How to make a handle to the chisel. Choose carpentry chisels. Three factors determining the choice among different brands

I want to immediately note the main thing. For such handles need (required !!!) Tool shank for the entire length of the birch handle. About this, a little later.

Most best time For billet Berestov in middle laneThis is the end of the spring - the beginning of summer. This year I did. It turned out by chance, went to the forest behind the oak branches, and came with Bershest. Oak fell on birches, and threw it. I could not just pass by. Before the birch there were still leaves, and the bark was removed very easily, compared with the fall last year.

If you remove the bark from the growing tree, then you must definitely leave the cork layer (brown in the previous photo), and try not to damage it. Thus, you will not harm the tree, even though the new bark will not grow up, but the tree will not die. Printed Beresto home, ....

And immediately began to process it. It was possible to cut her on rectangles, as I did it before, but I liked to pierce the spin

The bark was different in the thickness, as shouting from various sections of the trunk, and I still sorted it folding along different packages.

Beresta is not always smooth, there are "bumps", seals. Such places need to be immediately selected.

Now it remains to be cleaned (with a knife and fingers) from white husk harvested "chips", drill the central hole under the diameter of the stud, and to put the stiletto with the stiletto the direction of the crested crosswise as fibers on the plywood.

The blank must be dial with a reserve in length (tightly compressed dry) at least 3-4 cm. More from the first size.

Here I was tightened with all the power until the nuts were spinning. The length of the workpiece turned out 120 mm.

The next step is the cooking cooking. About how, how much, and with what to cook in detail in detail in the Limited me on the link. I will boil just in the water, three times half an hour. Sometimes I forget that I have been cooked there in the kitchen, and it turns out longer, but it is not scary.

After each stage of the cooking I give a little cool the workpiece so that you can take into hand, and tighten the nuts. After the first time, 1.5-2 cm is tightened, after a second 1-1.5, after the third quite a little bit. Three times quite enough, more probably no longer tightened. As a result, it became 85 mm. At the same time, Beresta is very compacted and glued together (herself) due to the fog that is present in Bereste. Double after cooking, and drying for two weeks. Sew should be dried, pulled on the heel. Periodically checking how it is strut.

Recently, for the Narex chisels, I tried to dry in the oven at a temperature of 50 degrees. This speeds up the process. Dried two days to four hours.

After drying, I remove the nuts, and unscrew the hairpin. Since it is a threaded, then just remove it will not work, only twisting. Extreme to Beste washers are glued, you can only remove them with something sharp. The fact is that the dwarf glued down, but it glued only between the layers, and inside each layer, it can be easy to peel.

This happened more than once when I pre-attached the form of a future handle with a margin, especially on the knives. No need to get upset too much about this. I glued the place of fault on gel cyanacrylate glue

So, the blanks are harvested, and with them you can do anything. Further I will stop more about the handles on the stiars of Lie-Nielsen.

I immediately say, I probably wander, and it was possible to do easier. For a thousands. I plan on the end of the branch center on the core of a 6 mm drill ..

Crown make a small sunset ...

I remove the drill, and drill at full depth.

I note how much you need to cut, so that the central opening is about 6-8 mm. depth.

Spilling is superfluous. Such a mock is needed so that the hairpin entered the tick, but did not come through.

For socket (Socket), a cone that is inserted into the chisel, drill at once to the entire depth.

Torch on a turning blank with bark in size in length. I also do with the billets from the apple tree.

A blanket from Berestov, on turning, you need to handle in an adjuttle state, otherwise it will split. To hold the center, the hole drilled in the stud.

After trimming on the machine, I cut off the remnants.

Now you can glue everything. For this I use epoxy resin. Lossing glue all from the inside and the heel itself.

Now about Narex. They have a short shank and it was necessary to somehow lengthen. Drilled a hole (pre-spit a small cone which was on the shank), and cut internal thread M6. The shank was square, I drove on the Röbra Machine, a little "rounding".

