How to make a showcase "Glass Cubes". Showcase made of glass for the collection do it yourself

Often there sufficient number Beautiful things that are most often cleaned and not visible. In such a situation, the cabinet showcase will very help in which you can put various figures, vases, decorative plates etc. All these things in such a wardrobe will look very nice, and besides that they will not bother!

Of course, currently such a wardrobe can be easily acquired in almost any furniture store. But there is another option, make such furniture yourself! For example, a wardrobe can be made from furniture ash shields that should have a thickness of 18 and 27 millimeters. But also for manufacture can be used furniture shields From pine or spruce.

From the prepared material, it is necessary to cut down all the details, only with the exception of the corners for the drivers of the retractable, as well as the rear wall. The rear wall and boxes will need to be made from plywood with a thickness of 4 and 9 millimeters, respectively. The process of glazing side walls and doors should be made of glass with a thickness of 3 millimeters, and the shelves are also made of glass, but already with a thickness of 6 millimeters with edges polished.

Subsequently, the wardrobe can be separated by a furniture colorless varnish or wax. IN this example The cabinet is painted by the verse of two diverse tones, and also primed up impregnated colorless soil, and is also covered with nitrolac.

The process of creating a wardrobe

The cabinet showcase will consist of several independent nodes. They can be created independently of each other. And after completion, they can be collected together. Such a "nodal" structure of the cabinet, of course, will facilitate the process of its creation! In addition, if necessary, such a wardrobe can also be quickly disassembled, and subsequently collect again. The process of assembling the cabinet will occur without the use of glue. Only screwed from the inside of screws will be used! First, it is necessary to make side walls with cutouts for glasses and enhancing the bar. After that, it is necessary to make the base, cornice, as well as both lattice frames. From the lattice frames it will be necessary to assemble the cabinet for drawers of retractable. The posterior wall, which will be inserted into the folders selected around the perimeter, will connect the top of the cabinet with low part. At the end, you will need to hang the doors, and insert drawers sliding.

In addition, the design of the cabinet-showcase, if desired, can be considerably simplified, that is, not to create many drawers, but only make them imitation on a solid door. For such a door you can make any shelves.

Everything, the cabinet showcase is completely ready.

For the manufacture of 16 mm thick chipboard, a glass of 4 mm thick. For the facing of the ends, the shockproof ABS edge is used with a thickness of 1 mm.

Assembly scheme.

№	Name	Size "x"	Size "y"	pC.
1	Side.	868\| \|	560	2	Cut at an angle
2		700\| \|	560\| \|	1
3	Top, table top.	700\| \|	380\| \|	1
4	Joint plank.	668\|	80	1
5	Ground plank.	700\|	96\| \|	1

6	Glass shelf bottom.	662	420	1	Shlifted ends
	Glass upper shelf.	662	350	1	Shlifted ends
7	Facial glass.	892	662	1	Shlifted ends
8	Wall sliding. Mirror 4 mm.	860	340	2	Shlifted ends

Furnitura.

	Name of fittings and description.	Number.
1	The leg is kitchen, plastic, adjustable. H \u003d 100 mm.	4
2	Vacante 30x8 mm.	8
3	Confirmation. 50x7 mm.	6
4	Chat "Minifix" with plastic plug 8 mm.	2
5	Metal glass container with retainer.	16
6	Glass guide. Set: upper and lower.	0.7 mp
7	Confirmation plug, self-adhesive.	2
8	Minifix plug, self-adhesive.	2
9	Self-adopted decorative film "ORAKAL", "DC-FIX" width of 0.8 m.	0.9 mp
10	Self 3.5x16	32

Mastery mastering

Learn to make tongue compounds, accelerating the manufacture of durable furniture.
Find out how a simple plywood pattern helps to place the lamella connections.

