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Evroleaging installation: Step-by-step instruction. How to put the lining: detailed instruction how to put the wall on the walls

The decoration of the lining of various surfaces inside the house is performed in order to give them an excellent decorative look. Currently, there are different types of materials that are combined into a single group. Working technology with them is different and depends exclusively from the selected product. It should be noted that all activities can be performed without construction qualifications.

It is customary to allocate the two most commonly used varieties of material: plastic and wooden. Installation of lining with your own hands in each case has some differences and individual features. But the process will need the same set of tools:

  • Screwdriver.
  • Perforator with the necessary nozzles.
  • Level.
  • Hammer and mall.
  • Electric jigsaw.

Separately prepared a wooden bar for crates and fasteners (self-tapping screws, kleimers, carnations). All work begins with a general event - the construction of the carcass.


Set of tools for mounting lining with your own hands

Installation of the guides on the wall

Installation of wooden lining and its plastic variety is carried out mainly on the frame. It is installed as follows:

  1. Wooden bar is well treated with antiseptic compositions. If the activities are held in a room, which is characterized by a constant average humidity, then you can impregnate only with primer.
  2. The surface is prepared in advance. There is no need to perform such work perfect, but the old coating should be removed, check the walls for mold and fungi, as well as to smell all the defects with putty.
  3. Marking is performed. The surface is drawn on the basis of how the lining will be located. The main thing is that the facing is performed perpendicular to the carrier bars.
  4. Wooden rails drill. The hole of the opening is 50-60 cm. These holes are transferred to the wall. The perforator is prepared space for dowels.
  5. Racks are strictly strictly in terms of level. If there is a breakdown, then plywood pieces are put.
  6. Thus, the framework is obtained, which consists of rails located in a certain order. The voids between them can be used to lay the insulation.

Construction framework

On a note! Many believe that the installation of the lining is better to perform on a metal profile. Indeed, this option can be applied, but only in extreme cases when significant irregularities are observed.

Fastening plastic product

This option has perfectly proven itself for premises with high humidity. Unlike wooden species, laying of plastic lining does not imply its additional treatment, impregnation. Therefore, it is much faster to work with it. The order is:

  • The starting strips of plastic are stacked on the frame. They can be mounted on the wall itself, but in this case it needs more thorough preparation.
  • In these strips there are holes in which the first fragment is inserted. It is immediately fastened with Kleimer.
  • Further, the procedure is very simple: the fragments are felt and fixed on the frame.

It is much more difficult to facing the walls with a clapboard, which is made of natural wood.

Various ways of fastening wooden lining

The decoration with wooden lining performed a little differently than its plastic variety. It is originally advisable to determine the method of fastening. There are three main options:


Wooden material laying options

There are two main options for laying material that differ in their direction. Namely - vertical and horizontal.

Vertical option

  1. The first fragment is fixed in the corner. For this, carnations are used, which will hide under the decorative corner. If there is no such an additional element, then the hats simply be bored with the windows, and the carnations are clogged very carefully.
  2. Be sure to check the clarity of the vertical laying. After all, any inaccuracy will lead to the fact that subsequent slats will have even greater curvature.
  3. The fastened element is fixed by kleimers. Next, the following lamellas are installed, which are first fastened and then attached.
  4. Every five fragments are verified using the level and plumb.
  5. The extreme finishing element is squeezed by the desired size.

Vertical way to install lining on the wall

Horizontal way

The internal finish of the house of the clap can be carried out horizontally, this happens as follows:

  • Installing lamellas comes from the ceiling. The groove should look down. If the lining has a shape of a rounded log, then its installation begins the top of the groove, it will hide the location of the dock.
  • The fastening technology is similar to the previous option. But it must be borne in mind that for a stronger fixation - the boards are filled with dies.
  • Running from top to bottom it is quite convenient to fix items on the carnations. The main thing is to finish them so as not to damage the front side.

Installation of lamellae horizontal way starts from the ceiling

On a note! A diagonal diagram looks very original. It is made on the frame, the racks of which are located more frequent steps.

