Repairing strawberries: varieties of increased productivity, fruiting before frost. Features of growing remontant varieties

Last year, quite unexpectedly for myself, I became the winner of the "Summer Season" competition and received a greenhouse from the "Life at the Country House" company. We must pay tribute to the organizers of the competition - they kept the intrigue until the last moment, and therefore, when almost all the participants were awarded, and they were very experienced and respectable gardeners, and only the main prize remained, I decided that they simply forgot about me - I did not even dream that I will become its owner.

Honestly, when deciding to participate in the competition, I did not think at all about the main prize - if only because we already had two greenhouses on the site, and, it seems, the third was useless. But, answering questions and preparing for the new season, I realized what I lack for happiness in gardening life - breeding ground!

The fact is that I prepare seedlings of vegetable and flower crops myself, and if there is a vegetable conveyor that we arrange in our beds, it is required until the end of July. In addition, I grow many flowers, including perennial ones, which can be planted in open ground often only in the fall, but where should they be kept before that? I’m already silent about the various cuttings, cuttings, processes that appear on the farm throughout the summer and also require space for growing.

When I went to classes at the Botanical Garden, our wonderful lecturer Yuri Borisovich Markovsky, speaking about the rooting of some plants, often suggested: "Yes, stick them in a cucumber greenhouse - they will take root there wonderfully," but by the end of the lecture cycle he remarked: "However, if you plant all this there, then where will you grow cucumbers? " So - the only way to save cucumber and other greenhouse plantings from the abundance of tenants is this.

Of course, many will consider the creation of such a structure a pampering - not everyone will be as lucky as I am, which means that you need to make a frame, and you need to buy a film, in short, is the game worth the candle? What can you answer to a similar question? Naturally, if a gardener only grows vegetables that are planted in spring or early summer and sit in the beds until the end of the season, and from flower crops he prefers annuals, then he does not really need a nursery, but everyone else?

First of all, the nursery is very convenient for everyone who is fond of seed reproduction of perennials. It's no secret that planting material is quite expensive, and if you suddenly wanted to make a curb along the path from geyhera or you need a wall of delphiniums along the fence, can you imagine how many plants you will have to buy and how much to spend? Of course, only growing from seeds can help in this case. In addition, the seeds of many plants are much easier to get than cuttings, and shipping them is cheaper. Unfortunately, many perennials develop rather slowly, the seedlings of some species are very small, and, of course, it will not be possible to plant them immediately in a permanent place - first you need to let them grow. Even a seedbed will not help here - it is good for growing rooted cuttings or for fast-growing plants with large shoots.

Now about the benefits of a seedling greenhouse for vegetable growers... Our plots are small, and many cannot afford to cultivate large gardens with dignity, so it turns out that it is more convenient to take several crops from a small area. But the summer in our area is short, and in order for the plants to please us with products several times per season, we have to grow seedlings, reducing as much as possible the time the culture stays in the garden. After all, the area required for the development of seedlings is small, it has enough space in a box or other container, and already grown plants will be planted in the garden, which will yield the harvest in the shortest possible time.

Thus, even with us you can get up to three harvests from one area... But in order for such a conveyor to work properly, it is necessary to have grown seedlings of another by the time of harvesting one crop. Of course, vegetables such as root celery, peppers, tomatoes, early cabbage varieties, leeks and onions from nigella have to start growing in the apartment, but then, as soon as the weather permits, they all move to the nursery. Last year, cold-resistant onions, cabbages, salads settled in the nursery in the last days of March, however, we have heating means in case of frost. And the last seedlings of daikon, Chinese and Peking cabbage went to the beds in the second half of July.

With this compaction of crop rotation we get such sequences of vegetables. For example, as soon as the soil is ripe, we plant spinach, followed by seedlings of ground standard tomatoes, after which radish will still have time to grow at the end of summer. Or, first we sow early carrots for summer use, and behind it, in the second half of June, we plant beet seedlings for winter storage. Or - radish, followed by seedlings of early potatoes, after harvesting which we plant seedlings of daikon or Asian (Peking, Chinese) cabbage. In general, if you think and experiment, you can find many options. Here everything becomes fundamental - both the soil conditions of the site, and the specific tastes of family members, and the possibilities of caring for the plants, and the availability of conditions for storing the vegetables obtained.

