How to make a paper hammer with your own hands. Carved hammer handle with their own hands. What a hammer happens - plumbing, soft, molding

V.A. Volkov. Dedicated to T.V. Cherkasova

Interceptions, crossings. Differs. Interruptions interruptions are passion overgrown thunder rumble. Slags male. Ropot. Topot. Whisper. Laughter...

The drums call the tool that strikes the work in the work of work directly or through the sub-tool. Hand percussion instruments include hammers, sledgehammers, and inquiry.

The hammer is the most common tool. He is actually in every apartment and house. But precisely because of its necessary and versatility, there are many designs of the hammers of a certain purpose: plumbing, carpentry, carpentry, etc.

Locksmith hammers

They (Fig. 1) the most mass production. They are convenient to strike at a variety of work: score, bending, flattening, etc.

Fig. 1. Scroll hammers: A - with a round brick; B - with a square brisk

Fixer hammers (Table 1) are released with round (Fig. 1a) and square brine (Fig. 16).

Table 1

Note. The heads of the hammers with a square bulk are still made with a mass of 50 and 100 g, respectively, with L 200 and 250 mM with H, equal to 75 and 82 mm under No. 1 and 2.

Hammer No. 1 with a round brick bobbin is recommended for "fine" work type of marking, wallpapers, etc., and hammers No. 2, 3, 4 - for plumbing, "nail", etc. home loads. Hammers № 5 and 6 with the same Boychik used on the "grave" affairs, for example, a driving bracket in a log.

Hammer No. 1 with a square bulk is suitable for cloves when glazed. Only a nail should be placed parallel to the glass, otherwise it will give a crack.

Steel construction hammers

These hammers, depending on the destination, make many types that are listed in Table. 2 and in fig. 2.

Joinery hammers are used to classes on a tree with the help of chisels, chisels and other tools. The main part of the hull (Fig. 2a) is a counter, auxiliary - wedge-shaped (with one-sided concave knob in the past) sock. The latter are brought nails in the grooves, in narrow places, etc.

Fig. 2. Steel construction hammers: A - joiner type MST; 6 - carpentry type MPL-1; in - carpentry type MPL-2; G - Korchka type MKI-1; d - korchak type mki-2; e - plastering type MST-1; f - plastering type MST-2; s - parquet type MPa; and - parquet type MPa Vnismi Minstroydormash; K - roofing type MKP-1 and MKP-2; l - roofing type ΜR-3; M - slate type MSH 1; n - slate type mshi-2; O - Slavic Yushchenko; P - Tile type Mpli-1; P - Tile type MPPI 2; C - Shanty type msha-1; T * - Shanty type MSH-2; f - miu-1 fist; x - MKU-2 fist; c - for notching the surfaces of concrete n brick; h - automated, driven by DVS; 1 - body; 2 - wooden handle; 3 - to stumps; 4 - tubular rod; ! S - rubber handle; 6 - filing; 7 - Ring | See fig. 2-2, 2-3, 2-4, 2-5)

A carpentry hammer type MP L-2 (Fig. 2B) is much more practical than a MPL-1 carpentry hammer (Fig. 26). The hills of the MPL-2 hammer in the hot state is pressed on the tubular rod. Caring for the stopping of the case on the rod disappears. Attention to the position of a wedge in a wooden handle of the MPL-1 hammer is necessary from the point of view of safety. Bolt Case on the handle

leads to his jumping during a shock for impact. "Steeming" in the air hull causes terrible injuries. The rubber handle is pasted with a dirt on the MPL-2 hammer rod. It slows down the palm slide and softens the return upon strike.

MPL-1 type hammers produced weighing 0.35 and 0.5kg, now - up to 0.8 kg.

Hammers-dynamic (Fig. 2g, e) produced in a mass of 0.4; 0.5; 0.6 kg with a length of the sock to 200 mm. If bricks are used as a material for these hammers, then a square brick is crushed brick, for example, when filling out voids. A flat-to-wear bricks are cut on bricks for incomplete pieces when dressing seams, laying of jambs, belt, etc. The mass of modern hammers-1 mki-1 - up to 0.7 kg, MKI-2 - up to 1 kg.

