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Remote raspberry varieties for Kuban. Growing raspberry as a business

04.09.2017 15 641

Landing raspberries in the fall - calculate top dates and methods

Landing raspberries in the fall will allow you to get a delicious harvest next year. But it is worth considering the terms and time, the quality of planting material and other factors. It has great importance to which depth is the rooting, therefore, only the right set of events will lead you to success ...

Terms of landing raspberry and methods

Landing raspberries in autumn - optimal time for its reproduction, according to many gardeners and gardeners. At this time, shoots time to take care and grasp the onset of cold weather, and a hot dry period, as it happens with spring transplants, they do not threaten.

Start work not earlier than replacement kidneys will appear on the root neck. W. early grades Raspberries this happens in September, late - by October. Complete the raspberry transplant one month before frost. Heat-loving varieties are better not to transplanted in winter.

Landing deadlines of raspberries depend on the climatic conditions of each region. Important factor - Weather. If autumn is warm, then in the Urals and in Siberia, you can disassemble raspberries in early September, but with bad weather, it is better to postpone this process until spring - a shrub can freeze.

In the suburbs and in the whole middle lane Russia can not be afraid of such force majeure, so the landing of raspberries in the fall of the future spring will bring the first crop. In the south, for example, in Kuban or Ukraine, the raspberries from the end of September and until the end of October. With good weather, it is possible until mid-November. Before winter, the seedlings will have time to take care and the next year will become full escapes. - Not such a complex process, as it may seem at first glance, the main thing is to follow a clear instruction.

Time garden work It can move depending on weather conditions. Malina breeds with weathered and green siblings, root and green cuttings, the division of the bush. Root offspring separated from the bush and thus get planting material. Best Saplings - 8-10 cm high, with a well-developed rhizome urine.

You can transplant green cuttings. Then, in the spring, they are temporarily added to the garden, they grow up and the developed annual shoots are obtained by autumn, which are planted on permanent place, A. next year Already get the first harvest.

Plant with raspberry root cuttings is convenient if you want to avoid diseases often affecting the stems. Pumping root digging, divide it on 10-centimeter segments, plant on a separate bed and grind stalks growing from the kidneys on the roots.

Landing raspberries in the fall - prepare the plot

The Malinnik grows well in the southern part of the garden, and the south-west side is suitable, but, before the buildings should be at least one meter. Malina is a sunny berry, it does not like cold drafts and shadows. You can put raspberries along the fence, then she gets protection from wind and is more reliable to be snowing.

The culture of the moisture is why it feels bad on dry slopes, on which water is not delayed. Earth should not strongly dispel, but the swampy terrain is also not suitable. The depth of groundwater is allowed not higher than meters.

Malina loves black soil, light turf-podzolic soils. Salted and turf sampling soils, but the sandy require an annual fertilizer with an organic. Worst of all suitable heavy loam.

The best raspberry predecessors - gooseberry, currant, cucumbers, onions, garlic, bahch culture, legumes. It is impossible to plant raspberries on the site of strawberries or grated: tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, they are undesirable and as the neighbors of Malinnik.

If you grow raspberries from several varieties, the crop is always higher. Prepare the soil on the site: Speak, remove weeds. High acidity needs to be reduced by making harees in a couple of years before the planned raspberry landing. TO clay soil Add humid or compost. Peat ground is recommended to dilute sand in the amount of 4 buckets on square meter.

Feature the soil - on the square meter, make a humid or compost - 5-6 kg, superphosphate - 50-60 grams or phosphorus - 20 grams, as well as sulfate potassium - 50 gr or potassium - 25 gr. You can replace the fertilizer ashes - 100 grams per square meter. Make all two months before disembarking bushes. Note that the removable varieties require fertilizers two times more.

