Do-it-yourself tin work. How to make pipes from galvanized sheet yourself. Processing the junction of the folds

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Cap - a cap made of galvanized sheet for a brick pillar.

Choose any height "h", or taking into account the dimensions of the finished column. It is sometimes useful to increase the landing dimensions "a" and "b" by 5 - 10 mm, depending on the quality of the masonry. The size "d" can be "estimated" with a tape measure directly on the pole, or count according to the formula below.

* Lay the pattern face up. Drill a hole Ø3.5 mm. Bend the stiffeners (15mm) down by almost 90°. Bend all dotted lines 90°. The deflection of the lines should be done in a sheet bender, at least in a home-made one from two corners (it will not be done for long). Then the bending lines will be straight, clear, without dents, and the product will eventually have an aesthetic appearance. If there is no bender, then bend the line "a" and "b" as usual; bend lines "A" and "B" on a piece of corner No. 50 - 63 fixed on the edge of the workbench with the shelf up. To bend plane A or B all at once, or almost all of it, use a bar (picket) 25x45 mm 30-40 cm long.

Bend the faces along the lines "d" to the correct rectangular shape cap, umbrella. To do this, have a narrow mandrel: a corner 50 with a cut shelf, or a metal strip 1.5-2 mm thick attached to it, more better canvas saws.

Check the fit of the upper (closing) stiffener to the back (rear) plane of the cap. Once again check that the product is not skewed; mark with a thin marker a reciprocal hole of 3.5 mm; punch, drill, and fix the assembly with a 3.2 mm rivet.

Bend the planes along the lines "A" and "B" inside the umbrella (into its place), holding it with your hands between a strip of metal (2 mm thick, 40-45 mm wide, ~ 30 cm long); and a bar (fence) 25x45 mm of suitable length. If necessary, seal this bend with a mallet. If necessary, slightly upset the top of the closing stiffener at the top of the cap.

The lower belt of the cap can be omitted from the pattern, but made separately. Bend a rectangle from a strip of appropriate length and width landing dimensions"a" and "b"; bend the sides in its upper part for rigidity and fastening, and put it inside the cap before the final bending of the planes along the lines "A" and "B". If necessary, secure with a 3.2 mm rivet.

When making caps of large sizes, divide the pattern into two halves, but not along the angular lines "d", but along the midpoints of opposite planes-faces. Connect the halves with two slatted "seams", placing the slats inside the umbrella, with the right side to the connection. A seam seam, especially on dyed material, can (and will) look messy. Do the lower belt for large caps separately.

Outside view of the cap small height- see drawing of square umbrella on page " gas extractor".

Simplified pole cap with brick belt:

For support legs and metal poles from profile pipes are used in the form of small caps. Plugs are made of thicker metal, usually in the shape of a low pyramid.

See the "Steel Roofing" page for making single and double connecting seams.

The node of the passage of the duct of the exhaust pipe in the roof of the roof.

The box is installed (put on) on a rectangular glass, all sides of which are 3 - 4 mm fewer sides boxes. The glass at the angle of the roof slope is riveted with a sheet of the same color as the color of the roof. It is convenient to draw a pattern of a box and an adjusting cutting glass on one tin sheet. With a small height of the structure, the ventilation (or protective, heat-insulating) duct can be connected directly to the roofing sheet, i.e. without an intermediate glass.

Mark a rectangular hole on the back (not the front) side of the cutting sheet. The dimensions of the sheet should be taken such that with a sufficient margin (at least 20 cm each) to cover the sections of the roof adjacent to the pipes, and cover the part of the sheet from the side of the ridge with the roof sheet from above.

Check the tightness of the glass on the sheet. Mark the reciprocal holes Ф3.5 mm for attaching the tailgate. Remove the glass, drill holes. Before the final installation of the glass on the sheet, apply sealant or any water-frost-resistant glue under the fastening sides. Fix with rivets 3.2 mm tailgate; then side and front.

