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LED Christmas tree with their own hands. Making Christmas tree toys from LED tapes How to make a Christmas tree on LEDs

Hello everyone, the new year has come, the holidays have already been celebrated, and the Christmas tree remained!) In this review, I would like to tell about the designer "Christmas tree" to be collected by himself. More details under the cut.

I decided to take on the review for a long time ago all the famous set - a Christmas tree designer to decorate my desktop. It was in early December, choosing her I thought that the parcel would still break through the New Year's challenge in the post office, but Ali's coupon fever did his black things. Absolutely all the parcels, regardless of the track number they, or without a track of the room, everyone fell into a common stream of rolled, so I took my package only after the New Year holidays. You still need to collect the constructor, do not wait until next year \u003d).
I drove a parcel by the usual China Post Registered Air Mail, i.e. China's ordinary mail with full tracking of both its territory and in Russia. It was not packed, it was not bad, all the contents of the seller wrapped in several layers of foam rubber, due to everything sucked.


The parcel was the national team, all that does not apply to the review will not show. A package with a set is a regular zip-package, with some kind of inner shopping mark, which will not say anything useful to us.


Features:
Model: CTR-30C (Colorful Light)
Operating voltage: DC4.5-5V
Food: 3HAA batteries (finger) or USB charging (not included)
Sizes: 60 x 136 x 60mm (length x height x Width)

Equipment:
1 Set of "Christmas Tree Led Flash Kit"

Content:
Unpacked the contents, I did not find any instructions. Running forward will say that the instruction is available for downloading on the product page, but I noticed it there only after everything has already collected)). In my hands I was not even a simple assembly scheme, I decided to collect starting from the easiest and smoothly moving to the complex one.
The following included:
- Three printed circuit boards
- Holder for batteries (or batteries) type aa
- 13 resistors
- Enable button, input for 5V
- 6 condensers
- 6 transistors
- 37 diodes
- Cable YUSB
- screws, bolts


Preparation for assembly
Before proceeding with the assembly, I would like to say a few words about the quality of printed circuit boards, it is just on summit. I did not expect such accuracy from the Chinese in their manufacture, no jambs of printing, there are no forms themselves. All tracks on the boards where they should be there.


To build a Christmas tree, we will need to prepare workplace, get and decompose required tools. Of course the soldering iron (in my case soldering Station), without him we will not collect anything; Sideboards, screwdriver and who has - a multimeter. It is necessary and a good light, there are many details and all of them are small to accidentally not to solder the neighboring tracks, you need to see well what and where we solder)).


Assembly
We begin manual work, start running from the simplest elements. I will tell my assembly of this designer from the face of a regular man in the man, without great knowledge and skills in electronics. In the additional package there are diodes with transistors and capacitors, get them.


We first begin to solder capacitors, because it is done easier. They are only six pieces, all with the same characteristics - 16V, 47UF (microfarad).


Bend the contacts of the capacitors at an angle of 90 degrees.


You need to solder polarity, the shaded side is always minus. You can also look at the "legs", the long leg is always plus. On the board itself there are also tips in the form of graphic designations of soldering places - C1, C2, C3; Plus side and shaded - minus. True, the values \u200b\u200bfor capacitors are marked as 22uf, although in the kit we have 47uf, I think the big role does not play it. Separate contacts to the board and bite the superflueline side. For convenience, you can beaten them into different directions so that the item does not fall until we dispensing it.


Additional photo


I had a very bad quality, refractory, I had to lift the temperature to 350g, and even fat - 1mm, for such work as we should do it better to use the most thin with a smaller melting point.

Having finished with condensers, we turn to the transistors if someone does not know that those with three legs)). Their 4 pieces and the same label - S9014 C331.


You need to solder the markings on the board itself, firstly all places for transistors are signed accordingly (9014), secondly there is a hint for the correct installation.


The legs from the transistor can be bent in different directions to facilitate the soldering process, after we are excessary.


Next, the transistor bend to the board so that nothing sticks out and it looked more presentable.