Autumn planting of bushes

For landing of raspberries in the fall, only the most powerful shoots - annual processes that have grown from the roots, from the apparent kidneys are suitable. The thickness of the main root of a seedling should be at least a centimeter, the length of the roots is at least 15 cm. If you bought a plant, then in front of the landing, hold a couple of hours of roots in the water, adding the root formation stimulator (heteroacexin, corneser, etc.). If you transplant your raspberry, try to dig a seedling with a lump of land, not traumating the root system.

Landing raspberry in the fall is held different ways. The bush scheme involves landing in the pit rows, the interval between which is 2 meters. Soothes in the rows are planted after 1 meter, you can two seedlings in each hole.

For ribbon scheme Plants are often planted, at a distance of 0.5 m or even 0.3 m in a row, and as it is developed a solid wall, or a tape. It happens with a width of 45 cm, and if you give it to grow up - about a meter. If the tapes are somewhat, between them, observe the interval of 2 m. The culture planted with a tape method faster, but it is more difficult for it to care.

It is convenient to use the trench option to plant the raspberry - moisture accumulates in the deepening and feeds the roots. But, if you go close groundwater, for raspberries, on the contrary, arrange high beds.

The trench is digged by half the width and the same approximately depth. Abundantly shedding with water, half rods are put in every hole, 50 Gy of superphosphate, sulfate potassium and wood ash And begin to land.

What depth to planting raspberries? The roots are immersed in the well, so that the kidney at the base of escape is slightly lower than the level of the Earth. A strong blowout slows down the development of the plant, and with small landing, roasting kidneys can dry and freeze.

The roots fall asleep soil, not leaving underground emptiness, otherwise they can freeze. Watch that they do not look out over soil. Each bush watered a bucket of water. The shoots are tied up to the stoles or trellis. The branches on seedlings are cut, leaving only one 20-centimeter barrel.

The surface of the soil is mulched by straw, humus, pine bark or sawdust. Mulch does not give evaporate moisture, prevents the soil overheating, prevents the development of weeds and pests.

How to plant a raspberry so that it does not grow up? Her roots in the first year apply to the meter from the landing point, and to limit the Malinnik, create a border at this distance - for example, from the covered vertically at a depth of 30 cm slices.

Malina is a rather "plastic" plant and can successfully multiply both in spring and autumn. Even during the summer it can be searched if the vegetation passed with a closed root system. But how to put raspberries in the fall, and what is the priority of autumn landing, you will now learn. Let's say a few words about the remote form and other moments of cultivation of the Malinnik.

Priority of autumn landing

The deadline for planting malinous bushes depends on their varietality, but the overwhelming majority of species are perfectly transferred to this procedure in autumn. We will give a few different arguments in favor of the fact that the landing of raspberries in the fall is more appropriate:

  1. after fruiting, the culture is preparing for overgrims and strengthens the rhizome;
  2. to autumn period It is possible to prepare a larger number of corvescobal cuttings;
  3. in the spring, the plant rushes its strength on the growing shoots, and the underdeveloped root is not able to provide ground-based part of the necessary substances;
  4. autumn time is characterized by a more well-established climate, and 80% of air humidity has a beneficial effect on the survival rate;
  5. more chances for 1.5-2 months to prepare planting place, Increased time at the procedure itself (from mid-August to the beginning of October).

The raspberry transplant is well in southern regions and in the middle of Russia. Spring is recommended to plant crop in the northern regions due to the rapid onset of cold weather. After all, any plant requires time and heat for rooting. You can land raspberries in any period since mid-august up to frosts, or rather, 20 days before their offensive. This time is quite enough to root a seedling. We choose a cloudy or rainy day, and boldly disappointly sprinkled branches with roots. When to plant raspberries in autumn you will be prompted by two distinctive factor:

  1. lack of berries on branches;
  2. formed kidneys in the growth zone of leaves;
  3. yellow foliage.

If you bought the boarding material or slipped your seedlings, but the circumstances have changed, and you could not put the landing, then we make the drawing. Such storage will save the roots of escapes from drying and retain their livelihoods until the spring landing. I dig a hole at 50-60 cm depth with a slope and put the yeast of shoots into it. The roots put in the middle of the pits, and we apply the branches to the slope. I fall asleep on top of the earth and water. Next, we build a small holmik from the earth for insulation, and we are covered with a snack or dry leaves from above and leave until spring.