Fastening the Ceiling

The trim of the ceiling by clapboard with their own hands is performed most accurately. The fact is that fixing the material is quite inconvenient, therefore the risk is increasing, damage the decorative surface. To make it all right, guided by the following instructions:

  1. The supporting design is going so that in its reliability there is no doubt. It depends on the safety of people living in the premises.
  2. Bruks are selected with a cross section of 2 * 2.5 cm. In length, they must be equal to the size of the ceiling. If the rails are turned short, they are stitched with each other with the help of the corners.
  3. Given that the dowel fastening step should be 30-40 cm.
  4. The fat fastening of the crate is checked by stretched along the walls of laces.

Directly covering lamellae looks like this:

  • The first element is set at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall. It is necessary to level the process of a possible shrinkage of the building and "games" of a wooden material.
  • The fragment is bent on galvanized carnations. It is necessary to do it carefully, because the board can crack.
  • As a fastener, it is better to choose kleimers, they are more reliable. They are fixed to the guides using self-tapping screws. Nails are not applied due to the fact that they can slightly relax the design, which will lead to its drawdown.
  • Next, each element is placed by fastening into the groove and fixation on the kleimer.
  • Difficulties may arise with the last fragment, it should be cut into the necessary size, given the indentation from the wall.

Ceiling clapboard clapboard
  1. It is much more efficient to perform when the material is already covered with varnish, this will allow you to process all inaccessible areas, as well as perform the work of the most qualitatively, avoiding possible drills and divorces.
  2. Finishing with lining inside the house in places of high humidity assumes that the lamellas will not enter into the grooves until it stops. This will avoid deformation.
  3. You can not beat the sinus with a hammer, it will lead to a damage of the material.

Approximately twenty years already, the lining is actively used as the material necessary for finishing works of various kinds.

As the basis of this material, they take natural wood, so it likes absolutely everyone: builders specializing in the finishing of premises, simple customers, as well as such owners of houses that are accustomed to various work on their own, because they already have experience in laying the lining.

This article will tell about how to properly carry out finishing work using lining. But at first it should be noted that this material is environmentally friendly.

The lining has a number of positive properties, it is:

  • the structure of natural wood, which has the ability to breathe;
  • attractive appearance;
  • easy installation method;
  • spectator alignment of any sewable surface;
  • the ability to create a warm and cozy atmosphere, which the lining can give an absolutely any room. Due to this, the material is very popular even with osuschestvlgeny final interior decoration, as well as during a plating on the outside of a country house, cottages, saunas and baths.

It is worth noting that the tree gives the room a warm atmosphere and a certain aroma, provides eco-friendly environment that allows you to prove itself during the finishing works in the sauna and bath, while the temperature in these areas has high and the humidity is almost always at the limit.

Similar factors do not allow the possibility of choosing other finishing materials, as they damage their health.

In the production of lining, a high-tech quadrilateral machine is usually used, designed directly for wood processing.

Due to the fact that such machines produce products that differ in thickness and profile, as well as due to the high quality of the processing and a special type of wood, all finished lining are divided into varieties according to the classification common in Europe.

In accordance with the quality, usually all manufactured products are divided into:

  1. Extra varietyit is an absolutely smooth treated board, which is deprived of various types of bitch and other damage that are mechanical, and its humidity does not exceed 8%;
  2. Sort A. or premium, it is a perfectly averted smooth board, without various kinds of damage, without a blue shade, cracks or chips, but it is permissible to have small and healthy bitch having a light color;
  3. Grade B. or standard, this processing of wood, performed at a high level, without chip, cracks and blue, but the presence of bright and dark bitch is possible;
  4. Sort S. (Economy), here you allow the presence of dropped bitch, small chips, as well as cracks, but not only exceeding the dimensions of 0.3 millimeters.

It is important to note that the humidity indicator for any of the listed varieties should not be more than 12% of the total mass, this figure is officially established by GOST.

In addition, the lining is separated into groups, depending on the wood of wood used in its production.

For this purpose, pine, spruce, larch, lipa, aspen, but a little less often use oak, maple and other solid rocks.

