Planting raspberries in the fall - we calculate the best times and methods. Berry bushes: black and red currants, raspberries, gooseberries in the garden in the Kuban

Apparently, in a long-standing dispute about whether it is necessary to pinch the bushes to increase fruiting remontant raspberry, or not, summer residents still figured out - it needs to be done. But another question arose: when exactly? Well, let's discuss this aspect as well.

The plumbing is to blame, here!

My longtime favorite is raspberries. She's a repairman. I think this view is best suited for areas where it is hot in summer, but there are significant differences in day and night temperatures.

Another plus of such raspberries is that they have their first harvests on last year's shoots. In the spring, young replacement shoots appear, with which, as soon as they grow to my waist, I pinch the tops. And there are so many berries from this that I don’t know where to put it.

True, now my harvests are not particularly dense. And all because my raspberries have been growing for many years in the place where the water supply was laid. But then I had to change the pipes, and it is clear that everything there turned out to be dug and upside down, the raspberries went under the knife. Although it was bitter, there was nothing to do. But I transplanted the best bushes. They, of course, were not happy to find such a change of residence and took a long time to gain strength after the forced move.

Therefore, I decided to buy new seedlings, especially since now the market is simply overwhelmed with all kinds of varieties. And each of them, according to the sellers, is the best in the world. But I decided that they were not looking for good from good, and again chose a remontant - Heritage... I bought it, brought it home, planted it.

It took root well. In the fall, I removed everything at the root (as the sellers advised me). The next year, she rose well and at the end of summer began to bear fruit, after which the yields only increased. One thing was embarrassing: I didn't really like the taste of the berries.

And when Heritage fell ill with gall midge, I uprooted it all.

Berries in the snow

I went to the market again, bought Taganka(also renovated). I planted young shoots in the spring, I look - and it all wilted. And let me put the pegs under it. I tied it, straighten it, watch it.

And I see - she has come to life, everything is fresh, healthy. In August, it began to bear fruit: the taste of the berries turned out to be simply amazing, the fruits hold well in the brush. In the spring of next year, shoots appeared. I didn’t thin it, what had to be done, and it turned out thickened. And the bushes went to grow the way they want. Okay, I think, let them frolic, anyway I'll pinch at the beginning of June.

And what do you think?

I didn’t do that on time either. My Taganka only reached my hands in July. I pinched it, looked at the bushes a few days later, and they were all shabby and unprepossessing. I ask myself: "Well, what have you achieved by being late with a pinch?" I called a saleswoman I knew from whom I bought seedlings - so, they say, and so, what to hope for? And she replies that there is nothing wrong, only now the berries will be later. And, indeed, at the end of August, flowers appeared on the lateral shoots, and then berries. And I was harvesting until the end of November, until the snowfall!

She cut off some brushes with berries and put them on the table like a bouquet - beautiful, as if summer was back in the yard.

When small frosts began, she covered it with covering material at night, which she removed from De Barao's late tomatoes. In general, I was once again convinced that remontant raspberries are quite easy to care for, productive and unpretentious. And to remove or not to remove the shoots in the fall is a master's business. Personally, I cut without hesitation.

And one more conclusion I made: with the help of pinching and shelter, you can significantly extend the harvest. That same year, no one had raspberries in their gardens in late autumn, and my bushes had delicious red berries.

And I also tried to grow remontant raspberries in the same way as an ordinary one-time: I fenced the garden with slate, made the distance between the plants about 1 m, left only one or two shoots for replacement.

And the result was surprisingly good! The raspberry branches were thick, and the berries were very large. Yellow large disposable raspberries and Cumberland... The latter is completely unpretentious and does not get sick with anything.

Sometimes I go out to the market to offer buyers something from my bountiful harvests. But to lay out the goods, you need a table.

At first I took for this carton boxes from one of the sellers. But then I decided to become more independent and made a folding "showcase" from such ordinary packaging, which easily fits into a bag. I came to the market, laid it out, here you have a table and a house (see fig). I jokingly call it “my know-how”.

So, in order. You need to take the box, remove the two halves at the top, cut in the corners and pierce holes there at a distance of 1-1.5 cm, then insert the strings into them.

