When and how to transplant strawberries. Transplanting strawberries to a new place in spring, summer and autumn: timing and methods of reproduction When is it better to transplant strawberries and strawberries

Garden strawberries are considered one of the most unpretentious plants, many of its varieties are frost-resistant and not susceptible to diseases. However, it gives juicy large fruits only in the first five years of growth, after which it is necessary to transplant strawberries.

An accurate sign that indicates the need for seating is the presence of a large number of outlets around the main (uterine) bush. They take away most of the nutrients, reducing the amount of fruiting. But these same outlets can be planted in a new place and become full-fledged fruit-bearing bushes.

Plants are transferred to a new bed in almost any month - from June to October. But in spring or autumn, that is, until the fruit appears, it is optimal to do this.

The main goals of regular transplantation
Strawberry yield decreases already after 3 years of growth in one place, and after 5–6 years, the loss of nutrients increases significantly due to the large number of rosettes and the plant practically ceases to bear fruit. This is due to the fact that strawberries, located on one piece of soil for a long time, draw the necessary microelements and other nutrients from the soil. The depletion of the soil leads to the fact that the fruits become small, low-juicy, the number of new shoots decreases, the leaves may begin to turn yellow.

Experienced gardeners recommend moving the bushes to a new location every 3-4 years, based on the volume of the crop and the appearance of the plant. If there are fewer berries, their number decreases compared to previous seasons, the strawberries look sick, old, the leaves turn yellow, a transplant is definitely needed.

Every year, buds appear on the stems, releasing antennae. Branches serve for reproduction. Each new season, these stems "rise" up, exhausting the plant. During wintering, such a bush is more prone to freezing.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries?
Strawberry bushes are transplanted in almost any season from the beginning of summer until the end of the fruiting season, which, depending on the variety, occurs in September-October, as well as in spring. Moving to a new location during the flowering period should be avoided as this may reduce yield.

It is easiest to replant strawberries in autumn - the bush has given all the possible harvest, gradually enters a state of rest, preparing for wintering. However, it is impossible to say for sure whether the plant will take root. If strawberries are transferred to a new bed in the spring, it soon becomes clear which bushes have taken root, and the approximate volume of the future crop is determined. It is necessary to focus on winter hardiness, root strength and growth rate.

spring
It is better to transplant strawberries in the spring at the end of March and April, in the middle lane - until the end of May, in the northern regions - the last decade of May and until the first half of June. General rules for any climatic zones - when transplanting, the soil should completely thaw, and the air temperature should be above +10 ° C for several days. Plants tolerate small frosts well, so you will need to study the weather forecast

Spring transplantation is possible only by propagating the bush. The branch of shoots makes it possible to get the first, albeit small, harvest already this year.

The method of growing seedlings from seeds is also used, but this option is more laborious: seeds do not always sprout, and planted seedlings often do not take root, because they are very demanding on climatic conditions.

Summer
In the summer, it is best to transfer the bushes to a new bed in late July-early August. This is the optimal time for the middle lane and northern latitudes. By this time, a large number of new seedlings appear on the bushes with berries, they are strong enough to grow into a full-fledged bush.

The absence of frosts for at least 2-3 months after transplanting, cool wet weather at the onset of the autumn season will allow strawberries to grow quickly next year, take root well and grow before the first cold snap. This makes it possible to get a bountiful harvest at the beginning of the next season. In summer and early autumn, it is convenient to propagate plants by dividing, which is important for varieties that do not give tendrils.

When planting plants in the summer months, it is necessary to carefully monitor the weather. If the air temperature is high, there is no rain, the planted bushes may not take root.

Breeding varieties tolerate moving to a new place worse, they may not adapt before the onset of cold weather. For them, landing in the spring is preferable.

autumn
If properly replanted in the fall, strawberries will produce a bountiful harvest next year. These terms are optimal for the southern latitudes, where the temperature stays above zero until November. In addition, it is in autumn that the soil becomes wet, the air temperature drops, but there are still enough sunny days for good growth of rosettes.

