How to assemble a model of plastic. Prefabricated models of aircraft. Cabin interior fit

An interesting and great article about airline modeling, how to properly paint models, which tools are needed and what needs to be considered when modeling aircraft.

The manufacture and collecting of team aviation models occupies a completely special place among numerous species of modern technical creativity. Assembling models from ready-made plastic parts requires patience, jewelry accuracy, accuracy, good knowledge of the history of technology and on a par with other types of models is considered real art. But it was he who is most and not lucky. For some reason, many believe that in order to assemble a model that is sufficiently embedded in the instruction box. And since in the hands after such a work it turns out to be monochrome, in the subteps glue, dim model, then what is the creativity here! Meanwhile, the assembly is only part of the fascinating work on a model of a particular historical machine. We still have to try to recreate her genuine appearance, so that it is just like real ...

In this article we will try to teach you properly collect models
aircraft from sets of finished parts and give several models designs for independent, manufacturing. Among them there are flying homemade for recreation and entertainment.

Collect as accurate and more accurate

Imagine for a minute that you bought a bright, beautiful box, inside of which there is a small miracle - made on the exact scale of the part-copy of the real aircraft. Of course, you will immediately want to work for work. But no matter how much this desire is not treated!

In order to assemble a model-copy as possible as much as possible, you will have to spend a lot of work, and most importantly - learn how to work correctly.

A typical technological scheme for the manufacturer of the model of the aircraft on the instructions nested in the box is shown in Figure 1. However, it is not possible to work on it: it is not always a glue in all sets, it is not always a proper coloring of the model, not all sets are invested. with identification signs. No on sale and special paints. That is why in working on the model, listen to the advice given later, they are repeatedly tested on the experience of the most different models.

Fig. 1. Technology of manufacturing prefabricated polystyrene models: a - staining of small parts on the sprues; b - cutting parts from a spree frame; B is a tip of a tube with glue; g, d - applying glue; e - tightening with a rubber band of glued nodes and parts; W - Installation of parts; s - gluing the air screw; and - applying decorative strips (the so-called "invasion policies"); K - the application of spotted camouflage; l - markup under the wavy camouflage; M - transfer of identification signs.

First of all, never glue the model "tight". Of course, you understand your desire to quickly see your "brainchild" assembly, but, having hurried with a gluing, you are circumscribing yourself for more troubles, and the model will never have a qualitative view. Bear so that you can do without prejudice to disassemble the model or remove the necessary details without damaging them.

Agree that it is not very convenient to paint in the collected form of the chassis, blocks of missiles, a cabin with a pilot inside, etc. and nothing good will not come from it. That is why, in order to paint a small detail, first, do not remove it from the spruce, but, secondly, use to re-fasten with matches and plasticine, planting it on them.

In some cases, in order not to glue the part to the painted location, you can use in another way. On the painted details, such as a suspended fuel tank, mark the place of gluing the pylon. Then, to this place, glue a small piece of polystyrene, imitating a pylon. After drying the glue, the tank is painted, which is very convenient to keep in the hands of this glued piece of polystyrene. Now take off a piece of polystyrene and stick it already to the pylon itself, also pre-painted. In this case, the connection site will be clean and neat, and its strength will increase significantly.

In this way, you can paint a variety of details. If you make painting parts, without cutting them from the sprues, the places of gluing protect the molten paraffin, and even better - a thick gouache: it does not leave fat spots and is easily flushed with water.

Only after the color of small parts can be started to assemble the main elements of the model. It really does not really represent any particular difficulties, but still a few words should be said about applying glue into polystyrene parts. From a soft polyethylene bubble, you can squeeze glue through a small hole, from a small glass bubble - through a capillary tube. It is good to use a thin wire or needle for this purpose, and for large bonded surfaces, soft (squirrels) brushes No. 1, 2 and 4 (if the surface is especially large). It is possible to glue the parts only after they are cleaned of incoming, sowing and residues of sprues.

If there is no adhesive in the set, use toluene, meckol, "pear essherence" (in small quantities for such an important case, it can be asked to be asked in the school office of chemistry), a solvent for nitro-paint 647. Separate parts for greater strength can be additionally "Cook" by the electro-infringener, putting it on the weakest heating.

When assembling, special attention is paid to compliance with the scale of the model and the quality of individual parts in terms of their proportionality. Most often, this requirement does not correspond to the rack and sash chassis, the plumage of bombs and missiles, etc. To shorten the racks is easy, but for the elongation you can take pieces of spruce plastics and, accordingly, process them. Sometimes there are overly thick chassis flaps. From this lack it is easy to get rid of, if you lose them with a grinding skin or appliances. It is necessary to do it not very fast movements so that the plastic is not heated.

Often, weapons on the models of military equipment are shown quite conditionally. This disadvantage can be corrected using a metallic rod or wire of the corresponding diameter. The tip of the rod must be heated and deepen them with the lord of the cannon or machine-gun trunk, giving it a more believable look. You can also mimic the protruding trunks of guns and machine guns, the short wires in their bed. A similar "refinement" of the model often increases its strength, as the parts made from polystyrene, when cleaning the models, are often falling off. And clean the models, even if they are protected from dust with caps or are in the cabinets behind the glass, it is still sooner or later.

At the ends of the wings and on the fuselage (aircraft body) you can simulate flashing or overall lights or headlights. To do this, it is necessary to make cuts in the right places and insert into them sharpened from the transparent, red or green organic glass "Lights".

Antennas are usually made from the fishing line, but it is better to use a metal winding wire for these purposes with a diameter of 0.1 mm, which can be taken from the old small relay. There is another way shown in Figure 2 - extracts the threads of polystyrene sprues. First, the otnietie warming over the flame of the candle 1, then try the degree of heating 2 and, spreading hands to the side 3, pull the thread, holding it away from the fire 4. True, for thin radio antennic this method is little suitable, since the resulting threads are very fragile, but he The easiest and fastest. In addition, it is possible to receive rather thick rods that can be very useful when working on models.

It is not necessary to make antennas and from ordinary threads: they are very quickly becoming "shaggy" because of the deposited on them dust.

Often, modellers do not put on airplanes-biplans stretch marks due to the apparent laboriousness of their execution. In fact, it is quite simple. To pull the stretch marks, it is necessary to make through holes in the wings in the places of their mount, and then stretch through them stretching, which is best to do from wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. Sometimes put stretch marks from threads pre-impregnated with silver. After they are stretched, in the breakdowns, it is necessary to drop over a drop of glue type "moment-1", bf or other. After the glue dries, it is necessary to trim the extra threads, then stick the place of the stretch, to be treated with a small grinding skin and covered with varnish. If you do it all neatly, then after painting the place broach on the wings will be almost invisible.

Many purchased models have "underwent", uneven surface and other shortcomings caused by the aging molds on which they are manufactured. To correct these drawbacks requires a putty. It practically does not happen on sale, and therefore it is necessary to make it yourself. To do this, in a hermetically closed glass jar should be filled with a finely chopped spruce from the model and pour
acetone. After a day, the putty will be ready. It should be borne in mind that it will dry for a long time and can dissolve the plastic model. Therefore, before applying, it is worth checking the putty on the spruce of the model on which it will be applied. By the way, you can cast out of the putty in the molds and various simple details.