In the production of lining, the woody array of pine and ate is popular. This is due to the fact that they have a beautiful and golden texture, durability, compliance with various types of processing, as well as their availability. These properties allowed to make the release of lining on a mass scale.

The noble material growing in the territory of the Urals to the Far East is larch. True, the creation of a finishing material from such wood is impossible to make mass, due to the emergence of difficulties in the production process.

As for the linden and aspen, such wood is considered to be created specifically for use in many areas of production. If it is necessary to separate the bath or sauna, it is better to choose a linden lining, as other breeds in such conditions simply cannot serve for a long time.

In order to start working on the installation of the clap, you should calculate the total area of \u200b\u200bthe surface being treated, that is, where it is planned to lay the data of the boards. Then you need to purchase the desired number of boards, but it is important that you have a stock at least 10%. Currently, the lining is sold different lengths and you will only have to choose the most appropriate, as it is important that there are not a lot of trimming.

If necessary, to separate the living room inside, it is best to choose a material from pine or ate, the thickness of which should not be more than 16 mm, and the width is 110 mm. It is also recommended to check the percentage of the humidity of the boards, it should not be more than 12, if the indicator exceeds the given number, then the slot will begin to form, and the boards will be subjected to significant changes in the form.

As for the process of installation itself, in most cases it does not cause special problems even among those who are engaged in this work for the first time.

The next step to prepare is associated with the fact that it will be necessary to determine the direction of laying the lining. If the room is small, but with a high ceiling, then it is better to put it horizontally, it is turned on the long walls in a vertical position, as well as the material can be put in the form of a Christmas tree, though this option is best suited for the walls of the walls from the outside.

Installation of crates under the lining

Before installing the crate under the lining, the walls should be thoroughly aligned. If you need to sew walls in a wooden house, then for this log worshi, collected from nonocylized logs, it is recommended to pick up with an ax and then make smooth, and for this to use the plane.

Once all the actions described are completed, you can begin to mount the crate.

Recently, there are increasingly using the laying technology in a vertical position, and this will require the following steps:

  1. The upper bar is installed along the surface of the ceiling, and the lower - on the opposite side;
  2. How vertical bars can be found using a level or plumb;
  3. In the corners formed between the bars, you need to pull the threads in the vertical position, and then add the same after 1.5 meters;
  4. Bruks to fix on the wall better after a distance of 100 cm with a self-drawing. If the walls are rough spots, the entire crate should be made through a flat-lined at the bars, but it should be done in places where there are screws.

To create a batten is better to give preference to the bars 50 × 40 mm, which must be pre-treated with a special tool, like SENEZH. And if the crate is mounted on the wall of brick or stone, the bars are fixed using self-tapping screws, and is already under it to place a plastic plug. In case of acute need, you can take a wooden tube from plastic.

Put the wallboard on the wall

Laying the lining is best starting with the angle of the room, and the first board should be fixed carefully, and the position correctly can be checked using a level. After that, you can mount it to the bar of the crate.

Board is mounted in such a way that the ridge was in a corner, in the end slot will remain open and it is possible to drive a further nail or screw the screw. Just do it, it is necessary so that one installed board of the lining with its crest covered the place of fastener of the previous element.

Of course, the upper and lower parts of the boards can be attached openly, but the main thing is that it was near the edge, since in the future Hats nails you will be hiding under the installed plinth and ceiling eaves.

There are situations where the last board completely simply does not fit into the angle, then you need to cut an excess part with the electrolls, and it is recommended to do it along the wall tag. Also, during the installation, it should be considered that in the future the house may be subjected to shrinkage or expand the boards due to a high percentage of humidity, which means that the presence of a gap will be required from the upper and lower part, the size of which should not be more than 20 mm. At the end of the work, it can be covered with plinths, both for the ceiling and for the floor.

Registration of windows and doorways

The most difficult moment in such work, consider the design of the doorway and the window. Often, when when installing the walling, the queue is reached to the openings, then the boards usually go beyond its limits, so everything is unnecessary to decline the slope with the help of a pencil and remove with the help of a jig. At the end of the finish, these slopes are recommended to be separated by corners made of wooden or plastic material.

