the leaves do not receive enough moisture through diseased roots, and therefore their tips dry. Dracaena is watered only after the soil in the pot has completely dried. Watering in this case is carried out abundantly, so that the water goes into the pan through the drainage holes. The water from the pan is immediately removed. Otherwise, the bottom of the pot will not dry out, the roots will rot. You can not put a pot with dracaena on wet expanded clay. To check the condition of the root system, the plant is carefully removed from the pot. Healthy roots will be light. Regular spraying will help the flower. can be added to the water for spraying 1 time per week tsikron or epin.

Dracaena dry the tips of the leaves if the room has low humidity. To do this, carry out frequent spraying of the flower, put a humidifier next to it. It is impossible to put a plant near heating devices during the heating season.

Dracaena does not grow, new leaves grow deformed, stems become thinner and stretched. Reason: the plant does not have enough sunlight. Perhaps the flower is located in the depths of the room, where light does not penetrate, or the length of daylight hours is reduced due to the onset of autumn-winter. Experts recommend placing dracaena near windows on the south or southeast side of the house, but with obligatory shading from the midday heat. To scatter direct sunlight on the window, it is enough to hang a transparent curtain. In autumn and winter, dracaena is recommended to be illuminated with a lamp. artificial light(fluorescent or special phytolamp). In total, the length of daylight hours for the successful development of leaflets should be 12-14 hours.

With the onset of autumn-winter (from October to March), experts recommend arranging a dormant period for the dracaena, the attraction of which does not observe the growth of new leaves. To do this, the temperature of the plant content is reduced (to +17. +18 degrees), watering is minimized, spraying and fertilizing are not carried out. During the dormant period, the dracaena slows down its growth, and therefore, in low light conditions, it does not expel new, deformed leaves, its branches do not become thinner.

Why does dracaena turn yellow and what to do?

Most types of room dracaena are very unpretentious in their care: they do not need to be watered or sprayed every day, there is no need to put them in bright sunlight and maintain a constant level of temperature in the room. By devoting just a few minutes a week to caring for a plant, you can get very beautiful plant that will delight you and your loved ones with its appearance.

However, even with proper and regular care, the flower may begin to turn yellow, dry and lose leaves. Before dealing with the consequence, it is necessary to determine the cause of the deterioration of his condition.

Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow:

plant age: the life of an individual sheet does not exceed 1.5-2 years. After that, it begins to gradually turn yellow, dry and eventually fall off. This, first of all, concerns the lower leaves of the plant, since they are the most mature and their life time is gradually coming to an end. The natural death of the lower leaves usually proceeds rather slowly.
What to do: so that the plant does not lose its decorative effect, the tips of dying leaves are cut off to healthy tissue. Even a third and smaller part of the cut sheet will still work on the flower, so you do not need to remove the entire sheet at once.

Insufficient air humidity. In some types of dracaena (Marginates, for example), the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out if there is insufficient humidity in the room.
What to do: dealing with this is easy and simple! The leaves will stop turning yellow and dry if they are regularly sprayed with water or increase the humidity in the room using a humidifier.

Overflow, overwatering. Yellowing of dracaena leaves may be the first symptom that your flower is starting to die due to excess moisture in the pot. Another feature the fact that the flower is poured - the trunk becomes soft to the touch.
What to do: if you water the flower often enough and do not let the earthy coma dry out, then you need to take urgent measures to save the plant. The flower must be removed from the pot, dry the roots, cut off those on which rot has appeared and transplanted into new soil.

Lack of moisture. If you have not watered your dracaena for a long time, then it may begin to die from a lack of moisture and the first symptoms of this will be yellowing and wilting of the leaves.
What to do: to avoid this, it is necessary to observe the mode of watering the plant: water it only when the earthen lump in the pot dries out completely, but do not delay watering.

Direct sunlight. As already mentioned several times in other articles, all types of dracaena do not like strong sunlight and direct sunlight. It is very easy to determine that the plant turns yellow precisely because of strong lighting: at the same time, the upper leaves, which are exposed to the sun's rays, become duller and burn out. In addition, excessive heating of the leaf (especially in summer) causes the leaf to overheat and dry out.
What to do: rearrange the flower pot so that direct sunlight does not fall on it.

• Draft and low temperature. The optimum room temperature for a flower is 18-25 degrees, lowering the temperature below 16 degrees can be detrimental to dracaena. As well as cold drafts: it is they who most often cause a deterioration in the health and appearance of the plant in the cold season.
  What to do: if the pot is on a window or somewhere in the aisle, make sure that there is no draft there and the temperature on the windowsill is not even 18 degrees. Remember that even plastic windows can blow in strong winds. It is especially important to monitor this during the cold season, when cold air from the street can freeze the plant.
• Diseases and pests: if you constantly care for a flower, follow all the conditions for caring for it, but the leaves still begin to turn yellow, then some disease or pest may be a possible cause of this.
  What to do: try treating the plant with a special preparation (if you don’t know which one to use, go to a flower shop, describe the symptoms of the disease, and the sellers will tell you which preparation is best to use). Even once can sometimes be enough for your plant to become healthy again.

Dracaena leaves turn yellow. Care. Transfer*

#1 Nastya

#2 Natalie

I know. that the lower ones should die off every two years, but for mine it all happens somehow abruptly: 6 pieces have already fallen off in the last month, and at least one more is going (and she has three crowns in total) Is this normal?

Nastya, two years is the average lifespan of a dracaena leaf. And it usually “falls out” twice a year, in spring and autumn. This is not a gradual process, but a sharp one - many leaves turn yellow and dry at once. Moreover, the timing of leaf fall can shift depending on the weather. Mine was also late this spring, the leaf fall is just ending (usually this happens in April).
Six dead leaves on three stems is, believe me, very little. The older the dracaena is, the more leaves will fly from it. And you should not be afraid of this. Although sometimes I feel uneasy, I start to twitch - am I flooding it? 🙂
If the roots do not rot, then there is no reason to worry.

#3 sem

#4 Lena

After we bought it, my dratsenka (like Kanzi) started having problems with leaves. The lower leaves dry out at the tips (to blackness), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

Light yellow spots can also appear from an excess of light (in any case, in the marginate). But in principle - yes, it looks like it is frozen (yukia are more frost-resistant). The medicine is epin, or analogues.

#5 sem

#6 Lena

And what to do with the leaves?

Do not cut - they will fall off. She is now recovering, recovering and growing. It's good that spring is in the yard.