A strawberry bed transplanted in the fall will survive frosts well. It is necessary to transfer the bushes 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that the shoots have time to take root and grow stronger.

Terms of transplantation of remontant varieties
Such strawberries, which produce two harvests in one season, are best transferred to a new growing place in May or late July, when frost is not expected. You can propagate this variety with a mustache, division, or grow seedlings from seeds. Reproduction by young shoots is considered the easiest way, but this method does not allow you to get a crop in the first year.

There are also several types of remontant strawberries, some give new shoots, while others do not. Beardless varieties have several advantages - they are more resistant to diseases, unpretentious to the place of seedlings and weather conditions, ripen even on darkened beds, do not require transplantation up to 5–6 years without reducing the yield

How to transplant strawberries
The simplest, suitable even for beginner summer residents, methods of strawberry seedlings are dividing the bush and propagating with young shoots (whiskers). Growing seedlings of this plant from seeds is more laborious, requires certain skills and suitable temperature conditions, but it makes it possible to try the first crop in the planting season.

By dividing the bush
Most often, dividing the bush propagates plants that do not have antennae. But this method is suitable for almost any variety. This option has several advantages:

Rooting of seedlings is up to 90%;
transplantation can be performed after harvest, that is, in the fall;
it is possible to renew the beds all season from April to October;
yields are increased by selecting healthy, sturdy rosettes that have already produced fruit this season.
To get started, select the strongest healthy uterine bushes. Then dig out the outlet, remove the dry leaves, clean the ground from the roots. Put the plants in water and divide the bush into separate horns. Cut off dried roots, remove flower stalks.

In humid regions, it makes sense to cut off half a leaf from each plant, which will reduce the evaporation of moisture after planting.

After that, the bushes are sent for growing in pots. Fill a container 8-10 cm in diameter with earth and peat in a ratio of 1: 1, place a bush in the center, sprinkle with soil, water and plant in a greenhouse after 1.5 months. After 3-6 weeks, depending on the appearance of the plant, transplant the strawberries into a permanent bed. For each square meter, 5 kg of humus is added, acidic earth must be balanced with dolomite flour (0.5 kg per square meter).

Rooted mustache
From young antennae, a transplant is carried out when the soil is sufficiently moist, the temperature does not rise more than +25 degrees. This method can be used in spring and summer, as well as in early autumn.

The largest number of mustaches appears from mid-July to September. They are already resistant to frost, seedlings quickly take root in the ground and are able to survive even a cold snowy winter.

Mustaches can be planted in separate containers and open ground. Shoots are introduced into the soil after preliminary loosening. In pots or jars, earth is used with the addition of fertilizers. Rosettes are cut from the bush 2 weeks before transplanting.

For strawberries, choose well-lit, windless beds. The plant develops fastest after legumes and nightshade crops, they are considered the best predecessors.

Preparatory work
The quality of the preparation of strawberries for transplanting to a new place depends on what crop the gardener will be able to get next year and whether new seedlings will take root at all.

Choosing a place and preparing beds
Optimal for strawberries is a plot of land with a slight slope. The main thing is that the bed is protected from the cold wind, the illumination is oriented to the east or west. Not suitable for this plant is a shady area, places with high soil moisture. Also, bushes are not planted on hills, where there is high dryness of the soil and rapid evaporation of water.

Peaty, clayey, podzolic and acidic soils are considered unsuitable. It is necessary to prepare the soil two weeks before the start of the transplant, and if it is carried out in the spring, then the bed should be formed before the onset of cold weather in the previous autumn.

After digging, top dressing is carried out with compost, manure, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, and abundant watering is carried out. The ridge should not exceed 50 cm in width, the distance between the planting holes should be at least 30 cm.