It is important to note that if you make a balcony of the lining, then its appearance will become very aesthetic.

Now you can consider the detailed laying plan on the ceiling surface in more detail. True, the order of work performed, as well as for the wall, remains the same. The only thing experts advise is to reduce the distance between the bars at least up to 80 cm, as it will increase the design.

In addition, in order to lay the cladding on the ceiling, it is often necessary to constantly customize the boards or buy them of such a length that will be more necessary, and this, of course, always causes a lot of difficulties.

The next question is the installation of lining in the bath and sauna, where it is very important to take into account the specificity and manufacturability of the room. It is also important to properly combine the simplicity and environmental friendliness of the material used.

  1. First, it follows to the ceiling and wall clamp to impose an aluminum foil and secure with the help of a bracket.
  2. Then it should be put on the surface of the walls and the ceiling, made only from the oxine or linden wood massif.

The lining is perfect for the finish finish of the ceilings, the outer and exterior wall sheath and even door facing. Regardless of the facing object, the panels are fastened along the same scheme. At the same time with the installation of the lining, you can easily cope with your own hands. Explore the main provisions of the instruction and proceed.

First step

Prepare the lining to the upcoming installation. Impress the material with antiseptic and antipiren. If you wish, you can additionally handle the paper panels or cover the paint of the desired color.

Give the treated lining to dry and bring the material into the premises. Leave one day. Wood adapts to the surrounding conditions, which will exclude the risk of its further deformation.

Second Step

Fit the crate to the surface of the surface. Reiki buy either Make yourself from an inch boards or 5x5 cm timers. Crepping elements with a step, 10-20 mM smaller width of the future insulation. Fixation performed with screws or screws. Step of placement of mounts - half meter.

Control the smoothness of the frame with the help of special tools.

Third Step

Cover the crate with waterproofing material (polyethylene film is attached to a construction stapler), put in cells the insulation (if required, the optimal material is mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover the thermal insulation layer with a steam barrier material (fasten the construction stapler).

Fourth Step

Attach the second crate to the wooden crate to isolation, designed directly to fix the lining.

The bars or boards are attached perpendicular to the future trim and at the same time perpendicular to the framework for insulating materials. That is, the method of fastening the skin (horizontally either vertically) needs to be determined for itself even before the fastening of the first crate.

The elements of the crates are treated with an antiseptic agent.

There are several options for fastening boards, and different fasteners can be used for mounting panels. Check out the information and proceed to finish.

Fastening options

Method of fixing the wallboard, choose at your discretion. The factory lining initially has spikes and grooves that allow you to fasten each subsequent plating board with the previous one.

To fix the wallboard, you can use brackets, kursimers, screws and nails. Fastening itself can be hidden or open.

The attachment method, as already noted, choose at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and high-quality, and the lining itself remains without damage. Hats nails and screws blend into wood.

The most accurate and at the same time with this is the most complex method of fixing the plating involves nailing nails directly in the grooves of the lining. So nails will be practically imperceptible.

For high-quality fixation of the boards, kleimers are perfectly suitable. Select the appropriate type of fasteners in accordance with the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On the one hand, the kleimer is present to the fasteners cut into the grooves of the finishing material. On the other hand, the kleimer must be knit or fasten to the frame. As a rule, in the kleimer set initially come nails.

Also available is an option for fastening the lining, which suggests the use of special brackets. In this case, an assembly gun is used. The bracket swells the grooves of the board and fixes it to the frame. To perform such installation, you need to have appropriate skills.

The lining is processed by the necessary impregnations, the crates are installed, the necessary insulation materials are laid, the installation method is selected. Now it remains only to fasten the lining directly.

Decide with the optimal direction of placement of cladding elements - this has already been stated earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal finish allows you to visually expand the room by making it visually more spacious.

With the vertical placement, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.

First step

Getting Starting Fastening. Start sowing the walls towards the floor to the floor. The grooves, at the same time, try to direct down - thanks to this, in the future, there will be no different garbage in them, which contributes to a significant increase in the service life of the trim.

Second Step

Lock the sheet of lining on the brushes of the crate. Use comfortable fasteners. Insert into the groove of the fixed board of the thorns of the next element of the trim. Secure it. In this order all scheduled space.

