Laying, Natural Lynoleum Linoleum Foro Marmoleum

Requirements for the room

Before laying a natural linoleum, the room temperature should be stable for 48 hours at least. The room temperature in the room should not be descended below 17 ° C. The base temperature should exceed 14 ° C, and relative humidity should not exceed 75%.

Preliminary preparation of natural linoleum to laying

Before laying, the marmoleum rolls should acclimatize indoors within 24 hours, while it is necessary to give rolls a vertical position.
The labels on the prepared rolls should be easily accessible to read, so that it is possible to control the article, color, numbers of rolls and batch. If there are several rolls of the same color in the room, you must make sure that all these rolls from one batch (to avoid varnotone).

Requirements for the foundation:

Flooring natural linoleum begins with the preparation of the foundation. The base for flooring marmoleum should be:

Smooth and monolithic (without lumps, snaps, spots, drops and joints), otherwise all the irregularities of the base will be shown on the surface of the marmoleum after laying. And during operation in uneven places, Marmoleum will be climbing;

The base should be dry (the permissible ground humidity is not more than 2%, measured by the carbide method);

Durable (not lower than 300 kg / cm2);

The base should be clean (without traces of dirt, oils, paints or fat).

Glue for laying natural linoleum

For flooring of natural linoleum, it is recommended to use exclusively water adverium adhesives, specially designed for laying the natural linoleum of marmoleum, namely - Forbo 418 glue.
It is characterized by an exceptionally high adhesive force (at least 3 N / mm2), as well as a high initial adhesive force. Moreover, this glue has, the so-called "moisture retention force". This property is one of the main properties, for adhesives intended for natural linoleum. The fact is that, being more wet, 418 glue develops such adhesive strength, which will either keep the coating from the shrinkage at all, or radically reduce the shrinkage of the coating.
It is not recommended for laying natural linoleum to use two-component polyurethane adhesives, since they do not create an initial adhesive force. This means that you will not be able to completely remove bubbles from the marmole during the glue polymerization period. After the polyurethane glue will react, remove the remaining bubbles under the coating will not be possible.

Preparation of natural linoleum (cutting under the room)

Before the flooring rolls of marmoleum must be rewinded by the front side inside - this will significantly reduce the magnitude of the shrinkage!

It is necessary to unwind a roll along the long wall of the room, cut off, leaving the reserve of 10 cm per each of the sides;

With the help of a trimmer, cut the edge of the leaf of the linoleum on both sides, trimming inside to prevent "PIKING";

Move the sheet of marmoleum to the wall as tight as possible, ensuring that the reserve is 10 cm is evenly distributed on both sides;

Set the length of the long layer of 10 mm larger than the largest distance between the wall and the cover sheet;

Holding a long marking, if possible, perpendicular to the coating, apply the wall circuit using the needle as a markup;

Now we cut off the material on the resulting label using the hook blade, cutting into the inside;

Put the coating tightly to the wall - the configuration of the wall and the contour of the coating must match;

Based on the pencil line (edge), using the free edge of the marmole leaf as a ruler (opposite from the wall);

Based on the marmole leaf, apply a label with a pencil (short transverse line), which will fix the position of the sheet;

Slide the marmoleum sheet along the drawn line edge, until the reserve of 10 cm does not fall freely on the base;

Set a long marking (between the roller stop and needle) somewhat less than the distance (shift) between the tags on the coating and on the basis - to compensate for the shrinkage;

Using the markings set by this way, apply the wall circuit on the coating, after which remove the excess via the resulting circuit using the hook blade, trimming the inside;

Repeat the process described above for the opposite side;
Now let's sweep or spend the base, and put the prepared marmoleum sheet in your place;

If in the room it is necessary to put two sheets of natural linoleum or more, each next sheet is laid in the same way, after which it suits first along the long side, and then from the ends;

In order to ensure accurate marking of the seams, it is preliminarily to place the sheets of the Vansel: by 1.5-2 cm.

How to apply glue for marmolema?