But some tips, how to "revive" models. Very effectively look at models with open cabins, bubblyts, movable steering wheel, etc. It is easy to perform wings folding on the hinges at deck aircraft. The easiest way to do this on those models, whose wings fold up. Helicopters and transport cars are interesting, for example, to do with figures of "paratroopers" open doors. Models look good, which simulate the engine operation. For example, in the nozzles of jet aircraft, you can insert ordinary light bulbs from a pocket flashlight by 2.5 V, and in the fuselage place the battery item, such as "uranium" (1.5 V). Light bulb must be powered by low voltage so that nozzles do not melt. Most models of piston aircraft are freely placed microelectrid motors. With their help you can rotate the propeller. Metal shaft and connected to an electric motor with a flexible transmission, such as a rubber tube. In the nasal part, in order to avoid its destruction, the shaft should be "skipping" in the tube, for example, from the rod of the ballpoint. Switches can be the most varied. All these improvements are not very laborious, and for almost everyone.

Almost all models can be obtained using small alterations to obtain various modifications of the prototype aircraft and even new ones. For example, from the model H-60 \u200b\u200b"Dzhips ILO" you can make a whole series of Soviet Aviators A. Yakovlev - AIR-1, AIR-2, AIR-3, AIR-4. At the same time, new products are almost not inferior to the factory.

Almost any model has hidden reserves, but in order to successfully find them, you need to get acquainted with the necessary drawings and descriptions of aircraft.
In the same way, not only team models of aircraft, but also tanks, ships, cars, models of space technology are collected.

Paint clean and gently

The appearance of the team model to a great extent depends on the color. At the same time, for the scale of 1:72, 1: 100 or 1: 144, the coloring and finishing acquire a decisive role. The little things in this work can not be, because the maximum accuracy is the basic requirement for the copy model.

So, about technology coloring. Each experienced model store has its secrets and techniques of this work, but all of them are variants of two main methods: painting with a brush and with the help of an airbrush (sprayer). The first method is relatively simple and accessible to each, especially novice modelist. For the second, the source of compressed air, airbrush and much more is required, which makes it possible somewhat difficult to spread it.

When working, the brush faces the question of which paints are suitable for applying polystyrene, from which the parts of the aircraft are cast. Just not nitroemali! Nothing good will turn out - nitroosnowledge corrosive plastic, the paint dries quickly, stretches, the surface is coarse and uneven. For painting brush you need to use alkyd enamels. They have excellent shelterness, give a thin smooth layer and a glittering surface. The term of their drying is 6-12 hours, depending on the temperature and thickness of the coating. It is necessary to have five main colors: red, blue, yellow, white and black. With their help, you can get the most different colors, as well as any shades. If you managed to find only white alkyd enamel, do not be mistaken - art oil paints, which are sold in stationery stores can be used as dyes.

These oil paints can be used and as the main ones - on diluent No. 2 (White-Spirit or Schipidar). The surface painted by them after drying becomes deeply matte, which is especially important for models-copies of the aircraft of the period of the 2nd World War. Art paints dry one or two days - this is the only drawback.

Specially prepare the surface of the model under the color of the brushes is not necessary, it is enough to wash it in warm water with a toothbrush with soap. By the way, about the brushes: you need one or two round No. 1-3 for painting parts and two or three - flat No. 5-9. The size of the brushes depend on the size of the model - the larger the model, the larger the brushes should be taken. Brushes should be semi-rigid, hair (better from column, sable or badger). Bristle for so thin work are not suitable. The sequence of applying a colorful layer - from lighter to the dark.

Rich opportunities when painting models give an airbrush. Of course, it is much more complicated to work with it than with a brush, but it turns out perfectly smooth surface, matte or brilliant. In addition, the use of an airbrush allows you to transfer various types of protective color (camouflage), simulate traces of operation, repair, influence of atmospheric phenomena, etc.

As a source of compressed air, the compressor from the household refrigerator is most often used, although it must be finalized. First of all, from the launcher, remove the nichrome spiral, replacing it with a segment copper wire (All this, of course, can be done only on the compressor from the refrigerator who came into disrepair, consulting with his parents and with their assistance!). The spiral can not be replaced, but in this case the compressor may stop at the most inopportune moment. It should be remembered that the unit from the refrigerator is not designed for long work, so do not force it to work.

Often from the output tube of the compressor together with the air, small droplets of oil are flying out, their hitting the surface in the surface is extremely undesirable. Therefore, at the output, the oil filter or sump, which will also play the role of the receiver - a drive that smoothes the arms of the air. It can be made from the soccer ball cameras. From the rubber hose with a length of at least 2 m, tightly on an airbrush fitting, cut the piece of about 0.5 m. One of its end is put on the compressor outlet tube and compact the clamp and the tape. The second end, enter into the chamber along with the end of the long segment of the hose and also compound the connection. Strive to achieve complete tightness to avoid the drop in air pressure.

And how to be those who could not get an airbrush or a compressor? An ordinary sprayer can come to the rescue. Such a sprayer will also help when painting a model, however, a standard device, unfortunately, can be used only 1-2 times, after which it is completely clogged with paint.

Uncomplicated improvements will help turn it into a reliable "paintopult". To do this, it is necessary to change the bending radii of the outer and inner tubes and shorten the shank external, as shown in Figure 3, and. The purpose of such modernization is to ensure the possibility of developing and assembling the device. The fine inner tube should easily be extended from the outside. This will make it possible to rinse the parts of the pulverizer in the solvent after staining.

A little bit about the use of such a spray. First of all, it is necessary, changing the position of the nozzle, achieve the fineness of the torch. In this case, the latter length should be about 0.4 m. Before working, the paint must be filtered. At hand you always have to be a bottle with a solvent for nitrobras. As soon as the coloring "cloud" becomes inhomogeneous and from the nozzles begin to fly a bunch of paint, the bottle with paint must be replaced with a bottle with a solvent. Several "swing" rubber pear - and the device is ready to work again.

Having finished painting, do not forget to remove everything and thoroughly rinse with solvent all the details.

A fairly decent airbrush sprayer can be made on the basis of a microcompressor for air supply to the aquarium and two empty rods from the ballpoint pen (Fig. 3, b). From the rods, you need to remove the balls, while trying not to deform them with tips, and connect them at right angles to each other using the appropriate device (for example, a ripple of tin). Then one of the rod should be put on the hose from the compressor, and the other is lowered into a jar with paint. Aerograph is ready to work. The colors can be adjusted both by changing the position of the rods and the adjusting screw on the compressor.

It may happen that at your disposal will be a real industrial airbrush, but without a compressor. As a source of pressure, you can recommend an ordinary household siphon to prepare carbonated water (Fig. 3, B). At the same time, the water in the container is not necessary, but two cans with carbon dioxide can be consistently charge. Siphon's "Nose" connect with an airbrush rubber hose. One such charging is enough for a long time.

But the latest recommendation, no doubt will appreciate those of you who have already participated in exhibitions and competitions in stand models. The fact is that the stand models require. A very "delicate" relationship and, it happens, unwanted unwanted damage during transportation. But if the separated part is easy to glue (there would be a glue!), Then carry the airbrush, compressor or even just a spray gun only to dry out the loud paint, is very difficult. Of course, this can be done with a tassel, but on the "spinning" surface sprayers such a repair is immediately noticeable and only worsens the appearance of the model.

