Finishing attic with a broken roof of plasterboard. High-quality attitudes of mansard drywall. Mansard cladding GLC

December 12, 2016
Specialization: finishing of facades, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience and gardener and gardener experience. There is also experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: the game is not a guitar and a lot more, to which there is not enough time :)

I prepared this article for homemade craftsmen who want not to simply tinkering the attic plasterboard, but to do it right. Next, I will tell you in detail about how the attic decoration is plasterboard. We will also consider common beginners errors, which will allow you to avoid them.

Finishing technology

Clearing attic plasterboard can be conditionally divided into six main stages:

Step 1: Preparation of Materials

First of all, it is necessary to prepare plasterboard for the finishing of the attic, and two types:

wall - it will be needed to cover vertical and inclined planes. Its thickness should be at least 12.5 mm;
ceiling - used, respectively, for plating the ceiling and inclined walls. Its thickness can be 8 or 9.5 mm.

It is advisable to use moisture-resistant plasterboard on the attic floor, since the humidity level here is often elevated.

Since GLC sheets will be mounted on the frame, it is also necessary to prepare the details for its assembly:

In addition, you need to prepare materials to slip drywall on the attic. To do this, you will need:

primer deep penetration;
reinforcing tape;
start putty;
the finish putty (it will be needed if the surface of the plasterboard will subsequently become painted).

Use polymer compounds as an finishing putty. Their price is somewhat higher than gypsum putty, but it is easy to work with them. In addition, these coatings are not afraid of moisture.

Stage 2: Mansard Preparation and Marking

The attic decoration has a number of their nuances that relate to and preparing the premises to finish. A common mistakes error is that they are not paying enough attention to this operation. This leads to a number of negative consequences, in particular, may even reduce the durability of the rafter design.

Mansard preparation is to fulfill the following actions:

the wooden elements of the roof must be treated with antiseptic impregnation, protecting wood from all sorts of biological influences. Instructions for working with antiseptic compositions are usually available on their packaging.

then the roof must be insulated, using mineral mats or other thermal insulation material. On the pages of our portal, I have repeatedly talked about the technology of mansard insulation, so I will not repeat;
so that the insulation does not gain moisture, be sure to close it with a vaporizolation membrane.

After preparing the room you need to mark up. The absence of detailed markup is also often a mistake of newbies. This leads to the fact that the finish will turn out uneven.

The process of applying the markup looks like this:

first of all, you need to decide on the location of the walls and the ceiling. If the attic is a large and high room can be made P-shaped, as shown in the Scheme on the right.

If you want to get more space, you can make the so-called "broken walls", as shown in the scheme on the left;

then you need to designate the location of the corners between the vertical walls and inclined, as well as between the inclined walls and the horizontal flow. In fact, at this stage, the dimensions of the walls and the ceiling are determined, on which the space of the room depends.

To do this, first mark the points on opposite frontones, then connect them with lines. To apply lines, you can use a paint cord;

then the points on each front should be connected by lines. It is for them that ceiling guides will be equalized.
After applying them, make sure that the ceiling lines are not rejected from the horizontal and are on two fronts in one horizontal plane. For this, the threads can be pulled between them, and check their position level;
the lines of the junction of vertical and inclined walls should be transferred to the floor in one vertical plane. To do this, with the help of plugs, transfer several points to the floor, after which connect them with lines;
now indicate the location of the PP profiles on the inclined walls and the ceiling. To do this, mark on the point of the point with a step of 60 cm, retreating from the edge of the angles of 10 cm, as shown in the diagram below;

next, with the help of a painting cord, connect points on opposite front lines. If the length of the cord is not enough, tension between the points of the rope, and apply the markup on it manually;
on the obtained markup of the position of the PP profiles should be denoted by the locations of the suspension, taking into account the fact that the step between them should be 50 cm.

