How to install a new compressor on a refrigerator. Compressor replacement in refrigeration technology. Step-by-step self-replacement process

Dear Clients! We have a master on duty to answer all your questions. By calling us, you will immediately receive professional advice on a defect in the operation of the refrigerator.

Attention! In our service center, from 10.06.2016, a new, flexible system of discounts is introduced both for pensioners and low-income citizens, as well as for ordinary customers. The amount of the discount depends on the type of repair and can be up to 10%. Contact us! All specials

Dear Clients! Be careful! Today, the total minimum cost of replacing a motor-compressor cannot be less than 6000-00 rubles. No one will work at a loss. If you are offered to replace the motor-compressor of the refrigerator for a lesser amount, you should think about it.

We all want to get a good result for the minimum money. But think about how often you are lucky to purchase a quality product or service for a paltry price? When choosing a refrigerator repair service, always remember where free cheese is.

Replacing the compressor (motor) of the refrigerator is a complex and time-consuming process. Work on its replacement refers to a complex (overhaul) repair. In order to replace the compressor (motor), it is necessary to first remove the refrigerant from the refrigeration unit, then replace the compressor (motor) itself and the starting relay, while during the repair process, it may be necessary to replace some other components that have become unusable. After carrying out the above operations, the tightness of the system is restored using high-temperature brazing. Then the system is released from air and charged with a certain amount of a specific brand of refrigerant.

How much does it cost to replace a refrigerator compressor?

Minimum full the cost of replacing a compressor of a refrigeration unit in our service center - 7500 rbl . The price depends on both the brand and the model of the refrigerator.

Below is the estimated cost of replacing a compressor for the most common brands of freestanding refrigerators.

Once again, we draw your attention to the fact that it is indicated estimated cost... Only a foreman or a duty engineer (senior foreman) can name the exact cost of replacing a compressor for your refrigerator model when agreeing on an order.

Owners of refrigerators Samsung, Electrolux, Liebherr, LG, Bosch and other high-tech brands should take into account that an inverter compressor can be installed on their refrigeration units. The cost of replacing an inverter compressor is significantly different from the usual one. The minimum purchase price for such a compressor is $ 180.

In the photo below: inverter motor-compressor. As you can see, outwardly, it is no different from the piston crank-connecting rod or crank-rocker motor-compressors installed on the vast majority of refrigerators. As a rule, it is possible to determine the inverter or conventional compressor (motor) installed on your refrigerator only after the diagnostics or by the serial number, product code of the unit.

Replacing a refrigerator compressor is a job for a professional

Refrigerating devices differ from other large household appliances durability, while functioning daily. However, they are also susceptible to breakdowns.

With frequent power surges, the compressor for the refrigerator is the first to fail. It is this mechanism that is considered the most important element systems that drive freon through the pipes, due to which cooling is provided.

In this article, we will consider existing varieties compressor and analyze the causes of typical breakdowns. We will also give detailed instruction to replace it with your own hands.

A broken compressor promises significant expenses not only for the purchase of a new device, but also for the work of a master.

However, you can go the other way and make a replacement yourself. Whichever option is chosen, first of all, you will need to select required type compressor.

Manifold air blower

Obtaining information from sources about innovative models of refrigerators, you can find such a thing as a "normal" compressor. However, not everyone knows the meaning of it.

This term refers to a collector mechanism with a vertically mounted electric motor shaft. It is mounted on a spring mechanism and closed in a sealed box, thereby providing a high degree of sound insulation to the system.

Older models used a horizontal layout, which made the unit more noisy - vibrations were reflected throughout the body.

It uses the standard operating principle and technology developed many decades ago - the supercharger works until the set temperature is reached in the refrigeration unit, and then turns off.

Refrigeration units can be equipped with one or two collector blowers. If there are two of them, then one maintains the temperature in the freezer compartment, and the other in the cooling unit. Nowadays, you can find two-compressor equipment less and less.

Overview models are equipped mainly budget options refrigerators and this is their only advantage over other representatives of the species.

Inverter type compressor

The upgraded units are equipped with an inverter type blower. A conventional compressor reaches its peak when it is turned off, while there are a lot of such repetitions per day, and, accordingly, it is subject to rapid wear and a reduction in its operating life.

