Possible problems when applying a varnish and ways to eliminate them. Causes of typical errors when applying a varnish and possible ways to eliminate LOBADUR (Loba, Lobadur) Wood lacquered by car after painting

→ White spots

Remove white spots on furniture from alcohol, acetone, iron, water can be different ways. Polishing, lacquer regeneration, full of lacquer coating. Our workshop removes white spots both with complete and partial restoration.

White spots are destroyed varnish. Removed by removing damage with subsequent polishing. For various reasons, the consequence of the destruction of the film or her delamination from the surface of the tree. Remove white spots is much more complicated than preventing their appearance.

White spots from alcohol

Alcohol-containing liquids leave white spots due to the chemical activity of the solution. Alcohol molecules react with wrapal trim molecules, destroy it, varnish transparency. Not deep destruction of modern varnish can be tried to eliminate polishing method. For this, thin abrasive paste remove damage to the polishing preserved in immunity. Varnish will be thinner, but the stains will not.

Prevention measures: cover the worktop of expensive furniture carved in the form of organic glass.

Stains from acetone

The mechanism of appearance of spots from acetone is the one as in the previous case, but acetone is more active, the destruction occurs deeper, faster. Correction of the defect with a complete replacement of the trim of lacquer.

Stains from iron, hot, direct sunlight

White spots leave cups with hot drinks. Very ugly marks in the form of crescents of circles. Calculation of the effects of hot jars, glasses, bottles.

When heated, the polymer, which is any modern lacquer, changes the density, therefore, change physical properties, namely, transparency. This happens on the depth of the finish. Elimination is a complete replacement in a restoration workshop of a professional restorer, using special equipment.

White spots from water

Appear on antique furniture decorated with shellac. Or modern furniture after applying expensive care products containing wax, dyes, natural resins (rosin, shellac). When interacting with moisture resin Beleet, the dye blews. If it becomes the remedy, it is removed with dry cloth. If the shellary finish has become unusable - not avoiding restoration.

Formless light spots arise on modern wooden furniture due to moisture in a layer of durable moisture resistant varnish. Water on the slots and scratches, which fell under it, does not evaporate for a long time, soaked in wood, provoking detachment. In places of damage, there is a distortion of color.

Currently, there are a large number of modern solid tools for covering wooden surfaces. Special varnishes for coating wood in conditions high humidity, temperature drops. Everything in these varnishes is wonderful, one bad - they are not suitable for antique furniture. Modern varnishes, give a tree external properties plastic. Only polytheus and oil-based varnishes are suitable for finishing the old furniture.

All alcohol politicians, for wood, which covered the furniture from the 18th century, up to the 60s of the 20th century, are destroyed under the influence of moisture and high temperatures. Even wet air, penetrating the crack, provokes damage in the form of white spots.

Polishing furniture Politura is a long and time-consuming process, requiring patience and skill. There was a separate profession - a polisher. Since polishing with shellac gentle, every six months, a polisher who polished all the furniture was invited to the rich houses with an expensive setting, which polished all the furniture, carefully cleaning, cleaned white raids. Over time, the Shellaka layer increased. Shellaic polish has golden brown color, with increasing thickness, the intensity of color increases. So the old furniture over time becomes more beautiful.

The diagnosis is as follows: Washed Lac. Lost transparency. Like org. Glass after exposure to chemical or abrasive. This could happen for several reasons.

Painting car This is a complex technological process in which the chance of the occurrence of defects is very large. Especially if painting is not professional Malyar. and without for coloring cars. In this article we will consider the most basic and most commondefects when painting a car.

If you are new, you do not have sufficient experience and practice, then the emergence of defects during painting increases significantly.
Defects appear OT of different factors, from such as: the inexperience of the master, not suitable conditions, proper use Material and etc .. The following is a list of major painting defects, their possible causes of appearance and recommendations are given to eliminate them.

In the hardest cases with clutch loss upper layer Paints are easily separated from the primer layer or old paint, or all the layers together are separated from the metal.

Basically, weak adhesion is limited by areas that are sensitive to exposure or shocks. This defect is usually detected immediately after painting when the masking tape is removed.

Bad clutch is the result of insufficient links between the paint film and the surface to which it is applied. This is usually due to insufficient cleaning of the surface and the poor quality preparation for painting, or the adhesion can be broken later by the impact of moisture or other fractures.

