Splitting knife for circular. Sol for manual circular saw with their own hands - a patchwork blanket. Folds, grooves and studs

The most common injuries when working on a circular sawmaker occur as a result of "reverse departure" of the workpiece. Now we will tell about how this happens and how to avoid the emergence of such situations.

"Take care of hand, hay!" (c) Gennady Petrovich Kotodoev

In most carpentry shops, the circularopile machine occupies one of the central places. Or, as they are often referred to as the circular, this is without anything, no woodworker fulfilling its projects. But at the same time, it is one of the most dangerous machines in the workshop. Often, the circular was operated with violation of safety vehicles: no protection housing saw Disc, pushing the blanks without the use of automatic feeders and special pushers, properly not a tuned saw node and parallel stops. Referring to this periodically reverse departure of the workpiece. You can not rarely hear from the experienced and newly-made stainars: "I knocked out the workpiece, I almost killed. Higher as a bullet near the temple. Flying through the whole shop!"

Reverse blank departure is the case when the workpiece suddenly flies towards the operator on high speed. At the same time there are two most common types of injuries:

Breeding chest or head flying blank. Well, if you manage to get rid of light blast or bruise
Brush injuries or finger phalanges due to hitting the rotation zone cutting tool. A person does not have time to react to return and the finiteness of the inertia falls on the saw blade. Ripped wounds, crushing bones, sliced \u200b\u200bphalanges - Here is the sad result of criminal carelessness

Sad outcome of criminal carelessness

Ripped wounds, crushing bones, sliced \u200b\u200bphalanges. Do you need it?

Three still there. You can live

Forewarned is forearmed

The departure of the workpiece occurs in several cases. First, when the harvesting force is not enough to parallel to the eagle. Secondly, when the workpiece changes the position relative. In both cases, part of the workpiece falls on the back of the saw and rapidly flies towards the rotation of the disk, that is, it is in your direction.

Let's consider a few simple ways Avoid knocking out the workpiece and finish working day as whole and unharmed.

1. Use the split knife

The proplining knife is metal platemounted in the plane of the saw blade in order to prevent the rear of the back of the saw disk in the sawn material in the inspection of the internal stresses of wood or when the billet from the axis of the saw disk is shifted. How properly the thickness of the proppant knife is equal to the thickness of the teeth disc saw or slightly more.

Provinting knife

2. Use the divider insertion

Be sure to use plywood, wood or plastic insert. It sets on the same level with a work desk of a circular saw and serves to minimize the distance from the body of the saw blade. Thus, neither the blank, nor trimming will be tightened with a saw below the table level and will not be released the part towards the operator.

Soft plastic

3. Always use fixtures for transverse cuts.

Another way to avoid the reverse departure of the workpiece is the use of fixtures for transverse cuts or permeaghous carriages. This will allow you to fix the workpiece by clamps if necessary. Also your hands will be on safe distance From the saw disk. Well, the last bonus is always high quality and smooth cut without the risk of billet displacement relative to the saw axis. You can easily make this device yourself. And most machine tools are equipped with tables with "T" grooves for guides

Spend only 2 hours on the manufacture of carriages

4. Do not start working without a pusher

You simply must use the pusher for cutting. It is an inexpensive and simple device will reduce the risk of unpleasant situations during operation.

What could be easier?

5. Install the saw disk fencing housing

You will be surprised, but the protective casing is not an excess detail, which inexplicitly turned out to be included in the delivery of your machine. Right now remember where you thrust it, find and install on your machine! The use of this "unnecessary thing" will allow you to play the guitar in the future and on the piano, as well as fill the comments to this post by all your fingers))

We hope you take on the arms of these not cute advice. And however, you knew all this, but they were afraid to use in practice.

Emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Ideally aligning the saw relative to one of the edges of the table attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

To install on the table in general, any circular is suitable, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base - then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Call may crack.

There is another popular way to mount the circular to the table, not drilling holes at a base - attach it with the help of clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only me this method seemed not fairly correct in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation and I did not apply it.

Another important parameter manual Circular - This is the possibility of connecting the vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner - small wood dust rises into the air.

The disk was powered on the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (BOSH 160mm Wood Disk). The countertop reduces the depth of cut into 9 mm. The depth of the cut is exhibited on the circular. It is convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: Important! On a number of budget circulars can be so that the disk is under an invisible slope. And all the rods will be crowned. Be sure to check the tool as the disk to be under 90 degrees relative to the surface of the table. (It is possible to check the saw to check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk was not at a right angle and there is no possibility to set the perfect area angle - you can put on one side under the site a few strips of tin, seeking an ideal angle (you can puck under the screws that fastened the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table posted a sink for a saw that will now turn on the start button.

This is how the vacuum cleaner can be connected to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can cut. (Made in one evening and one morning).

To cut without a snap, of course you can, applying rails and clamps, but uncomfortable.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and leveling relative to them, can move along the saw disk. By pressing the rails of the rail, you can easily steal it exactly under 90 o. Thin wood can be put inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail as the sausage :) for example, chopped several pieces of different thickness.