First you need to choose a site for raspberries. The shrub can grow and thrive in the shade, but will yield poor harvests. Shoots will reach out to the sun and form buds mainly on the unripe tops, which will freeze out in winter.

Site selection

We choose a place for a raspberry-tree that is sunny and preferably protected from northern winds. Rows are recommended to be located from north to south or from north-east to south-west. With this arrangement, the raspberry tree will most of all be illuminated by the sun.

Video about planting raspberries

Drained fertile light loamy soils are suitable for raspberries. Sandy soil is also suitable, but then you will have to apply organic fertilizers under the plant every year.

Many are worried about when is it better to plant seedlings, in autumn or spring? We note right away: for different climatic zones planting times of raspberries will vary.

In the southern regions, there is a long, rather warm autumn. Autumn planting is preferable. The best dates are the end of September - the first half of October. Raspberry seedlings before frost have time to give young new roots. In the spring, they will immediately begin to grow and, as a rule, will develop better.

In the photo, preparation for planting raspberries

Spring in the south is dry, hot and passes quickly. If the seedlings are planted at this time, then they will enter the budding phase, without having time to take root. Due to insufficient moisture, seedlings do not take root well and die.

In the northern regions, the spring is wet and lingering, which is very good for creating favorable conditions for the survival of seedlings. But in the fall in the north, it is better not to plant a plant. Experience shows that plants often freeze out, especially if the snow is late.

V middle lane raspberries can be planted in autumn and spring. When is the best time to plant raspberries? Experience shows that planting in autumn still gives the best result. If the seedlings are planted in the first half of October, then they have time to get stronger by winter, and the snow that has fallen will protect them from freezing. But if the snow falls late, then there may be cases of freezing. Weakly hardy varieties, such as black raspberries, are best planted in spring.

In the photo there are raspberry bushes

Autumn planting

For autumn planting, take annual root shoots that have grown from adventitious buds on the roots of mother plants. They are dug up and the roots are examined. Cut off damaged and too long ones. For raspberry seedlings to start well:

Choose a suitable place.
Planting begins when replacement buds appear on the root collar of the seedling. This period is determined by leaf fall, which indicates the termination of plant growth. The timing of planting raspberries in the fall, as already mentioned, is September-first half of October, that is, about 2 weeks before the ground freezes.
Prepare the soil.
Rows are marked out, taking into account that in one place the shrub grows up to 12 years.
When lowering into a trench or planting hole, the roots of the plant are straightened and made sure that they do not bend upwards.
After planting, the bushes are covered with a nutrient mixture and trampled so that the root collar remains at ground level.
Saplings are cut, leaving 15-20 cm of the trunk above the soil. Pruning during planting is essential for normal root development.
Pour half a bucket of water under each bush.
Each seedling is piled up by 10-12 cm.
The entire plot of land is mulched under raspberry sawdust, peat, or chopped straw.
Check the quality of the fit. The bushes are tugging gently. If the seedling gives in and is pulled out of the ground, it must be transplanted, otherwise it will freeze out in winter.

If everything is done correctly, then the first berries will appear in the summer.

Spring planting

Immediately after the soil thaws, the bush begins intensive sap flow. Hot and dry weather can come at any time. Saplings planted in spring take root for a long time due to the fact that they are already with small leaves. Replacement shoots begin to appear, breaking during planting. These shoots use many nutrients of the plant itself for their growth, since underdeveloped roots cannot provide the plant with moisture. The plant is saved only by a very low pruning of shoots to the buds, which have not yet begun to grow.

For planting, choose bushes with shoots of medium thickness. When buying seedlings, it is advisable to make a choice in favor of medium-sized specimens with 1-3 mature superficial stems, which have a well-developed fibrous root system.

The timing of the landing has been decided, now it's time to consider existing ways planting raspberries:

ordinary (joint cultivation method);
bush (separate growing method);
in the container.

The private is the most expedient and convenient. It is preferred by almost all gardeners who plant raspberries both for their own consumption and for sale.