Hammers parquet (Fig. 2z, and) are manufactured different design and masses.

So the hammer (Fig. 2a) of the George Plant "Stroyoldstrument" has a lot of 0.47 kg. Narrow strip of the protruding sock of the case due to solid common Square It does not crush the wood along the edges of parquet. But this sock is sometimes difficult to hit the nail head when laying parquet. Dobochnik corrects the shortcomings of the hammer.

Hammers roofing (Fig. 2k, l) Unlike most of the other type of hammers have a flush (Table 4). They retain the integrity of the handle near the case. The sharp edges of the leaf treated will gradually split the handle.

Table 4 Hammers Roofing according to GOST 11042-83

Note. The dimensions of the MKP-3 hammer are shown in Fig. 2l, it weight is up to 1.5 kg.

Hammers roofing in the past were manufactured in 0.4 weighing; 0.5; 0.65 and 1.4 kg.

Modern automated hammer (Fig. 2h) even in appearance is different from the traditional. They do not need to swing and hold the nail. It is enough to bring to the selected point. Everything else will take the team hammer. The nail will be served from the store. Single himself, from one blow, will drive a nail in the head.

The hammer mechanism is a cross between a gun and ... engine internal combustion! The trigger is pressed, and at the same moment from a special cylinder under pressure to the working chamber, a portion of fuel is injected. It is set on electric Iskra. The microwave occurs in the chamber. His power and transferred to the Boycu, moving back-proginally.

Charge in batteries and fuel in the cylinder is enough for several hours of intensive work. Replacing a cylinder and battery is a matter of several minutes. Such "toys" produce in Finland.

An independently similar "work" can be made from a domestic tool with an electric drive having a reciprocating movement. Well, let's say, from the perforator. The pneumatic acceptance is also applicable to the design of the "self-esteem" hammers. But for their use, undoubtedly, you need a monotonous field of activity.

SUALDY.

One hand usually controls the hammer. Although the shagens hammers (Fig. 2c, T) weighing up to 2 ... 2.5 kg without the application of another hand, do not move when you need a series of shocks. Hammers-cams are also approximately this weight (Fig. 2F, x).

Sledge hamming serve to apply strong blows with two hands. Blacksmithing work is the main purpose of the sledgehammer. But without a sledgehammer can not do in garden and manor sites. It is the main tool when clogging the stakes of the fence, the device of the greenhouse, etc.

Stupid (Fig. For) and Ostropy (Fig. 36) is such a division of a sledgehammer (Table 5, 6). The first are more frequently found in everyday life.

Punchy punchy

Table 5.

Mass, kg.	Dimensions, mm.

Shawns of ominous

Table 6.

Mass, kg.	Dimensions, mm.

A hole on any type of sledgehammer is located in their center of gravity. It also has in accordance with the drawings for and 36 oval shape with a double-sided bias 1:10. This is done for a better folding handle. Therefore, with independent creativity, the displacement of the hole in a sledgehammer at the limit axis is permissible within ± 1.5 ... 2 mm, and along the transverse axis - up to ± 0.4 ... 0.6 mm.

The length of the handwall arm reaches 750 ... 900 mm. Wooden handle is good for small one-time works. Troubleshooting to fix the sledgehammer on the handle - the set. But they will not be enough for a long time and fasteners again. Yes! Poking during the wave of a sledgehammer will kill or "effectively" traumats the sledge blazer or nearby ...

Observe the security technique!

Fix the sledgewalls on the handle!

Caring for "friendship" of sledgehammes and handles permissible to forget when they are connected tightly. To achieve this, the handle is selected from a suitable steel pipe. Solid waterproof pipe is preferable. The lack of a longitudinal seam on the outer surface of the pipe and speaks about it is solidified.

Fig. 3. SledgeVolds: A - stupid; 6 - sharply.

