Do-it-yourself grouting - mastering the technology perfectly! Grouting the joints between tiles - the final touch! How to trowel bathroom tiles

The final moment in decorating the walls with tiles is always grouting. After that, the finish takes on a finished aesthetic appearance. Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom does not require professional skills.

Sealing the joints between the tiles is carried out in order to give the surface an aesthetic appearance and affects the protection against fungal infections, and also increases the service life of the finish itself. What tools and materials are needed for work and how to correctly grout the joints in the bathroom on their own we will explain below.
So, it was decided to grout the joints yourself. To do this, stock up on some theoretical knowledge.

Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom does not require professional skills

Installation of tiles always involves ensuring the distance between them. This is done in order to protect the tiles from crackling, which can occur from temperature changes in the bathroom and changes in water regime... Also, there are always gaps between the tiles and the installed sanitary appliances: bathroom, sink, baseboards. These gaps must be sealed to prevent dust and moisture from entering.
For sealing joints, various types of grout are used, which have their own purpose.
Main types:

The cost of two kilograms of dry mix for grouting for a bathroom is about two hundred rubles. The price policy of grouting mixtures is influenced by the manufacturer's brand, composition, color, packaging.
The well-established brands that produce mixtures for tiles are: Baulux, Ceresit, Knauf, Atlas. Each of them is suitable for working with seams in the bathroom.
If the area requiring embedding is small, you can use liquid solutions.

Grouting ceramic tiles

Grouting technique

Preparation phase
Remove dust from the seams. It is easy to do this with a vacuum cleaner. If you don't have a vacuum cleaner, use a medium bristle brush. Clean old grout and dirt from old joints.

Tip: Pick up the tools and care products in advance that won't scratch the tiles.
Dampen the seams with water. This can be done with a household spray bottle for flowers.
ATTENTION !: Start grouting twenty-four hours after the tile was installed.

To organize work you need:

Pour dry grout into the prepared container. Dilute with water and stir the mixture well until the required consistency of thick sour cream. The proportions are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Stir the solution twice, with an interval of fifteen minutes. This is necessary for its maturation. A mixer can be used as an auxiliary stirring tool.

You can use a mixer as an auxiliary tool for stirring.

Proceed to the stage when the preparatory procedures are completed. Scoop the prepared grout out of the container with a steel trowel. Take not from him a large number of mortar and fill the seam. Remove excess grout. How much mixture, for the convenience of work, must be taken on a rubber spatula for grouting the seam, experience will tell. Also, one by one, the remaining sections are filled.

Tip: The mixture may shrink. In this case, reapply a fresh coat.

After completing the work, rest for thirty minutes - until the grout dries, after which you will conduct a visual audit of the seams. Dampen the prepared rag warm water, squeeze well and lightly remove excess mortar from the tile.

IMPORTANT! Remove excess mastic with wide, circular strokes to ensure that the grout remains intact. This is especially important for mosaic tiles.

Unfilled areas that appear after the grout has dried, fill in and let dry. Next, wipe the tile with a damp cloth.

Tip: To avoid stains on the tile, wash the sponge periodically. Remove excess mastic from the tile immediately, without waiting for it to dry completely. Otherwise, you will have to use a solvent to remove it.

Unfilled areas that appear after the grout dries, fill in and let dry

After the grout has dried, wipe the entire surface of the tile with a damp cloth. Wait until the grout is completely dry.
The manufacturer indicates the drying time on the packaging. It usually takes twenty four hours:

It is always possible to refresh the mastic applied several years ago, and even change by choosing a grout in a contrasting color with the tiles, to embody new ideas. For example, black tiles will perfectly combine with golden grout.

The question is very relevant for many. Joint protection can be performed:

Silicone sealant.
Ceramic corner.
Plastic skirting board.
Self-adhesive tape.

When the sink or bathtub is installed close to the wall, level the joint with a sealant to protect it from water ingress. Before applying the sealant, the seam is cleaned of dust and trimmed in order to form an inconspicuous connection between the surfaces.

