How to assemble a table book a4. Table book do-it-yourself drawings and diagrams. What kind of wood to make a table book

Details
The small dimensions of the apartments force their owners to use functional furniture in everyday life that does not take up much space. Since the time of stagnation, based on such considerations, a book-table was developed, which, when assembled, practically did not take up space in the apartment, and if necessary, could easily turn into a huge table that easily accommodates many guests. Thanks to this feature, the book-table won wide popularity and people's love, and, perhaps, this attribute of furniture was inherent in almost every family.

Decades have passed, and a folding table-book continues to be in demand in modern apartments. Currently, it is not a problem to purchase such a table; furniture manufacturers offer various models and types for every taste.
Nevertheless, making a table-book with your own hands allows you to independently choose not only the material for its manufacture, taking into account its characteristics, the color of interest and suitable fittings, but it will also cost several times cheaper than buying finished product, and will save up to half of its cost.

Where to start.
First of all, it is necessary to dwell on the choice of the type of table-book that you want to make, determine its size and shape. It is advisable to depict your desire on paper in the form of a product design drawing.
There are many options for models and varieties of such transformer tables, and everyone has the right to choose the option that is best suited for themselves. We will further consider in more detail the issue of manufacturing such a table in its two main versions:
- thin table-book - the most economical option a table that can be used while traveling;
- a regular table-book - designed for use in one place.
So, we decided on the type of table, now preparation follows necessary tool and choice of material used. If everything is clear with the first one (you will need a standard set of drill, screwdriver, tape measure, construction angle in such cases), then the second should be discussed in more detail.

The choice of material.
As a rule, laminated chipboard is used to make a table, but since this material is considered toxic, it is best to make a table-book using arrays of natural wood. Although such production would require more costs and will be more expensive, but at the same time it has a number of advantages associated with the characterizing properties various breeds tree.
It is difficult to give specific advice on choosing a particular type of wood for making a table, since everyone is repelled, first of all, by their own taste and financial capabilities. However, let us dwell on the description of the most popular types of wood that can be used in the manufacture of a book table.
Pine.
The most optimal and economical option is the use of pine wood. The characteristic features of this material are its lightness and ease of processing, moisture resistance and resistance to temperature extremes, durability and massiveness. Its wood is virtually indestructible.
Nut.
A popular type of wood for making furniture, which has a beautiful pattern and a large colors, has a strong and dense, but easily processed wood. Walnut is malleable to chemical treatment and polishing, easy to stain, its wood does not warp and rot, so it is perfect for making a table-book especially for the kitchen.
Wenge.
Today, wood from wenge, a rare and valuable tropical tree, is one of the most sought after and popular in the manufacture of furniture. It is characterized by a rough texture and exquisite color, resistance to strong mechanical stress - shock and bending, natural resistance to fungus and insects. A product made using this material will look expensive and chic.
Oak.
Oak wood is considered the most the best option for making furniture. Having a beautiful texture and color, it is characterized by high strength and resistance to decay and the effects of various microorganisms. However, it also has two significant drawbacks - it is difficult to process and loses color over time.
“Note: regardless of the choice of wood used for the manufacture of the table, we recommend that such material be cut to specialized workshops, where it will be done more efficiently and quickly. And if the choice has stopped on the use of laminated chipboard, then it should be noted here that at home it is generally impossible to cut and cut out the necessary elements without chips.
We assemble a thin table-book with our own hands.
This type of table-book is a table with a top made of two shields, which, when assembled, occupies a place even with three table tops leaning against each other. The advantage of this type of table, of course, is that when assembled it takes up a minimum of space and it is quite possible to transport it with you, depending on the need. The disadvantage of such a table is its relative strength, and with an average effort on it, it may well fall apart.
Such a table is assembled from shields cut out of the same size, two of which are part of the tabletop, and legs with lapel corners are made from the third. Piano hinges should be used to connect the boards of the tabletop, when choosing which it should be taken into account that their thickness should not be greater than the thickness of the tabletop.