"Repair B. field conditions»It becomes quite possible if you use the simplest pocket plastic inhaler, to remake that in the sprayer-sprayer is the case of a few minutes (Fig. 4). Through the lid of jars, skip a thin tube or a donor needle 3, and to exit the air in the cover of the hole or insert a cut of the tube 4. The plastic hose 5 (it is included) serves to feed the paint to the spray node 6. Now pour a nitrocracy into a pouring jar from - Poda glue for prefabricated models and can start work.

It should be noted that for painting models with all these devices, nitroemali is most suitable. Before applying, the surface of the model is required to be primed, applying a composition consisting of four parts of acetone and one piece of glyphthali primer GF-21. Components are shaking, after which they need to give time to stand in tightly clogged dishes. The resulting transparent liquid of pinkish color immediately before the color is applied with an airbrush to the model - due to this nitrocracy "welded" to plastics.

Before the coloring nitroemal, you need to dissolve with acetone or solvents (646; 647): the paint should be liquid, but not "transparent". When working with an airbrush, follow the following rules: Press the paint's feed key, directing the airbrush away from the model, otherwise the first large splashes-blots can enter the surface. Keep the airbrush at a distance of 15 ... 20 cm depending on the diameter of the nozzle and on which parts are painted. A hand with an airbrush must be in motion all the time, otherwise drips may form on the surface. Remember that the time of complete drying of nitroemalei-1 h, so each layer should be skiing.

And now a few words about how to solve the problem with the paint "under silver", without it, do not do in the manufacture of copy models.

Some sets of plastic aircraft models are equipped with excellent paint "under silver". But the trouble is - even if you are lucky enough to purchase such a model, it is only worth opening a bottle, as a short time, the composition thickens and comes into disrepair. Yes, and not always enough of this paint, the replacement for its other compositions gives, to put it mildly, unsatisfactory results.

But it turns out that even on the basis of affordable pigments, you can cook excellent paint yourself. For this, in addition to the aluminum powder from a regular set, which is on sale in housekeeping stores, you will need fir varnish (it can be purchased in specialized art stores) and solvent 646. The mixture is prepared in a cylindrical glass bubble (for example, from under penicillin), in which they fall asleep Two volume parts of the pigment, and with a pipette, one part of the fir varnish and two more solvents are poured. The resulting mass is shaking. To raise from the bottom of the deposited when storing the pigment, it is useful to put one or two balls from the bubble bearing in the bubble.

It dries homemade paint 20 ... 25 minutes and in appearance practically no different after drying from the paint - "standard".

But some models prepare this paint from a small amount (20 ... 500 mg) aluminum paste (not powder!) And solvent 646. Nitrolac is added to the mixture. You can paint with brush, and airbrush. Before spraying, the model is recommended to paint in white color.

A concentrated solution of caustic soda (caustic soda) will help to remove the paint from the already painted stand models (caustic soda), which is divened by 1-2 days. Before removing the paint, the cab lamp is needed, as the transparent polystyrene in this solution is cloudy. To apply to the model of clear borders of colors, it is easiest to make "masks" of wet newspaper paper or painting separate parts of the model (for example, the upper and lower surfaces of the wings) to their connection. Self-adhesive sticky tape type "Scotch" has too strong adhesive ability and often moves along with paint, so when used, it should be powder with a talc or tooth powder.

If you need to reproduce the blurred camouflage, a mask carved from thick paper or a transparent film is kept at a distance of a few millimeters from the surface of the model, cautiously by sparing the paint. This technique is quite simple, however, so as not to spoil the model, you must first work out - "fill the hand" on unnecessary pieces of polystyrene or paper. But with the famous skill of the camouflage stains can be applied without a mask.

After the model is painted, let it dry and only then translate the decals on it. If you need to get a matte surface, liquid diluted nitrolac with big Distance Place the model, after closing the masks of transparent details - lights, headlights, etc. For the same purpose, you can use the colorless matte varnish or paint the nitrocracy with a dental powder added.

Naturally, when painting a model, a lot will depend on the design of the prototype aircraft itself and those materials from which it was made.

They were like that they are

In order for you the model-copy of the aircraft really, it should be as reliable as possible. And for this you need to understand well in the history of the development of aviation, to have an idea of \u200b\u200baviation production technology, features of the use of the winged technology, its operation in different conditions. Without this, all the work may be wasted. Therefore, here we will try to briefly introduce you to what these or other aircraft have been made, which identified signs and emblems. All this will help you in your work.

When assembling models of the aircraft, the First World War, you must take into account that the buildings of the majority of them were made of wood and were squeezed by aviation plywood or canvas, impregnated with nitroloma and had a yellowish tint. The structure of the canvas, which were covered with airplanes, was indistinguishable even on a real machine (after all, the surface of the aircraft was carefully stained and polished), so trying to reproduce it on the model. Biplana model should be painted before final assemblyAnd then scraping the paint in the locations of the knots, because the glue will not give a solid connection on the paint coating.

When painting, consider the features of camouflage of different countries. During the civil war, the pilots of the Red Army flew both on aircraft captured in battles and on the domestic plants produced in domestic factories. The most common fighter aircraft were the cars of the brand "decline" and "Newport", which in Russian, and then in the Red Army were painted in silver color. It is known that these cars were very worn out, and their repair was carried out in the field, therefore, when painting parts, imitating linen and plywood parts, it is necessary to add a little matte white or light gray into aluminum paint. This will give the effect of the faded surface.

The English-made aircraft trapped from the interventionists and whitebarovans were usually not repainted, and new identification signs were applied manually right on blue-white-red British cocardia. If you wish, you can imitate patches on damaged parts of the fuselage or wing, staining them in the main color of the lighter shade. Typically, the patch had a circle or quadrangle form.
On the aircraft of the period of the First World War with a multicolor camouflage, the border of the colors was expressed clearly.

On the aircraft of the Kaiser Germany, the linen cover of the wings and the fuselage had the form of multicolor polygons of the correct geometric shape. Interestingly, the canvas came to aircraft facilities already painted on a weaving factory. But on the model, such a type of camouflage is best imitated with a brush, although this work requires a certain skill. The coloring of the aircraft of this period was usually half-man, although the machine had just conveyed from the conveyor had an ideal shiny surface, during operation they quickly lost their appearance.

When final finishing and adjusting the model of the First World War, it is necessary to remember the next trifles: wooden air screws have been thoroughly polished, so when the model screw is painted, the texture of the tree and its color must be mimic. If the model is large enough, then the screw can be made of wood or plywood and do not paint. Metal pad on the screw bushing - dull gray. Carter and engine cylinders are painted under a dull metal. To do this, you can add dark gray or brown or both in various proportions into silvery paint. Cylinder pushers should be made of bright silver color, and the exhaust pipes are under the color of the rust, which they purchased in the process of long-term operation. The machine guns must be covered with dark gray paint and somewhere to "fit the smears under a dull metal.