Whereas inverter devices operate even with sufficient air injection in the chambers, periodically reducing the number of revolutions. At the same time, the wear resistance of the component elements is much lower, and, accordingly, the period of uninterrupted use is higher.

Linear view of the device

Innovative developments in imported equipment involved the new kind superchargers - linear. The principle of operation is similar to the previous versions of devices, but this type is much quieter and more economical.

Unlike conventional mechanisms, they do not have a crankshaft. By means of the action of electromagnetic forces, the reciprocating movements of the rotor are provided.

New modern models cooling devices presented in combination with inverter-type compressors. They work measuredly and smoothly, without amplitude differences, which are the main reasons for the wear of the mechanism.

Linear blowers are technically similar to the two previous analogues, but they have a number of significant advantages:

less weight;
a high degree of reliability during operation;
no friction in the compression plane;
application at low temperature conditions.

The main ideologist who took up the active introduction of superchargers linear type considered LG. Most often they are used in refrigerators with a system No frost having individual temperature regulators in different blocks.

Rotary blower with fins

Rotary (rotary) horizontally or vertically positioned blowers are equipped with one or two rotors and are analogous to a twin-screw juicer, however, the spirals of the screw type are unequal.

Depending on the principle of operation, they are divided into two main classes: with a rolling shaft and a rotating shaft.

A gap is created between the piston and the compressor casing with movable vanes. Due to the eccentricity of the rotor, its value changes during the reproduction of rotations, thereby blocking the transition of the refrigerant from one zone to another

In the first case, the unit is represented by an engine shaft with a mounted cylindrical piston located eccentrically relative to the center, that is, displaced.

Rotation cycles are performed inside the cylinder body. The gap between the housing and the rotor changes its size during rotation.

In the place of the minimum opening there is a discharge branch pipe, and the maximum one - a suction branch. A plate, in turn, is attached to the revolving piston by means of a spring, which blocks the space between the two nozzles.

In the second version, the principle of operation is similar with one difference - the plates are stationary and placed on the rotor. During operation, the piston rotates relative to the cylinder, and the plates rotate with it.

General algorithm of the refrigerator

The functioning of all refrigerators is based on the effect of freon, which acts as a refrigerant. Moving along a closed circuit, the substance changes its temperature indicators.

Under pressure, the refrigerant is brought to a boil, which is from -30 ° C to -150 ° C. As it evaporates, it captures the warm atmosphere located on the walls of the evaporator. As a result, the temperature in the refrigeration unit drops to a predetermined level.

In addition to the main pumping device that creates pressure in the refrigerator, there is auxiliary elements performing the given options:

evaporator collecting heat inside the refrigeration unit;
capacitor displacing the coolant outward;
throttling device regulating the refrigerant flow by means of a capillary tube and a thermostatic expansion valve.

All of these processes are dynamic. Separately, it is worth considering the algorithm of the motor and the principle of operation in case of its malfunction.

The compressor is responsible for the system regulation of the differential pressure level. The evaporated refrigerant is drawn into it, which is compressed and pushed back into the heat exchanger.

In this case, the temperature indicators of freon increase due to which it passes into a liquid state. The compressor operates with an electric motor located in a sealed case.

Having dealt with the device, we proceed to analyze the main factors of compressor breakdown, after which it will be necessary to dismantle it.

The main causes of blower breakdown

All problems in the compression unit are conventionally divided into two main groups: with a working and non-working motor. The first option looks like this: when you turn it on, you hear a sound from the compressor, the light on the refrigerator is on. Accordingly, in another version, the unit does not turn on at all.

Reason # 1 - refrigerant leak or thermostat defect

Here, the main reason may lie in the leakage of freon.

Conduct self check you can in this way: touch the condenser - its temperature will correspond to room temperature.

Inspection of the degree of heating of the condenser can reveal one of the reasons for the breakdown of the refrigerator - refrigerant leakage. In this case, the device will function, but the temperature in the chambers will not be maintained.

Another reason is possible - failure. In this case, the signal about the wrong temperature regime will simply not be received.

Reason # 2 - Winding problems

If the unit does not turn on, then possible reason may be an open circuit of the compressor windings.

Such a situation can occur both on the working one and on the launcher, or on two at once. When the refrigerator is connected to the network, the blower does not work, and the temperature of its block is room temperature.