Selection and processing of planting material
Transplantation is performed on a non-solar cool day. An hour before planting in the soil, the bed is watered. It is better to use a solution of humus at room temperature. For two hours, the roots are soaked in various infusions:

Ready growth stimulator;
herbal sourdough based on legumes, nettle and double superphosphate;
garlic solution.
For transplantation, you can take bushes that have at least three healthy and strong leaves, the root system is not dried, its length does not exceed 12 cm. There should be no rot on the roots. If they are longer than the norm, cut with scissors.

When transplanting with antennae, strong, developed rosettes are chosen; in the spring, the ovaries are completely cut off. For 2 weeks, it is necessary to divide the shoot with scissors, which connects the uterine bush and the rooted outlet

Landing technology
It is necessary to transplant garden strawberries in summer and autumn according to a certain scheme:

Bushes are planted in the prepared bed at a minimum distance of 30 cm from each other. When planting closer, they will not have enough space for rooting, there may be a lack of nutrients for good nutrition.
If you are transplanting with rosettes, do not dig them out in advance so that the root system does not begin to dry out. Immediately transfer the antennae to the prepared hole.
Pour water into a small hole, place a bush, sprinkle with soil, gently press with your hands and immediately pour abundantly.
In hot weather, the excavated rosette or part of the bush, if you use the division method, must be placed in a solution that consists of manure, clay and plain water. Top dressing will help the root system recover.
With a spring transplant, the depth and landing pattern is different:

The air temperature during the work should not be lower than 6 degrees Celsius.
Dig up a bed, free it from debris and roots of previous crops, feed and moisten.
For uniform illumination of future plants, choose a site directed to the east-west. Groundwater should be below one and a half meters.
Make the beds small, a maximum of 50 cm wide and 20 cm high.
The day before planting, moisten the soil, and before starting work, pour sand into each hole about 10 cm high, fill it with warm water.
Place the dug out outlet, sprinkle with soil, after straightening the roots, pour at least 3 liters of water at room temperature into each well.
Around the bush, fertilize based on peat or humus.
If the weather is hot at the time of work, darken the area for several days until the bush takes root.

When using any method of transplanting, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions in your area - how often precipitation falls, how long the warm season is, when the first frosts occur on average. Planted rosettes or parts of a bush, as well as seedlings obtained from seeds, must get stronger and take root in order to bear fruit abundantly

It grows well, develops and gives a rich harvest of strawberries (garden strawberries) only for the first three years. After that, the bushes grow, and the soil under the plants is depleted. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant strawberries to a new bed at least once every 3 years. When it is better and how to transplant strawberries to another place, we will understand in our article.

Strawberry transplantation can be done in spring, summer and autumn. But in order to harvest berries both this year and next year, experienced gardeners recommend replanting in early September, after all the fruits have been harvested. In the southern regions, transplantation can be done even in October. The most important thing is that the plants have time to take root and get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

The best time to transplant strawberries in the summer is in August, two weeks after fruiting. On hot July days, it is better not to engage in planting, as the leaves of the transplanted plants will strongly evaporate moisture, and the roots will not receive enough nutrition. As a result, the bushes will take root for a long time, and if they are not regularly (almost every day) watered, they will dry out.

That is why strawberries are transplanted in August and early September, when there is no longer a strong heat, and it rains regularly.

Preparing a bed for strawberries

For planting strawberries in the spring, the beds are prepared in the fall, and for transplanting bushes in the summer and autumn, the soil is dug up and fertilized in the spring or two months before the procedure.

Soddy and humus soil is simply dug up and fertilized, and baking powder is added to medium loamy soil. Peat is used as a baking powder, a glass of ash is added to a bucket of it.

Instead of peat, you can loosen the ground with small sawdust, humus or soddy soil.

Soil preparation:

The bed is cleared of debris and weeds.
Be sure to carry out the procedure for disinfecting the soil, in which there may be pathogens and pest larvae. To do this, you can use copper preparations or Fitosporin according to the instructions.
The earth is dug up and fertilized. For every 10 square meters of beds, add half a kilogram of nitrogen-containing fertilizers and potassium salt, a kilogram of superphosphate and about 10 buckets of humus (8 kg of humus or compost per 1 sq. M).