A glass and a box (already with an umbrella) are alternately installed (put on) on the exhaust pipes for their heat and moisture insulation and to improve their appearance. From the side of the roof ridge in the lower part of the structure, additionally install a bumper corner in front of it to drain flowing water, especially if the flow pressure increases on a steep or long slope of the roof.

square umbrella and his pattern, pattern round umbrella for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm - on the page "Gas hood".

Umbrella, "chimney", weather vane.

Choose any height of the umbrella. If small sections are cut off in the end parts in their upper corner (along the "K" line), then the "chimney" will have two additional windows for extraction. From above, close these windows with a protruding ridge, the ends of which can be cut off figuratively. According to the level of the same line ("K"), you can make one rectangular window in the upper part of the entire umbrella, which will have to be protected from above by a second umbrella, but smaller. Wind vane - an umbrella with a weather vane, often a combination of two umbrellas is called a wind vane different size and forms; one of her simple options on this. The pattern of the main (large) part can be divided into two identical parts - along the line of its ridge.

Drill four holes Ø 3.5 mm in two end pieces.

Bend all stiffeners along lines "d" by almost 90°.

Bend the stiffeners 15 mm along lines "A" and "B" by 90 °.

Bend the umbrella along the line of the ridge to the angle of the planes.

Bend all lines *60, taking into account the slope of the umbrella planes.

It is desirable to do bending in a bending machine - even a home-made one from two corners will significantly improve the quality of bending lines and the appearance of the product.

Temporarily fasten the main part to flat surface, maintaining the "B" dimension.

Tightly attach the end piece to the main one. Mark reciprocal holes f 3.5 mm; drill. Fix the assembly with 3.2 mm rivets.

Racks should be made from strips of the same material by folding the strip (w. 105-110 mm, length about 40 cm) twice - i.e. in three layers of 35 mm, WITHOUT DISCHARGE along the fold lines to maintain rigidity.

Marking holes for attaching racks to an umbrella:

In size calculationy"3 cm to accept an umbrella for boxes or belts made of tin, 6 cm - for an umbrella for a brick pipe.

Tee for extraction.

Mark and cut a hole in the pattern of the main nozzle "D". The lower drawing shows (as an example) the exact marking of the entry hole d 140 mm to D 150 mm. On the page "Gas hood" there is a drawing of marking the inlet for a tee that combines a diameter of 120 mm with a pipe of 140 mm; and a branch with a diameter of 120 mm, as the most commonly used when arranging an individual gas heating in a private house or apartment.

Marking the inlet with a diameter of 140 mm into a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm:

Prepare the folds, "roll" the branch pipe "D" into the shape of a pipe, but do not connect the folded seam.

Temporarily install the inlet pipe "d" into the rolled up (but not sealed at the seam) pipe "D". Align the mutual position of the nozzles. Branch pipe "d" (inlet) is cut off and cut along the line of the inlet. Bend the bead 8 - 10 mm wide along the cut line on the branch pipe "d" as shown in the figure.
Install the inlet pipe into the tee from the inside of the "opened" through pipe "D", fasten the folds, check the tightness of the adjoining parts. Seal the seam seam, drill reciprocal holes Ø 3.5 mm - fix the assembly with rivets Ø 3.2 mm. If necessary, add any sealing material to the connection line from the inside of the tee: putty, paint, sealant.

When extracting from gas equipment, from the heating boiler or from water heater, the tightness of the connections should be given special attention.

Corners, ventilation outlets and gas ducts.

A simplified method for marking the mate line of branch links is presented, which, although approximate, but quite applicable in practice, gives a pattern. Reducing the number of retract links (angle) increases distortion and the need for adjustment (cutting) during assembly. Exact patterns of taps are built using descriptive geometry techniques.

Pattern and marking of the mating line of the links of the three-link branch by 90 degrees.

See the exact (in numbers) marking of the curved line for an outlet with a diameter of 120 mm on the "Gas hood" page. The pattern and marking of the line of pairing of links for a five-link bend of 90 degrees is on the page "Tee, bends, transitions". The patterns of the left side of the patterns are mirrored to the right side.

Connect the marking points into a smooth line, mirror the resulting pattern on the right.