Before applying the sealant, the seam is cleaned of dust and trimmed in order to form an inconspicuous connection between the surfaces.

Renewing old bathroom grout

After a certain time, the tile joints in the bathroom should be renewed. The need is caused by both external aesthetics, and hygiene requirements... In old joints, when the rooms are humid enough, a large number of bacteria and fungi accumulate, and this is very dangerous to health. A person may develop allergic reactions and skin diseases. Therefore, the maintenance of the premises in a clean and repaired state is necessary for the normal performance of its functionality.

The bathroom must be refurbished on a regular basis. It is necessary to thoroughly wipe and rinse all the elements of ceramics and faience, as well as the gaps between them. A large arsenal of tile care products released by our chemical industry will help with this. For cleaning the bathroom, it is better to use chlorine-containing solutions, they eliminate up to 98% of known bacteria. However, over time, the grout between the joints can become thinner from constant mechanical and chemical exposure and a new grout is required. To determine the need to replace it, consider the presence of the following signs:

Darkening of the seams has occurred.
The mastic crumbles out of the seams.
Fragments of black mold were found on the seams.
Yellow mud appears.

Tip: If you have any of the above signs, urgently carry out a general cleaning of the old mastic in the bathroom.

It often happens when the usual general cleaning is not enough - too "neglected" seams (rust, mold). In this case, use more serious measures: replacing the grout between the tiles. This allows you to renovate the room, change the color of the grout, which generally has a positive effect on the appearance of the room.

In this case, use more serious measures: replacing the grout between the tiles.

Use a spatula to dispose of the old trowel... To do this, moisten the seam with water, then carefully scrape off all the mastic. Perform the work very carefully, as there is a possibility of breaking the surface of the tile. Use a special solvent to remove epoxy from seams. After the seams are cleaned, apply an antifungal treatment. This must be done both before applying the solution and after it dries.

IMPORTANT! Don't neglect antifungal treatment. It is necessary to fight bacteria and prevent the grout from breaking down.

New coverage

Applying grouting between tiles in the bathroom is an easy task that any beginner can handle. The sequence of all works has already been discussed above. The dry mixture is stirred with water. Do this carefully, as there is a danger of the solution becoming too thin. The normal consistency of the grout should reach a thick sour cream. After mixing the solution well, leave it for fifteen minutes. Stir again (this will help the mixture dissolve better) and start filling the seams between the tiles with small strokes.

There is a possibility that when the mortar dries out, it will crack, so that this does not happen, when drying, spray the joint with plain water. If voids form, repeat the grouting process. After carrying out these works, rub the seams with a sponge.
To avoid the need to change the grouting layer in the future, periodically clean up the bathroom.

IMPORTANT! After completing all the work, before performing the water procedures, wait until the seams are completely dry, this will take at least five days.

Let's repeat that better prevention long-lasting grouting will be the coating protective equipment... It will save you from the influence of negative factors, increase the service life of the grout, and avoid the appearance of cracks on the tiles.
Thus, by following the listed tips, you will not only enjoy the work done with your own hands, but also save yourself from financial spending in the future.

Do-it-yourself grout tile seams with glue

Decorating walls, floors, other elements of buildings and landscaping objects with ceramic tiles is a common technology with many advantages. High strength, durability, moisture resistance are just some of these advantages. The number of those who want to do such a finish with their own hands is not decreasing.

Facing with ceramic tiles

Tiling is not only the strengthening of standard ceramic parts on the surface, but also the treatment of the seams between them. Quality styling means getting flat surface with equal gaps between elements. These gaps - seams - are not difficult to process, their configuration and dimensions are completely set by the laid cladding. Wizard's task to complete tiling works- carefully and correctly fill the seams with the desired composition.

You can be sure that the one who was able to lay the tiles with his own hands will probably be able to finish the gaps. The main thing is to provide conditions for this operation when laying, then grouting tiles in the bathroom, in the kitchen or in the bathroom can be mastered and performed at the same time.

