Drawing of fastening of the airboat engine. How to make an aero boat with your own hands. Homemade aero boats. "Bells and whistles" and accessories

Homemade Airboat

How to make homemade airboat... It should be noted that the power units of the deltalets in terms of power, reliability and coefficient useful action great for creating airboats, since the parameters of a motor with a propeller are no worse than those of traditional power units with a propeller. Moreover, a boat with an air propulsion system is not afraid of shallow water, thickets of reeds, sedges and algae.

In addition, the glider engine releases exhaust gases not into the water, like an outboard or stationary power unit of any boat (from the point of view of ecologists, this exhaust suppression method does not stand up to criticism!), But into the air. So, the airboat. The heart of its propeller engine is the "Whirlwind" outboard motor - a compact two-cylinder liquid-cooled engine with a capacity of about 25 hp. Unfortunately, its crankshaft speed is high to work in tandem with the propeller, so the motor is equipped with a three-v-belt gearbox with a gear ratio of 1.6. V-belts - "Zhiguli", from the "engine - pump - generator" system.

The driving and driven pulleys are machined from duralumin (D16T or AK4-1T) and, after fitting, are hard anodized. The drive pulley is riveted to the flywheel. To install the driven pulley on the engine, it is necessary to install a spacer plate made of steel sheet 5 mm thick on its front part, and mount the cantilever axle of the driven pulley on it. The pulley itself rotates on an axis, on two ball bearings 204 and one - 205. Dural spacers are located between the bearings.

The pulley is fixed on the axle with a retaining ring and a screw with a washer. The spacer plate is bolted to the engine crankcase and to the brackets, and the latter are installed on adapter sleeves, which are screwed instead of nuts onto the engine head mounting studs. To tension the belts, a mechanism is used, consisting of a sleeve welded to the spacer plate and a bolt with a nut. As already mentioned, the engine is cooled by liquid, using seawater supplied to the cooling jacket homemade pump, made on the basis of the impeller from the "Kama" electric pump.

For supporting optimal temperature engine (80-85 ° С) standard car thermostat... The engine is started with the help of a cord, for which a pulley is installed between the screw and the spinning wheel, around which the cord is wrapped before starting. The airboat propeller is wooden, monoblock, that is, made of a solid pine block. True, it is not easy to pick up such a bar without knots and oblique layers, and in this case it makes sense to glue the blank epoxy resin from carefully planed plates with a thickness of about 10 mm.

When selecting plates, you need to make sure that the layers of wood are located symmetrically relative to the gluing planes - this will save in the future air propeller from possible warpage. Propeller manufacturing begins with the preparation of templates - plywood or, better, duralumin, which are made according to a carefully executed plaza drawing on a 1: 1 scale. You will need the following templates: plan, side view (up to the axis of symmetry), as well as the upper and lower profiles of the screw. To begin with, the workpiece is planed from all sides in accordance with overall dimensions screw, after which the axial lines are applied to it and, using a template, the contours of the side view.

Then the excess wood is removed - first with a sharpened hatchet, and then with a plane and a rasp. Further, the workpiece is marked with the help of a plan template, which is fixed with a small nail in the center of the future screw, outlined with a pencil, after which the template is rotated 180 degrees and the planned projection of the second blade is marked. Excess wood is removed with a bow or fine-toothed band saw. The most important part of the job is to give the blades an aerodynamic profile. As you can see from the drawing of the screw, one side is flat and the other is convex.

In accordance with the position of the control sections on the workpiece, the places for installing the templates are marked, and semicircular chisel and a semicircular rasp breaks through the "beacons" - in accordance with the configuration of the upper and lower templates. The main tool for processing the propeller blades is a small ax made of good steel, sharpened literally to the sharpness of a razor. When removing wood, it is recommended to first make small overhangs - this will avoid splitting the workpiece. This is followed by preliminary processing of the workpiece with a plane and a rasp. This is followed by the final finishing in the slipway. The latter is a carefully planed board with a thickness of at least 60 mm, on which transverse cuts are made to a depth of 20 mm to install the lower templates of the rotor blade profile in them.