#7 Galga

The lower leaves dry out at the tips (to blackness), but a week ago I noticed light yellow spots on the same leaves.

I won’t say about the yellow spots, but the blackness, I’m sure, is from the fact that they froze. Recently I brought the same dracaena from Natasha and did not save it. I carefully cut off all the black tips with scissors, leaving a border no more than 1 mm. The lower leaves of 2 pieces had to be completely removed. Now the bush on a small leg turned out. So what to do. If you don’t want to use a bush, you can re-root when you get well. I have just one of the tops, re-rooted by Natasha, from her old dracaena. The plant was sick for about 2 weeks after the move. Then the neoplasm of spots stopped. Now new leaves, which were not visible, have grown by half a centimeter.

#8 Natali

#9 standby_md

#10 Xu

on them like that. hm. If you look at them from outside leaf, they are like tubercles. The leaf itself is dark green, but these tubercles are more faded. What is it? Isn't it a false shield? Or is this how it should be with dracaena?

I don't know if dracaena have such things
You start digging in a book about diseases - it blows your head
Found: spots - convex, first pale green (then reddish-brown) - signs of insufficient illumination with excessive watering
or! watering with cold water, sunburn.
Maybe while they were transporting (or in the store) the conditions were unsuitable?
Infectious diseases and pests with almost the same symptoms.
IMHO, you just need to watch these spots - whether they will increase, whether they will appear on new leaves. You can think about anything.

#11 Lena

Girls, I also bought myself a drapery.

#12 sem

#13 standby_md

Transfer, for sure! In peat, probably? They torture them all in peat. Roots - there are, but I don’t know why they suddenly decide to grow. Convexity definitely should not be! I don't know who/what it is, but. Are there a lot of leaves?

Her roots, already limp from the ground, stick out about 5 cm + small, very thin - also above the ground. The earth looks like peat. So how do I transplant it? Completely wash off the soil from the roots or is it enough to top up? I read that they don't tolerate transplants well.
The spots are not on all the leaves, but only on some. I specially donated one sheet to see what it is. I picked it with my fingernail, and there it was just a plate of the sheet that peeled off, as if hollow inside. In short, I don't know what it is. I'll be watching for spots. But every fireman I have already processed it with agravertine.

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• Dracaena - how to care for at home Dracaena belongs to the asparagus family. In nature, it grows in South America, India, canary islands, Central and East Africa. The name of the plant comes from the Greek language. It means "female dragon". This name […]

We fell in love with this plant due to its unpretentiousness and graceful beauty. Perhaps, dracaena is one of the few palms that can grow indoors without much supervision. Therefore, if you decide to get a room palm tree, you will have plenty to choose from. After all, the varieties of the motley African woman are for every taste! Dracaena flower home photo and care in this material.

Family: dracaena. Bloom: depends on the type. Growing: simple.

Dracaena flower - striped dragon

Previously, dracaena and all its species, and it has about 80 of them, belonged to the asparagus family, and only recently acquired the eponymous "family" of dracaena. The name comes from the Greek word "dracaina", which means "female dragon". It is no wonder that the people called the plant "dragon tree". And one of the varieties does have a symbolic meaning: it is believed that the tree grew in the place where the blood of the dragon was shed ...

A characteristic feature of the dracaena of this species is the red resin, which is used as a coloring matter. The dried red juice has long been served as dragon's blood and used for embalming. Dracaena dragon is considered a symbol of the island of Tenerife, the locals consider this majestic tree to be sacred. The variety is distinguished by its impressive size, sometimes up to 30 m in height and an unusual crown shape. The tree is a long-liver, the oldest was found even before the development of the island, the girth of its trunk was 15 m, and according to various sources, its age was several millennia.

The dragon tree can be called one of the most useful: all varieties are volatile plants that purify the air from harmful fumes. Filter plants.

Do you know...
The popular bamboo spirals that we see in bouquets and floral arrangements are not bamboo at all, but one of the varieties of dracaena, namely Sander.

The birthplace of these numerous plants is Africa, some dracaena feel comfortable in South Asia, the tropics of Central America, Australia and New Guinea. The dragon tree is often confused with the cordilina, which is smaller in size. In landscaping, several of the most decorative species are used. Dracaena home photo and views.

Dracaena fragrant - African with a powerful trunk and wide leaves, blooming with white and very fragrant flowers. In shape, they are similar to sansevera flowers. The dimensions of the plant require a lot of space, it can grow to the ceiling.

fragrant
fragrant

Another blooming view, dracaena Godzeff, she is also surcolose - this is the most unusual and rare variety. Three varieties are known: Punctulata, Florida Beauty and Milky Way. This species pleases with flowering on any, even windows oriented to the north side, requires support in the process of growth, reaches a height of 3 m. The flowers are small, white, with a pleasant smell. The leaves are shaped like hoya leaves.

d. godzeffa
D. godzeff Florida Beauty
d. Surcolose Milky Way and Punctulata

The dracaena deremenskaya flower became the progenitor of many spectacular varieties. These are miniature bushy plants with bordered broad leaves, approx. 80 cm. Lemon Laim and White Stripe, Kanzi and White Jewel varieties are very beautiful. As it grows, the lower leaves fall off, forming a dense but short stem.

D. Deremenskaya Kanzi and White Jewel
D. Deremenskaya White Stripe and Lemon Laim

The bent dracaena is very nice until it exceeds 40 cm, then the trunk begins to bend, and when rearranged, it twists. Therefore, this species requires careful shaping and repeated pruning. Most beautiful varieties– Song of India and Song of Jamaica. By the way, this is the most capricious of indoor species.

e. recurved Song of India and Song of Jamaica

The best-known banded dracaena has cultivars with bright pink, cream and light green leaf stripes: Colorama and Magenta. The evergreen tree grows up to 3 m tall and often forms several crowns. A variety with a filiform narrow border along the edge of the leaf is called dracaena Marginata.

e. marginata
fringed Magenta and Colorama

According to an ancient Aztec legend, the dracaena flower is considered the tree of happiness. So, a warrior who once fell in love with the daughter of the high priest was doomed to suffering. The father of his beloved was ready to give him his daughter as a wife only if leaves grow on a stick stuck in the ground. For five days the lover desperately watered the lifeless stick, and at night full moon she came to life. Since then, a branch cut at midnight on a full moon has been considered a symbol of eternal love!

Care rules

These palms are the most purchased plants, they can be grown anywhere, they are extremely hardy and do not require care. Despite the abundance of species, the cultivation rules for all are approximately the same. The site flowery-blog.ru will tell you more.