Many gardeners prefer the bush method of growing shrubs. The bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5-1.7 meters from each other. Every year the number of trunks on the bush increases and by the fourth year the raspberry has 10 well-developed shoots. Naturally, weak shoots are cut out. Raspberry bushes are fluffier when grown separately.

Pictured is a raspberry bush

Often summer cottages have small size, but I want to plant different cultures... Then planting raspberry bushes in plastic or metal containers is suitable. The size of the vessel should be 50 cm high and in diameter. The bottom of the container is cut off and dug into the hole. The container is filled with fertile soil mixed with rotted manure. This method does not allow overgrowth to grow. The place next to the bush can be used for other plants.

The ordinary planting method, in turn, is divided into pit and trench. Many gardeners began to refuse to dig holes for each seedling. The trenching method is more laborious, but gives the best result. All seedlings receive the same nutrients necessary for normal development and fruiting. Trenches are dug about 3 weeks before planting. The soil is freed from perennial weeds. The site is marked with stakes, cords are pulled and trenches are dug 45-50 cm deep, 50-55 cm wide.

Rotted manure is placed at the bottom of the trench with a layer of up to 10 cm, the manure is sprinkled with double superphosphate. Vermicompost is poured on top. If there is fertile soil on the site, then the top fertile layer is placed on the bottom of the trench. Only a small amount of ash is applied as fertilizer. It improves the flavor of the berries.

In the photo, an ordinary method of planting raspberries

Trellis device

The shrub needs support, otherwise the shoots will sag and break under the weight of the berries. The recommended distance between rows is 1.8 meters, between seedlings - 30 cm. You can make holes at a distance of 70 cm, but plant 2 plants in them. Alas, not all plants take root, freeze out or die for other reasons. So it turns out the most optimal distance between plants.

Pillars are installed at the beginning and end of each row. If the rows are long, then it is recommended to drive in the supports every 4 meters.

A wire is pulled at a distance of 1 meter from the ground. It is not necessary to buy new galvanized wire for this. On it, the bushes, no matter how well they are tied, will slide and bunch up in heaps. A wire that's already covered in a thin layer of rust works well.

Video about the correct planting of raspberries

Such a trellis is suitable for the first year of raspberry growth. The next year, add 2 more rows of wire: at a height of 30 cm from the ground and 1, 5 from the ground. Shoots are tied to a wire at a distance of 10 cm from each other. You can use rope or pieces of copper wire for the garter.

Foreword

You can plant raspberries at any time of the year, except for winter, of course: in spring, summer, and autumn. In each case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety and the region of planting, as well as follow at least the basic rules for planting this plant. However, the most preferred time is still autumn.

Raspberries, like all other berry bushes, are recommended to be planted in the fall for the reason that they take root better, and in the spring they develop more actively and intensively. With the timely and correct carrying out of autumn planting work, as well as successful wintering, the first harvest of berries can be harvested as early as next year. However, experienced gardeners strongly recommend abandoning it in favor of a powerful and intensive growth of replacement shoots and subsequent abundant raspberry harvests in future years.

To do this, it is necessary to cut off the fruiting stems in the first year after the autumn planting. In spring, plants, as a rule, do not have time to root due to too late planting or early strong warming. With the onset of warm enough weather, the movement of sap in their trunks becomes so intense that the development of roots is greatly slowed down. Raspberries begin to actively grow young shoots. This greatly weakens the seedlings that did not have time to take root, since their roots are not able to provide the entire plant with the necessary moisture and substances in the amount it needs.

With an autumn planting, if it is carried out in a timely manner, raspberries, as a rule, have time to take root even before the onset of winter. And then also in the spring she has some time for this. Another advantage of planting shrubs in the fall is the prevalence of cool, rainy weather during this time of the year. It is best suited for root development, that is, for the rooting of the plant. The most preferable autumn planting of raspberries for the southern regions, as they do not like heat and moisture-loving. And in the south, there is a long and rather humid autumn, plus to this, also mild winter, and spring is characterized by almost summer, hot weather, forcing the buds of seedlings to bloom even before they take root.