We assemble an ordinary table-book with our own hands.
For the manufacture of this type of table, in addition to the already cut three shields 800x300 in size (two of which serve as sidewalls and simultaneously play the role of legs, the third is the middle part of the tabletop) and two tabletops of the same size. We will need additionally a few wooden blocks (for the manufacture of three shelves with dimensions of 760x200, vertical - 78cm long and peppered - 74cm sliding racks).
The base of the table is assembled by connecting two side racks with shelves attached to them. At the same time, the shelves should be fastened with euro screws, using a level, and in a certain sequence: the first to be fastened is the top, the second is the bottom, and the third is the central one. The middle part of the countertop is attached to this base. It would be ideal to attach it using wooden dowels, for which you just need to drill two holes in the edges of the legs and table top (diameter 6mm and a depth of about 1.2cm), place four dowels (of the same diameter and 2.5cm long) in them, grease the holes and dowels with wood glue and connect.
Internal sliding racks should be connected to the table base according to the “thorn in the groove” principle, with gluing with carpentry glue and then fixing with self-tapping screws. We fix the legs with the help of piano hinges with the side end to the side stand. And finally, we fasten the two parts of the tabletop by screwing a long piano loop first to the end of the tabletop, and then to its middle part.
Considering these two simple designs tables-books, anyone who wants to craft will be able to create their own table, starting from their taste and design vision of such a product.

Table-book - very popular and universal view furniture. When folded, it takes few places, but if necessary turns into big table.

In the shops sold tables-books for every taste, but they are worth a lot. But such a necessary and practical thing can be made on one's own.

How to do table-book with your own hands and what for this necessary, read our article.

Types of tables-books

Exists many types of book tables, and each has its own pros and cons. Therefore, it is necessary decide which one is right for you.
Consider a few options:

Table-book with shelves
You may remember these tables from the time of USSR, but similar models issued and today.
consists of one narrow table-top-frame, which framed large on both sides, they fold out.
When assembled, they are reminiscent of nightstand.
You can open only one half.
Table-book with chairs
Internally space this model of the table-book is not occupied by drawers or shelves, there compactly accommodates several folding chairs. Very convenient for small apartments: a small cabinet can accommodate a whole dining room headset.

Book table with bar
An interesting option for the kitchen or living room - mini bar in the table. If necessary, drinks leave the cabinet in a roll-out basket.

Coffee table-book
It has standard table-book functions. They just make it less, to match the specifications Very comfortable and stylish item, perfect for any interior.

Those who prefer can choose with metal legs.

Note: book tables with drawers and shelves occupied by things are quite heavy, and you have to move them together. good decision- put the table on wheels. It can be easily moved indoors.

Table-book with cabinet

IN folded In this state, such a table resembles a cabinet with drawers and shelves. It is usually chosen mistresses. It has very conveniently store various things.

In addition, the table is perfect for a woman who is engaged in sewing, since it can be easily converted into working place (how to sewing table, read in).

Supports at the table-book can be wooden And chrome plated. They do not differ in quality, both supports sustainable. You can choose the option that best suits your interior.

Materials and tools

To do such a model of a book table must be cut from laminated Chipboard and fiberboard according to the indicated dimensions are as follows blanks:

In addition, for the manufacture of the table you will need:

You will also need these instruments:

pencil, roulette;
Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver;
hex key(4 mm);
jigsaw;
hammer.

Note: laminated particle boards are difficult to cut at home. You can draw up a cutting diagram and contact the workshop, where specialists will cut out the details of the table.

Stages of work

Step 1. Attach the tips to table sides(3, 4). Do it with nails. Fix them with screws (3.5 x 16) roller guides. Table sides (3, 4) connect from bottom(8) and tsarga (7). Use dowels and screw coupler. Make holes in the sidewalls and tsarga, insert there eccentrics.

Note: the arrow on the eccentric must be directed towards the end of the part.

Step 2 Eccentric rods spin into the holes on the worktop (1). Next, you need to fix with screws (4 x 16) card loops. Lower the tabletop onto the sides. This must be done so that the eccentric rods enter the holes in the ends of the sidewalls and the sidewall. On the sidewalls and the drawer, turn the eccentrics to 180 degrees clockwise.

