Dovetail: theory and practice. Do-it-yourself dovetail joinery Dovetail joiner dimensions and proportions

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Spike connection UYa-2 "Dovetail"

The frame of a furniture box and many other elements of cabinet furniture usually consists of thin boards or boards. To connect them, glue and metal fasteners (nails, screws) can be used. But a much better quality fastening of the frame walls is the spike connection.

The dovetail box connection is characterized by a trapezoidal spike and groove. Together they form a strong lock capable of withstanding the bursting loads on the walls, as well as pulling forces repeatedly applied to the box during operation. This increases the durability of the product, as well as improves its decorative properties. GOST 9330-76 allows the use of three types of corner box joints: a) open straight thorn - UYa-1; b) on the dovetail thorn - UYa-2; c) on an open round plug-in thorn (dowel) - UYa-3.

The base value for marking the finger joint is the thickness of the workpieces. The rest of the parameters are calculated from it.

Using a square, we mark the length of the future spike and the depth of the groove (eyelet). We make markings around the entire perimeter of the workpiece.

The width of the base of the lug is equal to 0.85 of the thickness of the workpiece. The width of the cheeks is no more than 0.75 of the thickness of the workpiece. The bevel angle is 10 degrees. If there are several studs and lugs in the connection, the distance between them can be from 1 to 3 of the workpiece thickness. Eye

After marking, longitudinal filing and chiseling of the eyelet are performed. If necessary, clean with a file.

Thorn The end of the workpiece is aligned with the sawn eyelet, along the contours of which the thorn marking lines are applied. If the eyelet has irregularities, you can transfer its main points, and use a ruler or template to complete the marking.

Further, the longitudinal sawing of the thorn and the cutting of the cheeks is carried out. As a rule, a gusset consists of two or more tenons. In this case, the wood between the pins is removed by chiselling. Then the connection is assembled.

College of Industry Technologies "Krasnoderevets" St. Petersburg 2013

On the subject: methodological developments, presentations and notes

Technology lesson in grade 7 "Thorn connections"

This lesson was developed for the section "Manufacturing technology of products using complex connections" after studying the topic "The concept of a multi-piece product and its graphic representation." ...

Electronic presentation "Corner and center finger joints, their elements and design features" ...

Technological map of the lesson "Spike joints. Technology of manufacturing spike joints"

This technological map contains the goal, objectives and planned educational results of the lesson "Stud connections. Technology of production of stud connections". Technological structure ...

It is believed that the dovetail lock has sea roots; the dovetail was used to fasten ships with a wooden hull. Such a compound turned out to be the most resistant to wood wetting and multidirectional loads caused by sea waves. The main advantage of the technology is the reliable joining of wooden parts without the use of additional fasteners, the reliability of fastening is provided by the lock of the original trapezoidal shape. The ship's carpenters' tool included a special dovetail saw.

Traditionally in Russia, the crowns of a log house were placed "in a bowl", such a grip was cut with an ax. With the advent of good-quality carpentry tools, they began to lay the log house "in a paw", the connection had a rectangular spike. A further development of this lock was the use of a dovetail spike with a trapezoidal profile.

The dovetail technology for fixing the timber has become the main one in industrial housing construction, standard sizes and connection features are determined by GOST 30974-2002. The introduction of the standard has created favorable conditions for the development of low-rise housing construction, domestic wooden houses of industrial production are not inferior in quality to Finnish samples.

The standard establishes the types of dovetail joinery:

Paw joint;
Deaf "frying pan";
Open frying pan;
Fastening with a trapezoidal key.

A distinctive feature of these types of fastening is the tenon-groove design, which has a trapezoidal shape with a straight base.

Fastening a bar "in a paw" is the easiest way to build a log house, a reliable grip is provided by a trapezoidal spike, which is cut in the end part of each row of the crown. Correctly made and assembled lock reliably fixes the crowns of the log house in all planes. The fastening is universal, it is used for the construction of a log house from a bar and rounded logs, the connection "in a paw" is most often used in construction for shrinkage.