The end of the metal handle is somewhat flattened so that it goes into the oval hole of the sledge hammer. Then "Queen" - the electric welding will trust the deed. Immediately I warn you that you can not do without welding! The end of the tube handle does not need to be brewed. There, at the time of "rest" sledgehammes, you can lay the tool.

Homemade hammer corps

Do not always make a hammer. It all depends on what kind of ballad is needed. So they gave a sledgehammer in the past century. A cobblestone of natural origin is sometimes sufficient (Fig. 4) to climb something. Brick is rarely suitable, too quickly crumbs. This is a modern brick, and in the Middle Ages and previously brick was 2 ... 3 times smaller and stronger. Nails are calmly scored.

Cut the pipe, a piece of hexagon or square slope steel, railway crutch for fixing rails on wooden spats, large bolt, etc. - All this replaces the hammer in certain circumstances.

A piece water-base pipe with outer diameter, say, 21 mm, length 200 ... 300 mm, with pipe threadTo which the valve housing is screwed (Fig. 4), or the valve assembly with a shortened or removed rod, completely reminds of the aggregate of the hammer.

Fig. 4. Homemade fast-made hammers: 1 - cobblestone (primitive design); 2 - valve; 3 - steel pipe; 4 - Flywheel-Crossbar

Flywheels (Fig. 4) of some watershed cranes and valves are a brass crossbar with a square hole in the middle. Such a flywheel is so praying to turn it into a miniature hammer. Sharpening with a file or sharpened one of the tips of the flywheel will create a sock of a hammer case. Giving the square shape tool will also expand the use of produced tools.

Semenichene hammer is made of steel bar (Fig. 5) of a square or hexagon cross section with dimensions between parallel edges from 16 to 24 mm. Steel grades for the manufacture of a hammer case preferably use the following: U7, U8, 45, 50, 60, etc. Sharpened with the electric drive makes it possible to quite accurately determine the steel brand in the art. "Ordinary" steel with a small content of carbon with a frequent application of the booze will lead to the emergence of "roses" on its edges.

Makers at the Shenychin hammer, like the factory boys, has spherical bulge, which allows its best contact with the subject that strikes. Instant load - at the point of the axis of the Boyhead. This axis passes through the center of mass.

Fig. 5. Semenichene hammer: A - Distribution of the shock load by the boil; b - housing; B - the base of the handle; g - handcoat assembly (option); D - Case Connection Scheme and Handle (Option)

The hardening of the sock and the bunch of the hull contributes to, besides the composition of the material of steel, also hardening. RECOVED TO. of the desired size The housing is heated in a muffle or any other suitable furnace to a temperature of 730 ... 830 ° C. The temperature determinant may be the color of the body close to the cherry.

The body takes ticks with long handles and hands smoothly lowered into the water, lifting proudly. Rapid splashes are possible. Glasses - Preferred eye protection. Mittens put on hands.

The cooled and dried housing is cleaned with abrasive skurt. But the body is attached and colorful color, applying colors of running. The purified housing is replaced in the oven for heating. The colors on the housing will occur in such a sequence: light and dark yellow, brown and purple-red, purple, cornflower-blue, gray. The required color is "grasp" by taking out the body and putting it on a metal base. A rubbing ringe forms a resistant film on the housing, which will protect and corrosion. The entire listed color gamma is reached within the heating of the housing from 220 to 330 ° C.

Independently produce the housing of the hammer - a time-consuming event. Vice, electric drill, files, hacksaw, caliper, ruler is a minimum set of tools. A piece of metal under the workpiece of the housing is placed according to the drawing or herein the drawings here. Depending on the existing equipment, start with surface or drilling holes. The final hole under the handle makes minimally from two in advance drilled holesbecause it is oval.

A number of structures (Fig. B) hammers "dedicated to" elimination of returns from impact. Different moving masses (liquid, fraction, mercury, rod, etc.) inside the housing or handle repaid returns. The execution of the handle or its parts in the form of a flat spring also helps to reduce the return (Fig. BE). About such hammers told the readers of Rechitsky in the book "Profession - inventor". The manufacture of such hammers is quite accessible to craftsmen.