Drinking tongs and spikes

Note. Usually in such connections, the depth of the tongue and the length of the spikes are equal to 10 mm. Since the side frames and the door of this cabinet-showcase are experiencing significant loads due to large glasses, we increased the length of the spikes and the depth of the tongue to 12 mm to give them additional strength. Whatever to simplify and speed up the manufacture, cover, shelf and the bottom have the same design and manufactured in the same way. And for greater accuracy and to avoid re-tuning, all the details in which connections to the spool and the comb are used, we treated alternately in one reception.

1. For the sizes specified in the "list of materials", cut the side racks BUTCrosschains IN and Mountains FROM, longitudinal and transverse framework details F, G for bottom, covers and shelves, as well as racks Q., Nizhnyh R.Middle S. and top T. Door crossbars. With chalk, deliver listers denoting each item. Put the inner edges of the parts before drinking the tongs A, B, F, G, Q, R and T, as well as both edges of the details FROM and S (Fig. 1; 1b.; 2; 2a; 6.and 6a).Save several trimming of the same thickness to configure the saw machine.

2. Drink in the details in the center of the marked edges of the width sheet, corresponding to the thickness of plywood fillets. To do this, lift the groove disk to a height of 12 mm above the saw table and place the longitudinal focus so that the disk passed in the middle of the trim edge (this can be done on the eye without resorting to measurements). Make one pass, expand the trim by the ends by 180 ° and make another pass. Then, gradually putting a longitudinal focus to the disk with minimum step, drink in trimming sheets, not forgetting to deploy and make a second pass, until they are tightly entering 6 mm plywood. Now you can cut the tongs in all parts. Raise the disc to a height of 51 mm and make two additional passages to deepen the spool in the top door crossbar T.. In order for all the tongs to have the same width, especially on long details, press the parts tightly to the thrill with the comb.

Partially closing the groove disk wooden lining Longitudinal stop and using longitudinal emphasis as a limiter, and cross-stop with a lining as a pusher, form the spikes at the ends of the crossbar in, C, G, R, S, T.

3. To make short spikes on the crossbars in, s, g, r, s, t (Fig. 1; 1b.; 2; 2a; 6.and 6b)install a 16 mm thick slot disc into the saw blade, partially closing it with a wooden lining of the longitudinal stop. On a test trimming, feeding it with a transverse (angular) stop, drink a short spike in the middle of the end, making one pass on each side, and adjust the disk departure so that the ridge is tightly entering the sheets of racks. Then use longitudinal focus as a length limiter to cut down 12-millimeter spikes at the ends of all crossbar (Photo a).

Assembling body details

Spread the parts of the sidewall A / B / C / D using the slope of 51 mm wide for installation and alignment of the upper and lower bars. V. The photo shows the lower.

1. Drink Pilenki D. And finally polish them. Drying (without glue) Connect the bottom and middle crossbar B, S. With two stands BUTTo check the fitting of the connections. Then, from the trimming of a thickness of 18 mm, cut two spacers with a width of 51 mm, the length of which is equal to the distance between the crossbars. Now glue the sidewalls, fixing them with clamps (Fig. 1),having installed a spacer on top and bottom to align crossbars In (photo B).Make sure the build rectangles.

2. Insert the milling mill in the milling mill for folder with a width of 6 mm and select False for the Lower TO And top L. rear walls on the inside on rear edge Both sidewalls (Fig. 1).

By making one pass to a 6-millimeter fold mill, replace its 12 mm and remove the remaining material by associated milling.

3. Removing the wall of the tongue on the inside of the collected sidewalls, make folds for glass and strokes E.. In order not to occur chips, use a fold mill with the same settings as in the previous step. Put the sidewall on the workbench inner up. Making sure that the cutter bearing relies on the lower (outer) wall of the tongue and does not concern the surface of the workbench, completely delete inner wall Shpunta. If necessary, to put under the sidewall of the cutting of the boards, which would create a gap between the cutter bearing and the workbench. By securingly fixing the assembly of clamps, confidently hold the milling mill, so that the method of associated milling is carefully removed first half the wall with a cross section of 6 × 12 mm. Then with the help of a milling cutter for folds 12 mm wide (or putting a smaller diameter replaceable bearing) Complete the formation of folds (Photo from).Conduct the corners of an acute chisel.