When the soil is ready, you can form beds, which can be of different types. You can grow strawberries not only in the beds, but also .

Experienced gardeners grow strawberries in German beds and under agrofibre. But the easiest way is to build simple, not very wide beds.

Easy way to land

Beds are made for strawberries, the width of which depends on the number of rows. To make it easier to take care of the plants, they are planted in two rows with a distance of 30-40 cm. The same distance should be between the planted bushes. The row itself with planted strawberries should be at least 20 cm wide.

The rows of plantings are separated by furrows about 20 cm deep. Excess water will drain into these furrows, which can collect in the garden after prolonged rains.

Planting strawberries under agrofibre

This method of growing strawberries will greatly facilitate the care of plants, since weeds and mustaches do not grow under the agrofibre. Also, pests that can significantly harm plants do not enter the ground from the outside.

Agrofibre can be bought at a specialized store. The bed is made in the usual way, they dig holes for planting strawberries and cover with material. Agrofibre is fixed with metal studs or staples. The studs are located at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other.

In places where bushes will grow, cuts are made on the cross, after which the corners are turned away. Now you can plant strawberries not very deep. After planting, the plants must be watered.

Low German beds

Recently, low beds with fences, which are called German, have become popular. They are made from 40 to 80 cm wide, and fences are made of asbestos-cement flat sheets, bricks or ordinary boards. Strawberries are planted on such beds with a distance of 40 cm.

How to make a German low bed for planting strawberries:

A trench 40 cm deep is dug, which is filled with long-rotting material (wood, sawdust or shavings).
Ready-made nutrient soil is poured on top of sawdust or other material, into which all fertilizers and humus have already been added.
The soil is leveled with a rake and holes can be made.

To make it convenient to walk between German strawberry beds, you can dig furrows and lay them out with pebbles, stones or bricks.

Transplanting and dividing strawberry bushes

In order for strawberries to quickly and well take root in a new place, when transplanting it, the following rules must be observed:

Bushes need to be dug with an earthy clod so as not to damage the roots.

Plants are placed in a wide basin or other container and processed. Dried and diseased leaves, as well as all mustaches, should be cut off from them.

The container is filled with water so that the earth on the roots gets wet, and the bush can be easily divided.

When the soil becomes wet, the bushes are separated from the mother plant. Each division should have well developed roots and an apical bud.

On each bush, 2 fresh central stems with two or three leaves are left. The remaining leaves, old roots and flower stalks are cut off.

So that moisture does not evaporate through the leaves, and the plants take root well, the remaining leaves are cut in half.

For better survival, strawberry roots are also treated with Epin or Kornevin.

Divided and treated seedlings can be planted in pre-prepared and well-watered holes.

The seedlings are placed in the holes, the roots are straightened and covered with a nutritious soil mixture. You need to make sure that the heart of the bush remains above the ground, but not too high.

Plantings are watered, and the soil is sprinkled with mulch.

It is best to plant strawberries in the evening so that the roots have enough moisture. If you plant plants in the morning, in hot weather during the day, a large amount of water from the soil and through the leaves will evaporate, and the bushes will wilt.

Do not forget to regularly water strawberry plantings at first, especially if there is no rain. And with the onset of cold weather, young plants must take cover, otherwise they can freeze out in winter.

Strawberries are often called fidget berries. If it grows for a long time in one place, then it grows old and ceases to bear fruit. Her main whim is a transplant. It needs to be repotted every 4 years. In order to achieve maximum yields, you must first figure out where and how to transplant.

What fertilizers are needed

The main nutritional components of strawberries are: phosphorus (P), potassium (K), nitrogen (N 2), calcium (Ca). The most important trace elements are boron (B) and magnesium (Mg).