Autumn planting of raspberries

Raspberries take root well after autumn planting and in the middle lane. However, in these regions, special attention should be paid to the wintering conditions of plants.

The presence of even a small snow cover over the raspberry tree is considered an excellent protection for the taking root seedlings from frost. But too thick layer (more than 50 cm) of snow can be fatal for raspberries. It is possible that it will undermine. To prevent this, it is recommended that the seedlings planted in the fall be equipped with an air-dry shelter for the winter.

Only in the northern regions, spring is preferable to autumn. And even then mainly because it is difficult to calculate the onset of frost here in the fall. Well, besides, winters are often snowless and harsh, which is why not only incompletely rooted seedlings, but even adult plants can freeze out. Nevertheless, if in the northern regions it is not too late to plant the autumn planting and make a good shelter for the seedlings for the winter, then they will be able to quite successfully both root and overwinter. Moreover, in this case, they will take root better than with a spring planting.

When exactly can you plant raspberry seedlings in the fall? It is believed that the optimal time is the end of September (last decade) - early October (first decade). Although according to by and large for raspberry seedlings with a closed root system, the landing time does not play a fundamental role. The main thing is to give them the opportunity to have time to take root even before the onset of winter, that is, to plant them no later than 2 weeks before the soil freezes.

However, for the best rooting and subsequent growth of raspberries, it is advisable to take into account the cycles of its development. This implies planting after the growing season of that plant is over. That is, when it finally ripens, and clearly visible fully formed replacement buds appear on the raspberry root collar. In this case, the bushes will stop growing and go into a dormant stage, which can be determined by the intense leaf fall. Depending on the variety, this time falls on different periods autumn. By mid-September, as a rule, replacement buds have already formed, and the largest, most early varieties (Black Cumberland, Lyashka), and most remontants ( A shelf, Bryansk miracle, Brusvyan) ripen only by the end of October.

Ripening buds of a raspberry bush

Alas, unfortunately, transplanting and planting raspberries, taking into account their ripening, is obtained for the most part only by experienced gardeners who have had raspberries for several years. Beginners in this business have to be content with purchased or give-and-take planting material, which they begin to sell in September-October or are given by neighbors and familiar gardeners. These seedlings may not be fully ripe yet and therefore require additional care and attention.

But in any case, choosing a variety and planting material for the autumn planting of raspberries, it is advisable to pay special attention to the winter hardiness of the seedlings and their appearance. They must have ripe stems in the amount of one to three (no more) 5 to 8 mm thick and a fibrous, well-developed, healthy root system with a length of 15–20 cm.

Planting non-resistant raspberries (varieties Cumberland,Himbo Top) in the middle lane and in the north, it is better to postpone until spring. Seedlings purchased or taken on the side with an open root system must not be overdried until planting. To prevent this from happening, they need to be planted as quickly as possible or wrapped for a while before planting with wet grass or a rag.

Best of all, this plant takes root and develops on well-drained fertile (fertilized), as well as light loamy soils. Therefore, when there is different types soil, then it is possible and even recommended to use it. So a raspberry tree, organized on fertilized sandy soil, will begin to bear fruit about 10-14 days earlier than laid on a light loamy one. That is, planting raspberries in groups of bushes in different places plot, the gardener will be able to increase the duration of its fruiting period.

Raspberry fruiting

However, the main thing when choosing a place is not only to ensure good survival rate of seedlings, that is, their full development in the first year after planting, but also to ensure that in the future, in subsequent years, raspberries grow and develop normally. You should not plant a raspberry tree where groundwater lie close to the surface, and it is necessary to exclude the possibility of stagnation of moisture in the soil. In addition, there should be no deep shade and strong gusts of wind, especially from the north, at the landing site. It is desirable that the place is sunny and near a fence, especially in the case of landing where there is no natural protection from the wind. It will serve as an additional or basic protection.

If planting is carried out in rows, then it is recommended to arrange (form) them from north to south (from south to north) or from northeast to southwest (from southwest to northeast). With this orientation, the bushes that are extreme on the north side will serve as additional protection for the entire row, and the entire raspberry tree will receive more sunlight and warmth.