4. If you make a wardrobe with shelves, mark the centers of the holes for the power holders, as indicated on fig. 1C.Population 6-mm drill in the cartridge drilling machine, Install the stop so to align the axis of the drill with the centers of the holes. Drill holes, maintaining a part of the sidewall with the help of an additional support with an additional support.

5. Refrigerate the blanks for the stroke E.. Shorten four blanks for lateral staps until the final length (Fig. 1),and from the remaining workpiece, make the upper and lower staps. Drill through holes in the strokes using a thin finishing nail-pin with a hatching head instead of drill. Finally polish strokes.

6. Drink Pilenki N. For the lid, shelves and bottom on the specified sizes and finally polish them. Pre-check the fit of the dry assembly, and then glue three identical panel panels F / G / H (Fig. 2).Make sure the shleck rectangles.

Clamps fasten the plywood pattern on the collected sidewall, move the lake milling mill to it, align the central tags and feed the sockets.

7. From 19 mm plywood Make a template (Fig. 1a)to position the lamellar mill when sampling the sockets in the sidewalls and markup of the same sockets on the edges of the lid, shelves and the bottom. Call the bottom and shelf fastening sockets (Fig. 1, photoD.). Then lock the edge of the template at a distance of 70 mm from the top of the racks. BUT And make the slots for the cover. Finally polish the sidewalls, without affecting the edges of the front racks, so that there are no gaps between them and the facade frame.

8. By template, mark the centers of the nests on the edges of the lid, shelves and the bottom. Configure the stop of a lamellar mill so that the nests are located in the middle of the thickness of the parts. Splind nests (Fig. 2).Finally polish the details of the frames. So that they snapped tightly with other parts of the housing, do not grind their edges.

Manufacture of housing

1. Stick, inserting lamellas in the socket, bottom and shelf to one of the sidewalls (photo E),fix the clamps and wait for the glue drying. Then take the cover of the lid (PhotoF.) and also seek a gluing. Now add the second sidewall (PhotoG.).

Using a plywood pattern at the same time as a spacer and mounting kit, stick to one of the sidewalls bottom and shelf, without forgetting to insert slaughters in the socket.

Rearrange the template on the top of the sidewall and, inserting the lamella, stick the cover into place.

2. Drink the front frame rack I., And on the crossbar] Leave the allowance of 25 mm in length. Dry sample details to determine the final side of the crossbar (Photo H),and liberate them in length.

Install the template between the bottom and the shelf to ensure the perpendicularity of the assembly, and glue the second sidewall into place, inserting the lamella and fixing the clamps.

Press the clamps to the body one rack i, cut to it the end of the crossbar j, set the second rack i and mark the final length of the crossbar.

3. Splind the nests for lamellae in the front edges of the front racks A (Fig. 1)and the same nests on the back of the racks of the facade frame I (Fig. 3).Then make the nests on the inner edges of the racks and the ends of the crossbar of the facade frame J..

4. Stick, inserting lamellas in the socket, one facade rack I. Side Stand BUTthen add crossbars J. And finally, the second facade rack (Photo I).Fix gluing clamps.

Enclose with flat wigs-lamella challenges J to second rack I. Then glue these parts to the first rack I and the side stand A, also using the lamella.

5. To die incomplete fillets (cartle) along the external edges of the front racks I (Fig. 4), First, prepare four stopper from trimming with a length of 108 mm. Clamps attach the stoppers to the upper and lower ends of the side racks BUT And throw out filters (PhotoJ.). To avoid arsalum and chipping, pick each twist for two passages. After that, finally cast a facade frame.

Make incomplete fillets-cartel with a radius of 10 mm along the edge of each rack I. At the beginning and end of the pass, the cutter bearing must rest in the stopper stop.

