How to properly assemble a log cabin from a bar. Log cabin: building independently of different types (from wild and rounded logs, timber), nuances. Warming and interior decoration

Log cabin from profiled timber: shrinkage, assembly with your own hands. A house built from profiled timber is something more than a roof over your head. This is a place of endless comfort, which has attractive external data and excellent characteristics.

This is due to the fact that only natural materials no glue and harmful impurities. Thanks to this, the house will have an unusual atmosphere, and you will always feel comfortable in it.

Counts:

• The naturalness of the material.
• Low thermal conductivity - thanks to this, even in the cold season, the rooms will always be warm.
• Reliability and durability.
• Uniform and fast shrinkage of the material.

Building a house from a log house

Key stages of construction from a log house of profiled timber

Self-made construction of log cabins is a very complex and time-consuming process, which cannot be carried out without special skills. The first stage of work at which difficulties are encountered is the choice of material. The profiled bursa should have a cross section of at least 200 mm. But if you are building a 7 * 7 log house, which will be used only in summer, you can take material with a smaller section.

Do not forget that during self-assembly, shrinkage should be taken into account, which will be from 10 to 15 cm. We will divide the process of assembling a log house from profiled 7 * 7 into five parts.

Process:

1. Scheme drawing, design.
2. Fill .
3. work.
4. and outside work.

Main processes

Building walls

Creating and building walls is a very important process that should be done with all care. We lay out the rows of timber very carefully. Each subsequent one must be fastened with the previous dowel. Thanks to this action, the beam will not move to the side. To install the pins, you will need to drill holes that will be 40 mm in diameter. This is the ideal indicator for the dowels to easily enter the hole.

Important: If you set out to build a house for year-round use, do not forget about the compactor. To do this, in one of the bars it will be necessary to cut a protrusion, and in the other, cut a groove with similar dimensions. The layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. Such a structure will general design more reliable and stronger. You can’t make mistakes in laying, as you will have to take everything apart and start over.

If the size of a log house made of profiled timber is more than 7 * 7, at least one partition should be installed on the first floor. This will be a kind of support for the flooring on the second floor. In the end, when building walls, you will need to cut down window openings. Determine the location for the windows and cut out the openings. When drying the material, it is important that they are well ventilated. After shrinkage of the profiled frame, you can proceed with the installation of windows.

Recent work in the assembly of the log house

This is the final stage of the assembly. You only need to insulate the building and do the finishing, as well as roofing. After everything is done, the construction will be officially considered completed. As you can use mineral wool / glass wool. Or is perfect for interior decoration, but the first option will be much better.

Ready log cabin - order or do it yourself?

A log house made of profiled timber is an excellent building with a huge list of advantages. In order for it not to lose its remarkable qualities, it is recommended to order or buy a ready-made building, since during the erection of one's own hand there are many errors and problems, due to which the final version of the dwelling will not be comfortable.

With self-assembly, many questions will certainly arise, the answer to which will not even be given by every specialist. Many people, for lack of experience, make serious mistakes, and this is as a result of error and a violation of the integrity of the structure as a whole. In this case, the good old saying works: “The miser pays twice”, since you have to redo everything, hire a specialist and buy additional material. To avoid such mistakes, there is a share of common sense to order or buy a ready-made log house from a reputable company.

Order and purchase - advantages and disadvantages

It is much easier to order a kit or buy a log house from a specialized company than to build a house yourself. This is due to such reasons:

Well, the main advantage in ordering a log house from profiled timber is savings. Indeed, it will be much cheaper for you to buy a ready-made building or place an order.

If you want to do the construction yourself, it will be more expensive for you for several reasons:

• The material will be purchased from specialized firms. But these same firms purchase timber at a cost several times lower than they sell.
• Material consumption. Do-it-yourself construction has never been without mistakes. A groove that you cut incorrectly or something else will lead to the purchase of new material. Experienced professionals are unlikely to make such mistakes.
• It is impossible to assemble a log house alone / together, so you will have to hire a team. Handymen who will help you will also have to pay.

Such costs usually exceed the payment for the order of the same log house in the company.

Additional advantages when ordering a log house from profiled timber

The advantages mentioned above are not the last ones on the list. When ordering or buying a finished log house, you will save time and effort. Even if you succeed on the materials (which is unlikely), it will take you a lot of time to assemble, and you will also have to wait for the shrinkage of the log house from the profiled timber. Contacting a company is a great option if you want to get a house in the shortest possible time, and you want it to meet all quality parameters.

You will also not be able to do the construction yourself in the winter. But this is not a hindrance for companies that, even in winter, assemble pediments, walls and partitions in production workshops. After that, they leave it for shrinkage and manage to do both the interior and exterior decoration by the beginning of spring.

The construction of glued beams has the following advantages:

1. The material of manufacture is winter wood, and it has a dense structure.
2. built in winter time, has a plus in the form of freezing moisture from the walls.
3. So it is much better ventilated, due to which good shrinkage will be ensured.

Price

The price for the construction of a log house will depend on many factors, which include the quantity and quality of the timber, as well as its cross section and the complexity of the construction.

Prices are approximate.

Results

Do not forget that you should order kits only from well-known and time-tested companies. Do not forget that different companies have different prices for construction. So, an order in a popular company will be much more expensive than in a less popular company, but the quality of work will be the same.

Do not forget, that when choosing a log house, you should carefully examine it and notice all the details. Before buying, study all the characteristics and evaluate the quality. The finished product can be placed and immediately begin finishing work.

In our time, as in all times, even those distant ones, when there were no cinder blocks, bricks, foam blocks, the construction of structures from a log house is very well known and quite popular. Any such structure is capable of recreating the atmosphere of Ancient Russia.

Do-it-yourself material for assembling a log house

It is not possible to make this type of house from every type of tree. If you want this structure to stand for many decades, you need to select tree species of special strength and not very expensive at a cost. Trees have such dimensions. conifers, such as pine, larch, as well as linden, willow, oak, aspen and birch.

When building a house from a bar with your own hands, you need to remember such a significant factor as the dimensions of the logs for the log house.

Here it is necessary to take into account the fact that the construction of the log house will be carried out from logs whose diameter is not less than 20 cm, but not more than 26 cm. It is necessary to use even logs, of the same thickness throughout the entire length and without cracks.

You can make a log house from a bar from 2 materials:

• profiled timber;
• rounded log.

These two materials have a number of advantages. The profiled beam has a square or rectangular section. It is processed on a special machine. After that, the sides of the beam, located on the sides, are flat, and the lower and upper ones are embossed, in the form of grooves.

The creation of a rounded log is made by processing an ordinary log to a shape in the form of an ideal cylinder. In this case, a special machine is used. He is able to remove the topmost, not very strong layer of the log.

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Log cabin and its advantages

A log cabin has many advantages. The most significant are:

• use for the construction of environmentally friendly material - wood;
• high strength;
• increased heat capacity;
• aesthetic appeal.

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Varieties of timber assembly

It is really possible to build a house from a log house with your own hands. This job does not require significant knowledge of woodworking. Construction begins with the advance drawing of the structure scheme, this will be repelled by the choice of mounting option between them.