Nitrogen- an indispensable element for the formation of the plant in question, as, indeed, any other. Its lack is a slowdown in the growth and formation of a bush. Strawberry leaves turn red. This berry prefers potassium nitrate. Do not fertilize just before planting. Important: nitrogen reduces the transportability of berries. Do not feed the plant with it during spring transplantation. Nitrogen fertilizers are introduced only until mid-August.
Phosphorus. It is quite enough in black soil. When deficient, the leaves become dark green. It is very important that it be in sufficient quantity after transplantation.
Potassium. His plant can borrow from the soil. An excess of potassium fertilizers will lead to a lack of magnesium. Remember: inexpensive potash fertilizers contain chlorine in their composition, and it negatively affects strawberries.
Calcium It is an essential component for plant cell walls. Deficiency affects the density of berries, the tips of the leaves are brown.
Boron and magnesium, other trace elements strawberries are needed in small quantities, but their presence is mandatory. In case of deficiency, complex fertilizers can be used.

Everyone's favorite is strawberries. Care, transplantation are important processes. Although you have to tinker with the berry, it always responds with generous harvests to skillful and hard-working hands.

A big harvest of strawberries is a real reward for a gardener for all his work. Strawberries are often called fidget berries. If it grows for a long time in one place, then it grows old and ceases to bear fruit. Her main whim is a transplant. Experienced gardeners know that abundant fruiting of berries occurs in the second and third year of transplantation. If this procedure is not carried out, the berries will be crushed, and the culture itself will degenerate in a few years. In this article, we will tell you how strawberries are transplanted in the fall.

Why is it necessary to transplant strawberries to a new place

Developing, the bush grows on the sides, forming new horns. At about the 4th year of life (depending on the variety), its yield decreases, the plant spends all its vitality on growing in width. If it is not transplanted, then it will completely cease to bear fruit. However, you need to know in which month it is recommended to transplant and how to fertilize the plant.

What are the best varieties of strawberries

The following are considered the best breeding varieties: Amber, Atlantis, Kyiv, Present, Rosana, Hercules, Desna.

Of the foreign varieties, Selva, Everest, Korona, Zenga, Honey, etc. are most valued. Each of the listed varieties has its own aroma, taste, ripening period, pluses and minuses.

When choosing a variety, the size of the berry plays an important role:

Large berries give varieties Krymson, Stark, Vikant, Chamora-Turusi, King.
An oblong berry in the Divnaya variety. Fan-like - at Chemi-Grante.
Heart-shaped - at Pegasus. Round - at the Black Prince.

Separate varieties (Vikat) do not give antennae at all, so they can grow in the same area for a long time. For the successful cultivation of this delicious berry, choose three different varieties, but with different fruiting periods, this will be enough.

Transplant dates for strawberries in the fall

Every summer resident is well aware of the importance of regularly transplanting strawberries to a new place. If the bushes are not transplanted for a long time, then the yield will decrease significantly. According to summer residents, strawberries older than 4 years do not bear fruit well or there are no berries on it at all. The reason is that plants older than 3 years old begin to get sick, the soil in the garden is depleted, and pests can completely destroy strawberries.

Autumn planting of garden strawberries is divided into 3 types:

early - from August 15 to September 15;
medium - the last days of September and the beginning of October;
late - 30 days before the first frost.

To choose the optimal time for transplanting strawberry bushes, it is necessary to take into account the main cycles of crop development. Most varieties of strawberries sprout tendrils at the beginning of the summer period, full rooting of the plant occurs in the middle of the summer season, and buds form in early autumn. Such nuances will help in the future to determine the time of planting strawberries.

Criteria for choosing a strawberry bush for an autumn transplant

It must meet the following criteria:

The leaves have a rich green color, dots, spots, dryness are not allowed.
Horn. The thickness of the seedling horn should not be less than 7 mm.
The bush has an elastic, strong middle of green color.
Roots. For open seedlings, the length of the roots should be 5-7 cm. If you take strawberries in a peat pot, then the roots should stick out at the bottom of the holes in the pot. If you choose seedlings in plastic cups, then the roots should be all over the volume of the glass.

As you understand, this is the sequence of seedling selection when buying in nurseries and greenhouses. But often friends and neighbors exchange different bushes and varieties of strawberries. In this case, an inspection should be carried out according to the same criteria and the best samples should be selected.