6. Put the bottom TO and top L. Rear walls (Fig. 4)and finally polish them.

Add the base and cornice

1. Drink the billet M.. Evilver along the top edge rounding with a radius of 10 mm with a ledge (the so-called "marigold") (Fig. 4a).

2. So that the texture drawing on the surrounding body parts of the base looked continuous, drink a piece for the front board from the middle of the workpiece. Its length should be greater than 50 mm width. Scrap on one end of the front board, as well as on the front ends of both side boards. Mark the exact length of the front board (photo K)and liberate the second SCOS. Then mark the length of the lateral baseboards (PhotoL.) and liberate their rear ends to the final length.

Align the heel of the front of the front baseboard with external angle Racks I facade frame. Mark the heel of the bevel on the other end of the baseboard.

Fixing the front baseboard on the spot, dock the side part of the base and secure both parts by painting scotch. Note the length of the sideboard on the rear side stand A.

3. Follow the arcuate cutout on the front board of the base (Fig. 4),drink it ribbon saw or electric lobby and pollip the contour. Then finally pass the front and side basements and glue them to the housing, fixing the clamps.

4. Drink blanks for frieze N., Karnisa ABOUT and Kaleevki. R. Call a 6-mm fillet on the workpiece of frieze and a 10-mm filler on the bilning (Fig. 4b).Make on the front side of the workpiece for Kalevka cutting a depth of 3 mm and describe the bevel along the bottom edge. Then make in the blanks N and R. Shallow propelles serving traps for excess glue. Finally pass away each workpiece, and then glue them together, fixing the clamps (Fig. 5, photo mand N.).

Working on a flat surface, glue and press the clamps of the frieze board n to the cornice board oh, aligning the backs and ends of both billets.

When glued together, the billets N, oh dry, stick to the place of decorative profile-Kalevka R.

5. From the middle of the gluing, drink a piece for the front of the cornice, the length of which should be equal to the width of the body with a 22 mm viscosity. Then, as well as in the manufacture of the base, describe the SCOS, Sample, mark and describe the parts until the final length. Glue the cornice to the body, pressing parts by clamps (Fig. 4).

Collect the door

1. Take the door details again. Q, R, S and T. With the help of flexible pamal, mark on the upper crossbar T. arc. Drink the arc with a ribbon saw or an electric lobby and smoothly span.

2. Drink Filenka U. And polish it. Dry the door to check the fit of all parts (Fig. 6).Then glue the door, fixing the clamps, and make sure it is rectangles.

Apply glue into a thin chips or a small brush glue into the depth of the sheets of the rack Q and the upper crossbar of T, then insert the triangular weaving V.

3. To strengthen the thin walls of the deep tongue at the bottom of the upper crossbar T. and strengthen the compounds between it and racks Q., drink from 6 mm. Kosinki triangular plywood V.shown by fig. 6,and hide them in place (Photo o).

4. Manually driving a milling mill, make a 6-millimeter rounding edges along the external front ribs ("Nogot") (Fig. 6and 6b).Then install a fold mill in the collet and select 10-mm folds on the external edges from the back (Fig. 6and 6C).

Collect the roundings at the top ends of both side strokes in accordance with the radius of the upper rounds of the folds.

5. To install glass and strokes E. Remove milling the inner wall of the tongue only on the racks Q. and medium crossbar S (Fig. 6),using the same techniques as in the manufacture of sidewalls. Start and complete the passage of the cutter in the top crossbar connections T. with stands Q.. Cut the chisel to the corner only at the bottom of the fold. Drink the strokes of the required length and pass the top ends in accordance with the upper roundings of the fold (photo P).Using a finishing nail with a hatching head, drump over the holes in the strokes, and then seel.

6. Clamp in the cartridge of the drill machine drill with a diameter of 5 mm and drill the mounting hole for the knob buttons. Then the brown of the forstner with a diameter of 19 mm make a hole for the cylinder of the postal lock. (You can do without a lock, if you make a wardrobe to store not too valuable or dangerous items.) Putting the housing on the front side, position the loop on the rack. I. Facade Rama (Fig. 4),drill guide holes and secure loops with screws. Put the door on the body and lock it. Acting from the inside of the case, drill the guide holes in the door rack Q.. Remove the door and remove the hinges from the case. Finally get enough door.