It has several classifications:

• depending on the processing of logs;
• from the method of attaching logs to each other;
• depending on the layout.

It has to do with planning. It should be noted that the structure can be four-walled, that is, rectangular or square, figured, that is, semicircular, hexagonal, etc. You can make a log house using the five-wall assembly option. It consists in the presence in the layout of an intermediate wall (wall), for the manufacture of which a beam is also used.

There are 2 most famous options for attaching logs:

• in the paw;
• into the bowl.

You can install such a house using ordinary wood, glued beams. However, they are rarely used in construction. There is also the option of building a house from ordinary log and from glued laminated timber, but they are rarely used in the construction business.

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Log building tools

Before you make a log house, you need to prepare a tool for work:

• carpenter's ax;
• chisel;
• plumb;
• hacksaw;
• brace;
• shovel;
• pencil.

Don't forget to bring measuring tools:

• ruler;
• level;
• roulette.

To make a log house, you will need logs that will go to the future exterior walls. Their thickness must be greater than 22 cm. Logs for interior walls must be 19 cm thick.

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Log building technology

In order to build such a house on your own, you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of its construction:

1. Before you make a log house, you need to decide where it will be located. It is necessary that about construction site there was a decently unoccupied place where it would be possible to carry out installation constituent parts log house. Then you need to mark up the future structure, using pegs and a rope. The corners must be straight.
2. Next comes the turn of the installation of a temporary foundation. It is made using meter-long aspen chocks.
3. The installation of a log house is the main part of the work. The design will be stable if you carefully and carefully connect the longitudinal and transverse walls, as well as the logs to each other. To prevent the house from cracking in the future, it is necessary to make a cut along the entire length of the log.
4. Before you make a log house, you need to start laying the logs of the crown crown. They are located opposite each other. The side of the house, located inside, and the other, which is in contact with the foundation, must first be hewn. The clasps should have a width of more than 15 cm. Then sufficient stability of the crown and walls of the whole house will be ensured.
5. Before you start laying logs under the foundation, you need to lay boards that have already been treated with bitumen. The lining should have a thickness of more than 5 cm. A heat-insulating layer is placed on top, for example, it can be felt or tow.
6. Next comes the turn of the walls. They are placed in horizontal rows - crowns. A house built from a bar with your own hands should not have a skew of the walls, therefore, the tops and butts are alternated. In the logs in their lower parts grooves are made, through them the rows are connected to each other.
7. If you decide to make a timber with your own hands, then do not forget that the wood shrinks when it dries, so you need to make a draft. It is necessary to mark the log house and disassemble it. Put the logs in a dry room. final assembly construction must begin after 1 year. When you complete the draft version, do not forget to make holes for the spikes 2 cm deeper than the designed values, and the log house itself - 10 cm higher. You need to leave gaps above the openings of windows and doors, which will then be hidden by heat-insulating material.
8. After placing the walls, caulk all the seams on the outer and inner sides of the structure along its entire perimeter. You can’t caulk the entire wall at once: this can lead to a distortion of the house. A year later, it is desirable to repeat the caulk. Near windows and doors thermal insulation material change to wooden bars.

Every family should have a place where they can feel safe. For many, this is their own home, spacious and bright. Within its walls, you can gather with all your relatives and friends, spend time together and enjoy every moment. In any house there is a special, cozy atmosphere that you don’t want to leave.

For all these reasons, people want to have their own home, no matter what it will be - small or large, one-story or two-story. AT recent times log houses are gaining more and more popularity. This is due to the environmental friendliness of the material, its beautiful texture and qualities that protect against cold and wind. A log house built with your own hands will become the real pride of the family and will last a long time.

The first step from which you need to start building a house from a bar or a bath with your own hands is to develop a project. This is the most interesting stage of construction, in the performance of which you can give free rein to your imagination and ingenuity. Developing a project from scratch in a special office will require a lot of money, so it’s better to spend a few days on planning yourself.

So, the project must necessarily contain a diagram of the future home with all the details. It is necessary to indicate where it will be located, what materials will be used for construction, where they will be purchased, at what cost, and much more. Everything, even unimportant moments of construction, should be indicated in it.

The foundation is the key to longevity

The foundation is the basis of any house or bath. The reliability of the construction will directly depend on its quality. The foundation is the support of the house, which consists of:

1. sand cushion;
2. soil;
3. Reinforcing frame;
4. Concrete;
5. Holes for ventilation;
6. Waterproofing.

In total, several varieties of the foundation are distinguished:

• The strip foundation is a reinforced concrete strip that stretches around the entire perimeter of the house. This tape is laid under all walls of the building;
• The columnar foundation is erected in the form of pillars, located at all intersections of the walls and at points on which there is a large load. It is economical and reliable option, which can only be used for houses with low weight, for example, the construction of a house from glued laminated timber is often performed on this;
• Pile foundation - a structure consisting of piles. Most suitable for large buildings.

Laying the foundation requires a lot of attention, as this is one of the main processes in the construction of a log house or a log bath.

Wall assembly

Timber for walls is usually cut at the corners for proper installation. Building the walls of a log house from a 150x150 timber is not so easy, but on the Internet you can watch a video of professionals in which everything is shown. So, laying the walls begins with the first crown, which needs to be given a lot of attention.

First, be sure to take care of waterproofing. If it was not laid during the construction of the foundation, then you should think about it before laying the beams. It is necessary to lay roofing material on top of the base in two layers, and then lay longitudinal boards treated with bitumen. Only then can the first crown be laid.

Options for assembling the walls of a log house 150x150 or a bath from a bar:

Roof of the house

After the height of the walls has been brought to the desired level, you can proceed to the felling of the roof with your own hands. This is a difficult process, which you can see with your own eyes in the video. The design of the roof for a log house or a bath can be of any kind. by the most the best option, and it is considered common gable roof. It consists of two elements - a truss structure and a roof.

The truss structure is the basis of the roof. Rafters - its constituent components, the fastening of which is carried out using staples and nails. If it is planned to carry out heating or gas in the house, then it is necessary to provide holes for pipes.

The next step is laying vapor barrier film, on top of which you need to sew the slats of the counter-lattice, after which the batten is installed. After that, the material from which the roof will be made is selected, and then the process of laying it goes on.

floor laying

Building a log house from a bar with your own hands is not an easy task, in which you need to be careful. Otherwise, living in the building will be inconvenient and not comfortable. So, you should definitely consider installing the floor. Most often they are made double, and a heat-insulating layer is laid between them. In the process of making the floor, a cut board is used.

It is stitched underneath. When hemming, you need to carry out all the stitches evenly and accurately, otherwise, after a short use, the boards will begin to come off. Also, a cranial beam is used to install the floor, the fastening of which will occur to the logs.

To install the floor, you can use modern coatings. They will cost a little more, but they can change the interior and design of the whole house.

Ceiling installation

Ceiling - important element any home. In a log cabin, it will consist of several elements (located from top to bottom):

• Filing. This is a decorative element that every person will admire;
• Vapor barrier layer. Thanks to him, moist air from the room will not get to the beams. Thanks to the vapor barrier, the rafters will not start to rot;
• Warming. This is the layer of insulation that warm air will not leave the house through the roof.