The design is distinguished by the absence of ends protruding beyond the corners of the structure; such a lock is called a "clean corner". A spike in such a structure is a load-bearing element and carries the main load. For the construction of a log house in a "clean corner", it is recommended to use a beam of maximum standard sizes, with a side of at least 250 mm.

It is quite difficult to do the dovetail fasteners with your own hands, in order to avoid mistakes, a full-size dovetail thorn template is used for the timber, the sample can be cut out of tin or thick paper. The template is applied to the end and outlined, the boundaries of the cuts are marked with a hammer and chisel. The cuts are made with a hand-held circular saw. The easiest way is to make inclined cuts every 10-15 mm, squeeze the trimmings with an ax and clean up with a chisel.

The advantage of the technology is the ability to work with lumber of natural moisture, in this case the spike is made with an allowance of 5-7%. The allowance will lead to the formation of gaps between the crowns, which in the process of shrinkage will be eliminated naturally.

Disadvantages and features of the dovetail connection:

A "clean corner" has through slots that can expand over time;
The log house does not have closed crowns, on each wall the masonry is shifted by half a beam, the structure must be reinforced with dowels;
The corners of the building are unpresentable and do not decorate the facade;
The developer is limited in the choice of the standard size of lumber.

According to the technology of a dovetail blockhouse, economy-class country houses, baths and outbuildings are being built, such construction is low-cost and affordable for a mass developer.

Deaf frying pan

This method in construction practice allows you to take full advantage of the advantages of a trapezoidal fastening, a feature of which is a secret T-shaped tongue-and-groove connection. The size of the thorn does not exceed half a bar and is completely recessed into the body of the bar. The corner of the house, assembled using this technology, is called "warm corner". The lock provides reliable adhesion to the crown without through slots; when treated with construction sealant, it creates a completely sealed space. In the same way, a timber is built up if its length is less than the length of the wall.

The profile is cut according to the drawing using a circular saw and a butt saw. A rectangular blank for a tenon and a groove is cut out with a circular, the given shape is given with a special hand saw. To cut the groove, you can use a hand cutter; the workplace is easy to equip yourself.

Advantages of the technology of fastening a deaf "frying pan":

Improved thermal insulation of the building;
You can use lumber of any standard size;
The castle is "hidden", the facade is getting an attractive look;
During construction, you can use a beam with a smaller profile;
Provides an economical use of building material.

The main feature is the increased requirement for wood moisture - lumber should have a moisture content of no more than 20%. The technology is widely used by manufacturers of turnkey houses.

Open frying pan

This method is used in the construction of internal partitions from a bar, laying logs for floors and ceilings. The groove is cut to the full width of the timber. The lock resembles a “claw” connection in a T-shaped version and provides fixation of the structure in the horizontal plane. This mount is simple, can be cut with a circular saw and processed with a chisel.

A simplified version of the frying pan lock is a profile in the form of a rectangular trapezoid, the fasteners are called semi-rotary. Designed for wetter woods, this type of mount is popular with individual builders.

Binding with a trapezoidal key

The dovetail connection scheme was further developed in a keyway. The butterfly key, formed by two trapezoidal shapes, is made from hardwood. The groove is cut on modern milling machines. At the dovetail keyed connection, the fastening dimensions are minimized, but such a design ensures reliable fastening of wooden structures of any complexity, and makes it possible to put the production of wood products on stream.

Key technology features:

Requires precise processing of wood using modern technology and devices;
Minimizes the consumption of resources and materials;
Retains the attractive appearance of wood grain;
Allows to manufacture wooden structures of any complexity.

Fastening with a dowel is used by manufacturers of ready-made wooden houses from expensive laminated veneer lumber and allows you to implement the most complex house projects.

Conclusion

Dovetail joining in house building is a reliable way of fastening wooden parts. With the advent of modern carpentry tools, this technology has become available for mass use. Such a mount is widely used in interior decoration and in the manufacture of small architectural forms. In a miniature version, such fasteners are used in the manufacture of furniture.

