An extension to the house of foam blocks is a phased process. An extension of foam blocks an extension to a wooden house from aerated concrete blocks

The decision to make an extension may be destructive for the foundation of the main house. Often, inexperienced, people laid the wrong foundation and already a few months later, cracks appear between the house and the extension.

The article describes the process of erection of an extension to the house of foam blocks with all possible errors and advice, how to extend the term of its ministry. How to make window and door jumpers and what danger suggests when planning a wider than 1.75 m.

In conclusion, you will find several ideas for finishing and using an attached room.

Why many attacks to the house are performed from foam blocks

Most people, when choosing a material for an extension, increasingly inclined to the use of foam blocks. They have pluses and cons, but more advantages. The main advantages of the properties of foam blocks:

Even the unprofessional builder will cope with the laying. Due to this, you can save on the involvement of specialists and perform an extension yourself from beginning to end;
The speed of laying - the adhesive solution between foam blocks dry out a much faster of the concrete solution;
The material fireproof - does not support combustion and does not burn;
The minimum precipitate is ensured by the porous structure;
Ecology - the composition is safe for nature;
The porosity of the material also provides low heat resistivity - masonry from foam blocks in 2 rows can not be insulated;
The deadline for the ministry of buildings from foam blocks reaches 50 years and more.
The loose structure of the blocks allows you to cut them with a hacksaw, but it is better to use a circular saw;
Structural strength - a plastered wall of foam blocks difficult to break through the attackers;
Thanks to the light, you can use for construction on all types of soils and save on a powerful foundation;
Low cost compared to brick.

Inssentual disadvantages of the material:

The large influence of atmospheric influences on the material require the construction of structures in dry and warm weather and finishing or waterproofing after the structure;
The appearance attractiveness is permissible only for Loft style, which is not very common in the country.

Step 1: Planning

At this stage, the conditions for construction are studied: soil, the material of the house and its age. The project of an extension taking into account the storeys, the number of windows, the presence of doors and stairs is being developed.

The composition of the soil determines the form of the future foundation. For example, on clay soil with a similar location of groundwater, it is reasonable to make a floating foundation. Otherwise, a few months after the construction, the extension will begin to move away from the house. On earthworks or stony soils there is a fairly tape foundation with an amendment for shrinkage.

It is possible to build an extension of foam blocks to a wooden, brick and clay house. The process of construction will be fastening the mortgage on the junction. Old houses were more deeply asked to the ground. Therefore, the age of the house determines the magnitude of the deformation seam - the distance to which the extension should be asked to be compared with the main structure.

The desire to make a two-story extension from foam blocks is better to implement partially - it weighs a lot and strongly affects the sediment. In this case, 2 floors are made of chipboard (chipboard). Economical and safe option, but the final solution depends on the analysis of the conditions of construction and the desire of the owners of the house.

Before construction:

A project of a future extension is being developed;
Denoted by deformation seam;
The amount of foam blocks, cement, consumables are calculated;
The place of temporary storage of building materials is prepared.

Step 2: Select the type of foundation

The main types of foundations, which are used in the construction of an extension of foam blocks:

Tape - A strip of reinforced concrete along the perimeter of the construction, it is used if a garage or basement is planned in the extension. For the construction of a one-story extension of foam blocks, a small-breeding foundation is at a depth of 50-70 cm. For a two-storey-beaten - blurred with a 20-30 cm embarrassment below the depth of the soil;
Columnar- the system of the pillars in the places of high load on the ground, suitable for easy panoramic extensions for the construction of immovable and non-empty soils;
Pile- A variety of columnar foundation, but using large metal pillars. Withstands the weight of 2-5 tons, used in the construction of high buoyancy on soils;
Slab - Monolithic cooker plate as the base of the whole house.

In private construction, when erecting additional buildings, a tape or slab foundation is often used.

Step 3: Filling the foundation

There are 2 options for binding the foundations of the house and an extension: rigid when the foundation of the new construction is adjacent to the old, and using a deformation seam. Hard applied with a recent building of the house, which only ended the period of shrinkage. Not used if clay prevails in the soil. Perform a deformation seam simply, economically and suitable for inexperienced builders.