Pattern and approximate marking of the interface line of two right angle links:

The pattern is given on the drawing right angle ninety degrees for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Feeder for rabbits.

Pattern for making a bunker-type feeder from galvanized sheet. The drawing shows the dimensions of the details of the feeder with a capacity of 3.5 liters of dry bulk feed.

The assembly with rivets can be replaced by resistance welding or spot soldering.

Drill all holes in the details of the first (trial) instance. Make cuts along the edges of the fold lines of the back and inner walls. Bend the fastening boards 15 mm by 90 degrees. Bend the 25 mm line of the rear wall inward by about 135 degrees, shape the feeder tray. Bend the inner and back walls to their working positions, using the side walls as a jig. Make sure the holes match. If necessary, correct their location on the details of the following instances. Connect with rivets 3.2mm inner wall with both sides. Invest in back wall, install rivets.

The feeder can be supplemented with a top cover and fastening elements to the cage.

Drainage funnel, gutter.

Dimensions, figured cut of the top and artistic elements of the water intake funnel - at the discretion of the performer. It is useful to increase the width of the strip for cutting each section of the gutter following the flow of water by 1 - 2 mm.

In connection with large quantity material, some drawings and drawings have been moved to other pages, in accordance with their subject matter.

Patterns of a confuser, a diffuser, a transition from a round section to a round section of a different diameter (bucket), from a rectangular section to a round section, to a rectangular section - are on the page "Drawings, schemes, drawings of the site".

How to make a bucket with your own hands from tin, galvanized iron or of stainless steel with straight walls.

We cut out the product scan from the material

h- height (set the specified value)
d– diameter (set the specified value)
l- circumference (find by calculation)

l \u003d πd \u003d 3.14 * 329 \u003d 1033(mm)
h = 310(mm)

CYLINDER MANUFACTURE

In the middle of the sweep, mark the holes for attaching the ear

1. On a rectangular sheet of galvanized sheet steel, on, or manually with the help of a mallet and a bar, we fold the edges of the sheet “along the height” in opposite directions. We bend the sheet into a cylinder.
2. We fasten the folded edges. We evenly press the resulting seam with a mallet or mallet along the entire length of the cylinder.
3. In order for the seam to remain inside the cylinder, it is necessary to carry out the following operation: turn the finished seam so that it is near the edge of the timber; hitting the seam with a mallet, we get outer surface cylinder without protruding seam.

REBELLING

The width of the fold depends on its purpose: obtaining a lock; wire rolling.

4. Set the cylinder relative to the bar to its original position. We tap with a hammer and bend the fold.
5. Tap with the pointed side of the hammer. We monitor the width of the fold - it should be the same.
6. Align the fold by tapping with the blunt side of the hammer.
7. We finally bend the bent fold at a right angle.

WIRE ROLLING

We put a circle around the perimeter of the flanging,

made of wire, the diameter of which must match outside diameter cylinder.

We round the circular edge and finally bring the seaming.

CONNECTING THE CYLINDER TO THE BOTTOM

8. Bend the edges of the circle and insert into the cylinder.
9. With light blows of the pointed part of the hammer, we bend the fold inside the circle.
10. With strong blows of the blunt part of the hammer, we tap the fold on the beam, while turning the cylinder.
11. We dump the fold on the outer plane of the cylinder.
12. If as a result of the work a convex bottom is obtained, it is necessary to level it.
13. On the very edge of the bottom, we hit with the blunt part of the hammer, around the entire perimeter of the circle. At the same time, the bottom will level out, the connection edges will receive a pronounced contour.

ATTACHING THE INTERMEDIATE HOOP

The bottom of the bucket can be attached to the intermediate hoop, and the intermediate hoop can be attached to the cylinder.

14. We fix the bottom of the bucket with a hoop.
15. We connect the hoop with the cylinder (bucket body).
16. We bend the fold at the hoop.
17. We dump the fold on the outer plane of the cylinder and thoroughly tap on the perimeter of the entire circle.

LUCK MANUFACTURE

Despite the many different tin blanks that are sold in building supermarkets, sometimes when installing gutters, ventilation or other similar engineering systems there is a need to install parts of a non-standard configuration or size. Therefore, many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a pipe out of tin with their own hands.

