How to make a wooden hammer. What do you need to make a do-it-yourself reverse hammer? What is this device

Think you know all about hammers? What could be simpler - the handle, the striking part, hammer, and rejoice! There is really nothing complicated in their device, but in the varieties you can get confused. A locksmith's hammer, a nail puller, with and without a striker, picks - it's time to learn the whole truth about hammers!

Hammer types - functional differences

The hammer is the most ancient instrument, and we can only guess for what purposes the ancient people used it. But today it is a building tool, without which no repair or construction can do. It is still possible without a nail, but without a hammer it will not work! Its design is designed to increase the force of a person's impact at times and concentrate this force at one point - a person encounters this need in almost every area where force is needed.

According to their functional purpose, these tools are divided into nail hammers, picks and hammers with strikers. Nailers are especially useful in household- this way you can not only hammer in a nail, but also, if necessary, pull it out. The design feature is the presence with back side two inwardly bent arcs, which are convenient to hook on the nail head. These hammers are especially popular with carpenters and builders. Hammers with strikers are mainly used for carpentry work, but sometimes they are needed by the same tilers. The strikers are very different in shape: square, round, narrow and wide, and so on.

The Mason's and Tiler's hammer is a flattened-back firing pin that is easy to hit with gripping blows. With their help, you can split stones, remove excess brick or hardened concrete from the surface. Hammers-hatchets are similar in structure, the reverse side of the strikers of which is flattened and sharpened in order, if necessary, to split or cut a non-thick object.

Much less common are the types of hammers that do not bounce off the surface. These are used to work with sheet metal and products requiring high precision... The ability to resist backward movement is provided by a cavity in the metal part of the hammer, which is half or three-quarters filled with metal shot. When the movement of the tool is directed towards the impact, the balls are collected in the back of the cavity, while during the impact itself, they move forward by inertia, almost completely outweighing the inertia of the rebound.

What is a hammer - a metalworker, soft, mallet!

There are hundreds of hammers in various shapes and sizes. If you highlight the main shapes, you get the following picture:

Locksmith hammers, thanks to the tapered rear end, can hammer even the smallest nails. The material from which the working part is made is chrome vanadium steel. There are two types locksmith's hammer- one has the shape of a rectangle with a square striker, the second is slightly convex, round shape... By weight, they are divided into 5 standard rooms. The first number weighs 200 grams, while the fifth - all 800. There are also specialized products weighing from 0.05 kg to 1 kg.
"Soft" hammers are tools for hammering in fragile materials. Typically, the strikers of these tools are made of aluminum, copper, rubber, polyurethane, nylon, and wood. The most practical purchase will be a hammer with replaceable heads, thanks to which you can perform a huge list of works.
A hammer with a notch on the firing pin prevents the firing pin from sliding off when hitting from the head of the nail. Most often used in carpentry.
The roofer's hammer is characterized by a special notch at the top of the striker, in which nails can be fastened different sizes... This simplifies the work when it is not possible to hold a nail with one hand and hit with a hammer with the other. A small magnet is embedded in the groove that holds the nail in place when struck.
A hammer with an addition on the back of the striking part in the form of a claw - the so-called nail hammer.
The mallet hammer is most often used to hammer chisels, so the material for its manufacture becomes the same type of wood from which the chisel handle is made. In fact, a mallet is wooden hammer often made from a single piece of wood.
Balda - a hammer for strong men! The history of the funny name has been lost in the centuries, but the instrument itself does not face such a fate - it is necessary in almost every construction or major repair. It looks like a huge hammer with a long, thick handle and a large, heavy striker, which is also called a sledgehammer. Usually, such big guys are needed in order to break something, but it is very difficult to hammer with them without damaging the material itself.

We buy the right hammer!

Going to buy this tool, the most important thing is to decide on the size and weight of its working part. A firing pin that is too light will not give the required impact force, and on the contrary, an excessively heavy firing pin will quickly exhaust you when working. In addition, a heavy hammer can cause deep injury or inadvertently damage the material itself.

When buying, pay attention also to the material from which the working part is made. The head should preferably be forged, hardened and tempered. Quenching is carried out by an increased cooling rate of the material, but such a material has a high internal stress. To remove it, tempering is carried out - heating the product in an oven to a temperature of 150-250 ° C, followed by gradual cooling.

Although tempering somewhat reduces the strength of hardening, in general, the product that has passed these stages is much stronger than conventional metal parts.

Handles in recent times made of the most different materials: plastic, polyurethane, fiberglass. But a wooden handle coming from centuries of experience craftsmen remains the most popular materials. First, a peg can be driven into a wooden handle, which significantly strengthens its grip with the striker. Secondly, such a handle can be made independently if the old one is broken or has become unusable for some other reason.