On turning, I do a blank for the future handle.

In the Berevian Dwarf drill holes for the shank of the chisels, and the thousands.

It is clear that the stud is a little in the back, thereby providing a birch handle sufficient strength, to the same, and the glue makes his job. The one climbed under the tape, but it is already small, easily removed with a rag with a solvent.

After drying the glue, I give a handle the desired shape.

Raspan, Raspil, sandpaper. I do not see the smallest P400, so I stop at this grain. Further finish.

Beresta virtually nothing absorbs anything, so applying oil on Beresto, immediately I wipe it dry, and I don't touch it anymore, and the tick is covering two or three layers after drying.

Ready hand

With Japanese, everything is much more complicated. The shank is drilled very difficult, there the metal turned out to be coal. Nevertheless, I managed it, but I would not wish this enemy. It was probably easier to breed the hairpin.

Plain home tool You can quickly make it yourself. For example, such useful things like a screwdriver, awl, small chisel, chisel, a pier or sample. The fit for this device will be found in the domestic workshop.

As a material for the handle it is better to take dense wood. There are quite a lot of options, the most popular birch, beech or pear.

With soft wood, it is easier to work with soft, but their reliability is much smaller.

On the wooden Bruke It is necessary to join the ribs, you can do it with a knife.
For convenience, it is better to start working with a long blank. Then the handle needs to be well ejected and sprinkled in size. The length of the handling of screwdriver or sewn, there must be more palm width by 15-20 mm. .

Next, we score a nail into one of the ends of the handle. In fact, nails are made of soft metal and it is easier to read it in the form of a screwdriver or a chisel. But then the tip will have to harden. For sewing, you can immediately take a segment of steel wire or springs.

If the wire or nail is thick, then you will pre-flash the hole, otherwise the blank is bursting. After installation, we cut the wire in size, for the sewn enough length 30-40 mm. . Then on the okovalyanka (any piece of metal), form working surface And drag on the sandpaper.

For thick or flat tools, such as the chisels, the handles are better to do in another way. We take two wooden dies with a width of 30-35 mm. and 12-15 mm thick. . We put the shank of the chisel between them and squeeze this sandwich in the vice. Then we disassemble, and in dents cut out the groove to the depth of half the thickness of the chisel.

In this way, handles are made for knives, chisels or working cutters.
For percussion tools, such as a breakdown or chisel, this option is fits badly. For the chisel, the handle takes the whole, from the solid tree of the tree.
Drills a hole for the shank, and on the ends of the handle must necessarily wear metal rings. At least atmospal pieces of the water pipe.
Rings tightly fit into place and fix the side with a thin nail without a hat.

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It would seem that special in the chisel? In this flat blade with a handle? But often without it, it is not possible to perform work. You can buy a lot of different incisors, but ordinary chisels are, according to most masters, the most universal, accessible and easy to use. That's what you need to know before buying them.

What is the chisel?

The rocks usually have a steel blade of 125-150 mm long and a width of 3 to 50 mm with chamfer on the edges that allow you to work in close places. Most of the chisels have sharpening at an angle of 25 °, although some narrow blades are sharpened at an angle of 30 ° for greater strength, as the joinery of the chisels are used not only for finishing trimming, but also for coarse works, such as removing material from nests and even loaves. For comparison, the cutting chisel has a long blade, sharpened at an angle of 20 ° to reduce cutting forces, and is intended exclusively for work using hand force. Never hit it in the image. Wide enlightened chisels are similar to ordinary carpentry, but short blades and handles make them perfect toolscapable of maneuvering in cramped conditions.