Stage 3: Building frame for walls and ceiling

Now you can collect on the markup framework. The instructions for performing this work looks like this:

prepare guides in size of lines on the frontows, then attach them using self-samples or dowel-nails. In the process of fastening horizontal guides, be sure to check their position level;

then attach the roofs of the roofing guides for vertical walls. Use profiles intended for, since the racks will not be attached by the suspensions;
now you need to fix the guides on the floor, aligning them on the markup;

next, you should cut the racks at the height of the walls and then install them in a step of 60 cm. Profiles need to be fixed in the guides of self-draws from above and below. In the process of their attachment, use the level;
now it is necessary to install the suspension for the ceiling profiles by using self-drawing;

In the photo - an example of installing a PP profile in the guide

after installing the suspensions, ceiling profiles should be prepared and insert them into guides. If necessary, profiles can be "increasing" by using a special extension;
now profiles must be fixed in the suspension. The most difficult at this stage is to align them. The fact is that the profiles be defeated under their own weight, especially if the span is long.

Newcomers often do not pay enough attention to equalizing profiles. As a result, the decoration of the attic floor with plasterboard turns out uneven, which is noticeable even with the naked eye.

Therefore, first fasten the extreme on the ceiling profiles. To align them, pull along the twine, which should be located on the level with them. They will serve lighthouses.

After installing extreme profiles, pull the twine between them, i.e. Position them across the rails, and exhibit intermediate profiles on them;

similarly, install PP profiles for inclined walls;

next, you need to attach to the bridge profiles with a step of 50 mm, which will make the frame tougher. The jumpers can be done independently, cutting, as shown in the diagram above. You can also use for these purposes with special crosses (crabs).

On this montage of the frame is completed.

Step 4: Frame Oven

So, with the most difficult stage of work, i.e. Assembling the frame on the broken walls and the ceiling, we figured out. Now consider how to shelter the attic plasterboard. The essence of this operation is reduced to the fastening of the sheets by self-draws.

Despite the fact that in general the process is quite simple, it contains a number of nuances:

self-tapping screws must be installed at a distance of 250 millimeters from each other. The distance from the edge of the sheet to Samorza should be at least 10 millimeters;

self-tapping caps need to be deepened by about a millimeter, otherwise they do not allow to slip surface. At the same time, do not twist them too deep, because In this case, the caps will break through the cardboard and the sheet will cease to be fixed;

shelves should have to the center of the profile. The presence of "hanging" seams will lead to cracking;
dispose sheets so that the seams are located with the dressing, i.e. No cross-shakes arose.

The fastening process itself is carried out without any difficulties. The only one, to mount the sheets on the ceiling is preferably with an assistant, as they are overall and heavy enough.

Stage 5: Finnish Frontton

The finish of the frontones resembles the trimming of conventional walls by plasterboard. This operation is performed in such a sequence:

return 4 cm from the front and mark on the ceiling and beveled point walls from opposite sides. Then connect these points lines;
the resulting line is descended to the floor in the vertical plane using plumbing;

immediately secure the wall guides on the ceiling and on the floor, aligning them on the outlined lines;
between the guides on the ceiling and the floor, install the vertical NP profiles, securing them with self-strains on the walls;
now retreat from the walls of 10 cm, and apply the markup in the form of vertical lines in a step of 60 cm;

on the vertical lines, make the layout of the suspension. The vertical step should be 500 mm;
then set the suspension according to the markup;

since the length of the vertical racks will be different, measure the length of the lines on the wall. According to the data obtained, make the rack profiles;
now insert the prepared joint ventures into the guides and secure self-pressing in the suspension. In the process of attaching racks, check their position level.

Similarly, collect the framework on the second front. Then we cut the frontton plasterboard, given the above rules for the installation of HCL.

Stage 6: Gypsum Carton Finish

It can be said that our plasterboard attic is ready. The only one, now you need to rein the joints and prepare the surface to the finishing finish. This is done as follows:

the work should be started with the joints of the seams - cut the chamfer from all the unsubstantiated edges with a sharp mounting knife. The chamfer width should be about 5 mm. If the chamfer will be uneven - there is nothing terrible in it;

now the surface of the drywall must be treated with primer deep penetration. Apply the liquid on the walls and the ceiling with a painted.

