What clamps to choose for carpentry. Everything you need to know about joinery clamps. Best pipe clamps

Often in the process of performing any work, it becomes necessary fast compression or fixing parts. To solve such a problem, a clamp is used - a type of auxiliary tool with which, for example, gluing parts, performing welding and other work is performed.

Homemade clamps usually made of either wood or metal. There are many varieties of this tool, and they also differ in the clamping mechanisms. Now this tool can be easily purchased at any specialized store or written out via the Internet, but you can also make the necessary clamp with your own hands, and by its properties this homemade tool will not be inferior to factory models.

Varieties of clamps

In our time, there is sufficient a large number of varieties of clamps, which differ in size, scope and other parameters. For example, the following varieties of this tool are popular, which you can do yourself:

This tool also differs in terms of clamping mechanisms:

Corner;
Screw;
Quick-release;
Lever.

Homemade quick-clamping clamp

Consider the option of making a quick-clamping clamp with your own hands, with which you can use one hand quickly fix parts with each other and fix them on the workbench for further work. This design can be used for woodworking, furniture repair, shoes, and so on. Alternatively, quick-clamping tools can be used not only when compressing workpieces, but also when working when a spacer of parts is needed.

To make a clamp with our own hands, we need a sealant gun, a wooden block measuring 500x50x40 mm. For the manufacture of sponges, we will use two rectangular bars measuring 10x80x20 mm. To use the pistol, it needs to be modified, for this you need to cut off the part in it where the nose of the sealant bottle rests and align with a hammer the plate that connects the pistol itself with its removed part. Then we attach the pistol with this plate to the wide side bar 500x50x40 mm... using self-tapping screws.

In this design, the sponge bars will move along the 500x50x40 bar, for this we make through square holes in these bars. Putting one of the sponges on a large block, we securely fasten it to the pistol press circle with self-tapping screws. Then, putting on the second sponge, we drill several through holes through the clamp into a large block. Several holes are made in order to be able to adjust the width. For fixing, we will use a bolt with a nut of a suitable diameter.

As a result, it turns out that when you press the trigger mechanism of the pistol, the press will move one sponge to another along the bar. In places where the jaws come into contact with parts, insert inserts from soft material such as rubber or plastic. Do-it-yourself compressive force of a clamp can reach 300 kg, tool installation work can be carried out with one hand. The clamp is also removed with one press.

Enough simple design corner clamps you can do it yourself in a home workshop, since a factory analog is quite expensive. The material from which this type of clamp will be of the highest quality is iron.

Initially, we make the base of the structure from sheet metal with a thickness of approximately 10 mm. Next, the foundation of the design is made. To do this, we weld two corners to each other at an angle of 90 degrees; in the manufacture of this structural element, precision is needed due to the fact that these corners act as fixed clamping jaws. Before welding the corners, you need to weld nuts to each of them, which will serve to move the movable jaws. Bolt holes are drilled in two more corners. Further, these bolts are screwed into nuts and with their head they pull the movable corner, thereby achieving compression and stretching of the fasteners.

In order to increase the length on the sides of the grip, you can make a structure resembling a compass of two metal profiles connected at the end with a bushing and a bolt. Having made two sleeves that coincide in shape with the profile, a clamping screw is made on one side of the sleeve, and on the other, they are attached to the existing corners. It remains to put the bushings on the profiles and fix them with screws. This achieves a large distance between the grippers and makes it possible to work with large objects.

DIY created corner clamp has the advantage before the factory models, first of all, the variety and cost. And also such a tool will have increased strength and reliability.

Clamp (German Schraubzwinge, from Schraube - screw and Zwinge - vise) - a tool used to fix any parts or materials at the time of processing: sawing, gluing, joining, drilling, welding. Clamps are made of various materials: metal, plastic, wood and are different in design: screw, lever (quick-clamping). Clamps are used for carpentry and locksmith work. Locksmith and welding clamps are usually made entirely of metal. Carpentry clamps can be made of metal, wood and plastic.