First of all, we streamlined the territory of our garden - we laid out the beds and outlined them with a croaker. The soils on our site are clayey, a spruce forest used to grow here, the fertile layer is small, with any digging, poisonous podzol turns out, so the beds had to be lifted, or rather, they were created from compost, grass, manure and from any organic matter that could be found. For potatoes, a separate plot was prepared (about 0.25 ares), in addition, the garden includes two greenhouses 6 meters long, each with two beds. After we decided on the size of the garden, the question arose of what to plant on it. Of course, each owner has his own preferences, but I want to say about our considerations in this regard.

First of all, we refused to grow cabbage for pickling, since our agricultural enterprises now grow it perfectly, in the season it is very cheap, and we have stopped taking up space for it in the garden. But with the early, which we collect in June, we are busy, despite the difficulties with growing seedlings, because in the summer the whole family lives in the country, and early vegetables are more than relevant for us. The same with potatoes - we grow very early (which we dig already in June) seedlings, in addition, we plant some early varieties, but in the usual way, we buy the rest in the fall, when potatoes are cheap. Among other crops, we first of all plant everything that gives early production - radishes, spinach, watercress, perennial onions, lettuce, kohlrabi, early ripening varieties of turnips, in the greenhouse "under the barrel" we sow early carrots to the tomatoes.

Like any gardener, I have my favorites - sweet peppers, carrots and pumpkin - I always grow them, even if it's not profitable, simply because I like these plants, however, I usually don't have to complain about their harvest.

In addition to the listed vegetables, parsley, celery, peas, dill (in the company with cucumbers), beets (common and Swiss chard), parsnips, sweet corn (a favorite children's delicacy), onions, rutabagas, beans, Chinese, Japanese and Peking beans grow in our garden cabbage, spicy herbs (cilantro, catnip, hyssop, cumin, etc.). We plant a little zucchini - they quickly become boring, and when stored, the pumpkin is much tastier. We plant radishes, turnips and daikons quite a lot - they do not leave our table almost all year round. Well, in greenhouses, in addition to the peppers already mentioned, tomatoes of all kinds of colors and sizes and cucumbers reign, to which more exotic neighbors often settle - eggplants, melons and others. As I already mentioned, we always try to grow something early, so we plant some of the cucumbers with seedlings, and some with seeds (their fruits will go into salting), in addition, we grow several bushes of overgrown (10-12-week-old) tomato seedlings - with their red fruits can be obtained as early as June.

And finally, a few more words about the hotbed, which has now firmly taken its place in the gardening industry. In our small greenhouse, we have installed tables with lattice tops, on which there are boxes and other containers with seedlings and crops. Moreover, on the one hand, the tables are stationary, and on the other, at the beginning of June, they are removed, since at this time most of the seedlings go to a permanent place and space is freed up for another bed under the roof. In early spring, the ends of the nursery were covered with two layers - a non-woven covering material and a regular film. After the threat of frost passed, we removed the film, which significantly improved the thermal regime of the greenhouse.

And in conclusion, I want to once again thank all the firms that provided prizes for the participants of the "Summer Season" competition, since all their gifts did a great job on our sites last season, and I hope they will work more.

N. Aleksandrova, gardener, winner of the "Summer Season" competition, 2003

Third time this season.

From Tomi's regular letters to the President of the Russian Federation, we know how football is loved in the city and the region. How important it is not to let the original team die. Only statistics for some reason contradicts these theses: in terms of attendance (4971 people on average per match) the long-suffering "Trud" ranks last among 18 - taking into account the reserve - arenas of the Premier League. And the point here, probably, is not in the deplorable position of the team in the tournament (since the Tomsk residents fell to the bottom of the table, they have not yet been seen in the city), but in something else. As an option - in the level of comfort at the antediluvian sports facility. Or as a fan job.

Last time guys Valeria Petrakova appeared before the native audience on November 5. After a minimal defeat from Spartak, they began an endless tour, which continues to this day. Tom finished the first part of the season with a march along the route

Grozny - Samara - Moscow, wintered in Turkey, and opened a new competitive year in Rostov. Next in line is another voyage to the capital, presumably to Perm and definitely to Tula. The next meeting with your viewer is scheduled for April 8 - unless, of course, some occasion again happens to the difficult lawn.

God bless her, with the hapless "Tom". It is unlikely that anything will help her this season. He limps somehow to the finish line, he will not be removed from the run - and thanks for that. But the more prosperous and demanding teams have the right to be indignant: what about the sports principle and the equality of the participants? Both are naturally violated.

