Corner connection dovetail. How to fasten a beam into a dovetail? Dovetail beam fastening technology

The dovetail connection is traditionally considered one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable. Since ancient times, such a connection was considered a sign of high qualification and skill of a carpenter. Now it’s quite easy to make a dovetail with your own hands. To simplify manufacturing, a manual milling cutter is used, fixed in the table and a milling cutter, which is called “dovetail”.
The distance from the edge of the workpiece to the groove is adjusted using a parallel stop. By changing the distance between the cutter and parallel stop, adjust the distance from the edge of the workpiece to the beginning of the groove. The length of the groove is set using a limiter. Usually, any trim and clamp, with which it is fixed at a given distance, acts in its role. With the help of such simple devices, good repeatability in the manufacture of the groove can be achieved.

The connection consists of a spike, which looks like a swallow's tail and the same groove. Such a connection is quite strong. Thanks to the design, arbitrary violation of this connection is almost completely excluded.
The groove is selected with a cutter in one pass, immediately and to the full depth.
The spike is made by several passes. First, they try to make a spike on the trimming of an unnecessary plank, then proceed to the manufacture of the original itself, which will be used when installing the dovetail connection. It is impossible to make a spike right away for two reasons. The first is that you need to remove a lot of material in one pass, burns or chips may appear on the tree, the edges of the connection may look like in the photo below.
The second - it is quite difficult to guess the amount of material removal from the first time. Usually they do this - they take it off a little and try to insert the resulting spike into the groove. When the connection is quite tight, stop removing the material. A tight connection is one in which the stud enters the groove tightly, but without effort. If it takes a lot of effort to insert a spike in the dovetail joint, then it should also be adjusted, reducing the thickness.

Before gluing, carefully remove all remnants of chips and sawdust from the joint. Best suited for this compressed air from the compressor. You can also simply tap the workpiece on a hard surface to knock debris out of the groove. After that, glue is applied to the groove and almost immediately inserted into the spike. Procrastination in gluing may cause the tenon to simply not fit into the groove, as it has grown somewhat under the influence of moisture from the adhesive. Residues of glue that will come out after joining the parts must be removed immediately. This is best done with a damp cloth. You can also use a scraper or an old chisel. After drying, it will not be easy to remove the glue. There is a fairly simple way to remove excess glue that has come out. Before gluing, the dovetail joint is assembled without glue, “dry”. Places where glue may appear are pasted over with masking tape. After the glue dries, the adhesive tape, along with the remaining glue, is removed. It turns out a clean surface without traces.

In this way, you can make a dovetail connection with your own hands, using a manual milling cutter in your work. Naturally, not everyone will get perfect results the first time. But with a little practice, the quality of the connection will meet the necessary strength requirements.

In carpentry, there are quite a few a large number of connecting parts to each other. One of them is the dovetail. This type of connection can be seen in drawers, on chairs and other structures. It is one of the reliable connections. The grooves are made in such a way that if you try to break the connection, they will rest against each other. In order to make a dovetail with your own hands, you will need a minimum of tools and a little experience in carpentry.

Connection types

Depending on the task, the dovetail can be performed in various ways:

Corner connections.
Separating.
through.
Decorative.
Bevel connection.
Through connection with a fold.

All types of connections have their strengths and weak sides, but one way or another, they form reliable connection two parts. To work, you will need the following tools:

With these tools, you can easily make a connection. If it is possible to use a manual milling cutter, then the need for the listed tools is eliminated.

Through connection type

This type of connection is widely used in the manufacture of both hull and upholstered furniture. It is also called "box".

To begin with, the workpiece must be processed with a planer and remove excess wood. The next step is to mark the nests. Here everything is individual and depends on the width of the board, as well as on the tasks. It is necessary to draw lines across the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from both edges. Then you need to divide the distance between them into an even number, set aside 3 mm on each side and draw lines across the end.

Now you need to mark the slope of the spikes with a small one. The excess that remains must be marked to avoid confusion in the future.