If you want to make furniture from solid wood, you will have to take certain measures against deformation of the wood. The list of such measures also includes the selection of the appropriate connection.

There are a lot of ways to connect wood parts so that they do not deform in the future. One of the most effective is the dovetail. The parts are connected to each other in such a way that it is practically impossible to separate them without glue. Each thorn is clamped like a plier. The strength of the connection is further enhanced by the fact that the area of the joint areas covered with glue is much larger here than with a simple joint without spikes.

In addition, the “dovetail” connection can rightfully be called decorative, since it can decorate any piece of furniture, of course, provided that all the teeth are made carefully and accurately. And this will require painstaking work with a saw and a chisel. All grooves and tenons must fit exactly together, and all fugues must be equally narrow. This accuracy is unlikely to be achievable the first time: try to gain experience with simple boards first.

Many interesting and beautiful examples of the dovetail connection can be seen when looking at old furniture.

The dovetail joint is considered the most beautiful, reliable and durable corner joint. It is not so easy to execute.

This is done like this

Cut parts of the required length from the boards.
On one of the boards, mark the spikes and grooves.
Transfer the markings from the front face of the board to the butt and then to the back face.
Saw through the grooves and cut them out with a chisel.
Using the treated board, mark the location of the spikes and grooves on the other board.
After finishing the second board, try to connect both parts without glue and, if necessary, make corrections.
Apply glue to the joints, carefully connect the parts and hold them under pressure until the glue sets.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Materials (edit):

Wood blanks Glue.

Instruments:

Ruler.
Pencil.
Awl or knife.
Square.
Tenon saw.
Chisels of suitable width.
Workbench.
Clamps.
Hammer.
Mallet.

The shape of the grooves and spikes in the dovetail joint

The beauty of this box lies in the harmony of the material and the corresponding design using the dovetail joint.

Homemade device for marking the bevels of the thorns: cut a template from a thin sheet of metal and shape it into the appropriate shape.

Perform markings on parts of the required length

Before marking the spikes and grooves, measure the part again, it must have the required width. If the width of the part is greater than it should be, then the markings will be inaccurate and, therefore, unusable.

Choose the right chisel

Before you start machining the grooves, check that the chisel you have is the correct size. Take care of the right tool well in advance if you plan on making very thin pimples. Chisels come in various widths - from 4 to 40 mm.

The bar protects against damage

Never hit wood directly with a mallet when connecting parts. Use a small block of wood to protect parts from damage.

More about the dovetail joint

When doing a dovetail joint, both parts are interlocked by means of a special tooth shape. The vertically standing board shown in the figure has spikes that are driven into the grooves of the horizontally located board. It is possible to connect and disconnect the boards only with the vertical position of the spikes. Otherwise, this cannot be done.

Planks connected in this way react differently to stress. And therefore, it does not matter in which part the grooves are made, and in which spikes.

In drawers, spikes are made on the front board, grooves are made in the side walls. Since the greatest load on the box occurs when it is pulled out, the connection will be most durable precisely with this arrangement of the spikes.

In the hinged shelf, the maximum load is on the horizontal parts.

They should be with spikes that will hold the curly grooves in vertically located parts.

The tenons should always be narrower than the grooves, especially when using dense and durable wood. The peculiarity of the dovetail connection is also that the spikes and grooves in the finished product look different than when unfolded - as shown in the figure below.

Even distribution

Products with dovetail corner joints are not covered with colored varnish. Therefore, the arrangement of the spikes and grooves must be uniform over the entire width of the parts. The extreme spines may be slightly wider or narrower. All other cleats and grooves must be the same.

Dovetail tracing

Experienced carpenters can distribute the tines practically by hand. For those who are just starting to master this method of connecting parts, we recommend using a ruler.

For boards up to 15 cm wide, for example, four thorns and three grooves or five thorns and four grooves are marked. For boards up to 20 cm wide - five thorns and four grooves or six thorns and five grooves. An approximate distribution pattern is as follows: the ratio of the average stud thickness to the average groove width is 1: 2.