The rigid compound of foundations is formed between the following types of foundations:

"Tape-tape" - Cropped part of the foundation of the house with a length of 1.5-2 m, the sand pillow is stacked, an armature of 12-14 mm is driven at the bottom of the base, the extension frame is formed;
"Plate-stove"- Used in the presence of protrusions from the base, which are made during the construction of the house of foam blocks. The base of the houses under the house should perform at least 30 cm - in this case, the reinforcement is broken, binds to the plane of the extension.

The deformation seam is more reliable, reduces the risk of destructive precipitation. An extension is built on a separate foundation next to the house. It is better to use a closed base loop. Between the bases and around the perimeter of the new foundation are stacked the rubberoid sheets. When using this option, the extext does not hurt the foundation of the house.

The ideal option - if the foundation of the extension was laid during the fill of the foundation of the whole house and temporarily layered with waterproofing.

Step 4: Construction of walls

The placement of gas-silicate blocks begins on the angle of extension:

The bottom of the foam blocks for better adhesion with the connecting solution is moistened;
The first 2-3 rows are additionally protected by a waterproof composition for protection against capillary moisture;
Before applying the next layer of the solution, the top of foam blocks is moistened;
The first row is stacked using the level if there are small irregularities - the quality of the masonry will suffer;
Outdoor masonry is taken to perform with the use of adhesive solution - layers between blocks are obtained less than 2-3 mm, due to which the total area of \u200b\u200b"cold bridges" decreases and the weight of the extension is reduced. Internal partitions can be done using a concrete solution to save money;
The preparation of the mixture is painted on the glue packs, it is applied to the horizontal base of the unit moistened in the water, and after - to vertical;
The horizontal surface of the masonry is aligned with the grinding grinding. Dust is sweeping or removed by the construction vacuum cleaner.

Each 4 rows of masonry in the corners fit fittings for ligaments to build and prevent cracks. With the use of a circular saw, a square is made with sides of 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm. The groove for laying of reinforcement is knocked out with a hammer and chisel. The space around the reinforcement is sealed with adhesive solution.

Step 5: Jumpers for doors and windows

The desire to make a panoramic veranda in the extension of foam blocks faces the problem of the maximum possible width of the day of 1.75 m. A large load exceeds the foam block strength. For such cases, silicate bricks or slag blocks are used in construction.

When calculating the height of the jumpers, the thickness of the floor is taken into account - it increases due to the laying of the warm floor, alignment, the creation of tiers.

The jumpers are made with a removable or non-replaceable formwork.

In the first version follow the instructions:

Frames are made from the reinforcement of the required length;
Supporting bars are installed with 2 sides of the side, to the horizontal formwork from the "Socketon" shields are attached;
Foam blocks are poured in length to lay the inner surface of the formwork;
The frame of the reinforcement is placed inside, the side is located with a large number of twigs. The design is attached to the struts;
The blocks are repeatedly moistened for better clutch, poured with a solution of concrete on the inside of the face and compacted;
The flooded surface is aligned with the level of masonry and loads.

In the manufacture of jumpers with the beaming formwork use U-shaped blocks. This is a more expensive option, but it saves construction time. The following actions are performed for installing U-blocks:

At the top of the face, the blocks are put in the corners with a 25 cm-cut-cut;
Using the level, irregularities are eliminated on the horizontal surfaces of the supports;
The U-block is installed on a conventional adhesive solution by opening up;
The frame of the reinforcement is stacked from above, a larger number of rods are concentrated below. The design is rigidly fixed by struts;
Each layer of masonry from foam blocks over the jumper is compacted using cells.

When installing windows, contact your nearest bank in advance to get "warm clutters". The state compensates part of the cost of energy-saving windows. Usually, the amount reaches 10% - for this money you can order the shelter of white metal-plastic windows with lamination under the tree.

Step 6: Reinforced belt to increase the bearing capacity of walls

The belt from the rod of reinforcement provides an extension protection against wind loads and increases the bearing ability of the walls. It is made in the process of construction, immediately on the walls due to the high weight. For mounting the reinforcement belt make the following:

In the prepared wooden patterns in the corners of the row, reinforcement rods are stacked. Frames are welded with each other and align;
The reinforcement belt is laid by the longitudinal strips of foam blocks, chopped with a circular saw;
The template is well wetted and poured with a mortar from concrete.