Choosing a site for the autumn strawberry transplant

Strawberry plants will not be too comfortable in cold swampy lowlands or on hot southern slopes. If groundwater is close, the beds are raised. On hilly terrain, terraces are arranged across the slope, preventing soil erosion.

Strawberry shade tolerance is a myth. Large-fruited varieties give a solid harvest and suffer less from gray rot only in well-lit places.

The best place to place strawberries is a cultivated pillar after uprooting a deciduous forest. But such an opportunity falls to gardeners not so often.

Rules for transplanting strawberries in the fall

To get a crop next year, two-year-old seedlings are used for transplantation. How to replant strawberries in autumn: Choose seedlings with well-developed roots, at least 5 cm, and the presence of 4-5 leaves per bush. Old bushes do not transfer to a new place. If you use purchased seedlings, you must disinfect them. To do this, the roots are immersed in hot water (about 50ºС) for 15 minutes, then soaked for 10 minutes in cold water. To increase the chances of survival, the roots are wrapped in a mixture of clay, manure and water. Immediately after planting, seedlings must be watered with water at a temperature not lower than 15ºС. After planting, apply mulch in the form of straw or sawdust. The distance between the bushes should be about 25 cm, between the beds about 80 cm.

Autumn strawberry care

Let's not forget about top dressing, for successful adaptation and wintering, plants need nutrients that are contained in humus. It will take 8-9 kilograms per 1 square meter. Superphosphates - 80 grams, and potassium salt - 50 grams per square meter will not interfere. Fertilizers are best applied during soil preparation for transplantation or after work has been completed.

In order for strawberries to be better accepted and prepared for winter, you need to take care of them - loosen the ground, water, remove weeds, and carry out pest control.

The first 7-10 days, watering is carried out every other day, then their number is reduced, but the soil should not dry out. It is desirable to water under the roots so that drops of water do not fall on the leaves.

Antennae, which may already appear in a new place, are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation of new plants. Now he faces other tasks - to strengthen the roots and stems for a successful wintering.

If the winters in your area are snowy, after a sufficient amount of precipitation falls at the beginning of winter, the plantations are additionally sprinkled with snow collected from other sites. If there is no snow, and the frosts are severe, shelter is indispensable. For this, it is best to take a pine spruce branch. It is not advisable to use straw or hay - mice start up in them, besides, they cake under the snow, and prevent air from penetrating to the roots.

Rules for the correct transplantation of strawberries

Transplant only young sockets, which are advisable to take from a two-year-old bush.
The best time is the first month of the autumn period or in the spring, before the plant begins to bloom.
Soil choose fertile, with low acidity, away from direct sunlight.
It is necessary to fertilize the soil in a few months, first dig and pull out all weeds.
To make the plant take root faster, soak the root and stem in a solution of clay, manure and water.
Plant strawberries at a distance from each other, as they will grow and need a lot of space.
Before and after planting, the wells are moistened with water. Then fall asleep with mulch. To do this, you can use sawdust, peat, hay or any mulch material.

Undoubtedly, each of us dreams that our labor is not in vain. I, as a person who annually receives a large amount of a good harvest of strawberries, is ready to reveal some of the secrets of my gardening. One of them is the correct strawberry transplant in the fall. What we will talk about in this article.

A feature of the strawberry crop is that after 3-4 years of fruiting in the same place, its yield decreases. The berries become small, and there is an accumulation of fungi and bacteria in the soil. In order for the culture not to degenerate, the plant should be transplanted in a timely manner.

Transplantation can be made at any time, except for winter. Experienced gardeners consider autumn to be the best option. In September, you can already transplant strawberries. However, each region should focus on its own climatic conditions. In warm places, you can wait until October.

Pros of transplanting in the fall:

Abundance of seedlings.
Rains contribute to the moistening of the earth, thereby rooting the plant.
Lack of bright sunlight.
The temperature is dropping, but the ground is still warm.
The seedling has enough time to get stronger and grow leaves before frost.