The main reasons for poor clutch are:

Poor quality, because of what contamination remains (wax, oil, water, rust, dust, etc.). These contaminants prevent the solid grip of the paint bed with a surface.
Insufficient smoothing of the primer layer by filler before painting.
Insufficient mixing of materials
The use of primer coatings that are not suitable or for metal or for paint.
Incorrect use of paint ("dry" spraying).
Use unsuitable for painting the surface.
Using inappropriate solvent
Too fast masking of freshly stained surface in two-color coatings.
Undoubted masking can damage the paint layer when removing the camouflage ribbon from the surface.
Too long exposure to high temperature in the progress of the heat drying of the car or excessively high drying temperature.

Remove the paint layer on the square, much larger area of \u200b\u200bthe damaged area, with the help of a grinding machine or sandblasting machine (if necessary to metal).

If the clutch loss is caused by disadvantages of masking, treat the damaged surface, and then paint it again.

The bubble consists in the formation of various magnitude and density on the surface of the paint layer of bubbles. The bubble is manifested both on the new and old layers, and mainly appears at the moment when high humidity is replaced by strong frosts.

The bubble cause moisture or air that fell under the paint layer. Water penetrates even through the most best coatings At the moment when the body is subjected to sharp drops of temperature. The moisture in the layer in the layer expands, and thus pressure is formed. It loosens the adhesion between the layers and thereby leads to the formation of bubbles.

The most common cause of the formation of bubbles is the inadequate cleaning of the surface and its preparation to painting, which is due to which the dirt remains between the filler and the metal or between the primer layer and the paint and varnish coating. Typical pollution is oil from air ducts, fat from touching the fingers, dust, dirt and salt. Therefore, make sure that the surface is clean, and clean it before painting.
Use inappropriate solvent.
Excessive thickness of the paint-layer and insufficient exposure time between layers. This can lead to a cluster of the solvent in the paint. Later, when evaporation of the solvent, bubbles are formed. Therefore, do not accelerate the drying of each paint layer with an unnatural path.
The inadequate thickness of the primer coating is paint and varnish.
The impact of dampness or humidity before painting, as well as the constant further effect of these factors.

In the case of a strong bubbling, remove the paint to the metal, then completely repaint the surface.

In the case of a smaller bubbling, clean the bubbling place and either apply only a thin layer of paint, or re-process the surface.

The paint film is blurred poorly, it does not cover the primer and metal. Usually this film has smooth surface, does not lag and not bubble.

Too thin paint layer.
Poor work surface preparation or use when smoothing too large-grained emery paper.
Defect during priming.
Poor fixing the primer on the surface.

If the paint layer is too thin, reduce the solvent content in the paint.

In most other cases, it is necessary to re-smoothing, then carefully prepare the surface (using where necessary, appropriate drugs) and apply a layer of paint of appropriate viscosity.

Little bubbles in a paint-layer, with closest consideration having the smallest holes on the vertices. This phenomenon is mainly observed at the boundaries of the areas with a thick coating.

Solvent bubbles are formed in a thick layer of paint, which, in turn, is formed for the following reasons:

Too much paint feed ().
Too much paint viscosity.
Too slow movement of the paint pistol (on a small surface is rarely applied than necessary, the number of paint).
Too large overlap of layers of paint when spraying.

Before smoothing and applying the finishing layer of paint, leave the painted surface to complete drying (the time of drying the oil paint strongly depends on the thickness of its layer).

Lumbout is manifested in the form of a milky-white "fog" on the painted surface. If the clouding is available on the paintwork, it may also be present on the primer. Note that clouding on the primer coating can be inconspicuous (as it is usually matte), but later it can develop into a bubble or clutch loss.

Lounge can occur if painting is produced at low temperature and high humidityand caused moisture that fell into the paint layer. In the process, spray painting occurs rapid evaporation of the solvent, leading to cooling space of painting. Moisture from the surrounding air is condensed in the fresh paint-and-and-white layer, which leads to the appearance of a milky-white "fog". Possible reasons This:

The use of a poor-quality (cheap) solvent.
The use of a quickly opicious solvent in low temperature and high humidity conditions. In such conditions, it is necessary to apply a special type of solvent. In addition, use the minimum amount of solvent, otherwise the process of drying the applied coating will slow down significantly.
Incorrectly installed painters of paint guns, improper painting technique or overpressure air.
Improper air circulation or its insufficient temperature in the workshop.
A solvent evaporates too quickly when the air jet direction on the paint layer is directed.
Draft in the workshop.