After marking, you can start cutting the spikes. This can be done with an electric jigsaw. or a regular saw with a fine tooth. For convenience, the workpiece can be clamped in a vise. Using a saw, you need to cut out one edge on each side of the spike. It should be cut carefully, otherwise there will be small gaps that will further spoil appearance. The same must be done with other side spikes.

Side waste should be cut off from the shoulder line, and excess wood between the spikes can be easily removed with an openwork saw. The residue on both sides can be removed with a chisel or a chisel with an oblique edge.

The cutting of the spikes is finished, and you can start marking and cutting out the nests. With the help of all the same vise, the workpiece should be clamped. The part with spikes must be attached to the workpiece and carefully mark the shape of the spikes.

After marking, carefully cut out the nests along the previously drawn lines. The cut from the main part should be done in such a way that it does not slightly reach the marking line. Carefully cut off part of the waste with an openwork saw. In order for the two parts to sit tightly together, it is necessary to clean the corners with a cutter.

When the two connections are ready, you can begin to dock them. It must be remembered that the connection is collected only once. Before gluing the parts, you need to make sure that they sit tightly together. If there are any irregularities, then they must be removed before gluing.

If everything is tight, then the following manipulations should be performed:

Two blanks need to be anointed with glue, then connected together.
tapping wooden mallet, fit two parts. Excess glue must be removed. Otherwise, after drying, the appearance will be spoiled.
After drying, the place of gluing the stripping with a grinder on both sides.
Then check the angle, which should be 1/8 for hardwood and 1/6 for softwood. If the angle is too large, then a short fiber is formed, which can affect the strength of the connection.

All these points also apply to other connection modifications. And they should be done in the same order.

decorative variety

This type of connection is used in places where beauty is needed. Another such connection emphasizes the art of the master. For the purpose of giving decorative look thin partitions are used. At the end of the workpiece, carefully draw a marking line for the shoulders. Continue the marking line to the end and mark the excess. When cutting the spikes, it is necessary to remove the waste in the same way as for through joints. Stripping must be done from the ends to the middle.

Before fixing, the workpiece must be anointed with chalk for a more rigid fixation. At the end, you need to mark the distance between the small partitions, and then continue all the lines of the spikes to the line of the shoulders, you must not forget about removing the excess. Most of the waste can be removed with a tenon-cutting award, and the shoulders are best trimmed with an openwork saw. To cut small partitions, it is necessary to press the workpiece strongly.

With slow movements along the fibers, make a cross cut next to the shoulder line. The operations must be repeated. After the done manipulations, apply glue and fasten both surfaces together.

Bevel connection

In some cases, it is necessary to combine two types of connection. The depth of the cut in such cases depends on the profile and the chamfer.

Using a thicknesser, mark the shoulder line on both sides. Draw a bevel line on the top edge. At the bottom of the workpiece, you need to mark a certain depth for the chamfer. Draw a line across the butt and up to the shoulder line. From the first mark, put another line 6 mm long. Do the same with the bottom edge. On the resulting marks, mark the required number of spikes. Mark the remaining excess.

Cut the spikes with a jigsaw and fit with a fine sandpaper. In this option, the excess is temporarily left. Draw a line of shoulder pads on both sides. On the top edge, make a small mark on the bevel line. On the workpiece, mark the nests for the spikes and leave the bevel on the lower part. After the end of the manipulations, remove all excess.

Seam connection

Quite often used in the manufacture of tables and chairs. At the bottom of the box, a special selection is made, which is called a “fold”, and the bottom of the box is inserted into it. During such a connection, gaps may occur in the corners, which can be removed by moving the shoulder pad.

The markup is slightly different from previous versions. On the sides you need to draw a line along which it will be possible to determine the depth of the fold. The inner side is marked with the same gauge parameters. Below the depth of the fold, mark 6 mm, and put the next mark from the opposite edge. On the resulting marks, mark the desired location of the spikes. Draw a line across the chamfered edge, but at the same time it must fully correspond to the marked fold.

The marking of the nests is done in exactly the same way as in the previous versions, using a finished blank with spikes and drawing accessories.