Difficult areas and seams treat with a painting brush. After drying the surface, the procedure repeat;

after drying the soil you need to reinstall the seams. To do this, the selected junction should be filled with starting putty, inflicting the composition across the seam by a narrow spatula. After filling the junction with putty, align the surface - swipe along the seam.

Immediately impose a reinforcing tape on putty, and cover it by another layer of putty. Align the surface with a spatula.

In this way, it is necessary to rein all the available joints;

while the putty dries out, you need to sharpen the hats of the screws. To do this, type the putty on the narrow spatula and simply swipe the tool over the Hat;
after drying, the putty surface must be slightly cleaned with a spatula or even a sandpaper so that irregularities do not interfere with further spatlement;
the processed surfaces must be cleaned from dust and covered with ground with a brush;

now you can proceed to the spatlement of the walls and the ceiling. For this work, use a wide spatula. Try to apply putty neatly and evenly so that the surface is turned out to be smooth.
At this stage, glue perforated corners to external angles to align them and protect against chips;
after drying the putty, it needs to be pulled out by a sandpaper or a grid with a P100-120 abrasive. For convenience, use a special fuganok on which a grid or a skin is stretched;

Grinding is carried out by circular movements. In this way, try to get rid of all serious irregularities that are on the surface;

upon completion of the grinding, the surface must be cleaned of dust and process to the scheme described above;
if you plan to paint the plasterboard attic ceiling, it must be covered with a thin layer of finishing putty. With it, it is necessary to get rid of small irregularities and traces of grinding;
primary surface must be carefully polished with a shallow abrasive eye. To monitor the quality of grinding, bring a bright lamp to the surface. In case of detection of flaws, the grinding must be continued, then the surface must be cleaned once again from dust and process to.

To divide the attic space into several rooms, you can install plasterboard partitions. They are installed on the same principle as the vertical walls. The only, partition space should be filled with mineral wool to ensure noise insulation.

Mansard finish Plasterton contributes to an increase in the useful area and concealing wall overlap defects, creating a healthy microclimate.

This light material, which, with a minimum of labor, will not create a large load on the attic design.

But finishing works are produced by plasterboard sheets after the thermal insulation of the room, since the material itself is not insulating.

So the attic room is a subframe with conditions prone to an increased level of humidity.

To calculate the necessary number of finishing sheets of plasterboard, it is necessary to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe surfaces of the surfaces and split the result on the 1st plasterboard area.

Purchase material for the trim should be carried out with a margin. The need for other building materials and tools depends on the finish method.

Preparation

When using an attic room in summer, preparation consists in removing from its surfaces of the existing old coating and cleansing wall and ceiling floors from dust and garbage.

Finishing works are not starting without checking the state of roofing.

In the rainy season, weak roof places will be shown and then its timely repair will be a guarantee of the lack of inclusions on mounted plasterboard sheets.

Checks and rafters are checked for their strength, dryness, and the absence of traces of rot and mold.

With the recently erected attic, the finish is postponed to the complete drying of its design, as this may affect the displacement and deformation of the plasterboard.

The mount is made in 1 or 2 layers. Start with side planes, leaving the ceiling trim finally.

Heat process

A foam can be used as a insulation material, the thickness of which is in the range of 2-10 cm. Making the installation of the plates from this joint material is processed for tightness of the mounting foam.

The disadvantage is the possibility of creating favorable conditions for rodents.

When installing mineral wool as a heating material, not avoiding the appearance of dust, unsafe for human health. Layer thickness in the range of 2-20 cm.

The correct technique of insulation requires the creation of a waterproofing layer from the inside of the plane located the porous part of the outside.

Therefore, the surface insulation begins with cutting the waterproofing material to the desired size and its fastening between the rafters.