Homemade handles

The handle in productive work the hammer plays a no less role than the case. Although in isolated cases, the case will perform its purpose and without handle. Its dimensions are largely dependent on the age, growth and physique of the "head" of the hammer. It is customary to say that one hammer is written, the other is not. Why? Few who will answer this question. Let's clarify.

Fig. 6. Homemade hammers, quenching returns from impact: a ball; 6 - mercury; in - cargo with spring; r - rod; d - fraction; E - Flat Spring Part of Handle

The thickness of the handle depends on the length of the fingers of the "applicant". Everyone will select the highest thickness without difficulties (Fig. 76). To the touch, they choose the length of the handle, which only in part depend on the mass of the hammer. The hand perceives a push or a sharp shake with every short or too long handle. Vibrations cause ambulance fatigue and affect the strength and confidence of the battle. Therefore, first chosen a well-long handle. The trial battle is found in the most convenient place of capture. The extra part of the handle is scolded so that a free end of 35 cm long remains behind the hand. In general, the heavier case, the longer they do the handle.

Fig. 7. Homemade handles: A - defective; b - the choice of thickness and length; in - handles of the modern sample; g - long-standing design; d - with deepening on the toporishche against the sliding of the palms

Experiments do not everyone adore. Well, there are recommendation tables. One, table. 7, - about the handles of the modern sample (Fig. 7b) of the cone-shaped form. The second is Table. 8 - about the handles of a long-standing sample (Fig. 7g). Such a handle, except for other advantages, safer. Her thickened end prevents the slip of the tool from the fist.

Table 7 Handles for hammers with a round brick

				Dimensions, mm.

Notes: 1) Some sizes are rounded; 2) The table is reduced.

Homemade handles, no matter how regrettable, are chosen from the found "foot" material. And there is no car autograph on it. How to be? I advise "nationality" of wood to check the nail. It even in dry coniferous wood will be easily influenced by something heavy. Reparatively rare deciduous "aristocrats" (beech, hypoems, etc.) will be given only to a long-lasting nail of the nail - "Plebea". How not to remember his advantages.

The second sign of breeding, "blue blood", wood is an appointment, a form, finishing of the found piece. Furniture still try to produce from noble breeds. Therefore, legs and crossbars, such as chairs and tables, is an excellent material for handles.

Broken hockey clubs also claim further use. These are true, from multilayer plywood. This requires for their processing of a variety of tools, and the fastening of the housing on the handle of the hammer will not be quite ordinary (Fig. 8z).

Handles for hammers on OST 90028-39, mm

Table 8.

Handles for hammers with square bulges in size are minor discrepancies with the data given in Table. 7. Therefore, the special table on the handles for hammers with square covers is missing here. The material for the handle plays the last role in its quality. Lumber of solid hardwood for handles of hammers allows the applied GOST 11 042-83. Young oak, white beech, maple, etc. Go to the production of handles. Birch and ash are less permissible.

The handles make exclusively from dry and viscous material that can subsequently take natural polishing. Cracks, rot, the proportion and wormworms are unability. Two surrounding healthy bitch with a diameter of no more than 5 mm at a distance of 2/3 of the length of the handle from the side of the free end can sometimes be seen, but not on the handles for tile hammers. The knots on the handles for these hammers are generally prohibited. Slops, sinks, bubbles, dents and both are also not found on the grinding handles.

Suitable branches of thoroughbred trees will give, increase the long-life of the handle. The bark here will execute the role of a tightening tube. Such handles, however, will not correspond to the recommended (Fig. 7). Moreover, the handles will be rough, which will cause, according to our "leading" books, corns. Maybe. It all depends on how and how much to run. However, it should be at some time to compare and look around. Not. For the cordon moving not necessarily. The counters of domestic shops will surprise. Handles of overseas axes, let's say, in the place of capture, have specially in-depths (Fig. 7d), which prevents the palm slide. A number of domestic hammers with tubular rods (Fig. 2 V, d, w, H) are equipped with rubber handles for this purpose. By the way, flipping on the palm is also inhibits their "shift".