When a direct competitor, instead of the prescribed 15 matches, plays 16 at home and at the same time gets rid of two a priori tiresome flights, it's time to state the selective approach to the tournament participants. Rostov shipped nine goals to Tom at home in two passes. Lokomotiv did not cope with the outsider on the first try, but on the second try it amused its fan with a major victory. Now Amkar has an additional match on its territory looming on the horizon. Is it suddenly?

You can, of course, blame everything on the Tomsk agronomists, who did not prepare the field in the proper form for the end of the first stage of the season and the start of the second. Solder a severe reprimand with the entry into a personal file, so that in the future they will be more vigilant about the entrusted economy. Something, but we know how to find switchmen, and not only in football.

I have, if you will allow me, a question for the agronomist's superiors: did you, gentlemen, know that it is frosty in your area in December and March? Did you know? And if so, why did they modestly keep silent, having received the draft calendar in their hands at the beginning of July? Why did they not insist on transferring these games to the south, but approved everything as it is?

If it was a hope at random (what if Mother Nature would have mercy and send an early spring to Siberia?), Then it was very narrow-minded and naive. I was not too lazy to raise the archives: a year ago in Tomsk the air temperature was plus or minus the same. Only by the end of March the thermometer crossed the zero mark and slowly crawled upward.

Why, then, there were no emergency transfers? And everything is simple: FNL took into account the climatic conditions of Siberia at the stage of preparing the schedule. As a result, "Tom" had to go through an exhausting exit strip (four matches in the fall + two in the spring) - but the sporting principle was fully observed, in relation to both the Siberians themselves and their competitors. The home-to-go balance has not been violated.

What prevented the RFPL officials from taking advantage of the experience of their colleagues from the FNL is a rhetorical question. "The Russian government must keep its people in a state of constant amazement," Saltykov-Shchedrin once wrote. Our football authorities are doing very well.

P.S. General Director of "Tom" Ruslan Kiselev expressed the hope that the RFPL commission will still meet the club and.

The berry season has long passed, but I would like to taste them again right from the bush. To pick berries several times per season, you need to plant remontant varieties.

What are remontant varieties? Repairability is the ability of plants to bloom and bear fruit several times per season. Accordingly, remontant varieties are varieties of crops that can be harvested periodically during the growing season. Some berry bushes, citrus crops, roses and herbaceous plants (begonia, lobelia, carnation, ageratum) have the ability to resume flowering and fruiting.

Let's dwell on the 3 most popular berry bushes and their remontant varieties: raspberries, blackberries and garden strawberries. After all, now is the time to choose suitable seedlings and plant them in the garden.

The remontant raspberry varieties were first registered as early as 1778, when experiments on gene modification were not even carried out yet. So remontant raspberries are the result of selection.

Growing features

Repaired raspberries are planted in the same way as ordinary ones. There are 2 options for planting: in curtains in holes (at a distance of about 45 cm from each other) or in trenches. But first, the raspberry bushes should be held for 2 hours in a container with water so that the roots thoroughly saturate the moisture.

In spring, young shoots grow from the underground part of the bush in any varieties of raspberry. But only in specimens of remontant varieties, these branches give a crop.

By the end of autumn, the upper parts of the raspberry shoots dry out. If at this time the entire aerial part is cut off, then next year new branches can give the maximum yield. If only the upper (fruiting) parts of the shoots are cut off, then new branches capable of fruiting will form on the remaining parts next year. But the harvest will be average.

Benefits of remontant raspberries

• It is very resistant to diseases and pests, and therefore does not need chemical treatments. The thing is that remontant raspberries ripen in August-October, when many pests have already disappeared from the site.
• Since the aerial part of the raspberry is most often cut off before the onset of frost, there is no need to waste time covering the shoots.
• Some varieties boast very large berries (up to 5-8 g).

Disadvantages of remontant raspberries

• In the rainy season, remontant raspberry bushes may have a decrease in winter hardiness and taste of berries. Also, unfavorable conditions sometimes lead to a decrease in yield. The fact is that the berries of the autumn harvest do not receive enough sun, as in summer, therefore they do not always have time to ripen.