After every 5-10 elements of the trim, be sure to check the surface evenness using a plumb or level.

Third Step

Having reached the last board of the lining, tight it in the width of the usual hack or another suitable tool. Sweep the board with nails and hide the gap under the decorative plinth.

Fourth Step

Clean the surface of the finish from dust using a wet sponge. If you wish, you can paint the lining at the end, but it is optional - wood and so has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for the trim, externally imitating a rounded log, start finishing the groove up - so you hide joints.

Additionally, the panels can be customized with the help of a hammer by laying under it the cutting board - so the finish will be fixed without cracks.

Use self-tapping screws to mount the "rounded" lining. Tear fastener under 45 degrees. Between the panels of such a plating, place the processed timber. This will create a beautiful finish without gaps.

First step

Start mounting boards lining from the corner. The first board of the lining in the corner must be fixed with nails. Fixing caps will be hidden under the decorative corner. If you buy a corner there is no desire, simply bite off the hats with the help of the boom.

Second Step

Continue to fix the shelling boards until the entire scheduled surface is made. Work as well as with a horizontal finish, inserting one element in another and fixing alternately.

Third Step

Having reached the last boards, cut it in size and come to the carcass with nails.

In completion, it will only be forced to decorate the skin with special slats, plinth, as well as corners - these elements allow you to hide the joints and normally draw up the corners.

The ceiling is trimmed with the material under consideration in the same order as the walls. The only remark - the lining should begin to mount from the window opening to the opposite wall. With this placement of the shade between the elements of the facing will be less noticeable.

Thus, there is absolutely nothing complicated in the independent installation of the lining. To extend the life of the skin, every 2-3 years re-process it with an antiseptic and antipiren. Otherwise, follow the instructions, and you will create the most high-quality, durable and aesthetically attractive finish.

Good job!

Video - installation of lining with your own hands

Wooden lining - universal material. It is veins surfaces both outside and inside residential buildings, baths, utility rooms. The most common option is the covering of facades, walls and ceilings. But the floors are rarely found, which is logical: the thickness and shape of the board do not allow to create a high-quality and practical flooring from it.

However, when complying with some of the requirements when choosing and installing the material, it is possible to make such a floor in the bath, and in the country and in the apartment.

How to choose a floor cam

In order not to make a mistake in the choice, you need to understand the types and characteristics of the material. Therefore, first about them.

Types of lining

Class material according to several features. The main is sizes.

  • Available different dimensions. Its length can be any, the width of the board varies from 12 cm to 15 cm, and the thickness from 12 mm to 25 mm. The height of the ridge and the depth of the groove, by which the lamellas are connected to each other, is 4-5 mm.

  • Made by European standards. She has a standard thickness (13 mm, 16 mm, 19 mm) and a small range of sizes in width: from 8 cm to 12 cm. It is different from the usual and other parameters. In particular, on its reverse side, the grooves are cut to remove condensate, the depth of the groove reaches 8-9 mm, which makes the lock connection more durable.

For reference. Another majority advantage is in industrial processing with special compositions, which allows you to skip the stage of the antiseptation of the material before mounting. But it is higher than that of the clapboard the usual.

Another important classifying sign is the wood breed from which the lining is made. Not only decorative, but also the operational qualities of the material depend on it.


For example, the most fiscal option - fir. But its wood is unstable to rotting, so such lining is not used for external work and for finishing wet premises.

Facing profile affects the appearance of the surface.

Options Weight:


The most popular:

Finally, it is worth paying attention to the variety. Four them:

  • Extra - The highest grade of the lining, the lamellas that do not have defects: cracks, chips, dropping bumps, rot, resin pockets.
  • Sort A. Allows the presence of controversial bitch and microcracks, as well as no more than two resin pockets with a diameter of up to 0.6 cm per lamella.
  • Grade B. May have cracks up to 3 cm long and up to 20% of drop-down bitch.
  • Sort S. - The lining of the lowest quality in which any defects may be present.