The tires on the wheels of aircraft-veterans had a pronounced gray shade, so before painting the chassis wheels, it is necessary to add a fair amount of a fair amount of white to the matte black paint white or mixed in black shiny paint of dental powder. To imitate mud drips on wheels, add white to dark brown paint, thoroughly stir and gently apply a tassel in the desired place. The main thing at the same time is not to put too much paint. Smoky bands from exhaust gases are best to apply an airbrush, and the color of the exhaust contamination on the fuselage may have a dark gray or gray-brown tint. This work requires accuracy and thoroughness, when it is fulfilled, it should be guided by the rule "better less than more."

During the second, world war, various types of camouflage color were used, which can be distinguished in three groups: "chopped" - camouflage with a sharp, geometrically broken color boundary; "Wavy" - when there is a wave-like border of colors; "Spotted" - when various color spots are applied on the wings and fuselage of the aircraft. The border between the colors could be blurred or clear. For models-copies performed on a large scale, this is a secondary question, since in this case the border of the colors will look like a clear in any case, but scale 1:24 or 1:32 allows you to imitate the "blur" of the color boundaries of the camouflage.

The question of the degree of gloss of the paint coating applied to the model is important. As too brilliant, so too matte coloring of the model makes it unreliable. Unlike cars, aircraft of that time, with a rare exception, did not have a polished surface, but, on the other hand, it is impossible to forget about the scaligence effect. The model on a scale of 1:72 from a distance of 0.25 m looks (or should look) just as a real aircraft from a distance of about 18 m. And at such a distance, even a matte paint acquires some shine for the observer. Therefore, the most reliable is such a degree of brilliance, which received a typewriter " eggshell" This is a smooth, semi-wave coating, for glitter resembling a shell of fresh chicken egg, produces the most profitable. Impression.

It should be noted that the exact shade of one or another color in which aircraft painted, now it is already accurately and not to point out even for those countries where the most stringent instructions existed. Sun, rain, dew, repair work, inevitable paint aging and even just not enough good stirring before use caused the most bizarre changes in the color of aircraft.

When staining models you need to know that before the war, most of the Soviet aircraft of the Air Force were painted in light gray and silver colors. Then the main color was the dark green with a little brown tint Color on upper and lateral surfaces. The lower planes were, as a rule, blue. In early 1941, an indication of the camouflage painting of aircraft was adopted. The repainting of them was produced in the field, which is why the lower surfaces sometimes remained the original light gray color, and large rounded stains of brown or black colors were applied to the main green background. Sometimes on the upper planes remained the spots of the original color, which created a very rare tricolor camouflage for Soviet aviation.

In the color of the Soviet aircraft of the period of the Great Patriotic War, two stages can be distinguished. The first (initial) was characterized by a large variety of coloring schemes, which was associated both with the lack of sufficient experience in this area, and with suddenness of the attack fascist Germany. First, all new Yakovleva, Lavochkina and Mikoyan aircraft, the release of which was mastered before the war was produced in the old protective color. From the second half of 1941, all aircraft, which made from assembly shops of aircraft facilities, received camouflage color in the form of big stains brown and green. And brown paint had green tintAnd green, on the contrary, is brown. This scheme was used both for daytime and night aircraft almost all fronts. Most surface aircraft from below painted in blue.

In the first military winter of 1941 - 1942. Airplanes had a winter camouflage white-gray or white coloring. Bottom surfaces remained blue. Interestingly, in the spring of 1942, as a result of the impact of weather conditions, the so-called "spring" camouflage appeared on the aircraft, when the initial colors began to come through the white paint.

While the aircraft that actually actually had a blue color of the lower surfaces (light gray was used only for the color of some multi-motor aircraft), the night aviation had the lower surfaces of the black. These were mainly bombers, transport and connected aircraft, flying in the rear of the enemy, for example Li-2, 2, etc. Sometimes these aircraft were painted from above and from the sides of a special matte dark blue-green paint. Some aircraft were whole black.

Other color schemes were used for the color of Soviet aircraft. For example: herbal and green and black colors for terrain with rich vegetation; Sand and brown colors - for southern front sections; Small brown spots on a green background - mostly in the south of Ukraine and in the Caucasus in 1942-1943.

On some machines (usually multi-motor), even a three-color camouflage was used, which combined the spots of gray, green and brown and green colors (Li-2) or light green, hive and black and green colors (Yak-6).

In the second half of the war, i.e., from the middle, 1943, the color of Soviet aircraft has radically changed. It became more standard and was a combination of two shades of gray - darker and light, and under the very end of the war, the aircraft had a monochrome gray-green color. This applies primarily to such machines as La-5FN, Yak-9, Yak-3, La-7, Tu-2, etc., etc.

Among the aircraft of the Soviet Air Force, it is impossible to go around the attention and a fairly large group of cars, the painting of which was different from the standard for completely different reasons. We are talking about the aviation technique, which delivered to us allies on Land Lisa (military aid), as a rule, in its original form. Thus, English-made aircraft had spots of dark green and dark earth (brown) colors, and later - a combination of gray-green and dark gray "marine" colors. The lower surfaces of these machines had the color of "duck eggs" or painted in a light amp. The United States aircraft were a monophonic olive (dirty green with a brown tint) from above and light gray bottom. Only gradually these cars were repainted according to Soviet standards. The use of radar means and the creation of a fundamentally new reactive technology has delivered fundamentally new tasks for camouflage combat aircraft before military professionals. That is why in the United States, Great Britain, Germany and some other countries, engineers, doctors, psychologists, artists are widely involved today, are widely involved in this work.

In the first post-war years, most of the jet aircraft, especially our Soviet, were not colored at all and had a silvery gray color, which was gradually replaced by camouflage color. Airplanes such as Tu-16, Tu-20 and Tu-22 and remained silver.

An interesting direction in the camouflage of aircraft was developed in the United States at the beginning of the 70s scheme of the so-called back-shadow color, used on intercepting fighters. Its action lies in alignment using various shades of gray natural light Separate parts of the aircraft: those sites that usually look lighter are covered with darker paint, and vice versa.

In the late 70s, the test of such a camouflage scheme was carried out in the UK Air Force. In 1979, the coloring with a reverse eye effect (three shades of gray) was adopted for fighters of Phantom-2 fighters, and a few later - for fighters "Lighting" and "Tornado", light training and combat aircraft "Hawk". At the same time, the size of the identification signs were reduced by the introduction of new camouflage colors, and their pastel shades were used instead of bright blue and red colors. The brightness of various screen inscriptions was muffled. Although the identification signs and squadron emblems are temporarily preserved, if there are emergency circumstances, they are reported by foreign printing, they will be painted.

In the course of the Anglo-Argentine Armed Conflict because of the Falkland (Malvin) Islands, the Aviation of the United Kingdom, the Aviation of the British Navy and Aviation. The deck fighters "SI Harrier", who had a serous-white color traditional to send to the South Atlantic (and, in the opinion of English specialists, white paint on the lower surfaces of the aircraft had too high reflectivity), became monophonic gray. With identification signs, a white ring was removed. In addition, squadron emblems were painted, bright inscriptions and designations were removed.

In the FRG Air Force, its own camouflage scheme was developed, in which gray and green colors, as well as broken lines, which resembles the color of the aircraft of fascist Germany.