Another variation of this connection is the beveled connection. In it, all the connection is hidden by a bevel, which adds beauty to the product. Before assembling, the workpiece must be adjusted to the desired size. It should be remembered that nests must be made first, and then spikes. The marking of the spikes is carried out identically to the other option, but with one caveat: between the thickness gauge line and outer corner using a special scriber and bevel, mark the bevel on each of the edges.

Make sure that there is no more than 6 mm from the shoulder line to the overlap. At the end, between the drawn lines, you need to mark the width and position of the nests. For convenience, you can make ready stencil plywood, press it against the side walls and continue the marking line, after which all excess is removed. Before gluing two joints, it is necessary to test them. If there are defects, then remove them with a chisel and sandpaper.

Inclined docking

Mainly used for large parts. In terms of complexity, it is in first place. In order to make a tenon groove with your own hands in this type of connection, it will take much more time. The complexity of manufacturing is associated with the peculiarity of the connection, in which all the edges are located at a certain angle. Before marking, the boards must be adjusted to the same width. The drawing for the dovetail connection will greatly facilitate the task.

The drawing should start with a side view, and the thickness and dimensions should also be applied. As for the vertical projection, it can be drawn, like the lateral one. In the same way, design the side view. The figure shows a drawing of a dovetail, the dimensions of which are a certain standard.

The next step is to cut the part to length and width. Set the bevel at point X and transfer this angle to the inside. Cut off the remaining ends. Set another malka at the U corner and place it on the edges. Now we need guide lines, which can be obtained by connecting the marks on the edge.

Carefully cut off the end bevel. On the front side, you should mark the details with spikes. On the beveled ends you need to measure the size of the material. Attach a bevel to point X and mark a line along the edge of the parts. Put 6 mm notches on the top and bottom edges. The position of the spikes can be calculated from these marks.

The slope of the spikes must be marked on the inclined end of the parts. For convenience, you can use the small. Using a stencil and a square, mark the spikes. Mark the remaining excess. When cutting the spikes, it is necessary to rely on the previously marked corners, after which it is possible to draw and cut nests on the finished workpiece.

All excess is carefully removed at the end of the work. If for some reason the slope does not suit you, then it can be trimmed after gluing or cleaned with a grinder. If you have to knock out the connections with a mallet, then you need to put a piece of the bar, otherwise traces may remain.

Manual frezer

If you constantly have to deal with such compounds and produce them in large quantities, then manual way won't fit. There are stationary machines and manual milling machines that, using a special cutter, can make a certain number of spikes or “tails” in one pass. To save even more time, you can make templates. To create spikes and tails, you must have a tenon-groove cutter for a manual router.

Before milling, the workpiece should be placed vertically for convenience. Before that, you need to mark the number of tails. When milling, waste will form, which can be easily removed by the router.

In the market or in the store, you can purchase templates with which things will go even faster. To the top of the workpiece, you need to attach and fix the fixture. Then set the desired depth of cut on the router. After milling, all joints are smooth and practically do not require adjustment.

If carpentry work is to be done and a strong and reliable connection of two parts is necessary, then the best option will be a dovetail. With a hand router, even a beginner in carpentry can make spikes and tails. In addition, after assembly, such a connection looks aesthetically pleasing.

Wooden construction does not lose its relevance in our time: houses and baths from economy to luxury class are still being built from logs. Technology has come a long way and some of the old ways of making the material have been improved, but the basics have remained unchanged: the cutting of the beam and log joints is still carried out manually according to different patterns. Next, consider the dovetail cutting method.

Description

The dovetail joint is a kind of paw cutting. The lock is the intersection of the cut ends of the log located perpendicular to each other, the upper and lower faces of which are beveled to the inside. The shape of one element resembles the outlines of a dovetail, hence the name.

The slope of the horizontal planes gives the castle greater strength than a straight cutting "in the paw". When the tree shrinks, the volume of protruding elements decreases, which, by increasing the friction force, strengthen the fastening.

Advantages and disadvantages of felling dovetail

Dovetail beam fastening has a number of advantages:

Absence of corner protrusions as in the case of traditional cutting "into the bowl". This allows you to make the sheathing of logs and timber freely around the entire perimeter of the walls.
Compared to the paw-cut, the dovetail has a strong lock and the design is stable and reliable.
The joint is sealed.
The cabin is neat in appearance compared to other types of castle building.
Installation of logs and castle does not require special skills, algorithms and additional fasteners.
Relative cost-effectiveness of excavation work, which reduces construction costs.