We choose landing material

The raspberry transplantation must be accompanied by a competent choice of seedlings. Experienced gardeners recommend that you choose not thick branches with large quantity Kidney (10 or more), and medium thickness and even thin shoots with 3-4 kidneys. If the branches are long, then they are cut up to 35 cm from the root neck. The root system must be urine and well developed. Rided stems should not exceed three pieces on one bush. Landing raspberries in the fall may consist of its own seedlings. There is a "nettle" method of dispersion. The young processes of 20-25 cm high in early June are digging with roots and planted at a permanent place, richly shedding with water. The processes are better to choose from the aisle so as not to disturb the shrub.

Another way is to shine. At the end of May or beginning of June, the side branches cut off and placed in pre-prepared wells under a slight inclination. After falling asleep, they are abundantly watered. So that the water does not leave by, make a small deepening at the landing place, and mulch in order to avoid moisture loss. Also, youngs are additionally inferred by branches or translucent nonwoven material. Some gardeners prefer to pre-pump trimming in tanks with water waiting for the rustling of roots. If you want to grow a certain variety, and the planting material is missing, then go root cuttings Or cropping the roots of the desired variety. In the fall, during the digging of young or removal of old spiders, the roots are selected from 3 to five 5 mm and cut down 10-15 cm long. They are placed in a box with sand, moisturize and put in the underground for the winter, and plant sites in the spring.

In order to correctly transplant the raspberry from the root cuttings in the spring, it is necessary to prepare space for the fall. The planting soil is leaving along with humus. Better, if it is in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Unfurred land fertilize a mixture of peat and sand in the following proportion:

  • peat 2 parts;
  • sand 1 part;
  • earth 1 part.

Choose a landing place

How to put raspberries in the fall, so that she felt comfortably and pleased with the harvest? Abundant fruiting depends on the competent location of the Malinnik. Since the plant does not like winds, drafts and concealed places, the southern side of fences, walls of houses and fences will be the ideal option For putting it off.

Tip! "So that your landing does not grow up for the borders of the permitted, sorrel plant on the edges of the Malnique. He will create a certain barrier for further germination of the roots. "

If you want to locate in the center of the plot, then consider the fact that this culture loves the maiden solstice and afternoon shading. Someone decides to increase the yield with the help of the location of the landing series from the south to the north. Other gardeners at the time of the heat shall provide landings by cultivating a number of other tall cultures, such as: Sunflower, Topinambur, Amaranth, Corn, etc.

Like many other cultures, Malina loves fertile soils, preferably prepared by the Siderats: Rye, Lupine, mustard and others. If you do not have such a possibility, then the roots of seedlings make a fertile layer created from organic and mineral fertilizers. Compost is an excellent feeding and introduced both in the preparation of the soil and directly under the root. Suglining and sampling soil contribute to competent plant cultivation. The lack of soil is the prevailing amount of sand. Not every gardener can afford that the Malinnik's place rested a whole year. However, this approach not only minimizes the number of pests with the help of pesticides, but also contributes to the fight against weeds, and will also give Earth to "relax" and "gain strength". In any case, before the apartment, the use of manure, humus and ash will never be superfluous. The bottom of the prepared landing place is laid by the bore coniferous rocks and peat so that for several years they provide plants with useful trace elements.

Installing support

So that the bushes it is convenient to handle and collect harvest, install a sleeper. The design of the set is pretty simple. It is used for trench landings. For a number of Malinnik, it is evenly rowed wooden or iron pillars. If a series is small, then the pillars are enough to install only on the sides. Between them stretch the wire medium thickness (from 4 mm in cross section) at an altitude of about 1 meter. Further, as you grow young shoots, it stretch from another row of wire to support young.