Door and window openings in the frame

In order for a person to enter the future house, it is necessary to install doors. In order for light to enter the building, windows are needed. However, just installing both windows and doors will not work - special openings are required.

Openings can be made in two ways:

1. In the process of making a log house or a bath. This is a complex technique, since it is required to calculate in advance correct location windows. The bars are selected in a special size and stacked so that there is an opening;
2. After the construction of the frame. This sawing method must be carried out with a plumb line to mark the places where the sawing will take place. The process is completed using a chainsaw. In a specialized video you can see all the nuances of the work;

The next step in the design of door and window openings- pigtail. Thanks to it, you can strengthen the opening and ensure the free location of the bars. The main purpose of the casing is to maintain the shape of the openings after shrinkage.

Timber house finishing

Finishing a house or a bath from a log house is an obligatory moment in the process of building with your own hands. In total, there are two scenarios for the development of events - leave the outer walls unchanged, treating them only with a protective varnish or covering decorative elements. This is not an easy choice, because the texture of the wood looks beautiful and attractive, but also modern options I want to try finishes. For decoration, you can use lining, siding or block house.

The interior decoration of the log house is reduced to two processes - mandatory and additional. The first option includes flooring, as well as the installation of windows and doors. Additional include the design of a certain interior and style in the house.

Plumbing, electricity and heating

If you wish, you can take care of all the benefits of the modern world. The first of these is water supply. It can be of several varieties - autonomous or centralized. Centralized water supply will come from one main pipe. The advantages of such a connection is the ease of installation work, the disadvantage is the dependence on the central water supply. The stand-alone option has several advantages, among which is that the water supply is carried out at will.

An important point that includes the construction of a house from a profiled beam or another type, as well as a bath from a beam, is heating. It can be presented in different forms - do-it-yourself heating installation, the use of portable equipment or underfloor heating. There are several options, from which you can choose the one that suits you best according to your taste and budget.

Today it is impossible to do without electricity. Laying the wiring will not leave any difficulty, as well as installing switches and sockets. However, when carrying out these works, do not forget about the rules of fire safety.

Do-it-yourself log cabin is considered a difficult task, the execution of which will require a lot of time and effort. It will be more difficult to build a comfortable and convenient frame without special skills or a little experience. It is recommended to take the help of specialists, and always be prepared for additional costs.

One of the oldest building structures - a wooden frame - is now confidently returning to individual construction. The reason is not only the prestigious appearance of log buildings: a log house breathes very well - in summer it is not hot in it, in winter it is warm without additional insulation, and the humidity is kept optimal. Putting a log house with your own hands is a rather difficult task., but feasible for a hardworking and attentive beginner, and saving money in this case, compared with a custom-made log house, can be 2-3 times. But no less important is the fact that the service life of a home-made log house can exceed 100 or even 200 years, while the standard for chopped building structures is 40 years; really the best typical log cabins cost 50-70 years. Reason - to put a log house for several generations, you need to observe a lot of subtleties in your work about which this article is written; they will also help to extend the life of a typical log house and make it more resistant. Good carpenters most often know them, but not every millionaire can afford to pay for such painstaking work. And with your own hands, for yourself, it will cost only about a year of extra time: before the construction continues, the correct original log house must stand from heat to heat through the winter.

Preconditions

Not only before the start of work - before all thoughts about them, you need to clearly understand certain rules and apply them to your own conditions. After that, the material is selected - a wild log, rounded, timber - and the actual construction technology.

Bar, cylinder or savage?

Dimensional sawn timber is commercially available up to 12 m long. But edged 3- or 4-edged timber can be spliced ​​in length (see below), so a log cabin on a normally buried foundation can, in principle, be very large, at the top left in fig. below. A profile bar for a log house is quite expensive, but it is sold in ready-made kits for the house, baths, etc. (see the figure on the right), which are often accompanied by standard project. Its approval passes without problems, and the log house itself can only be assembled according to the attached instructions and let it stand for weight shrinkage for the time indicated there. The real service life of a house made of such a bar will be 60-70 years, and with high-quality caulking and regular annual care (renewal of the impregnation outside) - up to 100 years.

There are no reliable ways to connect longitudinally round logs, therefore the maximum length of a round log house is 12 m outside. You can add living space by erecting an extension along with the house and on a common foundation with it (at the top right in the figure), but taking into account all the restrictions on cutting into a log house, the width of the extension is no more than 2/3 of the length of the wall to which it adjoins. Maximum possible variant of this type - a log house 12x12 without piers, from each wall of which sticks out an extension 6x6. The service life is the same as that of a timber structure, tk. rounded log is actually a kind of profiled timber.

Fundamental rules

A wild log house made from self-purchased and prepared logs can stand for more than 200 years; log cabins from wild logs are known, which are more than 600. A wild log is not a measured material and can be harvested more than 12 m long. But the assembly of a log cabin from a “savage” is so peculiar that we will return to it a little further, but for now we will complete the analysis of log house construction rules (see fig. and list below):

• The fire safety of log buildings is not higher than average. Impregnation with the best modern flame retardants (impregnating materials for fire resistance) will extinguish a burning rag that has fallen on the floor and slow down the spread of flames from a strong fire so that people have time to evacuate and, possibly, partially remove property. But, even if the fire is quickly extinguished, the remains of the house will have to be demolished and a new one built.
• The cost of the materials themselves for a cheap wild log house is at least twice as much as for a frame or panel house the same usable volume.
• The complexity of building a log house is very high. If you manage to make a log house for 12 crowns over the summer without experience (this is a ceiling of 2.5-2.7 m), and at the same time you will waste no more than 10% of the harvested material, then you are a nugget carpenter.
• A chainsaw, a drill, and perhaps a stationary circular saw and a planer will greatly help to reduce the time of building a log house, but the proportion of skilled manual work is still high. To assemble a log house, just swinging your arms until your bones ache is not enough. It is necessary to work measuredly, carefully, slowly, all the time using the eye, accuracy and ingenuity.
• It is possible to build a log house from a wild log for a bathhouse or a non-residential house (dacha, country summer, hunting) on ​​an unburied foundation on soils up to strongly heaving.
• The assembly of the log house is carried out entirely at once - along with the chopped porch, veranda, summer kitchen, hallway, dressing room, etc. outbuildings. There are technical possibilities to postpone the completion of the entire building “for later”, see pos. 1 in Fig., they are technically not very acceptable: the duration and nature of the shrinkage of the log house is significantly different from those of other wooden building structures.

• Cutting a log house into a corner without residue (see below), which significantly saves material, will require the use of joints that are asymmetric about the longitudinal axis of the log or beam. In this case, the overlapping ends of the units of material must pass from one side of the corner to the other on odd and even crowns, pos. 2. A template for marking grooves and spikes can be used alone, but when marking the next crown, it must not only be rotated, but also turned over so that the marking comes out in a mirror image. To do this, the sides of the template are marked "H" (odd) and "H" (even).
• Do not put the log house on the backing bars, pos. 3. The log house does not need either a bearing support or a damping pad - it holds itself. The foundation is covered with waterproofing and a log house is assembled right on it. And the slats under the frame can be, and often are, a loophole for rot and pests.
• The installation of the log house is carried out immediately on the spot, i.е. on the foundation of the building, while immediately making a rough caulking stretch (pos. 4); however, . Assembling a frame to make it easier to work upside down next to the foundation and then shifting crown after crown into place is a crude hack, suitable for temporary or completely unassuming buildings, for example. taiga winter quarters.
• The floor in chopped buildings is made only floating, pos. 5. Embed bearing beams floor (beams) into logs or beams of a log house is unacceptable!