In case of easy cloudy, rain full paint drying and eliminate the defect with polishing.

Plust defective areas using a special solvent.

Spray the above-mentioned special solvent on defective sections. Upon proper conditions, this will lead to closet.

If none of the above methods gives the result, increase the temperature of the air in the workshop at least 5 ° and ensure the absence of drafts.

The microcrack defect is a large number of very small, non-interconnected cracks, which requires a magnifying glass. On the paint coating, microcracks are manifested in the form of dull places and the absence of a gloss. Silvering is a set of arbitrary cracks, often having the shape of three-spin stars. It resembles cracked dirt in dried ponds or on the banks of the rivers. These cracks are usually pretty deep and penetrate through the top layer. paint coatingand sometimes even through the primer / filler. Silvering is usually the result of the weakening of the paint and varnish film, such as microcracks or bubble.

Silvering occurs as a result of the weakening of the paintwork layer, occurring under the influence of environmental conditions. Modern high-quality paints, being applied accordingly, rarely subjected to cracking. The latter appears for the following reasons:

Too thick layer of paint coating. Application of too thick layers of paint or primer increases voltages and deformations, usually present in any paint coating, and this leads to the formation of cracks even under normal conditions.
Insufficient drying time. The risk of cracking increases when thick layers of paint are superimposed on each other without exposure to the proper drying time.
Insufficient stirring of paint before use. The poorly mixed paint affects the strength of the paint layer, its flexibility and grip, which, in turn, leads to the occurrence of cracks.
Insufficient cleaning and preparation of the surface to painting.

Clean the defective areas before the smooth surface, although in most cases it is necessary to completely remove the paint to the metal and repaint the surface.

Craters during painting are small funnel-shaped holes on the paint-layer, which are formed in the process of painting the car by spraying or immediately after its completion. The reasons

The appearance of crater is caused by silicone particles. Silicone contains many modern waxes, paraffins and polishing compositions. It firmly sticks to the surface of the paint coating and requires additional measures to remove additional measures using alcohol mixtures. Craters appear for the following reasons:

Insufficient surface cleaning and poor preparation for painting. Polluted surfaces are washed with soap, detergents. It is necessary to take measures to remove from the surface of silicone traces with zhiro and waistwasters.
Pollution may also occur when preparing the surface to paint: from sandy dust, the pile of the used veto, automotive polishing paste. Even applicable for a short time, these substances can cause surface contamination, which, in turn, will lead to the appearance of crater.
Oil in the air duct of paint pistol. The use of silicone containing additives that prevent the formation of crater is not recommended. These additives can pollute the workshop that when performing other works can lead to loss of clutch.

Enter the smoothing of defective surfaces and apply a new layer of paint.

Rough, unevenly painted surface.

Too fast optic or inappropriate solvent, low
humidity and high temperature of the surrounding
air.
Too high paint fluidity.
Too high air pressure.
Too thin layer of paint and varnish film.
Too much spraying distance.
Poorly prepared primer coating.

If possible, produce polishing the surface of the part. If the defect is too strong, repaint the paint detail, or to cover with varnish.

This defect is small cracks or cracks on sharp bends of panels in places of tints. They appear during or immediately after applying a paint layer on primer.

Too thick layer of paint film without appropriate drying. This leads to the accumulation of the solvent in the layer, which, in turn, is forced.
Poor mixing and use of poorly mixed paints with solvent of primer coatings. This leads to a reduced pigment content in the paint, which causes the creation of the spongy surface structure. When the top layer is applied to the upper layer, this structure can collapse, causing shrinkage sink and cracks that lead to the occurrence of influx.
A too fast solvent for a primer coating that prevents uniformly applying the paint layer.
Insufficiently purified surface and inappropriate preparation for painting. If the protrusions (influx) in the locations of the small surface repair are not sufficiently cleaned, then the applied primer layers can "slide" down from these protrusions due to poor clutch.
Blowing the primer layer with a paint gun immediately after its overlay. It dries the surface of the coating before the air came out from there and the solvent evaporated, which leads to the shrinkage and the formation of the slots on the dried layer.

Remove the top layer of paint from the surface and repain it.

(Banner_Direct)
More matte surface compared to normal glossy. Note that two-component paints and paints applied with help give a greater gloss.

Too small thickness of the paint and varnish coating.
Scratches from smoothing.
Uneven coloring (spotting) (see the appropriate chapter above).
Insufficient portion of paint.

Repeat surface smoothing and apply the next layer of paint.