The best varieties of remontant raspberries. Russian: Diamond, Bryansk marvel, Hercules, Zhuravlik, Elegant... Polish: Polana, Polissya, Shelf, Morning dew(yellow-fruited). Swiss: Zev, Zugana, Rafzaku... Scottish: Valentine(yellow-fruited), Glen Ample, Cascade Divide(large-fruited), Octavia.

Repairing blackberry

This berry shrub is not found in our gardens as often as raspberries. But thanks to the successes of modern breeders, this situation must change. Repaired blackberry varieties are quite "young", but already very "promising".

Growing features

When planting a blackberry in the garden, it is important to choose the right site for it. This is very important, because in the case of the wrong choice of the planting site, it will not be possible to get a good harvest from the shrub even with perfect care. Repaired (and regular) blackberries will grow best in a well-lit area with light soil.

Like raspberries, blackberries can be cut to ground level, which means they are grown on a one-year cycle. This procedure will save you from the need to cover the shrubs for the winter, which is a significant advantage (but in a cold autumn, plantings can be mulched with sawdust, straw or needles). In addition, it significantly reduces the likelihood of developing various diseases.

If the shoots are not cut, new growths next year may not have time to "give out" the entire crop.

Caring for blackberries in the new season, among other things, consists in removing small and weak shoots. This will protect the bush from overgrowing to such an extent that the weak branches themselves do not have time to grow, and do not allow other lashes to develop safely.

Benefits of the remontant blackberry

• The repairing blackberry is more resistant to diseases and pests than its regular varieties.
• If at the end of the "Indian summer" the blackberry lashes are removed from the trellis and a film shelter is organized around them, then the shrub can bear fruit until the first snow.

Disadvantages of repairing blackberries

• Almost all shrubs of the remontant varieties have thorns. But this is an insignificant drawback, because they practically do not interfere with harvesting.

The best varieties of remontant blackberries. The most popular variety today is the variety Ruben... It is also worth paying attention to the varieties: Black Magic, Prime Arc 45, Prime Jim, Prime Yang.

Repair strawberry

Orchard strawberry (strawberry), capable of re-fruiting, was developed by selection and selection of those specimens that were prone to re-flowering. Thus, like raspberries, this remontant berry shrub has nothing to do with genetic modification.

Growing features

For garden strawberries to bear fruit well, it is important to plant them correctly. Planting in September guarantees that the first berries will be received next year. But for this, after planting the bushes in open ground, it is important to remove all flowers from them until snow falls.

Never leave repair strawberries overwintering without shelter. Be sure to mulch it with straw or other covering material.

In the new season, pay special attention to watering (especially during fruiting) and feeding. Plants spend too much energy on double fruiting, so good nutrition is imperative for them.

Benefits of remontant strawberries

• This culture bears fruit 2 times per season with a clear break (about 2 months). At the same time, the second fruiting by the number of berries can significantly exceed the first.

Disadvantages of remontant strawberry garden

• Plantations of garden strawberries (strawberries) of remontant varieties will have to be renewed more often than usual, because the ability to bear fruit twice a season greatly depletes the plants.
• It is possible to propagate remontant strawberries only by dividing or by seeds, since it rarely throws out a mustache.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries: Albion, Diamond, Queen ElizabethII, Monterey, Portola... The best varieties of remontant forest strawberries: Baron Solemacher, White Swan, Yellow Miracle, Ruyana, Rügen, Holiday.

Do not be afraid to buy and grow remontant berry bushes. Care for them is the same as for the varieties of these crops we are used to, but the "reusable" berries delight with repeated harvests, get sick less and are not inferior in taste and size of berries to their "disposable" relatives.

The generally recognized queen of berries is strawberries. Every gardener looks forward to the first harvest of strawberries. All care rules must be followed to obtain successful results. You need to choose a suitable soil, a variety of seedlings, regularly carry out prophylaxis against pests and water the plant.

Repair strawberry

Strawberries come in many varieties and varieties. In order for it to produce a crop several times per season, purchase a remontant variety. Such species can be grown practically throughout Russia.

Elizabeth II

This variety is large-fruited. Possesses high transportability. Can give 3 crops per season. Some gardeners get their fourth crop in the fall. The pulp is firm, sweet. Begins to bear fruit early - at the end of May.

Gigantic

This variety bears fruit all season, but does not tolerate heat and drought. You can cultivate the plant in greenhouses. This will make it easier to create the right conditions for the variety. The berries are really gigantic - up to 100 g. Harvest - from May to October.