Building from timber

A log cabin is suitable for all types of log buildings. It is the most resistant, durable and can stand on a non-buried foundation on moving soils. So let's start the analysis in more detail with him.

Tool

In addition to the usual building to a tree, a special tool, which was mentioned above, is absolutely necessary to cut down a log house. For the construction of a cut timber frame, you can do without it.

You will need at least 2 axes: a carpenter's with a straight blade and a carpenter's with a convex one, on the left in fig. If there is a chainsaw, a cleaver is not needed - with its help, the logs are cut in half in the old fashioned way and chipped off from them. An ax with an asymmetrically convex blade (top right in the figure), and a set of adzes (bottom right) will also be very useful. A wooden sledgehammer-barsik will greatly improve the quality of work and reduce the muscular efforts required for it by 2-3.5 kg, in the sidebar.

The devil's carpentry tool will be absolutely necessary. On sale under this name there are many semblances of calipers, but they only get accurate markings on the most expensive rounded logs. A real carpenter's trait is a weighty, rough, visible tool (see the figure on the right), which allows you to mark manually debarked wild woods. You can make a line for marking logs yourself (see the drawing at the bottom right in the same figure), and it will be more convenient to work with it: a longitudinal through hole is drilled in the handle away from the axis for a guide pin, which is fixed with a screw or wedge. With such a feature, even a completely green one, but a neat beginner will be able to correctly mark a very clumsy log, see below.

About wild logs

It is a wild log house that can withstand hundreds of years, gradually caking into a kind of monolith. A house or a bath is made of wild logs that breathe into full force. If the Finnish bathhouse can still be built from galvanized logs or timber, then the original Russian bathhouse is cut only by a “savage”. How to put a wild frame for a bath, see for example. video

Video: log cabin from a wild log

To understand the secrets of a wild log, let's look at the structure of its cut, see fig. on right. The wild log is debarked by hand along, and not rotated in a peeler; therefore, it is necessary to purchase wild timber for felling from the loggers, and from sellers - only unbarked. When manually debarking logs, the cambium is preserved - layers of wood of a special structure. In a living tree, it is the cambium that gives the trunk an increase in thickness and the formation of the layers underlying it. And in the frame - the best breath of the tree; in a Russian bath - the optimal ability of the walls to receive and give off heat. Manual debarking (barking) of logs is a laborious task, but if you want your descendants to be surprised: “In great-grandfather he built!”, Then it’s worth it, see the video:

Video: removing bark from logs (barking) yourself

Note: cambium is most developed in the ancient contemporaries of dinosaurs - coniferous trees. In flowering dicotyledons it is thinner and of a different structure, while in monocotyledonous trees (eg palm trees) it does not exist at all.

Lumberjacks sell wild forest for self-delivery most often freshly felled or, sometimes, last year's, otherwise it makes no sense for them to give a discount (and a considerable one at that). Wild timber purchased from loggers for a log cabin, and taking into account the payment for a timber carrier flight, will cost much cheaper than even a bare log aged at a timber exchange. Which also look for - here it is more profitable for merchants to give the savage for processing and sell the seasoned lumber. That is, the purchased wild forest will need to be dried in their pile, see the plot:

Video: drying timber for a log house

Which one to buy?

Of great importance for the stability and durability of the log house is the time of harvesting wood. A number of experts believe that the best wood for a log house is chopped in the second half of summer and early autumn. At this time (after seed maturation), the tree's own moisture content is the lowest. The natural moisture in a tree is not just water, but juices from nutrients attractive to pests. Closer to winter, the tree again gains sap for wintering: in winter it sleeps, but lives, and maintains its life with reserves of sap. Indeed, the Mediterranean peoples cut down ship timber at the autumn equinox, but in regions with severe winters, this argument is invalid.

In the Nordic countries the best forest for a log house it was always considered winter. The point is not that in the old days the forest was cut selectively - logging by quarters in countries rich in wood was practiced centuries before the appearance of the Gulag and convicts; The NKVD used the already proven methods of forest management. And it’s not that it’s easier to take a log out of the forest on a sleigh than on a cart: the carrying capacity, cross-country ability and maneuverability of a horse-drawn sleigh outside a well-trodden road is worse than that of a cart.

The point is in the ways in which the tree is protected from freezing moisture in the vessels. If the juices of the tree freeze, it will die without being damaged by frost. higher plants"got used" to use one of the anomalous properties of water - in the capillaries, its freezing temperature drops; nanotubes manage to keep water viscous, but still liquid at –130 Celsius (!). Coniferous plants are very ancient, their vascular system is not yet so perfect, so for the winter they add more resinous substances to the juices; it is this juice that flows out in the spring when conifers are tapped onto the resin. From a tree cut down in winter, water evaporates during drying, and the resin remains. In a loaded structure, it is still fluidly squeezed out to the open ends of the vessels, where it quickly bituminizes in the air and blocks the way for pests, and only occasionally very rare species of them are able to bite into or leak spores through a dry cambium.

Note: as a result, the highest quality timber for log cabins is harvested in regions with high air humidity, abundant snow and fairly low winter temperatures. In the Russian Federation - from Karelia in a strip to the south to the Pskov region.

Log selection

Not measured timber for suitability for processing is rejected by geometry very roughly, and measured timber is calibrated as far as the properties of wood allow: 1% in length. That is, the curvature of the log, and, more importantly, the difference in the diameters of the butt and top parts of the pole (butt and top of a raw business log) is allowed 1 cm / m. If you throw logs into a log house as you have to, then the warp of a 3x4 m bath from 10 crowns of 30 cm logs can run up to half a meter. Therefore, the logs prepared for the log house must be sorted before drying, disassembled along the sides of the building, and marked - which crown of which wall and in which direction will fall.

If you collect a log house in bulk, it will turn out the same as on the left in Fig. below. Not only is it not worthy normative term- for a 12-crown, due to the need to trim each crown, it will take 4 more logs. Which cost a lot of money. After 5-10 years, the log house splits in bulk, caulk climbs out of it, and rots or is affected by a bug. But the frame, assembled from logs, the butts and tops of which are mutually oriented from crown to crown (on the right in the figure), only settles down and gains strength over time.

In a log cabin made of rounded logs, it is also desirable to orient the butts with tops in the opposite direction; this increases the real life of its service by 1.5-2 times against the calculated one. In both cases, in addition to the evenness of the calculation, the direction of convergence of annual layers plays a role. The resinous balsam is squeezed out more towards the butt, and in a properly folded frame, the logs seem to help each other resist external influences. It is difficult to determine the direction of the convergence of the layers according to the texture of the rounded log, and on spruce and larch it is often impossible, but the “tails” of the knots serve as an excellent indicator: in crowns adjacent in height, they should be in different directions, compare on the left and right in Fig.

