How to secure material when planing. Planing with a handbank. Setting the right position of the front of the plates

Often during the construction of the bath there is a need to get a flat smooth surface of the log, timber or boards.

Let's find out how to proper boards and bars.

To shock a flat surface, use the tools intended for this. The most basic ones are the Balbel, planer and Fuganok.

Barbel is used for rough surface treatment. It allows you to quickly remove the wood layer on the desired depth.

At the same time, the surface is not quite even, since the knife of the roebel has a rounded form, unlike a knife, has a smooth cutting plane.

If it is required to give the surface of a large smoothness, after the shrichel, it is necessary to walk by the Rubank. With it, the drawn surface is aligned and gets quite a freight form for further use.

If you need to get a perfectly smooth and flat surface, use a fugomenon.

If you need to get a few planed short details, it is more convenient to finish the entire board or bar, and then cut into short parts of the desired size.

For convenience during planing, the board or bar is fixed on the workbench so that the planed plane is on top, and the fibers were located along the direction of movement of the Rubanka and not towards. If the fibers are located to meet the Rubanka movement, then the wood will go and get rolled.

When planing, you need to firmly capture the planer with two hands and take a convenient position. Pressing on the plane, first remove one lane, then there is a second and so until the entire width of the planed board or bar is passed.

If the planed item is very long, then it is convenient to shock it first one part along the length, and then the following so as not to run every time to the very end. This will allow planing with the same pressure force on all areas.

Looking down wooden detail, At the beginning of the press, it should be slightly stronger on the sock, in the middle of the movement, it is evenly pressing on the sock and on the heel, and at the end of the movement slightly stronger to the heel, weakening the pressure on the sock. This will avoid the collars at the beginning and end of the planed detail.

After the desired layer of wood is removed, the decisted plane is checked, applying a long metal line with the edge. If the plane is observed, then the ruler over the entire length should come into contact with the planed surface.

If necessary, irregularities are corrected by Fugansky.

With the advent of electrolylands, planing the boards and bars was much easier. Therefore, if you have such an opportunity, then acquire the electrolabuck. This purchase will significantly reduce the cost of surface treatment.

We also recommend that you find an article about choosing an electrolyak, in which you learn how to choose electrolaws depending on the depth of planing, power, availability additional accessoriesAlso find comparative tables of the most popular models of electrolaws of manufacturers such as DeWalt, Makita. Skill, Bosh, Black & Decker.

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As you know, after drying, wood turns in different directions. As for wide boards, they turn them into width. In order to make the board smooth, a lot of effort will be required.

It's quite difficult to do with such a job with one tool. It is best to apply electrobuck and a planer machine. At first, if the board turned on the one hand, raising the edge, and on the other hand, the hump appeared in the middle, it is necessary to remove the protruding edges.

When working should not be made of deep planing, it is better to walk by the Rubankom several times. When planing protruding edges on a planer machine, there is a chance, to shoot one side greater, as the process is almost not controlled and squeezed the plane. As a result, one edge of the board will be thinner, and the other thicker.

After that, it is best to shoot the board on a planer machine, using clips or as we see on the video, turned upside down with the machine. Here as they say, the method is not important, but the result is important.

However, not all machine tools are lungs, so this method for more heavy cars will not fit. Therefore, starting to strict the curved board on a planer machine, we recommend for greater stability, especially from the humpback, pour into the pod of chips. Now a little priests to the bed of a mound, the board will lie tough.

When planing on the machine, the method of turning the board is used, if not enough width planing machine. In conclusion, I would like to say that in order to achieve a better result, the knives on the machine and the plane should be well sharpened, and you need to shoot at a planing at a minimum, it is better to walk several times.
Author of the RWT.

Electrolake allows you to quickly and efficiently perform a rough and finishing processing Tree. When working with large volumes of milking material (construction, furniture manufacturing), the use of electruruck can significantly save due to an almost double difference in the cost of processed and untreated boards. The only alternative to get comparable savings is to buy plastered boards from the manufacturer directly, bypassing intermediaries, which is not always possible.

Main advantages

The main advantages of Electrolakeanka:

• High speed;
• Simplification of many technological operations (a quarter sample, for example) due to the presence in the design of the corner stop, the side limiter and the adjustable depth of processing;
• As a result, an increase in productivity;
• When working does not need exactly verified physical efforts, as in the case of the use of a regular ruble;
• Additional elements can expand the plane functionality.

Criterias of choice

The choice of a specific model of the electrolabank is made on the basis of the following indicators:

• Rotation frequency. There must be at least 10,000 about. The presence of regulating electronics, which supports a stable rotational speed under loads - is welcomed.
• Power. The higher the easier work and more expense electricity.
• Planing width.
• Planing depth and its adjustment mechanism.
• Tool weight;
• Heating intensity;
• The presence of a dust collector;
• Sole condition (evenness);
• The presence in the market of spare parts (knives and belts) to this model.