The uneven surface of the paint and varnish layer, similar to the orange crust is called shagreen. The causes of the appearance of a large step is caused by a disadvantage of paint spraying, manifested in poor fusion of droplets on the surface, i.e. Drops remain in their places (in the order, in which they flew out of the paint gun) and do not spread over the surface. Ideally, drops should be spread and mixed with each other, thus forming a smooth surface. The reasons for the formation of strishes are as follows:

Incorrect adjustment of the paint pistol or incorrect, too high or too low air pressure, too large distance Between the gun and the stained surface, too weak the stream of paint or too wide an air jet.
Too high air temperature in the workshop (use slowly evaporating solvents).
Not enough mixed materials. Many finishing paints contain components that promote the merger of the drops, therefore, if you do not mix the paint, the defect is the "orange peel" defect.
Excessively subtle paintwork.
Inappropriate paint viscosity.
The drying time between the application of individual layers is not sustained, an air flow from the paint pistol has been used to reduce drying time.

So how to remove the shag after painting cars. After complete drying, the paint will be cleaned with a defective area using abrasive composition or sandpaper (chief grainability depending on the state of the surface). Restore gloss with polishing.

In severe cases, perform smoothing defective sections of fine-grained emery paper and repaint the surface.

One of the layers of paint is peeling or easily separated when removing adhesive tape at the end of masking from the other, the previous layer. This can happen both at the initial painting and in the repainting.

Pollution between layers: oil, dust, water, etc.
Excessive exposure to high temperature or excessive temperature when applying primer or finishing layer of paint.
Too thin layer of primer or finishing coating.
The interlayer smoothing is poorly conducted, as a result of which the poor grip of the paint layers appeared.
Incompatibility of the primer, paints and finishing layers

Spend the surface smoothing to the base layer and thoroughly clean the surface. In rare cases, when the earlier repainting occurred, it may be necessary to begin treatment with a pure metal.

One of probably the most common defects is a leap. Drops, heights and influx of paint on vertical or inclined body surfaces.

The solvent in the paint is evaporated too slow.
Too dense paint layer.
The subsequent layers were applied without sufficient exposure of the previous ones.
Too small distance between the paint pistol and the treated surface.
High pressure air.
Too high spraying intensity.

How to remove her leather and influx paints and varnish on the details? If the height is not large, it can be removed using fine sandpaper and bar, and then the surface is to fill. If there are significant slopes and heights, then you will have to repaint the part. Remember that oil paints dry pretty slowly, and the depth of the influx of such paint can be significant; In many cases, an additional layer of paint is not required.

"Dry" or "semihow" drops of paint from the paint pistol form a plaque that did not attract the surface of the particles.

Used fast-drying paint.
Used improper solvent (too fast sleeping) in warm dry conditions.
Improper spray technique applied, i.e. Overtowing for neighboring (painted or unpainted areas).
Excessive return caused by improper installation of air pressure, viscosity, or painting pistol parameters.

The lacquer recycling is usually dry and does not stick to the surface, so it can be eliminated by grinding partially dried film.

The redeployment of synthetic enamel is usually wet and firmly sticks to the painted surface. Many of these materials are polished with difficulty, so it is necessary to remove the redeployment of the wet smoothing and apply a new layer.

Small pores on the surface of the finish layer are tiny holes (often grouped) on the painted surface.

Micro-octacles may occur for different reasons and are caused by the solution of solvent, moisture or air in the paint layer and then their output (when drying). This often occurs due to poor quality preparations for painting or the use of improper painting techniques, and can occur in primer and paint coatings. Micro-roles can be called by the following reasons:

The parameters of the paint pistol or improper operation are incorrectly installed. The gun was too close to the treated surface. Insufficient spraying of the primer or paintwork layer. Micro-oxide is formed when air or excess solvent exit from the painted surface when it is dried.
Impact of air jet on a freshly stained surface. It leads to air intake inside the paint bed and too rapid drying.
The overlay of the paint-layer on top of the primer or paintwork, made by the "dry" spraying.
Pollution jet oil from the compressor or moisture.
The use of heavy coatings with insufficient drying time of each layer.
The spacion knife is incorrect when applied to putty or filler. The use of a knife under an acute angle causes rolling the material under the blade and air bubbles within this material.
Error in the definition of a plot for the use of filler or putty.

In those places where microcepses are minor defects, they are removed using a filler or smoothed using fine-grained emery paper, and then re-applying the filler.