The basic requirements for the planting material of raspberries are already given above in the timing of the autumn planting. To this you can only add how to choose the seedlings yourself in your own raspberry tree and prepare them for planting. You need to choose young offspring, which originate from the root of the bush. They must, of course, be exceptionally strong and with well-formed, healthy shoots.

Planting material

You can also take seedlings from a completely dug bush. To do this, it will need to be divided into several parts, in each of which at least one shoot must remain. Strong young seedlings from an adult bush can be taken without digging it up. To do this, you just need to carefully separate them from it. The landing itself and the methods of its implementation are no different from that, or in the summer. Just before planting directly, the seedling must first be cleaned of leaves and shortened. To do this, cut off the top of the shoot. The height of the resulting seedling should not exceed 40 cm. Experienced gardeners recommend 20-30 cm.

Shortening will allow the new bush to take root better and faster, and then develop, which will result in more fruiting. If this rule is neglected, then raspberries will have to spend all their strength on survival, and they will not begin to form new shoots soon. And before planting seedlings, it is advisable to dip their roots in a creamy mixture of mullein and clay with the addition of heteroauxin (root).

With the arrival of persistent cold weather (usually in October), it is necessary to mulch the soil around the seedlings. It will slightly delay the freezing of the soil, which will give the root system additional time for development and growth. For mulching we use dry sawdust, fallen leaves of trees, needles. Place the selected material on the soil in a layer about 10 cm thick.

However, when autumn is rainy and with severe frosts, there is a great danger that the mulch will turn into a solid ice crust. This, most likely, will lead to freezing of young roots and replacement buds of raspberries. In order to preserve the fragile newly planted bushes until spring, it is imperative to make an air-dry shelter for them. It will also keep raspberries from prying. Such a shelter is equipped as follows.

Around (along the perimeter) of the group plantings we install a frame, and inside the raspberry tree along the rows of seedlings we drive in supports (the same as under the trellises) and then pull a wire on them 40-50 cm from the soil. The frame should be slightly below the level of the wire support. Then we attach the covering material (preferably containerboard, reed and reed mats or roofing material) on the frame and overlap it on the wire. You should get a shelter that looks like a hut. You need to cover it on top plastic wrap, which will prevent the covering material from getting wet quickly.

Raspberry seedlings props

Such a "fur coat" will allow the raspberries to winter well even in the harsh climatic conditions of the northern regions, when the thickness of the snow cover does not exceed 35 cm. However, it will be necessary to ensure that the snowdrift above the shelter does not exceed 70 cm in height. it must be removed. Otherwise, the raspberries will become too warm, and in the spring they may not come out of the dormant period. This will manifest itself in the fact that the buds will bloom weakly and the shoots will grow less actively.

After planting in the fall, all varieties of raspberries, without exception, need a shelter that provides "dry wintering". Moreover, it must be done in a timely manner, since being late, especially in the case of late planting, will most likely lead to the death of even frost-resistant species of this culture.

In spring, and in some cases even in late winter, as soon as suitable weather conditions come, the polyethylene from the raspberry shelter must be removed. After 5-7 days, it is necessary to remove all the rest of the covering material from the raspberry tree. If raspberries wintered successfully, then soon green buds will appear on its last year's shoots. This will indicate that the seedlings are healthy and ready for active growth. It is during this period that the stems must be cut to the level of the soil. Due to this, young bushes will not weaken for fruiting and will direct all their strength to their own strengthening and the formation of new powerful shoots.

They are very attractive to the gardener, not only because they are able to bear fruit, but also in connection with their decorative functions... Groups with multi-colored fruits planted against the background of a wall or grass will create berry-deciduous compositions that are quite beautiful in appearance. But, it must be borne in mind that this plan cannot be correctly implemented without a reasonable and correct fit, which will be discussed in this article.

Autumn terms

In theory, all berry bushes should be planted in autumn period, since it is after such a planting that they take root better and develop faster after wintering. When exactly to plant raspberries in the fall, it is impossible to say clearly, since everything varies depending on.

Did you know? Russia ranks first in the world in the cultivation of raspberries. In 2012, about 210 thousand tons of raspberries were grown in the country.

