Homemade belt drive. Do-it-yourself wood lathe on a belt drive We make an aluminum part

In design, a belt drive is often used to transfer torque from the drive (motor shaft) to the driven wheel or shaft. V makeshift designs it is very often difficult to find the required size of shafts and belts, since do-it-yourself designs rarely have standardized mounting holes and the distances between them can vary over a wide range.

You can quickly and efficiently make a belt drive yourself, using a small amount of tools and Supplies. And the quality often approaches factory samples. Required to work the following materials and tools*:

Wood or thick plastic to create a belt drive shaft.

Drill and drill bits for metal

Side cutters

Thick copper wire with a core diameter of 1.5mm or more

Hacksaw for metal

Insulating tape

Thin winding wire with a diameter of 0.125mm or fishing line

Rubber adhesive or sealant

Pliers

Base for accurate alignment of distances between parts

Marking tools (caliper, ruler, pencil, etc.)

* As the course of the article can be added Additional materials and tools.

First of all, you should decide on two important dimensions:

Shaft center distance a

Gear shaft diameter d

The first size determines the length of the belt, as well as the distance between the drive and the driven shaft, and the second size determines how many revolutions the driven shaft will turn if the drive shaft, for example, is twice as large in diameter. The second size can be determined either by special formulas or by conducting full-scale experiments. In my practice, I always use the same pulleys when driving a belt, and if I need to increase or decrease the speed of rotation of the driven shaft, I use a gear that is mounted on the same shaft with the driven pulley.

On the wooden board, the width of which is equal to the width of the belt, a circle is marked with a diameter of the future diameter of the pulley, then holes are marked on the circle at regular intervals. For example, on a small pulley, 12 holes in 30-degree increments will suffice. Drill holes the size of the wire. Next, take a hole saw and cut the pulley so that you cut half the holes. You will get some kind of gear. If you make plastic pulleys, then you should use several plates glued together, and then using the technology described above. The second pulley is made in the same way.
If it is of a different size, larger or smaller than the leading one, then it should be made first round billet pulley, and then apply a ready-made belt and mark the places of the recesses that can be made with a round file. Now let's start making the belt.
To do this, wrap both pulleys with electrical tape in about three to five layers. In this case, the tape should not be pulled too hard, pay attention that there are no folds or twisting of the electrical tape.
Then take the wire, bite off the necessary piece, remove the insulation. Bend a small piece of wire at a right angle and insert it into the hole between the electrical tape and the pulley.
bend lower part. Drop a little glue so that the piece of wire does not change its position. Turn two pulleys at the same time and continue to insert pieces of wire into the holes until the entire belt has completed a full turn.
Now wind the fishing line or winding wire turn to turn over the electrical tape with one to three layers. Coat the coils of wire liberally with rubber glue. Bend all wires according to the pattern stationery staples from a stapler.
The ends of the wire should tightly compress the electrical tape with turns of fishing line. After that, wind another layer of winding wire or fishing line.
Next, wind the electrical tape about a layer - two. Prepare a small disposable container. Wait for the glue to dry and lower the finished belt into a container and fill it with glue. Wait until the glue dries a little and pull out the belt. Remove any remaining adhesive from the inside and sides of the belt and allow the belt to dry completely for at least 8 hours. The belt is ready.

To improve the tensile characteristics of the belt and prevent the displacement of individual teeth of the belt, layers should be made, for example, from a strong thread or fabric strip instead of winding with wire or fishing line. The fabric will absorb the glue and become very durable. You can combine and experiment with the location of the wrapping material, use fiberglass and vacuum bonding. To do this, immerse the belt in a container, fill it with glue and pump out the air, in which case the glue will fall into the very depths of the belt. To make it as strong as possible and at the same time flexible, I recommend taking a used or torn timing belt from a car and carefully examine its structure, the location of reinforcing fibers, etc. on the cut.