In other cases, conduct a wet smoothing of defective sections of the coating to a depth, which guarantees the complete disposal of microcertices, then repain the defective surface. You can also remove defective paint to pure metal and repainted.

The micro-rosencies that after smoothing were exposed to filler or putty, should be subsequently filled with a thick layer of putty with a spacion knife, which should be kept at an angle of 90 ° to the surface. At the same time, the putty is well pushed into micro-ripenia.

Note: If you are concerned about the appearance of microcens, check all the factors that lead to a rapid paint drying: paint viscosity, solvent type, ambient temperature, etc.

Almost always dust and garbage when painting manifests itself in the form of uneven accumulation of particles different size On the paint bed.

Garbage and dust can get on the painted surface during painting or after it. In any case, the cause lies either in non-compliance with purity, or in the use of paint, which does not correspond to the working conditions of painting. Pollution of the painted surface contributes:

Paint pollution or solvent. The debris, of course, could not be in hermetically closed cans with paint and solvent before their discovery, but could get when the dusty bank was opened or in improper storage of not fully used materials.
Dust has not been removed after processing the primer coating.
Air pollution. It can occur either from the immediate environment or from more remote sources. Slowly dry paints (for example, enamel), require clean closed rooms for use for two reasons: increased drying time leads to a high probability of dust sediment on a freshly stained surface; Unlike cellulose colors, the gloss on enamel coatings is not restored even with polishing.
The tool and filters are poorly cleared. It happens that when changing paints, a more active solvent is used, which softens and carries with it the dried dirt accumulated in the paint pistol.

1. Varnish does not dry out

· Substances (natural oils, resins, etc.) contained in the thicker of wood make it difficult to dry. For example, in some cases, when working with leaks based on artificial resins on exotic rocks of wood;

· The old wax-impregnated floor - the remains of the wax cause the drying delay of the flowing of powdered acids and varnishes on the basis of artificial resins;

· Too little or completely no hardener (for two-component varnishes);

· Too low air temperature in the room (below + 10 °);

· High air temperature indoors, but low parquet temperature, respectively disadvantage of oxygen inflow (fresh air access) is difficult);

· Used "not the" hardener, for example, a hardener for Pu-varnish was added to the acid-driving varnish.

If the delay in the lacquer drying is caused by substances contained in wood or too low temperatures, then to eliminate this problem, it is usually sufficient to raise the temperature to + 20 ° C and provide good air access ( not draft !!!). After some time, the drying process is again activated and the lacquer will die normally. When using an erroneous hardener, the varnish is most likely to be washed. In some cases, for acid-acting varnishes, it is enough to apply a thin layer of pure hardener on the adhesive surface. However, after pumping varnish, the entire surface will be fully overcome.

2. The appearance of muddy, white spots and tracks

· The temperature of the used varnish was too low;

· Paul temperature was low. Air humidity is very high;

· The total humidity in the room (especially in new buildings) is too high.

White spots always indicate that the renewed moisture has fallen into the fresh lacquer film. It is usually enough to treat the whitewashed areas with solvent, pay attention to the content of dangerous substances in it!In any case, after this operation, it is necessary to apply another layer of varnish, previously reducing the room temperature to the desired value.

3. "Break" (swelling) varnish

· The scheme for the construction of the lacquer layer is erroneously selected - for example, Pu-varnish on solvents is used with nitrocellulose primer;

· "Not that" solvent;

· The working tool is still impregnated with a cleaner, which is mixed with the varnish used.

"Break" in a limited area can be eliminated by grinding and subsequent application of another lacquer layer, if the whole surface has "rose", it is necessary to fully complain the entire varnish and apply it again.

4. Bubble formation

· Cold varnish;

· Too thick layer of varnish;

· Like hitting sun ray;

· Unsuitable rollers or brushes.

Bubbles in the varnish occur when the film was already formed on the surface of the lacquer layer, and its lower part remains liquid. Spaning, raised the pair of solvents tend to "break through" the film, "blowing" in this way bubbles. Exit - only complete grinding and varnish anew.

5. "Skip", layering varnish

· Too high temperature indoors or on the floor surface;

· Too thick layer of varnish;

· Slow pace of performance;

· Accidental approach to work regime or "not the" work tool.

By adding a solvent, you can change the degree of viscosity of almost any varnish, thus increases its fluidity. But it usually happens to change the rhythm of the work, while shorting the time "docking" of the previously processed area with a new one. During the heating period, the temperature of the batteries should be significantly reduced. Avoid drafts !!!