Temperature and lighting

Dracaena and its species are photophilous, but in different ways. In the direct sun, only the bordered one is exposed without fear, the rest can get burned. The very best lighting is the morning sun, or bright diffused light. In winter, so that narrow, slightly colored leaves do not grow, the plant needs to be additionally illuminated. The exception is Godzeff's dracaena (except for its variegated species), it prefers bright diffused lighting, but will calmly endure the lack of light in winter.

The dragon palm tree grows well in room conditions, the minimum allowable temperature is 15 degrees with poor watering, and the most comfortable is approx. 25, provided that the room is not stuffy.

Watering and humidity

Regular, and most importantly, moderate watering is the key to good growth and development of indoor palm trees. The dragon tree easily tolerates a temporary lack of moisture, but systematic overflow, coupled with a lack of light and low temperature, is detrimental to the roots. Depending on the size of the pot and temperature, watering can be done after 7-12 days. eight important rules glaze.

Humidity doesn't play much of a role in the growing process, but spraying won't hurt, especially during the hot season. In addition, periodically it is necessary to clean the leaves from dust with a soft cloth. Leaf feeds.

Fertilizers and top dressings

During active growth, the dragon tree requires regular feeding. It is carried out 2 times a month with any fertilizer for decorative foliage. In summer, you can alternate mineral mixtures with organic top dressing. In winter, if there is growth, you can support the plant by fertilizing 1 time in 2 months. If the flower hibernates in conditions of low light and humidity, it is better to exclude any fertilizers.

On a note
Flowering occurs from December to April. With artificial pollination at home, round fruits with seeds can be tied.

Reproduction and transplant

Dracaena is transplanted once a year for young specimens and once every 3 years for adults. For large palms, you can only change annually upper layer substrate in a pot. When choosing a pot, it is important to consider that the root system of the dracaena is voluminous, so the plant needs a spacious pot with good drainage. In this case, it is better to give preference to stable ceramics! good time for transplantation - the end of winter-beginning of spring.

The substrate should be loose, nutritious and slightly acidic. How to determine the acidity of the soil. For the mixture, garden soil, peat, sand and a little leaf or coniferous humus are taken. In the absence of the necessary components, you can limit yourself to garden soil and purchased peat mixture, which are combined to achieve the optimal consistency. How to make soil for flowers.

Most bushy varieties have a beautiful low rosette of leaves at first, but with age the stem gradually becomes bare and they take on the appearance of “false palms”. Top pruning encourages branching. Dracaena Marginata (bordered) is also amenable to formation, “candelabra” with three or five horns, “dead loops” and chaotically curved volumetric bushes are made from trunks. It remains only to maintain the given form.

For the dracaena flower, reproduction is carried out by cuttings in the spring. Most species are easily rooted by apical and stem cuttings in water, or a light mixture of sand and peat (photo above).

Growing problems?

The dracaena flower is not difficult to care for, is not very susceptible to diseases and rarely suffers from pests. But it weakens and loses its attractiveness in inappropriate conditions.

If the dracaena turns yellow ...

The most dangerous reasons for this behavior are excessive watering, lack of light, or low temperatures. Any of these factors provokes rot of the root system and intense wilting of the foliage. Carefully check the moisture level in the pot with a wooden skewer: if the soil sticks, watering should be postponed.

Clogged and heavy soil can also cause leaves to turn yellow. The earth should be loose and breathable. Also important are dressings that support beauty. For a decorative deciduous palm, this is, first of all, nitrogen! When a flower grows for a long time in one pot, there is a strong deficiency of trace elements, so periodically do transshipment.

If dracaena has dry leaf tips ...

This phenomenon is quite rare and not progressive. The reason for this is dry air, especially in winter. Try to place the palm pot away from heaters, spray the leaves more often. So that the defect is not very noticeable, you can cut the ends with scissors at an angle to the central vein.

If the dracaena grows pale leaves ...

The dracaena flower can change color in conditions of nutritional deficiency - in cramped conditions, inappropriate poor substrate, or in the complete absence of top dressing during growth. In addition, wintering becomes a difficult period when the temperature is high and there is little light. Away from a light source, many palm trees change direction of growth, reach for the sun, and bend. It is useful to rotate the pot from time to time and provide a sufficient level of lighting.

If there are spots on the leaves of dracaena ...

The palm tree could overheat in the sun, or freeze in a cold draft, so position your “pet” correctly. Low temperature plus high humidity contribute to the appearance of fungal diseases in the form of spots and plaque on the leaves. Diseases of indoor flowers.

• If the dracaena lowered its leaves ...

This behavior is typical for palms after transplantation, to which dracaena Marginata reacts especially strongly. Otherwise, it is worth checking the soil, it may be very dry and the plant is thirsty! In combination with yellow leaves, this may, on the contrary, be a sign of overflow.

Of the pests, the spider mite is the most dangerous, advice will help get rid of it: pests of indoor flowers.

The dracaena home photo of which you saw is a popular indoor plant that has many varieties of variegated and flowering varieties in reserve. Growing it is not difficult!

If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ? If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Dracaena: how to transplant a dragon tree

In recent years, dracaena has firmly established itself in the first lines of the list of popular indoor plants. Very similar to a palm tree, she is more patient and accommodating than hamedoreas, neanthes and other eminent tropical beauties. Dracaena is easy to care for; at home, it can reach a height of three meters and live for several decades. But only that dracaena, which is properly looked after and which is provided with a timely transplant, will become a long-liver.

Dracaena in natural and domestic conditions

Dracaena is a palm tree for busy and not too diligent flower growers. Although she is not even a relative of palm trees. Only outwardly it is very similar: a slender bare stem with a cap of leaves at the top.

In nature, dracaena lives for a very long time. On the island of Tenerife, the sacred grew dragon tree 23 meters high with a trunk girth of 15 meters. Inside the hollow of this giant, the locals, who worshiped the dracaena, set up an altar. According to the biologist and teacher N.M. Verzilin, who described this tree in the last century, this tree could be seen by navigators as far back as 1402. On the same island, a 21-meter dracaena was found, which is alive to this day, which is supposedly over 300 years old.

The false dracaena palm compares favorably with the true ones by its unpretentious disposition, modest requirements for the conditions of detention, and the ability to forgive flower growers for their mistakes.

This plant, especially marginata (bordered) and dragon tree, can green up the dark corners of your home. It grows without problems in partial shade. Varieties with variegated leaves feel better in bright but diffused light. Direct rays can burn delicate greens. Dracaena loves artificial lighting, so it often decorates offices.