Step 3 On the retractable sidewalls (5), fasten tips with nails. Insert eccentrics into their holes. Do the same with mounting strips(6). Take the double sided eccentrics and insert them into ends mounting strips. You need to insert the long side. Rotate the cams 180 degrees clockwise.

Drill on mounting strips holes and insert dowels. The extendable table leg must be attached to the mounting plate. Rotate the eccentric 180 degrees clockwise. Use screws (4 x 16) to attach the card loops (5) to the mounting strips (6). Already mounted on mounting rails loops(3) screw to the side of the table (4).

Step 4 Paste shelf holders into the holes of the additional countertops. Additional screw tables to card hinges that are fixed on the main tabletop. The eccentric and screw tie must be closed plugs. Take the screws (4 x 16) and fix them with the counterparts of the four-hinged loops on the side of the table (3).

Attach to the door (10) four-hinged loops. Do it with the same screws. Screw the handle with M4 x 20 screws and hang the doors. Loop fasten fixing screws on the counterparts. Insert the shelf supports into the holes on the sides (3, 4). Place a shelf (9) on them.

Step 5 Need to collect boxes. Connect with a screw tie back wall drawer (13) with side walls (14). In holes on facade you need to twist the eccentric rods and insert the dowels. Connect facade box with side walls. This must be done in such a way that eccentric rods and the dowels entered the holes on the side walls.

Drawer bottom (14) insert into groove. Secure it with nails. On the sides of the drawer (6), fasten reciprocal roller guide parts. Need to do it back to back to the facade using screws (3.5 x 16). Attach with M4 x 20 screws pens.

How to make a table-book with your own hands, drawings and diagrams can be found in this video:

From this article you will learn how within a few hours you can build a table - a book.

And not a simple "table-book", which is sold in stores, but an improved one, devoid of minor and annoying flaws associated with jamming of the legs when the table is deployed.

So, my story will be about how to collect just such a "book":

The pictures below show how this table was designed by me on a computer before I thought of making it.

What is the difference between my table design and those that are sold in stores?

At first glance, nothing! My "table - book" performs the same functions as the one sold in the store.

BUT! My table, unlike the store, is made of better quality and it is pleasant to use it. And all due to the fact that the transformation mechanism has been slightly improved.

And now let's take a closer look at the design of this "book table" and pay attention to the fact that elementary and not at all expensive solutions make furniture furniture, not firewood!

In my design of the "table-book" as transformation mechanisms, I used the usual "butterfly" loops worth 5 rubles. a piece.

This loop is very small. Its size is only 45 mm. But at the same time, it is made of rather rigid and thick metal, unlike piano hinges. Particular attention should be paid to this when choosing loops.

These loops serve both to attach the retractable legs to the table and to open our “lid wings”.
This is the first nuance that I have changed. Usually, in factory models of “book” tables, a piano loop is used.
The second nuance lies in the design of the retractable legs themselves, which are not made in the usual way.

At both ends of the legs, I placed such "straight" wheels, costing 5 rubles. a piece.
Please note that the height of the wheel is 29 mm. We will need this size in the future in order to calculate the height of the legs.
Also pay attention to the design of the leg, which is made in the form of a narrow box, in which the top and bottom are SUPPLIED. It is important! And the racks are INSERTED. And in order for this “box-leg” to have rigidity, I added a stiffener in its middle.

And now let's look at the "table - book" upside down. He lies flat on the floor.

Pay attention to how the loops that hold our "spread wings" are located. When the legs move inside the table, the wheels do not cling to the hinges, they roll smoothly without obstacles on the surface of the table, thereby ensuring smooth opening of the legs.
And as you remember, at the lower ends of our legs, there are also wheel supports that roll on the floor at the time when we open or close these legs.

In this picture (without the table top), I circled the wheels in red ellipses. To better see where they should be.

Actually, this is the whole secret of the design, and everything else is a detail ...

Sketch

The assembly of any furniture begins with the development of a sketch. I drew this sketch to scale. To have a complete picture of what I can do.