Reason # 3 - turn-to-turn closure

The device starts up, but for no more than a minute. And the body gets too hot.

In this case, the turns of the winding are closed, their resistance is lowered, an increased current strength passes through the relay unit. The relay switches off the blower, a click will be heard. After the starter cools down, it turns on the compressor again and so on in a circle.

Reason # 4 - engine jam

When turned on, the operation of the electric motor is audible, but there is no rotation, the compressor does not compress, the resistance of the windings is at maximum.

Reason # 5 - valve breakage

Loss of cooling capacity is associated with valve defects.

As a result of such a breakdown, the unit works without shutdown and does not create the proper level of compression, respectively, the blocks of the refrigeration device do not gain the required temperature.

Often in this case, an uncharacteristic ringing can be heard. metal parts when functioning. You can find out by determining the degree of air supply.

You can confirm the presence of deformation of the valves by fixing the degree of air supply to the compressor. This requires a special device with a pressure gauge.

To make sure of the "diagnosis", you will need to cut off the filler pipe using a pipe cutter. We do the same with the capacitor filter.

Now, in their place, we connect the gauge manifold, turn on the blower and check the formed air compression level - the norm is 30 atm.

Reason # 6 - thermal sensor or starting relay

It is also necessary to check for defects such elements as the thermostatic sensor and.

With such a failure, the compressor either does not turn on, or turns on for 1-2 minutes. When checking the resistance of the windings, the nominal values will be fixed.

Step-by-step self-replacement process

If the reasons for the malfunction are not determined, the supercharger itself is subject to repair. And first, you need to remove it from the refrigeration unit and check its functionality.

Stage # 1 - dismantling the blower

The compressor is located at the back of the refrigerator in its lower part.

During the dismantling process, the following tools will be used:

pliers;
spanners;
plus and minus screwdrivers.

The blower is located between two pipes connected to the cooling system. You will need to bite them off with pliers.

The branch pipes through which the refrigerant circulates must in no case be sawed off with a hacksaw, because in the process small chips will necessarily form, which, when it enters the condenser, will move through the system, thereby leading to the rapid failure of its elements

The refrigerator is started for 5 minutes, during which the freon turns into a condensation state. After that, a valve with a hose connected to the cylinder is connected to the filling line. In 30 seconds with the valve open, all the refrigerant will be released.

Then we remove the relay block. Visually, it can be compared to an ordinary black box with wires coming out of it.

First of all, the top and bottom are marked on the launcher - this will come in handy during the reinstallation process. Having unscrewed the latches and removed from the traverse, we also bite off the wiring leading to the plug.

We unscrew all fasteners together with the survey device. We clean all the pipes for soldering the new device.

Stage # 2 - measure the resistance with an ohmmeter

In order to make sure that the component is in good working order, we will perform an external examination, as well as testing and checking its individual components. First of all, we inspect the condition of the motor. This can be done using a multimeter or ohmmeter.

As mentioned earlier, the power cable is checked initially. If he is a worker, we will examine the supercharger itself. To do this, we will use a tester.

The correct functioning of the compressor can also be checked using a handicraft method using charging: we put the negative probes on the body of a 6 V light bulb. Plus, we connect it to the upper leg of the power winding and touch each of them with the bulb base. If they are working properly, all of them should illuminate the lamp.

First of all, we remove the protective block and extract the content, disconnect it from the starting relay. Next, using the multimeter probes, we measure the wires in pairs.

We compare the results obtained with the table, which indicates the optimal indicators for this particular compressor model.

The data of a working device in the standard version will be as follows: between the top and left-side contacts - 20 ohms, top and right-sided - 15 ohms, left and right-sided - 30 ohms. Any deviations indicate breakdowns.

The resistance between the feed-through contacts and the housing is checked. Breakage readings (infinity sign) indicate that the device is working properly. If the tester gives out any indicators, most often it is zero, there are malfunctions.

Stage # 3 - check the amperage

After checking the resistance, you need to measure the current. To do this, we connect the start relay and turn on the electric motor. Using the tester's pliers, we clamp one of the network contacts leading to the device.