The formation technology of the reinforced belt resembles the installation of the jumpers.

Step 7: Roof

The overlap is made a few days after laying the upper reinforced belt when concrete strength increases. For foam unit, plates from aerated concrete or wooden frame are used as overlapping. In the second embodiment, all elements are covered with compositions to protect against fire, pests, tribe.

As the roof most popular and attractive metal tile, but slate is used. For the construction of a flat roof for a warm extension follows the instructions:

The carrier beams are installed around the perimeter;
From above, a layer of boards is stacked, a 15 cm in 15 cm is stacked or tol;
The next layer is a dense layer of clay (porous pebbles of reddish-brown color), check that there was a small slope towards the flow of precipitation;
Pouring the insulation layer with a solution of cement;
Treatment of the screed of bituminous primer, laying the runnerdoor.

If the width of the roof for an extension does not exceed 6 m, it uses a ram with a cut 15 * 10 cm.

For the arrangement of the roof of monolithic concrete slabs, alcohol steel beams are used as supports. For the span of the roof in 5 m, the beams are 15 cm. Recommended concrete brand - 250.

Concrete mixer is used to achieve proper consistency of concrete. The composition of the solution is rubble with a grain grain of 20 mm and Cement PC-400. The solution is mixed in the following proportions: 3 parts of cement, 4 pieces of sand, 2 parts of water. If necessary, water is gradually added to the concrete mixer.

The boards are attached to the bottom of the beams, rubberoid rushes from above. The next layer is a reinforced profile grid with a diameter of less than 1 cm and cells of the cells 20 * 20 cm. What to predict in the future repair of a flat roof, the rod rods in the places are mounted with a knitted wire. In some cases, glue can be used. The main thing is that the grid does not slide when pouring the screed.

Before the formation of a screed, a fine crushed stone is falling asleep under the grid. At the same time, the gap 4 cm for the separation of the grid and the rubberoid canvas.

It is best to fully pour all parts of the roof in one day. It is undesirable to fill the roof over one or more bands. This will improve the quality of work. After filling, concrete is trambed manually or using special equipment. During the coupling, you need to closely monitor the position of the grid - it should not shift, break or slip. At the final stage, the construction is covered with polyethylene film. This will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the surface at elevated temperature and retain the top layer from cracks.

Concrete is kept under the film from 3 days. Fully dry concrete overlap fenced with a layer of insulating materials. The bias towards the rolling of future precipitation is taken into account. At the end at the final stage, the final screed is made, mounting a rolled carpet. If desired, the monolithic roof is additionally insulated before the shelter of metal tile.

Step 8: External and Interior Decoration

At the end of the construction of an extension, it is insulated by the panels of foam. Insulation is made from the outside so that the dew point is not inside the design. Polyfoam is placed in one or two rows around the perimeter of an extension using standard technology.

Outside the walls are separated by plastering with painting, siding, block-khis, decorative stone.

The peculiarity of foam blocks is that during the construction of them it turns out a fairly flat wall and for its interior decoration is enough plaster and painting. Several ideas for interior trim:

Without the use of external finishing, you need to protect the annex with a waterproofing layer. Otherwise, foam blocks are impregnated with moisture and starts gradually collapse.

Conclusion

An extension of foam blocks is an economical version of the rapid expansion of the living space. If desired, such a structure can be erected independently in 2-3 weeks. The main thing is to analyze the conditions for construction in advance and competently draw up the project.

As for the house, it is also necessary to make a foundation for an extension. Therefore:

I make markup of the foundation of an extension. Base markups do with wooden peg and cord. The correctness of the angles check by comparing the dimensions of the diagonals.
Establish to the ruin of the trench of the extension. The countdown of the depth of the pit starts with the lowest point of the soil.
Next, I make a pillow under the foundation of an extension. Sand and crushed stone at a height of about 15-20 cm and carefully tumped up.

I make a formwork from wooden boards, a thick plywood can come up. Formwork is done throughout the perimeter of the foundation. After formwork, I begin to make reinforcement from reinforcement rods.
Bulk boilers concrete. I do it in a phased approximately 20 cm concrete on stage 1. The higher the base is made, the more layers should be.
The field of how the pouring concrete is complete, make several punctures in the foundation so that air can enter it.