Additional photo

All transistors in place.


And now on the queue, it seems to me the most difficult thing - this is the installation of resistors. In no way they are not marked, which one of them is impossible to understand at once. Imagine the situation that we do not have in the farm multimeter, even the simplest, how to be? The answer is simple, each resistor has a color labeling (rings), which can be determined by its nominal.
After reviewing carefully the whole set, I highlighted their three types:
- brown, black, red, gold 1kom.
- Red, red, red, golden 2.2kom
- Brown, black, orange, golden 10kom


I received the values \u200b\u200bI checked and with the help of a multimeter and everything came out, you can go to solder. First of all, I install resistors with a par value of 10k, because only for them there is marking (R1, R3, R5 both at one and in the second board). Which side of them to solder the difference is not, the resistors do not have polarity.


Fro Multimeter






The resistors on the 10kom are installed on their place.


But here is a dilemma, for the remaining resistors, they are not signed plantingWhere to solder? .. I decided to install resistors with a face value in 1kom at the place R2, R4, R6, and on R7 - 2.2kom.


Let us turn to the LEDs, all of them externally of the same color, which facilitate our task and do not need to be selected by groups of colors.


The places are labeled as D1-D18. When installing, it is necessary to be attentive, the LEDs have polarity, the long leg is plus. Now we look at the fee, there are two tips at once, the first is a soldering place form, the advantage is always a square, the second tip is the key next to the minus (see the photo below).

The process of installing LEDs turned out to be very tedious, it was spent more than half an hour. And you need to be especially attentive. So that there is no confusion with polarity, I do not think that someone will then want to turn off and correct their mistakes.


All LEDs in place


Putting aside finished layouts Christmas trees, prepare the basis for its installation. It presents a small square of textolite with slots for two other boards with a tree shape.
In addition, on the basis, you need to have the power button and input 5B for power from YUSB charging.

After I installed the button and the entrance decided to check whether my assembly would work and then it happened incomprehensible, everything worked on the batteries, but there is no charging from yusb.


It turned out that I hit them not on the other side of the board, it was necessary to install everything on the one that had inscriptions, it can be seen in the photo below.


I will install a fee with our LEDs, for it, there are special slots at the base, as well as the spike site. Do not forget about the polarity, on all charges there are tips in the form graphic designation + and -.


The second half of the layout on the spot and our designer is almost assembled!


Additionally, to increase the stiffness of the design, we soldize the halves between themselves, there are special sites (marked with arrows).


Holder under batteries (batteries) We place under the bottom of the Christmas tree, fasten with two screws.




The wires from the holder are displayed on top of the board and put the tip (+ - red wire, black).


Designer Christmas tree assembled and ready for the first official inclusion! \u003d)


First inclusion
As we see the result, justifying all the expectations, all the LEDs burn and change the color, by the way everyone can shines red, green and blue alternately. It was about 3-3.5 about the whole process, of course, it would be possible to collect faster, but each stage had to be fixed in the photo, and this was an additional time spent.
The set is well suitable for those who are just learning to solder who wants to learn to be ashamed and patient!


Consumes nothing at all, the measurement showed the result from 0.019 to 0.02 amps.

On this, everyone with the Chinese New Year \u003d))

The goods are provided for writing a survey shop. The review is published in accordance with paragraph 18 of the site rules.

I plan to buy +12 Add to favourites I liked the review +19 +36

Hello everyone!!! Happy New Year, everyone!! Let all the bad remain in the old year, and everything will be good with us in the new year !! So in this article I want to tell how to make a few hours for a couple of hours. Here is such a small Christmas tree that can decorate your, such as workplace in the new year, or can stand somewhere at home

The basis of the device is the simplest multivibrator.

The oscillation frequency depends on the ratios and resistors in the base chains. A wide field for experiments.

What do we need?

1) LEDs. I used three colors green 6pcs, yellow 6pcs and red 7pcs.
2) resistors. 10Kom - 2pcs, and 1kom - equals the number of LEDs used.
3) a pair of transistors
4) heat shrinking diameter 2 and 4 mm
5) Copper wire covered with varnish, a thickness of about 0.8 or 0.7mm
6) something else ...