You can very accurately draw the spikes and their bevels according to the scheme shown in the figures on the right.

Other methods of division are also possible. You can choose, for example, a smaller stud width. In the so-called English joint, the spikes are very narrow and the grooves are wide. However, in any case, the pins should not be too large to damage the narrow parts of the grooves.

Mark on the part parallel to the end edge of the thickness of the board, then half the thickness and then draw a line, the distance to which from the end is equal to the thickness of the board, multiplied by three. To now accurately distribute four spikes and three grooves, draw marks on the oblique auxiliary line, the distance between which is a multiple of 10. Then transfer this division to the marking line.

Here, the dashed lines show the middle lines of the grooves: the points of their intersection with the auxiliary line at a distance of "threefold thickness" of the board are very important for the final marking.

From the points of intersection of the middle lines of the grooves with the auxiliary line, draw lines through the points on the marking line "half the thickness of the board". In this way, the tenons and grooves will be precisely marked.

Markup

So you've marked out the spikes and grooves on the face of the board. Now you need to transfer the markings to the front side.

To do this, you need a square and a well-sharpened pencil, awl or knife. Depending on the type of wood, it may be useful or even necessary to cover the end side of the board with chalk: on a white background, the markings will be more visible. From the front side, the markings are transferred to the back face of the board.

The markings will be more accurate if the part is fixed to the workbench.

Markings with symmetrical elements on one part should be applied at the same time, so that, for example, the contours of the spikes in the corners of the drawer coincide.

With the help of a sharply sharpened pencil (or awl) and a square, the marking lines are transferred from the front face to the end side of the board.

Cutting grooves

After transferring the marking lines, before starting to saw, shade the drop-down areas on the details - the gaps between the spikes. So you will not confuse anything with further cutting and working with a chisel.

The part should be fixed on the workbench in such a way that the marking lines of bevels parallel to each other take a strictly vertical position. This is easy to do if you use a square. First saw through the grooves on one side, then turn the part over, fix and saw through the remaining bevels of the grooves.

Place the saw not on the marking line, but close to it on the falling out section of wood. Check from time to time on both sides of the board to see if the saw is pointing correctly or if the kerf needs to be corrected.

The grooves are cut with a chisel, which should be kept strictly vertical. In this case, the position of the part itself should be horizontal. It is possible to more accurately guide the chisel when another board is fixed on top of the part, the edge of which runs along the line marking the depth of the grooves.

First, the grooves are processed with a chisel on one side of the part. After the notch is made about half the thickness of the board, it is turned over and the processing of the grooves is completed. This method avoids cracking of the board, as well as inaccuracies in the processing of grooves.

Fix the part so that the marking lines are in a strictly vertical position. Check with a square.

To cut grooves with a chisel, fix the parts horizontally on a workbench. The part must not slide.

Sew only sides with the same slope. Turn over and secure the part, saw through the other sides.

Thorns

Experienced carpenters prefer to make tenons first and then cut grooves on another board. But you can do differently: use the ready-made grooves in order to outline the spikes on another board.

At the same time, it is also recommended to cover the end side with chalk so that the marking lines are not lost on a dark tree with eye-catching growth rings. The latter must be carried out very accurately. To do this, you can use an awl or a well-sharpened pencil.

Wrap Markup Lines

The marking lines from the end side of the board to the front and back surfaces are transferred strictly at right angles to the end. The length of the spikes depends on the thickness of the grooved board. These lines must also be perfectly accurate. It is better to mark the depth of the spikes not using a board with grooves, but by measuring the length of the spikes from the end edge, transfer these dimensions to the corresponding part. Otherwise, the spikes may be longer than necessary.

When marking out, keep in mind that the front side should be the best side of the board, and the marking lines should be as accurate as possible.

It is advisable to cover the highlander of dark wood parts with chalk so that the marking lines are better visible, and the cuts are more accurate.