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is an ordinary sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequential rolling of the billet through the rollers of the rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result, the warehouse finished products steel sheets arrive, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note!
The material is very plastic, which allows you to process it at home.
On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is as strong as thicker steel.

Given that the price of tin is also low, it is often used to make many different parts of complex shape.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. Nevertheless, it will be useful to arm yourself with special tools and devices, a list of which is given in the table.

Tool	Purpose
Metal shears	Used to cut sheet metal into blanks right size. The maximum thickness of the material, as you know, is 0.7 mm, so it is enough to apply only a slight muscular effort.
Kiyanka	You can replace it with a rubber mallet, as well as a steel tool with rubber pads that do not leave dents on the tin during use.
Pliers	Used to make bends. Can be replaced with ticks.
Workbench	For marking and cutting, it is necessary to place a sheet of tin on a flat surface. Best to use carpenter's workbench, but you can also cut on the floor, cleared of large debris.
Calibrating elements	Their role is played by a thick-walled steel pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm (or wood round section) and a steel corner 75 mm wide. It is fixed on the edge of the workbench or clamped in a carpenter's vice. The pipe will be needed to make the longitudinal seam of the pipe.
Marker	Used for marking on sheet metal. It is a thin steel rod with a sharp end.
Measuring tool	This includes rulers, tape measures, squares and other similar devices.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

Training. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a round tube takes place.
Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

Complex instructions are not needed here, everything is very simple:

the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
a segment equal to the length of the future pipe is measured from the upper edge (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the upper edge of the sheet;
on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (moreover, 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
all marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice!
Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (blank width) using the well-known formula L \u003d π D, where π is 3.14, D is the diameter of the future part.

Step 2. Shaping

After receiving the workpiece, it is necessary to form a round profile of the future pipe.

Here the work is done like this:

The line for the folds is marked. Its width is 0.5 cm on one side and 1 cm on the other. The folds are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the tin sheet. To do this, you can use a steel corner and a mallet.

A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table with an offset to the desired length, then its edge is gently bent with the blows of a rubber hammer. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the lower plane of the corner.

Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To facilitate the procedure, you can use pliers.

Then, on a centimeter fold, another bend is made in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to pre-mark and for this bend.

Upon completion of work with folds, we proceed to work on the pipe itself. For this, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, you should use a mallet to give it a rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the bent edges meet.

Step 3. Docking

It remains only to combine the edges and fasten the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is bent down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe with a mallet.

Galvanized steel pipes are an integral part of the drainage system of any home. Acquisition finished gutters- It's quite costly. How you can make downpipes yourself and thereby significantly save money, is described in this article.

Purchase finished elements drainage system is quite expensive. So, for example, a gutter made of galvanized metal costs about 100 rubles / m, a drain funnel - 160 rubles / piece, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - 110 rubles / m, an elbow for a downpipe - 110 rubles / piece. If you calculate the cost of all the elements necessary to equip the gutter system for the whole house, you get a rather impressive amount. The natural question is how to save money? The answer is simple - do all the elements with your own hands.

Let's count. For the downpipe, galvanized iron is required. The price for a sheet of 2500x1250 mm is 600 rubles. To make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, a strip of metal 340 mm wide is needed - this is, in fact, the circumference of a circle with a diameter of 100 mm, plus bends. From one sheet comes 7 strips with this width. We get: 600 / 7 \u003d 85 rubles. for a pipe 1250 mm long, or 68 rubles / m - the cost of one meter of galvanized pipe. Save more than 60%! On other elements it will be even more.

If the above calculations convinced you of the need to learn self-manufacturing galvanized pipes and other elements from sheet metal So let's start learning. You need to start with the simplest - with pipes. How this is done will be discussed in this article.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we need the following tools and materials:

The mallet is wooden or rubber. Generally speaking, the quality of this tool will primarily depend on the quality finished product. The mallet should be heavy enough, but so that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that it is convenient for them to cut metal on large planes.
A metal corner with a length of at least 1 m, installed on the edge of the table-workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bended, so it must be stable and massive enough.
Steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - "gun". It will be used to assemble products. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
Ruler.
Scribe for metal. Any sharpened metal rod will do, up to a large nail.
Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

We make a pipe from galvanized iron with a diameter of 100 mm

1. We cut off a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe enters the next one according to the “father-mother” principle.