The center rod of the slipway is machined from steel or duralumin, its diameter must correspond to the hole in the screw hub. The rod is glued in the center of the slipboard strictly perpendicular to its surface. Further, the working surfaces of the lower templates are rubbed with a colored pencil or blue, the screw blank is put on the central rod and pressed against the templates - first with one blade, and then with the other. At the same time, traces of templates are printed on the workpiece in those places where they come into contact with the lower surface of the propeller.

"Soiled" places with a planer, plow, rasp or wooden block with the sandpaper glued to it, they are cleaned off, the workpiece is again placed in the slipway - and the processing of the propeller blades is repeated. When traces from a colored pencil are printed across the entire width of the blade, the processing of its lower surface can be considered complete. The upper part of the screw is processed in the slipway using the upper templates (they are also called counter templates). First, using a semicircular rasp, the blade is adjusted to the counter-templates (as the professionals say, counter-templates are planted), as a result of which the template and the counter-template should touch along the plane of the connector, tightly covering the blade itself.

Then the processed places are rubbed with a colored pencil and the zones between the control sections are processed. In this case, painting is necessary in order to exclude re-processing of the blade at the locations of the control sections. In this case, the correctness of processing is checked with a flat steel ruler applied to the one-percent points of adjacent sections. On a correctly made blade, there should be no gap between the ruler and the surface. If in the process of work the awkward movement of the tool led to the chipping of wood, this does not mean at all that the work is irreparably damaged. You can fix it with a putty mixed with epoxy glue and small sawdust

The finished screw is carefully balanced. This is best done by firmly inserting a metal roller into the center hole and placing the propeller on the balance rulers. If one of the blades turns out to be lighter, it is recommended to load it with lead, for which small strips of this metal are first glued onto it, and when the propeller is balanced, the strips are melted and poured into a mold, for example, into a segment steel pipe... The resulting rod (or rods) is riveted into a hole drilled in the place of the blade where the lead strips were glued.

The hole on both sides of the blade should be slightly countersunk. Finishing the propeller consists in pasting it with two layers of thin fiberglass, followed by sanding, final balancing, priming and painting with auto enamel. The body of a homemade airboat consists of two large parts - an upper and a lower one. It is better to start assembling it from the bottom. To do this, in accordance with the theoretical drawing of the hull and drawings, shaping frames are cut out of plywood with a thickness of 12 mm, and stringers and keels are cut from slats with a section of 20x20, 30x20 and 30x30 mm. The frame is assembled on a flat floor. The diametrical plane and the location of the frames are preliminarily marked on it. Frames are attached to the floor using wooden blocks and braces.

Adjustment of the longitudinal set rails is made "in place", the rails are fastened to the frames with epoxy glue with temporary fixation of the elements with a safety wire. Curved slats for the front of the frame are obtained by pre-steaming them in boiling water and fixing them with a wire on the frame. After the rails have dried, the latter are fixed on the frames with epoxy glue. After milling (leveling) the frame, the frames are filled with blocks of construction foam, which are fixed with the same epoxy binder.

After processing the foam surface (if necessary, it is putty on the already familiar composition of epoxy glue and sawdust), the body is pasted over with two layers of fiberglass, putty, polished and painted with auto enamels. From the inside, the foam is cut flush with the frames and is also pasted over with fiberglass. The manufacture of the upper part of the airboat is not much different from the lower one. True, the frame is assembled not from plywood frames, but from prepared curved slats, and not on the floor, but on the already finished lower part of the body.

The frame on which the engine motor mount is attached has an increased cross-section and reinforcement at the joints of the rails - plywood kerchiefs. The frame itself is attached to a cross-member made of a square steel pipe with a cross section of 40x40 mm and is fixed with braces made of pipes with a diameter of 22 mm. Forming is also carried out with the help of foam, followed by pasting with fiberglass. The door glazing is made of plexiglass 4 mm thick, the windshield is from the rear door of the Moskvich-2141 car. Part of the door itself became an element of the cockpit.

Airboat doors consist of timber frame and plywood sheathing. From inside and outside they are covered with fiberglass. Door hinges - homemade, overhead. In the ceiling of the cabin (or, if you prefer, the wheelhouse) there is a removable hatch cover made from a cut-out part of the roof. In the rear part of the airboat there are two keels that organize the air flow and, moreover, perform the function of protecting the propeller.