Features of laying the foundation of an extension

A feature of laying the base of the extension is a bunch of a new foundation with the old, with the basis of the house. My house stands on a belt base, therefore, and under the extensions from aerated concrete, a ribbon foundation is false. Despite the fact that the walls will be made of gas blocks, and easier by weight.

In the old basis, drill a hole with a diameter of a little more than the reinforcement rods that are planned to use for a ligament.
The depth on which the holes need to drill is equal to (Ø reinforcement 12mm × 35 \u003d 420 mm). Fit length of the depth of drilling × 2 \u003d 840 mm.

I define how many rods need a new base: 5 rods of reinforcement on a quarter of one meter square wall of the foundation.
I scoring the rods in the holes and the free end of the wing nut. This end during the work will board the concrete in the new base and give a strong coupling.

Next, proceed to the construction of the reinforcing frame of the foundation of the extension to the house from the gas block. To do this, I will need rebar of reinforcement (Ø 12 mm), and the welding machine. Next, I make a crate from the boards and begin to fill the foundation of concrete.

Cement - 1 part M-300.
Clean sand - 1.9 parts.
Crushed stone medium - 3.7-hour. Instead of rubble, you can take washed gravel.

Cement consumption is 320 kg per 1 meter cubic.

The base is flooded with a concrete solution of an extension of aerated concrete to a wooden house. I gave him about 20 days.

My extension has the following parameters:

Perimeter base \u003d 30 meters
The depth of the foundation \u003d 1.6 meters.
The height of the foundation in the aboveground part, that is, above the ground level \u003d 0.4 meters.
Width \u003d 0.6 meters.
M-300 concrete brand

It took me to work:

Concrete \u003d 36 meters of cubic.
Cement \u003d 11520 kg.
Sand \u003d 21 tons.
Rubble \u003d about 40 tons.
Reinforcement rods 600 meters
Plaques for formwork (with a thickness of 25 mm) \u003d 6.6 meters of cubic.

Cost of materials:

Cement M-300 (50 kg) \u003d 220-240 rubles.
Sand (1 ton) \u003d 800rubles.
Crushed stone (1 ton) \u003d 870 rubles.
Armature (1M) \u003d 25 rubles.

I was pre-prepared reinforcement bars with a length of 30 cm.
Then, after every two or three rows of brick masonry, the old building was made by a hole hole in which these rods inserted an extension from aerated concrete to a brick house. The depth of these holes should be in the Pollipich.
The laying of new walls began with the corners.

For better hitch blocks with a solution, the lower part of the block was wetted with water. In order not to be in the further collection of capillary moisture. The first layer of masonry laid a waterproofing composition into two balls. Strictly watched it to be perfectly smooth as horizontally, so vertically.

Error aligned with a concrete solution. The thickness of the solution between the rows is approximately 2 mm.

Now I need to make a reinforced belt:

I make it on the wall itself.
I do a wooden template, laying the desired fit reinforcement rods.
These rods weld together.
Align horizontally, as well as on the axes.
I look out blocks cut in size.

The reinforcement of the foundation of an extension is placed on the bottom of the foundation, but that it does not concern the soil itself. So that in the future did not give up corrosion. It must be filled with completely monolith.

To make a distance of 2 mm, when laying the walls, you need to use a special adhesive solution for masonry.

Under the extension parameters of the above, an extension to the house of aerated concrete. I counted: I have one entrance door + one window. Added masonry thickness + thickness of the solution. And with the size of aerated concrete blocks 19 * 29 * 59. It took me 1002 pcs. blocks.

During the digging of the pit, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the walls of it are strictly vertical to the bottom, and the bottom is perfectly smooth.

Making a pillow under the base of the extension, sand and crushed stone is recommended to water water so that it was easier to ram.

operactions for windows and doors

At the end of the exercise of the extension you need to make a formwork removable or non-removable. Removable formwork is easier, so I chose it. To install it, I was used already a ready-made block in the form of the letter U. The opening itself installed blocks with a drank base. Its length is somewhere 20-25 cm.