After opening the can, glue should be mixed thoroughly and apply to the base using a TCV / B1 tootham. The consumption of glue, when gluing a natural linoleum, is about 450 g per 1 kV. m.
Circular movements, gently and evenly apply glue to the entire surface of the base. Use, with just one side of the spatula, the other should remain clean. Over glue must be collected by a spatula back to the jar and close it.
After applying glue on the base, there is no need to withstand the "drossing time", since the base absorbs moisture, and the natural linoleum itself is a moisturefrost coating.

Gluing Natural Linoleum Marmoleum

After you cut the marmoleum on the canvas in accordance with the room, it can be glued.
After holding the short sides of the sheets, the prepared marmoleum cannons simultaneously wrap up the base up, freeing 1 half the base area for glue.
The prepared sheets cannot be twisted into the roll, as this will lead to the deformation of the coating and the occurrence of bubbles.

Based on, along the wrapped edge, carry out the pencil border of the glue;

Using the corresponding toothed spatula (TKV / B1), apply glue to the base, strictly observing the previously marked glue boundary;

Place the first part of the marmole for glue and ride;

After one side of the linoleum strip was laid on the adhesive layer and told, it is necessary to wrap the remaining non-glued edge of the marmoleum and gently apply glue to the base, observing the boundary. If a re-applying glue occurs on the same place, this will appear through the coating in the form of a span;

Coating Return the roll across the shortest way to drive the air under the coating only after that, roll along the roll.

After 15 minutes, it is necessary to re-roll the natural linoleum in order to achieve the final and reliable adhesion of the linoleum and the foundation;

After laying all the policies of the natural linoleum, it is necessary to cut the seams. Using a short commercially, set the width of the seam.

When working with Marmoleumom Forbo, you can:

for premises, where there is no danger of the appearance of a significant amount of water on the coating, leave a dense seam, abandoning welding, - the transverse expansion of the linoleum makes such a seam extremely dense and reliably protects it from the penetration of a minor amount of water;
for premises, where the likelihood of water appearance on the coating is very significant, it is necessary to slaughter the seams, for this it is necessary:

To start the foot of the Combizmekimetchik under the pre-left "Taste", resist the heel into the edge of the glued sheet of coating and, conducting a combination of the coating edge, mark the exact contours of the edge of the edge of the marma oleum;

Crop the edge by label using a hook blade, all also cut into inside;

To settle the cropped edge of the coating in the glue, clinging carefully;

Remove the glue into the coating with a clean wet vet;

Wash the tool from glue with cold water.

Features of gluing natural linoleum
After you apply glue, you can neatly lay marmoleum. Natural linoleum laid on the glue must be carefully lied with the help of a board, covered with a carpet carpet, air from under linoleum is extruded along the shortest path - in the transverse direction.
After that, it is strongly recommended to roll the entire surface of the marmolem with heavy rolling rollers, weighing 50-70 kg. First, roll the coating in the transverse direction, removing air from-under the coating, and then in the longitudinal direction. Especially carefully should be done in the coating in the seams.

General recommendations for laying natural linoleum
If there are several rolls of one article in the room, you should strive to lay rolls in a sequence with an increase in roll numbers.
The sheets of natural linoleum should be laid in one direction; On the reverse side of the marmoleum applied arrows with the indication of this direction.
Due to the properties of the natural linoleum, when laying into a wet adhesive layer - to give a shrinkage in the longitudinal direction (1mm / 1 mm), it is necessary to rewind the rolls to the face with the front side - this will significantly reduce the shrinkage value.
Due to the properties of natural linoleum, when laying into a wet glue layer, it is somewhat expanded in the transverse direction, it is necessary to cut the marmoleum, slightly tilting the knife so that the linoleum sheets laid next to the top edges come into contact with sharp tops. With the expansion of natural linoleum, sharp edges come into contact and even somewhat crushed, forming a dense seam. This will prevent the squeezing of linoleum in the seams area - the so-called "PIKING", which would have a place if linoleum sheets rested each other throughout the thickness of the coating.