Before the start of fruiting, all the trunks of the bushes tie to the wire at an equal distance from each other. If the raspberry variety is rather high, then the wire is tied to the sleeper at an altitude of 1.3 \\ 1.5 meters. So that the wind does not break high branches, tie them to the highest wire.

Basic methods of landing and care

How to put raspberries in the fall, to convenient to collect berries? For this there is a trench method described above.

  • There is a trench of a depth of about 45 cm and 50-60 cm long. If the soil has a fertile layer, then put it on the bottom of the row or make fertilizers. If the earth has a non-acid medium, then the ash can be added (it contains potassium).
  • After the trench falls a little (1-1.5 months), you can plant the young at a distance of 40 cm apart.
  • Before you begin to disembark, we process the roots in the solution of cow manure with water and clay. Just lower the roots into it, then shake and straighten over the surface of the hole.
  • I fall asleep the earth, we will tamper it and make a rich watering of landings. The location of the root cervix does not matter, since it is clearly not indicated.
  • Next, we mulch the landing space to save moisture and shelter from the penetration of the cold to the roots.

The bush method is more suitable for transplant repairing varieties. Since repairability implies more consumption nutrients, then pits in the garden prepare 1.5-2 meters from each other. Fertilizers need to be added 2 times more than for ordinary varieties, and not forget about the superphosphate. Such technology allows you to be froning the bustle for a long long term. The rest of the frauds are carried out, as usual, in September or early October. Instead, the tag can be installed backups during the fruiting period. How to plant raspberries in the fall, you learned, but the repairful varieties require more attentive to themselves. Although this type is less susceptible to diseases and resistant to frosts, but feeding it is needed solid. To be froning twice a year in summer and under autumn, we need strength. Therefore, it is necessary to feed the bush during the landing, flowering and under the winter. Also, culture must be constantly fueled by moisture. Fertilizers are made taking into account the soil composition of your garden.

Getting ready for winter

You learned how to transplant Malina in the fall, and now let's talk about preparing for the winter. In the southern regions, it is not necessary to cover the landing, and in the middle lane and in the northern regions without shelter do not cost. It is worth noting that the shelters are designed for snow cover, which as a pillow envelops and protects bushes. Therefore, the part that does not fall under cover, risks getting frostbite. Here is a cultural preparation scheme so that it does not frozen:

  • water if there is no rain;
  • loose shallow;
  • mulching organica (peat, dry leaves from the forest, husknik);
  • long unseasoned shoots cut at the ends;
  • long ripe shoots tilting to the ground and tie to the lower supports or lower wires.
  • in the northern regions they are covered with several layers of Loutrasil or Spanbond, strengthening the lower edges of the material.

In such conditions, the Malinnik is no longer threatened with extinction, and then he gives you delicious fruits on the summer dacha.

Raspberry seedlings gave autumn best Growth And more yields compared to spring planted. However, when landing should take into account many factors. We tell what exactly.

Most often, the gardeners plant raspberries in the spring, but the autumn planting has a significant advantage over the spring - with other things being landed seedlings in September-October will provide a berry for better survival and higher yield.

Terms of landing raspberry in the fall

An unambiguous answer to the question when to plant raspberries, you can not give. Specific deadlines depend immediately from several factors: climatic zone, weather conditions, raspberry varieties.

To plant seedlings are necessary 15-20 days before the onset of frosts. In the middle lane, the landing period of this shrub usually falls at the end of September - mid-October, in warmer regions it is possible to plant until the end of October.

The main criterion for which the readiness of seedlings is determined - the appearance of replacing kidney on the root neck. In early grades, they can appear in mid-September, late - by the end of the month.

If you lose the moment and plant raspberries too late, she will not have time to root well and a seedling can perish into a harsh honesty winter.

Preparation of a plot for autumn landing raspberry

This berry shrub will feel good in the sunny, well-protected corner of the garden.

Ideally, the place for landing raspberries are preparing in advance, for 2 years. If there is such an opportunity, the seedrates are sown before landing seedlings on the selected area.