Please look at the video on the topic:

The material is stretched and attached to the stapler. The imposition of the edges of the waterproofer is made by the Van.

Tools and materials

Plasterboard sheets;
Direct metal profiles by 2.5 - 6 m;
Corner metal profiles;
Suspensions;
Crabs;
Electric drill;
Metal spatula;
Long tape measure.

Making a frame possible with the use of a wooden bar, whose humidity is from 12%.

At the same time, its pre-treatment with antiseptics will be required, which will extend its service life and protects against rotting.

Stropil fastening

The attachment of the attic plasterboard with its mounting on the rafter is recommended for a small room with a step between rafters up to 75 cm.

The advantages of this option are the speed of work, minimum costs compared with the construction of the crate, and the minimum of physical effort during the installation process.

The minus is the possibility of difficulties in aligning the finishing layer due to the ideality of the smooth location of the rafter.

Therefore, to smooth this defect, a thicker material is chosen - 25 mm, since thin drywall sheets will be trapped and damaged during roofing oscillations.

On metal frame

Before fastening, the framework of frame borders on the floor is made using a painting cord. A similar circuit is transferred to the ceiling overlap with a plumb.

Locations on surfaces are located locations of frame elements.

Guides are mounted by dowels and self-drawing. The fixation of a separate profile segment to the base is made at least in 3 places in a step of up to 1 m.

Suspensions fixing the frame, mounted vertically.

Installing racks to guides is made relative to the vertical markup. Elements are attached to the guides and suspensions with self-draws.

Plasterboard plates are fastened with self-draws in 25 cm increments.

With the capacity of a larger number of the vertically located material, the fastening of its plates is carried out with a displacement for the lack of long horizontal joints.

Montage on a wooden crate

Doom - a frame design made of wood, built from rails, walking across rafters. The location of the rails in the same plane using leveling linings.

Bruce horizontal plasterboard plates are installed vertically.

The importance of this phase is the final leveling of the plane. The inclusion of this process will favorab the appearance of cracks.

First seams. The upper imposition of the connecting reinforcing tape with the passage of the seam relative to exactly its middle.

After the 1st shuttle layer is hardening, it is re-applied to the more thin on the seam with a ribbon.

After its complete drying, the 3rd layer is performed. Deepends from self-samples are also close. At the end sanding all roughness.

Many people who have an attic room, seek to improve it so that it is suitable for living. The easiest thing is attic to see the plasterboard, receiving an additional useful area. Huge advantages of such a material include low cost and simplicity of self-installation. At the same time, the result is obtained interesting and spectacular, eliminating the need for auxiliary finish.

What advantages have plasterboard?

Plasterboard as a building material is considered one of the most sought-after. In many ways, this is explained by a low pricing range. The advantages also include an impressive number of unique properties. Among the main advantages are allocated as follows:

The ability to normalize the climate in the room. This is explained by the presence of gypsum in the composition, which absorbs the excess moisture and highlighting it if necessary.
High resistance to fire. The material is tweet at the highest temperatures without having no harmful substances.
An impressive finish rate by using this material when compared with other building materials. At the average time takes 1-2 days.

Important! It is necessary to take into account the recommendations on the selection of preferred drywall. It is worth a preference to the material with the WgKl marking. This designation suggests that the material is characterized by increased resistance to moisture. As a result, its use is allowed even in high humidity.

Of course, the material has some minuses. These include a tendency to destruction and low strength even at low loads. But the correct installation and lack of special damage helps to exclude any negative points.

How is the preparation for finishing?

If you are wondering how to see the attic plasterboard, it is necessary to understand, the preparatory stage is initially necessary. Regardless of which floor there is an attic room or what type of drywall is selected, the preparation is standard.

Preparation is based on the fulfillment of two main points. They will determine the success of the event as a whole. Initially, it should be verified that the roof is presented by an ideal state without any tests or damage. It should be understood that to correct the situation after the cleaning of the attic plasterboard will be completed, it will not work.