6. Education "Craters"

· Working tool is not in order (especially rollers);

· The solvent is erroneously selected;

· Dresser;

· Varnish is too cold;

· Surface is contaminated with silicone.

To eliminate the "crater" by careful (matte) intermediate grinding and no less thorough surface treatment with a metal spatula, the so-called "zero-putty". The lacquer applied with the spatula should dry well, it should not be grinding it. After that, another layer of varnish is applied. Very many parquet varnish Subscribed by this "disease" in places of drafts, as well as if the lacquer was kept for a long time at a very low temperature and badly ("thick") spreads.

7. "Roughness"

· Uniformly distributed bubbles;

· Small particles of the lacquer film from the working capacity;

· Improper grinding.

"Roughness" causes often the greatest difficulties, since incomplete data about the reasons for its appearance are often given. In reality, the basis of most advertising - dirt, although it is often possible to determine the cause of roughness only with a magnifying glass. Number of varnish from the working capacity - the second most common cause. Therefore, it is especially important that all tools, capacities and work wear have been perfectly clean before starting work. Varnish containing solid particles must be skipped through a sieve.

8. "Wrinkles"

· Too early applying the subsequent layer of varnish;

· Too thick applying the subsequent layer of varnish;

· "Not that" solvent.

This phenomenon is observed in particular at varnishes on the basis of artificial resins - with too thick or fast applying the next lacquer layer. In the event that the "wrinkles" was covered with the entire surface, without complete flimsy could not do.

9. Matte-glossy plots, education "clouds"

Many matte varnishes are designed to apply the MAX layer. up to 150 g / m. kv .. When applying a thicker layer, matting substances "blur" unevenly, precipitated in each fresh layer. As a result, matte-glossy sites arise, especially in the "docking" places. It is possible to correct the position using an intermediate grinding and the subsequent application of matte varnish with a thin layer.

Defects repair painting.

Process body repair Hides in itself a huge amount of pitfalls, which can be stumbled by the prepaid and painter. It is these "stones" make painting work costly, if required good quality. In addition, paints and varnishes are subject to many negative factors from the environment.

Distribution of material (prosidation).

After painting the car, the solvent is gradually evaporated from the materials, and they begin to "spend" - part of the material becomes thinner and lower and forms "risks". This may arise for several reasons:

non-compliance with the rules of the gradation of abrasive material (a major risk to kill the average, and only then shallow);
too thick layers of soil or spatlets;
insufficient drying of materials;
incorrect number of diluents or hardeners;
low-quality materials.

To correct the error, at best, it will be necessary to re-cover the element of the lacquer, in the worst - to rejuvenate again.

After some time after applying a varnish on it, white dots appear. Such an effect is called the boiling of varnish - the solvent contained in the varnish, did not have time to evaporate and exit, "harmed" in the already solid top layer and remained in a varnish in the form of a bubble. This happens:

because of too thick layers of varnish (for each varnish there is its own technology and its own layer size);
too rapid drying of the top layer of varnish (using different varnishes on one paint or too strong drying in the chamber or under lamps).

Such a defect will eliminate only the repainting element.

Cratos.

After drying the varnish or almost immediately, the recesses appear, sometimes quite large (up to 3 mm) - crater. Such an effort is also called "" Solonilo. They occur only for one reason - the presence of silicone (fat). Silicone falls for various reasons:

insufficiently skimmed surface;
the presence of oil in the compressor;
the presence of silicone in the air is insufficient room cleaning;
the presence of silicone on old surface (Using various chemistry for rubbing the car).

Such defects can be removed only by the new lacquer coating, however, you need to make sure that Silicone will no longer fall. In such a situation, it was worse if various cleaning products were used on the car (PLAK, etc.).

Hologram effect (after polishing).

The freshly painted part is polished, and instead of shine and gloss, it becomes muddy and with the effect of the hologram. Causes can be:

lacquer drying;
too thick layer of varnish;
incorrect amount of hardener in varnish;
incorrect polishing technology or low-quality materials.

If the reason was not in polishing, then the details will have to re-cover with varnish.

Point punctures.

Immediately after applying or after drying, small point holes appear on the varnish. Silicone traces are distinguished by sharp and smooth edges and small sizes. The main reasons are two:

bad isolation from splitels (polyester materials);
unlighted pores.

To remove it will have to repaint the item again.

The appearance of bubbles.