Three factors determining the choice among different brands

The blade of the chisel

A brief excursion to metal studies. Solid steel (high-alloy tools or high-speed) preserve the sharpness longer (and cost more), the softer alloys (carbon steel). But the soft steel is easier. Almost all of the tried chisels have a blades of carbon tool steel OL, and among them the longest of all remained sharp Kirschen, Pfeil, Stanley Sweetheart, Ashley Lies and Veritas. Both sets of chisels with high-speed Steel A2 blades (Blue Spruce and Lie-Nielsen) preserved the sharpness of the cutting edge almost three times longer than the best samples of carbon steel, which can serve as an excuse of high price. Nevertheless, the new PM-V11 alloy, from which the blades of one of Veritas sets are made, refutes the traditional for hand tool Rule: "Tight Steel - a tight sharpening." These chisels remained sharp even just longer than their competitors from high-speed steel, and we were surprised by the speed of their sharpening, which was average, compared to the steels A2 and OL.

Increase the resistance of the cutting edge of the chisels of solid, but fragile steel, such as A2 or PM-V11, is possible by increasing the angle of the secondary chamfer to 30 ° instead of the usual 25 °.

The width of the chisel blade, as a rule, does not matter, unless you have to practice the nests - to fill the ends of a 6 mm nest, you need to have a rock with a width of 6 mm. All the sets that followed by us consisted of a series of 6, 12 and 18 mm wide, and some included a 10 mm width blades. The chisels of such a width are suitable for most carpentry tasks, however, sometimes it is quite good to have another 3-millimeter blade, as well as a 16 mm wide one or more for trimming wide spikes or long sockets.

Thick blade with narrow chamfer restricts the possibilities of the chisel

Both chisels have a width of 12 mm, but the thick edges of the LEE Valley blade (left) do not allow to clean the corners of the interrogation of the connection " dovetail" Ashley Lies's chisel blade with wide chamfer (right) is more suitable for work in close places.

The flat edge of the blade, the opposite chamfer, directs the cutting edge and gives stability tool, providing better control, so we appreciated the sets of chisels, which are available on sale with ideally flat backs, - Lie-Nielsen, Blue Sprouce, Pfeil and both Veritas sets. As for other sets, it was necessary to spend on the alignment of the backs from a few minutes, and sometimes even time with the use of various hand and mechanical devices.

Pen chisel

Good chisels can serve not one decade, so do not spare time by choosing the "hand" tool. If you can experience it before buying. If you have big palms or problems with silaches, it is better to choose the chisels with handles big diameterAs Stanley Bailey, Narex, Irwin Marples, Pfeil, Kirschen and Robert Sorby Sheaf River. Those who have small hand brushes, Blue Spruce, Lie-Nielsen, Stanley Sweetheart, Traditional Woodworker and Veritas are better fit. (Approximately half of the sets narrow chisels have a little more thin and short handles than wide blades that give more control during delicate work.) Shape of the handle, as well as ways to keep it when performing different operations, no less important than it Dimensions. The variety of forms of the handles is represented in the photos.

	When dumping nests and spikes, we hardly hold the handle in the fist, providing maximum control. First of all, try to hold the chisel in this way.
	And with a slight trimming of a chisel, for example, in the corners of the faces, when there is no need in the Cyonya, one hand usually directs the blade, and the other pushes the handle. Will the chisel be comfortable for you and for such work?

Find out also features of the blade attachment to the handle. Here are the two most common methods - with the so-called "skirt" and a shank. Two sets we have had a fastening with a "skirt" (Lie-Nielsen and Stanley Sweetheart). Such handles are tightly sitting in cone deepends, when loosened them, it is easy to fix it with a slight blow of the image, and this method is preferable if the chisel works like a lever. But their manufacture is harder, so be prepared to pay more. The chisels with the shank are cheaper and, as a rule, their handles are more comfortable, but with this method of fastening the handle can easily split, as the shank inside it acts as a wedge. The metal ring is helps to prevent splitting, but does not guarantee it. For the main work in the workshop it is advisable to purchase low-cost chisels, such as Stanley Fat Mah. Their plastic handles with a metal bottle are easily withstanding the hammer blow, and the short blades are comparable relatively quickly. These tools will be useful at the construction site, as well as in the manufacture of amateur crafts and jumping dried glue or paint.