Fig. 8. Fastening the housing to the hammer handle: A - the slopes of the housing hole; 6 - Wooden Wedge; in - metal wedge with "petals" at the edges; g - with one click; d - two wedges; e - three clins; z - screws or nails; 3 - steel wire.

Standard handle manufacturer technology is:

• 1) the markup of the workpiece according to the drawing, taking into account the transmission for processing;


• 2) Filming surface with allowance;


• 3) planing of the workpiece with the leaving of the minimum allowance;


• 4) surface treatment with skurt to remove the minimum allowance;


• 5) Emalel surface coating bright flowers Or varnish, permissible and overproofing.

Freshly prepared handle can still be in hot smoke or heavily warm in front of the fire. Then - grinding the average grain of the skins and the smallest sandpaper. Stuffing with wood chips until the gloss appears - the last operation in the surface finish. In the absence of skins, the surface of the handle smoothly scrapes window glass chips.

Fastening of the housing to the handle

Flooring hammers (Fig. 1) are the most common in everyday life. If you carefully inspect the holes in the housings, it can be seen that each opening on the inputs has an extension-bias (Fig. 8a), and between extensions - oval belt. Clear? The narrowed part of the handle is squeezed through the lines until it leaves on the other side of the hole for a length of approximately 2 mm (GOST 11042-83, p. 21). To facilitate the entry of the handle into the hole, the narrowed part is somewhat wiped with fat and tapping the thickened part. The cone facing the main part of the handle will be filled to some extent. But between the opposite cone in the housing and the spoken part of the handle will be an oval gap. It will fill the end of the narrowed part after driving into it, say, wooden or metal wedge (Table 9).

Wooden wedges

Table 9.

corps, G.			Dimensions, mm.						Number of teeth

Note: 1) The table is partial; 2) Some sizes are rounded.

The overall dimensions of metal wedges are approximately the same as wooden (Fig, 86). Wooden wedges teeth-steps make it so as to prevent independent exit of the handle from the hammer, on metal wedges, the chisels make notches. For this, the metal plate is clamped in vice. Safety is needed here. Plate, just resting in something "persistent", can slip and arm. Ershi-notches are also created by welding. Holes in the plate of the future wedge, too, inhibit its outlet of a wooden handle. Petals at the edges (Fig. 8B) wedge will successfully replace notches. Duties for the creation of petals produce hacksaw, and bending - ticks, hammer.

The number of wedges for fastening the hull and handle are different. If the hole hammer has only a side expansion-bias between the points of GB and VL, then one longitudinal wedge is clogged (Fig. 8g). Moreover, it is not surprising, in GUT 11042-83 it is said: "The admission of the symmetry of the axis of the AUD relative to the plane of the symmetry of the hammer case: 0.3 mm for the hammer case weighing up to 0.2 kg; 0.5 mm - for a hammer body mass from 0.2 to 1.0 kg ... ". It's clear. The layers of wood in the handle must extend in parallel its axis. When this parallelism is too distorted, and even the cracker under the wedge - incision and either, that is, the probability of splitting the handle when the wedge is smoothed.

The expansion-bias between BV points and DG is only along the opening. Two wedges are then clogged (Fig. 8d). Three wedges "hardened" in the handle when expanding-bias along the total oval hole. Two wedges are parallel to each other, and the third perpendicular to them between them (Fig. 8a, E). By the way, GOST 11042-83 recorded: "The number of wedges, the position of the wedge and the method of crining the standard is not established." The housing is considered correctly planned on the handle when a straight angle is formed between their axes. This corner is important to preserve and during the operation of the hammer. The case is very often depending on the blows whirls on the handle, changing the angle of nozzles.

Many instead of a wedge, performed on all the rules of art (Fig. 86), use a sliver of a suitable form. Time do not save. Slug will soon fall and well, if not with the case. Yes, everything else needs to systematically check the "health" of the chips. She, cordial, restrains the hull, which is "free" in the process of the harvest and kill it. Not! I do not scare! And the legitimate wedge is able to jump out when some trick is not used.