Make two retractable tray

1. Of the 18 mm boards, drink the front and rear walls W., and from 12 mm - side walls X.. We used topol wood. Then to form connections (Fig. 7and 7a)perform a three-step operation (Fig. 8).Drink the sheets to insert the bottom Y..

2. Drink the bottom Y. For each of the trays. Dry trays dry to check the detail fit. Disassemble them and pass the bottom, as well as the inner sides of all walls W, X.. Spread trays and make sure of their rectangles. When the glue dries, polish the external sides of the trays.

3. Drink carrier strips Z. For pull-out guides. Stick two of them to sidewall racks BUT and facade frame I. In the internal front corners of the case (Fig. 9).At the back of the housing, there are carrier barns so that they coincide with the last mounting hole in the ball retractable guides. Glue the rear bearing bar to the sidewall rear racks, fixing them with clamps.

Make a rifle counter details

Note. If you make a regular wardrobe, go directly to the next section "Case Finish and Steel Installation".

1. glue a wide bottom blank AA From 18 mm boards and describe to the specified sizes. Follow the centers of 50 mm holes (Fig. 10).Clamp in the cartridge drilling machine forstner drill and drill holes. Connect the edges of the holes by tangent lines and make cutouts with an electrolovka. Smoothly polish the edges of cutouts with a grinding drum. Ellipping rounding with a radius of 6 mm around the perimeter of cutouts from the top. Then install the other mill and make a quilt fillet with a radius of 10 mm on the front edge of the base. Now install a groove disk into the saw machine, adjust its departure in accordance with the recess for the Pilenka N in the shelf and drink the fold along the ends and the rear edges. Finally pass the finished base.

2. For top comb BBHolding rifle trunks, drink a blank with a size of 18x76x800 mm. Follow the centers of the holes (Fig. 10),insert the throttle of the throttle of the driver with a diameter of 38 mm in the cartridge and make holes. Collect the workpiece to the final length from both ends. To turn holes into cuts, spend two tangent lines from each hole to the front edge, make feeds with an electrolovka or tape saw, and then thoroughly pass the edges of cuts using a small grinding drum. Splind roundings with a radius of 6 mm from above and below. Finally polish the top comb.

Enclosure and installation of glass

1. Carefully inspect all the details and additionally polish the places that need it. Apply a colorless finish. (We used the oil-varnish polish, which was applied three times with a rubony using a tampon. More about this is told in the article "Guaranteed error-free finish".)

2. Order in the specialized workshop glass for the door and sidewalls (Fig. 1and 6). For the usual and showcase, they will also need glass shelves and mirror back (Fig. 4C).We asked to round and polish the edges of the shelves, as well as process sharp edge mirrors.

3. Put the chassis of the message, laying up a soft lining, insert the glass and adjacent the strokes in place (Photo Q). Turn the housing to the other side and insert the glass into the second sidewall.

Protect the glass with a piece of dense cardboard and climb the nails to the headpoint guide holes E. The hammer head should slide in the cardboard.

4. Put the inverted door on the soft lining. Insert the glass into the fold by moving around his top edge under the protruding corners in the top of the top crossbar T.. Secure the strokes E. Small nails.

Build showcase

1. Doing the weapon showcase, set the base AA Ruzhina rack. Drill down holes through the frame details G. and screws fix the base on the shelf (Fig. 4).For screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm, the diameters of the mounting and guide holes must be 4 and 2.8 mm, respectively.

2. Disconnect the retractable guides. Attach the housing parts to the carrier boards Z (Fig. 9),and boxes - to retractable trays (Fig. 7).Slide trays into the case.