Dracaena does not require a special temperature, moderate, room temperature is suitable for it: +25 and above in summer, 18–20 degrees in winter. That's just from its sharp drops and from drafts, the dracaena must be protected - after all, she is a southerner.

It is advised to regularly spray dracaena and moisten the air for them. But this fully applies only to especially delicate species, for example, fragrant and bent. As practice shows, the plant has already acclimatized in the dryness of our apartments. Although, of course, a warm shower from a sprayer will only be welcome. Dracaena will also like the hygienic wiping of leaves from dust.

Summer watering of dracaena should be plentiful: the hotter, the more. In winter, water is limited, but the soil is not brought to complete dryness. The lower the temperature, the less moisture. Excess water at the roots leads to disease. Therefore, it is useful to loosen the top layer of soil so that air penetrates into the pot unhindered.

Over the years, dracaena, like real palms, loses its lower leaves. This is a natural phenomenon. You need to worry if the leaf fall becomes massive.

To stimulate the lateral buds and rejuvenate, dracaena is recommended to be cut. For healthy plants, not less than 30 cm tall, the top is cut off with a sharp knife, by about 5-6 cm. It can then be rooted. The wound must be lubricated with garden pitch or sprinkled with charcoal. After about a month, new shoots should appear under the cut.

Video: how to care for a palm tree for the lazy

How to plant or transplant indoor dracaena

Dracaena are usually transplanted every two years. But this rule can be broken. If the plant is developing well, does not cause concern - it is better not to disturb it. Even the most qualified transplant is a strong stress for the plant.

The root system will inevitably be injured during this operation. But in some situations, a transplant is the only way out.

When to transplant dracaena:

The root system of dracaena develops in depth, it has few lateral processes. Therefore, when choosing a new pot, pay attention to tall and narrow containers. After transplanting, there should be enough space below for the development of roots.

The size of the container depends on the size of the dracaena. A plant 40-45 cm tall, which requires a pot with a diameter of 15-20 cm, can serve as a guide here. Every 2-3 years, the diameter should increase by 2-3 cm, no more. You should not save and take dishes for growth for dracaena. The roots will not be able to settle in a large volume of soil, the moisture will stagnate and the putrefactive process will begin.

It makes no sense to think for a long time which is better: plastic or ceramics, the picky dracaena grows equally well in dishes made of any material. So here rely only on your taste and finances.

But be sure to check the drainage holes in the pot, and if there are none, be sure to make them. They should be large enough to rid the plant of unnecessary moisture.

Required soil and drainage

Dracaena are not capricious in the choice of soil. False palm trees like a breathable, moderately nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (6-6.5 pH) substrate with a small addition of leavening components and peat.

You can buy specialized soil for dracaena or palm trees, or you can make a mixture yourself. Here are some recipes:

• sod land- 2 parts, leaf and compost - 1 part each, peat - 0.5;
• for 2 shares of sod land - 1 hardwood and 0.5 coarse sand;
• for 2 shares of turf land, 1 share of sand, peat and humus land;
• equally leafy earth, high-moor peat, cut moss and half the share of perlite or coarse sand;
• into two parts of rotted compost or humus for a piece of leafy soil, sand or vermiculite;
• sod land, greenhouse and leafy humus in equal shares, half of the share is river sand;
• dilute universal potting soil halfway with garden soil, add a little crushed moss.

Useful additives can be added to the soil mixture for dracaena: crumbs of charcoal or red brick. Coal protects the roots and soil from rot, and the brick increases looseness and absorbs excess moisture. The proportion is approximately the following: for a bucket of soil 3–4 handfuls of coal and 0.5 kg of crushed brick. Like dracaena and coconut fiber. Just before adding it, soak the briquette: the coconut substrate greatly increases in volume.

Expanded clay, pebbles, vermiculite, brick chips, polystyrene are suitable for the drainage layer. It is not worth using drainage twice, especially expanded clay and brick, it absorbs harmful salts.

Proper soil sterilization




It is better to sterilize the soil in advance, about a month before the proposed transplant. She must lie down and come to life.

Required time for transplantation

Young dracaena (3–4 years of age) are usually transplanted after a year or two, adult specimens - every 5 years or less. Transplanting can be done throughout the growing season (growth), that is, from spring to mid-autumn. But spring (March-April) resettlement is the best option. The plant has awakened from hibernation, actively growing greenery and root system. This means that the new land will be quickly and profitably settled.

However, in some cases it is necessary to change the soil and the pot even in late autumn. For example, the plant got sick from overflow, pests were found in the soil, or you purchased a dracaena growing in transport soil, and spring is still far away. There is nothing too extreme for a plant in the autumn transplant. Just treat the migrant more carefully and create milder conditions for him. If the dracaena does not take root, spray it with warm water with the addition of a stimulant (Zircon, Epin, Skor).

Transshipment - the best way to transplant

Transshipment is the most gentle type of transplant. It is suitable for healthy adult plants that need a little more room to grow. During transshipment, earthen is kept unchanged. And a new soil is poured between it and the walls of the pot. As a rule, dracaena tolerates this procedure perfectly. She does not have to spend energy on adaptation.

Step-by-step instructions for transshipment of dracaena

• Before transshipment, do not water the dracaena for 3-4 days, then the earthen ball will be saved.
• Prepare new soil, drainage and pot.
• Pour a drainage layer at the bottom, some soil.
• Tilt the pot with dracaena or, if dimensions allow, turn over to get an earthen ball with roots. You can push it through the drainage hole.
• Place an earth ball in the center of the new pot, the top of the ball should be just a little lower top edge containers.
• Gradually add soil with different parties, compacting with your fingers and shaking the pot.
• Do not fill the pot to the top so that it is convenient to water the plant, and do not leave voids in the soil.
• After transplanting, water the dracaena well.
• Put it in a warm (+20-22 o C), slightly shaded place.
• Water moderately for two weeks, avoiding overflow, spray occasionally. Monitor the condition of the plant.
• If there are no problems, put the dracaena in a permanent place and take care of it as usual.

Requirements for transplanting a plant after purchase

When buying dracaena, be careful. Look at the foliage, it should be clean with green tips. Often in flower shops you can see plants with cut leaves. This means that they are incorrectly kept: in too dry air or without watering, and by cutting the tips of the leaves they try to mask the errors. Also inspect the lower part of the leaves and the stem: if there are any traces of pests.

When you brought the dracaena home, do not rush to introduce it to other green inhabitants. Quarantine the plant for at least 2 weeks. During this time, problems not noticed in the store may appear. In addition, the dracaena needs to adapt to the new environment.