It is necessary to cut the wire on the segments about 10-15 cm long. The number of such segments should be equal to the number of LEDs multiplied by two. It is advisable to take half of the segments of 10 cm, the second half of 15 cm.
Resistors sold to LEDs, then all this solder to our segments from the wire, as in the figure.
Then the resistors on LEDs are "hiding" to the heat shrink.

After that, it is necessary to check again each LED with a resistor on working capacity, and clarify polarity. Then we twist together all the "pluses" of the LEDs, and all the "minuses" then the bundle of the "pluses" seems to be broken into two so that two approximately the same groups of LEDs that will be connected to our multivibrator. About so.

Multivibrator I made mounted mounting on two CT816 transistors, and unfortunately did not have time to photograph.
It remains to stuff all this in any suitable body, and voila !! Enjoy !!

On the eve of the new year I want to do something festive! And the most best decoration At home is a favorite tree.

For achievement homemade utya We need: a small piece of wallpaper (or some cardboard), green rain, scotch and smooth hands.

We chat our sheet of paper in the form of a cone and fix the scotch. Next, we fold it and smoothly cut down the bottom so that it can smoothly stand. Then take a little copper wire (0.3..0.5mm) and wrap our cone, fixing the wire scotch, it will give him elasticity. Cut it in height (so convenient to set the ranks of the LEDs). After the liner (they are on the projected scheme), the installation of LEDs fasten the incision to the familiar scotch. The board also places inside the Christmas tree. At the next stage, starting from the tops, wrap the cone with a green rain so that LEDs protrude a little. Well, the design is all ...

As for the scheme. Apply 7..12V (I think everyone has such blocks) to the stabilizer, for powering the controller and we make a common + (not stable) which is common to all LEDs. From this common wire in parallel in each tier, LEDs include, we do it in order to have no led group to pull two wires. At the outputs of the MK, it is very much appearing 0 or 1 that go to the base of transistors for their opening. Transistors are needed, since several LEDs are connected to each MK port, the controller may not pull all these currents. By the way, there can be current-limiting resistors between the MK ports and bases of transistors. The LEDs are connected by "minus" to the collectors (emitters on the ground), and there are current-plated resistors in front of their "plus". I think about the work of the scheme of questions should not be ...

Transistors: BC547 (or any analogues)

Clamping resistors: 200 Ohm ... 1kom
Capacitors: Any (these are power filters) from 0.1MKF

On the numbering scheme (1-6), these are our LED tiers starting from the bottom. 6th is our top, asterisk or something like that. Do not confuse, otherwise the image of the glow will disappear!

The appendix has a source in who wants can rewrite the program at its discretion.

List of radio elements

Designation A type Nominal number NoteScoreMy notebook
MK AVR 8-bit

ATmega8.

1 In notebook
Linear regulator

L78L05.

1 In notebook
Bipolar transistor

BC547.

12 In notebook
Resistor

10 com

1 In notebook
Resistor~ 900 Oh.38 In notebook
Capacitor0.1 MKF.2

In addition to the traditional Christmas tree, your home can decorate the miniature versions of the New Year's Beauty. So that they looked no worse and also pleased the eye, the LED garlands can be used for their manufacture.

To change the traditional big christmas tree, her miniature options made from the most different materials. The mother-in-law of the LED is most festive. There are several ways to make a LED Christmas tree with their own hands, there are several. The Christmas tree at the same time looks insensitive on each other and original.

LED Christmas tree on the wall

The easiest and easiest option of the manufacture of the LED Christmas tree does not require much effort. For the manufacture of such a Christmas tree you will need LED garland, stationery buttons and photos or small plastic toys. Decorating the Christmas tree will be a wall.