The joiner's styers (at the top and in the center) blade is attached simply, so you can work with them, using an effort of the hand or light blows, however, the hammer can split the handle. The shank inexpensive carpentry chisels (below) usually passes through the handle and ends with a metal bottle, withsting hammer and a pile blows.

Although during testing, no plastic handle cracked, we liked the rocks with wooden handles (mostly from aesthetic preferences), especially made of solid and dense rocks, such as maple, buubing, elm, housing, samshet or ash. Handles from softer beech wood (Bailey and Narex) usually have metal rings that impede the splitting during the blows of the image.

The price of the chisel

You can buy chisels one by one, when they need. But often a set of several chisers of the most running sizes costs cheaper purchases of the same chisels one by one. We seventeen tested sets We have distributed three price groups: cheaper $ 90, from $ 130 to $ 230 and more expensive $ 275. All of them cope with the main tasks equally. But be prepared for the fact that cheap chisels will have, the more expensive, made of high-quality steel.

So what kind of chisels to buy?

	Ashley Iles, a set of chisels, $ 155. These chisels are already sharpened, have thin edges with wide chamfer and retain the sharpness well. We liked the handles from the Bubingo wood, which were comfortable for people with small palms. But the edges of the brass rings at the place of the transition from the handle to the blade seemed to us too sharp. There are also sets of 4 and 11 chisers. This set is supplied without a box or rut.
	Blue Spruce, a set of chisels, $ 445. These chisels are made manually in Oregon, and in the tests were one of the best. The handles from the wavy maple impregnated with acrylic resin are not afraid of blows of the image, but too thin and slippery. Side chamfer blade wide, with sharp edgesAnd they are great for the manufacture of compounds "Lastochka Tail", but they had to brute them a little, so as not to cut their hands. Premium-class chisels from high-speed steel A2, the highest quality, look great and seems to be used to use it for sharpening with a sharpening or hitting them in the Cyonya. Looking at the price, it was expected to see the set, packed in a case or a leather ride, however, no one had no other.
	Irwin Marples, a set of chisels, $ 70. The new series of the famous brand has a handle with three speed transitions in diameter, convenient to work with the image, but manipulate a tool with a manual trimming less convenient. The blades are easily sharpened and perfectly cut, but they are quickly stupid, which should be expected from inexpensive chisels. Also produced a set of three chisers and a queen.
	Lee Valley, a set of chisels, $ 130. Their blades are sharpened easily and relatively well keep sharpness, but several chisels had to level the plane of the back for half an hour. In addition, they have the thick edges among the other participants in our test, and their ribbed pens seemed uncomfortable to us. Nevertheless, for this price you get a large range of sizes. Also selling sets of 5 chisers ($ 93). Both sets without wooden case will cost much at $ 20.
	Lie-Nielsen, a set of chisels, $ 275. One of two sets of chisels with a fastening of the handle "skirt", and if it will weaken, you can easily fit the spike knob to the conical deepening of the "skirts", and then hit the kiyayyan a couple of times so that the handle keeps firmly. Like Blue Spruce, Lie-Nielsen's chisels are made manually in Maine. They are excellent, and their price cannot be considered too high relative to other brands, also made of high-alloy steel. Also selling sets of 7 and 9 chisels and leather roller for storage.
	Narex, a set of chisels, $ 69. These tools did not impress us with their quality, but, in general, this is a good kit for a reasonable price. Toned beech handles some of us seemed rude and poorly balanced. The backs of the blades require the alignment of the plane, but they are sharpening easily. Kits from 3, 4 and 10 chisers are offered. They clearly lack a wooden case or rut.
	Pfeil, a set of chisels, $ 205. These Swiss chisels were perfectly sharp with a mirror polished chamfer and microfask. They are easy to sharpen, and they turned out to be the most persistent among tested blades of carbon steel 01. We liked their grade faceted handles from the visual wood, but the transition to narrowing at the ring could be more smooth.