Welding of seams (joints) of natural linoleum

To ensure complete waterproof of the natural flooring, it is necessary to weld the sheets of marmoleum using a special welding cord intended for natural linoleum. We note that with the help of a welding cord of a contrast color on the marmole coating, you can create various designs.
Works on the welding of natural linoleum must be carried out after the polymerization of glue, it is best the next day or a few hours after the flooring. If you proceed to welding immediately after laying the coating, the glue boiling under the influence of hot air, and steam emissions from the seam will not allow reliably to fract the junctions of the marmoleum.
Unlike the welding of PVC coatings, the term "soldering" will be more correctly applied to the natural linoleum, since the hot air is not able to melt the coating made on the basis of wood flour.
With the "welding" of the natural linoleum, the cord consisting of a low-melting polymer, melting, penetrates into the pores of the marmoleum and, frozen, seals seam.
For high-quality "welding" of natural linoleum, it is necessary to use only a professional tool: a hairdryer with a stepped air temperature adjustment, special knives and fixtures.

Make a "groove" under the seam with a cutting knife - Grovers;

The depth of the "grooves" should be almost the entire depth of the marmoleum, to the jut base, which cannot be damaged;

Then it is necessary to carefully vacuuming the seam area;

Set the temperature of the hair dryer about 350 ° C, to wear a cast nozzle with a diameter of 5 mm and turn on the hair dryer;

Wait until the nozzle is warmed up to the desired temperature;

We take a segment of the welding cord with a length of a little more than half of the seam and insert it into a nozzle, immediately press the end of the cord into the groove of the seam and, holding in this position about a second, we begin to move the hair dryer along the seam (with the same, small, speed speed);

The heel of the nozzle during the movement should always be parallel to the surface;

It is necessary to choose the correct movement speed of the hair dryer, making sure that the cord is really melted, binding to the coating material; With the right welding process on the sides of the seam, two lanes of tiny beads from the welding cord material are formed;

Immediately after the end of the welding, while the cord is hot, using a sick-like knife and a nozzle for pre-trimming the cord, remove the excess cord;

Repeat the welding, ranging from the opposite wall, and start the neck cord into 20 cm on the pre-brewed and cropped cord;

After the cord temperature comes with the coating temperature, it is necessary to completely remove the excess cord, while the cruciform knife must be held the maximum parallel to the floor surface.
If you cut the filtered cord in one pass, when the cord is still hot, then as a result, after cooling the cord, the groove will remain - the cord during cooling gives shrinkage. Such carelessness can lead to a significant deterioration in the appearance of the laid coverage, since dirt and dust will be collected in the grooves.

When creating designs in the form of friezes ("framework") you need to cut strips Natural linoleum is only along the roll, but not across. Natural linoleum, being rolled into a roll, has undergone a long-term effect of significant bending forces and is in a stress state. Cutting the strip across the roll, it is impossible to compensate for this tension of the adhesive force (due to the small strip width), as a result of the coating strips, will take a characteristic form - "Gornylem". The smaller the strip width, the more noticeable there will be such an effect. Most often, such a "gorny" cannot be corrected by pressing with decaying in such areas of heavy items.
Therefore, when creating friezes, you need to follow the following rules:
The bands are always stacked in one direction, in accordance with the arrow setting the direction;
Strips of marmoleum, of which form a frieze, jerk only diagonally, at an angle of 45O, - this will allow evenly distributing the voltage and prevent breaks and / or "picing" in the locations of the dock.

Deflection of the drying chamber

Under the term "deflection of the drying chamber", the factor is associated with the production technology of natural linoleum, namely, the preservation on a sheet of linoleum is a stable transverse "wave" of 10-12 cm wide from the crossbar used to tension a natural linoleum leaf when aging marmoleum in the drying chamber.
As a rule, it is located in the middle of the roll - at a distance of 15-16 meters from the start of the roll. Unfortunately, due to the voltage in this area, the laying of the "deflection of the drying chamber" is conjugate with some difficulties. To reliably glue such a plot, there is often no reliable adhesive forces inherent in gluing linoleum adhesive. Therefore, if possible, it is recommended not to use this area if the size of the premises is allowed, the design of the pattern of coating and stock of linoleum.

In one of the previous materials, we have already considered the features of such a finishing material as Marmoleum and clarified all its advantages and disadvantages. Today we would like to introduce the reader with the laying procedure of the presented floor covering and reveal the nuances of the work.

Preparation for work

As mentioned earlier, the marmoleum in its visual characteristics is identical to the usual linoleum, but unlike it is produced not only in the form of rolls, but also manufactured in the form of tiles (according to PVC type) or panels with a lock connection (analog of laminate). In view of this, marmoleum laying is somewhat different depending on the material used.