And after two weeks it is necessary to decide the question: to transplant the dracaena or not. If there is no doubt about the health of the plant, wait with the transplant until spring. There are some problems, for example, poor soil quality, transplant your false palm tree at any time of the year. Typically, store plants are kept in a poor peat substrate. But for dracaena, it is not so harmful, it, unlike cacti, is tolerant of peat. Therefore, when transplanting a recently purchased plant, do not completely clean the root system, but remove only what is lagging behind.

Landing and transplant

• Pour a layer of expanded clay or other drainage into the new pot. On top of it - the soil mixture.
• Do not water the dracaena before transplanting for 3-4 days, so that the earth at the roots dries out and does not crumble.
• Run a knife or spatula along the edge of the flower pot, separating the earthen ball from the walls.

  Video: how to transplant dracaena

  Transplanting a large dracaena

  At home, over time, dracaena grows into a three-meter tree. Such a giant is very difficult to transplant. It is much easier to update only the top layer (5–6 cm) of soil. Humus or other useful components must be added to the new soil for nutritional value.

  But sometimes a transplant is unavoidable. Then look for a helper. It is very difficult to cope with a tall dracaena transplant alone.

  Stages of transplanting a large specimen:

• Before transplanting, do not water the dracaena for several days to make it easier to remove the earthen ball from the pot.
• Prepare the soil mixture, drainage and pot.
• At the bottom of the container, pour a drainage layer and part of the soil.
• Use a knife or spatula to gently swipe across inner walls old pot to separate the overgrown roots.
• If the roots have grown into the drainage holes, cut them off.
• Get the dracaena with an earthy clod from the old pot (you may have to stand on a chair for this, holding the plant by the stem, and the assistant will pull the pot). Another option: carefully lay the plant on its side and tap the pot well, then carefully pull out the dracaena along with the earthy clod.
• Shake off the soil slightly, do not remove all. Remove roots that are too long from below, do not worry too much during the operation - dracaena will quickly restore what was lost.
• Transfer the plant to a new pot, set it in the center and gradually cover the distance between the walls and the earthen clod with soil, lightly tamping it down.
• Water the soil around the circumference, wait for it to settle, and add more soil. But do not try to fill the pot to the brim, otherwise it will be inconvenient to water later, change the top layer of soil.

For dracaenas that are too large, so as not to replant often, you can take the pot slightly for growth. And it is better to spend money on ceramic. It is more stable than plastic.

Video: how to transplant a high dracaena

Post transplant care

After the dracaena has moved to a new pot, it needs to create greenhouse conditions for a couple of weeks. This means that the plant is placed in a quiet and warm place without drafts, protected from direct sun. The best lighting is dim.

Water the dracaena very carefully. After transplantation, the main danger is waterlogging of the soil. The roots have not yet penetrated the new soil, moisture may not be absorbed and stagnate in a pot. This will lead to souring and rot. Pests are happy to settle in moist soil.

Transplant problems

Most often, dracaena safely moves from pot to pot and quickly adapts. But there are also problematic transitions. Then the plant becomes dull, the leaves droop, the green hat of the foliage turns yellow. What is the cause of the discomfort? It can be assumed that one or more mistakes were made during the transplant:

1. Incorrectly selected soil mixture. Dracaena does not tolerate heavy and too oily soil; soil with a high content of peat, which repels moisture, is not suitable for it. Solution - new transplant to the right land.
2. The new pot is too big. A plant weakened by transplantation cannot use all the soil. The undeveloped soil will be constantly wet, then it will turn sour, and the growth of putrefactive flora will begin. And there close to the rot of the roots. The way out is transplanting into a smaller pot with soil replacement.
3. Waterlogging after transplantation is the most common problem. Caring owners water the plant, without waiting for the surface of the earth to dry out, the soil turns into a swamp, the flower becomes even sadder. To please, it is watered again. With such "care" and death can occur. Do not water the plant until the top layer of soil dries out by 1-2 cm, remove the water from the pan. If the situation is critical, try drying the earthen ball. Take it out of the pot and place it on paper (to absorb moisture) in a warm and dry place. If you want to take care of the dracaena, it is better to spray it, but also without undue enthusiasm.
4. Wrong content after transplant. This often happens during the autumn-winter transplant. In a cool room, a weakened plant freezes. Place the dracaena closer to a warm battery, and so that it does not suffer from dry air, spray it, put containers of water next to it.

Yellowing and death of leaves

Yellow leaves and a slight leaf fall is normal in the first two weeks after transplantation. But if the fall of foliage intensifies further, measures must be taken. Yellowing is a sign of overflow or airtight soil. Reduce hydration. Change the soil if necessary.

The yellow leaves of the dracaena are a serious reason for the grower to think

If the dracaena leaves have brown and dry tips, dry air is most likely to blame. Spray the plant and humidify the air. Another reason is overfeeding dracaena. After transplantation, it should not be fed for 2-3 months. Everything you need is already in the ground, if it is properly composed.

The tips of the leaves turn black in a too cold room or when touched by cold window glass.

Dracaena dropped its leaves

Video: fix transplant errors

cuttings

Beauty palm trees do not reproduce easily and only by seeds. And the dracaena, so similar to a palm tree, is easy to grow from a cutting. Rooting lends itself to both tops and stem segments. Thus, you can not only get a new plant, but also rejuvenate the old one.

We plant cuttings

1. In an adult and healthy dracaena, with a sharp sterile knife, cut off the stalk by 3–5 cm: the top of the stem with leaves.

A plant without a top, too, do not disregard. Sprinkle the wound with coal and dry. Spray the plant with growth stimulants. After 3-4 weeks, new buds will begin to develop under the cut. Dracaena will get a second life.

The amazing vitality of the dracaena and its ability to reproduce formed the basis of the Aztec legend. According to it, the high priest, who did not want to give his daughter in marriage to a warrior, stuck a stick in the ground and said that if leaves did not appear on it in five days, there would be no wedding. And the groom promised to execute. The warrior began to water this stick. And on the fifth day, leaves grew on it - this is how the dracaena was born. The Aztecs call it the tree of happiness.

Dracaena is also propagated by stem segments up to 12 cm. Just don't confuse the top end with the bottom. Such cuttings take root in 2-3 weeks.

Some flower growers create original compositions by planting several young dracaena in one pot. So they look more magnificent. However, do not plant old and young dracaena together. An adult plant will not allow a teenager to develop.