How to store and carry a hammer?

The hammer should always be at hand during work, but not always hold it! For these purposes, there is a special belt with a convenient holder, which, however, can be made independently, from a wire or a piece of leather. The essence of the holder is that it allows the handle to go through the hole, but the firing pin cannot go through. Thus, the tool is positioned on the belt with the handle down.

For easy storage of hammers and hammers, it is best to drill holes at the end of the handle(if it was not provided by the manufacturer) and make a stand with comfortable-sized studs stuffed with nails. If you do not provide this tool with a permanent "place of residence", you can be sure that you will spend more than one minute looking for it at the right time.

Electric version - jackhammer

Although the jackhammer is strikingly different from its older "brother", the principle of operation is the same - striking at one point. But it is unlikely that you will succeed in hammering a nail with a hammer option, at least so far no one has tried it. Its main function is dismantling different surfaces, structures, punching openings and niches in the walls, changing road surface and much more.

The tool is somewhat similar to an electric one or, however, a jackhammer has a more reliable and simplified design with an increased impact force. The higher the force of blows and their number, the better tool... The principle of operation of the bump stop is quite simple - inside the firing pin strikes the working part, which, after a lunge from the impact, returns to its original position. In addition to the destructive function, the jackhammer is able to tamp the surface using various platform-type attachments.

I made this hammer a couple of years ago. It was necessary because I had to tap it every paving slabs... It softens blows like a rubber mallet. Only a hammer made of rubber does not last long. Since it is not made of rubber, as it should be, at least with the addition of it.

Of course, you can't boast of design, but nevertheless, the quality of such a hammer is good.

The old mallet (pictured) has fallen into disrepair! The tree has already cracked and cracked from long-term use. It was urgent to replace it with a new one. On the computer, I drew a model of the future mallet, printed a picture on paper and set to work.

Step 1: materials and tools

For this project we need some pieces of wood. This is a great opportunity to use unnecessary wood waste. Many of my acquaintances do not give waste a chance to be useful, they just end up either in the trash can, or burned like firewood.

I am not a master of carpentry, but I think anyone can do such a hammer.

You will need:

Saw;
Joiner's glue;
Some clips, clamps

I used a circular saw. I believe that with it you can cut pieces of wood most quickly. After cutting, we take sandpaper and clean the sides.

Step 2: cut out

Everyone chooses the size of the mallet at his discretion. This is not critical. Everyone can also make the design of the hammer independently and according to their tastes.

I made my handle 350mm long. Handle width 40 mm. at one end and 30 mm at the other. You can easily achieve this size when you have a table saw. WITH hand saw it will be a little difficult, but everything is real.

Step 3: collect

Place the handle exactly in the middle of one of the 120x90 mm pieces, so that 25 mm is from the thickest side of the end of the handle. It should protrude slightly from the general head of the hammer. Now we glue all the cut pieces to each other (seen in the photo). Remember to take out the hammer handle, it shouldn't stick with the hammer.

Clamps secure the hammer for better adhesion all parts of the hammer. In places where the glue has leaked out, remove it. We also clean the glue in the hole where the hammer handle comes in. Until completely dry, it is necessary to leave our structure for at least 30 minutes. It is somewhat reminiscent of the layers of a sandwich and the spices flowing from it. It will, of course, look terrible, but in the next stages magic will happen.

Step 4: processing the hammer

Now that you have the hammer (head) and everything is firmly glued, it's time to make it even more beautiful. I made cuts on the handle of the hammer, so that afterwards I cut out small indentations. This will make the handle comfortable to hold in your hand, and then pleasant work with the mallet.

Take a pen and cut out the grooves mentioned above. We process the corners of the handle, making them more sloping (rounded). If your handle is too long, then cut it off.

After the work done, insert the handle into the hammer.

Step 5: trim and refine

We sandpaper all the irregularities on the handle, for a smoother surface and to avoid further splinters in the hand. I drilled a hole at the end of the handle so that later it was possible to store it in a hanging state.

Step 6: finished mallet hammer

If you want to glue the pen to your head, you can do so, but I didn’t do it, it’s not going anywhere anyway.

I look forward to your comments, dear friends!

Body repair is a complex operation that requires certain knowledge, special tools and devices. One such device is the reverse hammer. This is a simple tool that is easy to make with your own hands. For this, there are many photos and videos on the Internet. You can also download a drawing of the simplest version of the device.

What is a reverse hammer and what is it for?

This tool is a device that allows you to apply a certain amount of force to a restricted area of metal. A device is used to level out small areas of a deformed vehicle that have suffered from minor accidents.