If you omit the need for this, the consequences can be quite obvious. These include the appearance on sheets of plasterboard. Most often they are manifested in the fall and spring when the weather pleases with frequent rains. If the roof is required to repair, it is necessary to urgently do it. This will extend not only the service life of the roof, but also eliminates the problems with the subsequent design design, which is also important.

Many people are solved on trim in dry or sunny days. In this case, they simply do not know if there are any problems with the roof. If you are not sure, you should wait for the season. It will make it possible to understand where exactly there are damage and how to properly approach their fixes.

The next phase of preparation is the survey of the roof bearing elements. This is an inspection of rafters and beams. They should be durable and reliable that the stability of the roofing design is out of doubt. It is also worth making sure that dullness does not accumulate on these details, no rot or mold. All wood elements in any case need to dry and processing in order to prevent the appearance of deformation upon subsequent finish.

Selection of tools and materials

All building materials and tools are prepared in advance so that the decoration of the attic floor of the plasterboard passed quickly and without stopping. Among building materials for finishing should be as follows:

Wooden bars or profile made of metal. Of these, the framework will be made for the design and its finishes.
Plasterboard. You can prepare immediately blanks for finishing.
Fastening elements. These include self-tapping screws and special suspensions for fastening the finish.

The tool is also important, without it, it will not work efficiently and quickly. First of all, the following tools are important:

How to assemble a frame?

Mansard finish plasterboard assumes necessarily creating a framework. For small-scale rooms, the framework can be wooden, and the fixing of the facing material is carried out by packing on rafters and beams of various regions and bars. It is their subsequently and are trimmed by plasterboard.

If the premises are impressive and you plan to perform work qualitatively, choose the creation of a metal frame. It will be needed in the following situations:

Big area of \u200b\u200bthe attic floor.
Desire to add originality and originality by the appearance of the room. This will help a complex frame with a non-standard form.
No possibility to fix the sheets of plasterboard on the inner crate of roofing design.

Creating a frame for the attic floor is similar to the creation of frame structures for any other premises. The algorithm assumes under itself the initial installation of the guides along the perimeter of the room. Next, in a step of 60 cm, the rack profiles are installed, the installation of which should be performed carefully. Special attention is paid to zones near door and window openings. Here the step may differ from the outfit repetition of the outfit.

When installing the frame for finishing, the attic can also be observed separate difficulties. The main thing is to repeat the contours of the room, in particular the roofing design with a complex form. As a result, it is necessary to repeat the contours of the roof in order to save the useful area as much as possible.

The laying itself can be performed in accordance with the following methods:

Fixing material with segments.
Finishing with a free way.
Fixation by means of a special adhesive composition.

The most preferred is the second option of finishing. This is explained by the lack of gaps and dense fixation. The first method is characterized by efficiency and ease of use. We advise you to read: and.

Features of the skin of the attic

Cleaning attic plasterboard is performed in one layer. Two layers of finishing are required in rare cases when the need arises to further increase the strength of the trim. At the same time, for the draft layer, you can choose materials and non-primary species, which allows you to somewhat saved on the trim. It should be understood that the creation of two layers of finishing is a serious work that takes much more time.

The shelving procedure itself is simple. It can be characterized by only two operations:

Applying a sheet of material to the crate.
Its fastening on the frame through the screws. The step between the fasteners can be about 20 cm.

Very often, burning spaces under the roof, we build special double-glazed glass into the rods, because of what, when it comes time to make a ceiling of plasterboard, the attic requires special attention.

How to warm the attitude of the attic - the choice of material

Premises under the roofs of the roof more tend to heat lope than the walls. To understand this, it is enough to remember how the roof is strongly heated from direct sunlight, due to which the temperature is significantly rising. In winter, the impulses of the ice wind may well sweep the attic if it is not taken care of its high-quality sealing with solid thermal insulation, which still needs to be intelligent.