This option suits me. And I start detailing the product.
But before detailing the product, you need to know its external dimensions and, based on these data, we can proceed to detailing.
Having printed a sketch of the product on paper, we put down the dimensions. Further, I will lead the story, based on these dimensions:

From this figure, we see that the height of the table should be standard - 750 mm.
The width of the table will be 800 mm. The length of the tabletop in the unfolded state will be 1450 mm, and when folded, such a table will occupy a little more than 250 mm.

Now let's list what components it is assembled from:

table cover, consisting of three parts;
sliding legs - 4 pieces;
main support.

Immediately drunk all the accessories that we need in order to assemble the table.

1. Butterfly loops - 16 pcs.

2. Straight rollers - 8 pcs.
3. Self-tapping screws 4 * 16 - 100 pcs. For attaching hinges and rollers.
4. Confirmate 75 * 5 - 45 pcs.
5. Corners - 4 pcs. For attaching the tabletop to the legs.

6. Adjustable feet- 4 things. I'll talk about them a little later.

I listed all the fittings in order to know in advance what fittings will be used and what size each of the elements will have. This is done in order to correctly calculate the detailing for our product, and not make a mistake anywhere! You can see all sizes in the pictures.

Detailing

So let's go. We start with the tabletop.

Our table cover will have the following dimensions:

800 x 600 -2 pcs. Wide lids.
800 x 250 - 1 pc. Narrow lid.

OK! Dealt with the lid. Everything is simple here.
Next, we must calculate the main support, not forgetting our sliding legs.

I marked the following details in blue numbers:
1. Racks of the main support.
2. Ribs.

We calculate racks 1

We set the total height of the table to 750 mm. Therefore, having drawn such a sketch, it is clear to us that the top cover is 16mm, and at the bottom to the uprights, we screwed adjustable supports, the height of which is 10mm.
Rack height = 750-16-10=724 mm.
The width of the support should be made the same size as the uppermost cover. Take it as an axiom! Otherwise, it will turn out "clumsy". Checked! Its width will be 250 mm.

Table racks will have a size = 724 x 250 - 2 pcs.

Calculate stiffeners 2

Look at the picture. I decided to indent the racks, from the edge of the countertop inward by 30 mm. In how difficult it was to express the idea: o) I hope, nevertheless, that you understood what I meant.

Therefore, the length of the ribs = 800-16-16-30-30=708 mm.

The width of the ribs should be such that I can accommodate the retractable legs in the remaining distance. Therefore, I left 70 mm on each side for this matter, and I planned to make the legs themselves 60 mm wide. I'll have 10 mm left just in case. A gap never hurts.

So, the width of the stiffeners will be equal to 250-70-70=110 mm.

The size of the stiffeners = 708 x 110 - 3 pcs.

I have already measured them. We look.
The total height of the leg should be 734 mm. This is clear. I explain. The total height of the table is 750 mm, minus the top cover 16 mm. It turns out 734 mm.
From this height we subtract the height of the two "straight" wheels 734-29-29 = 676 mm. This turned out to be the height of the chipboard structure.
I have already drawn your attention to the fact that this design has inset racks.
Therefore, we calculate the height of the racks 676-16-16 = 644 mm.
Rack size = 644 * 60 - 8 pcs. Because we have four legs!

Fine. Now we have one question left - what size to make the width of the legs?
To do this, I drew these pictures for you. Side view and top view. The top view shows how the leg opens and how the loop attaches to it.

As you remember, internal distance between the racks we got 708 mm.
I leave 7 mm for the hinge gap in the closed state. Let's leave 15 mm for the gap between the racks themselves.

Calculate the size of the horizontal overlay bar:
708-7-7-15= 679
679/2=340 mm.

Width of horizontal bars:
340*60 - 8 pcs.

It remains for us to calculate the stiffener, which we placed in the retractable leg. This is done very simply. We will take the same width as in the previous stiffeners - 110 mm. And the length of the rib will be equal to 340-16-16=308 mm.

Rib in sliding leg

308 x 110 -4 pcs. Four legs, four ribs!

That's actually all. All details are ready! It remains only to collect everything, twist and table - the book will be ready!

Table assembly

1. We collect all the legs. And we fasten loops to them.

2. We collect the main support of the table. And nail to the bottom of the legs.
My legs are 10mm high. If you purchase legs of a different size or refuse to use them at all, then the size of the main legs (1) will need to be changed to a larger size.