What you should pay attention to when choosing a dovetail:

The complexity of creating a cutting for an inexperienced person. This is the type of joint that should be prepared by a professional.
Inclined joints favor the passage of rainwater into the castle, which can cause putrefactive processes in the wood and the development of mold. To avoid this phenomenon, the corners are carefully waterproofed and sheathed from the outside.
Corners are bridges of cold. To keep the room warm, they must be lined with heat-insulating materials.

The disadvantages of dovetail felling are easily eliminated at the stage construction works, therefore, one should not be afraid of them and refuse a log house of this type.

How to make a felling

It is difficult to make a dovetail with your own hands if an inexperienced craftsman does the work. The process may take long time, therefore, in the absence of skills, it is better to entrust the manufacture to a specialist with experience. This is relevant if we are talking about clumsy felling, which, by the way, is practically not used in the modern world. She has a number of disadvantages:

Low operating speed;
Inaccurate sizing.

Modern construction tools allow processing timber and logs with much more high speed than a normal hand axe.

A dovetail template for timber is an auxiliary device that copies and marks the outline of the future product, along which excess fragments are cut with a chainsaw. In the video, the master talks about how to use this intricate item:

A template of another type of ShBL-E also allows you to get the perfect dovetail contour without special skills.

Craftsmen with a sharp eye are able to create locks without the use of templates, with only an electric or chainsaw in their hands.

Before proceeding with the direct cutting, you need to decide on the contour of the log and the dimensions of the constituent elements of the castle. For different diameter logs and dimensions of the sides of the beam are taken individually, but the average dimensions of the "dovetail" (see the picture and table below).

Leg connection dimensions
Diameter, mm	Dimensions, mm
Diameter, mm	a	b	c	f
140	99	74	49	25
160	113	85	57	28
180	127	95	64	32
200	141	106	71	35
220	156	117	78	39
240	170	127	85	42
260	184	138	92	46
280	198	148	99	49
300	212	159	106	53
320	226	170	113	57
340	240	180	120	60
360	255	191	127	64

The given values are regulated by GOST 30974-2002, on the basis of which locks are currently being manufactured according to the specified type. The parameters are selected in such a way that the most hermetic, warm and strong lock connection is obtained.

If there is no metal template at hand, as in the video, you can use traditional method and make the "tail" the old fashioned way:

1) Put the dimensions of the outer contour on the end of the log or on the paper from which the projection will be taken;
2) Make a cut to the desired depth;
3) Remove the sloping part on the ledge.

(Scheme layout options for the template).

Features of the connection of the timber "in the dovetail"

The finished log house, before being sent for assembly, is treated with antiseptics and allowed to dry well. This measure will reduce the risk of unpleasant consequences when the wood gets wet.

The laying itself does not require any special measures: the logs are assembled according to the scheme by numbers. The advantage of a log house with a similar connection lies in the tight fit of the constituent elements. Logs need to be stacked on top of each other, additionally using waterproofing pads, for example, roofing material or its modern polymer counterparts. Sealing of seams with flax-jute is done only after construction is completed.

It is possible to lay logs in parallel with the sealing material. In this case, it is necessary to choose well-prepared wooden blanks so that new cracks and gaps do not open during shrinkage and shrinkage, which will still have to be isolated.

After some time, the logs dry out, including the castle, which is a bridge of cold. To prevent the heat from escaping from the premises, it is important to caulk the resulting gaps in time and insulate the corners with any modern heaters. For interior decoration professionals recommend using mineral wool slabs.

It is advisable to carefully waterproof the outer corners with sheathing, for example, siding. It protects the beam from any negative impacts environment.

Dovetail joinery was created centuries ago before the advent of reliable adhesives and affordable fasteners. This traditional way connection of two wooden parts in demand today. It is used in box structures and in the manufacture of furniture. We will talk in detail about all the features of this carpentry connection, the intricacies of its design and how to create manually and mechanized methods.