If there are only one wall in the premises of the first and second floors with an outer environment, the maximum is two in the corner room, then the attic area of \u200b\u200bcontact with external conditions is extensive - the whole roof and frontones. It should not only know how to warm the attic ceiling, but also be able to choose thermal insulation, the properties of which can be incompatible with the climatic features of the terrain. Close attention should be paid to the degree of thermal conductivity of a material that affects the thickness of the layer of the layer.

The cheapest and affordable is the polystyrene foam (foam), but he has a number of flaws. In particular, it is an absolute airproof, due to which the premises are deprived of natural ventilation, as well as the content of toxic substances released with smoke during fire. Mineral or fiberglass wool can provide high quality thermal insulation, but over time these materials have a property to see, creating voids, Through which the cold begins to penetrate into the premises.

In addition, there is a physical aging of the fiber, which, gradually turning into a duch, begins to penetrate into the room in the form of the smallest dust, providing a negative impact on the lungs. In this regard, basalt cotton should be used extremely careful. A not bad decision is the rigid polyurethane foam, which ensures reliable thermal insulation, subject to the absence of contact with sunlight. An alternative can be linen fiber in mats, but this is not a cheap material.

Ceiling of drywall: attic, sheathed with her hands

Even the best insulation is unlikely to provide a fairly smooth base for decorative trim, therefore it is pre-sewing a rafter system with a material in order to align the surface. This is best suited for plasterboard. With it, it is possible to install an attic ceiling in a short time even in the absence of greater experience. All that will be needed is the initial knowledge of geometry and a good eye. Let's look at the option of the covering of the underpantry space in the presence of a roof embankment.

Plasterboard ceiling - step-by-step scheme

Step 1: Marking of the ceiling plane by windows

If you are assembled to mount plasterboard, then the space between the rafters is already filled with thermal insulation, on top of which transverse lags of the inner bag. But even a small difference in the thickness of the roofing pie in the length of the skate can lead to the fact that the slopes of the built-in attic windows will have an irregular geometry. To obtain their uniform width, meter from the upper and lower point of each frame the same distance to the inner surface of the skate. If the segments are inserted, the ceiling plane is placed so that it is parallel to the glass packages.

Step 2: Formation of side vertical slopes

On the perimeter of the RAM secrets, the profiles are cut to the corresponding length, so that the edges of the guide side are coincided with the edges of the glass package. We leave a place for mounting drywall, it must be attached almost flush with the inner edge of the frame, and so that it subsequently prevented the opening of the sash. On the inner surface of the roof, on the sides of the window niche, we have long profiles with an emphasis in the lower and top edge of the skate. We set them so that they are in one vertical plane with guides fixed near the glass package.

Step 3:

All profiles are screwed to a pre-fixed suspension in advance, bending down the latter petals. For the reliability of the suspension, secrets are secured with small corners by installing them in the bending places perforated strips.

Guides align in advance tensioned, according to the markup, cords. Suspension mounted on each crossbar or one.

Step 4: Formation of upper and lower slopes

To ensure the maximum light flux, the upper slope is located horizontally relative to the roof slope, for which a transverse guide-oriented semi-oriented floor-oriented lines are found along the lines. I screw the carrier profiles that opposite the ends of which are mounted in the suspension installed on the transverse board, fixed along the upper side of the frame. In parallel carrier, but in another plane, located at an angle of 90 degrees, Krepim short profile trimming, which will become part of the side slopes. For the lower, they simply fix the crossbar under the guide, fixed along the bottom of the frame.

Step 5:

Cut from the insulation fragments of the desired form and gently put in the intervals between the frame profiles. In our case, rolled fiberglass is used as thermal insulation FaithHowever, any alternative option is suitable in the form of sufficiently thin plates so that you can put between profiles. So that the insulation keeps well, weighed the petals of the suspension along its surface.

Step 6: Plasterboard Covering

Before making a ceiling of plasterboard, the attic is completely insulated over the crate of another layer of thermal insulation, which in the conditions of the harsh winter will not be superfluous. We put the rolled material between profiles and fix the petals of the suspensions.