The process of preparing the foundation

Depends on the basic basis material. So, if you plan to lay the marmoleum on the wooden surface, then first should be verified in the mechanical strength of the base (no damaged flooring, cracks, drops are not allowed). And after, to produce the final alignment of the floor, by using it with OSB panels or plywood sheets.

When it is planned to lay marching marmoleum to the concrete floor, then it should be verified in the absence of chosel, cracks, chips and, if necessary, align the base with the help of a cement-sand solution or self-leveling mixture.

In addition to the procedure for preparing the base at the initial stage, it is advisable to make marking and cutting material. For which panels or tiles must be decomposed in the place of the intended mounting and mark the control points.

Performing these operations must be taken into account certain features:

Marmoleum refers to the group of natural finishing materials, in view of which has the ability to change linear dimensions when temperatures change. That is, when it is laying, it is necessary to provide compensation gaps between the material and the wall (10 - 15 mm), which will subsequently block the finishing plinth.

Mechanical processing of marmoleum (cutting) is associated with certain difficulties, in view of which, in the process of work, it is advisable to minimize the amount of cuts and have them in visually hidden places.

Marmoleum laying technology

Depending on the type of material used (rolls, tiles or panels) varies and the method of laying material.

Rolled marmoleum is stacked by analogy with a linoleum, however, in contrast to a synthetic analogue, marmoleum is not allowed to turn more than 1 time to roll, and it is permissible to produce only the front part. This is connected with such a circumstance with the fragility of the finish, in particular its end zones. That is, the material simply rolled out in the room and its trimming is performed around the perimeter, after which the stagnant marmoleum is pressed to the floor with the help of plinths and decorative springs.

Marmoleum in the form of tiles (50x50cm, 30x30cm) can fit in two methods: with the selection of the pattern and without that. Moreover, in the first case, the installation of the finishing material should be started from the middle of the room, gradually moving to its edges. Whereas in the second version (for the premises of the standard form), start laying the best from the wall, with the smallest dimensions.

The algorithm of work algorithm implies the following actions:

• At the place of laying of the first row (in the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall), the base rail - the lighthouse (thickness 10 - 15 mm) is exhibited;
• Specialized adhesive composition is applied (in the form of a snake) on the wrong side of the finishing material;
• The tile is associated with the beacon-beacon and simultaneously pressed to the base basis;
• Identically stacked all the tiles of the first row, after which the whole process is repeated again (until the complete completion of the work);
• After drying the adhesive composition, the semisal voids can be filled with a special grout of the corresponding color shade.

Panel marmoleum is stacked by analogy with standard laminate. However, in contrast to the specified material, the docking of the marmole panels is more complicated, which is associated with its flexibility and fragility. Therefore, to connect adjacent elements under a strictly defined angle, due to which the highest quality engagement of the flooring is provided.

To ensure a predetermined angle of inclination, it is best to use wooden patterns with oblique drink (the angle of the inclination of which will allow you to place the marmoleum panels at the most optimal angle during the installation).

Such a snap is put under the free edge edge and fixed in the groove of the previous row. Well, in order for the adjacent panel to be closed - the bar is simply removed and the marmoleum occupies the right position.

In order for the installation of natural finishes for the floor did not cause special difficulties, in the process of performing work, it is advisable to adhere to some recommendations:

• Cooking marmoleum (for high-quality docking) must be performed through special spacers and using rubber hammers.
• For the cutting of marmoleum, it is best to use the metal hacksaw or an electrolovka with an appropriate saw (small tooth, the opposite direction).
• Purchase marmoleum follows only in specialized shopping centers that guarantee the originality of the goods.
• In order to qualitatively adjust the material from the basic grounds, it is necessary to remove all dust and construction trash in advance with the vacuum cleaner.

Not so long ago, a new floor finishing material appeared - marmoleum. What is it? In essence, this natural linoleum, only much better quality. The main difference is that this material consists of natural and environmentally friendly components. Make it from resin needles, jute, cork tree, using flaxseed oil and natural dyes. This is undoubtedly a huge plus of this product. But before making a decision: apply marmoleum In the process of construction and repair with their own hands or not, you need to weigh everything in and against.