If the decision to plant the raspberry was made spontaneously, and wait two years you do not want, choose the plots for this culture, in which many years of grass grew up.

Immediately after strawberries and grated raspberries, it is impossible to plant!

Raspberries prefers drum and sampling soils. If your site is acidified, increased acidity needs to be corrected with lime. To do this, enter the ground, the ground limestone, Mergel, Lime Lime, Dolomit. Lime contributes to accumulation in the soil of nitrogen and phosphorus, improves the structure of the soil.

How to choose raspberry seedlings?

Only healthy seedlings can be the key to excellent crop. From a weak, patient seedling will not grow a strong plant, which will bring a good crop. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the choice of landing material.

A high-quality raspberry seedling must be a 20-centimeter shoot of a diameter of at least 5 mm with a well-developed root system.

Acquired bushes should be placed in water for two days, and before planting it is necessary to cut the filled stems. Immediately before dripping a seedling, its roots are lowered into a cowboy solution (1:10).

Brush method planting raspberry seedlings

Brush landing of raspberries (in a separate pit) is one of the most common methods. It is well suited if there is no place for raspberry "plantation" in your garden, and you plan to plant several bushes in different places.

First of all, it is necessary to make a markup with the help of the twine, leaving the interval between the plants 0.7-0.9 m, between the rows - 1.5-2 m.

After that, a holes of 30 × 30 × 30 cm are needed. In each of them, add 3-5 kg \u200b\u200bof compost or humoring, 30-35 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium salt.
Fertilizers in the pit are stirred with the upper fertile soil layer. Then in the ground form recesses. The roots of the seedling slightly shake, straighten. The seedling is located in the center of the well so that root system took all the space. Malina is plunged so that the replacement kidney is below the ground level by 2-3 cm.

After planting, the ground around the seedling is slightly covered, 5 liters of water poured under the bush.

Ribbon way of landing raspberry seedlings

Gardeners consider the ribbon landing of the raspberry (in trenches) in a convenient and efficient way.

For marking of the rows, ropes are tightened in the direction from the south to the north with aisle 2.0-2.5 m. Next, dig a trench with a width and a depth of 40 cm.

On 1, the rumnate meter of the trench consumes the same amount of fertilizer, which is in one pit for a bush landing (3-5 kg \u200b\u200bof manure, 30-35 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potash salt). Then the fertilizers are stirred with the upper fertile soil layer.

Prepared raspberry seedlings are placed in a trench at a distance of 30-75 cm from each other.

Tight fit accelerates trench filling. But ribbons are 0.4-0.8 m most convenient for maintenance.

Before planting the soil, it is necessary to break down for a more rational distribution in it in it. For ribbon method Raspberry seedlings plant a few centimeters deeper than they grow before. Then the soil is well covered so that there are no emptiness between the roots. Lached plants watered and calculating 0.5 liters of water on the bush.

To preserve moisture in the soil, warning the growth of weeds and seeding protection from freezing, after planting the soil around them mulch. The mulch uses humid, hay, sawdust, crushed stems of sunflower, corn. Pull the protective layer with a thickness of no more than 5 cm.

To protect seedlings from freezing, after the first frosts, they should be filled with a 15-20-centimeter layer of peat. In the spring, when the soil fills a little, peat should be removed. Further care Behind the bushes is usual: watering, feeding, trimming and preventive treatments against diseases and pests.

Berry shrubs in the garden not only make us harvest, but also a very decorate our gardening space. It is known that raspberry berries, currants and gooseberries contain biologically active substances more than other fruit cultures. Their fruits even after processing (jam, compote, confitures) retain more than half of the vitamins. A rare garden costs without berry Sustainers. And in the Kuban, probably, the raspberry, currant red or black, gooseberry grow in each garden.

It is well known that there is nothing better than raspberries in the treatment of colds. After all, it has so many salicylic acid, vitamins, trace elements.

Black currant, the gooseberry is accumulated in berries pectin and p-active compounds in combination with ascorbic acid, easily digestible forms of iron, phosphorus and other trace elements. Fresh berries and their processing products are used in the treatment of blood diseases, avitaminosis and cardiovascular diseases.