Note. The degree of surface treatment depends on the fortiness. Low varieties are often produced in a unlocked form, so they have to bring them to mind with their own hands.

What lining is suitable for the floor

From the tree, the perfect flooring is obtained: durable, warm, relatively silent, natural. However, not any lining is suitable for its creation. Let's say more: it is not intended for this purpose.

But if you decide to use it, choose the material with the following characteristics:

  • Sufficient thickness. For the floor, only a plate with a thickness of at least 20 mm is suitable. And then, provided that they will be laid on a solid level basis.

  • Resistance to abrasion. Material made of soft and loose wood (pine, alder) quickly wear and lose sight. This indicator can be neglected with a small load on the coating. For example, in the storage room or in the bath.
  • Resistance to operating conditions. For example, the resinous pine is quite well opposed to the effects of moisture, but when exposed to a high resin temperature begins to stand out on the surface. Therefore, the lining of it is suitable for the floor in the pre-tribades, but not in the steam room.

It is important! Good heating will not withstand the glued wood board, even if it is deciduous and solid varieties. She will eventually flashed over time.

  • Profile board. It is clear that the floors cannot be made from blockhas or an American - it will not be possible to walk because of the relief. Classic lining with recesses at the joints and dust and dirt will be accumulated in them. One option remains a calm that creates a smooth surface without explicit protrusions and recesses.

Of course, the material of the material must be high, otherwise the surface exposed to serious loads is rapidly wear out and loses its appearance.

But you will choose a conventional board or eurry card, it does not matter much. Instructions in any case requires high-quality pretreatment of lamellae with antiseptic compositions and subsequent decoration with paint materials.


Laying clapboard on the floor

As mentioned above, the lining can only be laid on a solid, durable and even base. These may be leafy materials (OSP, chipboard, plywood) by lags or old boardy floor under the condition of its mechanical strength.


Council. It is not necessary to mount the lining immediately to the crate - its thickness is not enough to withstand a decent load.

Before mounting the coating, the base is prepared:

  • Repair cracked, joints, potholes;
  • Grind to perfectly even state. If there are pits or tubercles on the surface, the lock connections will certainly break on them;
  • Remove dust and garbage;
  • Covered the base of moisture-resistant primer or laid a moisture protective film on it.

Installation of lining to the base is performed as usual - on the kleimers. Either it is screwed to the base with self-draws, and it is very desirable to drill holes for them at an angle from the spike. The second plate is inserted into the groove already fixed, tightly beats and is also screwed.

Note! When laying on an old board-made floor, the lining should be treated perpendicular to the direction in which the boards are lying. Or diagonally. But the directions of the new and old coatings should not be coincided.

Also, do not forget to leave a small gap for the temperature expansion between the walls and the coating. He closes the plinth.

Caring for classes

The untreated tree quickly loses its appearance. To preserve the attractiveness of such a coating, immediately after installation, the lining should be painted, covered with varnish or handle with wax oil. Very light wood under varnish can be womb or used colored oil.


The rules for the care of the floor of the lining are as follows:

  • It is impossible to wet heavily;
  • Cannot be used to remove contaminants abrasive substances and solvents;
  • Cracks and dropped bits, should be embedded with putty in the tone of the wood.

Best of all before wet cleaning, walk along the floor with a vacuum cleaner, paying particular attention to the docking seams. If the coating still lost the form, there were indestructible spots and defects on it, it was possible to repair it, removing the old coating and the upper dirty layer using a grinding machine, and re-treated with paints and varnishes.

Conclusion

Installation of clap - the case is simple, any person will cope with it. Those who doubt their strength can study the video in this article in advance.

Another thing is the feasibility of such a decision. The flooring device of the tipped flooring will be no more expensive and will take less time, and the coating itself will turn out to be more durable and durable.

Lining on the floor justifies itself only if you have surplus material after decoration of the walls or the ceiling. But in this case, we do not recommend tempering it in large rooms with constant load.