Clamp types:

F - Shaped clamps usually consist of a metal rail on which a fixed jaw and a movable jaw are mounted. Sometimes the fixed lip is an extension of the tire. A clamping screw with a wooden, plastic or metal handle is installed on the movable jaw.

N and the movable jaw can be equipped with a quick-release mechanism that allows you to quickly fix the material. F - Piher clamps with a special clamping mechanism allow you to fasten materials with high forces up to 10,000 N. The double clamping screw is protected from dirt.Double threaded clamping screw - rotational movement is converted to translational movement, which prevents the workpieces from shifting when clamping them.

For fastening "delicate" materials that do not require a strong clamping force, clamps with wooden sponges are used, on which cork linings are glued. They have a wide range of thicknesses of the bonded materials.

G - Shaped clamps- the tire, the upper and lower jaws are a single one-piece construction, a clamping screw is installed on the lower jaw. The main advantage is the absence of jaw play. The disadvantage of these clamps is the small range of thicknesses of the bonded materials.

Corner clamps- allow you to clamp parts at right angles. The angle clamp consists of a body and one or two screw clamps, on which the clamping heels are installed.

End clamps (edge clamps)- allow you to press the material to the end face of the part. They are similar in design to G-shaped clamps, but have two additional clamping screws.

Quick-action clamps - have various designs The most common quick-action clamps consist of a metal bar on which plastic jaws are mounted. The movable jaw is compressed by means of a lever mechanism, it is also possible to rearrange the fixed jaw to the opposite end of the tire and use the clamp as a spacer.

Band clamps - the design of the clamp has a metal tape or synthetic materials and a clamping screw that tightens the tape. Tape clamps are used for assembling and gluing oval, round and multi-angle structures

Angle clamp, Piher A-30, 30mm

Angle clamp, Piher A-30. The thickness of the workpieces being clamped within the block - from 0mm to 80mm outside the block - from 0mm to 27mm. The height of the jaws is 30mm. Weight - 1.05 kg. The pad material is light cast iron. The screw material is steel. Plastic handle for easy screw tightening. Production - Piher (Spain)

3 390 p

Piher Maxi Clamp F, F-shaped, 9000N

Piher Maxi F clamps with clamping force up to 9000N (900kg)!Opening width - from 20cm to 150cm. Weight - from 2kg to 5kg. Clamping depth - 12cm. Sponges made of durable ductile iron. Powerful 35x8mm rolled steel tire. The special clamping screw is completely protected from external influences. Double threaded clamping screw - rotational movement is converted to translational movement, which prevents the workpieces from shifting when clamping them. Articulated removable handle. NSmovable sponge equipped with a roller.Grooves for clamping round workpieces.Production - Piher (Spain).

The clamp is quite simple in appearance carpentry tool but it is widely used in many types of construction or renovation. Its main function is to clamp one or more parts and fix them for a long time.

Purpose and scope

As classic example the use of the product, you can imagine exactly how the gluing of two wooden surfaces... After applying the glue, it is necessary to press the parts tightly for long time, up to a day. They are fixed with a clamp and are in this position for the entire required period.

Also, the clamp is a structural element of many plumbing or household appliances. With the help of it, the vise is attached to the workbench, and the meat grinder to the tabletop. Some species table lamps also have this simple detail in their design.

Varieties

The device of a joiner's or locksmith's clamp is quite simple. It consists of a frame in which the movable part can be. With the help of it, the frame can be "pushed" to the required distance. In this way, the distance between the jaws can be adjusted to achieve the optimum value. Very simple mechanisms have one fixed frame, depending on its size, the one that fits the criteria is selected. By the way, you can buy a clamp at this link - airtools.pro.

The second element is the clamping mechanism, with the help of which the jaws are directly clamped, between them the material for fixing will be located. By turning the screw, you can adjust required degree compression.