2. Advantages of marmoleum coverage.

High strength of this material. It is able to withstand the load equal to 160 kg per 1M 2. This means that even very heavy furniture does not pushing it to dents.

The solvent and various other chemical solutions do not bring any harm to the marmoleum.

Spilled liquids of various origin do not leave traces and are easily removed from the surface marmoleum.

This material is crossed on all its depths, which ensures the preservation of the appearance even with the gradual erasure.

Coating marmoleum It has antibacterial properties due to the presence in its composition of flaxseed oil.

Does not cause allergies.

It does not burn and hardly burn it, with the exception of ultra-high temperatures.

Marmoleum refers to fairly good noise insulators.

Ecological purity of marmoleum.

Consists of natural components.

3. Disadvantages of the coating marmoleum

One of the main disadvantages of Marmoleum is its fragility, especially at the edges.

Sufficient material. Again, it concerns more roll type.

By the way, if you use such a marmoleum, then you need to contact the specialists, because it will be problematic to make it problematic. Since there will be special equipment for this.

When circumcised, uneven and ugly edges are obtained. But if, trim only those places that will be closed by plinths, then there is no tragedy.

Over time, it can be deformed due to breaking. Therefore, when buying, be sure to check the integrity of the packaging and the expiration date of the product!

At first of the coating marmoleum Eases unpleasant odor. However, it disappears after a while.

Such a floor will not be cheap pleasure.

Now let's talk about how to produce marmoleum laying do it yourself. There is nothing complicated in this process. Naturally, it only appears marmoleum Tile (there are dimensions of 30 × 30 or 50 × 50 cm) or panel type (size of 90 × 30 cm). By the way, the technology itself is very similar to the laying of cork gender, the methods of laying which we told.

Stages styling Marmoleum:

1. To begin with, as always, in the process of laying outdoor coverage with your own hands, you need to prepare its foundation. If the old floor is smooth, without depression and chosel, then natural linoleum can be laid immediately without prior preparation. The main thing is that the surface is clean. If there are some irregularities and the floor wooden, then it is usually aligned by the clashing of plywood, an OSB or something like that. If the floor is concrete, then you can pour a self-leveling screed. The most important thing is to ensure that the surface is smooth, in order to avoid damage to the material in the future.

2. Since the coating marmoleum It has a tendency to deformation due to temperature drops, namely it becomes longer when it is increased, and when decreasing, take its shape again, it is necessary to leave the so-called temperature gap throughout the perimeter of the room. As a rule, complete for this should be special spacers. This gap then closes the plinth.

Fig.1 Spacers when laying marmoleum

3. Marmoleum laying Starting from the center if some pattern is provided. If not, laid from any angle in order.

4. Connection plates natural linoleum happens in a special lock. Since this is done at a certain angle, it will be convenient for the stop to be used in the work beveled bars, which are removed immediately after docking the plates.

Fig.2 Barbed by Marmoleum

Fig.3 Barlok.

5. If you need to knock on the stoves marmoleum, do it through any spacer, and not directly by material. As a shock tool, use a rubber hammer or a painting.

Fig.4 Skeleton the slab through the spacer

6. Marmoleum trim is made by an electric bison or saw with a small tooth.

Fig.5 Cut the stove

5. Laying

In general, as you can see, there is nothing complicated in the process. styling Marmoleum do it yourself. The main thing to align the floor and work gently with the material. If you have questions, write in the comments. Good luck to you construction and repair do it yourself!

Marmoleum is a rolled outdoor coating made from environmentally friendly raw materials. The prototype of the material is the washed canvas, which appeared in the 16th century. Industrial production of marmoleum began in 1864 in England.

What it is - structure and modern production

Marmoleum is distinguished by high wear resistance, durability and service life of more than 25 years

The basic value of marmoleum as a material is environmental purity and safety, since the coating includes only natural components, without synthetic impurities. The formulation of the material consists of a resin of coniferous trees, flax oils, wood raw materials, crushed plugs, chalk and lime.

For staining, only natural pigments that do not excrete harmful substances are used. The structure of marmoleum is a homogeneous coating. That is, the material has one holistic layer with a pattern applied throughout the thickness of the product.