If you transplant strawberries in the fall, next year you can already expect a small harvest.

An obstacle to settling down for young animals may be the early onset of frost or a snowless winter. But there is no reason to be upset, most seedlings survive, and the dead can be replaced in the spring with new ones. When transplanting in the spring, fruiting should not be expected.

It is forbidden to plant strawberries on a hot or rainy day. The next day after a little rain would be ideal. Also, seedlings will receive a negative effect from the sun's rays if the transplant is in the morning. Gardeners recommend transplanting either in the evening or during the day in cloudy weather.

Landing place

Particular attention should be paid to finding a new site for planting young bushes. Strawberries are not whimsical to the ground and will grow in almost any area. The soil, in the chosen place, should be treated for pests and fertilized with nutrients.

siderates

Green manure is grown to improve the soil. Promote the development of beneficial microorganisms, help get rid of some pathogenic microbes. These include: mustard, buckwheat, rapeseed, oats.

Greens and legumes

Growing greens does not require a lot of minerals, which helps to avoid soil depletion. Legumes saturate the soil with nitrogen.

Onion and garlic

They do not have common diseases and pests.

Carrot, radish and radish

The plants presented above will perfectly prepare the soil for planting strawberry bushes. However, one should not forget about crops in which planting is not recommended. These include zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage and plants from the nightshade family (potatoes, tomatoes).

These plants have common pests that remain in the ground. If it is not possible to transplant to a more suitable place, the soil should be treated with fungicides.

It is better to place the beds on a site with a slight slope so that there is no moisture in the pits. Also a plus would be an open sunny place, protected from the wind. In the shade, the berry grows more slowly and the taste will not be expressive.

planting material

A good harvest of berries in a new place directly depends on the right seedlings. Selection is best done after harvest. By this time, the strawberries are already fading and the process of ejection of the antennae with rosettes begins.

Choose sockets growing near the mother bush, they will be the best option. When the first two rosettes take root, subsequent mustaches must be removed to avoid exhaustion of the bush. You can choose the option of rooting both in the garden and in a separate container.

You should pay attention to bushes with higher yields and an age of two or three years. From bushes older offspring will give a low yield.

When choosing a seedling, look at the root system. If the root is well developed, then a weak rosette will not prevent the seedling from quickly taking root.

And now about the appearance of the planting material. Dense core. At least three leaves with short roots on a bush. Lobe of roots in length more than 5 cm.

Transfer

The soil for planting in the fall is prepared in advance. The site must be dug up and cleared of weeds. At the same time, the tops from legumes are useful as bedding for berries. For each square meter of the plot, organic fertilizer (10 kg), potassium sulfate (20 g) and superphosphate (60 g) are used.

Before planting, the roots of the bushes can be placed in a container with a growth stimulator diluted in water. Remove the leaves, leaving only 3-4 pieces. This will contribute to a more successful development of the bush.

Step-by-step instruction:

We prepare the garden. The distance between the bushes should be more than 25 cm. Do not plant different varieties of strawberries near.
We dig a hole. The hole should not be deep. Approximately large enough for the root to fit comfortably. Fill the hole with water to the brim.
We plant a bush. We lower and lean the seedling against the vertical wall of the hole so that the core is parallel to the ground level (Fig. 1). We sprinkle the roots of the plant with earth and gently tamp with our fingers.
We pour water.
We mulch the bed with straw.

Subject to all conditions and proper further care, the bush fully takes root in 2 weeks.

You can visually see the transplant process in the link to the video, which is located below.

Aftercare

The transplanted bushes certainly need care, it will not cause great difficulties. Basically, this is regular watering.

Basic moments:

After planting, you must immediately loosen the soil.
It is better to water the young growth a little every day, excluding rainy weather.
If after a week some seedlings have died, you can plant new ones.

Properly transplanted strawberries in the fall will provide you with a good harvest for several years. The main thing is to follow the advice and not skip important steps of the procedure.