Works on the creation of new efficient camouflage schemes of aircraft are conducted in different directions. Sometimes they take the most original forms. So, in Canada, an experiment was conducted, during which the CF-18 fighter fuselage fighter was applied to a mirror image of its top (cab lantern, keel and other elements). According to specialists, this disguise method turned out to be very effective, since during the training battles the pilots of the opponent aircraft experienced serious difficulties in determining the spatial position of the CF-18 aircraft painted in this way and, of course, their crews. However, from the further dissemination of this experience, the Canadian Air Force experts still abstained in order to "ensure flight safety in peacetime."

The most suitable camouflage scheme is considered to be the alternation of dark green and dark gray spots with zigzag edges. So painted light bombers "Bukanir", "Jaguar" fighters and some other aircraft. Fighters "Phantom" are combined with lighter paints: from above - light green and dark gray spots, and below - light gray and white with a blue tint.

Basic patrol aircraft "Nimrod" and fighters-interceptors "Lighting", acting mainly above the sea, color so that they are not visible from above against the background of the sea surface, and from the bottom - on the background of the clouds.

On the contrary, training machines must be bright so that they can be noted from afar. However, some of them, on which combat application issues, has the same camouflage as combat aircraft.

The masking color of helicopters is similar to the coloring aircraft intended for actions for terrestrial targets from small and extremely small heights. However, the helicopters of the search service and salvation are usually covered with bright yellow paint.

Separate types of aircraft can be painted in other (non-standard) colors. For example, they were painted in white with black spots and strips so that they do not particularly stand out against the background of the earth's surface, covered with snow and stones, aircraft vertical takeoff and landing "Harrier" who participated in flights above Norway.

Collector modelmers are extremely important to be able to correctly address identifying signs, especially if it was not possible to get the decalizing factory manufacture. Here, already mentioned screen masks with a cutting image should come to the rescue.

When finishing the model, it is important not only to know the story well, but also to observe the measure, the scale of identification signs, digital designations, "scratches" and "chipping". Otherwise, the "metal" may appear and where there was actually wood or fabric, and identifying signs can make an unfulfilled even the most beautiful model. And, of course, a copy of an experienced instance of the aircraft cannot look like a car that has been in dozens of air fighting, as well as the ASA machine should not have the appearance of a just released from the assembly shop. That is why the painstaking, but very interesting and useful work on the study of the history of aviation, searching for photos and color images of copied airplanes, which will help to supplement the color of the model with the necessary nuances.

You will need

- set of details for the assembly;
- sharp knife;
- sandpaper;
- Nadfili;
- Scotch;
- glue model;
- PVA glue;
- Tassels for glue and paint;
- airbrush;
- acrylic paints.

Instruction

Check the model you are interested in. Today, you can find a wide variety of copy assembly sets. different periods. They may differ in configuration and degree of readiness for assembly, so carefully read the packaging of the product before making the final choice.

Prepare tools that will be needed when assembling the model. Buy model glue, as well as PVA glue. When processing parts, do not do without acute knife, Nadfile and sandpaper. For coloring of the finished model, purchase tassels of different sizes and stiffness. Not excess will also be an airbrush.

Remove the contents and carefully inspect it. Such a preliminary acquaintance with the design will make it possible to make an idea of \u200b\u200bthe types and number of parts to be assembled. Typically, the details of the model are assembled into flat blocks connected by the sprues, and the blocks are completed not as it fell, but in a certain sequence.

Determine the sequence of assembly, referring to the instructions and visual image of the model. Use to compose the image of the product on the box and the images of the prototype accessible to you (they can be found in the historical literature or on the Internet).

Select the sprues to which the main details of the model case are attached. For example, for the aircraft model it will be the fuselage and wings. Disconnect the parts from the block with a knife, and then carefully read the place of the attachment of the spines.

Fold the halves of the case among themselves. Do not hurry to glue parts; To begin with, connect them with pieces of scotch. It is also not recommended to immediately disconnect all the details from the sprues, because in this case it will be difficult to determine the part belonging and its place in the model. Make the assembly sequentially.

Attach all the basic elements of the design to the housing in turn, attaching them with a scotch or using specially provided pins. When the model acquires a finished look, after once again inspect it, remembering the mutual location of the details and, if necessary, writing the sequence of assembly.

Disassemble the model and proceed to the finishing assembly, connecting the elements with glue. To attach the next part, go only after drying the adhesive composition. Do not put a goal to complete the assembly for short term. If necessary, break the process into several steps, for example: clearance of parts, build body, adjustment model, painting.

After full assembly Plastic models Start its coloring. At the same time, first check with the instructions and image of the original. In some cases, the model should be covered with primer before applying paint. If it is required to give a confidence model, apply camouflage body color. After drying, the paint model can take its place in your home collection.

To assemble the model, the model and glue itself is completely insufficient. To qualitatively assemble the model, the mass of tools, tools, mainly inexpensive - model knife. Pinzet, sandpaper, glue, camouflage tape and paint.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is a good knife. To work with models of aircraft, a knife with a narrow blade is suitable. The quality of the knife must be very good, so that you do not have to sharpen the blade during the work. In the role of a knife, a surgical scalpel has proven not bad.

Skar

For stripping collected model It will take at least two types of skin: with a grain of more larger for initial processing and very small for finishing. It is advisable to use the waterproof skurt, because the grain is quickly clogged with waste plated. Waterproof skirt follows from time to time to sculpt the water to wash off plastic sawdust.

Glue

The easiest way to collect a model on a liquid quick-drying glue. It does not hurt to have a special glue for connecting transparent parts.

Shpaklevka

Special model putty is absolutely necessary for the sealing of all sorts of slots, which are formed after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

Masking Ribbon.

The camouflage tape is widely used when assembling models. It can not only protect the surface when painting or putty, but also fasten the parts during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin ribbon as possible.

Paint

Released a large number of colors for models, from miter to acrylic paints on water based. The finish is better to perform acrylic or oil paint. In the latter case, the finished model in obligatory It is necessary to blend the half-one lacc so that the entire surface has become homogeneous. Oil paint gives a matte surface, the model of the aircraft should be slightly flexing.

Pussy

For coloring, three brushes will be required: thin, medium size and large flat. Brushes It is advisable to buy artistic with hairs from a sable. After working, the brush should be thoroughly rinsed and wipe.

Brush "Revell", Cork, №4 / 0

Brush "Revell", №2

Properly organized workplace - a big deal. It is preferable to have a separate large table, but you can work on the kitchen when it is free. The lighting is important. With dim light, you can not notice the defects of the models.

Tool location

The entire tool must be accurately accurately and at the same time so. So that he was at hand. There is nothing worse than to search for the missing knife in the assembly process.

File and KP

Separated small details are well stored in transparent plastic files - everything can be seen and not lost. For files it will not prevent the album.

Tweezers

In the set of the model, there will always be details that are too small for coarse fingers of the modelist. Pinzets in this case are indispensable. It's good to have two tweezers: usual and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

Without an airbrush and compressor, the process of coloring the overwhelming majority of modelists do not think. The airbrush and the compressor in any case will have to acquire if you are over you want to engage in modelism more or less seriously. The airbrush and the compressor will require the largest financial allocations torn off from family budget. Be addressed to this yourself and prepare your spouse (the latter is the most important !!!). It is believed that he paints an airbrush easier than brush. The question is a debate, however, in any case, the result is the color of the airbrush, with other things being equal (modeling experience), exceeds the result of the work of the brush. In addition, a number of camouflage painting schemes (Italian, German) periods of the second world warriors can be performed only by an airbrush.