The buttons must be fixed in the area of \u200b\u200bthe tips of the fir, at the ends of its paws and in their base. Mark the middle of the LED garlands and secure it on the top button. Further skip both ends of the garland through the buttons depicting the Christmas tree. Such a Christmas tree you can decorate with light balls, toys or photos. Turn on the LED garland and admire the new Christmas tree.

Bottle LED Tree

The original Christmas tree with LEDs can be based on a blank bottle from under champagne. In addition to the bottle, you will need drill, drill, plasticine, glue, LED garland and parchment paper.

The bottle needs to be cleaned from the label and slip. Prepared bottle fasten on working surface With plasticine. At the bottom of the bottle, the location of the drilling is plasticine. Start drilling a hole. After a small recess is formed, a few drops of water drop into the hole. It is necessary that the drill is strongly heated. Drill the hole to the end. Remove all plasticine, rinse the bottle and wipe it dry.

Skip the garland through drilled hole And fill it with a bottle. In order for the product more like a Christmas tree, turn the white parchment paper with a cone, secure it with glue. Turn on the garland. Your Christmas tree is ready.

LED Floral Floral Mesh

This Christmas tree in appearance will resemble a Christmas tree from under the bottle of champagne, but will look aesthetic. For the manufacture of the Christmas tree, you will need a floral mesh, a dense cardboard, food film, scissors, PVA glue, brush, sewing needles, LED garland and decorations for the Christmas tree.

From the cardboard you need to twist the cone of the desired height. Floral grid Cut strips. In the capacitance, spread the PVA glue with a small amount of water. Cabon cone Cut the food film, cut off. Slices of floristic mesh in mo in glue solution, and apply them to the cone, fastening sewing needles. After the first layer of the grid gets up, lay out the second in the same way. Leave the cone until complete drying.

After that, remove the cone from the mesh from the cardboard structure, the film is also carefully removed. Put the LED garland inside the cone and decorate the whole Christmas tree toys.


ATTENTION, only today!

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This Instructable shows how to handle LEDs to make any luminous chain, tells about general rules Applications of LEDs on the example of the manufacture of glowing christmas lED tree. Knowing and using the principles set out here, you can easily repeat other structures using LEDs, such as

, Site section, where all homemade trees are presented and all the options from what you can make a Christmas tree.

Step 1. Details

This lED Christmas tree Made of 17 red, green and yellow LEDs - from the cheapest, which were available in the electronics store, (I do not know who is the manufacturer).
Their specification: (the same for all colors)
Direct voltage drop \u003d 2.0 V
Max continuous current \u003d 15 mA
If you can, try to choose the LEDs that have the same characteristics - it will facilitate the creation of a tree.

The power supply from the old printer was discovered on the street - no power supply direct current no more. In this case, I have a voltage of 30 V, with a current to 400 mA. Sufficient power for 300 LEDs, but it is unnecessary.

Step 2. Electrical Scheme Design

There are three possibilities when designing a LED tree scheme, depending on the number of LEDs, their direct voltage drop and supply voltage.

1. There will be less voltage on LEDs than supplies the power supply.
(That is, for example, if you have 12 in food, and you have 5 LEDs - each with a direct voltage of 1.8 V - then the fall on the LEDs will be only 9 V)
When connecting the LEDs connected sequentially, directly to the power source, it will flow too high, and at least one of the LEDs will be braid (I hope to break the chain and protect the rest).

In this case, you must enable the resistor to limit the current to a secure level. To calculate the overall resistance it is necessary:
R \u003d (VS - VF * N) / IS
VS: - supply voltage
VF: - Drop voltage at 1 LED.
N: - Number of LEDs
IS: - Safe current for LEDs.

My initial design was similar to the scheme A: R1 and R2 each at half a river (for symmetry), resistors are added to obtain general resistance.

2. The LEDs drops exactly the same voltage, which gives the power supply. Excellent! Resistors are not needed, simply connect all the indicators sequentially to the wires of the power terminals.
Be careful if you calculated incorrectly, LEDs burned.