U - the block put on the glue. Then the framework of the armature of the extension to the house from the gasoblock photo was very hard with the help of spacer. Further, u - the block was shaped with water and strengthened the design of the openings with concrete solution.

The final work includes the installation of roofs and finishing works:

For overlapping an extension used well-dried pine bars.
Beams, an extension to the house from the magazine video that were prepared in advance, raised on the walls.
Processed antiseptic beam pillows.
On the anchor put Ruberoid and brought up with beams, in which the hole was previously drilled. Tightened for reliability nuts and washers.
The bottom was laid plywood and boards. The space filled with thermal insulating material.

RESULTS

Thus, we looked at stages, how to make an extension for the house from the gas block. I hope that you have everything turned out correctly and the new premises will serve you not one dozen years!

An extension to the house of foam blocks is a simple and effective way to improve the external appearance of a private dwelling and expanding its useful area. Special technical techniques such blocks ensure their demand among individual developers.

Foam concrete blocks - easy to use building materials

The process of erection of attachments from the low complexity and ease of installation. Such blocks have a number of unique characteristics. We highlight the main:

Nonbitating (foam concrete products comply with fire safety standards).
Available cost (compared to wooden bars and bricks).
Environmental Safety.
The creation in a residential building is ideal for a person microclimate due to the ability of the material to breathe.
The cellular structure that provides a small thermal conductivity of the material.
A small mass (no need to equip the too powerful foundation, which reduces the exercise costs of the extension to the house) and convenient for work.
High strength and long operational deadlines (facilities from foam concrete are built by 50-70 years).
Material support for processing (drilling, cutting, fit under the specified dimensions).

An extension from foam blocks is allowed to erect on all types of soil. They are built even on very complex soils. The facilities you are interested in from foam concrete is allowed to be addicted to homes made from any materials. Foam concrete is almost not seated during operation. It distinguishes it from wooden buildings whose walls are significantly reduced in height. Another advantage of foam concrete blocks is the possibility of working with them without any special construction skills. Almost every homemade craftsman can attach a foam concrete structure to his dwelling, spending the minimum of time and time to such an operation.

We also note the shortcomings of the building materials under consideration. They are a bit. First, foam blocks look outwardly not very presentable. Therefore, after the construction of an extension, you will have to spend money on its high-quality finish. Secondly, foam concrete is characterized by increased hygroscopicity. This causes the need for an additional protection of the erected walls.

Independent design - professional engineers are not needed!

The project of the new facilitation master self-taught may well develop on their own. It is not necessary to invite specialists in the field of architecture for these purposes. The appearance of the extension must match the design of the main building. When designing it is important to do the following:

1. Competently calculate the load of the new structure to the soil. The power and type of the required foundation depends on its indicator.
2. Determine the option of illuminating an extension to provide the desired number of window openings and mounted them in optimal places.
3. To decide how many inputs should be in the extension. You can proceed only by one door, which will connect the main and additional facilities. And if desired, it is easy to make two exits (one - to the house, the second - to the street).
4. Decide on the need for additional noise and thermal insulation of a new structure, carrying out a water supply, electricity, sewage in it.

If it is rational to design additional facilities, given all the above, you will get to build a durable and convenient room in use.

Build the foundation and build the wall - the Master's business is afraid!

The issue of the construction of the foundation should be approached truly responsibly. The reliability of the structure under construction is dependent on the quality of the foundation. In addition, you need to correctly compare a new foundation with an already available under home. For an extension of foam concrete blocks, columnar, linear, pile-screw foundations are suitable. The latter are the most difficult in implementation. To equip them with their own hands, the usual home master is often unable. Linear bases are suitable for small and lightweight structures, for example, for autogaras, baths. An extension is most often installed on such a foundation to a wooden house of foam blocks. In other cases, it is desirable to do the same foundation as under the main structure.

The scheme of its arrangement is simple:

Digging the meter in the depth of the pit, fall asleep in it either a fine-stone mixture (the height of the layer is up to 20 cm).
On the pillow made of the headline. You can use another waterproofing material.
Mounted the reinforcement rods, fall asleep them with stones, pour a solution of concrete.