3. We turn the table over with the lid down, bring the tabletop down, and evenly in the middle we apply and fasten the hinges.

4. On an inverted table, we fasten the legs.

5. In those places where the legs reach their extreme position, being in the open state, I screwed these "things" to fix the leg in the extreme position.

That's actually all.

Detailing

1. 800 x 600
2 pcs. Wide lids
2. 800 x 250
1 PC. Narrow lid
3. 724 x 250
2 pcs. Racks of the main support
4. 708 x 110
3 pcs. Stiffening rib!
5. 644 x 60
8 pcs.
6. 340 x 60
8 pcs.
7. 308 x 110
4 things. Four legs - four ribs!

Cost price

Chipboard 2.4 m2 (2.4 * 190 rubles) = 456 rubles.
Edge 30 m.p. (30 *, 1.5 rubles) \u003d 45 rubles.
Butterfly loops 16 pcs. (16*5 rub)=80 rub.
Straight rollers 8 pcs. 8*5 rub = 40 rub.
Self-tapping screws 4 * 16 100 pcs (100 * 0.2 rubles) \u003d 20 rubles.
Confirmat 75 * 5 - 45 pcs. (45 * 0.5 rubles) = 23 rubles.
Corners 4 pcs. 10 rub.
Adjustable feet 4pcs. 20 rub.
Plugs 45 pcs. (45 * 0.1 rubles) \u003d 5 rubles.
Total: 700 rubles.

Let's just say, provided that two such tables come out of one sheet of chipboard, it turns out that the total cost for two tables of books will be 1400 rubles. If we order this order to be cut on the side, we will get the cost of two tables 1700 rubles.

What is the price for this table?
I valued it at 1600 rubles. At what price you value it - decide for yourself.
To assemble such a table by gluing the edge on the finished parts, you need to spend no more than 3-4 hours.

Also, this table can be used as a bonus to your products, if in the manufacture of some large product, you will have material left.
This table, as I already figured, takes a little less than half of a standard chipboard sheet measuring 3500 * 1750mm.

But what would happen if all the details of the table were laid out on a sheet of chipboard measuring 3500 * 1750 mm.

This cutting sheet clearly shows that two full-fledged tables can be made from one sheet of laminated chipboard and some more shelves, stools, and other trifles can be made from the remaining material ...

More furniture making tutorials can be found at

I have been planning to make such a table for a long time.

The most acute question was about its design. I have not found anything on the Internet about book tables. I guess I didn't search well...

IN furniture stores reviewed, measured and sketched a lot of options.

Didn't want to bother using wooden parts(boards, bars, etc.). Here I mean that the table had to be made exclusively from laminated chipboard (LDSP), which was available.

Design

I settled on this design. View from above:

Liked the compactness interesting solution along the side part.

In the store, however, the length of part 3 (see the sheet sawing pattern) was shorter - about half the width of the table. I lengthened it so that the fulcrum for the hinged part was a little further. So more reliable and stable.

How to cut a sheet?

The sheet is cut according to the following scheme:

1,2 - Blanks of parts of the skeleton, vertical and horizontal. 3 - blanks of vertical parts folding legs table. 4 - blanks of horizontal crossbars of folding table legs. 5 - preparation of the tabletop.

Basic scheme!

In the process, I added 1 mm for each cut.

It should be noted that it is better to cut circular saw(even better - on the machine). Because the jigsaw file “takes away” (this can be clearly seen here)

But on this moment it's not critical. Where it is quite critical - I will explain below.

Minor irregularities from the “festivities” of a jigsaw file can be corrected with a large sandpaper. Pre-wrapping it with a small wooden block.

I warn you! In the process of sawing, the jigsaw makes small chips on the edge of the laminate on the upper side.

First I sawed parts 1-4. And he did the right thing! For the unsawn tabletop came in handy a little later as an intermediate convenient working surface(here I, of course, proceed from my realities - studio apartment with a 6-meter kitchen).

Detail matching

Black numbers - numbering according to the scheme of sawing the sheet,

Green numbers are from the Materials and Tools list.