Preparing the tiling for grouting

Tile joints are not only needed for new cladding. It is known that it is the seams of the lined surface that primarily suffer from time and use. The task of updating such surfaces is very often rational decision- instead of a complete replacement.

Thus, the preparation of the surface for filling the joints can consist in removing the old unusable mass or in cleaning the gaps from excess tile adhesive. Craftsmen - professionals never bring to the need to perform such cleaning - the edges of the tiles are thoroughly cleaned during installation. An amateur specialist should do the same - if he values his time and final quality.

Old grout in bathroom tiles can combine completely damaged areas with very high strength areas. Removing the mass filling the gaps between the tiles with your own hands requires caution.

To clean the array of tiles, you can use factory-made scrapers, including those with a carbide blade, as well as a homemade or adapted tool. V difficult cases you can use a homemade chisel from a hacksaw blade for metal, and use the impact with the utmost care.

When you need to update an existing cladding surface, you need to remember that it is impossible to buy the same one, which means that it cannot be damaged in any way. The result of preparation is completely cleaned joints and tile ends.

Materials for grouting

If earlier the seams were rubbed with homemade mixtures based on ordinary or white cement, which the tiler did with his own hands, now they use ready-made compounds. These mixtures are produced in two versions:

Compositions based on Portland cement.
Mixtures based on epoxy polymer compositions.

Tile grout in the bathroom, done correctly, is reliable enough if a cement-based composition is used. The epoxy composition is much stronger, its water resistance is higher, as well as the cost.

Those who want to fill the gaps between the tiles with their own hands can confidently apply cement-based mixtures for any household purposes. The cost of an epoxy composition is justified when the cladding works in conditions of intense constant moisture or even under water. The main thing is to correctly apply the composition to the case. It is also important to be able to carefully use the resulting cladding. Over time, the master will pick up the tool meticulously - he will grout a light tone with a white spatula, and a dark one with black.

The cement-based composition comes in the form of a dry mix or in the form of a ready-to-use paste. The fundamental difference between such grout and home-made grout is in balanced additives. They determine the properties that are important for use in business and for operation:

High plasticity of the mixture, adhesion to ceramics and other materials.
Long-term preservation of the working state - within an hour.
Large selection of colors.
Strength and stability after hardening.
Easy to use - even a beginner can use the grout.

Grouting

The tile grout prepared according to the instructions in the bathroom is applied with a rubber or stainless trowel to the seams. It is better not to use a simple steel tool, as it can form rust stains. The task of the master is to evenly, densely and without gaps fill all the gaps between the tiles. It is acceptable that some of the mixture remains on the tile.

As the ready mixture is used, the master can update the portion, knowing how much he can use up while maintaining it in working condition. Moisture from the mixture will gradually go into the body of the facing, the mixture in the seams and on the surface will harden, dry out and then it can be removed with a dry cloth - it is easily removed. Removing excess mix is at the same time an operation to form a uniform surface and a seam profile. The master will gradually learn to make them perfectly even.

For walls and floors, the grouting operation is the same. If you find unfilled places, you need to update such a site, if necessary, completely redo it. This general scheme can be implemented in different ways. A home craftsman, doing this work with his own hands, will develop and apply the most convenient techniques for himself:

will choose required type spatula;
will install optimal sizes the area of application and the volume of the mixture for it;
will learn how to correctly determine the moment of removing excess.

How to choose a grout

In order for the cladding to be not only effective, but also practical, the grout for the bathroom should be chosen taking into account many factors:

It is important to consider not only the color, but also the lightness of the seams - whether they will be darker than the tiles or lighter
The use of white and very light tones requires caution - they are easily dirty, and even a moisture-resistant mixture will not withstand intensive cleaning and washing for a long time
When it is necessary to renew the grout, the old one must be removed completely - thin layers new mixture will not provide the required quality
If the tile is not laid very evenly, then it is better to wipe it with a mass similar in color and lightness - then the laying defects will not be so noticeable.