The columns that play the role of an extension can be combined with each other with wooden logs. But it is better to build an elementary formwork and pour it with a concrete mixture. As a result, you will get a sliding high-strength foundation. Do not forget to cover it with another layer of waterproofer.

The walls of the extension are always starting to mount from the corner. Laying of the first row foam blocks is made on the sandy cement construction mixture.

Important! All subsequent rows are stacked on special glue (sold in construction programgations), which are treated by the side and lower sides of the foam concrete products installed. To reduce the risk of cold bridges, the seam should be made with a maximum thickness of 1 mm. The first row of masonry must be performed perfectly smooth. To achieve this allows the laser level.

In every fourth row, experts advise to suck a small groove and put fittings into it. Such precaution will save the walls of the foam concrete extension from the formation of cracks. Note! Rows of blocks are mounted according to the standard dressing principle. The joints of individual products in the contacting lines should not coincide. The foam blocks discovering the length when the construction approaches the wall surface should be cut with the honeycomb. This process does not cause difficulties. Foam concrete is cut with minimal physical effort.

Finishing stages - a new building is almost ready!

Door and window openings in the built walls are equipped with steel special jumpers or special parts in the form of a Latin letter U. There is a small subtlety. U-shaped elements are mounted in cases where the width of the windows and doors does not exceed 170 cm. If this indicator is greater, it is necessary to install jumpers from steel according to such an algorithm:

1. Weld the reinforcement frames required by the length.
2. You feed on the sides of the door (window) open wooden bars. Mounted on top of a formwork design from board-forty. Be sure to install shields on the parties.
3. Split foam concrete products into small blocks of thicknesses and place them inside the formwork.
4. Mount the frame of the reinforcement, lock it with the struts of wood.
5. Water foam blocks with ordinary water, then on the perimeter of the walls pour concrete.
6. The concrete mix is \u200b\u200bnecessary to compact well, align and smooth out.

Details of the U-shaped configuration are mounted much easier and faster. Formwork for them is not needed. Mount on the sides of the opening of a foam block, in which it is done in advance about 0.25-meter support. Check the horizontality of the latter (it is recommended to use the hose level). If there is a need, grind the u-product and install it on the adhesive composition (the hole should look up). Then put the reinforcement, attach it, spill water. It remains to pour the design by several concrete layers, aligning and sealing each of them construction culmes.

To the attached garage, the shed, the economic premises had the maximum reliability, it is desirable to strengthen the wall of the structure from the inside with an additional reinforced belt. Work is simple. Prepare templates from wood, lay on them pieces of fittings of suitable length. Weld metal rods into a single skeleton. After that, fill the template pattern, wait for about 5-7 days.

Now you can start mounting overlaps. They will hold the roof of the construction of foam concrete. Overlapping is usually made from hollow concrete slabs, aerated concrete blocks or wood. Wood products should be mandatory to process bioc and flame retardant mixtures. The roof is erected by ordinary technology. Install wooden bars across the walls, make a rafter system, mount the crate and fill the selected coating. Council. Use metal tile, profiled sheets or similar light coatings.

Warming and refining a structure from foam blocks

The optimal option is when the extension will only adjoin the main structure (a house of wood, brick, stone) with the help of a deformation seam. But it can be rigidly bonded with him by joining steel rods headed to the old reinforcing framework. The gaps between the facilities are filled with mounting foam. Important moment. If an extension is done to a wooden house, it is better not to use foam. Instead, bring small bars to both sides of the additional facilities. They will close all the gaps.

The walls of the extension need to heat and give them an attractive appearance. For this, decorative foam panels are suitable, which after installation is covered with a thin plaster layer. Outside, an extension of foam concrete products is usually addressed by artificial stone or decorative plaster.

Many owners of private mansions, even the most spacious, after a while begin to feel the shortage of useful meters. In this case, an excellent option is an extension of the veranda to the house of foam block. Also, if you wish, you can easily equip an additional bedroom, boiler room or bathroom at such additional meters.

A good option for expanding the area of \u200b\u200bthe house is the extension of the veranda.

Benefits of foam concrete blocks

Foam concrete blocks are the perfect building material for those who decided to build a house on their own. Compared to other materials used for the construction of walls, foam concrete is notable. But at the same time he possesses a number of positive qualities, thanks to which foam concrete is popular among private developers.