In the conditions of the south of Russia, raspberry berries, currants, gooseberries ripen at the end of June - early July. This time does not coincide with the period of mass maturation fruit crops, grapes. Currently, the market of valuable treatment products of raspberries, currant, gooseberry depends mainly from the native, country gardening. Therefore, the demand for the planting material of these cultures annually increases. But it is necessary to acquire a clean, healthy planting material.

How to check when buying, how healthy a berry shrub

Here are some signs of infected plants. In berry shrub cultures often spreads a tree - a large night butterfly and her caterpillar, feeding wood. It is easy to determine the escape slice. The core of the cut during the damage to the wood or glass (butterfly with transparent wings of her caterpillar) becomes black. A healthy seedling is distinguished by light green stale shoots.

Berry shrub care

In the south of Russia, the vegetation period continues in the fall (from September to November). After hot summer in autumn when optimal conditions Air and soil temperatures (20-25 degrees), with periodic precipitation, the growth of the roots is activated again, the laying continues, the differentiation of generative kidneys. That is, the latch is a closure of the next year. These processes continue before the onset of stable decreases of air temperature and soil, often until the end of December.

Before the autumn squeezing of the leaves is very important to maximize the weather conditions for active root growth, the continuation of the accumulation of plastic substances, which ensures the realization of potential productivity. For this purpose, it is important to ensure careful soil care. It is known that her loosening after the rain ensures the preservation of moisture, the active state of the root system. Therefore, regularly, at least once a week, it is necessary to carry out shallow moaning of the soil around the plants in the ranks, as well as in the aisle. It is advisable under looser to make a humus, peat or biohumus, as well as ash, which is rich in potassium.

If the bushes have dry or broken branches, they must be cut to live wood, endure the site, burn. The main trimming is the shortening of branches, shoots, the formation of bushes is better to conduct in early spring, in March. After winter, it will be possible to determine the state of plants or damage to individual branches.

In October-November, with a long lack of precipitation, it is advisable periodically, 2-3 times a month, to produce watering.

All these events will help ensure maximum bookmark the generative formations of berries - fruit kidneys that form a crop.

Reproduction of berry shrubs

Malina multiply by one-year offspring is a healthy stem with the roots of the roots. And the currants or gooseberry - with decodes or annual cuttings. The reproduction of green cuttings in the south without fog-forming installations is not possible.

The best dates for reproduction with tanks or weighing cuttings - early spring, the swelling period of the kidneys. This usually happens at the end of February - early March.

Where better to plant berry shrubs

Placing berries by panstone It is better to spend on its borders, on solar open places. In the shade under fruit trees They will not be fruit.

Raspberry seedlings can be placed at a distance of 30-40 cm, currants or gooseberries - 60-100 cm. The soil for planting should be deeply repaired, loosen with organic mixtures: 2/3 HOUSE + 1/3 of sand or ash for heavy drum chernozem; 2/3 Horing + 1/3 clay on light sandy soils.

Before planting the roots of the seedlings, they dry into a thick soil and humus bolt (2/3 of humoring + biohumus + land + drug corneser or heteroacexin). It provides a good adhesion of the Earth during the landing, high survival rate of plants.

When landing, the raspberry seedlings are placed in the landing pits, the ground is sprinkled to the root neck. And the seedlings of the currant or gooseberry are 5-10 cm above the boundaries of the root system stems. After planting the soil around the plants, they are mounted, be sure to pour (on 2-3 bustle - 10 liters of water).

If the landing occurs under the winter, they must be emphasized by the earth, with a height of up to 5-10 cm. In the spring the soil around the plants are aligned and mulched by humus.

Autumn landing deadlines begin with a stable decrease in air temperature to 5-7 degrees, after squeezing of leaves. This is observed in the last decade of November - early December.

In the spring are used early deadlines Planting - in the second half of February or the first decade of March.