	Robert Sorby, a set of chisels with octal handles, $ 175. Handles made of solid ssysta perfectly withstand the blows of the image, but they seemed inconvenient to many of us, and the metal rings on three chisels during the tests weakened. The blades were the shortest among the others, and fastened others faster.
	Robert Sorby Sheaf River, a set of chisels, with traditional handles - $ 150, with narrowing handles - $ 200.The blades are made from the same steel as Sorby's chisels with eight-marginal handles, and they are also quickly stupid. The handles from the ash showed us more convenient to the sshit, but about the form of opinion was divided almost equally. Constructive handles have a smooth transition to the ring and a blade, and the traditional were 32 mm longer, which is the advantage of manually cutting.
	Stanley Sweetheart, set of chisels, $ 230. They are the repetition of the tools of the brand Sweetheart of the beginning of the 20th century and are similar to the strokes of Lie-Nielsen sizes, shape and handles from the chast. However, their blades are made of carbon tool steel 01, so they are stupid faster. Nevertheless, they impressed us high quality, convenience, a wide range of sizes and leather rollers.
	Stanley Bailey, a set of chisels, $ 80.Like the Narex brand, Bailey's chisels have large beech handles, not well balanced, with flat faces on two sides and large metal rings. The cutting edges are long remain sharp, but quickly sharpened. The kit is completed with an excellent leather ride.
	Traditional Woodworker, a set of chisels, $ 137. Comfortable handles from the Grab make easy work with these german toolsIf they are well sharpened. The backs of the blades are almost flat and polished to the brilliance, but they often have to sharpen them. Also available sets of 11 chisels.
	Kirschen, set of chisels, $ 175. They, like the seven hundreds of Traditional Woodworker, are similar (but less comfortable) handles from the count and polished blades that retain the sharpness of the longer other carbon steel chisels. But the backs of the blades require the alignment of the plane, and the handles are covered with a thick layer of varnish, interfering with reliable capture. Sets are shipped by wooden drawer or leather ride. Also available sets of 4 chisers.
	Veritas, a set of chisels, $ 295 carbon steel 01, $ 360 from the PM-V11 alloy. These sets are similar in all, except for one - the material from which the blades are made. The PM-V11 alloy received the highest assessment as a result of tests, but if, due to the high price, it is not available for your budget, we recommend paying attention to the same chisels with carbon steel blades 01, which leave behind most of other blades from the same material. Clink profile with wide chamfer makes possible work In the tight corners. The chisel's handles are drawn from thermally treated maple wood, acquiring as a result brown color and increased strength.
	Woodriver, chisel set, $ 84. We consider this set as the best among inexpensive chisels. Handles of wood Bubingo are convenient for any work, including with the Cyonya. Metal rings are rings provide a smooth transition from the handle to the blade. When we leveled the backs and sharpened all the cutting edges, these chisels proved themselves in the work no worse than some more expensive brands.

Veritas's chisels made from the PM-V11 alloy turned out to be the most persistent, exceeding even samples made from high-speed steel A2, besides, they are quite easily sharpened, so they came to first place on the basis of the test. For the quality of this level, you will have to fork out - $ 360 per set of five chisels.

If it is more than you expected to spend, recommend sets from the average price group, such as PFEIL or Stanley Sweetheart. Pfeil's chisels for $ 205 have a flat back, perfectly sharpened and remain sharp for a long time. The STANLEY SWEETHEART set will cost $ 25 more expensive, but for this price you will get on two sties more, among which there is a 3-millimeter. And these sets you do not affect you? Then we advise you to take a set of 6 Woodriver stamps for $ 84. Although you have to align their backs yourself, but this operation is done only once, but you will have a solid and convenient set of rocks of running sizes.