Knowing the peculiarities of using the bathroom, the master can choose an ordinary moisture-resistant mixture for the walls, and on the floor - an epoxy compound. In anticipation of the imminent need to renew the seams, it is better to use a cement-based mixture - it is cheaper, easier to use and easier to remove.

It is better to start grouting tiles in the bathroom from an inconspicuous place - the master can quickly learn how to use a spatula and other tool. Careful and hard work will bring good results very soon. On the secondary site, you can refine the color, and after its final approval, update the first trial fragment.

Completing the wall and floor tiling with your own hands should adequately crown the laborious process of creating a high-quality, beautiful and reliable surface.

The final stage in the design of a bathroom with tiles is always the sealing of the seams. After this operation tile masonry acquires completeness and accuracy.

Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom is an affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced craftsman. One has only to start and "fill" your hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing work depends on the selected material. So, for those who have no experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that dries long enough. Using a quickly solidifying material can ruin the whole look of even a well-laid tile.

Criteria for a high-quality grout composition

The joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, wall and floor surfaces from moisture penetration, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, you cannot do without grouting - finishing material with uncovered seams, it will not stay long on walls and floors, and on the surfaces under it a favorable environment will be created for the development of mold and mildew, which sooner or later will infect the base.

In order to work with the material easily, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold already in finished form, must have the following qualities:

The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case, it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable for the mixture to have hard inclusions, which tend to create "plugs" in the gaps between the tiles, which will not allow the grout to penetrate to the entire depth of the joint, and leave air voids.
The elasticity of the mortar will also contribute to high-quality filling of the joints, since it will easily spread over the grooves and will allow the work to be carried out quickly.
Strength after hardening. The grout should not crumble, and when cleaning, it should not be washed out.
Material hydrophobicity after solidification. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
Resistant to household chemical detergents, as any tile flooring requires periodic cleaning.
Aesthetic appearance... The joints between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should be in harmony with

Types of grout by material of manufacture

Today on sale you can find one- and two-component grout, produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are manufactured on a variety of basic bases:

Cement.
Polymer-cement.
Cement-sand.
Polyurethane.
Epoxy and furan based resins.
Silicone.

In addition, there are groutings that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium "liquid glass" and other materials.

But, self-production material may not be of very high quality, and the filler will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature drops. Grouts made at the factory in compliance with all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those that will be made at home.

Therefore, it is better to acquire finished materials, especially since they are quite affordable. And do-it-yourself grouting is recommended only in extreme cases.

Cement-based joint fillers

The most popular and widely used are cement-based grouting. They are produced by most of the well-known manufacturing companies. building mixtures.

Cement-based grouts can be divided into two types - made with or without the addition of sand.

The mixture, which contains sand, is used to seal wide joints, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grout made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of seams a particular composition is intended.

For the manufacture of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which has a fine grinding, due to which, when kneading, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

The mixture can be made using water room temperature, or latex based. The latter will be called polymer-cement grout.

A properly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even high-quality seam, which not only reliably closes the gaps from moisture, but also gives accuracy to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixes can be packed in paper bags or plastic buckets.

Cement grouts may have different colour... Some manufacturers make compositions already in color, while others have coloring pigments included and are added only during manufacture.

If desired, metallic "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone joint fillers

Silicone joint filler is a one-component compound that is packed in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints using a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acidic hardener. The material is essentially a sealant. It completely closes seams, is moisture-resistant and elastic, and has antiseptic qualities.

Silicone sealant - excellent joint filler in particularly difficult areas

This joint filler is most often used in combination with other grouting compounds. Basically, they only fill up the gaps in problem areas, for example, at the joints of planes or in the area where the bathtub is adjacent to the tile, since it has a rather high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, moreover having any width. Its only drawback is that a silicone sealant is produced in a poor variety of shades - mostly white or transparent compounds prevail.