A home-made airboat is controlled using a steering wheel, on the shaft of which a steering drum is fixed, connected by a cable wiring with a traverse on the rudder box. Gas control - a lever located under the driver's left hand. The cockpit accommodates the passenger and driver's seats. The seat and backrest frames are glued from wooden slats and sheathed with 4 mm plywood. Pillows are made of foam rubber and artificial leather.
(Author: I. KHOROSHEVSKY)

Home-made cabin airboat with the Whirlwind-30 engine: 1 - glider body (upper part); 2 - door; 3 - engine hood; 4 - power plant; 5 - air whit; 6 - propeller keel guard; 7 - steering device; 8 - glider body (lower part).

Theoretical drawing of the lower part of the case.

Propeller pre-processing: A - marking the workpiece using the side view template; B - marking using a plan template; B - cutting of "beacons" and rough cutting of the blades; G - processing of the blades with a plane; D- processing with a rasp and sandpaper

Slipway for finishing propeller (0-6 - bottom templates of control sections).

V-belt transmission of the power unit of the airboat: 1 - bolt М10; 2 - washer; 3 - air propeller; 4.17 - M8 bolts; 5 - lock washer, 6.7 - bearings 204; 8 — cantilever axis; 9.10 - spacer bushings; 11 — bearing 205; 12 - distance washer; 13 - retaining ring; 14 - nut М8; 15 -bolt of the belt tensioning mechanism; 16 - driven pulley; 18 - adapter bushings, 19 - gearbox bracket (2 pcs.); 20 - V-belt (4 pcs.); 21 - driving pulley; 22 - rivet with a diameter of 5 (steel, 10 pcs.); 23 - spacer plate; 24 - "Whirlwind-30" engine.

Sub-frame (welded from rectangular pipes section 30x24x2.5; the ears of the engine mount and braces are welded in place).

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Aero boat is excellent vehicle for those who often like to go fishing and hunting, because by its characteristics it is several times superior to the cross-country ability of any SUV. Moreover, it can be operated both in summer and in winter period... True, the cost of aero boats sometimes starts from the mark of 300 thousand rubles and above. But you can go the other way, making such a tool yourself.

Homemade airboats are practically not inferior in quality to factory counterparts. Therefore, every year there are more and more of them in Russia. And today we will look at how to make an aero boat with our own hands.

Engine

The motor for our homemade product can be used from the usual Soviet times. But for lovers of high speed this will not seem enough. In this case, you should pay attention to the Japanese engines "Honda" and "Yamaha" with a capacity of 150 to 210 horsepower. Paired with a propeller, such a motor is capable of accelerating a boat up to 50 kilometers per hour on water and up to 90 on ice. and the thermostat is taken from passenger car type "Zhiguli". Driven and driving pulleys are made of duralumin steel.

Propellers, blades and propeller

In addition to the engine, you should also take care of the propeller of the airboat. We will make it from a solid timber... You can also go the other way, gluing several 10 mm plates.It is important that finished item did not contain unnecessary knots and burrs. As for the plates, when adjusting them, it is better to make a 1: 1 drawing, which will be a kind of template, and use these data to make the boat's propeller.

To make a high-quality aero boat with your own hands, do not be lazy and tinker with everything "by eye" - each detail is made according to its own template and drawing.

The propeller blades should also be free of burrs and other deformed areas. Such defects are removed with a small hatchet. Further, the wood is processed with a plane and a rasp. Cross cuts are made on a special slipway. They are needed to install the propeller blades.

How to make a do-it-yourself airboat next? For the stock of the building berth, we need ordinary steel. The main thing is that its diameter is equal to the hub hole of the mentioned part. Next, the rod is placed on the center of the slipboard. After that, a blank of the screw is put on it and pressed against the template with several blades. This blank should display pattern marks (where the blades touch the propeller).

These places should be processed with a plane and placed back in the slipway. The process of processing the blades must be repeated. Next, using the upper templates, the upper part of the screw is processed. As a result, both elements should touch up to the parting plane. All processed places are marked with a colored pencil or marker, after which zones are made between the control section. The correctness of the work performed is checked with a steel ruler - it is applied to the points of adjacent sections. Ideally, there should be minimal clearance between the ruler and the blades.