Note: when sorting logs into a log house, put those that are thicker on the crowns, which are lower. Up the thickness of the logs should decrease. How can a beer bottle stand better - on the bottom or on the neck? A log house made of logs, dispersed in size in height at random, will stand at best for a standard period.

Which cut?

A log house in a corner has one advantage: a significantly lower material consumption. The correct protrusion of the obla is from 1 foot, i.e. more than 30.5 cm. Now they give an oblo of 20-25 cm, but this also reduces the maximum possible service life of a log house from this log by 1.5-2 times. A short oblo makes sense only in a frame made of re-glued logs. Let's estimate: a log house in the oblo 6x9 of 12 crowns. A total of 96 protruding ends of 30 cm each - 28.8 m of a log! The obla took either almost 5 short logs, or more than 3 long logs. For money - it bites painfully. In all other respects - in terms of strength, rigidity, durability, appearance- a log house in a corner is inferior to a log house with a remainder. Especially - in terms of durability: none of the log cabins, which are more than 100 years old, are cut into a corner. The obla serve as a kind of bituminized plugs that do not let pests into the tree, and the grooves of the log house (see below) are closed. The ends of the logs in the corner are more open to external influences.

crown crown

Salary is the lowest and most responsible crown of the log house. The quality of the entire log house as a whole depends a lot on the quality of its assembly. The conditional plane covering the flashing crown must be horizontal, so the logs for it are selected and prepared very carefully.

Not only in RuNet, but also in many old printed manuals for carpenters, one important point bookmarks of the flashing crown: what to do with the gap between it and the foundation, which is formed on 2 sides, if the flashing crown is done like the rest (shown by red arrows in pos. 1 and 2 of the figure)

Lay with a board or a beam? Gate for harmful living creatures, rot and mold: there is no cambium on lumber. Lay the foundation with ledges (pos 3)? And where is it said about such people with SNIPs? It will crack when settling. A correctly crowned crown of a log house, especially a log house for a house, is assembled using a half log (pos. 4):

1. On the short sides of the log house, 1 (one) thickest log, the least converging to the top, is selected; ideally cylindrical.
2. On the long sides, 2 logs are selected, possibly more equal in thickness and also less converging at the tops.
3. Edges are removed from long logs for laying on the foundation so that the heights cross sections logs from the plane of the edge to the top of the cut D were equal along the entire length, see below.
4. The log on the short sides is halved lengthwise or a chopping block is cut out of it (still useful) so that the height of the resulting slabs T is equal to half D along the entire length.
5. The slabs are laid on the foundation.
6. Long logs are placed on the slabs with the edges down and the tops in opposite directions.
7. A line is marked on long logs for cutting grooves for assembly into a flake (an inverted bowl, see below).
8. Long logs are removed and grooves are selected in them.
9. Long logs are put in place - they will be protruding halfway over short slabs.
10. Further assembly of the log house is carried out in accordance with the daily manuals (see below).

Note: do not forget here and everywhere further when selecting grooves, give an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking! And how to make a carriage for a chainsaw for longitudinal sawing of logs, see the video below.

Video: carriage for longitudinal cutting of logs for a log house

How to remove edging

Removing the edge from long logs (they, by the way, are called beds in the crown, and short croakers are called boys) for laying on the foundation is also a responsible matter. Walking along the bed with a chainsaw will not work, you will have to work with your hands. Bring down the edge into the prone, as shown in the inset at the top left in fig. lower, maybe an experienced carpenter, and even then in a hurry. The fact is that the ax under its weight will turn with the blade down, and the tactile (muscular) feeling of a person has a threshold of sensitivity. A beginner without developed muscular skills will feel the departure of the ax when he is already biting below the cuts (see below), automatically turn it up, and the whole edge will turn out to be humpbacked. Correctly, the edge is removed from the bed with an ax in the air (see also the figure below):

• From a pair of beds, a thinner one is chosen, placed with its top (!) On a support (preferably in a groove on it) and temporarily fixed with brackets, pos. 1 in fig.
• The axial (central) line is marked with a plumb line, a notch is made along it on the support, and a plumb line is marked corresponding to the width of the edge in half the diameter of the log (forming the edge). Measure the height of the bed at the top D, pos. 4, pos. 2 and 3.
• Shift the bed with a butt on a support. On a plumb line, the axial one is set vertically at the top. D is laid on the butt, and according to the marks on the butt and the top, the outline of the edging is beaten off with a coated cord, pos. 4. It will turn out to be a little divergent, but when laying down it top line will be horizontal.
• Repeat operations with another bed, setting aside the resulting value D on its butt and top.
• They put beds on the boys, mark the bowls on them and collect the crown crown, as described above.

Longitudinal grooves

Before continuing work, we will decide what will be the longitudinal grooves in the logs of the log house, or buy logs with which grooves. The stability and durability of the log house depend on this more than on the methods of cutting, because. it is the longitudinal grooves that keep caulking, and, if they are incorrectly executed, represent the most comfortable spot to start warping and/or introducing rot and pests.

The corner groove (pos. 1 in the figure) can be cut with any ax, incl. marching. But it needs a lot of caulking, and when the log cabin shrinks and shrinks, the wings of the groove diverge, revealing layers of wood without cambium, less resistant to external influences. Waste material is large. It is used for self-construction of non-residential buildings in haste from waste or free materials, for example. taiga huts from deadwood.

The lunar groove (pos. 2) is often called Canadian, and the angular Russian, which is wrong. Both of these grooves are Russian, because the traditions and techniques of wooden architecture were brought to Canada and to America in general by the Russian pioneers of Alaska. The lunar groove does not open during shrinkage / shrinkage (pos. 3). To cut it down (see below), you need a carpenter's ax, or, better, an ax, or, even better, an adze. The disadvantage is that the caulk needs quite a lot of rough (in a puff), and to it - high-quality finishing (in a set).

If a log house is cut from a wild log, then so that the rudimentary crack goes as it should, and the groove is made shallow, 2-3 cm, longitudinal pioneer washed down (marked in bright green in pos. 2). If the frame is made of galvanized or glued logs with a moon groove, then it has already passed its own shrinkage and shrinkage, and only the weight remains in the structure. Then a deep, through the entire sapwood to the core, a pioneer gash is made on the vault of a log, pos. 4a. Under weight load, the groove will not diverge by itself, but will compress the arch of the lower log.

Note: cracks will appear over time outer surface logs, but they are not dangerous - they do not violate the strength of the structure and arise when the core of the log turns into pure lignin, which is unsuitable for the settlement of pest germs.

You need to be very careful when choosing ready-made logs with a moon groove (and Finnish, see below). The groove must sit on bottom log wings in a small, up to 7 mm, gap inside, pos. 4a. If the upper log sits on the lower one, somewhat softening the professional jargon, “booty on the pussy”, pos. 4b, i.e. the gap is “squeezed out” onto the wings of the groove, this is an unacceptable marriage - caulking from such a groove will immediately climb, and a log house from such logs is unlikely to stand for more than 10-15 years.