When working with a compressor, it is initially inspected for a breakdown of the casing, since there is a possibility of electric shock if the winding gives a voltage to the case

The amperage must be identical to the motor power. For example, a 120 W motor corresponds to a current of 1.1-1.2 A.

Stage # 4 - preparing tools and equipment

To replace a faulty refrigerator compressor, you need to prepare the following set of tools and materials:

portable station for regeneration, filling and evacuation;
an apparatus for welding or with a MARP gas cylinder;
compact;
ticks;
Hansen coupling for tight connection a compressor with a filler pipe;
copper pipe 6 mm;
filter-absorber for installation at the entrance to the capillary tube;
alloys of copper with phosphorus (4-9%);
soldering drill as a flux;
a container with freon.

You should also focus on safety measures when working with repair equipment. First of all, you need to equip an insulating platform and disconnect the refrigeration unit from the power supply.

Having dismantled the old compressor, it is imperative to prepare and clean all copper pipes for subsequent soldering with the new device.

After each refueling with freon, the room is ventilated for a quarter of an hour before soldering. It is not allowed to turn on heating devices in the room where the repair is being carried out.

Stage # 5 - installing a new compressor

The first step is to attach the new blower to the cross member of the refrigeration unit. Remove all plugs from the pipes coming from the compressor and check the atmosphere pressure in the device.

Depressurize it no earlier than 5 minutes before the soldering process. Then we dock the compressor pipes with the discharge, suction and filling lines, their length is 60 mm, and the diameter is 6 mm. The pipes are soldered according to the sequence: filling, removing excess refrigerant and discharge.

Now we remove the plugs from the filter drier and install the latter on the heat exchanger by inserting a throttle pipe into it. We seal the seams of the two contour elements. At this stage, we put on the Hansen coupling on the filling hose.

Stage # 6 - we put the refrigerant into the system

To fill the refrigeration system with freon, we connect a vacuum to the filling line with a coupling. For initial start-up, pressurize up to 65 Pa. By installing a protective relay on the compressor, the contacts are switched.

The evacuation process is the creation of a compression level in the cooling unit below atmospheric. By reducing the pressure in this way, all moisture is removed.

Connect the refrigerator to the power supply and fill it with 40% refrigerant. This value is indicated in the table on the back of the device.

The unit is turned on for 5 minutes and the joints are checked for leaks. Then it must be disconnected from the power supply again.

The refrigerant is charged in a liquid state. The required amount is indicated by the manufacturer in the parameters of the refrigerating device located on the back wall.

Perform a second evacuation to a residual value of 10 Pa. The duration of the procedure is at least 20 minutes.

Switch on the unit and completely fill the circuit with freon. At the final stage, we preserve the tube using the clamping method. We remove the sleeve and seal the pipe.

Soldering two pipes made of copper, carried out by an alloy of copper with phosphorus (4-9%). The docked elements are placed between the burner and the screen, heating it to a cherry color.

The heated one is lowered into the flux and melted by pressing the rod to the heated joint area.

A control examination of the solder joints is carried out from all sides using a mirror. They must be complete, without gaps.

Compressor service life declared by manufacturers is 10 years. However, its breakdowns are inevitable.

In the event of a blower malfunction, you can replace the broken compressor yourself, having previously familiarized yourself with all the safety rules and the stages of the upcoming work. Also for these purposes it is necessary to stock up on the necessary equipment.

If you still have questions about self-repairing breakdowns, ask our experts in the comments to this publication.

The cost is for informational purposes only and consists of the price of the compressor, the cost Supplies and works, in the case of air conditioners, dismantling and installation works are added external block.

The main criteria on which the price depends are the cost of the equipment itself, its brand, type and capacity.

In which devices the compressors are changed:

Air conditioners
Ice makers
Dehumidifiers
Refrigerators
Freezers
VRV and VRF systems
Chillers
Rooftops
Refrigerators
Freeze dryer

Replacing compressors in the refrigerator

In refrigerators, in the overwhelming majority, low-power reciprocating non-inverter compressors in a sealed case are used. The cost of such compressors is low, as is the time required to replace them - about 40 minutes, along with all the work.

But in Lately the number of inverter compressors increases (with electronic control) and linear compressors(for LG products), the cost of such compressors is higher than usual.