Foam concrete blocks are notable for ease and simplicity. An ordinary hacksaw can cut them and give the necessary shape.
No skills are required to work with this material.
Foam concrete blocks can be easily transported.

Specialists determine the properties of the material and its commodity mark on the density of foam concrete. The lower the density, the higher the heat and sound insulation properties of foam concrete blocks.

In foam concrete, there is no cross-cutter as a delay concrete, so it does not absorb water.

The higher the density, the stronger the foam block. If a summer veranda is to be built, then it is better to choose more dense foam blocks, and blocks with a density coefficient lower are ideal for arranging the bathroom.

If for the construction of the veranda to choose between the blocks of foam concrete and aerated concrete, then according to fire resistance, environmental purity, sound and thermal insulation, these materials are equal to each other. But the aerated concrete due to the porous structure, easily absorbs moisture, so it is more often used for internal floors. It means that foam concrete is more suitable for the construction of external walls.

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Stages of the construction of an extension

The construction of the veranda or terrace is considered a full-fledged construction process. Therefore, the development of such a project and its approval in the relevant structures are mandatory conditions for all. Before you begin this process, it is desirable first to get additional consultation with a soil quality specialist, according to the degree of sending the operated house and the possibility of building a veranda.

The main danger when laying the foundation for an extension to the capital house is the likelihood of the drawing of a new structure. Therefore, it is necessary to try to ensure the quality of the material to fill the base, as well as the depth of the old and the new foundation as much as possible. Such precautions will help to progress from undesirable results at the end of work.

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Features of laying the foundation under the extension of the old house

If the house was purchased and was in operation for several years, then a new owner may not know what the foundation laid under construction represents. Therefore, it will be necessary to find out some questions.

The depth of the foundation of the house and an extension must most of the coincidence.

First of all, you should find out the type of foundation and the depth of its fill. To do this, it is necessary about one wall to dig a square Schurf 1 × 1 m until the foundation sole is detected.
If the base thickness is greater than 30 cm, then the house stands on the stove, usually the ribbon foundation is laid deeper. To find out the exact depth of the foundation laying, it is necessary to proceed yet.
Simultaneously with the development of the shurf, the nature of the soil is determined, draw conclusions about the bearing ability of the foundation and the basis of the basis for an extension.
Next you need to dig a pit, the depth of which will not exceed the depth of the foundation of the capital house. After that, you can proceed to the construction of the base for an extension.

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Features of laying the foundation for an extension for the house built by their own hands

In this case, the owner erected the house with his own hands or participated in the construction process. Consequently, he knows what type of foundation was laid under the house, and has certain data on the soil, therefore it will take a much less time to preliminary training.

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How to place the foundation of an extension

For the construction of the extension, the veranda is used hard with the use of fittings foundation or lay the base with the use of deformation seam. Most often, experts choose a second way, which is more convenient and easier to work. Depending on the foundation laid down under the capital structure, a ribbon, columnar or screw type of base is layered under the extension for the veranda.

For an extension, it is possible to lay a base with the use of a deformation seam.

To create a deformation seam, there is a small gap of 5 cm thick between the bases. At the same time, the boards wrapped in rubberoid are placed.
If the extension is not higher than 2 floors, then between the walls, the distance is left for about 2 cm. The resulting clearance is paved with the insulation of mineral wool and fill the sealants. At the end of the work, the seam is closed with decorative lining.
The process of laying walls start with corners. The smooth surface of the foam block makes it possible to apply a concrete solution with a thin layer, for better clutch, the lower part of the block should be moistened. The quality of further work depends on the laying of the first row of blocks, while the vertical of the masonry line is always checked, the error is aligned with a solution.
Between the blocks, the distance is allowed not more than 1 mm, if you do less, then the bridges of the cold will be formed. Exactly laid rows of blocks are adhesive with adhesive solution, polished and make rods for laying the reinforcement bar. Duties are performed by a circular saw. The reinforcement is cemented into the holes, in the future they will firmly associate the entire design and prevent the appearance of cracks.

Even in ancient times, mankind became clear that the air is the best thermal insulator.

