Do-it-yourself slipway for the engine drawings. Homemade slipway for body repair. Materials and tools for work

Many motorists would like to know how to make a slipway with their own hands. After all, the body of cars breaks down quite often, and every time you don’t want to take the car for repairs. A slip for body repair can be made independently, if you adhere to some simple rules and a certain sequence of work.

Why is the frame slip convenient?

There are 3 main types of slipways in total. These are frame, platform and floor devices. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. The platform slip is very convenient for large vehicles. This device is placed on the ground, a car is driven onto it from above and fixed with special clamps on all sides. But here it is necessary to understand that the efforts that need to be made to repair the body can be both small and significant.

The floor slip also has rails on which special drafting devices for the body can ride. In fact, it is very convenient, because you can get even into the most difficult-to-reach place and fix a very deep dent in the body.

But the most common is the frame slip. Its structure is very similar to the floor one. Only on it you need to put the body, released from the chassis. By means of a special chain with a lever, the process of leveling even a very deformed body is carried out.

It is the frame fixtures that are the best option for the garage. At the same time, making such a slipway with your own hands will not give a man any special difficulties. It is not even necessary to use complex blueprints. It will be enough just to measure the place in the garage where it will be possible to install such a device.

At cost, even the manufacture of one frame slip can be cheaper than repairing a body at a service station.

Materials and tools for work

To make a slipway for repairing a car with your own hands, you need to immediately take care of the necessary materials and fixtures. Then the work process will go quickly. So, before work, you must definitely purchase the following materials:

channel made of durable metal, the thickness of which must be at least 5 mm;
several unnecessary, but thick pieces of metal to increase the rigidity of the structure;
electric hammer drill, a set of thick long bolts;
clamps and clamps for the subsequent fastening of the car;
reinforced metal chain, pulling mechanism;
nuts, welding machine, oil paint, reinforcing columns.

When purchasing materials and tools for work, special attention should be paid to the quality and dimensions of the metal channel. It should be borne in mind that strips will be needed to design the slipway along the entire perimeter, as well as transverse strips, which can serve as additional stiffeners. In this case, one should not forget about the columns.

The procedure for manufacturing a frame slip

First you need to make a drawing with your own hands. This is not difficult at all if you focus on existing examples. When building the simplest drawing of a slipway for body repair, it is necessary to take into account not only the permissible dimensions of the future structure, but also take into account the location of some fasteners and clamps.

The work begins with the assembly of the main frame of the slipway. To do this, you must first strengthen both the longitudinal and transverse profiles. This is where pieces of thick waste metal are needed. They just need to be well welded to the ends of the profiles, due to which the slats will be somewhat thicker in these parts.

It is necessary to immediately weld the corners to the profile, which will serve as a transverse beam, and drill holes for bolts in them. You need to try to do everything as smoothly as possible so that later there are no distortions. The parameters for such holes are selected individually in each case, which largely depends on the make and dimensions of the existing car.

The longitudinal profile should also be reinforced with corners with bolt holes and pieces of waste metal. In this case, it is important that the height of the rack remains at the level of 25 cm. This is the most convenient parameter for subsequent body repair.

Now all parts for the slipway should be cleaned with a metal brush, covered with a primer and painted with oil paint. Such measures will reliably protect the device in the future from corrosion and damage, as a result, the slipway will serve for many years.

Now you need to assemble the main frame of the slipway. To do this, first, the transverse and longitudinal strips are connected to each other by means of bolts and nuts, and then the racks are installed on top of such a horizontal structure. M4 bolts are best suited for fixing them. They will be able to withstand almost any thrust.

Now it is necessary to install the structure made in this way in a permanent place in the garage. It is very important that she does not wobble. It should also be borne in mind that the car must enter the slipway freely, without any problems and restrictions. It is advisable, if the slipway does not stand level on the surface, weld small thin pieces of metal to the bottom of the frame in the right places. After all, it is useless to put something under the mechanism, since this will not give a result.

Finally, all the necessary grips and a chain should be reliably strengthened in the places indicated in advance according to the drawing. After the structure has been tested for strength once again, if it stands level, you can safely start repairing the car body.

So, the process of making a do-it-yourself frame slipway for a garage is considered. Such a homemade slipway is reliable and comfortable enough to remove almost any dents on the body. And additional clamps and fasteners will reliably hold the car in the position necessary for a full-fledged repair. At the same time, you do not have to spend extra money on expensive car body repairs from specialists.