It is necessary to plant bushes after they mature, and, for example, in earlier species this occurs by mid-September, while later ones finish this process in October. All works on autumn planting raspberries must be completed no later than 20 days before the start of the first frost, otherwise the shoots will simply not take root.

How to choose quality planting material

It is not recommended to purchase seedlings of large thickness, it will be preferable to choose stems of medium thickness, or, if you have not found any, even thin ones will do. There is no need to purchase huge raspberry bushes with large quantity shoots, it will be enough to buy several copies of small dimensions.
Seedlings should not be longer than 30-40 centimeters, since they still have to be cut before planting. It is worth purchasing seedlings that already have berries on the stems, which will allow you to evaluate the organoleptic properties of the fruit and make sure of the future ability to bear fruit.

Important! It is worth paying special attention to the root system, which should be well branched, fibrous and contain no more than three to four superficial stems.

Seat selection

The best place for planting raspberries, there will be a flat area, perhaps with a slight slope, good. It is not recommended to plant bushes in swampy and damp places. Due to the fact that raspberries give quite a lot of growth, good decision will plant it along the hedge. Raspberries are a sun-loving plant, so you need to choose a well-lit area for it with minimal shading during the day.

Preparatory work

Let's figure out how to properly plant raspberries in the fall. Before the planting process, preparatory measures have to be carried out concerning both the seedlings themselves and the soil where the planting will be carried out.

Site preparation

Since raspberries are usually laid for up to 10-15 years, the soil must be properly cultivated. The site for planting ahead of time (1-2 months) must be completely plowed, making for each square meter a mixture of such fertilizers: or rotted - 10-12 kg, - 30-40 g, - 50-60 g.

Preparation of seedlings

Before planting, seedlings must be stripped of all leaves, leaving only the stem, cut to a length of 20-30 cm and dipped bottom into a thick mixture of clay and mullein, preferably with the addition of "Heteroauxin".

Planting methods

There are two ways of planting raspberry bushes: pit and trench. The choice of method depends on where you plan to plant raspberries on your site. It is important to consider solar lighting... Many gardeners believe that planting should be done from north to south for better access. sun rays to plants in the morning and closer to noon.

Did you know? Raspberry leaves can serve as a worthy substitute for tea. To do this, they are crumpled with their hands so that they turn black and release the juice, after which they are dried in the oven.

Yamny

It is believed that this method is better suited for the autumn planting of remontant raspberries. For it, it is necessary to prepare pits with a diameter of 0.5 m and a depth of up to 0.4 m in advance. The distance between the rows should be at least 1.5 m, and between the bushes at least 0.8-1 m.
At the bottom of each pit, it is recommended to put fertilizers or the top fertile soil layer, previously loosened. This is followed by a neat planting, followed by compaction, and abundant watering.

Trench

For this method, trenches are dug in advance with a depth of 0.4-0.5 m and a width of 0.5-0.6 m. The gap between each of the furrows should be at least 1.5 meters. It is recommended to place seedlings in a trench at a distance of at least 0.4 m from each other. Fertilizers are introduced into the trench already at the stage of its preparation; for this, the top fertile soil layer can also be used.

If you want the perfect harvest of selected, beautiful raspberries, create ideal planting conditions for your plants. Strong, healthy bushes are less susceptible to disease and pests and are more winter-hardy. The key to success in growing raspberries is right choice seats and landing.

Seat selection

Snow cover
Raspberry is a low-winter crop. Therefore, in Siberia and central Russia, the main condition for choosing a site is the presence of sufficient snow cover (about 50 cm).

Snow is the best heat insulator and the most reliable natural covering material.

It is desirable that the site be protected (by structures, protective plantings, etc.) from strong, drying winds.

Soil fertility
Raspberry is a shrub with a perennial root system and a powerful aboveground vegetative part, consisting of one-year replacement shoots and two-year-old fruiting stems. The latter, after the return of the harvest, die, and they are cut out. This, together with the harvest, leads to a large removal of nutrients from the soil.

Raspberry roots are located superficially - mainly at a depth of 30 cm. In this regard, the culture is very demanding on soil fertility.