Rooting cuttings of dracaena

Reviews of flower growers: beautiful, flexible, unpretentious

Dracaena is not a sissy. My cat dropped it from a shelf onto a table: a pot to smithereens, a dracaena with a crown into a laptop ... A lot of earth. fragments, broken leaves ... And the cat ate it repeatedly. All dracaena does not care.

About transplant. I usually put two pots in the bath - with a flower and a new one with a small layer of earth. Then I spill the flower pot with water, then I pry the ground with a small spatula, pull out the flower with a clod of earth - and immediately into the next pot. From above I fill up the earth, I tamp it down a little, I spill it with water as it should. I leave for 40 minutes in the bath so that the excess water is glass. All.

Olesya

http://www.woman.ru/rest/medley8/thread/4193523/

When transplanting dracaena, a prerequisite is that there should not be empty spaces in the roots, that is, the earth must be carefully distributed between the roots and on the roots during transplantation, so as not to rot, add charcoal powder, a little Fitosporin. It is not necessary to water immediately, there is already moisture in the new land, the first watering is in a couple of days. Drainage is essential - I have a 1/4 pot of Styrofoam. But I would remove all the shop ground, just soak the roots in a bucket of warm water for 5 minutes and rinse them. I personally have a bunch of earthworms popped up. After transplantation, every 10 days (3 times), the dracaena was sprayed with Epin's solution. The pot must necessarily be commensurate with the root rastuhi - otherwise everything will rot. I have a large pot, but half a pot of land, as it grows, I will add soil. It is impossible to deepen the trunk - only roots should be in the ground.

Oksana

http://eka-mama.ru/forum/part58/topic139865/?PAGEN_1=2

Too big pot is also not good. At least it's very easy to pour. I poured my favorite dracaena from great love thoroughly after transplantation. In a small pot, she simply swallowed water. And after transplanting into a large pot, out of habit, I also watered it abundantly. But how much land? and it keeps moisture. In the end, she hung all the leaves. I had to urgently change the land. Now she's slacked off. But the view is not what it used to be. So, if you transplant into a large pot, then you need to water it very carefully. Moreover, other dracaena, transplanted into the same pots, with the same root system, feel fine. I usually water them. I didn't try so hard.
If the roots stick out of the pot, they need to be replanted, as they begin to rot in the pan. I have verified this from personal experience.

http://homeflowers.ru/yabbse/index.php?showtopic=5583

My parents have a dracaena at least 10 years old. It was once brought from Spain in the form of a piece of a trunk. Once every couple of years, when it outgrows all possible sizes, it is mercilessly chopped into separate pieces that look like firewood. These firewoods are placed in cups of water and take root perfectly. The first time was also scary, but for so many years, almost all the shoots took root. Already half of the city, probably, our offspring are growing!

frekensnork

http://forum.ditenok.com/showthread.php?t=34842

It is no coincidence that dracaena has become one of the most popular plants. Its original leaves add a sophisticated style to any interior. And taking care of her is easy and pleasant. And even such a traumatic procedure as a transplant, patient dracaena endures with dignity. The main thing is not to disappoint this plant, do everything according to the rules.

Causes of drooping leaves in dracaena

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She does not need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye with its splendor and beauty for as long as possible, respond in time to any changes in its appearance. What do the drooping leaves of the dracaena say?

Why does dracaena release leaves

Let's analyze what causes this problem, and what needs to be done to solve it.

Why do dracaena drop leaves?

There may be several reasons:

2. improper watering;
3. not suitable for the size of the flowerpot;
4. nutrient deficiency;
5. lack of moisture;
6. drafts and disturbed temperature conditions;
7. the plant was frozen.

The soil should be moist, not damp. The plant is watered with settled water room temperature when the earth ball dries up by about 2 cm. Watering regime - 1-2 times a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter once a week is enough. So that excess moisture does not collect, does not stagnate in a flowerpot, pour expanded clay or coarse sand on its bottom with a layer of 3-4 cm, you can put shards. This material will play the role of drainage, which will save the root system of the flower from rotting. Overfilling is much worse than underfilling.

In the hot summer period, the flower needs to be sprayed. To wash off the dust and refresh it, we recommend putting the plant under the shower once a month, covering the ground with cellophane. After bathing the growing points of the leaves, blot with a tissue.

cramped pot

The second reason that the leaves are constantly lowered down may be the wrong size. flower pot. If it is small, then the nutrition of the plant is difficult. Roots need space. Check the tightness of their fit to the walls of the flowerpot. Repot the flower if necessary.

The diameter of the pot should be about half the height of the dracaena.

Every year its diameter can be increased by 1-2 cm.

Nutrient deficiency

The lower leaves may drop down due to insufficient nutrients. In a cramped pot, with a very developed root system, the earth quickly becomes poorer, the upper crown grows at the expense of the lower foliage. During the period of active growth from April to September, feed the roots with pre-selected fertilizers 1-2 times a month. When watering, you can use liquid fertilizers according to the instructions.

In order for oxygen to enter the root system, do not forget to loosen the soil surface to a depth of 1-2 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees. A fall below 15 degrees is already critical for her. Leaves may look drooping if you freeze the flower. First aid is a warm shower.

The flower loves moist air and does not tolerate drafts, so find a quiet place for it away from the radiator.

In a particularly hot period, you can put the flowerpot on a tray with water so that the bottom of the flowerpot does not come into contact with the surface of the water. Evaporating water humidifies the air.

About the reasons for the drying of dracaena leaves and about their methods





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Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is low on the horizon. The light must be evenly diffused. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. An evergreen palm up to 35 years old is considered young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. May your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

How to independently transplant a dracaena and avoid mistakes

When is a transplant needed?

How to transplant dracaena at home? First of all, it is necessary to decide in what period it is best to take a rejuvenating and stimulating flower growth procedure. The best time is late winter or early spring. Since the plant wakes up after hibernation, and its vital processes become more active, transplanting dracaena at home will be the least stressful for it.



To clearly understand in what cases it is necessary to take up the renewal of the soil mixture in a flower pot, select the following list for yourself:

8. it is recommended to transplant the dracaena into another pot if the rhizome has grown so much that it has filled the container, and its processes are even visible on the surface of the earthy coma. By updating the substrate and choosing a larger flower pot, you will create enough free space for your plant and stimulate the growth of the shrub;
9. transplanting dracaena after purchase is another requirement for a grower. Firstly, indoor flowers are sold in fragile plastic pots or planters that are not intended for long-term use. Secondly, you cannot be sure of the quality of the soil mixture and the absence of pests until you replace the substrate yourself;
10. planting a dracaena is also recommended if you have excessively flooded the soil with water, and the lowered leaves of the plant and its rotting on the face;
11. the soil for transplantation needs to be updated, since the substrate in which the indoor shrub grows has ceased to be nutritious. In addition, over time, the earth is heavily clogged and begins to poorly pass water and air;
12. when a plant is infected with pests, not only its treatment with insecticidal preparations will help, but also a transplant of a domestic palm tree.