Probably every master of his craft has a tool that is often needed in his work, for example, a file, but sometimes it happens that the handle is not there or does not suit him or is completely absent, and at this moment it is necessary to make such a handle in order to return the file to working capacity, for this, a wood lathe is ideal, the assembly of which I will discuss in this article. This machine is designed for processing wooden blanks, namely bodies of revolution, with its help you can make various handles, legs, figures for all kinds of homemade products.

I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video material, where I also spoke in detail about the assembly of the machine.

In order to make a lathe you will need:
* Electric drill
* Oak parquet
* aluminum profiles
* Screws
* Screwdriver
* Electric motor from sewing machine
* Bicycle camera
* Epoxy adhesive
* Drill
* Hacksaw
* Bearings
* Metal corner

That's all you need in order to assemble a do-it-yourself lathe, the materials, as for me, are very easily accessible, the most difficult thing for me was the search for an engine.

Let's start assembling the machine.

Step one.
In order to understand how the machine will look like and already imagine future dimensions, it is necessary to make a frame out of four parquet, which will be the bed - main part, it is better to start with it, since all other parts will be mounted on the frame. All four parquets must be pre-drilled, and then screws should be screwed into these holes, forming a rectangle.

I glued plywood to the bottom to collect the chips, so that at the end of the work it would be easy to release this chip compartment by turning the machine over. To ensure that the machine does not slip during operation, I screwed rubber feet.

Step two.
Since any lathe has a tailstock, in my case it will also be, therefore, in order to be able to fix it on the frame, you will need two aluminum corners that need to be adjusted in length and then drill four holes in each guide and screw with the help of screws to the parquet flooring on the frame. Before screwing the screws into the frame, it is necessary to drill holes with a drill 1-2 mm smaller than the screw, this is done so that cracks do not form.

Step three.
It's time to make the tailstock itself. We cut a piece from the parquet and make a groove for the guides. After that, you need to press in or glue two nuts along the edges of our future tailstock. The winglets will be screwed into these nuts and with the help of this the tailstock will be fixed in a fixed position. In order to prevent the nuts from pulling out when strongly tightened, they must be smeared on top with epoxy glue.

Step four.
While the epoxy glue is drying, we make mountings for bearings on the headstock. I also decided to make them from parquet, we drill holes for the bearings and press them into their rightful place, for reliability you can miss seat epoxy resin.

I made the mounts in the form of an isosceles trapezoid. The base on which the bearings will be held is also made of parquet, we drill four holes in it and fasten the previously made fasteners with bearings, having previously installed them strictly in the middle.

Step five.
Since in my machine I decided to use a belt drive, I need to make a pulley on the headstock and on the motor shaft itself, I took the ratio 1 to 2 to reduce the number of revolutions, but increase the torque. A pulley can be made with a drill by inserting a piece of wood into the drill chuck through a hairpin and turning it with a chisel or an ordinary chisel.

Then we wind the pulley onto the stud and install it in the bearings, through the washers. Also don't forget to grease the bearings.

Step six.
We install the headstock and the belt on the frame, for this we drill holes for the screws and tighten everything well.

After checking the reliability of the rear bearing, I decided that I needed to slightly strengthen the structure with a thin plank and epoxy.

Step seven.
Now you need to fix the engine, and it will be mounted on a special mount, which I screwed with a corner to the end of the bed, and also made a movable platform for the engine, which will allow you to adjust the belt tension, which will prevent it from slipping.

Step eight.
After the engine is installed, we make the headstock, which will hold the workpiece and transmit torque from the engine to it. The easiest way to do this is to install a square of parquet on the axis of the headstock and grind it with a chisel to round shape, then drill holes in three places and glue three pins sharpened under a cone onto the epoxy glue. After hardening, it can be fixed with a nut by placing a washer.

Step nine.
I have an engine from a sewing machine with a pedal that controls speed, which means that it is not designed for such loads, so I decided to install a fan on the motor shaft so that its windings do not overheat, I think such manipulations will prolong his life.