Replacing the compressor in the air conditioner

The main type of compressors used in air conditioners are hermetic rotary compressors with a capacity of 2.0 - 14.0 kW. Control type - not inverter in earlier models and inverter in production models recent years... Also a large percentage of scroll compressors.

The peculiarity of replacing a compressor in an air conditioner is the need to dismantle the external unit with its subsequent installation in its original place, which increases the cost. Otherwise, all work is the same as on other refrigeration equipment.

Replacing the compressor in dryers

The dryers use medium and high temperature reciprocating and rotary compressors.

Scroll compressors are also used in powerful installations.

Compressor replacement work

When replacing, the following work is carried out:

Diagnostics
Refrigerant evacuation
Dismantling the compressor
Flushing the system
Compressor soldering
Soldering filters
Refrigerant charge
Additive to the refrigeration circuit of anti-acid additives
System startup

Compressor selection

There are two ways to resolve the issue with the selection of a compressor - to purchase an original compressor or its functional analogue.

The first case is the simplest, since in this case it will fit exactly and there will be no problems with adaptation - fitting fasteners, soldering adapter couplings to the suction and delivery lines of the compressor, eliminating problems with excessive vibration, etc.

But this is not always possible for a number of reasons - the termination of the production of these products, the limitation of the work budget, or long term deliveries in case of urgency renovation works.

In this case, it is quite possible to choose a similar compressor of a different type and manufacturer, and a better analogue may be cheaper than the original.

Main characteristics for selection:

compressor power
type of refrigerant (freon)
dimensions

Compressor protection measures

To new compressor not out of order, it is imperative to protect it. For this, anti-acid filters, filter driers are installed, anti-acid additives are added.

It is also necessary to eliminate all the reasons that led to the failure of the compressor, if they were:

Eliminate freon leaks
Install the crankcase heater
Install oil lifting hinges
Establish an oil return to the compressor
Install undervoltage protection

In the event of a breakdown of the motor-compressor, a foreman is called in to replace the part. In this case, many are confused by the cost issue - the compressor itself is not cheap, and you also need to pay for repairs, the price of which can be several thousand rubles. If you manage to replace the motor yourself, just find out how much a new compressor costs and not overpay for repairs. Armed with detailed instructions and necessary tool, you can temporarily become a repairman for your own refrigerator.

We will describe below how the motor-compressor and the oil in it are replaced.

To replace a motor, you need to thoroughly know the principle of the refrigerator, be able to correctly diagnose a breakdown, paying attention to the signs. Before work, familiarize yourself with the device, the main causes of engine breakdown and their symptoms.

It can be roughly divided into three main parts:

evaporator;
capacitor;
compressor (consists of a motor and a relay).

If one of them does not function, and the rest of the units are in good order, the efficiency of the refrigerator is still lost.

The system is characterized by closed parameters. Freon is pumped out of the evaporator by the compressor, after which, under high pressure passes into the condenser, where it is cooled, from a gas it becomes a liquid and again goes to the evaporator. This is a continuous cycle of refrigeration equipment.

Unlike other parts, the motor is always on. It starts after a signal from the temperature sensor, which reports an increase in temperature in the chambers. The relay starts the motor to start cooling the compartments. When typing set temperature the relay is triggered and the motor stalls.

The first sign by which you can determine a breakdown is a temperature jump in the main chamber. It can be so warm in there that all food will go bad. There are other signs of failure of the main part of the refrigerator:

ice has grown on the walls (especially important for models with the No Frost function);

the motor is humming, but it does not produce cold, there is no refrigerant leakage;
clicks, rattling and other extraneous sounds are heard: noise, grinding, vibration.
the motor runs constantly, without stopping;
the food in the chambers is over-freezing.

Sometimes a cable or a broken wiring is to blame for a breakdown, so before starting repair work, you need to measure the resistance in order to protect yourself from injury.

Look for a spot that is free of paint to test for resistance. If there are no such spots, wipe off the coating with solvent. Take the tester and place its test leads to the body and contact. If nothing is displayed, then the device is working properly, and if there are numbers on the multimeter screen, it is very dangerous to repair the compressor at home. If you decide to work with such a compressor, be extremely careful.

To check the current, make sure the start relay is working. Take a multimeter with a clamp - it is more convenient to check with such a device. If the motor power is, for example, 140 W, measuring device should show a current of 1.3 A. The ratio of these indicators is the same if the motor power is different.