Dovetail is not only aesthetics

It is widely believed that today, in an era of affordable quality glue and cheap fasteners, the use of a dovetail is more of an aesthetic whim. This judgment is only partly true. Undoubtedly, all possible variants of this tenon connection are very expressive, testify to the skill of the carpenter and are able to decorate any project. But the dovetail, in addition to beauty, also has important functional advantages.

The connection resists the natural deformations of wood well, without losing structural integrity. Due to this quality, it is advisable to use it in large parts, especially in solid wood products in the manufacture of furniture and drawers.

Using a dovetail, you can choose the optimal strength of the connection: this is affected by the total number of spikes and the angle of the lug. Another feature that increases mechanical strength is a large bonding area.

Anatomy of a dovetail

The connection consists of two parts. At the end of one of them wide trapezoidal "dovetails" are carved, on the other - narrow reciprocal spikes. The spike on the edge is called half or one-sided due to the presence of one bevel instead of two.

What should be considered when designing a connection?

When designing a dovetail, a number of points are taken into account that will affect both its strength and appearance.

The distance between the spikes and their size determine the strength of the connection.

At equal intervals (ratio 1:1) mechanical strength the highest. But this configuration is rarely used. Because due to more elements, the production of a part takes a corresponding time. The chance of making mistakes that cause a loose fit is also higher. Typically a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio is used. In these cases, the strength of the connection remains the same high.

When joining wide parts along the edges, additional spikes are made with small gaps. This solution helps to effectively deal with warping of wood.

This is important parameter, which determines the mechanical characteristics of the connection. When too small corner, the lock will not lock and the mount will turn into a normal tenon connection. If the angle is too large, during assembly, the narrowed part of the dovetail may split and the spike will fall off.

For soft wood, the dovetail angle is made steeper, since it is more prone to crushing and deformation under the influence of loads. The optimal ratio is 1:6. For hardwood, the angle is made less steep - 1:8.

The design principle of the dovetail shape is shown in the drawing.

How to make accurate markup?

When making a dovetail with your own hands, marking accuracy is of paramount importance. For its application, traditionally, a bevel and a square are used.

more practical and convenient fixture for these purposes is a special template. Such markers come with different indicators angle, and are designed for soft or hard woods.

Making a dovetail with your own hands

To make a dovetail manually, you will need the following set of tools:

INSTRUMENTS

marking thicknesser;
Malka or a special marker;
joiner's square;
edge saw;
carpenter's chisel and mallet;
marking knife or pencil.

Cutting out the connection begins with the preparation of the part with spikes. This is important as it will be used for dovetail markings. In order not to get confused in orientation, temporary markings are made on the parts, marking the front and back sides, top and bottom edges.

We mark the line of shoulders on all four faces with a thickness gauge. Having decided on the number of spikes, using a special template, we apply markings, first on the end, and then on the face of the part. For the convenience of subsequent work, we mark the areas that will be removed.

The same procedure can be performed using a bevel and a carpenter's square.

With a back saw, we make even cuts to the shoulder line marked with a thickness gauge. We hold the canvas strictly perpendicular to the end; we saw with uniform movements without jerks. To prevent the saw from being pulled to the side, a small carpenter's square can be used as an impromptu guide.

Waste between spikes can be removed in two ways:

The first is with a jigsaw. In this case, the main part of the waste is removed, and small residues are carefully cut and cleaned with a chisel.

Choosing waste is not much more difficult using a single chisel. Having fixed the part on the workbench, we remove the wood in layers, as shown in the diagram.

Dovetail markings

We use the spiked part as a template for marking the dovetails. Aligning the end of the first part with the line of the shoulders, we mark the dovetails as shown in the photo. For convenience, we shade the waste sections.

Sawing "dovetails"

We make cuts with a back saw. We clamp the workpiece in a vice at an angle, so that the marking lines are not at an angle, but vertical. This will increase the convenience of work and allow you to make a cut more accurately.

We cut not strictly along the marking line, but next to it, so as to create a small margin for subsequent trimming of the connection. We saw smoothly, without jerks, we stop at the line of the shoulder.