It is easy to fill the seams with silicone sealant, the main thing is to make the correct cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the filler will enter the seams in an even strip.

Resin based grout

Epoxy joint filler

Epoxy grout consists of two components - an epoxy compound and a hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.

This type of grout is highly durable and resistant to external mechanical influences, as well as to high humidity and significant temperature changes.

Epoxy joint filler has a very long term exploitation. Such grout does not lose its original appearance for 45 ÷ 50 years.

After combining the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency, and it is quite difficult to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling seams, but a decision has been made to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.

It is recommended to use epoxy grout in cases where wide, over 6 mm joints are provided between the tiles. It fills cavities well and, when hardened, acquires high density, close to the density of the tile itself.

In order for the wall and floor cladding, where the epoxy aggregate was used, to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose high quality ceramic tiles with perfectly smooth edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.

There is a variant of epoxy aggregate that includes the composition of Portland cement, which plays the role of a fixer. Working with this material is identical to mixing and grouting, but as it cures, it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy aggregate.

In the epoxy mixture, mixed traditionally or with the use of Portland cement, if desired, one of the types of metal powder can be added. In this case, the tile framing will turn out to be very original, and it will especially look advantageous if the seams are wide, of the order of 6 ÷ 8 mm.

The price for this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it goes into work when facing surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory premises, where its strength, durability, resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.

Furan resin filler

This type of grout is made on the basis of furanol with the addition of fupfil alcohol to it. The resulting material, when cured, acquires the most high quality resistance to any influences, either chemical detergents, acids, ultra-violet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, as well as in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, therefore, it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.

Choosing this filler, you need to know that it is quite difficult to work with it, since it requires a special approach to the preparation of the joint surfaces.

The disadvantages of this material can be called its high price and lack of color variety, since it has only one color - black.

This grout is rarely used for decorating tile masonry at home, although it should be noted that black is combined with any of the shades of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws at the edges, then framing it in black will add rigor and clarity to the finish.

Polyurethane grout

The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic compound made on the basis of polyurethane resins and an aqueous dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold as a ready-made homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting joints 1 ÷ 6 mm wide between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.

The grout composition is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water-repellent characteristics.

This type of grout has a rich color range pastel shades, which allows you to choose it for any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for grouting tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other areas, including heated floors.

Tile grout prices

Tile grout

Self-preparation of grout for joints

Just in case, it would be nice to know several recipes for making a joint filler at home, as there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it is not difficult at all.

Cement-sand mixture

The most affordable and simple recipe for making an aggregate is to use cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions of 1: 1 or 1: 2. The two ingredients are dry mixed and then water is added in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

To prepare a cement-sand grout, you can use both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, metal powder can be added to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from that purchased at a hardware store.

Latex additives are sometimes added to increase the elasticity of the mixture. Thus, you get a classic grout, which will be identical to that produced in the factory.

Gypsum grout

Trowelling mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is essential as without it, the cured gypsum will be very brittle.

In addition, lime will prolong the setting time of the gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly sets and hardens, so you should not make a large amount of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After using up each portion of grout, before preparing the next, the container and spatula should be thoroughly cleaned each time, since small and large frozen particles of gypsum will interfere with work.

Gypsum is a fragile material and not sufficiently plastic, therefore, it can crumble under mechanical stress. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so it is better not to use such a grout in the bathroom.

Alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it used to be, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his version.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and depressions in plaster, so earlier its supply could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which have a narrowly focused purpose and do an excellent job with a variety of problems.

If necessary, from this material it is quite possible to prepare a mastic for sealing joints. The process of its preparation is simple and consists in adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. Do not knead a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3 ÷ 5 years. But you can temporarily use it if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.

Clay grout

You don't need to write off material like clay. It is not for nothing that it has always been used for waterproofing work, since it has good hydrophobic qualities. Preparing a joint filler with this material is slightly more hassle than mixing it with cement and sand or plaster. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various solid inclusions, from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement - for faster hardening of the grout. Very little lime and cement are poured. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10: 1: 1 - the main role in it is played by clay.