Breakdowns can be classified into two groups:

At first glance, everything works fine - the compressor is humming, the light is on. In this case, a refrigerant leak may be relevant, and you can check it yourself - touch the condenser. If it's hot, then there really is a leak.

The temperature regulator is broken, therefore, if it is warm in the chamber, there is no signal about it.

If the technique does not work at all, in every fifth case the motor is to blame. If this is not the case, it is worth checking the relay and temperature sensor. If they fail, they must be replaced. If no malfunctions of parts are found, the motor is to blame, and it needs to be replaced.

It is difficult to replace this part without the help of a master, but it is possible. Read on how to do this.

Before starting work, prepare the toolkit:

storage for freon gas;
valves (needed for puncture and selection);
burner.

Important! It is worth giving preference to an oxygen-propane burner.

To replace the compressor in the Ariston, Indesit, Atlant, Stinol or any other refrigerator, proceed as follows:

Watch the video to get it right:

How is the oil change in the compressor

If, after replacing the compressor or relay, it turns out that there is not enough oil in the system, then you need to replace or top up it. Before draining, changing or refilling oil, you should consult with an experienced master.

When else do you need an oil fill? We decided to consider this issue within the framework of this publication, because there are cases when oil is not filled in a new engine, then you will have to do it yourself.

Important! If the compressor does not turn off after replacement, the filling technology has been violated. Follow instructions carefully when handling technical fluids.

A container with new oil must not be opened until it is used.
Buy liquid in a container of such a volume that it is enough for one refueling, otherwise you will have to interrupt the process and buy more.
Do not transfer oil from one bottle to another or mix oils of even the same brand.
When removing used oil, you need to work using PPE - safety goggles, rubber or neoprene gloves. This is due to the fact that the oil may contain acidic impurities.
To understand how much oil is needed for an old compressor, focus on the amount of fluid drained.

What you need:

Vacuum pump;
filling hose with shut-off valve and screw connection;
pressure gauge.

Replacement process

Vacuum the system.
Close the service valves on the motor.
Connect a vacuum pump to one of the valves.
Reduce compressor pressure to minimum (approx. 0.1 bar). Stop the pump.
Unscrew the oil plug on the compressor and screw on the charge hose with shut-off valve.
Open the suction valve and run the freon into the compressor to slightly increase the pressure. Close the valve.
Open the shutoff valve on the charge hose to bleed air.
Open a can of oil and immerse the end of the hose in the container so that it reaches the bottom.
Close the shut-off valve. Start the vacuum pump again.
After the pressure in the motor is below atmospheric pressure, carefully unscrew the shut-off valve. You can now fill the compressor with oil.
To determine its level, observe the filling through the sight glass on the motor.
Close the shut-off valve.
Stop the pump and apply a slight positive pressure by adjusting the opening of the suction valve.
Remove the filling hose. Screw on the oil plug.

The video below will help you better understand the refueling process:

This filling method ensures that there is no moisture or air in the system. There is a possibility of a minor refrigerant leak, which can be replenished with the right tools.

Important! During refueling, make sure that the container with the oily liquid does not empty to the bottom, otherwise air will enter the system. If the precedent occurs, the oil filler plug is closed and the system is evacuated.

If oil needs to be added, this is easier. Use for this purpose oil syringe. Do not be afraid that air will enter the system when you open the oil plug, this is impossible.

If you have an oil pump, then use it - it doses the oil charge without reference to the pressure in the engine.

How long does the refrigerator work after replacing the compressor? It all depends on the thoroughness and accuracy of your work. If your Liebherr, Samsung or any other refrigerator is broken, you know how to replace the compressor and refill the oil. If this work seems difficult to you, do not take risks and call a mechanic.

Having made a step-by-step diagnosis of your Atlanta, have you established that the cause of the breakdown is in the compressor?

Remembering physics

From the school physics course, we know about the engine internal combustion... The compressor functions in a similar way. The scheme of his work for Indesite or Atlanta is the same. A piston and valve system compresses the freon, sending the heated refrigerant to the condenser. There it turns into a liquid state, enters the capillary expander. The compressor compresses the freon, then cools the gas in the condenser, allowing it to circulate in the refrigeration system. The process is continuous and cyclical. The compressor shuts down, including from time to time to perform the refrigerant compression function.