Knowing how to plant a dracaena at home, and at what time is best to do it, you can achieve excellent results during the cultivation of shrubs.

What tools will be needed

To properly plant this home flower, you need to clearly know what devices will help you in your work. It is not enough to decide what size pot the dracaena needs. Among the tools and materials that should have at hand experienced florist, it is worth highlighting the following:

13. drainage;
14. high-quality soil mixture;
15. spray;
16. container with water;
17. scissors or secateurs.

Knowing how to transplant dracaena correctly, you stimulate your indoor shrub to even more active development.

Choosing the right pot

Perhaps you, as a beginner florist, can think about which pot to transplant the dracaena into. This point must be given due attention. It is believed that a ceramic flower pot is best suited for dracaena. What is good about this material is its culvert properties, which is priceless for your indoor flower.



If you wish, you can buy a plastic flowerpot. However, in this case, be prepared for the fact that the irrigation regime will have to be observed with great care. Water in a pot dries out a little longer than in a ceramic container, so in no case should the substrate be over-moistened. As for size, it is better to buy a pot that is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. It is impossible to plant a shrub in a container that is too spacious, since the plant will use all its strength to grow the rhizome, and not the stem part.

What soil is suitable

How to plant a dracaena and what kind of land this plant needs - it is advisable to find out these points in advance in order to avoid mistakes. Prepare the substrate for indoor shrubs yourself or buy a ready-made mixture for palm trees in a specialized store. If you decide to mix all the necessary components for the soil composition at home, you will need sod land, peat, leafy soil, and compost.

Step-by-step instruction

Let's find out how to transplant dracaena after purchase in stages. Even if you are going to carry out this kind of procedure for the first time, problems should not arise.



This process must include the following points:

18. about 3-4 days before transplanting, it is recommended to stop moistening the substrate;
19. at the bottom of the pot you purchased, you need to pour pebbles, expanded clay or crushed brick - this material will perform the function of drainage;
20. carefully inspect the root system of the flower, if necessary, cut off old or damaged root processes;
21. place the plant in a new flowerpot, cover the roots with soil mixture, and form a mound that is not too large around the stem - this way, water will flow down after watering.

To prevent the dracaena from dropping leaves after transplantation, be sure to provide competent care for the flower, especially at first.

Further care and rookie mistakes

In general, dracaena transplanted in spring or summer is cared for under the same conditions as before the procedure. Do not leave the flower in the sun, as the plant may get burned. It is recommended to moisten the substrate 3-4 times a week. Do not forget to also spray the leaves of the flower, as the plant loves moisture very much. Fertilizers need to be applied to the soil from time to time.



As for mistakes, even if they are made, they rarely lead to the death of the bush. However, buying a flower pot that is too large can cause the plant to wilt. The same can be said about waterlogging of the soil substrate. Create for the bush favorable conditions for growth, provide care for the dracaena, based on the basic recommendations of specialists, and the plant will develop to the fullest, and you will be able to replant the flower in the future without much effort.

Video "Dracaena transplant"

From this video you will learn how to properly transplant dracaena.

Rules for self-transplanting dracaena

Most flower growers consider dracaena one of the most beautiful indoor plants. Dracaena is able to decorate any interior due to its unusual and spectacular appearance. Like any other plant, it will require a transplant. This process can be carried out immediately after acquisition or after some time. A correctly performed transplant will help get rid of all sorts of problems associated with caring for dracaena.

Dracaena is one of the most beautiful ornamental deciduous plants. Most of them originated from the tropics. There are approximately 150 varieties of this plant, whose homeland is called tropical and subtropical Africa, as well as islands located in southeast Asia.

Regardless of the variety, dracaena requires a transplant from time to time. into a larger pot. The need for this arises due to the fact that the root system of the plant does not tolerate tightness. Young dracaena is recommended to be transplanted annually with the advent of spring. For a larger and adult dracaena, a transplant is needed as it grows. If there is no need to transplant the plant yet, in the spring the topmost layer of soil should be replaced with heavier soil.

It is generally accepted that in emergency situations, dracaena can be transplanted even in autumn, despite the fact that the plant is preparing for winter sleep. Under emergencies implies the threat of wilting or drying out due to an overly cramped pot, and the purchase of a young, new plant. After acquiring dracaena, transplantation must be done in a few weeks, regardless of the season. This is explained by the fact that in the store the plant is placed in small pots, with unsuitable soil, abundantly saturated with fertilizers designed to accelerate growth. All this can lead to the death of dracaena.

Of course, the transplantation of dracaena, carried out in the autumn, is the most stressful for a plant. A natural reaction to it will be the fall of the leaves or their yellowing. It must be remembered that any indoor flower, including dracaena, is categorically not recommended to be disturbed in the fall. It is at this time that preparations for wintering take place, and excess stress will cause the plant to deplete.

Before proceeding with the transplant, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the features characteristic of dracaena. By following simple rules, you can easily save yourself from the many problems associated with plant transplantation. The quality of the earth has a direct impact on the state of the flower, its growth, proper development. In this regard, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of soil in which the dracaena will be located.

The substrate, which has a direct impact on the further development, growth and health of the plant, plays one of the most important roles in transplanting dracaena. In general, this the flower is quite picky and is able to take any soil without problems. However, the most suitable option peat-containing land with an acidity index of 6.0-6.5 acts for the plant.

If you have to choose between a ready-made purchased substrate and a self-prepared mixture, it would be better to rely entirely on your own capabilities and feelings. The only exception to the rule is the use of sheet soil that was previously in the garden or in the garden. This type of soil should not be used for transplanting, since it contains a fairly large amount of mineral salts and fertilizers.

The most suitable option is a mixture prepared from leaf, compost, peat and sod land in the ratio 1:1:0.5:2. In order to prevent caking of the soil, it is also recommended to add about a quarter of a pot of river sand. If it was decided to purchase a ready-made substrate, you need to pay special attention to the presence of the necessary nutrients and trace elements in it.