By outward signs, which affects the field of application, the clamps can be divided into three types: G and F shaped, in outline they will resemble these letters; as well as automatic.

G. Perhaps the most classic form of the product and the simplest. It is very convenient when working with wooden objects, metal products. The two bars are simply clamped by the moving part using a screw or a lever. When buying, you need to check the clamping mechanism and inspect the frame for chips, since it is often cast iron and can be fragile.
F. Shape resembling a caliper. One part of the frame is motionless, the other moves according to the "sliding" principle. Squeezing the material between the jaws, you need to squeeze it and fix it with a clamping mechanism. The advantage of this type is big step and the clamping ring.
Automatic. They are quite identical and similar to each other. With the help of an automatic drive, you can achieve fixation of parts with one hand.

Before the purchase

Due to the fact that the clamp is quite simple in design, its choice will not cause any difficulties. First, you need to decide on the necessary working stroke of the clamping part so that it meets the requirements. Check the quality of the device, the absence of cracks. Wrap all the way swivel mechanism and look at the tightness of the sponges, also make sure of their even structure.

It should always be remembered that the sponges, when compressed, can leave dents on the soft surface. Therefore, check the presence of gaskets, if any. If not, it doesn't matter, they can always be made at home from improvised material. It must be remembered that the spacers must be of a softer material than the part to be clamped.

Novice woodworking enthusiasts will benefit from our instruction with the sequentially described process of making several types of joinery clamps. In it, we will tell you what materials should be used for this and how to make a device that is exactly suitable for your own needs.

Materials for body, stop and jaws

In the carpentry craft, clamps are used to securely and carefully fasten several parts together during their mechanical connection or while the glue dries. The pressing force should not be colossal, it is much more important not to damage the surface of the parts to be joined. At the same time, the clamp must maintain high strength and be durable.

For the manufacture of clamp parts that are in direct contact with the workpiece, it is better to use hardwood. Ideally, these are larch, beech, hornbeam or birch bars and planks. Such a tree has a fairly high strength and at the same time is distinguished by its elasticity, well restoring its shape. The hardness of such wood is usually higher than that of the processed parts, which can be compensated for by heels made of leather, light rubber, felt or softer wood.

As a frame for the clamp, you can use both hardwood and rolled metal. Corners or shaped pipes work well, but they need to be thoroughly cleaned, primed and painted in order to finished product no traces of rust remained. To exclude accidental mechanical damage or punching of the connected parts, it is recommended to glue the clamps over the metal elements wooden planks or pull on the loose silicone hose.

Which screw and flywheel to use

Despite the not very high clamping force, conventional studs with metric thread will not be very convenient for use as a clamp screw, unless it is very small. The shallow thread pitch will make it tedious to choose a free run, among other things, the triangular profile "eats" much faster.

It would be much more correct to purchase studs with a trapezoidal or rectangular profile, otherwise called a jack thread. The optimal pitch is about 2-2.5 turns per centimeter, so good smoothness of adjustment and optimal tightening torque for wooden parts is achieved.

Get Studs, Nuts & Buttons the right type you can, either by contacting the turner directly, or in a hardware store, including on the Internet. There is, however, one BUT: most of the factory products have a full thread, while a slightly different screw configuration is optimal for the clamp. Ideally, there are smooth pillars at the ends of the stud: about 20 mm long for the bearing (slightly thicker than the thread) and about 30-40 mm for the handle (slightly thinner or of the same diameter).

The handle or handwheel can be made from either wooden block, or by drilling a hole in the hairpin on the side and inserting a steel bar into it as a toggle lever like in a vice.

Straight screw clamp

For the manufacture of simplest clamp you will need a U-shaped bracket frame. There are two ways to make it. The first is to connect three bars at right angles on a groove-tenon connection, reinforcing it with glue and a pair of dowels. This option requires a fairly high qualification of the joiner: the hemming and fitting must be done with high precision, because the load at these nodes is very significant.