Having made all the cuts, we remove the waste between the “dovetails” with a chisel. This process is similar to stripping spikes, except that the master is faced with the task of carefully and evenly trimming the left allowance.

We cut out the shoulders. We saw off the waste with a small allowance, then cut it with a chisel to the marking line.

Dry assembly and connection fitting

Before gluing, dry assembly is carried out to check the tightness of the fit. We insert the part with spikes into the dovetails and carefully knock it out with a mallet. To avoid breakage of spikes and tails, cover the connection with a piece of wood that will spread the blows.

Spikes and tails should fit snugly together. In the correct connection, light tapping with a mallet is enough to assemble. If the connection is too tight, the parts are disassembled, the problematic thickening is determined and very carefully cut with a chisel.

The glue is applied in a thin layer on all contact surfaces of both parts of the box joint. assembled structure pull together. To distribute pressure over the entire joint area, wooden blocks are placed under the jaws of the clamps.

Details of box connections are always made in several copies. You can streamline your workflow by stacking blanks and sawing the entire series in one go.

How to make a dovetail with a router

For mass production of parts with such a lock, it is advisable to use mechanized methods. The best option in this case is the use of special templates, in which one side is intended for milling "dovetails", the second - for creating spikes.

Dovetail templates require the use of two different bits. The first is a conical cutter for cutting trapezoidal dovetails. The second is a straight wood cutter to create spikes.

The part with the "tails" is positioned in such a way that its edge is located strictly in the center of the slot. The second part (with spikes) is installed flush with reverse side. For an accurate fit of two blanks, we use a carpenter's square.

We fix the assembled structure in a horizontal position, clamping it with clamps or in a vice.

Dovetail milling

For convenience, we mark the waste part with a pencil. We set the desired overhang of the cone cutter and cut out the gaps between the dovetails.

On the corresponding side of the template with a straight cutter, we cut out the spikes along the entire length of the part.

Cutting off excess spikes. We release the clamps and move the template so that each spike is in the center of the slot.

We mark the extra elements and cut them off with a milling cutter.

The main requirements for any prefabricated wooden structure are: reliability, durability and aesthetics. To solve these problems, a wide variety of docking methods have been developed. One of them is the dovetail.

This connection is formed by spikes on one part and cut teeth on the second. Both elements have the shape of an isosceles trapezoid, reminiscent of a swallow's tail. At proper preparation they are precisely engaged, forming a reliable design.

Connection application

This fastening method is used in various areas where it is necessary to obtain a reliable fastening of two parts or to assemble a whole structure. For example, in mechanical engineering, dovetail studs are used to fasten blades on a disk in various compressors, in individual units of metal-cutting machines, and in optical devices to ensure accurate linear movement.

Most widespread this species fastening received in construction and furniture production.

In construction during assembly wooden houses at the ends of the fastened logs, dovetail elements (teeth and grooves) are made. It is advisable to use it for a connection beam having rectangular shape. The dimensions of the groove and spike determine the reliability of the entire future structure.

In addition, in construction it is used in the production of various joinery products:

window frames;
windows, vents and transoms;
doorways and doors themselves;
interior partitions, arches, various recesses.

For rough connections, a scale of 1:5 is applied. It provides reliable contact especially for large parts. This scale is suitable for soft varieties wood. In hardwood structures, a scale of 1:8 is usually used. This contact looks more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing this parameter, it must be taken into account that at a small angle of inclination, under the influence of external load or internal tension, the structure may disperse. Therefore, it is fixed with wood glue. When a large angle is set, it decreases Bottom part thorn, which can lead to its destruction.

Making a dovetail with your own hands

The use of a dovetail mount allows you to get beautiful and reliable homemade designs from wood. Making a dovetail is easy. However, for the production of high-quality teeth and grooves, it is necessary to have certain skills in carpentry and have the necessary tools.