The location of the reinforcement during the extension of the house from the aerated concrete blocks.

People decided to take advantage of such a property. And today, in the presence of modern materials and the use of nanotechnology, it is not forgotten. Is there any ways to use air insulation modified.

Today, the most effective, in terms of thermal insulation, are materials having low density and containing multiple air pores inside.

This includes fiberglass or basalt, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, hollow brick (the more these voids, the more heat-saving is a brick). The most effective of modern materials is considered foamed concrete. About one of his varieties, namely, oh, it will be discussed. It is especially indispensable when you need an extension to the house, and not a whole structure.

Extra room extension scheme.

Aerated concrete is considered an eco-friendly material, which, due to the porous structure, has durability, ease and excellent thermal insulation. The totality of all this makes it more popular among all other types of building materials and allows you to use both with the erection of whole houses and various attached to the house. It can be a sauna, a veranda, a bathroom or heat meter. Easy, quickly, without special excess costs. The main thing is what should be remembered: before you begin to raise an extension to the house, it would be nice to objectively assess the state of the building itself. If it is new enough, then the extension makes sense. It may be much more profitable to carry a very old house and build a new way than using this inexpensive way to expand the living space.

The basis of any building

Connection diagram of a new foundation to the old.

Before starting to make an attachment to, you need to measure the corners of the future structure. Their diagonals must be at the same distance from the wall at home and have the same length. Next, it is necessary to define the thickness of the foundation, for the middle strip optimal will be 40-50 cm. The depth must be 40-60 cm, which is associated with the soil freezing in the winter. Metal belt is made to the size of the trench of the trench. For this, fittings are used. Then in the old foundation hosted holes and the weld belt from the metal is attached.

Then poured the foundation itself, for which the sand-gravel mixture is prepared and cement and clean water is added. Waters will need a lot: 1 cube concrete 125 liters. You should also know that the strength of the cement used directly depends on its storage time: the more it is stored, the more its strength loses. After filling, the foundation is given time for stagnation, about 2 weeks. Next is laid out the base of the brick. And only after that the extension of aerated concrete is made.

Concrete Flower

An attempt was made to improve the properties of concrete with the help of a foaming agent.

Schematic technology of the device of a column foundation.

As already mentioned, in modern conditions it is the most popular building material with the greatest ability of heat saving, but there is another side of the medal: the lower the density of the material, the lower its carrier ability. Concrete, as you know, the most durable of modern materials and its carrier ability is quite high. But the walls of it are very cold, so the attachment requires mandatory insulation. It is because of this that concrete came up with foaming. These make it with the help of foaming agents (most often it is an aluminum powder), then it is placed in the mold and leave to be stuck or naturally (blocks of foam concrete), or in autoclave furnaces (aerated concrete blocks). Thus, the blocks of aerated concrete are produced only in industrially, while foam concrete is really made directly on construction sites.

Naturally, this factor may not be reflected in quality and price. Modern manufacturers claim that a thickness of 30-40 cm in heat power replaces the brick wall with a thickness of 1 m; It is also said that the high vapor permeability of this material does not require the construction of ventilation indoors. Only for attaching blocks need a special fastener, and in order to screw the screw in the wall, an anchor-type fastener is required, otherwise nothing will work. Nails in such walls simply do not hold and fall out. There is another wonderful quality at aerated concrete: the blocks can be cut to the metal with a metal and to overtake the plane, like a tree. For mounting blocks, from which is done, it is better to use special glue.

Stroyaterial deformation

It must be said that the deformation of any building materials is inevitable.

For the sake of justice, it should be noted that no masonry, even 2.5 bricks, is not completely sealed. Therefore, it is desirable to close and miss absolutely all the gaps, seams and joints both with one and on the other side of the wall. For ventilation gaps between blocks and facing brick masonry there will be 20 mm. Blocking and facing masonry is done using kapron reinforcement. It is indispensable when working for a break. In addition to bricks, you can use other facade materials. Walls made of aerated concrete must be closed outside, as, having high absorbability, they will be extremely fragile. Yes, and heat loss in the cold season will be much lower, it is especially important for the middle strip. As practice shows, the wall is best shuffled from two sides. Then the erection will be warmer.