How much will the purchase of a slipway or a straightening stand cost? At least 50 sput. Moreover, this slipway will be suitable only for working with light damage. For serious and complex work, you will need a stand or a slipway with a much higher price, and it can be 10 or even 20 times higher than the price indicated above. I bring to your attention a small overview of the manufacture of a very powerful slipway with a budget that you yourself can determine. It all depends on the price of metal, which can be purchased both at metal bases and at the reception of ferrous metal. The basis of the 16th channel. Why 16th? Well, at least because the width of 2 welded channels allows almost any car to freely enter it, and this is important, but in terms of strength, this slipway will give odds to any factory one.

The idea of creating the slipway was taken from the Internet, in particular from Vitaly Kakhovka. Sizes 4.5 by 1.85. Why is this? Because it is a normal size. And the point. One of the biggest advantages of this building berth is that it can be put in a standard garage, or any other room in which it fits. Unlike similar slipways of frame construction, this slipway does not have the so-called "geese" (as in the photo), which increase the working area both in front and on the side by a sufficiently large distance, which does not allow using such a slipway in a regular garage.

For the manufacture of the slipway, 46 meters of the 16th channel were purchased. Moreover, they managed to find half at the reception, which made it cheaper by a few sput. 20 meters were purchased at 25 rubles per kg. at the reception of ferrous metal, and the rest was bought at a metal base at a price of 570 rubles per meter.

The channel was immediately marked and cut to size.

The length of the outer ones is 4.5 m. The length of the middle ones is 3.76 and the length of the bridges is 1.5 m. Then the channel was assembled into boxes and tightened with clamps. It is grabbed at the joints at several points. After welding 2 boxes of 4.5 meters to eliminate the deflection on the boxes, they were again tightened with clamps and pieces of the 12th channel with holes had to be welded to them and the boxes were bolted together. After that, the boxes were tack welded together so that they would not be deformed during welding. In the future, they will be cut. After that, the boxes were scalded more thoroughly. Without special markings, by eye, with tacks of 4-6 cm every 10-20 cm.

After welding all channels into blanks, in the form of boxes, half of the blanks are set aside. We lay out on the floor the outer contour of the slipway from boxes 4.5 meters long (namely, this is the length of the slipway) and internal, more precisely perpendicular boxes 1.5 meters long. I set the horizontalness with the help of a level, putting under the boxes the thickness of wood chips or metal scraps that was required. Also, before welding the first outer contour of the slipway, the diagonals were measured with a tape measure several times. After that, the boxes were welded (with tacks at the corners and center, as well as at the inner corners and centers) to form a rectangle. Then this structure was turned 180 * and tacked on the back side in all corners. Then all the joints were thoroughly welded. After that, the first outline of the frame was again turned 180 ° and scalded. After that, we proceed to the assembly of the inner part of the slipway. For this we have 2 boxes of 1.5 m, the same as the outer boxes. We grab them to a long box, stepping back 6 cm from the outer box.

We do the same with the other side.

Why 6 and not 4 or 8? Do not know. I decided that I shouldn't do less and more. And the longitudinal blanks - the boxes were already measured and cut off exactly for this gap, as planned. Then we repeat the procedure of turning the future slipway 180 * again and scald the lower part. Then turn it over again and brew the upper part.

After that, we insert the inner longitudinal boxes and, also stepping back 6 cm from the outer boxes, grab them in the newly welded transverse boxes.

The process is repeated one more time. Turn the slipway 180 * and scald. Then turn it over again on the front side and scald it completely. (The vertical walls were also scalded in a horizontal position, because I cannot boil the vertical seams with high quality). What am I doing this for? Moreover, in a couple of days the slipway was lifted up and down by a winch many times. Although it was probably worthwhile before that to make something like a rotating platform on 2 bases. It would make it easier. Anyway. The slipway is welded. What is a slipway without legs? Nope, this is some kind of legless horse, and you won't be able to fix anything on it. For the legs, I decided to use nuts, the largest that I found in the store. I don’t remember, probably 24. Well, with them bolts, 15 cm long, for future adjustment of the slipway in relation to the horizon. The nuts were welded at the corners of the slipway.