Now the screw needs to be balanced. This is done as follows. First, a steel roller is inserted into the center hole and the propeller is mounted on the balancing rulers. If suddenly one blade turns out to be lighter than the other, it is loaded with lead (thin strips of this metal are glued, previously poured into the mold). The finished rod is inserted into the hole in the blade - where the lead strips were applied. It is countersunk on both sides. The propeller is pasted over on both sides with fiberglass, sanded, balanced and painted (primed and enameled).

How to make a do-it-yourself aero boat? Drawings and assembly of the lower case

The body of the airboat consists of two parts - lower and upper. It is best to start with the first one. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, we prepare frames from 12-mm plywood sheets. The keel and stringers will be made of 2x2, 2x3 and 3x3 centimeters cross-sections. Frames are mounted to the floor on bars and bracing rails. The slats should be adjusted in place. They are attached to the Reiki for the front of the boat, they undergo a preliminary steaming procedure in boiling water, after which they are tied to the frame with wire. After drying, the wood is finally fixed with glue. Then the finished frame is leveled and filled with foam blocks. The latter are also planted on epoxy resin.

If necessary, the foam is putty with a mixture of glue and sawdust. The body itself is pasted over on both sides with a thin layer of fiberglass, after which it is sanded and painted. From the inside, unnecessary foam is cut off so that it is flush with the frames. Further, it is also pasted over with fiberglass.

Upper body

The upper part of the case is assembled in a slightly different way. Here we will not use plywood frames, but curved rails that will be attached to the finished bottom of the boat. Where the engine is located, the frame is fixed with gussets. The frame itself is mounted to a cross-member made of square steel pipe (4x4 centimeters) and is fixed with 2.2-centimeter pipes. Then everything is simple - foam is applied to the surface and pasted over with fiberglass. So we will finish the procedure of forming the upper part of the body of the homemade airboat. The doors can be made of plywood, and the windshield is best taken from any domestic car (for example, from the back door of a Moskvich).

How to make fishing homemade products? Control elements

A drum is installed on the steering wheel shaft, connected to a traverse on the rudder stock. Instead of an accelerator pedal, there will be a small lever that can be attached to any front of the boat's cabin.

Salon

The seats for passengers and the driver are made of wood planks and plywood. The frame is filled with foam rubber and covered with leather. You can go the other way - take ready-made seats from a foreign car or even a domestic car. At this stage, the question "how to make an aero boat with your own hands" can be considered closed. All other little things in the salon are arranged to your liking, the main thing here is to have imagination and enthusiasm.

So, we figured out how to make an aero boat with our own hands. Good luck!

Having rummaged on the Internet, having reviewed many photographs and drawings, I imagined it in my head and embodied it on paper. Here...



The search for materials for the construction did not cause any difficulties - it was our familiar foam.
First, we need a piece of ball foam (or whatever is more convenient). Length 450mm,
Width 162mm, Thickness 350mm. We give the shape we need with the help of a clerical knife. And then we glue it with foam.
Don't forget to install the servos.

Next, we cut out a sheet of the size we need and glue it on top.
And then we glue everything to the end.
While the glue dries, let's start collecting the floats. Cutting out the two different plates we need, cutting the tips at a certain angle, glue them together.
Well, later we glue the rest of the details. It should have turned out something similar to this.
As for the motor mount, I made it out of oak. And the place for mounting the engine is from thin plywood glued with plastic.
The diameter is about 45mm (this is approximately).
Next, we make a cylinder for the motor mount so that it sits tightly on it.
And we make three slots in it (one near the seam, and the other two at a distance of about 15mm on both sides. This is for the superstructure). There is only one more in the photo.
Here we come to the most difficult part. Maybe someone thought, looking at the general drawing, that it was easy, but I also thought so. And it was difficult in my opinion. First, we cut out the semblance of triangles and bend them.
We also cut out the other part and bend it too.
Then we glue them together. After the glue dries, we cut out the windows and doors.
Then you need to immediately glue the plastic film, which will serve as glass (I took it from the toy packaging). Cut out and glue the back of the superstructure.
Let's not forget about the height on which our future superstructure will be.
Now you can start assembling. We glue the remaining parts.
Now you need to make the steering wheel. We need an 11X5 aluminum plate 1mm thick. A bent spoke is inserted as an axis.

And the most important detail: in my opinion, this is the design and color of the model. Here I tried to make it simple and beautiful. But it was difficult because of the large number of bends and the shape of the glider.

Now it's time to install the electronics:
Engine