For manufacturing, you can use a material of any color, if desired, color and metal powder are added to it.

The clay will reliably protect the joints from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will be easy to clean the joints from it in order to replace it with a more professional grouting mixture.

How much material is required for grouting?

So for quality finishes best to use special formulations industrial production... But how many do you need to purchase?

Usually, on the packaging of the grouting compound, the manufacturer indicates the average consumption of material for square meter tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the dimensions of the tiles and the specific thickness of the joints.

Probably, everyone understands what is what smaller tiles in size, the more it fits per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for tiles of various types can vary significantly.

The general formula can be expressed by the following expression:

Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k

In the formula, alphabetic symbols indicate:

Ry– specific consumption grouting per square meter of area;

L and M- respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles selected for laying (mm);

h- tile thickness (mm);

d- planned width of the gap between the tiles - joint thickness (mm);

k- coefficient taking into account the density of the mortar mixture of the material. It would not be a big mistake to accept its value of about 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - for most trowel mixtures, the density indicators are exactly the same (in kg / dm³).

The resulting value will only have to be multiplied by the area of the surface covered with tiles and, for reliability, add about 10% of the reserve:

Rsum= 1.1 ×Ry × S

S- the area of the surface to be tiled with tiles.

Rsum- the total amount of grout to be purchased (in kilograms).

To make it easier for the reader, a calculator is placed below calculation, which contains all the mentioned ratios, including the 10% reserve.

High-quality installation of tiles does not guarantee a long service life. Therefore, grouting the joints between ceramic products is considered a very important stage. It is from this final step that the final quality of the work done, the appearance of the composition, its operational capabilities, and also its durability directly depend. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the room where the tiles are being installed, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

Tile seams represent the gap or joint distance from one ceramic element to another. There are certain and generally accepted standards according to which the tile laying technology is carried out. The gap left between the parts is approximately 2 to 5 mm. However, these indicators take into account only the average parameters of the tile, and in fact the larger it is, the wider the seams should remain.

This approach carries a rational kernel, which is due to a purely practical aspect. In addition, it is necessary to grind the seam in the bathroom in order to exclude the penetration of moisture, which is detrimental to the base of the bathroom floor. As a result of what exactly the seams are responsible for the condition and for how long the shower room will be. Here are some more benefits of a competent grout:

ventilation of the base of the wall or floor is improved;
the displacement of the tile is leveled;
protection from water, dirt, fungus;
reliable adhesion of all surfaces;
attractive appearance.

Choosing a solution

It is necessary to grind the seam correctly so that any troubles do not happen during operation. For this, it is necessary to select a high-quality composition with high characteristics. Today, less attention is paid to this aspect than is required, however, this can cause very sad consequences. To choose a suitable mixture, it is worthwhile to select according to the following parameters:

Wall joints between tiles can be treated with a typical grout, special grout or varnish. After a certain period of time, the bathroom coating loses its quality, therefore, a special mixture should be chosen, characterized by reliable adhesion of the composition to surfaces. Thus, a composition with a loose structure is not suitable here.

Preparing the solution

For the elimination of seams, mixtures packaged at the enterprise are usually used. On the one hand, it is very convenient, fast, and the selection takes a minimum of time, and is carried out for each specific case. In addition, being in the original packaging, the powder, unlike liquid solutions or varnish, can be stored for a rather long period. After all, it is not always possible to calculate the required amount of material the first time. Therefore, the mixture is poured gradually, adjusting the density of the solution.

On the other hand, manufacturing companies offer ready-made and prepackaged formulations in special containers. The weak side of this method of application is the impossibility of storing opened packages, i.e. you will have to use the entire mass or throw out the unnecessary amount of grout. Thus, mixing the compound for the seams on your own is much more profitable than purchasing finished products.