3. Replace the bottom TO and top L. Rear walls, fixing their clamps. Drill holes for screws and, if a gun showcase is made, screw the screws. For a regular showcase, winding windows, check the position top edge back detail Shelves F. On the inside of the upper wall. Attach the bottom wall in place with screws. Remove the top back and put it on smooth surface inner up. Stick the mirror to it using a special adhesive sealant. Align the side indents, and the lower edge of the mirror is aligned with the marked shelf line. When glue hardens, attach screws to the top back of the housing.

4. To install a bodily comb BB First prepare a pair of spacers with a length of 895 mm. Then put one end of each spacer for the base AA. Start a strip of two-way tape on the back side of the hard comb, put the item on the top ends of the spacer and press to the top back wall L.. Drill the guide holes on the back side and attach the comb to the rear wall, screwing the screws (Fig. 4).

5. To install the lamps inside the cabinet, drill in the lid N. Through holes with a diameter of 19 mm (Fig. 11)and fasten the lamps with screws into place. Connect the dimmer and connect the wires according to the instructions. Remove the protective film from the adhesive layer on the back of the dimmer and glue it to the back side of the top back wall L. At its edge. (Subsequently, when installing the case to the selected place at the wall, leave a sufficient gap between it and the wall for your fingers.)

6. Attach the hinges to the case and set the door. Enclose silicone dampers (usually included in the hinge kit) in the fold on the opposite edge of the door opposite each loop (Fig. 6).Install the knob and lock (for the conventional cabinet-showcase it is optional).

7. And in complete insert the sidewalls into the holes (Fig. 4C).Now you can install glass shelves.

Such showcases will suit both the store in which small things are sold to the review, and for the content of any home collection, for example, for aircraft, cars, ships.

All glass showcases are different only dimensions, and the design is the same. Make such a showcase with your own hands does not take any time and the work is not so complicated as it seems.

Design and materials for the manufacture of display cases

All 18 showcases have different sizes (the largest - 1145x485x560 mm, and the smallest - 380x180x255 mm). The base of each showcase is the platform, sheathed by jewelry suede. The smallest cross section of the framework for glass - 16 × 16 mm.

Wooden styre parts are carved out of 25 mm dry boards. Food blanks are processed on the drum grinding machine to exact sizes. For these shop windows, it is recommended to use a glass of 4 mm thick. When cutting the glass had to withstand the necessary dimensions with an accuracy of up to 1 mm.

Details of the shop windows

To ensure the necessary accuracy and facilitate the subsequent assembly, most of the same type of parts were treated "in the package".

The upper and lower jumpers are unpilled by length, then in the ends each drilled holes for the waders.

The protruding ends of the inclined ducts are unpolent at an angle of 45 °. In the upper and lower ends of the side sides, the corresponding holes for the jumpers ducts are drilled.

For brakes in racks and jumpers (from the inner sides of the frame assembly) selected longitudinal grooves 4 mm depth.

Drawings of a glass showcase

Build glass showcase

To the assembly, all the inner surfaces of the details of the frames were covered with three layers of acrylic varnish.

It makes it easier to remove excess silicone sealant with White-spirits when installing glass and avoids varnish on glass.

Transparent silicone sealant It is applied to the groove with a gun and is distributed there, for example, a nail.

The first frames are gather - the grooves are inserted into the parts, and the frames, after checking rectangles, the diagonals are measured for a day, tightening them with scotch.

Then, the parts of the end frames with the inserted glasses are similar to the side frames and install the top glass.

Assembly of the glass box is finished, it is fixed with adhesive tape.

When the glue freezes, the chamfer is removed on the upper external edges of the top frame parts, the box is shreding manually and covered with three layers of acrylic varnish.

The platform consisting of a support frame, corner legs and boots and plates from MDF thickness of 15 mm, is collected on the glue.

The details of the frame are filled into size and shaking with amplification. corner connections Flat with spamps "biscuits".

The plates of each platform are saved by a jewelry suede that cuts a flush with side edges, and is attached to the frames of the platforms with double-sided adhesive tape.

On the bottom of the side, the joint between the slab and the frame is amplified by the absorbed wooden blocks. In them, the places are chosen for the protruding from the corner of the Biscuit.