The sequence of self-manufacturing of such a connection is reduced to the following list of operations:

Production of markings for future spikes. Before marking, determine the number of teeth (this value depends on geometric parameters blanks). With the help of a thickness gauge, a line of so-called shoulders is drawn. Marking is done on all four faces. Using a special template, markup is applied on the end and side surface. To avoid errors when sawing, the areas to be removed are marked with a special marking or color.
Cutting spikes. It is advisable to fix the part to ensure the accuracy of the cut. If it has large dimensions and weight, it is necessary to ensure its immobility and only after that proceed with cutting. First, cuts are made to the value of the marked shoulders. The main condition for the work is to maintain a perpendicular position of the saw with respect to the surface of the butt. To prevent the saw from drifting to the side, experienced carpenters use various guides, such as a carpenter's square.
Removing gaps. This procedure is performed in two ways. In the first case, manual or electric jigsaw. The second uses a chisel and a hammer.
Markup of elements. Produce the marking of the angles of inclination of the teeth and grooves. The amount of this slope depends on the selected ratio. To obtain the same angles, a piece with sawn spikes is used as a template.
Sawing grooves. This procedure is similar in manufacturability to the process of removing gaps. To obtain high-quality results, it is necessary to ensure the fixation of the part and accuracy when cutting. Particular attention should be paid to the removal of the allowances provided.
Preliminary adjustment and assembly of the structure. This operation is necessary to check the accuracy of the manufactured spikes and grooves. With the help of pre-fitting, it is possible to identify possible defects. This will allow them to be eliminated or measures taken to ensure reliable fastening. Fitting should be carried out carefully without unnecessary effort and distortion, so as not to break the teeth. They should slide into the spikes smoothly. If necessary, grind with sandpaper.
Final assembly and gluing of the structure. After checking, glue is applied to the contact surfaces of the teeth and spikes. Glue is chosen depending on the weight and dimensions of the product. Modern manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of such products (various chemical composition, for different breeds tree, conditions of use). To ensure reliable bonding, the parts are fixed with clamps and left to dry completely.

Tools and materials

The dovetail mounting method is used when self-manufacturing wooden products on the industrial enterprises. The possibilities of a home workshop are limited, therefore, for the high-quality manufacture of such a mount, the following tools and equipment are needed:

saw with fine teeth (usually a back saw is used);
jigsaw;
chisel (it is desirable to have several different width cutting edge);
a hammer;
marking tool ( ready-made templates, thickness gauge, joiner's square);
construction pencil (sometimes a marker is used);
carpentry knife.

If the workshop has power tools, they will facilitate the solution of the task. May be useful: electric drill, jigsaw or vertical saw with small teeth.

To make a connection, you can use manual router. In addition, if a permanent assembly of wooden parts is planned, special devices are developed that allow marking and serve as guides when cutting.

In furniture and woodworking industries, teeth and grooves are cut on special machines. These include:

lamellar milling cutter;
milling machine with nozzles;
a special machine for the manufacture of dovetail fasteners;
industrial patterns.

Making a dovetail with a router is much easier and faster. The machine allows you to maintain the specified dimensions with a high degree of accuracy.

Connection design nuances

When designing dovetail elements, the following characteristics must be considered:

size and weight of each part;
type of wood;
the scope of the future design (it will help to take into account the applied loads and internal tensions of the wood);
the number of required grooves and teeth;
their shape and geometric dimensions (length, angle of inclination, base size);
spacing between teeth.

Taking into account these nuances will allow you to get a strong and durable mount. For the correct execution of the dovetail connection, the drawing must be made in accordance with established norms and rules. Too many elements can increase strength. This leads to a reduction in the size of each tooth, which can cause it to break during installation. In addition, it significantly increases the difficulty in manufacturing and leads to an increase in manufacturing time. Therefore, established ratios are used, for example 2:1 or 3:1.

After the preparatory work it is imperative to carry out a preliminary check of the accuracy of the engagement. If mistakes were made, it is necessary to adjust each element (thorn or groove). After eliminating all the shortcomings, they begin to glue the parts.

State standards

The main standard that establishes the rules for the manufacture of fasteners for wooden parts is GOST 9330-2016. It specifies the dimensions of the teeth, grooves, dowels various types assemblies. The standard provides diagrams with samples of such fasteners. Rounding rules are specified and symbols used in drawings.

Download GOST 9330-2016