Finnish groove, pos. 5, is also performed without an upper cut on wild logs (pos. 5a) and with a cut on rounded and glued logs, pos. 5 B. Moss suitable for caulking a log house is less the further north, and flax, hemp (on tow), and even more so jute, do not grow in Finland. Therefore, the Finnish groove requires a minimum of rough caulking and does not require finishing at all. However, you can choose it only at the sawmill or, manually, with a special tool being a very experienced carpenter. Just in case, we give a drawing Finnish groove for the most common log with a diameter of 260 mm (see the figure on the right); the required accuracy is 0.25 mm.

Log cabin in oblo

Depending on local conditions and the type of foundation, a log cabin can be assembled into an oblo different ways. It will come out of the wild forest from the harvester and not overly expensive.

Cutting the logs into the bowl, see fig. below., or Russian (but - see above) is the easiest: the marking of the bowl and the longitudinal groove is carried out at the same time along the upper log, which is not processed deferred, see fig. on right. The upper log is placed in place, the groove on the lower crown is marked with a line. The upper log is removed, the groove is selected, the upper log is put back. Marking accuracy maximum possible: good log house in a bowl can be folded from completely clumsy junk logs. But the stability of the frame in the bowl is low, even if it is from a selected winter savage - water flows into the bowl and the longitudinal groove. Temporary and non-residential buildings are hastily cut into the bowl; sometimes - log cabins with a relay. They are collected away from the foundation upside down (from the upper crowns to the lower ones) and then the crown by crown is transferred to the foundation, see above. This is a bad way, because either during a rough assembly, the log house will not converge exactly, or, if you do not give allowances for caulking, it will come out initially slitted.

Assembling the log house into an okhlop, i.e. into an inverted bowl (“Canadian”, and again - see above!) requires careful marking and selection of grooves (see below), because they are also marked in place, but separately, and the upper log after marking is processed separately to the side. But every one of the log cabins, which are over 100, are collected exclusively in a hood.

There are several varieties of grooves in the upper log for a log house, see the right in fig. higher. A cut into an okhryap is also called a Russian castle, and from this point of view it is “even more rustic” - choosing a groove with a flat bottom is much easier than a circular (semicircular) one. It is used for non-residential buildings (baths, etc.) without internal load-bearing partitions; if on a non-buried foundation, then on stable, well-bearing (from 0.7 kgf / sq. cm) non-rocky and slightly heaving soils.

Cutting into a comb into a comb (sometimes they write - into a oval comb) is made for the same buildings, on the contrary, on moving soils in areas where the tree is not subject to decay. A little common way, because. water flows into the longitudinal groove, and the upper log must be removed and processed to the side to select the groove. The cut into the okhryap with finishing (edging) of the ends is decorative - this is how log cabins are placed, the outer and inner surfaces of the walls of which are hemmed under the finish. Log cabins for residential buildings are placed in a hood with a fat tail in areas where the tree is prone to rotting, on moving soils, and in a hood with a fat tail and a comb - on them, but in drier places and where pests are not so common.

Marking logs for a log house

The marking of grooves on logs for log cabins in the oblo and in the corner is done in various ways, but in both cases it requires the utmost accuracy from the master. And therefore it is considered in one section.

When marking the logs of the log house into the flank, the bowls are first marked (on the left in the figure; the calculated ratios for both grooves are also given there), but they are not cut down yet. Attention: if you put up a frame from a wild log, then the diameter d for marking the bowl must be taken from the lower, already laid in the frame, transverse relative to the new log!

The longitudinal groove is also marked in place and along the lower, but now the longitudinal log, i.e. lying under the new, pos. 1 on the right in fig. It is extremely important not to skew the line (pos. 2), so it is either put on the hammer handle or equipped with a guide pin (see above); experienced carpenters do not disdain this technique, who care primarily about the quality of work, and not about window dressing.

After marking, a longitudinal groove is first sawn under the sample. With a chainsaw (pos. 3), this is not so simple: you need, without seeing the end of the blade with the chain, to draw it exactly along the arc of the circle, so many craftsmen still prefer not to cut the groove, but to cut it with an ax or, in extreme cases, carpentry axe. In any case, cuts / notches are made evenly along the length so that the groove is, as it were, divided into squares. After that, the groove is cut down with diagonal blows with a carpenter's ax (pos. 4) or, better, with an ax. If the log house is made of wild logs, this is enough - the logs will sit tightly on top of each other. If the groove is on a rounded log, then it is not completely selected with an ax, but is brought clean with an adze. Now you can also choose a groove-bowl, lay a rough caulk and put the log in place.

Note 6: the selection of grooves and the laying of logs in place are carried out in pairs - two short, two long. After assembling each crown, its horizontalness is checked and, if necessary, trimmed. And do not forget about 5-7 mm allowances per caulk!

Log cabins in the corner (corner) are assembled almost exclusively in the paw. There is no need to use methods for connecting beams (see below) on a material length of up to 12 m: round log much stronger and stiffer than a rectangular beam of that transverse area.

How to mark logs for a log house in a paw is shown in fig. A paw with a notch is used if any of the sides of the log house is longer than 4.5 m.

If you are going to put a log house in a paw, be sure to consider the following: first, due to the transition of the spike and the groove under it from one side of the corner to the other on odd and even crowns (see above), the markings must be made, respectively, straight or mirror. The second - when assembling from a wild log, the smallest of the diameters of the logs of the previous already folded crown is taken as the base size for breaking down into 8 shares in height (see Fig.). The matter turns out to be troublesome, therefore, often the upper and lower edges are removed from the logs for a log house in the paw, so that a semi-edged timber of the same height is obtained. Then the same template is suitable for marking, the log house will come out stronger, warmer, and more suitable for a bath. True, it will cost 4 extra logs for 3-5 crowns, so in the end, a log house made of logs in a paw turns out to save material only in length, and its consumption in cubic meters may turn out to be even more than not chopped into a cloud.

About the reinforcement of the log house

When dismantling old, but still quite suitable for their intended purpose, log cabins on either side longer than 14 feet (4.27 m), it turns out that almost all of them are additionally fastened with oak or beech dowels, see fig. on right. The strength of a log house made of wild logs on dowels acquires extraordinary over time: it can be torn off the foundation with jacks without gun carriages, loaded by a crane into the back of a truck and transported intact to the museum. And if you still need to break it, then sometimes you had to use a ball-woman, otherwise the disassembly turned into an unbearable burden.

The diameter of the dowels for fastening the log house is 40-60 mm. Length - 100-130 mm. Blind holes for dowels are drilled 1.5-2 mm after marking, processing the fit in place of all logs of the next crown. In rough caulking, holes are cut out for dowels at the site, on the contrary, 3-5 mm wider. The dowels are carefully hammered into the lower log with a leopard. Then the top log is placed and set in place with a heavy piece of log with a handle, the same as a wooden rammer.

Log cabin

A log cabin is predominantly “homemade” - it gives, in addition to the ability to increase the size of the building (see above), walls that breathe more freely than log cabins, which is more suitable for residential premises. A bath from a bar is best obtained by Finnish or Russian light family, see video:

Video: do-it-yourself log house using a bath as an example

Longitudinal connection

The possibility of building up beams for a log house in length is so significant that it should be stopped in the first place: if the joint of the beams disperses, then the best thing that will follow is a complex repair. And in the worst case scenario - temporary eviction from the house and the bulkhead of the log house.