Wedge before "pushing" you need to lubricate with joinery glue or some other suitable, but, no doubt, not the stationery.

Is there any other ways to fix the hull on a wooden handle? Of course, there is. Two or three screws choose such a length so that it accumulates approximately 1/2 ... 2/3 of the depth of the housing hole. Two or three holes in a depth of several millimeters are sprinkled in the end of the handle along the axial plane of the hammer (Fig. 8zh). Nipers also make such depressions. Screws would well screw, do not score. To facilitate the screwing into a dry handle, screws are lubricated or spoiled by a deeper holes with a two-three-three-three-three-three-fold drill than the diameter of the screws.

Nails are also peculiar wedges, but not any. Toler nails are closely suitable for this purpose. The diameter of their rods 2 ... 3 mm, length - 20 ... 400 mm. If there are no such nails, they shorten the construction nails of the corresponding diameters. Light thermally unprocessed low carbon steel wire goes on their stamping. Therefore, hell is not so difficult to produce on them. When the cuts are applied - the problem is, the rusty nails of the recommended dimensions are used. Rust will provide at least some resistance to the population. Like screws, nails should not score the ends of the handle more than half the holes. If the nail is large, cut off with a chisel, an ax or cut off with hacksaw. Cubs are sharpened. This operation disappears when the shortening "learn" is not perpendicular to the axis of the rod, and at an angle. The angle is less than the axis of the rod and the blade of the chisel, the sharper stump. By the way, the head for the nail-wedge is not required. Consequently, the separable part is not a very resorting nail, which is after consolation.

Steel wire with a diameter of 3 ... 4 mm is not bad closes the housing on the handle of the hammer (Fig. 8z). The wire skipper is drilled at a sufficient distance from the end in the handle. When the wire is too stallet for bending, then it is a little annealed on any fire. Two gutters in the handle are stitching for wire laying. Then the "collective" is passed into the housing and flex the ends of the wire. They are sometimes more authentic, in order to wrap around the body of a suitable form, for example, a plumbing hammer with a round brick.

In this article we will tell how to create a creative handle for a hammer in the form of a hand.

Hello!

This time, the old Soviet hammer without a handle turned up at hand, which has long been lying around without a business in my workshop.

On the Internet there is plenty of pictures with an anatomical structure of bones. We choose a more informative and simple drawing, pretend the dimensions of the hammer and the approximate bone size and cut the reinforcement.

In its work, I took 12 mm. Round fittings for handle and 10 mm. For fingers.

From the instrument, I needed only:

• welding machine.

I used a semiautomatic device, but the inverter for the RDS is quite conspicuously, which may well be in yours!

The workflow is quite simple, so instead of tons of text, I will only take place on the chapters and notice the process in the photo.

I made all the sample of superfluous on the bone.

For the hammer made from 2 segments of reinforcement. In the photo it can be seen that I noted the length of the handle + the segment, in which I will later welcome the bones + planting place Under the hammer itself.

Relief handle I betrayed the same welding apparatus And a little tapping on, it turned out a shape for a hammer in the garage conditions.

And when all parts are individually ready: the hammer, fingers, handle; We proceed to assembling and welding.

After the hammer was ready, I decided to oxidize it a little and rust - so to speak to the atmospheric of work.
I dreamed by a hammer and from the sprayer with water, from which the hammer darkened and got a more interesting view.

Well, the result and complete process you can see on the video!

Durable, able to withstand a greater force of impact and at the same time rubberized out the hammer, it is easy to make it yourself. The form for casting it is made elementary, and the materials you need will be quite affordable. Step-by-step process Manufacturing a hammer from concrete with their own hands is presented and clearly demonstrated further.

Materials

Before making a hammer with your own hands, make sure that:

• lEGO designer;
• a solution for mixing concrete;
• solo epoxy resin;
• wooden handle;
• acute knife or screwdriver;
• wax for polishing a tree;
• chisels;
• emery paper;
• gloves;
• corner.