Some areas of the car body can be leveled with a conventional rubber mallet by applying blows from the back. However, most surfaces do not have this access. In such cases, a reverse hammer is necessary. Its tip is fixed in the place of deformation, and a pulling jerk force is transmitted to the surface with the help of the weight, which is located at the other end of the device.

Before making a reverse hammer, it is necessary to describe the varieties of this tool. You will need this to make a drawing of the device you need, and then make it.

Reverse hammer varieties

Despite its simplicity, this device has acquired several versions over time. Each option is applied in individual cases, which depend on the type of damage and the skill of the specialist. In general terms, the design of this device is the same, as is its principle of operation. The only differences are in the way the tool is attached to the body.

The most common reverse hammer is a metal rod with a hook at one end and a weight with a stop at the other. The hook engages with a washer welded to the place of deformation. By applying impact forces to the load, the deformation is stretched to the desired moment.

The second, just as simple option reverse hammer differs from the previous one in that instead of a hook there is a regular thread at the end. To level the surface with such a device, it is necessary to make a hole in the center of the deformation, insert the threaded end there, and fasten a washer and a nut on the back side.

The most complex type of this device has at the end vacuum device, which is fixed on the surface of the deformed part using rarefied air. The suction cup can be operated both from the compressor and by the conventional method. This type of device allows the straightener to correct minor damage to the body, and at the same time maintain paintwork site if it is not damaged.

Self-production

Making a reverse hammer at home with your own hands is quite simple. It doesn’t take long and doesn’t require special materials and tools. For a more visual understanding, you can watch the video on the Internet. A primitive drawing will also not be superfluous.

To make this tool with your own hands, you will need the following:

metal pin about 50 cm and 20 mm in diameter;
cargo that has an inner hole;
threading tool (optional);
welding machine;
Bulgarian.

If it is decided to make a reverse hammer with a hook type of attachment, then a hook is made at the end of the pin. You can do it with a vice or pliers. Or weld welding machine a ready-made hook from another device.

If the tool is made with a threaded grip, the end of the pin is tapped with a suitable tool. A lot of threads should not be cut as the body metal is quite thin.

After making the tip, a weight is put on the pin, which is limited from the back of the tool. This can be done by welding, or a threaded stop can be used. The second method is more preferable, since it will allow the use of weights of different weight, depending on the required force at the end of the return hammer.

Again, in order to clearly understand how this happens, the easiest way is to watch the video. If this is not possible, then the procedure for working with this device is approximately as follows:

the tip is fixed on the deformed part of the body;
by impacts of the load on itself, the part is aligned to the desired position;
if the effort is not enough, then the load is changed to a heavier one.

When pulling out a relatively large section of metal, you can weld several washers on the same line and thread a pin through them. To do this correctly, it is advisable to watch a video on this topic. This pin is then hooked with a hook that is welded to the fixture and pulled along with the metal, aligning it to the desired state. Care should be taken when using this method, as welding a large number of washers can excessively pull the metal and damage the bodywork.

Greetings to readers of all lovers of craftsmanship. This article will tell you how to independently, with your own hands, make an analogue of a rubber hammer, such as that used in the neurologist's office. Of course, you can buy a similar hammer in a specialized medical store, but instead of wasting time looking for such a store with this tool, the author suggests spending this time on making it yourself. In addition, you will most likely be able to save a lot, since the materials you need to make the hammer are quite cheap. In addition, the manufacturing process is quite simple and does not take much time.

Before starting work, you need to collect all necessary materials to create an analogue of a rubber hammer from a neurologist's office and prepare the necessary tools:

List of materials:
-4 sticks of hot melt glue (30 cm long and 11 mm in diameter)
-Some amount of water
-Steel rod with threaded end
-Glass bottle from pills, its diameter will correspond to the size of the hammer top, therefore, you need to select it based on this parameter.
-Soap
-a couple of plastic bags
-Glass tumbler

Required tools:
-Hot glue gun
-Wood vise
-Drill with a diameter of 10 mm
-Universal knife
-Hammer

As well as electrical appliances:
-Microwave
-Fridge
-Drill

Work must be carried out in a strictly ventilated or well-ventilated area. When working with you need to dress leather gloves, as well as safety glasses.

The estimated cost of the materials spent is about $ 2.5
No special skills are required for the job.

The manufacturing time is about 3 hours, most of which had to wait for the glue to cool.

Consider detailed description the manufacturing process of a rubber mallet analogue:

Step one: Heating a glass of water

First you need to heat a glass of water. This will protect the glass from cracking, since later it will experience some temperature drops. In the next step, hot glue will be poured into the jar. Therefore, if the jar is cold, then there is a high probability that due to a sharp jump in temperature, it will crack and the glue will pour out through the crack. And this is highly undesirable. Also, preheating the jar will allow the glue to cool down more slowly, and it will have time to evenly distribute throughout the entire jar.