How to choose a flower pot

To date, the attention of flower growers is presented huge assortment flower vases among which it is quite difficult to make the right choice. Almost every person, first of all, pays attention to pots that have the most attractive external characteristics. However, such containers may actually be unusable. In this regard, when choosing a new flower pot for dracaena, it is necessary to observe the following recommendations:

22. In order for the plant to please the eye for a long time, a new flowerpot should be chosen based on the size of the root system. For example, with a dracaena height of about 40 cm, the pot must be at least 15 cm in diameter.
23. The diameter of each subsequent flowerpot must be in diameter 2 or 3 cm more than the previous one. Biggest mistake For some novice flower lovers, it is the purchase of an oversized pot taken with a margin. In such a container, water will stagnate, having a detrimental effect on the health of the plant.
24. Most flower growers are convinced that a ceramic flowerpot is best suited for dracaena. They justify this opinion by the probability of a better supply of oxygen to the root system, obtained due to the porous structure of the container. At the same time, it is believed that the substrate dries out more evenly. In fact, as practice shows, in ordinary plastic pots, dracaena grows and develops no worse.
25. If the dracaena is old enough, it is better to choose stable shape flowerpot, with beaker-shaped outlines.
26. One of the prerequisites when choosing a pot is the presence of holes in the bottom, due to the fact that stagnant water in a soil coma can be fatal for dracaena.

The process of transplanting dracaena

On how correctly and in a timely manner the plant will be transplanted, its future life entirely depends. It is highly recommended not to do this in the autumn. With the advent of autumn, the flower is preparing for winter rest, and by violating this process, you can harm the dracaena.

For a transplant you will need:

27. A new flowerpot with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm larger than the previous one.
28. Store-bought soil or homemade soil.
29. Expanded clay or other drainage.
30. Sharp knife or pruner.
31. A vessel with water heated to room temperature.
32. Sprayer for water.

In a new flowerpot, processed in advance hot water, it is necessary to pour layer of prepared drainage. The height of this layer is determined by the presence of perforations in the bottom of the container. If there are no holes, then the thickness of the drainage should be increased, and if there is, then for a medium-sized pot, the height should be 2-3 cm. If there are areas of decay on the roots, they must be removed and the root system of the dracaena should be sprayed with a sprayer.

Dracaena should be placed in a new flowerpot and carefully fill the remaining space among the roots. Should not be allowed to appear in the root system air sacs. After finishing, for the speedy adaptation of the flower to the new soil, you should water it with a solution with fertilizers. In the future, dracaena should be moderately watered. At first, it is recommended to use zircon. Fertilizers will need to be applied twice a month. With a properly performed transplant, this dose should be sufficient.

When transplanting dracaena, special attention should be paid to the transition zone of the plant stem to the root collar. This place should not be excessively deepened into the ground, and the neck should be slightly sprinkled with earth. The soil is better to use light or medium density. Dracaena roots love the air. Most flower growers believe that the plant should be transplanted into store peat soil, however, it is too heavy. Best of all, the flower grows in a mixture of peat soil with coco soil or deciduous. In this case, the roots receive a sufficient amount of air and moisture.

After planting, the plant needs put in a quiet place so that no one touches him. It is important that it receives enough dim light. The most successful time for a transplant is:

33. late fall. Transplant overgrown color as needed.
34. early spring. A good time to transplant a young plant.

The flowerpot should be slightly larger than its predecessor, as the flower may die in a very large pot.

Plant transplant after purchase

Do I need to transplant the dracaena immediately after its acquisition? There is no single answer to this question. A younger plant is better leave in the same pot before the onset of spring. If there are doubts about the need for a transplant, it is recommended to choose a transshipment. At the same time, the dracaena with the earth is transferred to a larger pot and supplemented with new soil. After that, the plant must be fertilized with zircon.

If the purchased plant is planted in transport soil, then it must be transplanted into new soil, completely removing the old one.

Feeding dracaena after transplantation

After all procedures related to transplantation, dracaena takes a few weeks to adapt.. At this time, the root system is formed. In order for the process to go as quickly as possible, the plant must be watered with a liquid that stimulates root growth, but not more than twice a month. In general, the plant should be fed from March to November, once every few weeks. AT winter period top dressing should be done once a month, and the amount of active substance must be halved. Best fit universal fertilizer used for dracaena and palm trees.

Watering dracaena

The process of watering dracaena is no different from the usual. The only caveat is the need at first add zircon to the irrigation liquid.

So, transplanting dracaena is a fairly simple action that even a novice flower lover can handle.

- although this is not a very whimsical houseplant, nevertheless, it requires compliance with individual care rules: the appropriate temperature regime, humidity level, and so on. A critical violation of these rules can provoke various plant ailments, affecting not only appearance and which can lead to the death of dracaena. One of the common problems, the causes and solutions of which will be discussed below, is the drooping of the leaves of the plant, which usually grow upwards.

The main reasons why dracaena leaves fall

The most likely include:

1. Excessively cold temperature in the room (especially aggravated by drafts). The optimum temperature for plant growth and development is between 18 and 24°C above zero. Lower temperatures can cause the leaves to droop. In order to avoid this or to cope with the problem that has already appeared, it is required to remove the plant from the place where it can be blown by drafts, and also to create the optimal above-mentioned temperature regime in the room.
2. Excessive soil moisture. It can be provoked by frequent watering or an overly wide pot that contributes to moisture stagnation. To do this, two basic rules must be followed. The first is to avoid frequent watering and allow the soil to dry out between waterings, the second is to choose a pot deep enough, but small in diameter (for a plant up to 15 centimeters tall optimal diameter the pot is from 10 to 15 centimeters; the height of the pot is 12-15 centimeters).
3. lack of moisture for outer surface leaves. Dracaena receives part of the nutrition and moisture through the surface of the leaves. In this regard, once every two to three days, it is required to spray the leaves from a spray bottle with water at room temperature.
4. Lack of oxygen saturation. First of all, it is important to maintain the saturation of the soil with oxygen. For this, drainage is created when planting / transplanting dracaena. And also it is necessary to carry out periodic loosening of the soil.
5. Excessive use of fertilizers. For growth and development dracaena it is expedient to use organic fertilizers in small quantities - peat, manure, humus and so on. Mineral fertilizers can be completely abandoned and used only if there are symptoms of a particular dracaena disease due to a lack of certain nutrients.
6. Exposure to direct sunlight can also cause yellowing and leaf drop. dracaena. The plant loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight, which can contribute to the degradation and death of the plant. Dracaena should be in a lighted room, but not on the sunny side of the room.