From the technological side, marmoleum is a modernized version of the natural linoleum. Initially, linseed oil and zhivitsa were used to produce linoleum from plant and natural components.

As technology enhanced, substitutes for these components obtained from special breeds of tropical crops were found and introduced. This allowed not only to reduce the mass production of material, but also increase its operational qualities.

Additionally, an extruded layer of a natural plug was added to the structure, which improves the strength and stability of the coating on the surface. The manufacturing process also has undergone some changes - to obtain the finished product, the method of dry hot presses began to be applied.

As a result, an improved natural linoleum received a trade name for Marmoleum, which was successfully sold in construction stores.

Characteristics, classification and release form

Natural cladding in rolls and tiles

Technically, the flooring of marmoleum has higher characteristics than the usual polyvinyl chloride linoleum. The coating is able to withstand up to 160 kg per 1 cm2 surface, without visible traces of deformation.

The specific weight of 1m2 of the material is 2.5-3.5 kg with a total coating thickness of 2-4 mm. The average service life of the material under the compliance with the installation technology and general rules of operation is at least 30 years.

Taking into account the technical characteristics, marmoleum is classified into the following classes:

1. 21-23 - coating intended for use under normal living conditions. It has a small thickness (up to 2 mm) and low cost. It is recommended to put in urban apartments and private houses, as it has increased resistance to variable loads.
2. 31-32 - Marmoleum, designed for styling in industrial premises and in small industries. It has a thicker top layer (up to 2.5 mm). Resistant to static load, which makes it possible to use indoors with a large number of heavy furniture and machines.
3. 41-43 - coating intended for use in public spaces with high patency and continuous walking load. Total coating thickness from 3-4 mm. The main area of \u200b\u200bapplication - airports, train stations, hospitals.

It is important to understand that the marmoleum class indicates not so much on the characteristics of the coating, but on the scope of application and the presence of certain technical qualities. That is, it does not make sense to buy thicker or durable styling material in the apartment.

In living conditions, the floor surface is subject to a perfect other load than in industrial or public premises. Marmoleum 21-23 grade 2 mm thick is enough to ensure trouble-free operation in the course of the stated service life.

In the form of release, marmoleum is divided into the following types:

• 2 m wide roll;
• tile 30 × 30 and 50 × 50 cm;
• panel 90 × 30 cm.

Rolled marmoleum, unlike PVC Linoleum, is not recommended to acquire if the coating is planned with their own hands. The material rolled into the roll has a fairly big weight, which will cause difficulties with delivery to the venue. During transportation, accuracy should be observed, since the fragile material is broken and can crack.

Marmoleum in the form of tiles and panels are deprived of data minuses. The panels have a sufficiently convenient lock system, which allows laying on their own, without much experience with the material. Photos of the main types of marmoleum can be seen above.

Pros and cons of operation

Marmoleum is one of the few flooring coatings combining high performance characteristics and a lot of positive qualities. In fact, this is due to the high popularity of this coverage in its price segment.

Naturalness is one of the main advantages of this material.

Among the advantages of marmoleum can be distinguished by the following:

• environmentally friendly - coverage is absolutely safe for human health and domestic animals. The coating can be laid in the residential room where allergy and small children live;
• hygienicity - marmoleum floor is fairly easily cleaned by means of a wet cleaning without the use of a large amount of detergent. After cleaning, cleanliness is preserved for a long time due to the bactericidal properties of the coating;
• resistance - the material does not fade, does not absorb moisture during wetting, does not go by waves, it does not breed. Has high local stability to damage and other negative factors;
• insulation - When laying, it does not require the use of heat-insulating floor insulation, since the material has a low thermal conductivity. Does not accumulate static electricity, not a fuel, does not distinguish harmful substances;
• cost - the total cost of laying the coating, even taking into account the value of the material, is somewhat lower than when laminate flooring or parquet board;
• diversity - Marmoleum has high decorative qualities. Large manufacturers produce a coating of 100 main colors, 30-50 texture solutions and 2000 shades.

Among the minuses of marmoleum should be noted its fragility, especially in the corners and on the edges of the roll. With incorrect laying technology, the risk of damage to the material is high, as a result of which this section will have to trim, since it will be strongly noticeable cracks on the lines of the slick.