Therefore, the author put a glass of water in the microwave for a couple of minutes, although a kettle or a saucepan can be used for the same purposes.
Then a vial was immersed in a glass of water. This should be done slowly and smoothly to avoid cracks.

Step two: Pouring hot glue into a glass bottle

Then the heated glue was poured into the prepared vial. V this process it is important to ensure that water does not get inside the bubble, otherwise the pommel for the hammer will not be of the correct shape.

Step three: Cooling down of the glue.

After the glue has been poured into the vial, it must be cooled to harden. You just need to leave the glass with a bubble of glue on the table for one hour. After an hour, when it cools down and becomes slightly warm, you can place the bubble in the refrigerator, this will noticeably speed up the process of hardening of the hot melt glue.

Step four: take out the workpiece.

When the glue has completely cooled down, an absolutely cold bubble will help you understand this, you will need to get the blank out of the bubble. To do this, the author wrapped the bottle in several plastic bags to prevent the fragments from scattering, and broke the bottle by throwing it on the floor. It was not so easy to break the bubble, the author threw it five times.

Step five: cleaning the workpiece.

In this case, the glass of the bubble adhered quite strongly to the glue blank, so I had to tinker a little over cleaning. When working with glass shards, the author advises to use leather gloves so as not to get hurt. Remains of glass were removed with a conventional hammer.

Step six: rinsing the glue blank.

Nevertheless, small pieces of glass or dirt may remain on the workpiece, so it is better to rinse it under running water. For the best effect, wash the workpiece with soap several times, then wipe it dry with a towel.

Step seven: Correcting the shape of the workpiece.

Since the bubble has a neck, the hot melt blank is not symmetrical. Excessive influx was removed with utility knife... The result is a symmetrical, neat blank for the hammer topping.

Step eight: Drilling the hole and securing the handle.

To assemble the hammer, you need to attach the pommel to the handle. To attach the handle, you need to make a hole in the glue blank. In order not to damage the pommel while drilling a hole, it is better to fix the workpiece in wooden vise... After the pommel was securely fastened, the author drilled a hole for the handle about two centimeters deep into the workpiece. Then a handle was screwed into this hole.

Sometimes it happens that the usual type of instruments quickly becomes boring and is in no way original, since nothing stands out from the others, which, as usual, looks dull and does not cause any delight. That is why the idea of creating a carved hammer handle was undertaken, and I will tell you how the author made it in this article. Before proceeding to the process of making a carved handle, you need to decide on the choice of a tool, namely, in this case, a hammer, since it is very popular at the workplace of every DIYer.

In order to do carved handle with our own hands, we will need:
* The hammer itself with a wooden handle, ordinary, standard, in this case 600 grams.
* Wood cutters.
* Stationery knife.
* Drill with grinding attachments.
* Varnish for wooden products.
* Pencil.

After making sure that all the details are there, you can start the creative process.

Step one.
Armed with a pencil, draw the pattern you want to see on your grip, in this case a diamond-shaped pattern that looks quite original and tasteful.

After all the markings are ready, you can start cutting out the template, the so-called removal of the first layer, we do this with a clerical knife, precisely cutting out a part of the tree along the lines. When working with sharp tools, be careful, and do not forget about safety measures, for this it is better to protect your hands with gloves. In the process of cutting patterns, for more accurate processing of the ends, it is better to cut through them with more force so as not to leave scoring.

Step two.
Next, we use the cutters designed for carving in wood, with the help of them you will get a deeper place in the patterns, which will give them greater clarity and will look more effective than a shallow groove. Chinese-made cutters cannot boast of high reliability and resistance to stress, therefore, during the cutting process, their blades broke repeatedly, so be on the alert, and also work with them carefully, since during processing there is a risk of driving the blade into your hand, which is not pleasant outcome of events. After the final work with the chisels, it turned out to be something like a diamond.

Step three.
Refinement of the patterns is carried out using a drill and a grinding attachment, after this processing process the handle took on a more beautiful aesthetic appearance, as well as smooth corners.

When the work with the drill is completed, we make the surface smooth with sandpaper which needs to be cleaned on all sides of the handle.

Step four.
For more convenience, the decision was made to make a hole in the handle to place the hammer on a shelf or hang it on a nail next to other tools. We do this using a drill installed in a screwdriver, then grind this hole and enlarge it with a drill.

Step five.
The final step is to coat the surface of our carved hammer with a preliminary decorative layer, then varnish it in several layers.