We begin the manufacture of devices for attaching a car to a slipway, as well as for pulling and pushing.

I made the clamping jaws before welding the slipway. I can’t advise you to make just such, because I haven’t pulled a single patient on my “operating table” yet. I hope they won't let me down. I made them from 2 railway platforms for attaching rails to sleepers. Having cut it in half, I welded half of the old Soviet file to each file. On the inside I welded dots on the camping ground, which I then turned into rhombuses with the help of a grinder. I decided not to weld anything to the outer part so that the thresholds of the car on the outside would remain intact. On the inner edge of the platform, I welded a plate, approximately along the thickness of the clamping jaw, so that when the jaws are pulled together, the upper clamping part does not warp, but evenly clamps the sill flange.

For the manufacture of racks with clamps, on which the clamping jaws will be welded and on which the car will be installed, as well as devices for extraction, clamps and hooks, metal was purchased on a metal acceptance with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm. For the manufacture of racks (let's call them paws) I used a centimeter metal, cutting out from the acquired platform with a width about 20 cm and a length across the width of 2 channels and a gap. i.e. 36-38 cm, as well as vertical racks, 30 cm high .

The cross braces were cut from the same metal.

After welding the 2nd vertical rack to the site, I realized that it was not worth cooking like that, because the site itself was bent from welding. Then I had to unbend the platform with a sledgehammer, placing wooden blocks under the edges, and lower the vertical stand between the slipway boxes (though at the same time the slipway had to be lifted and put on wooden blocks so that the stand did not reach the floor). But to be honest, it didn't help much. I had to weld their lower platforms with potholders together, holding them with clamps and only then weld the transverse gussets. The remaining 2 paws were cooked immediately by welding them with tacks together.

Then, from the separately purchased KAMAZ, (thickness 15 mm.) Debris and scraps of springs, the upper clamps were cut, 20-25 cm long, with a slight offset from the center, holes for KAMAZ bolts were burned out in them fastening the head to the cylinder block (16mm), that is, what I could quickly find, strong and not subject to deformation and thread stripping. Pieces of the 12th reinforcement are welded along the edges, for the same purposes as on the clamping jaws, so that there is no distortion when clamping. As embedded (lower stops, into which the bolts are inserted) I used 20 mm. a metal strip with holes originally existing in it. I only had to cut them into pieces. 8 for paws and a few more for amplifiers (you will understand later).

The next step was to weld the body clamps to the struts. There is no photo, but I will try to explain.

First, the ready-made racks were bolted to the slipway, which had been pre-leveled. I screwed them into approximately those places on the slipway, on which they will subsequently stand. Clamping all 4 paws, the level measured one height, to which the clamping jaws were welded, which were first tightened with clamps, tacked by welding, and then, after removing the paws from the slipway and laying them in a horizontal position, they were scalded to the paws from all sides.

The dimensions of my paws are indicated above, the width of the jaws was taken arbitrarily, that is, based on the availability of material, and as I already wrote, the clamps were made from railway platforms and welded halves of files. Bolts for clamps 16. Holes in the jaws, previously tacked temporarily by welding at the ends to each other to maintain alignment, were drilled on a drilling machine. But once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that all sizes are arbitrary and were taken on the basis of keeping as little scrap as possible from the available metal. I think that sponges can and should be made with a width not less than mine, but better than a larger one. The bolts and, accordingly, the holes for tightening the jaws may need to be larger and their diameter should also be larger. And maybe using factory clamps (which are commercially available) is even better, but that again costs.

The finished slipway is in front of you.
Well, that's all for today. Next time I will tell you how to make different adaptations and devices for slipway.

РќСЂР ° РІРёС‚СЃСЏ

Types of slipways

In order to properly repair your car, you should choose the most suitable slipway option. Basically, there are three types of these devices, each of which can develop an effort of up to 10 tons:

Making a slipway with your own hands: designing a frame

You can make a slipway yourself, for this it is worth studying the video and photo on the Internet, which describes the step-by-step work on its creation. The process of making a homemade device will not take much time and money. Of course, repair work requires hydraulics, which cannot be made at home. Therefore, we will consider how you can make the slipway frame, which is responsible for fixing the car. You need to start with a drawing, which you can create yourself, or download a photo on the Internet.