Albion

This variety is ideal for indoor cultivation. Ripening begins in May. Fruiting until the end of October. The shape is conical. A distinctive feature is its great resistance to disease.

Selva

This variety is popular for industrial cultivation. Abundant yields, excellent drought tolerance. High disease resistance. Can be cultivated both in the greenhouse and in the open. The weight of the berries is up to 50 g. The only drawback is that the taste of berries is inferior to other varieties.

Planting material update

When choosing a variety for growing strawberries on your site, you need to remember about the cyclicity of fruiting. In the first year of planting, the plants will not bear fruit - this is a new planting. The next year, strawberries are just beginning to gain strength and there is no need to expect great yields from them. Only in the third and fourth years can one be proud of the results obtained. This is the most productive period and strawberries bear fruit as much as possible.

In the fifth year, as a rule, the plant begins to shrink and gradually die out. It so happens that a certain variety lives longer, but the average age of a strawberry is 5 years. Timely replacement with new planting material will reduce the likelihood of infection of plants, and also significantly improve the rates of fruiting.

Tip: for an even harvest, you can divide the strawberry bed into three zones and plant the plant according to the time of its fruiting. Thus, you will receive a new crop every year.

Choosing a variety

Experienced gardeners advise changing strawberry varieties on a regular basis. This is due not only to the acquisition of experience, but also to the fact that pests are adaptable to special means of dealing with them. In addition, breeders regularly develop new varieties.

Over time, all new and improved types appear on the market. Choosing the right variety for planting is half the battle. After all, each variety has certain characteristics, more or less suitable for a site in an area with climatic conditions, type of soil.

The best way out is to buy several varieties, try to grow them and draw appropriate conclusions. The variety you like can be propagated on your site.

How not to get caught on weedy strawberries

Sometimes an inexperienced gardener may accidentally acquire strawberry weeds. It can be Suspension, Bakhmutka, Zhmurka, Dubnyak. By the nature of growth, such strawberries are distinguished by aggressive reproduction and a powerful vegetative system. Do not take care of such plants, they will not be able to give a harvest.

Some representatives of weed strawberries do not bloom at all, others bloom, but do not set. If berries appear, then they are small, tasteless. A distinctive feature of this kind of plants is a powerful root system and active growth of the bushes. The plant gives a lot of whiskers, rooted well, but there is no need to expect a harvest from such a strawberry. Moreover, multiplying, weed strawberries strangle cultural species, gradually displacing them from the site. Such aggressive specimens must be uprooted immediately.

Correct dilution

As a rule, when planting strawberries for the first time on the site, planting material purchased on the side is used. Sometimes they use their own seedlings.

In order to properly prepare the seedlings ourselves, this must be done during the harvest period. In order for the planting material to have great potential for fruiting, you need to carefully look at the mother bushes. The best specimens can be used to obtain seedlings.

The bush must be strong and the fruiting is not just abundant. Multiple pea-sized berries will not work well. It will be better if these are several of the largest berries on the bush. Having noticed the best bushes, they are marked with pegs. The most productive plants are healthy bushes with lots of uniform, large and healthy berries. Such plants will be the best planting material for a bookmark. Subsequently, the selected seedlings give a good harvest. What genetic potential lies in the plant for fruiting, this will be the harvest.

After the rosettes appear on the marked bushes, there is no time to waste. The quality of the planting material can deteriorate. The best mustache in terms of productivity will be from the first row. Subsequent outlets for seedlings are not suitable, they will be weaker.

Choosing the right place

For planting seedlings, you need to choose the right place. It should be well lit and drafts should not walk on it. Otherwise, in winter, the culture is likely to freeze out.

It is desirable that the soil is loamy, chernozem or sandy loam on the southwestern slopes. Strawberries are not very fond of heavy and acidic, although fertile soils. The selected area must be cleared of weeds and carefully inspected for the presence of pests in the soil. There may be a strawberry nematode, wireworm, Colorado potato beetle. To disinfect pests, you can use a solution of ammonia water (20 kg per 1 hundred square meters). The chemical Roundup is suitable for weeds. In the fall, it is necessary to dig up the area as deep as possible so that the larvae of the insect pests will freeze out.