The second option is somewhat simpler, but more expensive in terms of material consumption. You can cut the staple out of thick birch plywood by gluing 3-4 pieces of 12-16 mm thick with wood glue like Titebond.

When choosing the shape of the parts, keep in mind that the most reliable structure will be with external slopes for greater rigidity. The stop of the bracket and its opposite part, in which the clamping screw will be fixed, must be trapezoidal. In this case, the inclined sides should diverge outward at an angle of approximately 30º more than the straight line. Thickening in the middle of the frame is also highly desirable.

To fasten the screw, it is recommended to use a foot or nut of the appropriate diameter, which is fixed in one of the "horns" of the clamp frame from the inside and is additionally reinforced epoxy resin... If the bracket was assembled from bars, then you need to insert the screw into one of them until final assembly... If the frame structure is multilayer, then the foot can be replaced with nuts that are glued into the cut of the central plywood layer. Here it is important to observe the direction of the screw axis and at the same time do not allow glue to get into threaded connection- grease it well with grease.

In the place where the clamping heel is attached to the screw, a kind of swivel is needed so that the parts do not move when clamping. It is best to press a bearing matched to the diameter of the inner race onto the solid edge of the screw stud. For a secure stop, clamp the pin into the drill chuck, and then use a triangular file and a hacksaw to cut a groove for the retaining ring. Further, in a bar that serves as a support heel, you need to make a cylindrical groove with a core drill and press a bearing with a hairpin into it, strengthening the fit with varnish or epoxy resin.

Adjustable universal clamp

Clamps with variable width of the solution are more versatile in use, most often they are used when joining furniture boards... To make such a clamp, you will need a calibrated rail made of dry hardwood, ideally beech or ash. Requires a constant profile size along the entire length and the complete absence of any defects. The pressing force that the clamp can withstand directly depends on the thickness and width of the rail.

So, manufacturing should begin by fixing a perpendicular stop at one end of the longitudinal rail. It is better to make it from two bars that fold and clamp the rail in two symmetrical grooves, or fill it in the manner of a hammer. Thus, the workpiece for a clamp with a fixed stop acquires a T-shape, and the length of the stop on the working side should be greater than the overhang from back side no more than 3 times. The connection of the stop with the rail can be strengthened with furniture ties, it is also possible to connect with 2-3 dowels and PVA glue.

The back part of the stop is designed to secure the bowstring. A straight steel bar with a diameter of 10-12 mm is ideal for it. At the end of the bar, cut a thread and spread it between the end stops with nuts on the inside. The holes for the bowstring should be drilled as close as possible to the opposite edge of the stop. In this case, the indent from the edge should be sufficient so that the wood does not split. After installing the bowstring, it is necessary to mark at the end of the strip facing the clamped part, a number of notches with a step of 15-20 mm, make slots up to 2 mm deep using this marking with a hacksaw and cut the notches with a knife.

Next, you should make a movable clamp block. In it, a through eye of a rectangular section is made, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the thickness and width of the longitudinal bar. It is ideal to hollow out a groove 2-3 mm smaller, and then bring it to the desired shape square rasp. The bar should sit tightly in the block, but at the same time allow relatively free movement along the clamp and its inclination to lock on the notches. A through hole must also be made under the bowstring so that the bar is located strictly perpendicular to the rail, and the block slides freely along it with a slight backlash.

On the reverse side of the hard stop, you need to fill another block, which will fasten the bar with the string parallel to each other. To do this, you can use a small piece of a bar in which a groove is made for the bar with a chisel and an incomplete hole for the bowstring is drilled. Dowels or bolts are used to fix the shoe. As for the clamping screw and heel, they are installed by analogy with a conventional clamp. It is enough to drill a through hole in the movable block not too close to the edge and glue a nut or a nut into it from the inside. So when clamping the part, the nut of the screw mechanism will abut against the wood and sit even more tightly.