For the manufacture of a transverse beam, a metal profile is required, on which a post will subsequently be fixed with grips that fix the thresholds of the machine. Sill grips are made from metal corners, in which holes are drilled for mounting bolts. Then the corners are welded to the beam. You need to make holes, taking into account the car model. If you need to change the dimensions, you can simply drill additional holes in the beam. The minimum profile dimensions are 40x80 mm section and 150 mm length. Such parameters make it possible to repair almost all types of passenger cars.

In order to make the racks, you will need a longitudinal metal profile with a section of 20x40 mm. The height of each post should be 25 cm. For strengthening, you need to weld kerchiefs from the same profile. At the top, corners are welded to capture the sills of the car.

To ensure good adhesion, you can pre-cut or weld the nuts. Use fine thread bolts and nuts for fastening. Useful advice: it is best to borrow fasteners from foreign cars, where the bolts are much stronger and of better quality than in any store. It is better to fix the racks on the beam with M10 bolts: such fasteners allow you to work with hydraulics, which develops a traction force within 4 tons.

The final stage of work

To protect against corrosion, a reliable protective coating should be created, because the device will be installed in a place of high humidity. To do this, having previously cleaned all structural elements, cover it with a primer. An epoxy primer will provide the most reliable protection against rust, so it is best to use one. Without waiting for the primer to dry, apply the paint with a spray gun. (To make a homemade design presentable, that is, a factory look, you can apply black stripes to the frame after the paint dries).

So, the homemade frame is almost ready. It remains only to install it in a prepared place. You can make another similar device, but not fix it to the floor, but fix it on a pivot column. By combining such a structure with the one described above, we get a mobile version.

A slipway is a mechanism for restoring the geometry of the body. Body geometry is where the body should be at all times. The geometry of the body has hard points - spars, which can be damaged in the event of a car accident. If you try to create a description of the disturbed geometry of the body, then we can say that there are possible consequences such as uneven wear of rubber, not closing some doors or trunk, leaving the car to the side when driving straight ahead, skewed doorways and large gaps in the body panels. But such violations can occur only after a rather serious accident, if you break the headlight when meeting a lamp post, then the broken geometry is not your diagnosis. If the accident is quite serious and the geometry of the body needs to be restored, then the body will have to be pulled out, and this can be done only on the slipway. True, body work using a slipway is quite expensive, but there is a solution - you can make a slipway for body repair with your own hands.

Which slipway do you need

In order to create your own building berth, first you need to decide what kind you need. There are three different types of slipways.

Frame slip. This type of slipway is a simple frame. The damaged car is fixed on it and a strong chain is fixed in place of the strong deformation of the side members. With the help of powerful hydraulics, the damaged area is pulled out by this chain. The disadvantage of this design is the mandatory presence of a lift, so that it is possible to adjust the position of the car at a height.

This type of slipway belongs to a more professional type of body repair. It looks like a platform on which a system of hooks and holes is located - these are fasteners. Like the frame structure, the platform slipway is equipped with a hoist, but unlike the frame, such slipway often has several towers. The towers are the place for which the body can be pulled - the more there are, the better and more varied the repairs - the body can be pulled simultaneously in different directions. The main device also remains a powerful hydraulic device. The disadvantages include large dimensions.

Floor slipway. This type of slipway is mainly used by professional body repair companies. The capacity of such a slipway is enough to restore the geometry of any vehicle, even a cargo one. An effort of up to 10 tons is capable of straightening even the channel frame of a mining dump truck. The fact is that in such a slipway there are too many components that are simply not needed by an ordinary garage master. A coachman who has conceived to create such a self-made slipway simply will not be able to take advantage of all the potential and power of such a slipway.

Building a slipway

For the manufacture of the slipway, we need drawings. Different stocks are needed for different sizes of cars, but for a garage master or for yourself, a universal stock is suitable, which you can make yourself. Buying a slipway will not pay off for a long time, and since making your own slipway does not take much time and money, it is easier to make your own. So how to make a homemade slipway? What is needed for this? In fact, everything is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

What is needed when making a slipway

In order to make a slipway, we need a garage in which it will actually be located. The garage should significantly exceed the overall dimensions of the slipway. This is necessary not only for free movement around the garage, but also so that the hydraulics can be installed, and it did not rest on anything.