Compound

To cut thorns into the parts, it is again firmly clamped, but this time the position of the board should be strictly vertical, like the cuts, which are only slightly beveled in a different plane, now to the left and then to the right.

Fixing a part

To make cuts, the saw is also installed close to the marking line on the falling out section of wood. After completing the work with the saw, the part is fixed on the workbench in a horizontal position and proceeds to processing the intermediate sections between the spikes with a chisel. As in the case of grooving, the notch is made only in half the thickness of the board, after which the part is turned over and the "excess" wood is removed from the opposite side. In this case, you can slightly correct the cuts if there is more than necessary between the wood marking lines.

First make cuts only on the left or right side of the cleats, then parallel cuts on the other side.

After removing the intermediate sections between the cleats, carefully trim the cuts with a chisel.

Gluing

Before applying the glue evenly and in a thin layer to all the spikes and grooves, lightly sand the surfaces to be bonded with sandpaper, without rounding the edges. Then try joining the pieces without glue. You will immediately see if they fit together and what else can be fixed.

Carefully join the boards so that the spikes and grooves do not split. Be aware that grooves are especially prone to cracking.

The glue is applied evenly in a thin layer over the entire surface of the thorn. To do this, use the spout of a bottle of glue or a thin brush.

Joiner's putty will help correct mistakes

With the perfect connection of the spikes and grooves, all butt joints are very tight, without the slightest gaps, which not only reduce the strength of the connection, but also spoil the appearance of the product. However, even experienced carpenters do not always achieve perfect results, so you should not be discouraged if the connection in some places needs to be corrected.

Proceed as follows. Spread a plastic film under the workbench and shake off the sawdust on it. Use sawdust and glue to make a joiner's putty, which will help you make small adjustments.

Although ready-made joiner's putties and mastics of all kinds of colors are on sale, homemade putty has advantages: it includes sawdust of the wood with which you are currently working, that is, this putty will fully match the tone of your product.

It is necessary to apply the putty carefully, in small portions, filling only the gaps. It is better to compact and level the filled areas with a chisel blade rather than a spatula.

Homemade putty will help you fix errors such as chipped chips or inaccuracies.

Sample

Wedge shaped pins can be quickly and accurately cut with a cutter using a special drill bit and template. In this case, in the course of one working operation, two parts are processed at once, installed with a slight offset to each other. True, their connection is noticeably different from the dovetail connection made in the traditional way, since when machining parts, all the pins and grooves are the same. For this reason, the connection cannot be considered decorative, but it is also beautiful in its own way, and most importantly, very reliable. The distribution of pins and grooves in such a connection depends on the size of the cutter used.

You can quickly cut thorns with a cutter if you use a special drill bit.

This is how a template is used for cutting thorns with a cutter fixed in a drill.

The reliability and aesthetics of complex structures made of wood largely depends on the correct choice of the method of connecting its component parts. This is especially true for frame products, load-bearing structures, where safety parameters come to the fore.

A high-quality connection of wooden parts is a guarantee of durability, the basis for an attractive appearance of a product, an indicator of the skill and professionalism of a carpenter and joiner.

Selecting the type of connection

In general, there are a huge number of types of joints of wooden blanks, so you can only talk about some of them, the most common.

One of the easiest ways to build up a wooden part (timber, log, board), to increase its width, is an end connection. There are several options for its implementation. A simple and functional half-thickness (half-tree) method is often used. Depending on the expected load on the part, the cut can be flat or oblique. In some cases, the joint is strengthened with curly cutouts - locks. This type of connection prevents stretching, twisting, bending. So the timber is spliced together for the purpose of lengthening.

The creation of volumetric frames or timber frames requires reliable connections at various angles. In this case, it is rational to use a thorn-groove or thorn-eye connection. The nodes at the junction of the parts withstand the load of displacement, bending and compression. If the structure requires high tensile strength, the cutouts are trapezoidal.