Immediately after staining or after some time, the paint bloom appears on the surface. Such bubbles may be caused by different reasons:

insufficiently purified surface;
the presence of moisture is insufficient drying or work on "wet" with putty;
insufficient removal of microphops of corrosion;
the presence of microcracks and microcens in the metal.

Diffuse, moisture or corrosion caused the problem, you can. When corrosion, such bubbles are most often manifested in a single or small quantity, and with the presence of moisture - in large. With corrosion, they will have to remove everything to metal and remove it, it is easier to fight with moisture - most likely will help just repaint.

The effect of "wrinkling".

In a different way, they still say "wished." Such a phenomenon can occur on a fairly large surface or only in some places. For reasons include:

the incompatibility of materials is the main reason. Most often occurs when repairing surfaces, where cheap materials used to be used (canvas, etc.). The solvent of fresh material is growing old, and he starts reacting. It is often possible to see the halieols of such "reels" in the places of rubbing the new soil to the old material, and then applying the LCP;
too thick layers of materials;
insufficient grazing of materials.

It is possible to remove such a defect only a repainting element with the use of insulating materials.

After applying a varnish on the surface, white spots appear. The reasons:

water getting into disheveled varnish (or incorrectly mixed with hardener).

Remove the defect can be repainted.

One of the defects of painting that affects the colors. The color changes immediately after applying a varnish on the base or gradually, after a while. Main reasons:

the use of low-quality materials (soils, varnishes, etc.);
incorrect quantitative ratio of hardeners in materials;
insufficient insulation of polyester materials (spitels), reactive primers;
the remains of bitumen, resins and other reagents on the surface (for example, a resin, having gone to the car from a tree, or bird excrement can give such a defect).

Eliminate it will help only repainting and removing the cause - the same traces of resin sometimes have to cut to metal.

Large shaggy (orange crust).

This defect occurs when applying varnish and often happens in inexperienced ras. The reasons are:

too fat or, on the contrary, a thin layer of varnish;
too much distance between the gun and the surface when applied;
too low pressure in pistol;
too small pistol nozzle.

In some cases, it is possible to remove with polishing, however, with too much gerants or too thin layer of varnish, it is necessary to apply lacquer.

Purchas of varnish or database.

On the surface immediately during the applying of paint or varnish or in a short time there are flutters. The reasons:

too much feed or pressure in the pistol;
too thick material;
too small distance Between the gun and the surface when applied.

Lacques (or acrylic paint), if they are small, can be removed by sandpaper (sometimes they even have to put them on) and refill. However, large sweeps are likely to call the database, and then the element will have to dive again. When driving the base option is only one - repainting.

Silvering of the coating (erosion).

After drying, the varnish cracks. Main reasons:

extreme temperature drills or non-compliance with temperature technologies;
improper use of hardeners;
multi-compliance of materials (drying time).

Such a defect will have to repaint.

Cloudy ("Yayuloki").

Light on a large surface (hood), stripes or stains are visible, slightly different in color from the main one. Such a defect is possible only on cereal base paints. The reasons:

improper application of the base;
insufficient bubbling before applying varnish;
low-quality basic paint.

Most often, the defect occurs on gray metallic. Recalace is needed.

Paint resin or varnish.

The defect may look different, depending on which material with what adhesion has lost (grip). It can be flawed from the base, the base from the soil, the ground from plastic or metal. The main reasons are:

non-compliance with application technologies (incorrect drying, non-compliance with the gradations of abrasives, improper use of hardeners, etc.);
improper processing of plastics or not the use of plastics primers;
low-quality materials.

Of course, such a defect can be removed only by the repainting.

When painting a car outside the special chamber is almost always accompanied by such a defect - garbage getting into the base or varnish. Some amounts are present in the chambers, and is considered permissible. Main reasons:

insufficient cleaning of surfaces or premises;
disregarding the filtering of materials through the filter-lines;
bad ventilation.

The trash in the lacker is most often removed by polishing, but in the database - it is necessary to repaint.

It may be a small speck, a stain or mark, which lies with the scar on the beauty of your wooden furniture. And, moreover, the sad well-known water spots (white spots) are destructive. Below you will find a few simple home solutions that will help you withdraw white spots on the furniture.