It should be reminded that the soil under berry shrubs should always be clean from weeds. After all, they not only deplete the nutritional value of the soil, absorbing a large number of Organic compounds, but also contribute to the accumulation, spread of mushroom diseases, pests. Therefore, throughout the vegetative period, the soil must be clean from weeds.

Before the beginning of winter (at the end of November - the first decade of December), the ground between the rows can be pulled out (up to 15-20 cm). After that, on the surface of the Earth, in the rows around the plants, the organic mulching material is folded in the aisle - the poverty, cow or a bird hum of up to 10 cm. Such a mulch is not only for a long time Keeps a positive temperature of the soil, but also serves as a good refueling and dressing for plants and early root growth.

Biological features of berry shrubs

When leaving the soil, the biological features of berry shrubs should be taken into account. For example, raspberry the roots of the roots are placed in top layer Soil (15-20 cm). At the gooseberry and currant, the bulk of the roots is located at a depth of 40-60 cm in the soil, and skeletal roots reach depths of 1.0-1.5 m. Therefore, the raspberry is more demanding of watering, loosening around the plants should be carried out shallow (up to 5-7 cm ).

Raspberry stems live no more than two years. In the first year they grow to 1.0-1.5 m and laid generative kidneys at the top of the escapes. Next year, inflorescences, berries are formed from generative kidneys. After fruiting the stems dry and die away. At the removable raspberry varieties, fruiting is in the first year of the development of shoots and the next one.

Gooseberry bushes, currants consist of shoots, branches of different ages With annual growths on 2-3-4-year-old wood, as well as annual offspring on the surface of the Earth, which for the second year shock and form young fruit-branches.

Old, 5-year-old branches with weak annual growths are usually removed from the bushes completely at the level of the ground surface. The smaller the old branches, the more convenient the soiling, the growth of annual growths, on which the main harvest of berries is formed. In addition, the carrots are formed on 2-3-4-year-old wood (branches with fruit kidneys), which form up to 30% of the total crop. Timely careful care of the soil, plants will allow regularly obtaining high yields.

To obtain environmentally friendly therapeutic products, berries should be completely abandoned from the use of kerifies in the fight against diseases, pests after the tie of fruits. Most appropriately applying biological means of combating muced dew, other mushroom diseases, as well as waves, ticks. Among them are strong infusions of Celandine, garlic, bitter red pepper based on aqueous soap solution. They are used after flowering, tapeding berries (at the end of April), as well as before the ripening of berries (in the second half of May).

These protection measures are absolutely safe for human health during spraying, as well as when using berries, both in fresh form and for processing.

Famous processing products - jams, jams, compotes, juices can be replenished with vitamin raw jams (berries and sugar 1: 1), as well as wines, lyters that are from raspberry, currant and gooseberry (painted varieties) are distinguished by dessert taste, pleasant aroma, medicinal properties.

If you want to get the perfect harvest of selected, beautiful raspberries, create plants when landing perfect conditions. Strong, healthy bushes are less susceptible to disease and pests and more winter-hardy. The key to the cultivation of raspberries - right choice Places and landing.

Choosing a place

Snow Pokrov
Raspberry is a small-resistant culture. Therefore, in Siberia and the middle lane of Russia, the main condition in the selection of the site is the presence of sufficient snow cover (about 50 cm).

Snow is the best thermal insulator and most reliable covering natural material.

It is desirable that the site is protected (buildings, protective plants, etc.) from strong, drying winds.

Soil fertility
Malina is a shrub with a long-term root system and a powerful above-ground vegetative part, consisting of annual replacement shoots and two-year-old fruit stems. The latter after the recoil of the crop die, and they are cut out. This, together with the harvest, causes a large removal of nutrients from the soil.

Roots in raspberries are located superficially - mainly at a depth of 30 cm. In this regard, the culture is very demanding of the soil fertility.

Humidity of soil
Without enough watering (especially during the formation and ripening of berries) good harvest Raspberries not get. With a lack of water, productivity is reduced to 3 times.