Preparing parts for assembly

Here comes the critical moment.

When parts 1-4 are sawn in length, care must be taken to ensure that their ends are strictly perpendicular to the side surfaces.

This is done so that in the future the designs of the skeleton and legs do not become like a propeller.

Edge tape

The edging tape is selected to match the chipboard tone. In my case - Buk Bavaria.

Attaches with an iron. I set the iron to "deuce".

The diagram has been taken from the packaging.

The excess is trimmed with a clerical knife. The edges are processed with sandpaper stretched over a small wooden block.

With an edge tape, you can paste over all the ends, or you can only those that will be visible.

Assembling the table base and legs

In principle, there is nothing complicated here.

We put the processed parts (1-2 or 3-4) on the table (horizontal crossbars (2 or 4) rest against the wall, vertical bar (1 or 3, respectively) rest against the ends of the crossbars), put a right angle between them and drill through with a drill with a diameter 5 mm (depending on the size of the euro screw). The main thing is to the entire depth of the screw and at a right angle.

Then we drill about one and a half centimeters with a 7 mm drill. If desired, we additionally countersink (to “drown” the screw head).

Euroscrews:

After final assembly screws are capped.

Phillips and hexagon screw caps are different! Check it out in the store.

Assembling the structure

Previously, the central hinges (7) were modernized - additional holes were drilled. For reliability.

Let's roll the base to the side. Let's try the legs. We outline the places for fastening the loops.

We fasten the loops first to the legs, then - in place - to the crossbars of the base.

We admire and ... unscrew! Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to fix the countertop.

table top

As you can see, part 5 consists of three parts.

First we cut out the central part. This should be done as carefully as possible - not only because of appearance. It is better to measure the width from the center so that there is a small margin for aligning the hinged parts. Treat the long ends of the central part with edging tape. On the width of the table, we do not touch this part yet.

Let's put it aside for a moment...

The two halves have two even edges (we carefully sawed them off!) - these are the edges that will then be attached with loops to the central part.

Now we line up the sides.

We fold the folding parts (like a sheet of paper). It is important here not to turn them over, that is, the front side of one part, when folded, should adjoin the front side of the other part.

What is it for?

In order for the folding parts to hang strictly vertically.

We get rid of the discrepancy, if there is one.

The photograph shows that the folded halves have a certain (here - 9 mm) discrepancy. By the way, in the top view you can clearly see how the jigsaw “walked”.

On the example of the far (according to the first photo) part:

We measure 5 mm from the bottom left, 9.5 mm from the top (5 + 9/2). We measure 9.5 mm from the bottom right, 5 mm from the top. We draw lines, check that the top and bottom between them have the same distance. We cut down.

Accordingly, we align the near part on the contrary.

Now, when applied to each other, the folding parts of the tabletop should converge at the bottom and on the sides.

We measure and saw off the folding parts in height. In the end, I got 63 cm. We round the corners with a compass. We cut down.

It remains to ennoble the edges of the countertop with an edge profile. Nobody is forcing you to do this, of course. You can walk with the same edge tape ...

Edge profile

Also selected to match the surface.

It is better to stick on liquid nails.

I glued on silicone - it does not hold well. Waited, however, one day. It may well be that the silicone did not completely set in a day. But he didn’t redo it and, just in case, grabbed the profile in several places with carnations.

Putting the table in place

Furniture manufacturers fix countertops with wooden dowels. But this requires high-precision equipment, which we initially do not have.

Therefore, I decided to use furniture corners (10), which have a fairly strong attachment. For reliability, the fastenings of two corners are located on the side parts of the base (1), and four more are evenly distributed along the upper crossbar of the base (2) in a checkerboard pattern.

Corner mounts are plastic bushings (there are also metal ones on sale), with a diameter of approximately 11 mm. They are driven or screwed into pre- drilled hole. Then a screw is screwed into the mount.

Can be installed on the floor. To try on the places for drilling the fastenings of the corners, it is necessary, first of all, to turn the central part of the table top face down.

We drill holes in the central part of the tabletop and in the base (diameter 10 mm, depth 11-12 mm), drive in the bushings, attach the base to the central part of the tabletop with the help of corners.