Connection in a direct lock (on the left in the figure) is the most reliable mechanically and technologically simple, but locks. It is recommended to use it if it goes under an additional finish that protects against moisture, for example. siding sheathing. The connection in an oblique lock does not draw in moisture, however, it is more difficult to perform and it is less durable. The junction of the beams into an oblique lock must be reinforced with dowels fastening the crowns (see below), 0.6 m on both sides.

Half-tree connections, straight and oblique (on the right in the figure) with dowels at the joint in the log house, are absolutely unreliable: operational stresses can simply cut off the dowels, and the beam will suddenly turn out of the log house; especially if the joint is oblique. The author of these lines, in the days of his rather careless youth, had a chance to witness how a beam “shot” from a log house killed a covener on the spot. Literally brains blew out spray. The case is already painful, and then there is the investigation - the corpse after all. The local district police officer sided with the hard workers, but an investigator for especially important cases came from the region. And this Stalinist last child with a circular mark from a cap on the brain, instead of all the convolutions, was tightly sewn up where people have thoughts: nothing happens without a culprit. The accident is a Trotsky-bourgeois invention. As it turned out, not at all from ideological considerations: in order to please the excuse for this, I beg your pardon, garbage from the Soviets, the team had to fork out almost half of their summer earnings. There was simply no more available. As the men discussed this incident among themselves, the boatswain from the flagship of the fleet of Peter the Great would have heard. But enough of the black lyrics, back to the topic.

Corner connection

A log house from a bar can also be assembled into a cloud and into a corner without residue. It is not so rare to put log cabins in the field: more or less “primordially” they still look, but most often log cabins are still assembled in a corner: the savings on material here are not relative.

Methods for assembling a log house from a bar into an oblo are shown on the left in fig. The half-tree connection is the simplest and least durable. It is used for non-residential buildings of small size (up to 4x6 m) without load-bearing partitions. There is no big difference to put such a log house in the okhlop or in a bowl, because. grooves with a flat bottom and sheer walls. The connection in the fat tail is used if the log house is made of beams that are composite along the length; in okhryap - for log cabins of residential buildings from a single bar. Most of the sales kits for log cabins are prepared for joining in ocher.

The connections of the corners of the log cabin are shown at the top in fig. The butt joint of high-quality bars noticeably saves material, but is fragile. Assembly on a plug-in spike for corners is rarely used, and only for buildings no larger than about 3.5x5 m. More often, a plug-in spike connection is used as an additional one when installing load-bearing partitions.

If, however, the corner of the log house is butt-joined on the plug-in spike, then it is highly desirable to use a pair (more precisely, three) spike-groove (s) of the dovetail type, see fig. The thorn itself is made of hard, thin-layer hardwood, resistant to external influences, for example. oak. A mirror template for marking the dovetail is not needed, it is enough to alternate the overlapping bars of the crowns adjacent in height.

The connection in the paw is most often used in log cabins of baths and non-residential buildings; we will dwell on it below in more detail. The butt joint on the root spike (see Fig.) is technologically the most difficult, but durable, suitable for residential buildings and has the most valuable quality: it allows the use of defective warped timber for the assembly of a log house. After a year of exposure to shrinkage, it levels out, and if you remove it from the log house, it will be no worse than the standard one. However, at least 4-6 high-quality bars should be placed in each of the log walls between the “screw” ones, i.e. it is impossible to buy a complete substandard for a log house at a cheap price: the connection in the root only allows you to put into action a marriage that accidentally wormed its way into the party; In no case should you put a defective beam in the crown crown!

When assembling the log house, the warped beam is gradually pulled into place with hoists, in the course of straightening it is fastened with the already laid dowels, see fig. on right. When it comes to the spike, it is cut to fit into the groove, hammered into place with a leopard and wedged, turning the very end of the warped beam so that it fits snugly on the bottom. Now we need a technical break in work for 2-3 days, so that the strongest internal stresses disperse in the forcibly stuffed timber.

The half-tree connection on the plug-in spike is rarely used, because. requires the most selective ideally even timber of natural drying (not in a heat chamber or microwave). It is more used when installing partitions, butt joint on the plug-in spike, see fig.:

Note: about the corner joints of a log house from a bar, see also the video review below.

Video: about the corner joints of the beam

Partitions in a log house

Another important advantage of a log cabin is that it is much easier than a log cabin to partition it inside with both load-bearing and simple planning bulkheads. Methods for inserting partitions into a timber frame are shown below in fig. above with the connection diagrams of the timber.

Butt joint assembly on a plug-in spike is used to install light bulkheads: it does not weaken the frame itself, and the bulkhead beam may not be the same size as that in the frame. A half-pan tie-in (so to speak, on a dovetail “half-tail”) is most suitable for load-bearing partitions of a residential building, because. practically does not weaken the chopped box, but, on the contrary, strengthens it and itself adheres to it tightly. The spikes of the semi-frying pan should be mirrored from crown to crown (shown by the red arrow).

The insertion of a single partition with a frying pan (dovetail) weakens the frame, but strengthens it if the box-shaped structure itself, which holds the load well, is attached: chopped canopy, summer kitchen, bath at the house, etc. chopped extension on a common foundation with the house. On the 2-sided main tenon, partitions are cut that are subject to periodic operational loads; preim. thermal. For example, enclosing the kitchen, cold hallways, a bathroom, or next to which there is a house stove. In this case, the tie-ins on the root spike of the crowns, starting from the 2nd, should alternate with butt joints on the plug-in spike (shown by the red arrow), otherwise the frame itself will be excessively weakened.

Installation of a log cabin

The main problems of a log house from a bar are the transverse displacement of the bars due to warping and squeezing out the caulk. There are a lot of beam profiles for log cabins designed to avoid both (see some samples in the figure), but there are no methods yet to put a log cabin without reinforcing it with pins (through dowel pins).

How the installation of a log house in a paw from a bar is carried out, shown in the following. rice. on the example of a bar 150 mm. Marking for other sizes (top left) is carried out similarly: top - square; on the side - a bevel at half the thickness. The tongue-and-groove junctions should alternate mirror-like from crown to crown, bottom left. Hardwood dowels should enter the lower beam at 1/3 of its height; based on this, the drilling depth limiter 5 is set on the right in fig. Plus an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking, don't forget! The diameter of the dowels is 30-40 mm; the diameter of the holes for them is 1.5-2 mm smaller. It is better to hammer pins with a snow leopard, so much less expensive oak or beech round timber will go to waste. From the edge of any opening to the nearest dowel must be at least 120 cm.

Beams for a log house imitating a log

Sometimes, to imitate (however, not very convincing even for a non-specialist) a log cabin for a log house, a 3-edged edged beam or a lamella of the same profile is used. It's so popular that 3-sided timber is sold under the clever name D-log. D-logs are often sold with ready-made tenons and grooves for butt joint (in a corner) or in a cloud. When buying these, keep in mind that they are “mirror-like” and go on sale as “round-flat” and “flat-round”, see fig. on right. From those and others, opposite walls are assembled in pairs (if the bars are of the same length) or adjacent crowns adjacent in height, if the length of the bars is different.