Additional connections of frame products, which impart rigidity to the structure, are implemented using T-shaped or cruciform connections. The main stress at the joints is compression, displacement and rupture. In special cases, the structure is additionally reinforced with metal corners, screws or nails.

It is convenient to use a special box groove to connect the boards to each other in box structures at right angles. As the name implies, this method is often used to create three-dimensional structures, including furniture boxes. A well-made box joint looks monolithic, has an attractive appearance and can withstand impressive loads. When creating wooden furniture, they often use a connection on dowels, dowels and dominoes (when the groove has an oblong shape, as opposed to a round dowel).

Spike connection (spike-groove)

The simplest and one of the most reliable is the tongue-and-groove connection. It is widely used in joinery. In a similar way, wooden parts of window frames are assembled into a single whole, a variety of cabinet furniture parts, plywood sheets are made. The essence of this method is that a spike is made at the end of one part to be connected, which is inserted into the groove of the other part and fixed in it.

For work, it is convenient to use a special lamellar cutter; in the absence of one, you can get by with a simple hand tool. You will need:

hand-held shank saw with a fine tooth;
electric or hand drill;
several chisels of different widths;
sandpaper;
measuring tool, square and pencil.

First, the workpieces are marked out. The parameters of the spike and groove depend on the parameters of the wooden parts and the configuration of the product, however, it is worth considering a few general recommendations.

Important! The thickness of the spike should be about a third of the thickness of the part, the width should be 70-80% of the width, the length should be equal to the thickness of the workpiece to be joined.

The groove parameters must also meet these criteria. In any case, it is important to ensure that the dimensions of the tongue and groove are the same. The parts should be connected easily, without pressure, but not fall out under their own weight. There should be no backlash, cracks and distortion.

The groove is cut first, this sequence is caused by the fact that the tenon is much easier to fit under the groove than vice versa. With the help of a saw, cuts are made, excess wood is removed with a drill, the bottom of the groove and the walls are leveled with chisels.

In most cases, only wood glue is enough to fix the parts; screws or nails will help to ensure maximum strength.

Half-tree connection

Quite often, in carpentry, various options for half-wood joints (simple or straight lock) are used. This type of assembly of wooden structures is characterized by ease of manufacture and high reliability. There are the following varieties:

cross connection;
half a tree - dovetail;
gusset;
on a mustache;
splicing in half a tree.

The first two methods are used to connect parts that intersect at right angles. Particularly popular is the dovetail, in which the shape of the neckline is a trapezoid and the sides are not at right angles. The slot of the lock expands slightly from the end, providing a more secure fit. It should be noted that a tenon joint can also be called a dovetail if the tenons are cut in the form of trapezoids.

The second and third modes form a complete corner. Splicing is used if it is necessary to increase the length of the workpiece.

How to make a cross connection

One of the simplest is the cross connection. It is distinguished by its simplicity of manufacture, even a novice carpenter can master its wisdom. The work is done in the following order:

markup is done. The parts to be joined are superimposed on each other. Use a ruler to draw a cut line. A thickness gauge is used to mark the thickness;
the first part is clamped in a vice. With a hand saw, carefully, along the lines, a cut is made to the mark left by the thickness gauge. The workpiece turns. The second cut is made;
the workpiece is removed from the vise. With the help of a sharp chisel and a wooden mallet, part of the wood is removed between the cuts;
the second part is processed;
the planes are leveled with sandpaper or an abrasive bar.

Now you can dock wood pieces. The connection must be tight, without backlash and gaps. If the product is one-piece, the joints are coated with wood glue, the structure is additionally reinforced with screws.

Forming corners on the mustache

One of the best ways to create corners of various volumetric products is a mustache joint. It allows you to create a monolithic structure, hide the fibers of the end, thereby providing an attractive look. This method is suitable for a wide variety of products, but is most often used for the manufacture of frames and cabinet furniture parts.

To create a connection in each of the wooden parts, cuts are made at an angle equal to half the angle at which the blanks meet. Most often, this angle is straight, therefore, the cuts are performed at 45 degrees, however, the angle can vary widely. The work is performed according to the following algorithm.