Salazks solve only part of the tasks. For longitudinal sawing, you need a side stop.

From plywood glued the brackets that will cling to the edge of the table.

He joins in the edge by a dead grip.

Circular saw - a dangerous tool. So as not to unlock your fingers I made from waste furniture Shield Simple pusher.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and rails, furniture shield, Faneur. All these works have become much easier than I made it screaming with a manual circular saw.

In the future, I still refine this table:
- remission side focus for longitudinal sawing, so that, moving, he always remained a parallel disk
- put a removable split knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I will make a dust from the top of the table. (Now, when I drink, the disc throws me wood dust right in the face)
- Finishing an improved pusher. Already started to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about it in the future.

I will gradually implement it in the future, but for now I will work like this.

In this article we will tell about the receptions of the work with a tree for a domestic workshop. You will learn how to debug circular Machineso that it does not spoil the workpiece with a longitudinal cut. The article presents technical techniques and tricks when working with longitudinal billets.

The problem of huge wood solid rock (oak, beeza) when cut along the fibers on a circular saw, only grinding is solved. And this is an additional operation, and quite time consuming. The appearance of the subpalin is the correct sign of the wrong setup of the machine, while the overwhelled engine is suffering, the disk and the billet will deteriorate.

Most likely reasons for subpalin

Choir disc. Resin can be quickly removed special tool Or wash off the usual solvent (this is a little longer).
Switchless or broken disk attacks. They can be restored, replace or sharpe in a special workshop, but easier and faster replacing the disk on a new one.
Disame parallelism limiters.
Improper submission of the workpiece.
Constructive wood defects.

The first two reasons are eliminated relatively easily and quickly - by cleaning or replacing cutting cloth. Three others are more serious and then we will tell you how to cope with them.

Reception of the parallelism of the disk and the stop by handicrafts

Place the stop 100 mm from the disk.
Take a bit of 60-70 mm long and screw into the ends screw with a round head. This head, when the bar is pressed to the elbow, should be clinging for a disc tooth.
Mark this tooth marker.
Promote the workpiece with the screw to the other side of the disk and scroll through the disk itself until the marked tooth is equal to the screw.
The effort when the screw head of the screw should be the same at the beginning and at the end. This can be determined by rumor - the disk metal perfectly reproduces the oscillations. If the sound at the beginning and at the end is different - it is necessary to more accurately set the saw device according to the instructions (for different models Methods will be different).
Professional models, Saw which is still, have a workbench adjustment *. To do this, we need to weaken several bolts (which the workbench is fixed to the bed). Carpenter type machines provide accurate editing of the position of the saw unit.

* Meaning part of a stationary saw, which is also called a "saw table".

Accurate installation of parallelism using a clock indicator

It's more professional and accurate methodBut for it will require a special device - an HC-10 hour indicator. In this case, the reference point is the disk groove.

Install in the groove rail or bar.
Install ICH-10 between the rail and limiter. After that, reset the readings.
Using ICH-10, adjust the focus on instrument readings - the difference of readings should be zero.

As can be seen, this method is much faster and more accurate (the division price is 0.1 mm), but it is worth such a device about 20 y. e.

Cunning Disc Alignment

The saw device is always fixed into several bolts. Therefore, adjusting it, it is best to use one of them as an axis around which the whole mechanism or disk will move (per millimeters):

Select the "axial" bolt, based on the location of the fasteners of your saw.
Loosen it, and then tighten a little stronger manual tightening.
Gently loosen the remaining bolts to the backup.
Emboss the mechanism or disk in right position, focusing on the ICH-10 readings or fixtures for alignment.
Do not press on the part of the mechanism to move it, and tapping on the reliable parts - it will be more accurate.
After reaching the exact position, the first to tighten the "axial" bolt - so the setting will not betray.

This method is relevant for any stationary circular, saber or tape saws.

Knife for a crushing knife

The final operation at the exact setting of the machine will be checking and adjusting the proppant knife. This is a metal strip behind the saw blade, which opens the cut, preventing the clamp of the parts. It should be strictly vertical and parallel. Parallelism is checked regular rule. Some models for safety are installed clamping gear plates - they prevent the billet back (the disk rotates towards the operator). Their adjustment is reduced to check the spring effort.

Sometimes, when wood It has high density, the regular propagant knife is not enough - the hostile blank seeks to return to its original position and the clamp of the proplining knife occurs and the inevitable fasteners. The masters in this case use a simple solution that does not have analogs in simplicity and reliability: the usual pad wedge on the binding.

Wedge for circular on video

How to make a surfing wedge:

After passing the blank of the standard spacer knife, insert the wooden wedge into the cut.
Next, perform the full passage of the workpiece and fix the extreme position of the wedge.
Select a fixed point above the machine and pick up a leash in length from point to the wedge. It is advisable to use spring material.
Leash tie to a fixed point (details).
After full passage Wedge blanks will be removed from it, and stay on a leash.