3. The LEDs drops more than the supply voltage. Bad News - You cannot connect the connected LEDs. However, you can split the LEDs into parallel chains. If you look at the B scheme, you can see that there are two ways to pass the current from VCC (+) to GND (-). The path on the left chain has only 2 LEDs, so it needs a current-limiting resistor to keep the current current at a safe level (scenario 1). The path on the right chain has 15 LEDs, the voltage drop of each LED 2.0 V and a 30B power supply, it gives me it is the necessary voltage drop when you can do without a resistor (2 scenario).

if you have famous tension nutrition I. required amount LEDs with a well-known voltage drop on each, you can estimate which scenarios you can, and develop your LED tree!

Step 3. Design aesthetic

It's time for artistic skills!
When designing wood design, remember:
1. The electrical circuit must be defined (see the previous step), which will determine your further steps.
2. Try not to make the distance between adjacent LEDs more than twice the length of the LED outputs, or you will need to use an additional wire.
If you look at the design B, you can see that there are two ways for which the current flows: the conclusions on the lower green LEDs are connected to the power supply and the current goes around the entire outline of the tree. Another path is the two lowest green LEDs are connected via a resistor, and create a second parallel chain.

Step 4. Use the conductor!

This project does not use pCBAnd anyone who tried to solder the components together, knows how difficult it is! The tree represents an even more complex option, since the wires and components should be placed aesthetic - you want the wires to be straight, and the tree is symmetrical.
To overcome this, I used the conductor - print your location plan or draw it from hand, and glue to a piece of wood, at least 5 mm (1/4 inch) thick. If you have a smooth tree, like plywood or MDF, you can simply draw directly on it.
Find the drill of the same size as your LED (3 mm or 5 mm, as a rule), and drill small holes for each LED. Ideally, each LED should fit tightly in the hole, without movement.

Step 5. Soldering LEDs

At this stage, it is necessary to find out in which direction the current is flowing according to your tree (clockwise or counterclockwise). From this will depend on the location of the power contacts, and how do you want a tree oriented (face forward).
Understand this - otherwise, or the Christmas tree will not burn, or will be laid back in advance.

Put every LED into the conductor hole, making sure that they are oriented so that the positive output of the first LED will go to the power source (perhaps through the first resistor), and the negative output of each LED is connected to the positive output of the next LED.

Carefully bend the outputs of the LEDs towards the adjacent LEDs, and cut the surplus, so to leave only ~ 1 cm overlap. Align them carefully, and smear together.

A WARNING:
LEDs are sensitive to temperature - if you overheate the conclusions - they burn.
Skit make so far from the LEDs as soon as you can.
Try to melt the solder and put it on the connection, and do not heat the wires while the solder melts on them.
If you have not got a soldering in the first ~ 10 seconds, wait until the LEDs are cooled and try again. If you solder two long wires together, the risk is small, but if the LEDs are very close to each other (for example, yellow LEDs in my design), then you should be much more careful.

Step 6. Almost ready ...

(If you hurry to remove the LEDs, you deform your tree)
With the help of pliers, go around the conductor and thoroughly pull each of the LEDs, and then go to the next one, then you should return and pull out each little further until the tree is free.

After removing the tree from the conductor, it must be connected to the power source. If you have a good compact power supply, like me, then you can use it as a solid base, ... otherwise you may need a small wooden bar.

Insert the tree with your feet into the holes, or bend the legs at an angle of 90 degrees, and solder to the terminals of BP.

Now that the Christmas tree is firmly fixed, you can fix any deformations that have occurred, carefully flexing the design. Make sure the wires do not touch each other before you connect the power.

This Instructable does not show checks at each stage of construction, as it should be done to ensure that each LED is connected correctly that electrical circuit It will work that the voltage is powered by a sufficient value that the direct drop in the voltage of the LEDs corresponds to the specification, and that the LEDs did not overheat during the soldering.
Show due attention, (seven times there, once a revenue), and you will not have problems that something went wrong.

Step 7. S. wose Christmas Tree G.ovova!

Hooray! New Year lED Christmas treewhich does not occupy a bunch of space when not used, ready!