First, the details are marked. It is important not to forget that the markings are carried out along the long side, otherwise you may not guess with the dimensions.

On the edges to be connected, draw a line at the required angle. With a combined square, the markings are transferred to each side of the workpiece. Then a cut is made, for which it is better to use an electric miter saw, but you can also work with a hand tool. When working with a hacksaw, it is important to control the cutting angle; it will be useful to use a bar as a guide.

Finished parts are applied to each other, checking the accuracy of the fit. Irregularities will have to be smoothed out with a hand plane, to bring the angle with the help of a sandpaper. Joiner's glue is applied to both surfaces, and the product is fixed with the help of clamps. Additional strength can be achieved with studs. When working with a hammer, it is important to control the force of the impact so that the workpieces do not move.

Particularly critical connections are reinforced with bars that are glued into the inner corner. A joint that will not be visible can be additionally reinforced with a metal square.

As a result of well-done work, you will get a perfect seam. If a small gap has formed, then it can be hidden by straightening the adjacent wood fibers using a smooth cylindrical surface. To do this, use the stem of an ordinary screwdriver.

Thorn in the eyelet

Corner and T-shaped (example: T-shaped connection of a window frame) intersections are conveniently performed using the tongue-and-groove method. In this case, the eyelet is made at the end of the vertical part, the cuts for the thorn are made in its horizontal component.

Work begins with marking the eyelet. The thickness of the workpiece is divided by three. With a thin hacksaw, cuts are made to a depth equal to the width of another workpiece. With the help of chisels, excess wood is removed, the walls of the eyelet are leveled with sandpaper.

The second workpiece is marked out. The width of the tenon must be equal to the width of the first workpiece, the thickness must be equal to the thickness of the tenon. The cuts are made with a hand hacksaw, the depth and angle of inclination are carefully controlled. The excess is removed with a chisel.

The final finishing in thickness is carried out using sandpaper. The parts should be connected with light effort and not disintegrate under their own weight.

Thorn in the socket

A more complex connection is the tenon-to-socket method. It requires more skill, but is much more reliable and durable. The scope of use is the same as in the previous case, namely, T-joints. The difference between this method is that the spike is made at the end of the vertical part, and a socket is cut out in the body of the horizontal part.

This is one of the most common furniture connections. Distinguish between connection with a through thorn and a blind. The difference is that in the first case, a through socket is cut, in the second, a slot is made to a certain depth.

Features of Japanese joinery

Japanese craftsmen have reached unprecedented heights of carpentry. Using traditional techniques, combining different types of joints, they create precise and reliable joints without the use of nails or other fasteners. The joining of various wooden parts is carried out solely due to the frictional force.

The reliability of these connections is based on an accurate cut. Perfectly matched lock lines on both mating parts create a connection with impeccable precision. Complex configurations of locks require a lot of experience, knowledge and ability to own the tool, but if you wish, you can learn all this.

Pulling planks together

High-quality wood is expensive, it is not always possible to buy a good board with the required parameters, and it is not always necessary. To make, for example, a tabletop, it is not at all necessary to look for a board as wide as a table, having the skills of carpentry, you can create an ideal wooden canvas with the necessary parameters.

There are many options for rallying. A board with a spike and a groove, the so-called lining, is widespread. It allows you to create even large wooden surfaces. A simplified version of it is often used - a board with a quarter joint.

Rallying on a smooth puffer (butt)

The easiest way that does not require additional elements. The side edges of the boards are planed, it is better to do this in pairs, clamping both adjacent boards in a vice and at the same time processing them. This will create a precise surface on which the unevenness of one board will be compensated by the unevenness of the other. Both boards are coated with glue and fixed until it hardens completely.

Merging of load-bearing elements

There are several ways to lengthen (build up) a board that is part of the supporting structure. The simplest and most reliable is a half-wood connection with subsequent overlay on the junction of the reinforcing strips. Non-critical areas can be reinforced with plywood.