Openings in a log house

A log house without windows and doors was placed only in the old days as a cruel punishment for dangerous criminals, rebels and those objectionable to the authorities. Given a choice, many convicts preferred the death penalty by beheading or by hanging rather than being cut down. So anyone will have to make openings for windows and doors in a log house.

An opening in a log house is much easier to make than in any other wall: it is simply cut out, see fig.:

It is necessary to fulfill only 3 conditions: at least 1.5 logs or at least 2.5 beams must remain at the top and bottom of the opening; the opening cuts into the upper and lower logs / beams at half their height, and from the edges of the opening to the adjacent, corner, partition or the nearest dowel must be at least 1.2 m. logs; in all respects it would be better to make them from ordinary edged boards. So the work - to put up a log house with your own hands - does not consist of difficulties alone.

The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath

Organization of the workplace for the assembly of walls

In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on its two sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on pads of boards.

Next to the stack equip workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the beam using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low linings in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber with a chain saw.

The cut beam is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on the upper crown of the log house. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the timber safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar by a team of four people. You can work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is constructed.

Three-tier scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1 — Rack extreme; 2 - l-shaped rack of the scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — Rack central; 5 - cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on g - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with the help of bosses, pos.6.

At the stage of erection of the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the construction of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from ladders - do not forget about it.

Marking bars for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, they draw a scheme for assembling the walls of the house, on which they indicate: serial number crown, type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and With- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- an inner wall made of timber - a partition; 1 - joints of beams.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of bars from 3 to 6 in length. m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam standard length 6 meters and extensions, 3 meters long. On one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.

To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are performed by making vertical cuts “to the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root spike (for more details, see below).

How to correctly and quickly mark spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of timber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is applied to the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It is more convenient, faster to mark and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part to be marked. I put a template on the beam and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored parts of the walls.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see the wall assembly diagram above).

Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the timber of the longitudinal walls. 4 - a groove for a root spike; 5 - a groove for a thorn inner wall; 6 - sample; 7 - dobor bar.

The picture above shows the template. for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall layout diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos. 5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places templates.

The same templates are used to mark the details of the extensions. To do this, on patterns at points b and with through holes are drilled, and at points a and d incisions have been made.

To mark the extension, the template is applied to the timber and points are pricked through the holes and cuts on the surface of the workpiece.

Remember this technique with the device holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed "inch" boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

And now let's consider how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection “to the floor of the tree”. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatch) cut out with a chainsaw.

How to mark details with spikes? Obviously, the tongue and groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a detail with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with interventional insulation.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.

How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths

Specifications (TU) for the manufacture of timber allow deviation of the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate the standard dimensions of the timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each bar, in a batch of timber brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble even walls if the timber is different in width and length?

b- the minimum width of the beam; delta b- the difference between narrow and wide beams.

Obviously, from a beam of different widths, only one surface of the wall can be made even - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all the bars in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then inside the house, wide bars will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment on the outer edge leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the bars (see figure).

If the bars in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The wall outside is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the beam, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. Corner connections bars are more dense, "warm".

How and with what to connect the crowns of the log house

Each log crown is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. Nagels are located at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times the height of the beam.

cm., pos. one.

Dowels made of round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), they simply hammer into the bars of the crowns with a hammer, an option a on the image.

The upper ends of the dowels of any material must be deepened into the beam by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the beam dries and the log shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the beam and raise the upper crown. A large gap is formed between the crowns.

For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged dowels from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the beams of the crowns from moving during the shrinkage of the log house, even if the dowel is deepened into the beam. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter driven steel dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel pins with a diameter of 10 or more millimeters, as well as wooden dowels inserted into pre-drilled holes in the beam. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the log house increases.

Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm it is convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made from hardwoods. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from a regular "inch" board dowels of square section 25x25 mm. Chamfers are removed from one end of the workpiece. Such pins are hammered into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood are crushed during nailing, the wood is compacted, providing a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to drill holes in a beam for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free from chips.

For drilling holes in timber, deep enough and large diameter, usually use a low-speed electric drill (drill). The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Considering great depth drilling, it is better to choose a drill with a margin of power.

To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with an emphasis, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The emphasis, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole of chips, grinds and then easily gets out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the interventional insulation. But usually here a problem arises - the interventional gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the gasket material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two stages. First, the beam is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and interventional insulation is laid.

In places of drilling cut the lining with a sharp knife. Then, the removed beam is reinstalled in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with dowels.

Drilling holes in a beam laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a flat wall from a curved beam

In the beam brought to the construction site, part of the beams may turn out to be curved. The beam may have curvature in one plane, or twist with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross section.

If possible, then it is better not to use curved bars for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has a curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam in the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten out under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten out, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid into the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

A curved beam is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a straight beam. After laying the interventional insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and, unbending, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

It does not take much effort to unbend the beam. To facilitate the work will help the lever and bracket

Mezhventsovy gasket - insulation, sealant

For and cold, a gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, moss was used for this or linen tow. Currently, special gasket materials based on flax or flax jute are commercially available. The material is sold as a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should stand 1-2 from the outer edge of the beam. cm. otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and offer to caulk the joints after shrinking the log house, adding an additional amount of material to the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a lower consumption of gasket material.

The work of caulking joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the seal thicker, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need for caulking horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of the log house

In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• Height of corners and walls.
• The horizontality of the crowns and the upper faces of the timber.
• The straightness of the walls.
• The quality of laying interventional insulation.

For control of the verticality of the corners apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 — bottom trim; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - plinth.

On each side of the crown, at the same distance from the corner edge, draw a vertical line.

With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked by a plumb line.

If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontal rims and top faces the timber is checked for level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the beam in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the laying of interventional insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.

a - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. in - scheme for cutting timber, where c - the remainder of the cutting. G - a variant of the opening device in the log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos.7. d - an option with the installation of decks in the opening, pos.6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in a draft version, only preparation is made to create an opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after shrinkage of the log house.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Bars must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall with a log house, pos.7 in the figure. At least two such bars are installed in the doorway.

In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “take away” inward or outward. To prevent this the timber in the piers is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another variant - d» in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (pigtails) are installed in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The spike of the wall beam enters the groove. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed from displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (pigtails) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical pigtail with a rail - a spike, enters the groove of the wall beam; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and the device of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (pigtail) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the bars of the wall from displacement.

The length of the deck (pigtail) or rail should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for houses, baths in your city

How to install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in the draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting the opening under right size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.

Correct installation windows in a timber wall. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — mezhventsovy heater; 8 - shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 — window frames; 10 - wall beam (wall); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then circular saw spikes are cut out at the ends of the bars of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos.10, a deck is placed with a groove, pos.11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails hammered at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A window box is inserted into the opening thus prepared, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos.8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

The compensation gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Similarly, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.

After the assembly of the first floor of the house is completed, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) ceiling.

Can be a constructive element. And they can perform an independent function.

The next page describes the construction of a sloping roof of a house made of timber, where the beams of the floor of the floor simultaneously serve as an element power frame mansard roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes in some detail and shows the technology for installing a log house from a construction beam.