What refrigerator do you have - a Belarusian Atlant or one assembled according to the Italian patent Indesit, they all have the same motor, a similar arrangement of internal circuits. Reciprocating compressors are used in Atlanta and Indesite. Piston compressor equipped with an electric motor vertical shaft... The structure is insulated with a sealed casing. The included motor starts the crankshaft, which rotates and moves the piston. The refrigerant is pumped out of the evaporator by the piston and pumped into the condenser.

How to start replacing a refrigerator compressor with your own hands

Repair of refrigerators and replacement of the compressor can be done by yourself, having established the cause of the malfunction. If the compressor heats up after being connected to the network, the thermostat relay is most likely out of order. Replacing the refrigerator compressor relay is carried out even by an amateur. Does the motor suddenly turn off for no reason when the refrigerator is started? It is better to leave the replacement of the refrigerator compressor motor to professionals.

But you can try to replace the entire compressor.

What is needed

Check out the video and photo of the step-by-step process of replacing the refrigerator compressor with your own hands.

Then prepare the necessary tool:

oxygen-propane burner;
two valves: for piercing and refrigerant withdrawal;
leak detector;
electronic thermometer;
small pipe cutter;
filter drier:
copper tube 6 mm;
solder;
flux;
pinch pliers;
Hansen clutch;
charging cylinder;
storage tank for freon;
new compressor.

Observe safety measures. Do not start work with the device turned on. The repair equipment must be grounded. Work is done with gas - the room must be well ventilated. Free the refrigerator so you can easily lift and turn it.

Work process

When replacing the compressor of the Atlant refrigerator, any other refrigeration device, it is necessary to slightly extend the compressor. Having lifted it, break off the tube filling the freon, having previously cut it with a file.

Then you need to release the gas. Turn on the refrigerator for no more than 5 minutes. The refrigerant will move to the condenser. Attach the piercing valve with a hose connected to it from the cylinder, unscrew it for 30 seconds. The gas will collect in a container.

Solder a copper tube in place of the broken tube. Here is involved gas-burner, in the absence of a torch - a soldering iron will do. An incision is made on the capillary expander a few centimeters in order to break off the tube and unsolder the filter from the condenser. The compressor is connected to refrigeration unit two tubes (one for building up pressure, the other for removing excess gas).

It must be unsoldered from these tubes or cut off with a pipe cutter. The filter drier is cut off at a distance of 15 mm from the condenser. Remove the starter relay. Dismantle the compressor and remove it from the refrigerator. Strip the piping before brazing the new compressor.

When installing a new compressor, all steps are repeated in reverse order:

place the compressor in the refrigerator, securing it to the traverse;
the plugs on the pipes must be removed;
it is important to depressurize the unit 5 minutes before the start of soldering;
when removing the plugs, check if there is overpressure air in the compressor (this will be indicated by the noise of the exhaust air;
connect the discharge, suction and filling pipes to the compressor nozzles in stages, the filling pipe must be 6 mm in diameter and 60 mm long;
start soldering the seams on the pipes, adhering to the following sequence: filling, suction, injection, make sure that the burner flame does not go into the compressor branch pipe;
after removing the plugs from the filter drier, attach it to the condenser, connect a capillary tube to it;
solder the filter along the seams;
and put on the valve coupling half on the filling pipe;
check the quality of the soldering of all seams, they should be smooth, without unsoldered spaces;
fill with freon by connecting a vacuum filling station to the coupling and removing moisture from the system;
fix the start-up relay on the compressor by connecting the electrical wires;
turn on the refrigerator, fill the system with freon, leave for 5 minutes;
check with a leak detector if the tightness of the seams is not broken;
perform a secondary evacuation of the refrigerator, leave to work for 20 minutes;
squeeze the filling pipe, remove the coupling, solder the pipe.

Outcomes

Your refrigerator is ready to go, start the engine. Then you need to check the functioning of the relay. If it starts, then you have completed the task.

Having gained a positive experience with your own hands, you can now give advice if a similar problem arises from someone from your family or friends. And in difficult times, you can earn extra money by performing the now not difficult operation for you to repair the refrigerator.