In the modern interior of the designers, the "right geometry" theme of the finishing masters is popular. The main position of the exercise is to achieve the most correct interior from a geometric point of view. Even the meaning of the renovation rests on to get smooth parts of the room: walls, gender, ceiling. In our buildings, the walls are uneven since the start of construction. Sometimes it seems that the building was erected with closed eyes: numerous waves, emptiness on the surface, which is not always removed simply. So, if you try to make your apartment fit, at least some standards, then quickly proceed to align the walls.

Put the lining right

It does not matter what method you will sow walls, equal to them will still have to. Of course, the walls are often aligned with putty, but now this work is expensive, it takes a lot of time, it is complicated by finding a master who perfectly cope with the stretching of the walls. And even with such an equal wall of a successful result, you can not reach, because there are many plaster mixtures on the coolest wall defects. Many choose the walls of the walls by plasterboard, but it is only a draft version and it will be necessary to apply the finish finish in the form of painting, wallpaper, etc.

The easiest way to hide uneven walls with a clapboard or a shagel. It turns out neatly, effectively and smooth. And here it is not particularly important which material you choose - about it, regardless of whether your lining from wood, plastic, the result you will receive one - the perfect smooth monolithic wall covering.

The main thing is how to put the lining on the wall curves correctly and follow the necessary technological process.

Remember: The lining on a bare wall under no circumstances is not glued, it is not nailed, it is not screwed, especially if the question of equalizing the surface is raised. This technology was invented by lazy and "specialists" on the cutting of easy earnings.

Reiki, profiles on the wall are surface, mounted necessarily, only then the decoration in the form of a chaleservation is installed on the created frame. In addition to the equalization of irregularities, there is a space between the curve with a wall and finish, so that the moisture does not accumulate, ventilation worked. Imagine that your wooden panels will rotten from the walls of the wall? And under the plastic or on the wall "grow" a fungus? Will you disassemble? Do not argue with the linear expansion coefficient, when the material expansion occurs under the action of the temperature difference. And the video and photos on the sheat of the walls once again convinces the need for a frame for a punishment.

Horizontal and vertical installation of a chaleva

When everything is prepared and can be proceeded with the design of the crate, it's time to define: how your facing will be sent vertically or horizontally. The skeleton frame is always installed perpendicular to the finish: the horizontal location of the chalevka is the vertical location of the rail, the vertical lining is a horizontally located design.

The location of the plating panels will follow the goal that you put, equal to the wall. There are construction laws here: if you plan to visually expand the room, then cover horizontally. Want to raise the ceiling - choose the vertical location of the chaleva. Imagine that glue striped wallpaper, with the lining the same. So the question is how to put the lining vertically or horizontally, you can decide by viewing interesting images of rooms with a horizontal or vertical position of the chalevki.

If you plan to svew the wall curves on your own, then you will need to deal with the peculiarity of the vertical and horizontal arrangement of the finish.

Secrets of Masters

  • When planning the vertical location of the shagelevka, you need to install the boards to install sound wood, all traces of sawing properly go down. Such a casing will allow quality to separate all uneven and curvilinear wall surfaces. The vertical location of the shagelevka should be started from the corner. Vertical finish will perfectly cope with curved surfaces (photo).

  • The horizontal plating boards are installed with the sound side, the work on setting the finish is to start from the ceiling to the floor, trying to direct the grooves down. The spike of distillations with such a cladding will also be located at the top, thereby eliminating the accumulation of moisture.
  • Get curvilinear lines of the wall surface with this layout is very difficult, in some places the boards will have to even bend. During the work, you need to check the already installed finish all the time so that it is in a horizontal position. The skin ends at the floor, the very last board must be measured in width and cut down the help of the ax or a special saw, as in the photo.

  • Sometimes a fundamentally important is the location of the chalevka, for example, in a bath, sauna. In such premises, it is better to give preference to a horizontal method, since the finish at the bottom will be in the most unfavorable conditions and the deformed place will have to be changed. In the vertical position, replace the lining will be more difficult. How do you change the pioneer?

In an interesting way, the walls are trimmed by advanced masters, setting the lining under the oblique angle - diagonally. Watching such walls creatively, non-standard. But this method will have to spend a lot of time, and no special skills will work out.

Whatever the direction of laying a punishment or the most important thing is that your finish meets your requirements and served for a very long time.