Nowadays, making a trowel mass with your own hands is quite simple. Alabaster blank and a certain amount of water will do. After a while after stirring, a white substance is formed, which is applied to the seam. However, when dry, the mass can crumble, which makes it impossible to use it on a long-term basis. Silicone, plaster additives or varnish will not radically change the situation.

Worth knowing! To prepare a quality grout, it is best to have the necessary experience. Otherwise, the resulting mass will be of poor quality, which will lead to its crumbling after drying. It may be better to turn to the purchased option after all.

How to apply?

In order to efficiently grind the seams between the tiles, you need to prepare the following list of tools:

a small rubber spatula;
capacity;
water;
foam sponge;
brush;
mixer.

When filling the container with water, it is necessary to add grout in small portions to it. For this case, you will need a medium-sized container, except when working with large volumes. The mixture is brought to a uniform state and applied to the surface with a trowel or spatula. It goes something like this:

cleaning the base from debris, dirt;
treatment with agents directed against microorganisms;
the seams are soaked with a damp brush for a secure grip;
prepare some mastic and apply it to the seam;
carefully tamp the mortar between the tiles with a spatula;
if there are no voids, then remove the excess;
after the solution dries, moisten it with water - this will avoid cracks;
must be applied to the seams between the skirting board and the wall.

You need to know! Grinding the seams on the wall and floor has certain differences. For example, a wall surface should be treated from top to bottom with sealant applied last. Flooring is filled from the far corner to the exit, by analogy with laying tiles.

Allow the bathroom to dry for 24 hours, then re-treat with protective agents directed against impact, rot, mold, mildew. This will significantly reduce the risk of the appearance of various microorganisms for the most vulnerable areas. One way or another, moisture will accumulate on the surface of the bathroom floor, naturally, for it the seam on the tile will be like a river bed. Thus, it only remains to apply epoxy to complete the work.

After the bathroom has acquired its final appearance, it is necessary to take care of the attractive appearance of the room. You can use a tile grout marker to remove any traces of putty. Usually, the surface is rubbed in 2-3 approaches, if the mastic has not completely dried out, cleaning is postponed until it is completely dry.

Remains of mortar on ceramics are removed with water and a spatula. Soak the excess, then gently scrape it up with a scraper. Remaining streaks are removed with a damp cloth or sponge. If the tile has a ribbed or uneven surface, then cleaning is carried out with a toothbrush. In the final step, it is better to use a glass cleaner that polishes the surface well.

You need to know! It is necessary to clean the mastic that has not yet completely hardened, otherwise it will be very difficult to soak it, and for products with a relief surface it becomes very difficult.

Caring for bathroom ceramics is understandably different from the usual room. Approximately once every two months, here you need to carry out a thorough cleaning with the use of special detergents or folk in the form of lemon, vinegar, soap and others. Bleaching is carried out using hydrogen peroxide and soda. They do an excellent job with harmful microorganisms, dirt and fungus.

Video instruction

First of all, let's figure it out - when do you need to grout tiles? Usually, masters advise to start this work not earlier, which is a day after the completion of the installation, but you should not postpone it for a long time. And this period is determined for many reasons:

On the second day after the completion of the installation, the adhesive composition has not yet completely "grabbed" and it is possible to easily clean off the dirt and stains missed the day before;
The moisture remaining in the tile contributes to the better absorption of the grout composition, forming a single surface. And on the contrary, special soaking of the completely dried out joints only leads to an increase in water in the grout composition, making it liquid and less elastic. And such a mixture is more problematic to apply, and even more difficult to distribute.
Leave tile joints open for long time not recommended due to the possibility of contamination. Experience shows that trapped small particles of debris and even settled dust significantly complicate the application of any mixtures or coatings. What if it comes about the room where other renovation work, it is very difficult to ensure cleanliness, especially on tiles laid on the floor. Therefore, if you do not want to add problems to yourself, you should not postpone grouting.