On the other hand, the bushes do poorly tolerate and flooding.

Lighting
Malina does not like shading. For the full ripening of berries, she needs direct sunlight.

In the raspberry bush, there are fruitful and young shoots (renewal), and the latter act as competitors, shading the middle and lower zones of fruiting. Here, flowers and berries on fruit branches (laterah) dry out from lack of lighting. Usually berries, short-walked lights, unauthorized sugars.

The practice is also erroneous to drive raspberry under fences in dark places. Raspberries Ordinary and repairing multiplies, mostly root offspring, spreading them to the periphery - in the aisle. Such a feature delivers certain trouble to gardeners, therefore, this culture is planted in an angle. Rows and bushes of raspberries need to be opened at least to the midday sunlight.

Prevention of diseases and pests
It is impossible to plant raspberries in the crushed raspberry. For the period of life of the shrub in the soil, the mass of various pathogens of diseases and pests accumulate.

Therefore, the Earth needs to disinfect lime, copper sulphate, sow siters (mustard). Or, if there are no other places, you can move a new row from the former row towards the aisle, thereby partially securing young raspberries.

Way of planting
Landing methods are only two - in landing pits or in trenches. Landing in the pit is easier.

Row and trenches are placed under the cord. Pits with a size of 35x35x50 cm roll out after 35-70 cm (mainly 50 cm). Malina loves the body, so the substrate needs to be prepared with humus together with superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ash.

Malina is not afraid fresh manuza, and just "loves" him. In 2000, we laid a row of a variety of Russia's abstraction on manure. In each boarding hole, a layer of soil (4-5 cm) was laid at a depth of 50 cm, the soil layer (4-5 cm) was embroidered so as not to burn roots. Then planted seedlings. The attacks were not observed, and the bushes grow and fruit well.

Trenches with a size of 40-50x50 cm require more labor costs, humus, mineral fertilizers, but they will long provide plant powers for normal development and fruiting.

It is possible to place raspberry bushes - after 1.5 m, leaving 8-10 shoots, and in tapes 10-12 pieces.

To limit the growth of roots in the aisle of raspberries on the sides, you can burst slate sheets, iron to a depth of 40-50 cm.

Dates of landing
In different regions, the deadlines will differ. For example, in the south, it is preferable to plant raspberries in late autumn, since there is enough heat, in the middle lane and Siberia - early autumn. In any case, you need to wait for the appearance of renal kidney seedlings - this is a guarantee of survival. Optimum time - September, and extreme - 20 days before sustainable frosts.

In the spring, the seedlings can take care better if they do not fall under the drought, the leaves will not dissolve and will not reflect the shoots of substitution.

Landing
Saplings are desirable to radiate from pathogens, withstanding the roots in a 1% solution of copper sulfate 3-4 minutes, followed by soaking in water for 10-15 hours.

Saplings put in prepared pits or trenches, evenly straighten the roots, fall asleep with a substrate consisting of land and humus in proportion 2: 1. The root cerv should be at the soil level.

Then we compact the soil around the seedling, for each plant, we pour about 0.5-1 water buckets, we mulch well to protect the seedings to the maximal as possible.

Raspberries on the splere
Raspberries has thin, not stitching shoots that do not hold the harvest in a vertical position. This is especially true of the raspberry grown by separate technology of young and fructing shoots, where the load on the stem increases 2-2.5 times, most of all on the tall varieties of the Russian beauty, the pride of Russia. In this regard, such raspberries need a sleeper - support.

The edge posts are installed at the beginning and at the end of the row and after 4 m intermediate, put the struts, stretch the wire at 100 cm and 180 cm, we stretch it well. Otherwise, the sleeper will join and may fall. Stems are closed by twine thread.

Take care of roots
Malina, many call weed because of annoying offspring, but at the beginning of their life it is a very "capricious lady." Roots of raspberries do not tolerate drying, so seedlings during the digging we immediately hide in polyethylene packages and wet the water.