For convenience when cutting a set of identical parts, you can adjust the length of the leash.

Proper billet feed

Predasted and spoiled blank - the easiest consequences of the wrong supply of the workpiece. Even well-exhibited knives and stops will not help if the workpiece is incorrect - it is very likely to break, jam, reverse move or uncontrolled billet jerk. Given the huge speed and strength circular sawEven the little light workpiece can cause injury to a person.

Rules for proper feed:

Vertical clamp. By no matter how if you did not start the workpiece, remember that it should be tightly pressed to the saw table at a distance of 30-100 mm from the disk.
Horizontal clamp. Tight contact with the limiter will provide a smooth course of the workpiece.
Create and control the workpiece with two hands. This rule follows from the first two - one hand presses to the table, the other to the limiter.
For small parts, make or purchase the pusher - it will help to avoid dangerous intimacy of the hands and saw disk.

Apply "clash-comb". This device is freely for sale (the price of 3 y. E.), Has many versions. It can also be made independently (especially if your circular is homemade) for specific sizes. To do this, you need to make a lot of propilov in Bruke and trim the "comb" at an angle of 75 °.

Of course, when working on machines should not be distracted or to make other operations parallel.

Designer wood defects

Usually, the defective wood is rejected during the selection. Working with such billets is fraught not only by subapalities (they will necessarily even at the exactly exhibited machine), but also injuries. In this case, the material can be clean, without rot and bitch.

The main signs of constructive defects:

Longitudinal curvature over the thickness of the workpiece. Masters call such blanks "Saber". If the curvature is small (the height of the deflection is up to 10 mm per 1 m), the workpiece can be squeezed when sawing. Billets are greater curvature rejected.
Longitudinal curvature in the width of the workpiece. National name - "Rocker". The rule is the same as with a "saber", but permissible deflection - 20 mm.
Tree fibers are not parallel to the workpiece. The most dangerous type of defect - there are significant internal stresses in the workpiece. When sawing, they are released and it can behave unpredictable. The only option to apply such a workpiece - to align it with a flight (mutual electrolake).

The first two cases can lead to subapalities, the latter - will definitely. Peeling wood sawmilling products will also have curvature and must be after installation in a library.

Conclusion

Timely checking the machine will save you from the unpleasant duty to remove the fiction and fell from the billets. Remember that all manipulations with the machine must be carried out after it is disconnected from the network.

When cutting the boards along the fiber of the disk sawdow, emerging from under the table, can raise the board up and with big powers Throw it towards the worker. To avoid this, you need to separately separate the board or not allow the teeth to the back of the disk saws to relate two sides of the board being sawn.

This can be achieved by means of a sword in the form of a sword installed behind a disk saw (Fig. 28). Thickness outside The propodent knife is 10% more cutting width. Gradually, the knife becomes thinner to the inside, i.e. in the direction of the teeth of the disk saw. Such a form of a splitting knife ensures the propulsion of the sawn material and protects it from discarding it in the opposite direction.

Fig. 28. Proprunting knife, fortified under the table: 1 - Wedge, 2 - Obeau, 3 - Galnik, 4 - Console of the square, 5 - disk saw, 6 - Nut, fixing the square, 7 - lamb.

The shape and dimensions of the proppant knife must correspond to the diameter of the disk saw, its height above the table, as well as the width of cutting. The proplining knife must be strengthened so that you can quickly and easily move it in horizontal and vertical directions. From the teeth saws, the knife must defend no more than 10 mm. The height of the knife from its lower edge should be 10 mm above the disk saw.

The top fence of the disk saw is used to protect the working hands from the collision with the teeth of the saw above the machine table.

Very practical and reliably, Simson's fence depicted in fig. 29.

The tube 3 is placed on the rack (not shown in the figure) and can move vertically and set the fencing to the appropriate height. A roller 5 is planted in the tube 3, which can move horizontally. It is fixed by the rope 4. The upper part of the disk saw is protected by a casing 6. To the front of this casing, the lever is mounted on the suspension, which can move roller 8 when connecting sectors 9, protecting the saws of saws. The back of the saw (broken teeth) is fencing two sectors 1. During operation, the front edge of the detail presses on the lever 7, which rises, takes it with its curved end roller 8, which is between the front sectors 9.

As the details are supplied, the roller 8 roll up the lever 7, and the front sectors 9 are easily and smoothly climb, opening the disk saw blade to the height corresponding to the thickness of the sawn part. The rear sectors 1 have a bottom of the teeth, which protects the sawn item from the discarding back.

The bottom fence of the disk saw is a suctionist (see Fig. 1), removing sawdust. It protects low part Disc saw (under the table).

If there are no draws, for example, in the case of a temporary installation of a saw, a disk saw is protected from below the fencing of sheet steel. At the same time, it is possible to remove the disk saw for a point and replacement. In the lower part of the fence, the corresponding hole is left to remove sawdust from under the working saw.