It has washed away immediately to mark the entire sheet and set aside segments on each side in turn - on the one hand, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If you are not planning to connect finished pipes with each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.

2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. For this on metal corner we bend the edges of the sheet with a mallet by 7 mm on both sides, 90 ° in different directions relative to each other.

3. We turn the workpiece over, with the bent corner up and with a mallet we achieve an angle of approximately 130-150 °.

4. We make one more bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. With a mallet we tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, tight and confident. At the same time, the mallet must necessarily lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.

5. As a result, you get a sheet with such bends along the edges:

6. We crimp the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.

7. We hook both bends for each other.

8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and beat with a mallet at the place of adhesion of the corners until they are completely flattened.

9. The pipe is ready.

10. Ideally, the pipe can be slightly flared on the wide side to facilitate mating with each other, and rings are rolled on both ends to ensure rigidity, however, the pipe is still serviceable in the resulting form. If no mistakes are made when marking, then it will easily dock with other elements, including factory-made ones.

In the end, it should be noted that drains are not the only application of such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their application everywhere, so the ability to make them with your own hands will serve you in good stead more than once in saving money.

Roofing iron - perhaps the cheapest way to arrange drainage system and protect the roof ridges.

Parts are so varied and can be so unique that they are often made in situ. What is needed for this, what skills and equipment, we will tell today.

How to bend metal

Roofing elements, as a rule, are hidden from the eyes of passers-by and no claims are made to them regarding the decorative part. This makes it possible manual production parts using templates, but you have to constantly adjust the product with a mallet.

This is not the best approach: the fold lines and the entire product as a whole are wavy, and work on one part can stretch for long time. For piece goods, this is quite tolerable, but if you have to drain the whole house, you should get at your disposal necessary equipment and fixtures.

Today sheet benders occupy their own segment in the market professional tool and available everywhere. Their price is quite high, but only on our own, proven equipment, you can make parts of excellent quality. Renting a bending machine is also an option, but a machine that changes hands will not have the necessary accuracy and reliability.

Galvanized and polymer coated: what are the differences

For most modern machines, it makes no difference what type of sheet metal it is bending. But there are some difficulties in working with metal coated with a polymer composition. With galvanization it is easier, because its protective layer is more resistant to abrasion and damage. Therefore, nothing prevents galvanized steel from bending with blows or crawling along a rusty template - the main thing is that there are no deep scratches.

Coating special paint has less mechanical strength, it is thinner and is relatively easy to peel off. Will not best solution bending polymer-rolled metal on old bending machines with defects in rolls, swivel beams or with loose hinges, and even more so, such metal should not be processed with a mallet. Just as you should not use any improvised devices that can damage the anticorrosive film.

The first simple product

To begin with, let's make the simplest roofing element - a skate. So that it subsequently lies evenly and tightly on the roof, first determine the angle of rotation by attaching a long thin rail to one of the slopes.

The width of the ridge shelves is from 15 to 30 cm, respectively, you will need a strip twice as wide with an allowance of 10 mm on each side. This edge can be uneven with a tolerance of 2-3 mm, so a straight cut is not needed. Mark out three longitudinal lines: the center of the ridge and both of its edges. Lay the strip with the center on the edge of the table and press it with a bar under two clamps along the marking line.

From below, under the protruding edge of the sheet, you need to put a flat board and bend the shelf up, observing the marked angle of rotation of ± 10º. Now the workpiece must be released and moved back so that the edge marking line falls exactly on the edge of the bar. We clamp the workpiece again and tighten the clamps well, and then we pass along the edge with a mallet, wrapping it perpendicularly upwards.