Set of knife

One model knife is sometimes not enough, it is better to get three: with sharp, cropped and rounded blades.

And necessarily need spare blades for a model knife. They can be bought in Maagizne tools or on Aliexpress:.

"Additional hands"

Small metal clamps "Alligators" help help great. Used by infantry. They are well held small details when gluing and coloring.

When assembling, and especially when finalizing the model, it is often necessary to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric microdel and a set of drilling small diameters. The drill can also be using different nozzles to process the surface of the model.

Kusachachi

Separate parts from the framework, bite the oblast, etc. Best of all small bodies-boosers, borrowed from the Arsenal of the Radio Pitner.

Feather

A model with cutting control surfaces looks much more realistic than that of which the steering wheel and the ailerons are simply outlined by the extender. Cut the best miniature saw. Made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punch different diameters We use for the manufacture of stencils under identification signs, for example - Japanese circles of the "Rising Suns". Craised identification signs are preferable to decals.

List all the tools needed to build the model is hardly possible. In addition to factor, there is also a subjective objective.

We buy a model

We acquired a tool, you can now choose a model. At first, the wise decision is to stop a simple, for example, on one of the sin of single-engine fighters of the Second World War: North Amerpun R-51 "Mustang", Mitsubishi "Zero" or R-Publik R-47 Delbolt. Collecting these models can be purchased basic assembly skills and coloring.

Models of these aircraft are relatively simple. And in the 48th, and in the 72nd scale, they contain not so much details. For the most part, that "Delbolt". What "Mustang", that "Zero" was painted in just two colors - a monophonic top and a monotonous bottom. Start better from the 72th scale at least due to its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you do not have experience, then you have to spoil dear modelif you can spoil cheap?

After the assembly of several single-engine screw monoplas, you can move to experiments on multi-modular machines, "jets", biplans, as well as "whales" on scale 1:48 and higher (you will have a desire and there is a separate apartment for ready-made models).

Check

After receiving a model in the seller, do not hurry to thank it. Open the box and make sure the presence of all the details declared in the instructions, decals and especially the cab lamp. It will not be necessary to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China may manage to invest Messerschmitt in a box from "Spitfair". Not to mention the substitution of BF.109E on BF.L09G. Check the quality of the castings - are not visible.

If you have found complete matching of the kit - thank the seller and run home to collect the model. Home Select the necessary tools and gently spread them on the desktop. You can go to the next step.

Studying instructions

You will probably begin to study the instructions on the way. This is not yet rebeling (but not welcomed - you can get under the car). Rate instructions from a critical point of view. Its author there is a look at the process of assembling the model, you can have your own. Sometimes it makes sense to change the order of the assembly. But. Do not rush to scold the author, if you like something ns. Try to delve into the ideas that fought the technologist to just such an assembly order. Maybe he is right, and not you?

Check for seer

The overall quality of the model check is quite simple. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it happened easily and without displacements, then you bought a thing. If not - reserve putty, skins and patience. Cropped parts not to lose, it is recommended to keep in a special box. Separate parts from the sprues should be knife or rank, but in no case to calm down. If you need to fasten the parts to the frames, it should be cleaned after the branch.

Assembling fuselage

So, you examined the model. Euphoria passed, you can take a business. Let's start with the fuselage.

Cleaning details

On the castings there may be traces of mold lubrication, and other fat stains, they should be removed. Immerse the commemorate or already cut parts for ten minutes in warm water, then thoroughly extend them with soap with an old toothbrush. Rinse in running water and keep dry.

Stripping

After the details are dried, thoroughly clean the flat surfaces, go through the skin of the ends of the fuselage. The operation pursues two goals - remove possible large irregularities, and make the place of halves to do absolutely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for the best adhesion of glue. Clean the locations of the parts to the sprues.

It happens that one of the halves of the fuselage is cast with protruding details, for example - with tail support chassis. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after assembling the fuselage. The second way is to take a small wooden bar, wrap it with a skin and handle the end rugs of the fuselage especially gently sanding in the area of \u200b\u200bthe serving detail. In the most detailed, it is best to crumble not with a skirt, but half a razor blade. Model knife remove the break. In addition to the factory small "oblast" may appear for PRESS. Some plastics are laying. Pay attention to the break not only on the ends, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cutout under the lantern of the pilot cabin, in the air intake hole, in the places of gluing stabilizers and planes of the wing. Remember: when the defect "gets out" when painting (and it will definitely "manifest"), it will be late to correct it.

Fitting a lantern

Fold half the fuselage. They must stick with each other perfectly. If necessary, repeat the stripping of halves on the skirt. To the folded fuselage (while it can be copped with rubber bands) attach the lantern. Lantern, again, must perfectly lay down "at the place." Otherwise, cautious sshkolivania push it to the fuselage. There are "deadly" options -phonar thicker fuselage. Well - C-Schucivant Plexiglas, then run to the store for Infusion of Goe. Paste GOI It is quite possible to restore the transparency of the lantern to more than an acceptable level.

Modern models are used Future Floor FINISH (Floor Wax) - American floors for polishing floors. Gives transparency and glitter with transparent decals.

It is much worse if a slot is formed between the lantern and the fuselage, and the top of the flashlight is perfectly fits into the counter of the fuselage. A similar defect is "treated" putty. The trouble lies in the color of putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Color the putty from the inside with the glued lantern - the task is to build a ship model assembly in a bottle. The process is element only in one case - when at the bottom of the fuselage there is a huge cut in the center.

Cabin interior fit

It is time to separate the cabin interior elements from the sprues: dashboard, floor, rear wall. Customize items at the place, pushing and investing them in the halves of the fuselage. Frequently, the floor and dashboard are widely used for glued halves of the fuselage. Page some models The side panels of the cabin are cast at the same time with the halves of the fuselage, on some - the floor of the cabin together with the side panels forms a kind of bathroom. The bathroom is also often wider than you need. Pick it in place.

Now cut the small details of the cabin interior - control knob. Pedals, pilot chair. Clean them and put in the box not to lose.

Cabin interior coloring

Sometimes in the process of construction, the model has to be painted separate parts or subferences, a cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and coloring as well as large: removal of the bummer, traces from tall, sweeping of injection seams, washing, drying and degreasing.

Take care carefully to the selection of paints for the interior of the cab. Grouple details in colors. Details that face in different colors It is convenient to clamp in "crocodiles". Make sure in the reliability of the capture of the details of the "teeth" of the alligator - the jet of compressed air is quite capable of shifting a poorly fixed part. The first thing is painted in basic color Actually, the cabin (most often is the inner sides of the halves of the fuselage). After complete drying of the base tone, proceed to the "crushing" with the tassel of the elements of the "decoration" of the cab: the removers of radio stations, trimmer sporers, the tap of the oxygen supply, etc. Most often, these elements are painted black, but there are other colors.

Before assembly, it is also worth painting visible inner surfaces of the air intakes and engine cylinders.