Angle clamp

The most difficult to manufacture can be called a clamp, which provides fixation of two parts at right angles. At the same time, it is the most useful and demanded tool in the carpenter's workshop.

The corner clamp will be based on a piece of thick plywood. It is better to take a square plank of about 300x300 mm with a thickness of at least 14 mm. In the corner of the base, you need to fix two blocks of hard wood, which for convenience we will call the reference. These blocks should converge at right angles facing the center of the plywood board, the thickness of the bars is not less than 25x25 mm. Their fastening should be as rigid as possible: it is recommended that you first glue the bars, ensuring their perpendicularity using a plumbing square, and then strengthen the connection with ties or bolts.

From the center of each block, you need to draw a perpendicular line, coaxial with which the screw pins will be located. It is necessary to retreat from the bars a distance of 20-30 mm more than the maximum thickness of the parts to be pulled together. After that, two more bars are rigidly attached to the base parallel to the previous ones. It is advisable to glue the nuts right away, and then proceed with the thrust bars in the same way as with the reference ones: first position them on the glued joint, and then strengthen them with ties. For greater convenience, you can immediately screw the screw studs into the nuts.

After fixing the thrust bars, it remains only to press on the bearings fixed in the movable blocks. The section, dimensions and material of the latter should be similar to the reference bars. In conclusion, you need to stuff the handles or insert the rocker levers and cut off the excess base of the clamp, removing the protruding corners for free rotation by the handles of the screws

Individual clamps for specific operations

In any carpentry workshop homemade clamps appear to be more adapted to local working conditions than store-bought ones. A wide variety of variations of the three designs described above can be used.

For example, on one rail, you can fix not one, but two movable blocks for positioning parts on great distance... Such a tool will be very useful, for example, when assembling door blocks.

Instead of a handle, you can weld a regular hex head from the bolt onto the stud. This is important if, when assembling parts, several clamps need to be frequently clamped, released and rearranged. In this case, it will be convenient to rotate the clamping screw using socket head with a ratchet mechanism or even a screwdriver.

For assembling products complex shape it is possible to make stops of clamps and movable blocks of a more complex configuration, which are well suited for working with parts of irregular shape.

In the online store "ProfiMarket" you can wholesale and retail buy clamps for carpentry... Our assortment includes tools different sizes, and you can choose the model you like.

Joiner's clamps: description and characteristics

Carpentry clamps belong to the category of auxiliary tools, the main purpose of which is to fix parts in one position while performing work. To ensure a strong fixation of the movable mustache, there are special notches on the bar that engage the movable jaw. The tool is equipped with a special rotary handle, which is directly responsible for fixing the clamps in a certain position. The guides of the joinery clamps are made of profiled steel, which is durable and resistant to deformation. In our online store you can buy clamps for joinery and carpentry work with workpieces of different sizes.

Types of joinery clamps

In our store you can buy wholesale and retail joinery clamps of the following types:

... The design of such devices allows you to work with workpieces of different thickness. F-clamps they are often purchased in bulk in carpentry shops, where large volumes of work are initially implied.
... There is no lip play in such instruments. G-clamps are suitable for those who do not plan to work with a wide range of workpiece thicknesses.
... The peculiarity of such devices is that they are suitable for use as a spacer.
... The design of such models allows you to place workpieces at different angles, and when you pull the trigger, the "vice" instantly opens.
... Pistol-type attachments are convenient to use for carpentry, locksmith and even welding. The main advantage is the ability to work with workpieces of different thicknesses.
... These tools are commonly used to work with products such as window frames, door frames etc.

Wholesale clamps: favorable conditions from "ProfiMarket"!

In the "ProfiMarket" store you can purchase clamps in bulk on very favorable terms. We guarantee affordable prices and impeccable quality of all products. You can ask all questions to our managers by contacting them by phone.

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