The same method is used to join the boards at different angles. Precisely made cuts of the articulated parts make it possible to do without reinforcing linings, it is enough to fix the boards at the junction with screws.

Cutting without residue means that the laid logs will form an even corner, their ends will not protrude beyond the structure, a separate type of it is a warm corner. The cut with the remainder, in turn, means that an interlacing of protruding ends will form at the corners of the building. The second method is more costly in terms of the amount of material, but the building retains heat better and is more stable.

There are various ways to connect wood parts, the ability to determine the optimal one for a particular type of work will significantly diversify the range of products that a master can make. A correctly chosen method will provide an attractive appearance to the product and guarantee the reliability of the volumetric structure.

Dovetail, detachable spike connection (trapezoidal grooves) used in mechanical engineering and joinery for reliable fastening of parts to each other. In this material, we will consider the manufacture of devices that facilitate the production of grooves in a tree using a hand mill.

Diy wood router accessories

The machine itself is a very ancient invention of mankind, descriptions of the principles of milling appeared in the 16th century, and the prototype of the machine was the invention of Leonardo da Vinci, who proposed rotating a round file to increase the processing of a product, which can be considered the first analogue of a cutter.

And already the American inventor Eli Whitney, over the years from 1765 to 1825, brought to mind all the scattered attempts to create a full-fledged machine, for which he is rightfully considered the creator of the first milling machine, although not all scientists agree with this statement.

And since the machine has such ancient roots, there are a great many adaptations for the manufacture of various parts, it is not possible to describe them all in the light of this material, and therefore we will consider only some of them, in my opinion, the most important and useful.

Universal joint for tongue and groove connection

factory plate for making a thorn-groove connection

It is used with a router to cut the corresponding grooves and tenons, it is installed in a vice, and the part is pressed with a clamp to the device. Usually sold in stores.

connection appearance

Consider devices for milling grooves

Saw out the top - a tabletop made of 18 mm plywood 40 cm long and wide enough to cut the thickest workpiece you plan to dowel.

Cut out two 5x10 cm bars by sawing them off the same length as the top. In the future, the bars will play the role of pressing the workpiece and centering it relative to the groove in the table top. To prepare the top, draw a line in the center of the top, then mill a groove along the line at one end.

schematic representation of a tooling

note

The indentation should be the same width as the copying ring that you will use with your router bit. The indentation must be long enough to match the length of the longest slot you are about to cut.

Then, mill two adjustment slots perpendicular to the center line. Finally, drill an inspection hole between these two slots. To assemble the entire structure, screw the bolts into the jaws and secure the top to the bars with wing nuts and washers.

To use our equipment, draw a groove on the workpiece and mark a center line on it. Loosen the thumbs and place the workpieces between the bars so that the center line connects with the top line of the fit, check that the edge of the workpiece is opposite the top edge.

Pinch the lambs. Align the router bit to one end of the groove drawing, then mark the construction lines on the top of the table along the edge of the router base.

How to properly work with a thorn groove rig

Repeat this one more time to mark the lines at the other end. Mill the groove starting at the bottom of the cut by aligning the router base with the first reference line and stop milling when the insert reaches the second reference line.

Let's make a device for making thorns with our own hands

Product for making thorns

Made of wood and plywood, the jig shown above can cut rectangular tenons with two shoulders. The object to be processed is located with the front surface below the jig, while the router moves along the stop from above, removing the excess in two passes.

The product consists of two parallel base bars, a stop and a stop - all made of wood of the same thickness as the part, in this case from 25x75mm bars, as well as the top surface and support made of 18mm plywood.

Base bars should be approximately 400 mm long; Cut the top surface of the plywood about 200 x 250 mm and screw it to the blocks as shown in the figure. Screw the stopper at the ends of the base bars along with the support. Place the stop approximately 25mm from the end of the top surface.

cut a thorn with a device

Countersink holes for all screw heads and make sure all corners are square. Drill an inspection hole in the top surface to accurately position the workpiece exactly on the markings.