The manufacture of a large number of showcases was responsible, but monotonous work. However, they turned out beautiful, and I was pleased with the results of my work.

J.defor, Switzerland

Before proceeding with the direct assembly of the trading section, it is necessary to determine with the dimensions of the future showcase? The number of sections will be installed on the basis or just stand on the floor. Then you need to make a sketch indicating all sizes. After that, order or chop glass with a ground edge itself. Grinding edge will warn you from possible cuts in the process of assembly and operation. The next stage is the purchase of fittings. Since you are reading this article, I think you should be visited in the section "where you can find different types Accessories. You can always buy all sorts of fittings on our website at a reasonable price.
There are fundamentally two different types Accessories: plastic "glass showcases" and metallic with fixation " Metal connector "Four views in each cross, tee, corner, tie . Brackets can also be different color, mostly white or black, but also there are other colors. For more convenient count need quantity And types of brackets, it is best to use a sketch. Next, you will need materials for the base of the rack, most often it is a podium from LDSP height from 35 to 100mm or a bedside table from 250mm. Of course, you can make a showcase by purchasing all necessary materials and details. The problem is that in addition to the time spent to order and the assembly, you may need additional materials In the process of assembly, because for the first time you calculate the exact number of components are quite problematic. Plus to everything, in the process of assembly, you can incorrectly cut the glass or accidentally break it, hitting the stake by hitting the hammer. No catastrophe, of course not, but sweat and spend a large number of Time will have to

An example of possible modifications "Glass Cubes" you can see in the section and window glass . How to issue individual order Or just ask us the question you can find.

An example of one of our works.

1) All sizes are discussed with the customer, and a sketch is drawn.

In our case, these are two identical showcases. Common size of one showcase: width 1450mm, depth 370mm, height 1780mm. On the sketch one showcase 20 cells, i.e. 4 x 5 squares of which are 16pcs. 350x350mm and 4pcs. 250x350mm. Both showcases on the podium from LDSP 370x1450x100mm to the depth added 30mm (15mm from two sides) to 50mm width. (15mm per three bracket in the middle and about 35mm in half into two sides).

2) cutting and grinding glass. Production of a box. Furnitura.

Take 5 mm glass, cut 56pcs. 350x350mm and 16pcs size. The size of the 350x250mm is then grinding them. Glass is better to make a little more about the reserve.

The LDSP box consists of 5 parts of those interconnected with furniture screed + edge and legs "American" 6pcs. on the podium.

One showcase left the following number of brackets:
Cross - 24pcs.
Tees - 22pcs.
Corners - 8pcs.
Santers - 5pcs.

3) assembly showcases.

Initially, it is necessary on the box (standing at a distance of 30-40cm from the wall) to put four glasses in a row, or measure the dimensions of the glass, be sure to consider the step of brackets between the glasses (approximately 5mm.)and sew the first row of brackets.

In our case, we used. After the first row is applied to build. At first, we insert the glass into the grooves vertically, then add brackets to the far row and on one glass falling into the grooves, install horizontal glasses (roof of the first row). By adding the near left bracket to add the regiment to keep in three points and so on. After the first row is assembled by the rear walls, it is necessary to use 3.5x30mm black screws (go bundled C for reliable taping the back of the bracket. After that, collect the following row in the same sequence.

Advice.

If the glass is tight, then you can lubricate it with a simple or soapy water and gently pour a rubber tip with a rubber tip. And also if plastic brackets are better to have several nasty of different shapes And long to maintain the breakdown and defects of casting interfering free glass in the groove.

4) Washing showcase and shifting the wall, if necessary.

The showcase is wiping and washes as well as normal glass: Means for washing the glasses, then wet rag, then dry. It is best to first wash the showcase, then move it to the wall.
It is best to shift a similar showcase in three: two on the sides simultaneously move it to the wall, and the third holds the design, insuring from unwanted stepling.

So an example of one of ready work On photohrophy below.