Step 1. From the LEGO constructor, collect a shape for the casting of the impact part of the hammer. The designer is good because the details of it are adjacent as closely to each other, without allowing the solution to pour through the slots. The size of the product can be done any. In this case, the hammer was needed small. You can change it at your own discretion.

Step 2.. In the center of the assembled form for casting a hammer, put a wooden handle. Be sure to make sure that the detail of the future tool is durable and not drowning. For the handle, choose strong wood species, in this workshop it was a nut.

Step 3.. Instruct the concrete solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and fill it into the form. Watch that during the process the handle continued to stand strictly vertically. If necessary, correct it. Seal with a solution with hands, pre-injected gloves. Be sure to follow the air pockets not formed. The solution should be tightly tight.

Step 4.. After a few hours, disassemble the designer. Due to the smooth surface of the plastic, the process will go without much effort, but if you doubt that it can be separated from the concrete, lubricate the shape before casting with vegetable oil. Give the material some more time to dry out.

Step 5.. Run the epoxy resin solution. It must be drove. Neat with a pencil apply it to the concrete part of the hammer. Leave the product to complete materials drying. This process will take about a day.

Greetings to readers of all lovers to crash. This article will be described on how independently, with your own hands, make an analogue of a rubber hammer, which is used in the neuropathologist's office. Of course, you can buy a similar hammer in a specialized medical store, but instead of spending time in search of such a store with the presence of this tool, the author offers to spend this time on its independent manufacture. In addition, you will most likely be able to significantly save, as the materials that will be needed for the manufacture of the hammer are rather cheap. In addition, the manufacturing process is quite simple and does not take a long time.

Before you start work, you need to collect all necessary materials To create an analogue of rubber hammer from a neuropathologist and prepare the necessary tools:

List of materials:
-4 Thermoclaster sticks (30 cm long and diameter 11 mm)
- Average amount of water
- Standing threaded rod at the end
-Stand bottle from tablets, its diameter will correspond to the size of the hammer cream, therefore it is necessary to select on this parameter.
-Soap
Plastic packages
-Claimed glass

Required tools:
Hot gluepiolet
- District vice
-Thver with a diameter of 10 mm
-Universal knife
-A hammer

As well as electrical appliances:
-Mikrovolovka
-Refrigerator
-Drill

Works should be carried out strictly in a ventilated or well-ventilated room. When working with you need to wear leather gloves, as well as safety glasses.

The estimated value of the expended materials about 2.5 $
No special skills required.

Making time for about 3 hours, of which it had to wait for the cooling of the glue.

Consider detailed description Rubber hammering analog manufacturing process:

Step one: Heating cup glass

First you need to warm the glass of water. This will allow to protect the glass from cracking, as in the subsequent it will experience some temperature differences. In the next step, hot glue will be poured into the jar. Therefore, if the bank is cold, then the likelihood that, due to a sharp leap, it will crack and glue through the crack. And this is very undesirable. Also, the preliminary heating of the jar will allow adhesion slower slower, and it will have time to easily host all the bank.

Therefore, the author put a glass with water for a couple of minutes to the microwave, although for the same purposes you can use a kettle or saucepan.
Then the bubble was immersed in a glass with water. It is necessary to do it slowly and smoothly to avoid cracks.

Step second: Filling hot glue into a glass bottle

Then the heated glue was poured into the prepared bubble. IN this process It is important to ensure that the water does not get inside the bubble, otherwise the hammer creams will not be the right form.

Step Three: Cooling glue.

After the glue was covered in a bubble, it must be cooled to harden. You just need to leave a glass with a glue bubble on the table for one hour. An hour later, when it cooled and becomes slightly warm, you can put a bubble in the refrigerator, this will noticeably speed the process of solidification of thermoclause.

Step fourth: get the workpiece.

When the glue finally cools, understand this will help you absolutely cold bubble, you will need to get a blank from the bubble. To do this, the author wrapped a bubble into several plastic bags so that the fragments do not scatter, and broke the bubble, throwing about the floor. Bubble was not so simple, the author threw it five times.