Then secure the sheets of dry plaster with self-drawers with a step of at least 60 centimeters. In the framework of the framework with complex geometry, cut fragments of the corresponding form exactly under the dimensions.

How to seize the ceiling on the attic, in addition to drywall

So, we looked at the simplest example of the covering of the undercase with dry plaster. However, this is not the only option. In particular, the use of plywood moisture-resistant, which can be the basis for decorative decoration, also the ceiling leveling is achieved using chipboard sheets, especially t-shuttered. An excellent solution in doubt than to shelter will be the panels of the OSB, which are connected between themselves very densely by the groove spike.

As an alternative version, plasterboard can be a stretch ceiling, which is quite easily mounted in the complex with dry plaster structures.

As an independent option, you can use wooden lining or PVC siding, also well-established aluminum rush ceilings have proven well. All these materials do not require additional finishes, already being a high-quality decorative coating, however, a rack ceiling in the attic to do with their own hands is quite difficult. But Plywood or OSB with a chipboard must be saved by wallpaper or lining with polystyrene tiles.

Today, no one needs to be convinced that the warm roof in the house is profitable. Huge heat loss is eliminated, the possibility of icing is eliminated, a new residential space appears. It is about the economical organization of the latter we will talk now.

Indeed, if the roof was insulated for conscience, and the height allows, why not use the exposed space with benefit and not to equip one other room in your house. Especially the means will need not so much. And since the topic of our site is purely ceiling, then we will talk about how Inexpensive to finish the ceiling of the attic plasterboard.

Let's look at the photo
As you can see, the insulation packed in the parobarar brings down with a smooth railway cross section of 30 × 50 in a step of 30-40 cm. It's just a sin such beauty to spoil metal profiles.

So, the first thing you need to do is find the trimming of the risks used for the root. They had to stay after construction. But if such managed to find another application, a similar timber will have to buy anew. It will be needed not so much, but somewhere a dozen regards will have to come.

Now write the right amount of them (you have to calculate yes to measure) jumpers and cover the adjoining of your future ceiling to the frontal walls. As a result, you will get a closed circuit, stitched with wooden slats, as if CD profiles - in fact, already ready-made frame.

Now you need to estimate how the most conveniently located plasterboard sheets on your arch. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the GLC of the panel can be shown only on the bar, but in no case in the air.

When we decided with the plan, you can finally sew the first GK sheet.

This is done like this:

First, measure the outline of the landing place, check whether the lamb is perpendicular to the frontal wall, and, based on the data obtained, cut the panel to the desired geometric shape. At the same stage, it is useful to cut down and navigate the jumpers in the end of the plasterboard sheet, but it is possible and, as in the photo, first fasten the sheet, and then mount inserts. True, the second option is more laborious.

The advantage of work in such low rooms, like a attic, is the ability to mount the ceiling without help, using for the support of the panels for a long time known among the messenger "Mop."
Want to order quality repair?

Thus, it is possible to quickly and cheap the entire ceiling plane.
But do not rush to rejoice. Most likely, a similar "low cost" will strongly limit you the choice of further finishes. Thus, such a vault will only be conditionally consisting of smooth planes, in fact, the initially already mounted doomerous rails no one in the level did not exhibit, so the presence of "propellers" is guaranteed. It follows from this that painting for such a ceiling is contraindicated. Any light bulb as the palm shows all the flaws.

Another minus will be in the framework. You probably have already heard that the tree is a living material, and for such products minor changes in geometry - the usual thing. But what may seem insignificant to the Eurovantia, it will come out in the form of cracks. And neither the unifotty, nor, it would seem, thick ceiling wallpaper, can rip it right by living. But it is not all that bad!

There are no hopeless situations. Today, you can find the so-called wet wallpaper. They give a rough textured surface and can easily be restored. For such plasterboard ceilings on the attic this, the most optimal finish option.