Features of work

Technology of working with electruruck is quite simple. To begin with, the depth of processing is installed. Usually, this is done using a special swivel handle. Keep in mind that even on a zero value of depth Many models will be filmed chips, so we recommend paying attention to the models with the possibility of installing the minus value of the depth.

The processed board must be securely fixed. To do this, it is advisable to use a special workbench that does not allow backlash in either horizontal or in the vertical plane. Otherwise, the planer can snatch from the hands of an employee with unpredictable consequences, not to mention damage to the processable board.

The board must be installed in such a way that it is possible to move freely along it from one edge to another. All elements of the interior that prevent employee movement must be removed from the way.

The planer always keeps with two hands, and starts without contact with the treated surface. The passage is carried out along the fibers of wood.

When working, ensure such a ruble position so that its sole is parallel to the board. Press on the plane should be easy and uniform in the back and front.

Passage is carried out from the edge to the edge. It is not recommended to interrupt, as the homogeneity of processing can be disturbed. For processing wide boards A few consecutive passes are used in width (or originally selected plans with wide knives).

To create a chamfer along the edges of the material being processed, electroves has special grooves on the sole.

Electric choke - the most important tool for all who deal with wood processing, and during construction or repair it can become an indispensable assistant. At home homemade Master, as a rule, a fairly traditional handbank, but on a private compound or cottage plot Works with wood is abuse. Baths, housekeeping, fences, benches and other furniture - the list can be continued and continue.

Electrureanka will save the master of the mass of time and strength and will allow achieving good results. Electrolakeank bring billets to of the desired size, align the surfaces, remove the jar, burrs and swirls, cut the edges, choose the grooves. Rubankka, of course, not forces "thin" surface treatment to perfect smoothness, for this you will need additional tools. But with its main task - rough processing of wood in large volumes - electrourub, while compliance with the rules of operation, copes to "excellent".

As with the choice of any power tool, the master, choosing electrolabuck, should be repeated from the main tasks in which the tool will be most often involved. An important role is played by the power of the instrument with which its performance is directly related. The planes of greater power plays "deeper", that is, they can be removed in one pass a thicker wood layer. Manual electroulands are available in power in the range of 0.5 - 2.2 kW. Above one and a half kilowatt - already, in fact, professional instrument for large-scale work. If it is planned to use the plans often and in large volumes - it makes sense to look at the models more powerful. But, as always, the rule is valid: more powerful toolThe greater he weighs and the higher its price. A small capacity will be convenient to work on weight. Models of medium power weigh in the range of 2.5-4 kg.

Another indicator is the rotational speed of the drum, that is, the number of revolutions it makes per unit of time. This value is very important to take into account when choosing a plane, the user believes wind1Wind.: The higher the number of revolutions - the better the quality of the cut will be. Optimal optionTo which you want to navigate when choosing - 15,000-16000 revolutions per minute.

wind1Wind:

- The plane does not absolutely flat surface, and the "wave" with a very small step. In order for this waviness to be inconspicuous, and increase the number of ropped shaft and the number of knives on the shaft. These two parameters are very important when choosing.

Width Planing depends on the width of the cutting edge of the knives. The most "running" dimensions of the knives of household electrolabanks - 82, 102 and 110 mm. The higher the width of the planing, the less passes it will be necessary to do for complete surface treatment.

To simply process the board to a smooth surface, there is enough planer with knives, already than the board. But if the knife width does not overlap the width of the material being processed, perfect smooth surface It will not work - at least the minimum "step", but will remain.

Depth The cut is, in fact, the thickness of the wood layer, removed by the plane for one pass. In the household chores, it usually does not exceed 2 mm, in more powerful - 4 mm. Most models have a depth adjustment.

Electrical plants use removable knives of solid alloys and tempered steel. Most of them, even carbide, can be accurate and edit, but the narrow knives will not work out: their design does not imply sharpe. For separate models of Rubankov, a fixture for sharpening. You can make it and with your own hands.

OlegYch:

- For editing knives you need a glass of thickening and a couple of sheets of good emery paper. We smell paper in water, sculpt on the glass - and go ahead! But this is exclusively for editing, "enhanced" nails and knives and bricks - only on the machine.

Sole The planer in contact with the treated surface must be smooth and smooth. W. modern models Rubankov on its surface are made hardly noticeable grooves - grooves, preventing education in the process of work " airbag»Between the sole and material and, thus ensuring the uniformity of the cut. The grooves on the front of the soles are designed to remove the chamfer from the corners of the parts. When choosing a ruble on the quality of the sole surface, close attention should be paid, especially if we are talking about inexpensive models.