Pitch fifth: Cleaning the workpiece.

In this case, the glass of the bubble is quite stuck to the adhesive blank, so it had to be somewhat tinked over purification. When working with glass fragments, the author advises to use leather gloves so as not to be hurt. The residues of the glass were removed using a conventional hammer.

Step Six: Wash billet from glue.

And yet, small pieces of glass or dirt can remain on the workpiece, so it will be better to wash it under the jet of water. For a better effect, rinse the workpiece with soap several times, after which we wipe with a towel dry.

Step seventh: Adjustment of the shape of the workpiece.

Since the bubble has a neck, then the harvesting of the thermal oil turned out not symmetric. Excess influx was removed using a universal knife. As a result, it turned out a symmetrical neat workpiece under the hammer creation.

Step eighth: Drilling hole and fixing the handle.

To assemble the hammer, you must attach the assimios to the handle. For mounting the handle, you need to make a hole in the adhesive blank. In order not to damage the creation during the drilling hole, it is better to fix the workpiece in wooden vice. After the creamy was securely enshrined, the author drilled the hole under the handle about two centimeters deep into the workpiece. After that, the handle was screwed into this hole.

Hello everyone. In today's project we do it yourself We will try to make a hammer like a hammer from a neuropathologist's office. You can, of course buy ready, but why buy an expensive rubber hammer, if you can make this tool from the chopsticks of thermoclause yourself?!

It is very simple, cheap and not take a lot of time.

So let's get up!

Step 1: What is needed for the project

Necessary materials:
- 4 thermoclause sticks (30 cm long and diameter 11 mm)
- Some water
- Steel carving rod at the end
- glass bottle from tablets (the greater the diameter, the greater the hammer ...)
- Soap
- 2 plastic bags

Tools (+ devices):
- Gun for hot glue
- Wooden vice
- drill with a diameter of 10 mm
- Universal knife
- Glass glass
- A hammer

Electrical / Power Tools:
- Microwave
- Refrigerator
- Drill

Cause of manufacture: I need a rubber hammer!
Precautions: Ventilated room, leather gloves, safety glasses
Cost: $2.50
Qualification: Basic
The approximate time: 3 hours (~ 60% of which is waiting time).

Step 2: Heating a glass of water

Work begins with the heating of the glass of water. This action will prevent glass from cracking due to the temperature difference, and will also help hot glue to cool slowly (the next step).

I put a glass of water for a minute next to the microwave. The kettle will also fit this operation.

Step 3: Filling hot glue into a glass bottle

Start pouring hot glue into a bottle. Try to inside the bottle through the neck, water did not hit.

Step 4: Give a heat meter cool

Give the thermoclate to cool for one hour. After 60 minutes it will be a little warm.

Then I placed a bottle of refrigerator, and (intentionally) forgot about it. it a good ideaSince the thermocons in the cold is better hardening.

Step 5: Spread the glass bottle by throwing on the floor!

First wrap the bottle into two plastic packages. Then quit with power to the floor. My first time did not come out. I had to throw a bottle 5 times to crack!

Do not forget to wear protective glasses, security is always needed!

Step 6: Carefully remove the glass

Hot glue is strongly adhesive to the glass, I had to use the hammer. Remove the residues of the glass, pre-put on the hands of leather gloves.

Step 7: Rinse the harvesting from hot glue

You should remove dirt residues and pieces of glass. To do this, rinse the resulting workpiece with water, wash, and then rinse again. Further wipe dry with a towel.

Step 8: Cutting off the unnecessary slips of a thermoclaus from the workpiece

Extra influx of thermoclause are formed in a bottle neck. Cut them with a universal knife.

Step 9: Drilling holes for handle and fixing it

I covered the resulting harvesting from hot glue in my wooden vice. Next, I drilled a hole in the center of the workpiece, about ¾ inch (1.9 cm) inch. In this hole, insert the hammer handle.

Now screw the handle. It turned out perfectly!