In the course of operation, a small spreading of the material on the floor surface and solidification in the most passable sections of the floor is possible. It is well noticeable for poorly sealed seams, which over time become more dense.

When working with roll marmoleum, it is desirable to have experience in laying, as the material does not cut the material, and get the perfectly smooth edge along the cut line is quite problematic. That is why, most of the major outlets offer an additional styling service, since, when non-compliance with the technology, the warranty for flooring is removed.

Instructions for laying on the base

General requirements for laying marmoleum are similar to other types of flooring. The carrier base for laying should be monolithic, durable, dry. Maximum deviation of the consonant GOST - no more than 2 mm on 2 m surfaces.

Facing laying scheme in tiles from the center of the room

The strength of the carrier base is determined on the basis of the planned loads. In residential premises, warehouses and small production - this is not more than 300kg / cm2.

Depending on the material used, the base can be divided into three groups: a concrete surface, a cement-sand or gypsum thin layer screed, base of sheet materials.

Virtually any concrete surface requires alignment by means of a cement-sand screed or filling of the leveling mass. In rare cases, when the ceiling concrete plate corresponds to the requirements voiced above, sufficiently superficial repairs.

To eliminate small irregularities and chosel, you should use a dispersion putty. Alignment by laying sheet materials (chipboard, GVL) is more suitable for wooden bases and floors with design on lags.

Purchased material should be delivered 24 hours before starting the laying. If the marmoleum was transported at temperatures below 10 C, then the unpacking should be carried out at least after 24 hours.

Tiles can be laid from a far corner indoor

Laying of modular marmoleum with their own hands is performed in the following sequence:

1. The laying scheme on the surface is selected based on the designer solution. On the diagram you need to designate the axial line from which laying will begin. For a symmetric pattern, it is possible to divide the room in half with the center in the middle.
2. Next, it will be necessary to carefully examine the instructions for the purchased glue mass. The glue is applied to the back surface of the module using a toothed spatula. In the process of applying, it is important to monitor the drying time of the adhesive mass. If the glue is dry and lost its adhesive qualities, then it must be completely removed from the surface of the element.
3. When laying, each marmole tile is rolled by a smooth roller weighing 50-75 kg. This tool can be rented in stores specializing in the sale of linoleum.
4. Laying modules starts from the central axial line, as shown in the figure above. The tile module is placed without gaps and disintegration relative to previous elements.
5. The installation process continues until the moment in each of the rows remains according to the last element requiring trimming. For trimming tiles, you will need to mark the markup on its face. Next, over the cut line, cut through the tile with a knife with a direct blade. The final cut is carried out with a knife with a hook blade.

Before commissioning, the surface of the floor should be carefully cleaned from glue residues, which could be squeezed out of the seams between the modules. To do this, you can carry out wet cleaning with the dumping of a small amount of detergent approved by the manufacturer.

As a daily care, it is enough to carry out dry cleaning with a special mop with a microfiber nozzle. Continuous use of detergents is not required.

The modular marmoleum with the click lock system is mounted in a similar way with the only difference that the laying of the panels can be started from a long corner of the room. For trimming element near the wall, you can use an electrolovka or wood-hacksaw.

When laying the first row, the technological gap of 15-30 mm between tiles and a wall should be observed. The clearance is needed in order to the process of operation the facing does not cord.

For laying the second and subsequent rows, it is most convenient to assemble a number of solid web, after which it is gently omitted to the surface of the floor until the locking connection is completely snapped. The video above shows a detailed instruction on laying a modular marmoleum.

Cost, manufacturers and laying costs

Forbo Swiss Company Products

The world leader with a share of 65% for the production of Marmoleum is the Swiss company Forbo. This company belongs to the Marmoleum trademark, which is used as the name of their main lineup of natural linoleum.

Forbo Marmoleum is distinguished by high resistance to mechanical loads, low abrasability, low residual deformation, good elasticity, presence of bactericidal and anti-slip properties.

In many ways, the Forbo concern Natural linoleum was widely distributed worldwide, including Russia, where their official representation is present.

The company's line is present both facing in rolls and a coating in the form of a natural tile with a special castle system. With all the range of products, you can find on the company's official website. The cost of a different type of marmoleum can be seen in the table above.