Imagine, you are visiting a friend, help him or to cover dinner on the table. You are transferred to a hot, smoking pan soup or sauce, and you, without thinking, install it on an elegant wooden dinner table, without a board or napkin capable of soften the temperature. Your stupidity will be seen immediately, at best, or upon completion of dinner, at worst. Proof of your offense will become more, white spot on the surface of the table. It can happen with an expensive coffee table that you presented friends, a favorite chest of drawers, who saw half of your life, and with anything. Probably the idea of \u200b\u200bhow to get rid of a white spot from wooden furniture, does not give you peace?

White spot can be ring, blurry circle or similar cloud large spot. It can be swollen or flat, similar to a film or a layer of paint over a paint coating of a tree. Such stains should not be confused with water, which are transparent and slightly swollen. White spots are caused by wood burns, hot objects on wooden surfaces and so on. You may ask, for what the furniture is designed, as not to install on it different things, and you will be right. But there is one nuance, it's not about the furniture itself, but in a paintwork, which is very subtle and fragile, but necessary for protecting wood, these coatings for high temperatures are particularly sensitive.

This is what can happen - chemicals used to protect furniture react to an increase in temperature and connecting, form chemical reactions that oxidize or burned wood. Obvious color change is an indicator of such a reaction. Installation of hot pots, pan, plates, glasses, and so on, on wooden surfaces, can cause the formation of these unattractive white spots on furniture. Tablecloth, towel or rag will help prevent the formation of spots, but depending on the coating of furniture and temperature of the object, the results of such "protection" may vary.

Even the holder for glasses and drinks can leave white spots on the furniture. Such stains are also called steam stains, since pairs of a hot object may cause a chemical reaction. Among the diverse solutions on wooden furniture, the removal of white spots remains the most difficult puzzle, but do not worry. Below you will find several useful Soviets and recommendations that will help solve the problem.

Bottling white spots with wooden furniture

Before you follow, keep in mind that the success of the white spot depends on the wood used in furniture, finishes, polishing or sealant used to protect, as well as the degree of burn. The following methods and home remedies become an alternative to paint and varnish coating. Before applying for or other means, try them on a small hidden area to avoid creating a new stain.

I. Put a cotton towel or a t-shirt over a white spot. Do not use a thick towel. Install the iron into the "Couple" mode, then place it on the towel, right above the stain. Leave the iron on the towel for one minute, then remove it. Wipe moisture remnants from the table. If you are worried about the fact that the high temperature will aggravate the stain, you can slowly move the iron around the spot area or even lift the iron to limit yourself to the bombing of the ferry spot. The trick is to influence the stain of the ferry. Do not leave the iron on the table for a long timeIn the end you can damage the furniture. You can finish work, rubbed the area with a small amount of olive oil or mineral oil.
II. Use the hairdryer, set the degree of heating to the middle or low level and direct the heat stream on the spot. Use dry soft fabric to wipe the stain.

III. Use a metal brush Troika 0 variety (000) to wipe the stain outside. But be very careful and gentle, since the steel brush can damage the paintwork.

IV. Mix cigarette ashes and butter or lemon juice or vegetable oil. Sodit the stain with a rag moistened in this abrasive mixture. Use a soft cloth. This method requires repeated repetition, as well as minor pressure when you are tereter.
V. Mix the trepal and linseed oil Before the formation of liquid paste. Carefully wipe (this paste is very abrasive) stain. Do not try too much and do not use too much paste, as the mixture can cut deep into the wood surface. Make sure the stain disappears to stop friction in a timely manner. Wipe with a clean cloth upon completion.
Vi. You can remove the stain with your finger. To do this, you need to dip it into mineral oil, then in salt. Apply your finger to the stain on the coating, then apply some pressure and start circular stain movements. Continue until it disappears.

VII. If we are talking about a polished tree, covered with wax or varnish, apply a little mayonnaise to a problem place, leave it for an hour, then erase mayonnaise. Now apply varnish.

Other means and substances that can be used to clean the white spot from furniture include:

- denatured alcohol (small amount)

- Furniture Polishing Liquid

- Half of ammonia and water glasses, mixed

— Baking soda or salt mixed with water

- Vinegar and olive oil

- Food soda and toothpaste (not gel)

If the above methods helped you remove a white spot from the furniture, make sure that you put the furniture wax or varnish layer on the clean surface. It is hard to believe, but light polishing of wooden furniture can have a stunning effect in the cleaning direction. Ancient furniture, lost in the corner of the room, may look like new, allowing you to fool guests and neighbors who will think that you bought new furniture!

So, before you go to replace the paintwork, whitening and other extreme measures, try our home offers and methods to get rid of white spots on the furniture.