We will need a wide variety of equipment. One of the things you cannot do without is a welding machine. The welding machine must be semi-automatic. This will make it much easier to cook frames and beams, and it will come out more reliable. You will also need a variety of oversized heads to hold the bolts and nuts. You will also need a grinder, a drill with metal drills and a spray gun.

So let's get started. First, we need a huge amount of metal profile. Before you start working with it, you need to treat it with a metal brush to remove rust and cover it with anti-gravel. This must be done from the very beginning so that later there are no untreated places left.

For the base of the crossbeam, we need a metal profile with a cross section of at least 40 × 80 mm. In length, 150 cm will be enough. This size will be perfect for almost all types of cars. A stand will be installed on the cross beam, on which the grips for the sills of the car will be attached, the place for which the car body will be held. Fastening will be carried out by welded corners to the profile. In this profile, you will need to drill holes for the bolts. The connection of the profile to the rack is carried out directly through the corners - fastening with bolts.

The drilled holes must match the width of the specific vehicle. For a car that is significantly different in width, you just need to drill new holes.

For racks, a steel profile with a section of 20 × 40 mm is optimal. To create better reliability, you can reinforce them with overlays or kerchiefs. Gussets can be cut from the remains of the same profile. The optimum height of the uprights is 250 mm.

The corners should be welded on the racks - they will be the ones that will secure the car sills. If you think that the bolting is not very reliable, then you can weld the nuts to the rack. If you choose to keep the bolts, remember to keep the threads fine and frequent.

To increase the strength, it is possible to install bolts and nuts from foreign manufacturers. In any case, the quality of components on the market is much lower than that of the same components produced using foreign technology.

For long-term operation, it is necessary to protect the device from the effects of corrosion. Clean all joints with an iron brush, degrease and apply anti-gravel. From above, it is advisable to paint the metal from a spray gun with a special anti-corrosion paint. This is necessary to protect the metal, because it will constantly be in an area with high humidity.

To install the rack on the profile-beam, use M10 bolts. Their power reserve guarantees safe operation with hydraulics, which are designed for a capacity of up to 4 tons.

The slipway is ready for installation. Place the slipway and you can begin installing fasteners such as chains and vehicle sills.

If you create another such device and connect them with beams, you get a rolling stock. Its advantages are that it does not need a rigid connection to the floor.

The most important rule when working with such devices is safety. When creating and installing the slipway, it must be borne in mind that its power is very high and, if it is mishandled or improperly installed, it can damage not only the car, but also harm a person.

So, making a slipway in a garage is not so difficult. The main thing is competent calculation and accuracy in handling such a powerful tool.

Video

An example of a homemade slipway in the video:

And here, step by step, the process of making a slipway is shown:

If you have a car, then it is likely that the issue of repairing it is no longer news. In this process, many different tools are often required, the presence of which greatly facilitates the task. It is such a tool, or more correctly, an adaptation, that is a body slipway, which can be made by hand.

Homemade slipway, pros and cons of the device

A "slipway" is a special device presented in the form of a platform for repairing the body of vehicles in order to restore their original geometry. The desired result is achieved by multidirectional forces that act on a firmly fixed vehicle. A high-quality factory slipway is quite expensive, therefore, to carry out various repair activities, some motorists resort to creating such an assistant on their own. As practice shows, such a solution is cheaper than a ready-made version.

A slipway is an equipment that can be used both for repairing cars and for eliminating breakdowns of large vehicles, you just need to choose the right type of device. So, for today, there are three main options for stocks.

Platform products help to pull the car body in a variety of positions and with different strengths, which allows body repairs to be carried out exactly from the side where it is needed. Besides, platform slip for body repair is distinguished by its versatility, as it allows you to perform a variety of types of repairs. The main component of such a product is a hydraulic device, and its advantage is that the damaged part of the body can be pulled out in all directions. In addition, the range of repair interventions is also expanding due to a reliable fastening system. The main disadvantages of platform slipways include their overall size.

for body repair, it provides for the presence of a rail in the floor along which the retractable mechanisms move. Thanks to this design, you can repair breakdowns of any complexity, because the retractable mechanisms can be conveniently moved to the desired points.

The advantages of this type of device are relatively low price, quick installation of the vehicle and economy of the occupied space. In the event of an idle slip, the place where the car being repaired is usually located can be used for other purposes, since the rails are flush with the floor. As for the shortcomings, one cannot fail to note the complexity of performing the necessary measurements, which, in principle, is a kind of compensation for the compactness of the slipway.