- The defect encountered from the Neblands of Rubankov is the so-called "drunken sole." We check this: I exhibit the adjustment of the removal to zero, the knife is displayed in the upper position. Apply the ruler on the length of the planer, alternately on both sides so that it lay immediately on both platforms. It seems between the ruler and the sole should not be any gaps.

When choosing an electrolyanka, it is important to hold the tool in your hands, understand whether the handles of the instrument, the start and adjustment knobs are convenient for you, whether its weight is suitable for you. Modern electrolabanks have many additional options and parameters that facilitate and enhanced the work process. But all of them, of course, increase the value of the instrument. Among the most popular options are the directional chips with the possibility of connecting the bag for its collection or vacuum cleaner, the system " smooth start"And revolutions. It all depends on the requests of the master and its financial capabilities.

A useful accessory is a universal ruler, which allows smoothly processing the surface, wider than the width of planing the plane for one pass, as well as planing at an angle of 90 degrees to the support surface. Often such rules come complete to the plane, but if not - it makes sense to purchase it separately.

The main works performed by the electrolabank, the newcomer to master is easy, and if you observe simple rulesThe tool will serve for a long time and efficiently. It is necessary to start to start only after the drum turned on the ruble completely gained momentum. And you should not immediately put the maximum planing depth: it is better to remove it in a millimeter twice than try to remove two millimeters at a time. It is not necessary to put pressure on the instrument with the effort: it should only be directed, and the planing of the planer should itself, "like oil". And for this knives must be sharp.

Wasteners starting to work with the electrolaws are not so easy to determine when the sharpening is needed or the knife replacement. Forumchanin Nomad advises to take advantage of visual methods. If the knives are sharp, the surface is obtained smooth. If stupid - wood rags are formed on it, since the knives are no longer cut, but they tear it. Another sign of stupid knives is brown from the high temperature of wood, especially in the area of \u200b\u200bthe bitch.

Aleksej2000:

- In yet the stupid knives of the planer begins to vibrate on the knots, as it should bounce fine: the knife does not cut and repel from the dense material. The best is to put new knives and try how they take. And then the feeling of sharp knives will be familiar. And these same sharp knives Try to walk around the bitch in order to see the difference.

A common problem with which beginner masters face is the displacement of the material being processed under the reference. Although the planer is one of the most safe tools, the risk of getting an injury, holding the wood with hand, still remains. The problem is solved by the manufacture simple lock Boards and side displacement limit Rubanka - how the forum user advises wind1Wind:

- In the width of the soles, the ruble on the workbench is attaching two lumps long no less than the processed boards. The sole of the plane should take place between them with a minimum gap, but without difficulty. From one end is attached a piece of rail, in which the board will be driving. Additionally, the board between the strokes can be fixed with a wooden clina.

So that this design worked, as it should, the end stop from the rails and the clins should be slightly smaller in thickness than the planed board, advises forumchanin. The bar must be, on the contrary, the thickness of the board being processed is about 1 / 2-2 / 3 thicknesses of the Rubbank. Then they will prevent the side shift rates during operation. On the other hand, the planer will not touch the servo the protruding parts of its design (belt casing, engine).

Features of the choice of electruruckans, the dignity and disadvantages of specific model forums are discussed in. You can read recommendations and get advice on proper work Electrolake. Experience in replacement, sharpening and editing knives for the Rubankov members are exchanged forum. On the repair of plants, milling mills and disk saws Look for information. On the basics of the work of the Electrolake tells this video.

Hello, readers blog "Build House". Almost all mechanical and electrical instruments require proper handling and timely adjustment. How to properly configure the mechanical branches, we have already considered with you in the last article by. Today I propose to consider the issue planing electrrubank. At the end you are waiting for working with this tool.

ATTENTION: So that the sawdust and chips are scored the Rubbank blade, use special bags for collecting shavings.

Electrolake can be used for chamfering with details. Based on the width of the necessary chamfers, hold the required number of times on the edge of the edge of the processed billet.

Complete to Electrolake

When installing a separate side stop on electrulacks (it is usually supplied in the kit), it can be performed. Emphasis, fixing the tool at some distance, should touch the workpiece being processed.

Important: If the surface being processed by the plane goes uneven, then you use stupid knives or made their incorrect release (see at the beginning of the article).

Depth fallety Depends on the number of passages on the billet on the billet. The more passes, the deeper Falts.

At the end of the planing, remove knives from the electrolablanka, flush them with kerosene and place in a separate box until the next time.

Video: Operation Electrolake

On this, you can finish this article about how to properly stroke the electrolabank. And in the next article, we will consider ways. What is also not very important when working with wood. So far, to new articles.

With respect, Vadim!