Soil moisture
Without sufficient watering (especially during the formation and ripening of berries) good harvest raspberries do not get. With a lack of water, productivity decreases up to 3 times.

On the other hand, the bushes do not tolerate waterlogging and flooding well.

Lighting
Raspberries don't like shading. For full ripening of berries, she needs direct sunlight.

In the raspberry bush, fruiting and young shoots (renewals) are present, and the latter act as competitors, shading the middle and lower fruiting zones. Here flowers and berries on fruit-bearing branches (laterals) dry up from lack of lighting. Usually, berries that have not received light do not take in sugars.

The practice of driving raspberries under fences, into dark places is also a mistake. Common and remontant raspberries reproduce mainly by root suckers, spreading them to the periphery - in the aisles. This feature brings certain troubles to gardeners, and therefore they plant this culture in a corner. Rows and bushes of raspberries should be kept open to at least midday sunlight.

Prevention of diseases and pests
Do not plant raspberries over grubbed raspberries. During the life of a shrub, a mass of various pathogens and pests accumulates in the soil.

Therefore, the land must be disinfected with lime, copper sulfate, sow siderates (mustard). Or, if there are no other places, you can move the new row from the former row towards the aisle, thereby partially protecting the young plantings of raspberries.

Planting method
There are only two planting methods - in planting holes or in trenches. Landing in holes is easier.

The row and trenches are marked with a cord. Pits measuring 35x35x50 cm are dug after 35-70 cm (mostly 50 cm). Raspberries love organic matter, so the substrate must be cooked with humus together with superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ash.

Raspberry is not afraid fresh manure, but simply "adores" him. In 2000, we planted a number of varieties Kras of Russia on manure. 4-5 kg of fresh straw manure was placed in each planting hole to a depth of 50 cm, and a layer of soil (4-5 cm) was poured on top so as not to burn the roots. Then the seedlings were planted. No lunges were observed, and the bushes grow and bear fruit well.

Trenches 40-50x50 cm in size require more labor costs, humus, mineral fertilizers, but they provide plants with food for normal development and fruiting for a long time.

You can place raspberries in bushes - after 1.5 m, leaving 8-10 shoots each, and in ribbons of 10-12 pieces.

To limit the growth of roots in the aisles of raspberries on the sides, you can bury sheets of slate, iron to a depth of 40-50 cm.

Landing dates
The dates vary in different regions. For example, in the south, it is preferable to plant raspberries in late autumn, since it is quite warm there, in the middle lane and Siberia - early autumn... In any case, you need to wait for the appearance of replacement buds at the base of the seedlings - this is a guarantee of survival. Optimal term- September, and the last one - 20 days before stable frosts.

In spring, seedlings can take root better if they do not fall under drought, leaves do not bloom and replacement shoots do not grow.

Landing
It is advisable to disinfect the seedlings from pathogens by keeping the roots in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 3-4 minutes, followed by soaking in water for 10-15 hours.

We put the seedlings in prepared pits or trenches, evenly spread the roots, fill them with a substrate consisting of earth and humus in a 2: 1 ratio. The root collar should be at ground level.

Then we compact the soil around the seedling, pour about 0.5-1 buckets of water under each plant, mulch well to protect the new plantings from freezing as much as possible.

Raspberries on a trellis
Raspberries have thin, unstable shoots that do not hold the crop upright. This is especially true of raspberries grown according to separate technology of young and fruiting shoots, where the load on the stem increases by 2-2.5 times, most of all on tall varieties of Kras of Russia, Pride of Russia. In this regard, such raspberries need a trellis - support.

We install the edge pillars at the beginning and at the end of the row and after 4 m intermediate ones, put spacers, stretch the wire at the level of 100 cm and 180 cm, stretch it well. Otherwise, the trellis will bend and may fall. Tie the stems with a string of twine.

Protect your roots
Many people call raspberries a weed because of annoying offspring, but at the beginning of her life this is a very "capricious lady". Raspberry roots do not tolerate drying, therefore, when digging, we immediately hide the seedlings in plastic bags and moisten them with water.