Also, there were some improvements, the belt on the pulley slipped while turning the round platform for the trident, so I glued a bicycle camera on both pulleys with Moment glue.

Step ten.
What kind of machine is this if there is no tailstock. Let's fix this. The tailstock is assembled from two parquet floors, two bearings and an axle that needs to be sharpened to a cone. We plant the axle in two bearings, after which we glue them on epoxy into the grooves on the parquets, which will be the tailstock mounts.

When the epoxy hardens, with the help of screws, we fasten the resulting structure to the movable part with the lambs, which I made earlier.

The belt drive in question is distinguished by a minimum of details: so it has only one do-it-yourself pulley and works without a rubber belt, instead of which a piece of a dog leash is fitted.

A do-it-yourself pulley is very different from the usual form (with sides): it does not have a recess for the belt, and moreover, its edges are rounded. In general, the pulley should be all slightly convex. Thanks to this shape, self-centering occurs flat belt, while sometimes it is enough that only one pulley has a convex shape. By the way, in engineering for flat belts, the pulleys are convex. You cannot hold a flat belt with a pulley with a side - it will either climb onto this side, or it will begin to jam at the side. Flanged pulleys are used for V-belts, toothed and round (in section) belts.

If you doubt that a convex pulley can hold a belt, you can do a simple experiment with a real model. Will be required simple details: rods, a straight cylinder, some part with a smoothly changing diameter, a wide elastic band and the base of the structure.

This model shows how, as the rubber band rotates, it moves along the wooden "pulley" from the narrowest part on the left to the largest diameter, where it remains. If the elastic is placed in the concave part, it will again quickly move to the place with the largest diameter.

The pulley is made from MDF. Instead of a second (small) pulley, a bolt is fitted. Due to the large diameter difference big pulley and a bolt replacing a small pulley, this gear has a large gear ratio. However, this contributes to greater slippage of the belt on the bolt, which, even without this, almost does not mesh with it. Therefore, for example, abrasive paper should be glued to the bolt. Of course, this will not last long, but over time it will be possible to pick up something else.

The belt, as mentioned above, is made from a piece of dog leash, which is made of nylon. To connect the two ends of the segment, some kind of piece of iron is heated by fire, then the ends of the segment are applied to it, they are melted and immediately pressed against each other.

Doing any homemade device on a belt drive, you often encounter the problem of a missing pulley desired diameter. Searching for it in the market or through acquaintances takes a lot of time, and it is not yet a fact that it will be found. And not everyone has a familiar turner. I, in most cases, solve this problem on my own.

What can you make a homemade pulley from?

Of course, plywood. If you don’t have a lathe, you have to choose from the material at hand. The tree in this matter is not a reliable assistant - it can easily split. But dense plywood, quite adequately copes with this task.

Depending on the size of the pulley, I select plywood optimum thickness. I cut out three circles from it, two of the same size, and the third is slightly smaller (by the thickness of the V-belt). Also, I immediately drill a hole in each of them - a hole - strictly, in the future they will be very useful.

I clean them as much as possible, first each separately. Moreover, on two identical circles, on the one hand I chamfer, at about 45 degrees. Stripping is easier and better - if you put a circle on a large nail.

I collect sanded plywood circles on a bolt with a wide washer placed on the head. The bolt itself, I try to choose such a diameter that it fits snugly into drilled hole. I collect circles in the sequence large - small - large. Large - chamfer inward.

I spread a smaller circle on both sides of the PVA, assemble the future pulley and tighten the bolt with a nut, with a wide washer underneath. And I leave the whole thing to dry well.

Although PVA glue perfectly holds the parts, for reliability they can be fastened together with self-tapping screws. Just screw them in, you need to pre-drilled thin holes.

Now the pulley needs to be slightly modified. If it is of small diameter, I insert it into a drill fixed on the table and first process it with a large file, remove the irregularities of the circle and smooth out the chamfers more. I finish processing sandpaper. If the pulley is large, I put it on the electric motor and carry out the processing directly on the spot.