For the largest strawberry harvest, it is necessary to plant seedlings in the spring. If strawberries are planted in the southern region of Russia, then it is better to plant seedlings in late summer or early autumn. In southern Russia, it can be so hot that planting strawberries in July will not give positive results. Sometimes the air temperature in the middle of summer reaches 40 degrees. Naturally, under such conditions, even if you create shade and water, the seedlings will not survive. The strawberry garden must first rest before planting. It is desirable that this was the vacated land on which peas, beans, onions, garlic, and herbs used to grow.

Planting seedlings

Before planting seedlings, the place must be properly fertilized. This can be done with dung and peat. To retain moisture, it is imperative to mulch with organic material, straw, sawdust, pine needles.

When choosing seedlings for planting, you need to rely on the following principles:

• The neck of the root must have a diameter of at least 6 mm.
• The root should be fibrous, white in color, its processes should be about 5 cm long.
• There should be at least 5 leaves on the seedling bush.
• It is undesirable to store seedlings for a long time before planting.

If the seedlings were purchased in a nursery in special pots, it is advisable to keep a lump of earth on the roots, as far as possible not to disturb it. If the planting material is not in the ground, you can use a clay chatterbox. Before planting, you need to dip it in a mixture of clay and water so that the seedlings take root as best and quickly as possible.

Tip: To make a clay talker, you need half a bucket of red or orange clay. It is necessary to pour water over the clay and let it soak. Stir the solution, it should be like gruel.

After planting seedlings, daily watering is required for a week. Then the land is irrigated as needed. We must not forget about the subsequent loosening. The earth should be properly enriched with oxygen. If the weather is dry and hot, mulching will help. It protects against death and drying of plants.

Inspection of the plant

In order for a culture to regularly bear fruit, it is necessary to be very attentive to its condition. In case of alarming symptoms, you need to take action as soon as possible. Drying and shrinking of leaves can be one of the signs of the onset of the disease. The leaves become a characteristic yellow color. These are signs of a strawberry mite. You need to start fighting with him immediately, until healthy bushes are infected from him.

To do this, it is necessary to remove all diseased bushes and take them out of the site or burn them. For other plants, you need to cut off all the leaves, leaving only the core. Plants can be treated with karbofos solution (1/2 spoon in a bucket of water). It will be good to spray the strawberries with a solution of garlic for prevention (crush 2 heads of garlic and add to a bucket of water).

Barren flowers and lack of fruit

Sometimes gardeners are faced with an incomprehensible situation. The strawberries are blooming all over, and the fruits are not tied. There are several reasons for this:

• The plant is damaged by frost. This may be evidenced by a darkened strawberry.
• Weed strawberries could get on the site. It needs to be removed urgently.
• Defeat by a weevil beetle. Fallen stems and ovaries of a plant can signal this.
• Lack of pollinators.

Important points of care

Self-pollinated strawberry varieties are convenient for growing in the garden. But you can increase fruiting by self-pollination. To do this, you can use a paint brush or cotton swab. It is best to carry out the procedure at noon, in calm weather. If there are plenty of insects on the site, and the bees are actively flying over the strawberries, then additional pollination is not required. These fruits will have excellent flavor and uniform size. The harvest will be abundant.

Tip: Experienced gardeners have taken note of the use of yeast for feeding. The solution is prepared from 1 kg of natural pressed yeast and 5 liters of water. Insist for several hours and water each bush under the root. The proportion is 0.5 liters per plant.

Some gardeners use bee bait. To do this, dissolve honey in water and pollinate strawberry flowers with the resulting solution. The solution is prepared at the rate of 1 liter of water per teaspoon of honey. The mixture is well stirred and sprayed with the plant from a spray bottle.

It is necessary to monitor the irrigation of the soil very carefully. As a rule, garden strawberries love water. But over-irrigation is also detrimental to her health. The berries are affected by gray rot. It often happens that it rains without stopping. This also negatively affects the taste of the berries. They become watery and sour in taste. Additional cover from above with a film can slightly correct the situation.

Watering methods depend on the age of the strawberry and its growing season. It is better to irrigate newly planted seedlings by sprinkling. During the ripening and fruiting period, it is recommended to water at the root or use a drip irrigation system. Potassium is required during active flowering. To do this, it is recommended to feed the strawberries with a solution of bird droppings. You can use mullein, potassium nitrate.

If the grower knows when the strawberry is harvesting, he can correctly follow all the procedures for preparing and caring for the plant.