Edge processing is necessary to stiffen the profile of the ridge. For their manufacture, you can also use a rail-rule pressed through a bar: the wedge-shaped end of the bar will allow you to bend the edge more than 90º. After the preliminary bending of both edges, they must be laid on a wooden sleeper and beaten off with a mallet, flattening the bend. In many sheet benders, this operation is performed in one pass of the carriage of the roller bender.

When processing the edge by hand, go from one edge to the other in sequence, and then level out the visual irregularities with your hands. Already at this stage, you can think about partial mechanization and the creation of a primitive machine tool. For example, if the bending bar is made of metal or hard wood and fixed on two-axis hinges, the processing will go faster and more clearly.

Handmade: how to bend a gutter segment

For the manufacture of parts with a radius profile from tin, it is necessary to prepare a template in advance; it is not realistic to carry out such work “on the knee”.

Take an inch tube, weld two bars of reinforcement on its ends as drive handles. Make a cut along the seam of the tube with a grinder, then work the edges well with sandpaper, you can even glue a silicone hose loose in two.

Clamp a strip of roofing iron on the edge of the table, slide the end into the cut and rotate the tube 360º so that the “straight” tab in the center of the twist is parallel to the rest of the sheet.

You can form a tray with a rack pipe bender, or you can use a loose 200 mm pipe. We bend the even edge of the workpiece at 90º, press the side against the table with the wall of the pipe and straighten the iron with a mallet. We bring the twisted edge with our hands, bending it slightly inside the arc. We remove the workpiece from the template and press the rectangular fold.

Such an ebb can be made in segments of 1–1.5 meters, which are then easily joined at the installation site and fastened with a cutter. The presence of two stiffening ribs will not allow the tray to bend between the fasteners under the weight of ice, and the hidden groove will additionally strengthen the drain on hooks of a special shape.

How to roll a sheet into a tube

What if we aim to produce even more complex elements: receiving funnels and pipes? Of course, at first it is better to practice on segments, but otherwise these skills are quite comprehensible.

Products with a closed surface, such as pipes, tanks and funnels, are assembled on so-called seam joints. A fold, for simplicity, is a lock with which you can connect the edges quite firmly and even hermetically. The usual (single) fold is made as a fold on the edge with two folds. On different sides of the connection, the folds are directed in the opposite direction.

Usually, for downpipes, folds are made with a fold width of 4 to 10 mm. The edges of the strip are beaten off on a steel corner, then the sheet is folded, the folds are interlocked and tightly pressed with a hammer when the pipe is put on the mandrel.

There is only one difficulty in the manufacture of pipes - to ensure the possibility of their joining with each other. Therefore, before twisting the sheet, its short edge is straightened on a platform with a small threshold, so that one end of the pipe turns out to be thinned by a couple of millimeters. Also, pipes can be connected on folds, but they cannot be fastened in place in this way: a large segment of the drain is assembled at the bottom, and then assembled as an assembly.

Of course, bending equipment manufacturers have something to offer in this regard. For the manufacture of locks, there are folding carriages, and the metal is rolled into a tube on a longitudinal-roller bending machine. For thinning at the edge, beading machines or separate pairs of rolling rolls can also be used.

Funnel technology

If you understand that the seam connection is the essence of almost any tin product, you can give free rein to your imagination and collect complex products from several simpler ones. An example of this is all kinds of funnels, tees and corner bends.

The funnel consists of two short pieces of pipes of larger and smaller diameters. They are assembled like ordinary pipes, only their edges are flared outward by 8–12 mm. Subsequently, these bent sides are used for further manufacture of folds, or, if there are no complaints about tightness, hard edges are bent and fastened together with a cutter.

The riveting technique for different products can vary significantly, but in reality this is not as important as the correct drawing up of the pattern. All blanks should be cut only according to the template. For example, for the central part of the funnel - a truncated cone - the pattern is a segment of the ring, where the length of the inner arc is determined by the diameter of the drain, and the outer one - by the diameter of the receiving socket.

Unfortunately, the equipment for the production of such products has a very narrow specialization, and therefore is not available due to both the high price and low prevalence. However, all products made of tin and sheet metal, be it a bucket, a tank or an ordinary skate, can also be made by hand, machines only facilitate some operations.