Dashboard finish

The easiest thing to translate the nested decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are completed with such decals and almost all decals at best meet the realities of interest on 20-30. Much more realism is possible by painting the dashboard with paints with paints on a water or oil base. Painting the dashboard in the base color is necessary even when using decals. It is easier to paint the dashboards on which symoted when casting individual appliances, especially if the base color of the board, as on the "Mustang" of the Zero, black. The item is completely painted with matte black paint, then the lead edges of the instruments are driven by lead pencil. In conclusion on the scale of the device, a drop of liquid glass of plants can be powered by a thin end of a colorless nail polish, after drying, varnishes or glass is slightly polished.

Dashboard "Delbolt" was stained in black, scales appliances - white. Start again will have to paint the dashboard in a matte black color. After complete drying in the center of imitation of the device, a drop of white paint is applied and "smeared" to the edges of the device. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.

The next step to the realism is the imitation of the devices themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. Scale are drawn with a thin brush.

Assembling the interior of the cabin.

After the color of the cabin interior elements, you can start assembling. Subject to the preliminary fit, it should not cause difficulties. Contact locations should be cleaned with paint. It is best to connect the details of the liquid glue using the Capillary effect known from the course of physics. Two details are tightly pressed to each other, a drop is applied to the bog liquid glue. A drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will turn out both lasting and neat. When gluing it is important that the glue does not get into the painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - the painstaking work will go to the pump.

It is most convenient when the interior of the cab is made in the form of "bath" as in the model "Dandelabolt". The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and should dry out after gluing at a smaller measure. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try assembled module To the fuselage. If the module is suitable - glue it to one half of the fuselage and lie down. If not, pick up the familiar method of cutting, cutting and pushing the surplus of plastic. After the "Bath" and light grapping of glue, make the final check - once again fold together the halves of the fuselage, in one of which the cabin is already inserted.

Assembling halves of fuselage

Usually the instruction recommends applying glue to the docking surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most acts this way, but in this case the likelihood of uncontrolled extrusion of excess glue on the outer surface assembly is large. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: folding the halves and wrap them along the contour with liquid glue, glue to apply a tassel carefully. True, in this case, there are their pitfalls: adhesives can easily get to the tips of the fingers, and the last to leave difficultly removed prints on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep your fingers a fuselage away from the seam when applying glue. The glued halves follow something to climb (round gum, clothespins) and leave to dry.

After a few hours of drying, it is necessary to clean the glue seam, pre-defending the scotch with a sawdust cap of the pilot. Sometimes the seam has to be splashing. Putty also need to give time to dry well. Sowing silence of different grainy skins (from average to small).

The first step in the assembly of the model of the aircraft is made. You can smile with proud views by proud of your achievement.

Add wing and plumage

It makes sense to start with the tail plumage: until the wing is not glued to the stabilizer and steering the height easily.

Correction of Defects of Cruel Tail Operation

On most models of fighters "Mustang", "Taderbolt" and "Zero", made in the small scale of halves of the stabilizer cast in one detail (top and bottom together). Most often they are deprived of defects. If there are defects, it is recommended to apply hot cleaning.

Heat the water to boil and lower the part with an unnecessary bend to it for a few seconds. Remove the item until it cooled straighteners. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.

Thin details require less heating. All surfaces of the tail plumage have sufficiently thin front and rear edges, eliminating the defect with bathing in hot water Elementally can damage the edges. Bending is desirable only to the thick tea "stabilizer.

Prepare the halves of the stabilizer to gluing - sanding, washing, drying degreasing.

Adhesion fitting surfaces

Insert the halves of the stabilizer into the fuselage. As a rule, the junction place even on good models requires fitting. The gap will have to put off after gluing, until it is necessary to evaluate how accurately the surface of the stabilizer to the influx on the fuselage is. If the thicker is thicker, then it must be adjusted to the stabilizer profile, if the stabilizer is thicker, then it will probably be better to increase the profile of a putty with putty already after gluing the halves of the stabilizer.

Alignment and attaching the surfaces of the tail of the tail

Now that you caught the tail plumage at the place can be taken for gluing. In the event that separately the steering wheel is given, then start with it. Apply the maple on the docking surface and press the steering wheel to the fuselage. In most cases, the direction steering wheel is glued as if it was in a neutral position, so make sure several times, examining the model in front, and from above, in the correct position of the steering wheel.

After rejection of the adhesive seam of the steering wheel, direction and fuselage can be proceeding with the addition of halves horizontal. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of the symmetry of the fuselage. On the eye, the correctness of the stabilizer attachment is best to check, inspecting the assembly of strictly from behind with a rotation of 90 degrees. In this case, the stabilizer occupies a vertical position and easier to mentally compare the mutual position of its halves, halves must be on the same axis. Having placed direct angles to fix any halves of the stabilizer (for example, a camouflage ribbon) to the complete drying of the glue.

Wing

The plane of the wing is sometimes given by two halves, the upper and lower, sometimes right and left upper parts and the total bottom for the right and left planes, the plane of the wing, cast by one detail, are also found. Problems that may arise with the wing of akin to the problem of the stabilizer.

Alignment and rigid wing

The defects of the rigid wing are eliminated by the already familiar method of "heating-bending". Then the plane is adjusted to the center. When gluing the planes, control the angle of the transverse "V" and the installation angle of the attack should be monitored. It is important to withstand the same angle of attack and "V" for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the corners of the plane setting will be well visible on the assembled model. The same transverse angle is conveniently monitored by the width of the slots between the planes and the centroplane. By gluing the plane. Check the installation corners and fix the position of the wing with a camouflage ribbon or scotch. After rejection of the glue, the slots are putty n positive. Working with the emery at the place of the joint and fuselage is extremely inconvenient, besides, almost always in the process of work the extending is damaged. However, it is not necessary to do not leave the same gaps. The extection with due skill is quite possible to restore.

Alignment and glue of planes of the wing of two halves

First of all, the ends of the halves of the planes on the skin should be sharpened, the similar operation has already been done with halves of the fuselage. Mix half the plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ending and the lines of the board should be concerned. In practice, it is usually necessary to remember the saying "The tail pulled out - the nose was stuck. After combining the huts somewhere "leaves" one of the legs, do not coincide the lines of the branch. Best for the point of reference when gluing taking a coincidence of the lines of the top and bottom halves. Preparation for gluing is made as usual. The halves are re-folded and fixed by narrow strips of camouflage dates. Bonding occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is tested with a liquid glue. After that, whom the locking strips are captured by the capture of the adhesive, and the joints they closed the adhesive. While one plane will dry, you can do the second. Closing surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane are made only after complete drying of the glue. The collected planes are glued to the fuselage as well as whole halves. Once again it does not interfere with reminding: control the installation angles, first of all - the angle of the transverse "V".

Alignment and gluing wing of three parts

The process of assembling the wing of three parts (two top half of the planes and one bottom, cast into one unit with the bottom surface of the centroplane) will be different, rather than the assembly of the wings of four and two parts.