The frame structures are based on a metal frame, where the machine is fixed with chains. In most cases, such equipment is used during minor repairs. From a constructive point of view, frame slipways have a more complex device and have special grips for securely fixing the machine body in the required position and at a certain height. The body is fastened in the slipway using special clamps, while the damaged part is pulled out by chains extending from the power device.

Note! The bodywork clamp, especially the hand-made one, plays an important role not only in the success of the business, but also in ensuring safety at work. Therefore, the strength of these elements must be given special attention.

To simplify the task of lifting a vehicle, frame stands are often used in conjunction with scissor lifts. The main advantage of such slipways is free access to the underbody of the vehicle, its constituent parts, as well as the ability to carry out all work at different heights. Like the previous version, frame devices do not take up much space in the garage and are distinguished by their mobility. The main disadvantage of this type of slipway is the lack of the possibility of leveling complex defects, which is explained by the limited number of drawing points. It is this fact that led to the fact that the scope of the product is limited to simple repair work and straightening of light damage to the bodies of passenger cars.

The last two options are rarely found in ordinary workshops, since they belong to the category of professional equipment. Such devices use a very complex database and measuring equipment, but if you need to perform body repairs in your own garage, then you can create a not so complex device yourself.

All types of body straightening slipways, including those made by hand, are capable of developing an effort from 1.5 to 5 tons, making the device perfect for use on all types of passenger cars (video procedures are easy to find on the net).

What is needed to create a slipway

First of all, you need to find suitable drawings that will not be difficult to find on the Internet. After that, the preparatory stage begins, which includes the selection of the necessary tools and materials. In particular, the creation of a homemade slipway for body repair will require metal profiles (used to create the base of the structure), longitudinal profiles for posts, metal corners to strengthen the structure, a welding machine, bolts and nuts, fastening mechanisms, primer, powder paint, spray gun, hydraulic devices, powerful chains and hooks.

Also, it will not be possible to do without a power rack, which must move to various points of the slipway. It is this device that applies the main force to the deformed parts of the vehicle, due to which they are aligned. Such parts are easily installed on the base of the structure and must have a high level of strength. In the place where the stand and the base are welded, an additional metal gusset is mounted to strengthen the structure.

To fix the vehicle on the slipway, you need to develop a fastening system, or simply follow the directions of the selected drawing. It is best to make fasteners with the ability to change the height.

How to create a slipway with your own hands, step by step

After all the materials have been prepared, you can proceed to the direct manufacture of the slipway. First, thoroughly degrease all the elements and cover them with a primer. You can also powder paint the parts right away, although this is often postponed until later.

At the next stage, the metal corners are welded to the base profile, and then the longitudinal part, which plays the role of a stand, is also welded (in addition, you need to fasten the profile with bolts). After that, power and retractable devices, chains and hooks are installed.

The thickness of the metal profile (or, as it is also called, the channel) must be at least 4 mm, and the finished frame must be 1.5-2 times larger than the dimensions of the serviced machines. For greater rigidity of the structure, the frame is reinforced with metal corners, and this can be done either with the end sides or with the entire structure.

Several cross members must be welded across the frame, which will give the slipway even greater rigidity. In addition, it will be possible to attach a drafting device to it or fix a car.

In order to make it possible to easily move the frame slip, it is recommended to weld the wheels to it. The power struts, through which the pulling force is created, are attached to the holes drilled in the frame (they are made as needed).

Note!For fastening, it is best to use bolts previously removed from foreign cars, since most of those sold on the market today are not able to withstand heavy loads.

In order to ensure reliable fixation of repaired cars, you can use a locksmith's vice, but it is better to purchase special clamps.

Another important point is the size of the do-it-yourself slipway. So, for example, frames with parameters 180x80 cm are placed between the wheels of the vehicle for its entire length, but with its help it will not be possible to correct significant damage, although it is quite suitable for repairing thresholds, struts or other similar parts.

In order not to be mistaken in your decision, the geometry and dimensions of the structure can be borrowed from ready-made, factory models. Some are ideal for garage work.

Important!After completing the work, be sure to check the homemade slipway in action, because all the exhaust mechanisms and the pressure of the power devices must work flawlessly.

Now you know how you can independently and without large material costs make a slipway for body repair right in your garage.