Traditionally, the color of the grout is matched to the color of the tile. According to generally accepted design rules, no more than two primary colors are used in the interior of one room. Therefore, some variation in the intensity of the grout and tile shades is allowed, but not the difference in color. When combining tiles of various colors, as well as when using decorative inserts, you should stock up on grout of the corresponding colors.

If it was not possible to find a grout on sale that matches the color of the tile, then the problem can be solved by making it yourself. To do this, take a white mixture and add to it required quantity color scheme for water-based paint... By gradually mixing in a certain color, you can give the trowel the desired shade.

There is one secret here: the color of the wet solution is more intense than that which will be obtained when the mixture dries. When adjusting the saturation, you need to remember about this feature in order to select the desired color as accurately as possible.

For white floor tiles it is more prudent to immediately choose a light gray grout - since it is very difficult to achieve its ideal whiteness when using the floor.

Depending on what methods of grouting the tiles are planned to be used, you may need the appropriate tools: a container with a volume of no more than 1.5-2 liters (a small plastic bucket or bowl); a handy metal spatula for mixing the finished mixture, a foam sponge, a clean cloth and a bucket of water. But the main tools in the work will be a special plastic spatula with a rubber tip or more cheap option- rubber spatula, although such savings are not always justified.

The applied technology of grouting ceramic tiles and the calculation of the amount of material

As when calculating other building mixtures, it is rather difficult to calculate the estimated consumption of grout in advance. Even the numbers indicated by the manufacturers on the packages very often differ, and the most unpleasant thing is when the mixture unexpectedly ends up during operation, absolutely not justifying the declared consumption rates.

To reduce such charges, when purchasing grout, you should consider:

Tile texture. It is more difficult to collect excess mixture from the embossed surface, therefore the grout consumption will be higher.
Tile sizes. Here is simple math - the larger the area of each piece, the fewer seams on the surface. Thus, when grouting the joints between small tiles, more mixture is consumed, and vice versa - the larger the tile, the less grouting will go.
Width of seams. It depends on the size of the crosses used when laying.

For calculations, the ratio of 400 g of the mixture per 1 square meter of laid tiles is taken as a basis. standard size, supplementing or reducing the amount of grout depending on the above conditions.

When all the materials and tools are ready, you need to understand how to use a tile grout.

The main stage is the application of grout

First things first, you need to prepare the mixture. This is done immediately before starting work, since the solution is not stored for a long time and hardens after 15-30 minutes. For the same reason, they cook it in small quantities, especially if there are few skills at work. Dilute the dry mixture with clean water, according to the instructions in the instructions. And at this stage it is very important to mix the components correctly, otherwise you can spoil the material - both too liquid solution and too thick are not suitable for work. After mixing the mixture, it is allowed to stand for five minutes, and then mix thoroughly again. That's it, the solution is ready! Let's get down to the spatula!

When the tile joints are finished after grouting, the surface is left to dry completely. Usually, given the average daily temperature in the room is 16-26 degrees and relatively low humidity, an hour or one and a half is enough. But lowering the temperature by 3-5 degrees can delay this process.

As for the readiness of the floor tiles for use, although the grout in the seams dries up after an hour, you can step or place furniture on the floor no earlier than three hours later. The fact is that small specks or sand accidentally caught in a fragile grout solution can violate the integrity of a neatly made seam.

Final works

When the grout has already completely dried, it's time to remove the remaining white bloom and finally put the tiled surface in order.

The intensity and amount of plaque on the tiles depends on how thoroughly the foam sponge was washed and how often the water in the bucket was changed. But even if the tile needs a good cleaning, this is not difficult to accomplish.

The best and most effective way there will be clean running water directed from the hose - quickly, cleanly and you do not need to rub anything. But there is not always a practical opportunity to apply such a method. Therefore, the "dry" cleaning method is used more often. To do this, use a dense, preferably felt, rag, with which the surface is rubbed, cleaning off the remnants of the mixture. The problem can only arise with cleaning the surfaces of corrugated, textured or matte tiles. And here special cleaners will help, which can usually be found in the same stores where grout is purchased.