Prepare parts for gluing as usual. Set the lower part of the wing and secure it with a camouflage ribbon. Release the installation angles. Then, apply the top bed of the planes on the site and also fix them with scotchpie (there may be the same problems as when docking the upper and lower halves of the wing of four parts: non-docking of the finishes and lines of the board). Once again check the transverse "V". If you need to reduce the angle, insert into the slot between the fuselage and the upper halves of the struts from thin plastic the same thickness. Stick the bottom of the wing to the fuselage. After drying at once, check the transverse "V" and correctly adjacent to the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine - make the capillary effect on the good work of gluing the upper halves with low part. After setting the main adhesive seam, remove the tape, wash the junction glue, previously closed by a camouflage ribbon.

Before putting down and stripping, the assembly must completely dry. Singing the edges of the wing and planes with the center of the planes with the centercloth completes the important ethane assembly of the model. Now the model is already similar to the plane.

Good day, dear users of my resource!

With you again, Dmitry Ignatchev - your conductor in the world of large-scale models.

Often the life of the novice model is full of surprises. As well as many, seemingly insoluble, questions. Questions, questions, questions ... What and how to do how to cut off the sprues, how to glue, how and what to paint ...

It is not easy to figure it out. Especially if there are no models among your friends, there are no large-scale modeling clubs in your city, and the time for the search and study of the literature is extremely small. Taking into account the fact that the valuable information is extremely small, and the Internet is filled with disparate arguments on all sorts of forums - so it becomes a tag in general :)) But ... Dear friends do not try to throw the work started. It is always necessary to bring to the natural finals - to result .

Well, I, in turn, will help you understand the science of large-scale models. And I dedicate your new material to solve such a problem as the selection of a set of tools sufficient to create its first (s) models. We will deal with what you need and need to have in the arsenal at the initial stage of the acquisition of modelist skill, and what will not be necessary.

In general, the arsenal of model business masters is very extensive. And it may occupy a very significant space. From a small locker in a personal room to a whole workshop in a private house, or a garage. Such a toolkit is similar to the workshop of the great creators of violins, such as Amati and Stradivari. Such things are perfectly displayed in the genius of the Soviet film "Visit to Minotaur". And as any significant thing, such a number of tools is going, it is purchased for a long time. Sometimes calculated by decades. But this is all the lot of true masters, lovers in love. Life case.

But you are my dear reader, if you are standing at the very beginning of this path, such a number of tools is not completely required. Especially if you are not at all sure that you will do this for a long time.

Therefore, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the list of tools of the beginner model prepared by me.

Toolkit beginner model store

Knife model store

The model knife is perhaps the most important tool in arsenal. Just because it all starts with him. You will separate the details from the sprue from the knife. Cut the break. Space of different kind Defects. Now there is an extensive range of knobs, differing in length and thickness of the handle. Modern model knives have a chopping clamp for the blade. These blades can be replaced with each other quickly and simply. The fact is that replaceable blades are designed to perform highly specialized tasks, performing various types of work.

You can purchase both a knife separately and a whole complex consisting of the knife itself and a set of replaceable blades. All about your choice. First you can purchase a knife without replaceable blades. If on sale there are knives of different manufacturers - ask to hold the knife in your hands. The tool should be good in hand, like it.

TWEEZERS

Here is another tool without which the model store will be extremely difficult. This is tweezers. It is necessary when working with small and highly Small details. Only with the help of a tweezers you can install, incur a tiny details into limited spaces of aviation cabins, niche chassis and others.

Tweezers - friend model

Tweezers is one of the most common modeling tools that can be purchased not only in model stores, but also in pharmacies, radio electronics stores. You can also purchase a shopper tweezers. It has more subtle "sponges", which allows you to work with high accuracy with small details.

SANDPAPER

After separation from the sprue, all the details of the model need to be cleaned with different types of defects. It can be a different kind of irregularity, a break. After gluing different parts, it is also necessary to clean the place of the junction. Of course, manufacturers constantly improve the quality of their sets. But one way or another, elastic paper will be required for a very long time in the work of the model.

You can purchase sandpaper in any economic or automotive store. Also in the work will be part of various kinds of nail files, Nadfili. You can apply nourishes for grinding metal, resins and not just plastic parts. The main feature of the Nadfil is his durability. It will last you much longer than any sandpaper or nail file.

But nevertheless, the stacker will be used at the initial stage of work.

Model Kusachachi

Removing parts from the spruce with a model knife for a beginner may be time consuming, and in some cases a dangerous task. The knife wonderfully performs its work in skillful hands, and others can spoil a lot. Therefore, at the beginning of your career, it is advisable to use model laying for the separation of details.

At the moment, almost every manufacturer of tools and large-scale models has model plugs in its assortment. They cope with their tasks perfectly, leaving behind smooth clean edges and joints. It is advisable to acquire a qualitative and not cheap tool.

WORKING SURFACE

All your work on the model will be associated with cutting, dischailing, painting. It will be necessary to handle parts from plastic and other materials without fear to turn the surface of the desktop. You will create a model not a specialized room, but on your daily desktop. Therefore, it is desirable to prepare a special working surface. It can be like a piece of ordinary chipboard and a specialized self-healing rug.

Cutting board - the first help of the cook

It does not take a lot of space in the rolled state. Dramed with a graphic grid. Perfectly protects the surface of the table from the cuts and the tool scraps.

Model glue

Often glue into the model kit is not included. It can only be found in some gift sets and publications. Therefore, it is required to acquire separately. Comes in different packing versions. Either in glass jars or in plastic bottles with a needle. There are 3 types of model adhesives, differing from each other on the principle of action.

All the glue - all tie

The choice of the adhesive applied depends on personal preferences and the specific working task. I, for example, mainly using glue, dissolving the edges of the connected surfaces. And then create a solid connection from this.

So it turned out our very modest in size and value of the toolkit of the novice model store. Something like the name - the necessary emergency stock. As you progress in the development of mastery of large-scale modeling, you will become more understood the essence of the works. And start expanding your tool arsenal. But it is still ahead ...

In the meantime ... not postponing Start collecting your first model. And all your questions acquire a practical application. And you yourself will start answering them. And what do not know - ask. Write in the comments, or on my mail - in the Contacts section.

P.S. Do not forget to put like an article. After all, if she helped you - she will help another novice modelist. Good luck. And ... beautiful models you.

Bonding various models is one of the types of collectibles. From the rest, it is distinguished by obtaining pleasure more from the creation of the model itself rather than the fact of its acquisition. A man who at least once tried to glue the model of the aircraft with his own hands, can no longer refuse it.

People have long been dreamed of conquering heavenly gave. The idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a perfect aircraft was occupied by the minds of many famous scientists and philosophers. To this day, aircraft designers are improving technology every year and exhausted skills.

But what to do with simple mortals for whom the piloting of the aircraft is only an unrealized dream? The answer is simple to design. Moreover, today it is not necessary to apply great effort. It is enough just to visit our online store selling aircraft models or at all without leaving home to order your favorite model for gluing or assembling an airplane in the online store.

And in that and in another version you will get the widest choice of various on scale, mind, complexity of the assembly of models.

In addition, you can purchase ready-made radio-controlled models.

Today in the internet century, people engaged in aircraft modeling can communicate among themselves on the forums, share drawings and literature, arrange contests.

For many of them, modeling has become the embodiment of the children's dream of the sky. And for some just a pleasant leisure.